The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 87th Edition
December 26, 2007

TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $Best Buy

WINERY OF THE MONTH: SEQUOIA GROVE Sequoia Grove, named for the giant trees that dominate its Rutherford estate, Napa Valley, was founded in 1980 and has recently enjoyed a large dose of reinvigoration.  The reputation was established early on for crafting Bordeaux-style wines, emphasizing finesse and balance.  Still a boutique winery today, Sequoia Grove produces a limited quantity of ultra-premium wines and specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon.  Claiming the first Napa Valley underground cellar,  the pioneering spirit has continued with cutting-edge equipment and winemaking processes under the leadership of Winemaker Mike Trujillo: "You should expect nothing but the greatest wines from Sequoia Grove," he says.  "We are dedicated to producing the best quality Cabernet Sauvignon from 100% Napa Valley fruit."  ¶  After decades of ownership by three Allen family generations, Michael Trujillo, who began his wine career in 1982 alongside owner Jim Allen, was made head of all winemaking operations in 2001.  “My winemaking strives for balance and varietal character.  I'm not in favor of the big, high-alcohol wine trend that influences much of the industry today.  I want richness and balance from start to finish."   ¶    Michael’s influence is most keen in his grower relationships, enabling Sequoia Grove to source Napa Valley's best fruit.  All purchased grapes are AAA quality from the finest grape growers in Napa Valley: Gary Morisoli, Andy Beckstoffer, Garvey Family, Traina, and others.  “I prize my relationships with growers,” he says.  “Many even replanted according to our specifications--a huge commitment.  We source only A+ Napa grapes.  And, we have our own superb grapes.   Each harvest, our best fruit comes from our 24-acre Estate Vineyard--the soul of Sequoia Grove,” says Trujillo. “We hand pick everything-- only perfectly ripe grapes.  The Estate Vineyard is used exclusively to make our flagship Sequoia Grove Reserve, a Bordeaux blend.  We focus on this vineyard to make our mark, giving grapes the crème-de-la-crème treatment from trellising, hangtime, to hand-harvesting and the wine twelve additional months in bottle before release.  Sequoia Grove has never put out an inferior product, but with even superior grapes and our upgraded facility, today we are staged to make better wines and we are doing just that,” says Michael, "as the 2002 vintage bears witness."  He has altered the blending, cut away some of the wines he felt were weaker and lowered production.  The wines also benefit from the influx of capital in the production facility; higher quality fermenters, processing equipment, oak barrels and a new assistant winemaker, Molly Hill.  Even the wine’s package was redesigned, to illustrate the brand’s reinvigoration.   Sequoia Grove is located on 24 acres in the heart of the Rutherford Bench, a prestigious Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon appellation.  For 30 years, Sequoia Grove has been recognized for its commitment to crafting award winning Bordeaux style wines that emphasize finesse and balance from the regions superlative fruit sources.  Today the boutique producer and specialist in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon remains true to varietal character and continues to be recognized for excellent quality and value.

SPLURGE WINE of the MONTH: SHAFER 2003 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon $200.  ShaferVineyards' hillsides offer clock-work climate consistency each year.  "Day after day of morning chill and overcast are followed by brilliant sunlight and midday heat," Doug Shafer reports.  "San Francisco Bay cool breezes channel into our secluded box canyon for lovely evening temperatures.  This daily seesaw of chill and heat develop flavors and acidity within our fruit as we control grapes to mature on the vine.  We brought in loads of dark, richly ripe fruit from selected vineyard blocks and then we narrowed choices even further for the Hillside Select.  This wine has a bounty of complex flavors."

BUBBLES for the Holidays: Celebrate life with champagnes and other sparkling wines. 

NEWS

RUTHERFORD APPELLATION WINERIES FIRST PASSPORT WEEKEND: Thirteen Rutherford wineries in Napa Valley will offer special tastings December 1 and 2, 2007 with “Kickin’ up the Dust” with special pourings and entertainment  for the two-day price of $50. Each winery is organizing unique offerings, such as Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s at Beaulieu Vineyard; access to Alpha Omega’s state-of-the-art tank room to taste tank wines alongside their signature wines; artisan cheese and antipasto with handcrafted wine at Honig Vineyard & Winery and more.   For passports and a list of participating wineries please visit www.rutherford-appellation-wineries.com.

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BROWN.MILLER COMMUNICATIONS celebrates 20 years of business.  "Over the last 20 years, things have changed a bit.  Byte by byte, the tools we use evolve . . .  and shrink!  Through it all, we've relied on one constant . . . the daring, inspired and driven power of the human mind."

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PENROSE ROOM, at  the historic BROADMOOR, is Colorado's first dining establishment to achieve one of the restaurant industry's top distinctions;the AAA Five-Diamond Award.  The PENROSE joins an exclusive club of 60 restaurants chosen from more than 60,000 AAA-rated restaurants and hotels across the USA, Canada, Mexico and the Caribbean.   "The Diamond Award is the top AAA distinction earned in the restaurant industry," says Colorado AAA President and CEO Tony DeNovellis, "and we congratulate Penrose Room for being the first Colorado restaurant to earn this award."  

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THE SORTING TABLE represents a hand-selected portfolio of world-famous, terroir-driven estates.  Each of its wineries owns or manages its vineyards, controls every step of the winemaking process and is considered an archetype or benchmark for its region.  The Sorting Table includes Hyde de Villaine (HdV) wines from Rick Hyde and Aubert de Villaine (Domaine de la Romanee Conti).   HdV is a family venture between Hyde Vineyards of Napa Valley and Aubert & Pamela de Villaine of Burgundy, France.  HdV is bottled under the coat of arms of the historic de la Guerra family from which Pamela de Villaine and the Hydes descend.  The De la Guerra Family is one of the oldest winemaking families in California and traces its winemaking history back to a gold medal received at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Fair.  They brought their wines to Austin, Texas, in November. 

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KORBEL Champagne Cellars, established in 1882, marks its 125th anniversary in 2007.  Today it produces more than one million cases of méthode champenoise California sparkling wine annually.  It has been a part of America's greatest celebrations, including the exclusive sparkling wine of the past five presidential inaugurations.  From activist to cigar-maker, from exotic lumber to Pinot Noir, Francis Korbel’s pioneer spirit drove him to capture the American dream and create an industry that has become an international legend. The Korbel story spans three centuries, two continents and two families with vision, dedication and determination.  Although generations apart, the Korbel and Heck families created and preserved a singular tradition of champagne-making excellence that has endured and continues to delight sparkling wine lovers worldwide.   Korbel has been a supporter and licensee of the 1996 Olympic Games, an Official Supporter of the 2000, 2002 and 2004 U.S. Olympic Teams and the 2002 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, a supporter of Team Dennis Conner for the 1995 America's Cup and the first global sponsor of Times Square 2000.  Korbel is the number one selling premium méthode champenoise American wine.

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KENDALL-JACKSON Celebrates 25th Year: "From day one we have been a family-owned and family-run business," Jess Jackson says.   "It is a distinction that is rapidly becoming a rarity in the wine industry.   We believe in hard work, integrity, an uncompromising desire for quality and the long-term stewardship of the land.  It takes a strong-willed family to live up to these principles.   Our high road approach to quality requires us to grow world-class grapes and produce critically acclaimed award-winning wines."  ¶   Jess Jackson was born in 1930, reared in San Francisco and graduated from UC Berkeley's Boalt Law School.   In 1974, Jess and his family bought an 80 acre pear and walnut orchard in Lakeport, California, and converted it to a vineyard.  Jess began selling his grapes to local wineries.  In 1982, he produced his first bottle of Kendall-Jackson wine.  Jess and his family still run the day-to-day business of the winery.  "At our founding, we wanted to make extraordinary wine from California's best vineyards.  In 1983 our Chardonnay won the first Platinum Award ever presented by the American Wine Competition.   For over 15 years running, we have been America's favorite wine.  We grow grapes on 12,000 acres of California Coastal vineyards, and continue to evolve practices that increase the quality of our wines.  My family will always be committed to creating the very best wine we can.   We hope you enjoy our wine as much as we enjoy making it." 

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CALIFORNIA VINTNERS PRAISE HIGH QUALITY 2007 GRAPE HARVEST: Early Harvest, Extended Season, Lighter than Normal Crop  California’s 2007 wine grape harvest began early, stalled mid-way due to cool weather, and finished in late October to vintner accolades.  A mild winter with below normal rainfall, coupled with a dry spring, led to early bud break.  Although cluster counts were high in most locations, a sparse berry set in spring resulted in loose grape bunches.  Additionally, berries were small, creating a greater skin to juice ratio, enhancing quality.  The California Department of Food and Agriculture’s latest wine grape crop forecast in October was 3.2 million tons, up less than one percent from 2006. 

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EISCH "Breathable Glass" now on market:  Wine industry professionals approve new stemware at CIA event.  Eisch Glaskultur, German glass maker, hosted a special event at the Culinary Institute of America for wine industry professionals from more than 50 Napa Valley wineries.  They sampled Eisch’s newest and most innovative product, the “Breathable Glass” fine wine glass. ¶   “Our ‘Breathable Glass’ products have revolutionized enjoying a glass of fine wine,” said Alan Zalayet, Eisch Glaskultur Partner. “We wanted industry professionals to experience how wine in our ‘Breathable Glass’ will show signs of aeration within two to four minutes equivalent to a decanted wine that has aerated one to two hours.”   Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Ronn Wiegand said,"I was skeptical at first of the claims that [Eisch Breathable glasses] softened wine and enhanced their characteristics within just a few minutes,” said Wiegand. “But I found that they actually do.  This is a real contribution to the enjoyment of wine.”    ¶   Event attendees agreed.  For information: www.eisch.de or info@eisch.de  

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CLOS DU BOIS has released two tiers of its Merlot wines, CLASSICS and the APPELLATION RESERVE SERIES, reporting that Merlot "is the most popular red wine in the U.S. today," according to Impact Databank.  "Having endured movie slurs and market slumps, Merlot's faithful fans remain devoted to this well-made CLOS DU BOIS wine."

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NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments; prices vary from place to place; suggested retail price)
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Penfolds KOONUNGA HILL blended the overly abundant good fruit produced in Australia's Barossa Valley in 1976 to create a single  wine made of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz to sell at a humble price.  Thus began the tradition of Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet.  It was an instant hit with wine drinkers seeking a high quality everyday quaffer and the rest is history.    Look for reviews next Newsletter.

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WILD OAK: "St. Francis’ heritage in Sonoma County dates back to its roots as a premium grape grower in the early 1970s.  Over the last 35 years, we have carefully studied the county terroir and developed an intimate relationship with its’ multiple microclimates, soil types, and ripening patterns – the elements that make Sonoma viticulture unique.  The ongoing evolution of this education and knowledge is the foundation for the next chapter in St. Francis’ story: Wild Oak.   With the finest fruit from our acclaimed, fully mature vineyards, and the best AVA grower fruit,  we've encapsulated years of experience to create a living legend.  We pay tribute to the longevity and tradition of winemaking in Sonoma County.  For centuries, the Heritage Oaks of Sonoma County have dotted our vine-clad hills and river terraces as historical monuments of a superb winegrowing region.  Our Wild Oak wines represent a tapestry of  Sonoma vineyard sites that embody the heritage in these majestic trees."   Winemaker Tom Mackey also makes ST. FRANCIS RED, a proprietary blend from Sonoma Valley that has a happy price of $13.

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BEAM WINE ESTATES has several new releases.

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KENWOOD VINEYARDS has released three Zinfandels for your holiday celebrations.  Zinfandel arrived in the United States in the 1820s, having originated in Croatia, to become an American favorite.   By the 1870s, wineries in Sonoma county were advertising Zinfandel, making it perhaps the first California wine to be offered by grape variety.  Sonoma is now home to 5,200 acres of zinfandel grapes, and KENWOOD began producing the wine in 1970.  KENWOOD VINEYARDS 2006 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley is also now in the market.  KENWOOD sources pinot noir grapes from Sonoma county's Russian River Valley, where cool temperatures and a very long growing season enable grapes to develop generous character, elegant structure and supple texture at maturity.  Grapes ferment with a small but significant percentage of whole berries to enhance fresh fruit aromas and flavors.

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FAMILLE LIGNÈRES 2003 La Baronne Rouge, Estate, Corbières, France $11: Primarily Carignan with Grenache and Mourvedre hand cultivated and picked fruit, the wine was made in stainless steel and concrete tanks, fermentation and maceration 25 days.  "A delightful blend, Cotes de Rhone in style, with delightful aromas of fresh, warm strawberry pie and cinnamon.  A medley of berries and Bing cherries dominate the flavors."  Château La Baronne is the home of the Lignères family and represents the heart of the winemaking tradition that generations have cultivated.

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R.H. PHILLIPS NIGHT HARVEST six  wines come mostly from the Dunnigan Hills' 1,800 acres of vineyards--all harvested at night.  R.H. PHILLIPS is the only winery in the Dunnigan Hills AVA, which is located 30 miles east of Napa Valley on the eastern side of the Coast Range Mountains. 

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HYDE de VILLAINE (HdV) produces a number of wines: 

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GALLO Family Vineyards has announced that its winemakers have released the following premium wines.  They hope customers find that these wines represent the values that GALLO does.

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SHAFER VINEYARDS releases new wines with reports on solar power, Merlot's new chapter and a renovation that offers visitors a new experience.  In 2004, Shafer Vineyards became the first winery in the region to have 100 percent solar power for the cellar and winery.  Doug says it is time to turn up the power even further.  Work has begun on a new 100-kW array to completely power the winery's irrigation and water reclamation system.   Rebates from California's program make the project viable and Shafer sees it as an investment and a way of doing their part to reduce greenhouse gasses.   Fifty percent of toxic pollution in the U.S. is created by coal and oil-powered electrical generation plants, so the Shafer project is thoughtful.  The Shafers have also finished renovating the winery, hospitality and landscaping areas.  Doug says the renovation gives them the opportunity to offer visitors different kinds of tastings.    

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KENDALL-JACKSON has released two Jackson Estates Grown Vintner's   Reserve wines.  KENDALL-JACKSON was named "Winery of the Year" at the San Francisco International Wine Competition in July 2007.      

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NAPA RIDGE Winery, COASTAL RIDGE Winery and ForestVille are part of the BRONCO Wine Company, owned by the Franzia family (no connection to Franzia boxed wine).  They've released two Cabernet Sauvignons for special occasions and casual celebrations.

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JOSEPH PHELPS VINEYARDS has released the 2007 fall wines.   Winemaker Craig Williiams shares his impressions.

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GNARLY HEAD was named "American Winery of the Year 2007" by Wine Enthusiast.  GNARLY HEAD has a premium wine focus on Zinfandel and its Old Vine Zin has become the fastest growing Zinfandel in the country.  Now Gnarly Head has launched its Cabernet Sauvignon.  Unlike modern rows of trellised vines, these old Zinfandel vines were grown as free standing, head-trained vines and resemble wild bushes with twisted trunks and branches that spread out in all directions sprouting leaves like unruly umbrellas--truly gnarly heads.  The grapes from these old vines create rich, concentrated fruit flavor.

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VERAMONTE has a couple of new releases.  Owner Agustin Huneeus tells me that he believes "the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc is our best yet.   It's estate grown in Casablanca Valley, a region fast becoming one of the world's privileged sauvignon blanc appellations."  I've appreciated Chile's quality Sauvignon Blanc since I first visited the country in 1988--then one of Chile's best wines.    Vermonte has 1100 planted Casablanca acres surrounded by 12,000 acres of unplanted greenbelt--a region chosen by Huneeus for the microclimates and soils--and utilizes sustainable, organic farming practices along with the latest viticultural advances.  Vineyard yields are managed by dropping crop, controlling irrigation and experimenting with different pruning and canopy management techniques to maximize maturity and ripeness in the grapes.  All of this attention to detail yields wines with intense flavor, definition and concentration.  Veramonte, introduced in 1996, has earned international recognition for Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Primus (a blend of Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot).  When the Huneeus family pioneered Chile's Casablanca Valley in 1990, there were less than 100 acres planted to vines. 

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Duckhorn Wine Company is a collection of small winery estates focused on site-specific, distinctive wines from the Napa and Anderson valleys: DUCKHORN VINEYARDS, PARADUX and GOLDENEYE.  With grapes selected from more than ten estate vineyards, as well as a variety of sought-after vineyard sites within the Napa and Anderson Valley appellations, each winery is presented with a canvas of lots from which to blend its wines.  Co-founded by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn in 1976, Duckhorn Vineyards has been crafting classic Bordeaux varietals from the Napa Valley for nearly 30 years.  This winemaking tradition has grown to include seven meticulously farmed estate vineyards, located throughout the various microclimates of the Napa Valley.

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DRY CREEK VINEYARDS introduces a new proprietary blend, The Mariner.  "It’s an exciting time at Dry Creek Vineyard.  For 35 years, we have dedicated ourselves to producing high quality wines that define a varietal category.  In July 2003, winemaker Bill Knuttel was hired to help us implement a new vision for our winery, a blended wine.  After five years of hard work, we're introducing a new proprietary blend of the five noble Bordeaux  varietals called The Mariner. With a seasoned winemaking team, exciting new estate vineyards, and a vastly improved barrel program, we strive to continue a long legacy of fine wine at Dry Creek Vineyard.  

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LUNA VINEYARDS has released its latest Pinot Grigio and something new.   Luna Vineyards President & CEO Mary Ann Tsai heads a dedicated team in crafting Napa Valley wines using top-quality fruit and natural yeasts. Luna has been a benchmark producer of Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese, and now introduces "Freakout." 

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R COLLECTION wines from RAYMOND VINEYARDS have been released.   These considerately priced wines are beautifully crafted by the well-established Raymond family of winemakers. 

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SEQUOIA GROVE is located on 24 acres in the heart of the Rutherford Bench, a prestigious Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon appellation.  For 30 years, Sequoia Grove has been recognized for its commitment to crafting award winning Bordeaux style wines that emphasize finesse and balance from the regions superlative fruit sources.   Today the boutique producer and specialist in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon remains true to varietal character and continues to be recognized for excellent quality and value.

KING ESTATE celebrated 16 years of Oregon winemaking in 2007.  It is located southwest of Eugene, Oregon and produces Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and limited amounts of Chardonnay.  Founded by the King family, King Estate produced Oregon wines of exceptional quality using sustainable farming methods, meticulous fruit selection and winemaking practices and judicious blending.   The 1,033-acre estate is certified organic and includes 465 acres of organic vineyards, as well as 30 acres of fruits, vegetables, and flowers.

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QUINTESSA: "Fine Wine is a Reflection of Place, so in 1989 Valeria and I found the property that would become QUINTESSA, a remarkable estate in the heart of the renowned Rutherford appellation of Napa Valley.  With 280 acres, it was the last great undeveloped property in Napa Valley and had all the characteristics of a great wine estate: rolling hills, many different microclimates and a vast diversity of soil types.   Now with nearly fifteen years of growth, the vines have lost their youthful exuberance and have developed into a balanced vineyard that needs little manipulation to produce low yields and concentrated flavors." Agustin Huneeus
Vintner/Proprietor 

"The Vineyard's Diversity Defines Quintessa," says Valeria Huneeus, Vineyard Master/Proprietor. "The fact that the property at QUINTESSA had never been planted to grapes before spoke to the vivacity of the soil and the absence of grape pests. But it was amazing the diversity of the land that convinced us of Quintessa's potential to be one of the truly great wine estates of the world. The estate includes a valley, a lake, a river, five hills, four microclimates and numerous different soil types.  Few vineyards anywhere encompass such diversity."

QUINTESSA 2004 Rutherford, Napa Valley $125: "Due to a very concentrated vintage, the 2004 Quintessa takes a departure into the realm of power, allthe while maintaining the finesse and elegance that have been the signature of the wine from the Quintessa Estate since its inception.  An opaque jet black robe leads to a bold attack, transitioning into a weighty layered mid-palette of infinite complexity.  The finish is supple and round with good length and exquisitely forged tannins."  Aaron Pott, Winemaker

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CLOS DU BOIS has offered two tiers of its Merlot wines, CLASSICS and the APPELLATION RESERVE SERIES, reporting that Merlot "is the most popular red wine in the U.S. today," according to Impact Databank.  "Having endured movie slurs and market slumps, Merlot's faithful fans remain devoted to this well-made CLOS DU BOIS wine."

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LOCKWOOD: One of the great truisms is that world-class wines come from great vineyard locations and uncompromised excellence in winemaking.  Given this ideal, Lockwood Vineyard was created in 1989 to produce premium and ultra-premium wines from a single, contiguous 1,850 acre vineyard located in the southern extremities of Monterey County.  The Lockwood partners are dedicated to estate bottled wines, a legal definition that requires 100 percent of the wine to be grown, produced and bottled from vines exclusively tended and vinified on-site.  The large estate was planted in 1981 under the direction of founding partners Paul Toeppen, Phil Johnson and Butch Lindley, who have cumulative vineyard management experience of over 90 years. The parcel was carefully chosen, having an excellent climate, soil structure and water source for premium grapes.  The vineyard is one of the largest premium estate vineyards in the world, selling fruit to a handful of California’s most elite wineries.

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© 2007 Sarah Jane English
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