The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  88th Edition
February 29, 2008

TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $Best Buy

• CHARLES KRUG 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley $22
• LOCKWOOD 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey $12 $Best Buy
• CA' DEL SOLO Vineyard by Bonny Doon 2006 Albariño, Monterey County $18 
• CHARLES KRUG 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley $22
• CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County $13
• FERRARI-CARANO 2006 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County $17
• DRY CREEK 2005 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County $14
• LOCKWOOD Vineyard 2004 Block 7 Pinot Noir, Monterey $20
• MacMURRAY RANCH 2004 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley $35
• KING ESTATE 2004 Signature Collection Pinot Noir, Oregon $26
• GALLO FAMILY 2004 Sonoma Reserve Pinot Noir, Sonoma County $15
• ROBERT CRAIG 2005 Affinity, Napa Valley Bordeaux-style blend $50
• ZD 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $50
• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyard 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma county $15
• MONTICELLO VINEYARDS 2006 Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Napa Valley $38
• DYNAMITE Vineyards 2005 North Coast Zinfandel $11$Best Buy
• KENWOOD VINEYARDS 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley $30
• CENTURY CELLARS by Beaulieu 2006 Chardonnay, California $6 $Best Buy
• R Collection, by Raymond 2006 Chardonnay, Monterey $13

WINERY OF THE MONTH: BONNY DOON Vineyards.  It is such a treat to know Randall Grahm.  I asked him for information about Bonny Doon for this Newsletter item.  I am pleased to repeat his words here for your pleasure. "At the peak of production, Bonny Doon was producing and distributing on the order of 450,000 cases annually, with more than thirty different products; it was a very complicated enterprise with many moving parts.  We are now producing approximately 35,000 cases annually with no plans for growth (except spiritually) and having a lot more fun.  Why such a vast sea-change?  There is a multiplicity of reasons for anyone doing anything.  Certainly the size at which we found ourselves was an extremely challenging one and I did not have the resources nor the stomach to compete with the very large fish that swim in that particular pond.  But far more significantly, I found that I was no longer deriving any real joy from the business.  It was too large, the wines were good, some very good, but lacking real distinction, uniqueness and above all, sense of place.  I was devoting more of my time to sales and marketing and little to winemaking and grape growing.   I wrote numerous articles and gave speeches about how precious and valuable was the notion of terroir, the expression of the uniqueness of an individual site, but there was little in my own work that reflected that ideal.  I had discovered and embraced biodynamic farming in our Soledad vineyard a few years back; I was extremely frustrated at the impossibility of bringing the sheer number of contract growers into the fold.  It had become urgently necessary for me to bring my beliefs and actions into congruity.  ¶   We made those structural changes, doon-sized the company, and radically cut our product line, but with the clearing came a possibility for the emergence of something new and extraordinary. What is compelling to me now is to use my rather eclectic experience to produce wines of originality and distinction, wines that matter, that make the world incrementally more interesting. To feel that I am aiming at anything less would personally be heartbreaking. But how is one to begin?   ¶   I have searched several years for a site to plant grapes in the central coast of California with the aim of establishing a truly distinctive and original vineyard.  It is not a full-time occupation of my waking hours, but a quest that bleeds over into my dreams on a fairly regular basis.  I have more or less concluded that I will need to locate this mysterious place in my dreams before it will substantially materialize in that particularly vivid shared dream that we term “reality.”  I have been so perilously close to “closing” on one property or another, but time and again there has suddenly and unexpectedly appeared a mild Aeolian gust that has wafted this or that property just out of reach. ¶  I have several important criteria that make the selection process particularly challenging.   I very much want to plant a vineyard that is truly sustainable, that is to say, not requiring external inputs. Therefore, the site has to be large enough to pasture animals – this will be a biodynamic farm, after all, but I confess that this prospect is giving rise to visions of Eddie Albert and Eva Gabor.   Most significantly, I want to farm the vineyard without irrigation, dry-farming it is called.  When you plant a vineyard with the intent of dry-farming it, you follow a rather different course, bringing it into production far more slowly than is typical, at least in the New World, and this more or less induces a nervousness among my finance people. ¶  For the longest time, I supposed myself to be an “agnostic” on the question of the possibility of finding terroir in the New World. I was not in any sense a member of the anti-terroirist brigade, quite the opposite.  For me, a wine that captured a sense of place was the only wine that was truly “necessary,” incrementally making the world slightly more interesting, beautiful and just more meaningful as far as creating a connection between ourselves and the natural world.  Yet there appeared to be a plethora of fatal impediments to the creation/discovery of a true terroir wine in the New World, and the appearance of something like a New World Great Growth was nothing less than a real miracle--on the order of American winemakers suddenly embracing a style of elegance and restraint and permanently parking their vinous SUVs on the side of the road.   ¶    This is in fact the central paradox or perhaps the existential dilemma facing anyone who is in some sense “serious” about making great or meaningful wine in the New World.   You can try to learn from what others have done successfully or unsuccessfully – which of course is the logical way to proceed. We do something very well, maybe diabolically well in the New World, but despite our vociferous protestations to the contrary, what we do is, I would gently suggest, not about terroir. Were one to be really serious about producing an authentic vin de terroir in these parts, one should be filled with a great and overpowering sense of existential Angst and there should be much gnashing of teeth and rending of garment.  The very cornerstone of the proposition of producing great, authentic and original wine is very tenuous, indeed; it is the construction of an elaborate edifice on extremely shifty sand, gravel or perhaps clay loam."  Randall Grahm 

SPLURGE WINE of the MONTH: Sbragia 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Cimarossa Vineyard $75

NEWS

PETER MONDAVI, Jr. Named California Ambassador:   Top wine auction has Peter Mondavi name and CHARLES KRUG  wine quality.   The Napa Valley vintner is 2008 Honorary California Wine Ambassador for the Portland Classic Wines Auction on March 1, 2008.  The Classic Wines Auction is among the top 10 charity auctions in the United States and benefits five non-profit organizations that serve children and families.  Last year's auction raised $2.8 million with 1,500 attendees.  CHARLES KRUG  Winery was Napa Valley's first and founded in 1861.  Peter is the third generation family member and continues the tradition of Cesare and Rosa Mondavi 60 years ago.  CHARLES KRUG produces fine wines from Napa Valley's most prized sub-appellations.  The Mondavi family is systematically replanting 850 prime acres organically with red varietals on root stock selected for the specific soils.  The historic winery, whose landmark buildings are currently undergoing extensive renovation, is located in St. Helena, CA.  For information please see www.charleskrug.com 

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BOLLA Wines Align with Pizza: The Official Pizza Wine Sponsors U.S. Pizza Team.   Bolla Wines will celebrate 125 years of Italian winemaking with a year-long focus on pizza and wine. The anniversary line-up includes a multi-city Pizza and Wine tour and a sponsorship of the U.S. Pizza Team who will perform their award-winning aerobatic feats with pizza dough at each tour stop.  “Bolla and pizza are a natural fit,” said Donald Freytag, Bolla global brand director. “They became mainstream in the U.S. when GI’s returned home from WWII, bringing with them a taste for Italian wine and pizza."  Bolla’s popularity continued to grow and by 1969 Bolla became the number one imported wine in the U.S. market. For a preview of the team in action and recipes, visit Bolla.com.
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SONOMA COUNTY VINTNERS and SONOMA VALLEY VINTNERS & GROWERS announced the debut of “Sonoma Wine Country Weekend,” a three-day wine, food, and auction extravaganza to be held Labor Day Weekend, August 29-31, 2008. The event combines the best of the Sonoma County Showcase of Wine & Food and the Sonoma Valley Harvest Wine Auction to offer the definitive Sonoma Wine Country experience.     The weekend highlights the diversity, quality and  best of   wine and food experiences.  MacMurray Ranch and Cline Cellars highlight the Sonoma Wine Country Weekend, supplemented by winery lunches and dinners.  Taste of Sonoma showcases more than 110 wineries and 60 chefs for samples of  wines and food, which includes wine seminars, chef demonstrations, vineyard experiences, and a top chef competition. The Sonoma Valley Harvest Wine Auction will raise funds for local charities that benefit students, children, farm workers and people in need.   For more information about Sonoma Wine Country Weekend, visit www.sonomawinecountryweekend.com or call 800.939.7666.

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WHITE ROCKET WINE COMPANY, launched in 2006, focuses on new brands that appeal especially to millennial-generation wine consumers, who comprise a large and ever-growing segment of the premium wine market.  Inspired by the free-spirited playfulness of wild horses, Napa Valley’s WHITE ROCKET has created "Horse Play Rollicking Red," an artful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.  Like the magnificent creatures it honors, Rollicking Red is a robust, yet graceful wine whose rich, smooth flavors run free and easy with a suggested California retail price is $12.  Winemaker Melissa Bates says, “We had great fun in the winery making Rollicking Red.  Wild horses don’t play by the rules, so we didn’t either and blended some Syrah  with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot."  In addition to Horse Play Rollicking Red, Napa based White Rocket Wine Company has introduced AutoMoto, a new entry in the super-premium “Adventure Brands” category.  The label, an image of a classic cruiser motoring toward a far horizon, intends to evoke the freedom and adventure of the open road.  California suggested retail is $12  per 750 ml bottle.   

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THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA'S 2008 Vintners Hall of Fame GALA DINNER: The CIA Vintners Hall of Fame will induct eight wine industry leaders:  Ernest & Julio Gallo (E&J Gallo Winery), Paul Draper (Ridge Vineyards), Miljenko “Mike” Grgich (Grgich Hills) and Sacramento wine merchant and forager supreme, Darrell Corti.   The gala fund-raising reception and dinner ceremony will be on March 7th, 2008 at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Greystone, in St. Helena, CA.    Additionally, the panel  voted in as “Pioneer,” the founders of three iconic wineries: John Daniel, (Inglenook); Louis P. Martini, (Louis M. Martini Winery); and Carl Heinrich Wente (Wente Vineyards). “Pioneer” recognizes those who have made a significant contribution to the California wine industry and who passed away prior to March 1988.  ¶  “We owe a huge ‘Thank you’ to the wine writers, critics and historians who selected this year’s inductees.  They made some very difficult decisions in an industry with so many outstanding leaders,” says Dr Lawrence Timothy Ryan, CIA President.  Tickets ($250), contact events@balzac.com or call 707-255-7667.  

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McWILLIAM MOST AWARDED AUSTRALIAN WINERY:  McWILLIAM'S WINES won 45 trophies and 789 medals on the 2007 Australian wine show circuit.  The family-owned winery has been making quality wines for six generations, while consistently receiving awards and accolades at wine competitions domestically and internationally.   "We're proud to acknowledge that our 130 years of winemaking have been recognized with this landmark win," said sixth-generation winemaker Scott McWilliam.  For information, www.mcwilliamwines.com 

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JOHN PARDUCCI celebrates his 90th birthday.  "The California wine industry was very different in 1932," Parducci says.   "Prohibition had decimated most wine companies and wineries, and Americans were more accustomed to drinking bathtub gin than fine wine."   The Parducci family survived by selling grapes to home winemakers until Prohibition was repealed in 1933. During prohibition, John learned how to make wine (200 gallons at a time, of course), and he traveled across the country to sell grapes. Those east coast grape buyers later became wine buyers for Parducci’s Mendocino County wines.   "I was the first traveling winemaker," Parducci says.  The Parducci family was also one of the first to plant varietal wine grapes in Mendocino County, the first to build a winery, and the first to label their wines with varietal names instead of generic. John’s grandson, Rich Parducci, now carries on the family legacy as winemaker at their McNab Ridge winery, which they purchased in 1999.  John was born in 1918 in Preston, just north of Cloverdale. He went to high school in Ukiah, and immediately went to work in the family winery upon graduation. The original winery and cellar, built by hand with gravel from the property, still stands.

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BONNY DOON Vineyards update: "Thanks for your interest in the goings-on here at Bonny Doon Vineyard.   Randall Grahm sold the Cardinal Zin and Big House brands in July 2006 to The Wine Group, and he's now focused on making biodynamic wines, and moving toward owning and creating an estate winery.  We've cut production 90% and totally refocused all our efforts on wine quality," Patricia Riley tells me.   Recently, my wine tasters enjoyed Randall's Ca' Del Solo Vineyard 2006 Albariño, Monterey County ($18).

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WINE INSTITUTE and International Partners Have New  Tool:  The International Wine Industry Greenhouse Gas Accounting Protocol, developed through a partnership between the Wine Institute of California, New Zealand Winegrowers, South Africa’s Integrated Production of Wine program, and the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia, will soon be released for use by the global wine industry.  With increased attention to climate change and greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions and offsets, the goal of the project partners is to provide a free, easy-to-use, wine industry specific, greenhouse gas (GHG) protocol and calculator that will measure the carbon footprints of winery and vineyard operations of all sizes. 
   Although the wine industry is considered a low producer of carbon emissions, GHG issues are becoming more significant to brands and image.   The GHG Protocol provides the accounting framework for nearly every GHG standard and program in existence.  Following this methodology, the group determined three “scopes” of emissions in the wine life cycle to be included in product footprint calculations.  The Wine Institute membership represents 85 percent of U.S. production and 95 percent of U.S. wine exports.  For more information visit: www.wineinstitute.org. 

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CALIFORNIA TRAVEL & TOURISM COMMISSION and WINE INSTITUTE Launch National Campaign: Building on California’s allure as America’s “Capital of Culinary Travel,” the California Wine Institute and the California Travel and Tourism Commission (CTTC) have entered a partnership to promote the state’s wine and cuisine offerings to the fast-growing travel segment of culinary connoisseurs.  The heart of the campaign focuses on  www.LandofWineandFood.com, a new Web site that will pull them virtually into California with “The Land of Wine and Food.”   Features include: an Interactive Wine Region Explorer, showing the best California wine regions for their favorite varietals as well as wine and food itineraries; Travel Tips Video Shorts from California wine and food pioneers; Blogs featuring wine and food luminaries like Pat Kuleto, Duskie Estes and Andrew Firestone of Curtis Winery; Local Californian’s Point of View Tips, with their favorite things to do and places to visit; and a chance to win exclusive culinary adventures in California. California is the nation’s top agricultural state with more than 350 different crops and 80,000 restaurants and eateries. The California Wine Institute, established in 1934, is the public policy advocacy group of over 1,100 California wineries and affiliated businesses: for information visit www.visitcalifornia.com or www.wineinstitute.org.

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TEXAS HILL COUNTRY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL tickets are for sale on the Festival website: www.texaswineandfood.org.   There are four days and 30 events featuring 100 restaurants and chefs and 60 wineries.  Enjoy!

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ALASKA HOTELIERS Have Green Lodging: As travelers show concern about sustainability initiatives, they learn that Alaska's Chena Hot Springs Resort (near Fairbanks) and Westmark Baranof Hotel (Juneau) have been practicing green techniques for two years.  Chena Hot Springs' geothermal power plant has been the primary source of energy since 2006 and also built a year-round greenhouse that provides fresh produce for its restaurant.  The Westmark Baranof uses a combination of fuel oil and vegetable cooking oil--collected from local businesses) for heat, and Pike's Waterfront Lodge (Fairbanks) installed solar panels and converted its greenhouse to a hydroponics-based food growing business.  For more information, please see www.travelalaska.com, www.chenahotsprings.com, www.pikeslodge.com/going-green.html,   www.hollandamerica.com (for Westmark Baranof)

ALASKA CHARTERS and ADVENTURES Has New Vessel that Offers Jet Boat Tours: The company's new high performance boat has a glass top, wrap-around windshield and stadium seating giving all passengers a view of glacier tours, wildlife and photography excursions.  BREAKAWAY ADVENTURES has a six passenger vessel.  Information: www.wrangell.com, www.breakawayadventures.com and www.alaskaupclose.com
ALASKA CRUISE NEWS: Princess Cruises added an eighth ship to its fleet in 2008.   AMERICAN SAFARI CRUISES will introduce a new 36-guest yacht sailing Alaska this summer. www.princess.com, www.silversea.com and www.amsafari.com.

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NAPA VALLEY VINTNERS (NVV), the non-profit trade association of  300 Napa Valley wineries, has launched Napa Green Certified Winery (NGCW), a program that reduces carbon footprints and institutes green business practices for winery production facilities in Napa County.  The successful 2007 pilot program,  which uses the credible Association of Bay Area Governments’ (ABAG) Green Winery checklist, is now open to all Napa County wineries.  It addresses water and energy conservation, pollution prevention, and solid waste reduction elements, etc. Wineries must maintain regulatory compliance to retain NGCW status and recertify every three years.

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KENDALL-JACKSON culinary and winemaking teams help create Small Plates, Perfect Wines, a new cookbook from Andrews McMeel Publishing, featuring mouthwatering recipes and wine pairing tips.  "Meze, tapas, antipasti, antojitos--no matter what you call them, small plates offer big flavor, and this is a style of dining and entertaining that has taken the country by storm," reports K-J Vice President George Rose.  (Please see Book Review below).   Small Plates, Perfect Wines is available ($16.95) at kj.com/book or by calling (800) 769-3649 and at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Center in Santa Rosa, the Kendall-Jackson Tasting Room in Healdsburg, WineAppreciation.com, Borders Book Stores, Amazon.com, and Barnes & Noble bookstores everywhere.

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ROBERT MONDAVI Winery Announces First Set of TASTE³ Speakers: Get ready for this year’s heady concoction of ideas, trends, passions, stories, solutions and connections: As always, the emphasis is on food, wine, and art, but as this first group of speakers demonstrates, TASTE³ attendees can expect a vibrant interdisciplinary exploration of far-ranging topics. TASTE³ takes place in Napa Valley July 17-19, 2008.  Registration is open and the conference sells out every year –see www.taste3.com to save your place at our table!

TASTE³ 2008 presenters include:

• Columbia University professor Dickson Despommier, whose visionary 30-story “Vertical Farming” project could feed 50,000 people from one New York City-size block.
• Master Chef Roland Henin, who has inspired and mentored some of the finest chefs in the world including Thomas Keller, Emeril Lagasse, and David Burke.
• Christine Carroll, founder of CulinaryCorps, on the power of food during catastrophes and the life-changing experience of food professionals working to rebuild New Orleans, LA.
• Ben Wallace, author of “The Billionaire’s Vinegar,” on the continuing twists and turns in the saga of the world’s most expensive bottle of wine.
• Christopher McDougall, freelance journalist and author, on the Tarahumara tribe’s astonishing health while violating most conventional notions of nutrition and exercise.
• Michael Rakowitz, an art professor at Northwestern University whose projects such as “Enemy Kitchen” use food to bring the war in Iraq to a human-scale, personal level.
• Darra Goldstein, editor-in-chief of Gastronomica, reports on her research in the Middle East and the efforts of local chefs and others who are using food to bring Israelis and Palestinians together.
• New Zealand filmmaker Mathurin Molgat, whose documentary “Song of the Kauri” follows a fierce Maori tribesman, his 38,000-year-old native Kauri trees, and Laurie Williams, the master guitar maker who “makes them sing.”
• Michigan State University professor Michael Kasavana, an expert in how information technology is changing the $4 billion-a-year vending industry.
• Master breadmaker and author Peter Reinhart will reveal his groundbreaking “Epoxy Method”—the secret technique behind his richly-flavored whole grain breads.
• Jennifer 8. Lee, author of The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, on the open source evolution of American Chinese food and why Chinese restaurants are like Linux.
• Journalist Novella Carpenter, who has been traveling the country exploring the nationwide phenomenon of urban farming.
• Rene Koster, director of the Restaurant of the Future in the Netherlands, a $4 million experimental lab where diners will be studied, measured and monitored for the next 10 years by a team of 20 scientists.

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WINE & FOOD FOUNDATION OF TEXAS is hosting an event with FOLIO Fine Wine Partners on March 20, 2008 from 6:30 to 9:00 pm at the Four Seasons Hotel in Austin, members $50 and guests $60.  For information (512) 327-7555 and www.winefoodfoundation.org  Special onsite guests include:  
ROB Mondavi, Oberon, Hangtime, I’M Wines (Napa, Sonoma & California)
MARCHESI Ferdinando Frescobaldi, Frescobaldi Estates, Attems & Tenuta dell’Ornellaia (Tuscany & Friuli)
ANTONIO Rallo, Donnafugata (Sicily)
GEOFF Whitman, Medusa/Spellbound Wines (California)
NICOLE Andrus, representing Folio’s Spanish portfolio: Vall Llach, Palacios Remondo, Cims de Porrera, Capafons-Osso, FILLABOA, Mas de l’Abunduncia, Comenge (Spanish Regions: Priorat, Montsant, Rias Bixas, Ribera del Duero & Rioja)
ALESSANDRO Vella, Villa Sandi (Veneto, Prosecco DOC)

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STAGS LEAP DISTRICT WINEGROWERS ASSOCIATION Vineyard to Vintner(V2V): Join the Association at its 8th Annual Vineyard to Vintner (V2V): On the Trail of World Class Cabernet on Saturday, April 26, 2008. The annual V2V event promises a day of discovery and adventure, complete with 14 private winery open houses and culminating in a vintner-hosted dinner at the historic Stags Leap Winery.   ¶
The day begins with Leap to Your Senses: A Sensory Intensive at Hartwell Vineyards to discover the aromas and flavors of Stags Leap District Cabernet.  Guests can experience 14 wineries located within the world-renowned appellation.  ¶   The 8th Annual V2V culminates with Under the Leap: Feast of Food and Wine at the historic, century-old Stags Leap Winery and Manor House. Join vintners for a preview tasting of the Appellation Collection.  The evening will then feature an intimate sit down dinner hosted by Stags Leap District winemakers and vintners.  ¶    Tickets for the seminar are $40.00, for the seminar and open house tickets are $250.00 and $290.00 per person for the entire day.  For tickets and information:   707.255.1720 or  www.stagsleapdistrict.com.   ¶   Stags Leap District Winegrowers Association is a non-profit organization of vintners dedicated to the betterment of its grapes and the recognition of the Stags Leap District as a pre-eminent Cabernet Sauvignon producer.   It is comprised of 15 wineries, in alphabetical order: Baldacci Family Vineyards, Chimney Rock Winery, Cliff Lede Vineyards, Clos Du Val, Griffin Vineyards, Hartwell Vineyards, Ilsley Vineyards, Pine Ridge Winery, Regusci Winery, Shafer Vineyards, Silverado Vineyards, Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Stags’ Leap Winery, Steltzner Vineyards, and Taylor Family Vineyards. A Visitor’s Guide is now available for those interested in exploring the appellation, Napa’s neighborhood for world class cabernet.

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments and suggested retail prices)

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LAKE SONOMA 2005 Saini Farms Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley Old Vines $22: "Dry Creek Valley has only a few Zinfandel vineyards that have been cultivated for decades to produce the world's finest Zinfandels.     Saini Farms is one of them.  Vines range from 40 to 75 years.    LAKE SONOMA 2005 Saini Farms Zinfandel captures the essence of these old vines.

• LAKE SONOMA 2005 Saini Farms Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley Old Vines $22: "Situated where soils are modestly fertile and very gravelly makes in combination with the climate a stress to the vines that concentrates fruit character in mature grapes.  The old vines have limited vigor so are cultivated without irrigation to yield small, balanced crops.  This wine has black fruit aromas and flavors with hints of mint, cinnamon, boysenberry, vanilla and integrated tannins that enhance the smooth palate.   Enjoy with a variety of meats and pastas."  

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CHARLES KRUG 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley ($22) from the Peter Mondavi Family Winery reflects the best qualities of this grape and its Napa Valley source.  Structured, juicy, many-noted, delicious--it is indicative of everything the newly refurbished and ongoing innovations are accomplishing.   "Warm, consistent summer weather was bracketed by an early spring bud break. Several late summer hot spells created growing conditions that allowed for one of the earliest harvest periods in almost a decade resulting in a harvest about two weeks ahead of schedule. A warm weather trend raised the sugar levels in the fruit, and the pace of harvest. Some varieties showed a lower yield than expected, but fruit quality looked very good.    Our Peter Mondavi Family Napa Valley Merlot expresses wild berry and blueberry aromas, with a touch of roasted pecans. An artful blend composes this balanced wine giving it a chewy texture and an intense yet lengthy finish.  Enjoy this wine with a dish like Rosemary Chicken with Roasted Garlic Gravy.  The varietal content is 91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Syrah, 1% Petit Verdot with production of  8,287 cases.  This wine was awarded Gold Medal - Best of Class (Appellation) - California State Fair - 'Rated 94 points by judges at the California State Fair and awarded the Best of Class for Napa Valley.', June 2007.

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ZD WINES continues to present its elegant offerings with the release of ZD 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50).  ZD WINES President Brett deLeuze and his family has been producing world class wine almost since the two former aerospace engineers (Norman deLeuze and Gino Zepponi, later killed in a car accident) launched their dream of making fine wines in 1969.    ZD's mantra of "(Z)ero (D)efects" is based on co-founder Norman deLeuze's history in aerospace, which set the tone for the focus on quality, consistency and style; developed and nurtured over the last three decades of winemaking. Before producing measurable quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon, ZD Wines experimented with small lots from many growing regions.  The quest ended in 1983 - four years after ZD moved to its home in Rutherford, Napa Valley.   Hillside winegrapes are significant to ZD's style of Cabernet.  The wine is opulent and rich, with just a hint of "Rutherford Dust" in its reserve blend.  Hand harvested, fully mature fruit, destemmed and crushed is fermented in open-top stainless steel tanks, punched down every eight hours for maximum extraction and minimal harsh tannins. Vineyard lots are separated for fermentation, then put into 50-60 gallon oak barrels for aging over a 24-month period.  The reserve blend spends an extra year in the barrel.   Throughout aging, the focus is on a consistent style of wine from all of the individual vineyards--each wine invariably shows subtle differences.   Ultimately, these differences complement one another as they are blended, adding layers of complexity to the final wine.  After blending, the wine goes back into the barrels where the individual aromatics and flavors are allowed to marry.  ZD Cabernet Sauvignon is consistently a rich, flavorful wine that is well balanced.  It demonstrates the full spectrum of varietal character.    HOW DOES ZD CABERNET SAUVIGNON AGE?   "Two to three years old, every attempt is made to make the Cabernets drinkable at release.   In its youth, the wine shows fruity aromas of blackberries, currants and cherries.  At three to seven years old,  the wine soften as time goes by and shows a bit more oak undertones.   A cedar aroma develops, and the flavor becomes more opulent.  The fruit is rich and bright with great depth.   At seven years and older, the wine is fully mature at this point and may have some sediment. The fruit and oak are completely integrated, creating rich complexity.  Further aging will only show subtle changes if stored in a cool, stable environment.

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R Collection 2006 Monterey Chardonnay $13.  RAYMOND Vineyards has been around in the Napa Valley since 1971, but its R Collection label was just launched in January 2006, replacing the Raymond Estates tier.  The R Collection brand encompasses three wines for now: Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, California Merlot and this racy Monterey Chardonnay.  The grapes come from Raymond’s 300-acre estate vineyard, a property devoted exclusively to Chardonnay, situated in a cool spot near Gonzales.  The grapes were harvested mostly at night to help preserve freshness.  The winemaking has helped capture that freshness, too.  The wine doesn’t undergo malolactic fermentation, and winemaker Kenn Vigoda uses a light touch with the oak.   The result is a Chardonnay that’s ultra-crisp, with flavors of green apple, pear and some tropical fruit overtones.   There’s just a kiss of oak on the palate alongside some zingy flavor.   Pair the R Collection Chardonnay with some fresh shellfish, grilled fish or perhaps sushi.

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CRANE LAKE,  according to Winemaker Larry Rocha, belongs to great-value wines that are "so it" for 2008 and one of the Bronco Wine Company products.

• CRANE LAKE 2007 Pinot Grigio, California ($5) has "aromas and flavors of pineapple,  pear, and citrus with a crisp finish."
• CRANE LAKE 2005 Sangiovese, California ($5) has "aromas and flavors of blackberry, plum, vanilla, raspberry and cherry with supple tannins and a soft finish."

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HORSE PLAY 2005 Rollicking Red, Central Coast and Sonoma $12: "This first Horse Play Rollicking Red blends Cabernet Sauvignon 44% Merlot 39% and Syrah 17%   grapes from Sonoma County and the Central Coast (Paso Robles and San Benito County).  The outstanding 2005 vintage fostered intense, concentrated grape flavors."  With a 20-year wine career in Sonoma and Napa Valley, Winemaker Melissa Bates utilized traditional and cutting-edge artisan winemaking techniques to polish robust flavors balanced by silky tannins.  Five months aging in French and American oak further refined this distinctive red blend. "We had great fun making this red.  Like the magnificent creatures it honors, Rollicking Red is a robust, yet graceful wine whose rich, smooth flavors run free and easy with aromas and flavors of cherries, currants, blackberries,  vanilla and toasty oak tones adding a savory note. On the mouthfilling palate, rich cherry, cassis and spice flavors are plush and balanced, leading to a long, fruitful finish. This is a red to savor with grilled and barbecued meats, hearty pastas and flavorful cheeses. We hope you enjoy drinking it as much as we did making it,” says Bates.

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KORBEL Brut Rosé, $14, has been released.  This delicious sparkler, produced by using the time-honored méthode champenoise, has been praised for its generous fruit and persistent bubbles.  It has a complex, off-dry finish and pairs nicely with strawberries and chocolate.   Enjoying this sparkler makes any day a special occasion.      

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RED ROCK WINERY 2006 Reserve Merlot, California $12, "a wine built to go with food," it is available only in restaurants.

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CENTURY CELLARS (from Beaulieu) wines "are made from vineyards selected by our winemaking team based on our more than 100 years of experience making California wines.  Every year we work with growers in many of our top viticultural areas to grow grapes and produce wines that capture the essence of each grape varietal--rich, and full of of the character that speaks to the fine wines of California.   That is the heritage and tradition of Century Cellars.  Our cellars were founded over one hundred years ago by a pioneering vintner who realized his American dream in the Napa Valley.  A century of dedication, trust and craftsmanship later, we bring you Century Cellars, wines that capture our heritage and tradition from California's premium vineyards."

• CENTURY CELLARS 2005 Merlot, California $6: ". . . jammy, strawberry and wild cherry, soft tannins, delicious with chops, lasagna and rich stews"
• CENTURY CELLARS 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $6: ". . . candy cherry, cola and cocoa, medium body, approachable tannins and nice acidity, enjoy with grilled steaks, hearty pasta and pizza
• CENTURY CELLARS 2006 Chardonnay, California $6: ". . . tropical, apple, citrus, oak influence, rich lingering flavors and delicious with creamy pasta and chicken dishes"

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ROBERT CRAIG 2005 Affinity, Napa Valley Bordeaux-style blend $50 (76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot) 5600 cases is a classic hillside Cabernet with pure dark fruit and broad, silky tannins that are beautifully integrated. This 2005 Affinity is a complex, supple and stylish wine that reinforces its standing as a premier Napa Valley Bordeaux-style blend.  It aged 20 months in French oak.

• ROBERT CRAIG 2005 Affinity, Napa Valley Bordeaux-style blend $50: "The wine has aromas and flavors of dark berries, black cheery, cassias and lavender notes with anise and sweet spices.  A balanced entry of dark fruit and fin-grained tannins that carry to the mid palate, enlivened by more black currant liqueur, violets and sweet spice box.  The finish has concentrated fruit flavors bolstered by juicy tannins to create a long lived-finish.  This is a multi-layered Cabernet that balances power with finesse.

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DIAGEO WINES includes a number of important properties and has recently released wines from several of them.  MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyards: High in the Mayacamas Mountains on the western side of Mt. Veeder, more than 1,000 feet above the Sonoma Valley, Moon Mountain Vineyard offers some of the most difficult winegrowing conditions in California.  The steep south-facing slopes, punctuated by volcanic rock outcroppings, consist of thin, well-drained soils derived from volcanic ash and lava.  Situated well above the fog line, the vineyard receives generous sunshine late into the afternoon.  This combination of frugal soils and warm, sunny microclimate stresses vines for rich rewards: small crops of superbly concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes.  Organic farming keeps the vines in balance and healthy, while enhancing the grapes' flavors.  Harvested at full maturity, the grapes receive meticulous care in the winery, including slow aging in small oak barrels in mountainside caves and careful blending to achieve mouth-filling flavors of black cherry and currant fruit, complemented by subtle spice and toast complexity.    DYNAMITE Vineyards:  With its name inspired by the method that workers used to create the original vineyard site on the rocky slopes of the Sonoma Valley, Dynamite Vineyards captured the public's imagination when its 1991 vintage was released. Offering full-flavored character, an approachable style and unbeatable value, the wines were soon winning awards and fans.   As consumer demand grew for these impressive wines, Dynamite Vineyards gradually expanded its vineyard sources to include grapes grown throughout the North Coast (Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake counties), primarily in mountain vineyards. Today, the Red Hills Lake County appellation is the major source of its Cabernet Sauvignon.   The colorful labels change each year to tell a story about the vintage while the wine maintains consistent quality and superb value.

• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyards 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County $11: "Bright and focused, this wine captures layers of citrus and tropical fruit that this grape variety achieves in Sonoma County vineyards, aromas of citrus, lychee and kiwi fruit mingle with hints of meadow grass and wildflowers.  Lively fruit flavors turn creamy, before culminating in a crisp finish.  Food friendly and versatile, pair with fresh salads, goat cheese and roasted red pepper bruschetta, cracked crab, pasta with pesto, and grilled chicken breasts, halibut or spicy prawns."
• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma $13: "The grapes fermented in combination of French oak and stainless steel.   Each component aged eight months and underwent partial malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity and add complexity.  This well-structured wine offers nectarine, citrus, and crisp apple flavors, with hints of nutmeg and oak, bright acidity and a long finish.  Enjoy it paired with seared sea scallops, grilled tuna and Brie cheese served with fresh fruit.
• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $15: "The rich, complex flavors reflect the diversity and synergy of grapes grown in Sonoma’s soils and climatic regions.  Aromas and flavors are dark cherry, cassis and smoky spices,” said Winemaker Carol Wilson. “The ripe dark fruit is supported by velvety tannins and culminates in an elegant finish that lingers with bittersweet chocolate and spice nuances.  Enjoy with a savory stew, filet of beef or lamb, grilled steaks or wild mushrooms and red peppers on a wood-fired pizza."
• DYNAMITE Vineyards 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County $15: "This wine offers a bright array of ruby grapefruit, melon, lemon/lime zest and passion fruit aromas. On the palate, juicy grapefruit, citrus and guava flavors are touched by a hint of anise. Refreshingly crisp, with a silky texture, chill and serve with appetizers, fresh oysters, chicken and seafood salads, pasta with scallops in a light cream sauce and mild goat cheeses such as Montrachet."
• DYNAMITE Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay, Mendocino $11: ". . .   aromas of green apple, white peach and pear with sweet spices. The apple, pear and citrus flavors are balanced by crisp acidity and silky texture. This fruit-focused Chardonnay has subtle oak notes and  pairs with a broad range of foods: lobster, rich seafoods, pasta with cream sauce, wild mushroom soup, grilled chicken or fish, and ripe, buttery cheeses like Camembert or Brie."
• DYNAMITE Vineyards 2004 Red Hills Cabernet Sauvignon $15: " The wine is round and full-flavored, fruit-driven and true to the varietal, made almost exclusively from mountain-grown fruit with smaller clusters and berries, and as such, is very concentrated and intense.  Lush aromas of  blackberry, currant and plum are complemented by notes of dark chocolate and espresso.   The full palate shows sweet fine-grained tannins from the mountain vineyards.  Barrel aging softened the tannins and integrated the wine’s aroma and flavor components.  Pair with grilled lamb, roasted beef tenderloin and full-flavored cheeses."
• DYNAMITE Vineyards 2005 North Coast Zinfandel $11: "This wine exhibits showy black raspberry, black cherry and ripe plum aromas, with hints of dark chocolate, licorice, crushed black pepper, and Asian spices adding to the flavors. The fruity, spicy finish is long and smooth."

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KENWOOD VINEYARDS 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley $30.  "We believe “Reserve” on the label should signify a special, limited-production wine.  Kenwood takes pride in making a Reserve worthy of the name; and this Pinot Noir carefully was created and selected to be the distinctive expression of this Reserve philosophy.   Intensely fruited and sublimely elegant, it is an extraordinary – and extraordinarily delicious – wine.   ¶   The Reserve Pinot Noir begins in a few select Russian River Valley vineyards that Kenwood Senior Winemaker Pat Henderson knows yield uncommonly concentrated and complex Pinot every vintage.  Each vineyard is harvested, crushed and fermented separately, and the young wine from these “reserve worthy” vineyards are racked into new French oak barrels to mature.  Eleven months in oak softens the wine and gives oak complexity in proportion to the bold fruit.  Winemaker Henderson samples every barrel and selects only the best ones--less than 2% of Kenwood’s Pinot Noir production--for Kenwood's Reserve.    It has aromas of raspberry and cherry accented by subtle nutmeg, cinnamon and soy nuances.  Generous raspberry and strawberry flavors gain complexity from hints of sweet oak and brown sugar, a substantial and  polished wine.  With production of just 1,200 cases, the 2006 Kenwood Vineyards Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is available in select national markets at a suggested retail of $30.

• KENWOOD VINEYARDS 2004 Jack London Vineyard Syrah, Sonoma Valley $25: "For nearly 30 vintages, Kenwood Vineyards Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Merlot have been admired for their bold, classic character. Now – after only three vintages – Jack London Vineyard Syrah has shown itself to be their equal and impressive by every measure – powerful, polished and delicious.   ¶   Syrah is very vigorous, with the potential to produce large crops of grapes, but the well-drained red volcanic soil of Jack London Vineyard keeps grape yields low.  Syrah also likes heat, but can raisin if it receives too much; Jack London Vineyard’s mountainside location, eastern exposure and afternoon breezes combine to temper temperatures enough to minimize grape moisture loss.  Lastly, to preserve aromatic character and acidity, the vineyard’s moderate afternoon temperatures and indirect sunlight provide an adequate 'window' for grapes to be harvested at peak maturity and optimal fruit.  ¶  Aromas and flavors of black cherry, raspberry and black fig, bay laurel accents, blueberry, French plum and cedar.  Showing impressive weight and – thanks to integrated soft tannins – elegance on the palate, this accessible Syrah stays smooth through the balanced, lingering finish.  Only 500 cases were produced, consequently, availability is limited to the Kenwood Tasting Room and select national markets, at a suggested retail of $25.

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CORLEY FAMILY AND MONTICELLO Vineyards have released three new lovely wines for your pleasure.  "We are very proud to be a family owned and managed winery.  Our father, Jay Corley, came to Napa Valley in 1969 seeking land to plant and grow an estate vineyard. Thirty-five plus years later, sons Kevin, Chris and Stephen manage the winery: Kevin is our Winegrower and President, Chris is our Winemaker, and Stephen is our Director of Wine Sales.  We are a small winery producing approximately 15,000 cases of wine annually designated MONTICELLO VINEYARDS, CORLEY RESERVE and CORLEY."

• MONTICELLO VINEYARDS 2006 Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Napa Valley $38: "Our 2006 Estate Grown Pinot Noir comes from grapes  we grow in Napa's Oak Knoll District.  This region provides a cool climate for our lush  pinot noir grapes with abundant rich fruit flavors. Typically, this wine has strong red-berry aromatics of raspberry and strawberry with hints of ginger, clove and vanilla which accent the fruit.  The tannins are supple, and frame the wine very well. It is a medium-to-full bodied wine that has a very nice balance of fruit and acidity. The berry flavors coat the palate and the finish resonates with berry and spice. Designed to be enjoyed young, while it is full of vim, vigor and vibrancy, this wine is tasting great upon release and will continue to develop and drink well."
• MONTICELLO VINEYARDS 2005 Jefferson Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $38: "Our Vintage 2005 Jefferson Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon displays aromatics of red berries, slightly spicy notes, hints of nutmeg and vanilla. The flavors follow with dark berries, herbs and spice, and hints of vanilla carry through to the palate. This wine is full-bodied, very nicely balanced and rich, yet has a nice thread of acidity to maintain balance and tension."
• CORLEY RESERVE 2006 Estate Grown Chardonnay, Oak Knoll District $40: "The Vintage 2005 CORLEY RESERVE Estate Grown Chardonnay offers aromatics of pears and figs, and toasted oak. There is a nice mineral tone and the influence of aging and stirring on the yeast lees also comes through in the aromatics. The mouthfeel is firmly balanced, carrying the fruit flavors and mineral tones across the palate. The toasty oak also gives the wine a very slightly firm mouthfeel, despite the low acidity, which works in the wines favor when being enjoyed with food.    
  Vineyard Location: Home Ranch Vineyard - Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley Our Chardonnay vineyard in the Oak Knoll district of Napa Valley is planted with four different clones of chardonnay (our Heirloom Clones and Dijon Clones #76, #95, #96, each to 420A rootstock. The Dijon clones produce chardonnay grapes with well balanced, rich, bright, Chardonnay fruit flavors and aromatics. Our Heirloom Clone layers exotic tropical aromatics and a bright acidity onto classic Chardonnay fruit characteristics."

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MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate has fourteen different varietals planted on 55 parcels of steep western hillsides and benchlands in a pocket on the western side of Dry Creek Valley.  MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER produces 100 percent estate grown and organically farmed fruit from its distinctive vineyard.  Among its many glowing awards and recognitions, the Decanter Magazine awarded the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon in 2007was especially well received.    MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate offers various programs for a beautiful visit to its stellar property.   Appointments may be made for all tours, tastings and programs at www.michelschlumberger.com/visitus or call (707)433-7427 

• MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate 2005 Syrah, Dry Creek Valley Estate $38: Winemaker Mike Brunson says he broke his tibula skateboarding just before harvest.   "This was my first harvest as winemaker, so I worked extra hard in the vineyard and cellar with the team rallying to assist me.  It was the best of the 20 harvests I've been through.  Our Syrah is a cellar favorite with elegant balance, floral qualities and a barrage of blackberries, cedar and dense mid-palate.  With six clones to choose from, we represent Syrah and our M-S estate well and we're getting to know the syrah blocks well.  This wine does not need crutches."
• MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate 2005 Chardonnay "La Brume" $32: "Chardonnay responds to the smallest input from the winemaking team.  The vintage and vineyard set the spectrum of aromas and weight of the wine, but the winemaker makes decisions that fill out the wine’s personality.  Coming from very ripe grapes at harvest, the fermented wine is quite full and refreshing.  There is a lively pertness on the palate.  It’s an unusual medium weight from very ripe California grapes with a  whiff of orange blossom and a hint of honeysuckle.   The palate has the purity of robust, ripe fruit and the cool, cleansing impression of minerality with rich French oak harmoniously coming together," says Winemaker Mike Brunson. 
• MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, DCV $38: "Michel-Schlumberger (M-S), sited on the western hillsides of Dry Creek Valley (DCV), has a well-earned reputation for its excellent Bordeaux varieties and Cabernet is The King," says Winemaker Fred Payne.  "We believe in blending for complexity and with respect for variety, heritage and sense of place.  Our Cabernet has classic claret balance, depth of fruit, and nuance--a wine of finesse.  The   2003 Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) shows blackberry, blueberry and our famous 'Slumberberry,' pomegranate,  cassis and a lush tannic structure for age worthy wine.  Enjoy with beef, other meats and good friend."
• MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate 2002 "Deux Terres" Cabernet Sauvignon, DCV $75: "Our special designate Cabernet is made from two rare heritage clones grown in our close-spaced, hillside vineyards--small berried and low yielding, concentrated and uniquely flavored that left France before the 20th century.  I know of no other examples of these quality vines grown on steep California hillsides and pruned to the double Guyot system used in Bordeaux.  This truly is a unique vineyard.   Big and flavorful, this wine expresses bright plum, cherry, varietal spice with complexity, rich berry fruit and whopping palate weight that stands high on the yummy scale.  Pair with beef, cheese and savory entrees," says Winemaker Fred Payne.
• MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate 2002 Merlot, DRC $30: "Michel-Schlumberger's  western DCV hillsides grows excellent Bordeaux varieties. With blending for complexity, and our red wines have harnessed the ripe, raw power and elegance.  Our Merlot consistently shows well-knit aromatics and richly structured flavors-unusual characteristics for what is known in California as a soft, "entry-level" wine."

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• RAYMOND Vineyard & Cellar 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $35: "The wine is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Merlot with rich aromas and flavors of blackberry, current, black cherry, chocolate and peppery spice, blueberry and a well-structured, complex, full-bodied wine highlighted by lush fruit and a long, smooth finish.  Pair with filet mignon, prime rib and lamb chops."
• RAYMOND Vineyard & Cellar 2006 Reserve Chardonnay,  Napa Valley $20: "Delicate aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, orange blossom, ripe pear, delicious apples, lemon and quince amid notes of ginger, toasted oak and vanilla with balanced acidity and a long smooth finish.  Pair with roast chicken, grilled salmon, lobster, prawns and creamy pasta."

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BOOK REVIEW Small Plates, Perfect Wines: KENDALL-JACKSON Executive Chef Justin Wangler and the culinary and winemaking teams help create Small Plates, Perfect Wines, a new cookbook from Andrews McMeel Publishing, featuring mouthwatering recipes and wine pairing tips.  "Meze, tapas, antipasti, antojitos--no matter what you call them, small plates offer big flavor, and this is a style of dining and entertaining that has taken the country by storm," reports K-J Vice President George Rose.  " Searching out those small dishes with big flavors, Wine Country cookbook author Lori Lyn Narlock presents more than 50 recipes by Kendall-Jackson Executive Chef Justin Wangler and the Culinary Team, with assistance from Lou Rex, Jackson Family Wines Director of Special Events. Wine tips are provided by Kendall-Jackson Winemaster Randy Ullom.  The book is divided into chapters on salads, vegetables, meat, seafood, and desserts, with each delicious recipe paired with one or two wines. The wine information is presented in a conversational fashion, and includes the basics of pairing wine with food.  Each recipe has been beautifully captured by photographer Dan Mills, with pages exquisitely produced by graphic designer Jennifer Barry. Small Plates, Perfect Wines is colorful, festive and informational, making it the perfect gift for wine and food lovers, and anyone who loves to entertain.   Small Plates, Perfect Wines is available ($16.95) at kj.com/book or by calling (800) 769-3649. It is also available at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Center in Santa Rosa, the Kendall-Jackson Tasting Room in Healdsburg, WineAppreciation.com, Borders Book Stores, Amazon.com, and Barnes & Noble bookstores everywhere.