The Sarah
Jane English Newsletter: 84th Edition
July 11, 2007
TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (store prices vary; look for currect release) $Best Buy
NEWS
CHARLES KRUG WINERY owner Peter Mondavi family has announced a $4 million restoration of this estate north of St. Helena. The Renovation of Napa Valley's first winery buildings--1860s-era winery and Carriage House, both federally registered national landmarks--has begun. They were originally built by the region's first vintner, Charles Krug--a Prussian immigrant who became the first commercial vintner in Napa Valley. His winery was damaged by fire in 1874 and has been expanded and modified over the years. Ultimately it was named Redwood Cellar when Cesare and Rosa Mondavi purchased the Krug estate in 1943 and installed redwood tanks. "When my parents bought the property, these buildings were the heart of the winery," recalls 92-year-old Peter Mondavi, who is still active at the winery. "We never thought of them as show pieces, but as places for the work of winemaking." The Peter Mondavi family is documenting the project in photographs on www.charleskrug.com The public is invited to log on to see the restoration as it progresses.
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WINE INSTITUTE ELECTS NEW OFFICERS: Jasper (Jay) Indelicato was elected Wine Institute board chairman for the 2007-2008 fiscal year at the 73rd Annual Wine Institute Meeting of Members. He is
chief operating officer at Delicato Family Vineyards headquartered in Napa, with the San Bernabe Vineyard in Monterey County and a winery in Manteca. Also elected were Margaret Duckhorn of Duckhorn Vineyards in St. Helena, first vice chairman; Raymond Chadwick of Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, headquartered in Napa, second vice chairman; Tom Klein of Rodney Strong Vineyards in Healdsburg, treasurer; and David Kent of the Wine Group, headquartered in San Francisco, secretary.__________________________________________________________________
ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY Releases 2007 Taste3 Conference Videos On-Line: Taste3 Conference Videos of some of the speakers are available.
More video talks are scheduled for release, and highlights, photos and
tasting notes are all online as well. There is also a You Tube page of all videos we've released to date.
Register now until July 31 to receive two-for-one all access conference
passes for 2008 Taste3.
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FIRST AMERICAN WINE REGION PROTECTED by EUROPEAN UNION:
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ROUND POND ESTATE Completes Winery and Tasting Room: The forthcoming opening of the winery at Round Pond Estate--a family-owned-and-run working estate of vineyards, gardens and orchards--bodes well for proprietors Ryan and Miles MacDonnell. Already producers of artisan extra virgin olive oil and red wine vinegars in Napa Valley, their venture into wine has met with praise. The inaugural release of the flagship estate wine, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, is a well-crafted blend. The winery will be open to the public by appointment on June22. www.roundpond.com
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MENDOCINO WINE BY THE SEA, presented by the Mendocino Winegrape and Wine Commission, celebrates the region's wines and rich bounty Friday, June 22 and Saturday, June 23. For information (707) 468-9886 or www.mendowine.com
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MENDOCINO has three organizations uniting to promote the region. "Go Mendo" suggests visitors "Discover the Undiscovered." Mendocino is a land of rugged and dramatic coastlines, rough timberlands and majestic redwood forests. Its unspoiled beauty, enchanting villages and vineyards show the regions past and promising future. The Mendocino Winegrape and Wine Commission, the Mendocino Lodging Association and the Mendocino Promotional Alliance have joined together to invite visitors to discover the diversity of the region. For information: www.mendowine.com and www.mcla.info and www.gomendo.com
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WILSON DANIELS LTD. and REPUBLIC NATIONAL DISTRIBUTING COMPANY really know how to entertain with an elegant wines tasting event. They did so in Austin, and other major U.S. cities, and some of the wines tasted are listed below. I've never been to a lovelier, more gracious distributors' tasting, and the wines were equal to the event.
Champagne Delamotte Brut Le Mesnil-sur-Oger $50
Champagne Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 1996 $350
Domaine Marc KreYdenweiss
Andlau Riesling 2005 $24; Wiebelsberg Riesling Grand Cru 2005 $44;
Kastelberg Riesling Grand Cru 2005 $77; Lerchenberg Pinot Gris 2005 $29; Clos Rebberg
Pinot Gris 2005 $42; Kritt Gewurztraminer 2005 $32
Domaine Leflaive 2005 Macon-Verze, France $31 and the Domaine
Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2005 Clavoillon 1er Cru $123
Morey-Blanc Saint-Aubin 2005 Les Pucelles, France $42; and the Morey-Blanc 2005 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru $48
Domaine Pierre Mores 2005 Meursault, France
$80; Meursault 2005 Perrieres 1er
Cru $132; and the Domaine
Pierre Mores Bourgogne 2005 Pinot Noir $24
Domaine Faiveley, France Georges Faiveley 2005 Chardonnay Bourgogne, France $20; Montagny 2005 Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet, Francce $24; Mercurey 2005 Clos Rochette Monopole, France $30; Chablis 2005 Les Clos Grand Cru, France $88
Joseph Faiveley 2005 Pinot Noir
Bourgogne, France $20; the 2005 Mercurey Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet, Francce $23;
the Beaune
2005 Clos de l'Ecu 1er Cru Monopole, France $71; the Gevrey-Chambertin 2005 Les Gazetiers 1er Cru, France $99; and the Corton Clos des
Cortons Faiveley 2005 Grand Cru Monopole, France $195
Mastroberardino 2005 Fiano di Avellino, Italy $24;
Mastroberardino 2005 NovaSerra Greco di Tufo, Italy $24; Mastroberardino 2001 Radici
Taurasi, Italy $41
Tenimenti Angelini Val di Suga, Italy
Rosso Rosso Montalcino 2004 $25; Brunello di Montalcino 2001 $52;
Vigna Spuntali Brunello di Montalcino 1999 $86
San Leonino Chianti Classico Riserva 2003 $38
Castello di Volpaia, Italy
2004 Chianti Classico Riserva $34; the 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva
Coltassala $46; and the 2003 Balifico Toscana $48
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The 27th Annual NAPA VALLEY VINTNERS' (NVV) Charity Wine Auction raised
almost $9 million during the annual four-day event, for health care, youth services and
affordable housing non-profits. Appropriately themed The American
Classic, the event again focused on the outstanding wines from NVV member wineries,
the culinary excellence of the regions chefs and restaurateurs, the renowned
hospitality of the vintners and the collaborative effort in the
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DOMINUS Winemaker Boris Champy returns
to Europe and Tod Mostero joins DOMINUS as technical director. After ten years with Dominus, the time
is right for my family to return to Europe, said Champy. Ive learned so much about viticulture
and winemaking from Christian Moueix and Jean-Claude Berrouet, and I am ready for new
challenges.
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KENDALL-JACKSON Winery Hosts the 11th Annual Heirloom Tomato Festival on
Saturday, September 8, 2007--11 A.M. to 4 P.M. at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Center, 5007
Fulton Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95439 (Fulton Road exit on Highway 101--five minutes north of
downtown Santa Rosa). The event will benefit The School Garden Network.
To order tickets (this event sells out each year so tickets are not available at the
door), call (800) 769-3649 or see www.kj.com
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MEADOWOOD RESTAURANT EARNS STARS: San Francisco Chronicle
restaurant critic Michael Bauer writes that " The
restaurant initially opened in the 1980s, but closed for three years before being reopened
about 18 months ago under chef Joseph Humphrey, and it deserves a lot more buzz than it
has received," he says. Excerpts from his article appear below. "Few
restaurants capture the magic of the valley as well as this Howard Backen-designed space.
With large, elegantly-set tables, huge vases of tightly gathered white roses on a
service counter in the center of the 48-seat dining room and walls of windows overlooking
a 24-seat terrace, it's a prime spot for romance or a special occasion. Frette linens,
crystal glasses and beautifully weighted flatware speak of luxury, a dynamic juxtaposition
to the manicured country setting. ¶ The menu features ingredients
mostly from surrounding farms and the Meadowood gardens. Diners can choose from a
three- ($65), four- ($80) or five-course ($95) a la carte menu, a seven-course chef's
tasting menu ($120) or several specialty menus, including an all-vegetable "Local
Garden" ($85) and a seven-course summer truffle menu ($125). The food was
imaginatively conceived and presented, and service was smooth and efficient. The staff was
professional without being too formal, a hard line to walk but done here with great skill.
¶ WINE LIST: A List You Can Trust
From the 50-page wine list at the Restaurant at Meadowood is a compendium
of 800 of the world's greatest wines. ¶
While most of the wines are from Napa Valley and elsewhere in California,
the international selections round out the list nicely. On any given night, 26 wines are
offered by the glass (plus 17 dessert offerings), with a good selection of half bottles.
Given the quality of the stemware, the 11,000-bottle inventory and the care taken serving
the wine, prices are reasonable and less than you'll pay at other places with fewer
choices. In addition, under wine educator Gilles de Chambure, one of only a handful of
Master Sommeliers in North America, Meadowood has instituted an extensive wine education
program that includes mealtime pairings, afternoon wine receptions and more in-depth
programs and tours." Corkage is $20. -- M.B.
Restaurant at Meadowood, 900 Meadowood Lane (near Silverado Trail), St.
Helena; (707) 967-1205. Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Full bar.
Reservations and credit cards accepted. Free parking lot.
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ZD WINES 2006 Rosa Lee Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley $20 has a new closure. Under the tear-top foil is a glass enclosure (glass slipper) that makes it easier than ever to enjoy this wine, so no corkscrew is required (please see below).
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FALL CREEK VINEYARDS Announces 18th Annual Grape Stomp and Harvest Festival, August 18th and 25th from 11am to 5pm --rain or shine! All events or indoors or "mist cooled" for comfort. Complimentary Family Festivities include: grape stomping, winery tour, castle bounce, hayrides, and live music. Make your reservations now for reserved seating and pre-ordered box lunch. Fall Creek wines may be purchased in addition. Cooking Demonstration with lunch and wine is $22 per person; Wine Tasting of six wines with gift glass is $4 per person; Your Grape-stomp imprint T-shirt $14; Afternoon wine and food pairing classes $15 per person (to benefit Texas Culinary Academy Scholarship program). Call 325/379-5361or visit www.fcv.com for information.
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THE WINE & FOOD FOUNDATION OF TEXAS NAMES NEW PRESIDENT, DIRECTORS: J. Buckner Hightower has been named president of The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas, the states largest charity dedicated to the art of wine and food, for the 2007-08. ¶ Hightower, who succeeds Austin restaurateur Michael Vilim, brings a diverse background of business experience, wine and food knowledge, and proven success in the non-profit sector. His professional career is a mosaic of experience in manufacturing, restaurants, real estate development, international aerospace, and music recording--many as Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial Officer. ¶ He is a member of the Board of Trustees for the International Space University (Strasbourg). For his work in the Robert Heinlein Prize Trust (which initiates advanced aerospace students' contests) he was inducted into The Order of Gagarin--an honor The Cosmonautics Federation of Russia bestows on those whose work furthers aerospace education and exploration (Hightower is one of two Americans so distinguished). ¶ Hightower is a fifth-generation Texas native and graduate of The University of Texas at Austin. ¶ Other new members of the Board of Directors include: Howard Kells, owner of Doña Emilias South American Bar & Grill, and Brian Owens, former television executive and former owner of Austin Wine Merchant. The Advisory Committee welcomes: Matt Bair, Surgient; Amy Olson, Texas Culinary Academy; Ann Clark, Kitchen Design Consultant and Cookbook Author; Steve Hanes, Vintage IT Systems; Jim Stone, Managing Director, Stone Partners, Inc.; and Kevin Blessing, Central Market. For more information, visit www.winefoodfoundation.org
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STEVENSWOOD SPA RESTAURANT announced its
new chef and menu. The Restaurant at Stevenswood leads Mendocino with an emphasis on organic, sustainable, and
seasonal ingredients, artfully prepared by Executive Chef Randy Lewis. Michael Webster, Principal at Stevenswood Spa
Resort, says "Chef Lewis blends the
flavors of Europe's finest restaurants into fresh New American cuisine to
create the pinnacle of dining experiences for the region.
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THE WINE & FOOD FOUNDATION OF TEXAS will host the "Everything Texas Dinner" at Mirabelle Restaurant, 8127 Mesa Drive, Austin, on Sunday, July 15 from 4:00 to 8:00 P.M. with only Texas products. For information: www.winefoodfoundation.org or (512) 327-755
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NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments; wines are listed as they are received; prices are the producers' suggested retail) ____________________________________________________________________________
CAMERON HUGHES WINE has an interesting history. Owner Cameron Hughes tell me that he has an obsession for quality and innovation and that he is dedicated to delivering the best domestic and international wine values in the marketplace today. "Our focus is on buying at the high-end, small available 'Lots' of super premium wine. Not all high-end wine is bottled and sold, so we rescue those high-end 'Lots' and do some stylistic blending and then sell them directly to you or our retailers. So in short: no winery, no distributor and no wholesaler. That's a lot of cost taken out without ever compromising the quality of the wine." Cameron explained wine does not cost a lot to make, it costs a lot to market and sell. With virtually no overhead, and by selling directly to Costco, he offers $30-$50 values for between $8 to $14. "We sell to a major retailer and cut out the middlemen. However, instead of working the low-end bulk market, we work only the high-end by purchasing small lots of wine from some of the best wineries on the planet. Each Lot is bottled as such, Lot 14 Napa Valley Merlot, Lot 15 Napa Cabernet, Lot 16 Stag's Leap Cabernet, etc. For instance, take a $25 Napa Cabernet, less than 17% of the retail price is actual cost of the wine itself! The rest is mostly wholesale and retail margins. By buying small lots of high-end bulk wine from producers and by shipping directly to Costco (that works on less than 14% margin) we cut, on average, about 66% off the retail price and give you, our customers, the best deals in the wine business. Our company produces and markets wine under the Cameron Hughes Lot program. We do not own vineyards or ferment wine. Our business model is built around what we call in the industry the spot market for super/ultra premium bulk wines. Essentially, we eliminate the middlemen. We use our palates as guides to deliver delicious, super premium wine that is easily accessible price and style-wise. Our company is founded on the concept that excellent wine should be available at a value price. " For information: info@chwine.com or call 1-800-805-1971, M-F, 8 a.m. - 6 p.m. PST
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DOMINUS 2004 of "Napa terroir and Bordeaux spirit," as owner Christian Moueix is fond of saying, has been released. "With much excitement, we are pleased to announce our 2004 DOMINUS," Moueix says, "with its elegant integration of tannins and fruit, along with a balanced and complex structure that will make it especially pleasurable." Moueix reports that the 2004 growing season was the shortest in recent history. "A spring heatwave prompted early budbreak and warm temperatures continued throughout the summer which resulted in an early harvest. Dominus has deep red color, an intense nose of vanilla, black currants and cedar, flavors of warm mulled spices on the mid-palate complement the balanced and complex structure. The long, aromatic finish exhibits notes of leather and cardamom." The wine blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. No Merlot was used in the blend this year. "The wine is charming and fragrant and will age gracefully. We recommend decanting the wine prior to serving, to allow it to develop its full potential. This is especially important when serving young DOMINUS wines."
NAPANOOK has released the current vintage, 2004. As always, the wine was produced from grapes grown at the historic Napanook Vineyard in Yountville, Napa Valley. The wine is blended from vineyard blocks that were carefully selected for their lively fruit, soft tannins and early maturing characteristics. The 2004 growing season began with a normal winter and moderate rainfall, but a heat wave in March prompted an early budbreak. The warm weather lasted from April through September, and with severe crop thinning, the harvest was the earliest and third smallest on record for Dominus. The 2004 vintage has a deep ruby color, with a ripe, fruity nose. Its intense aromas of clove and raspberry lead to a hint of chocolate. The sweet, lingering tannins develop into an expression of sun-dried cherries. NAPANOOK 2004 Red Wine, Napa Valley ($39) is made to be enjoyed young, and consumed with food, but it will also age well for up to ten years. The winemaker recommends decanting before serving to allow it to reach its full potential.
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FERRARI-CARANO Vineyards and Winery has presented three in its series of five brand new, vineyard designate Russian River Valley Chardonnays, complete with new packaging. All wines are hand harvested, whole-cluster pressed and barrel aged in new and older French oak. Each undergoes partial malolactic fermentation and is aged sur lie for approximately 15 months. The 2005 vintage had a mild spring and summer that ensured the mature vines had a healthy canopy for the grapes. It provided the perfect combination of sunlight and heat to penetrate the grape clusters, allowing them to reach full maturity in flavor and structure. Additionally, FERRARI-CARANO Vineyards and Winery has a new 2004 Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley. Don and Rhonda Carano's dream when they first came to Sonoma County was to create a winery estate where they could craft world-class wines of unprecedented quality. Since 1985, Ferrari-Carano has been a leading producer of world class, nationally acclaimed wines. Vintage after vintage, the wines exhibit a remarkable consistency of style and elegance with the Carano's uncompromising commitment to quality and excellence, a reflection of their desire to produce memorable wines that enhance the pleasures of gracious entertaining with no expense spared. Today, Ferrari-Carano's success is based first and foremost on the persistent dedication of the best vineyard and winemaking teams, and their commitment to making the finest wines year after year, without compromise. Characterized by their elegance and finesse, depth of flavors, complexity and richness, Don and Rhonda's vision for Ferrari-Carano's multidimensional wines has been realized and are among the most enjoyable wines on the market today.
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BONNY DOON VINEYARD has had a sea of change. In July 2006, Bonny Doon sold two of its important brands--Big House and Cardinal Zin. It also converted Pacific Rim to an independent entity that is now headquartered in the Pacific Northwest. Some brands have been discontinued. "One very telling measure of the enormity of the change concerns production. In 2006 Bonny Doon planned to produce approximately 425,000 cases of wine. In 2007, actually 35,000 cases will be produced at our Santa Cruz facility," says Burke Owens, director of marketing and communications. "Our wholesale product line has slimmed down from a broad assortment to a lean, meaningful nine wines. Focus of intention is the most significant change. The focus is to identify the sites most capable of producing vins de terroir and then farming the sites to express terroir. This is Randall Grahm's renewed mission for Bonny Doon, to create great wines of finesse, subtlety, specificity and terroir. Our more concise product line and commitment to biodynamically grown grapes--and ultimately to 100% estate grown wines--will allow us to produce highly distinctive wines within the Cigare and Ca' del Solo range."
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ROSENBLUM CELLARS Winemaker Kent Rosenblum has earned a reputation for discovering and championing small, independent vineyards throughout California. From this array of exceptional fruit, Kent has established a portfolio of acclaimed single vineyard wines. Recently, his focus has included more regionally inspired bottlings, each crafted to embody the appellation personality. Drawing on fruit from several top vineyards, the grapes for the Appellation Series wines are individually fermented--often in open-top or macro-bin fermentors that are punched down by hand--to offer Kent a range of complex flavors for each blend. In addition to this labor-intensive approach, innovative winemaking practices including Rosenblum's cutting-edge yeast and barrel programs, are used to create wines that air quality with a rich, regional diversity. The following six wines are from that Appellation Series.
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SIMI Winemaker Steve Reeder tells that "Spring is the season for wine birth when new buds are swelling on the vines and new wines are being released from the winter slumber. Two of them are being reintroduced: SIMI Roseta and SIMI Sonoma County Zinfandel. The third wine is the always much-anticipated SIMI Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. SIMI has a long history of making Rosé wines. In 2005 we reintroduced Rosé to the tasting room with a food-friendly dry Rosé and it was so popular we took it national in 2006. It is a true Rosé that we named after the Rose Garden--roseto in Italian that Isabel Simi planted next to the winery building. Giuseppe and Pietro Simi's daughter Isabelle took over management of the winery at the age of 18 and ran it successfully until 1970 when she retired. Over 40 years, Isabelle planted a new rose for every U.S. president with the exception of Herbert Hoover (who enacted Prohibition!) and we've continued her tradition.
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CHATEAU de LAUNAY owner Arnaud de Raignac tells me that his family has been making wine in Bordeaux for more than five centuries. "The wines from CHATEAU de LAUNAY are born from tradition yet embrace modernization and offer beautifully structured, elegantly rich wines from the heart of Bordeaux. These wines are about breaking boundaries. Our idea was not to create a wine that was at the top of its category, but to create a wine that transcends its appellation and no longer fits within the expected quality range of a Bordeaux Superieur. CHATEAU de LAUNAY wines literally redefine their class." Mr. Raignac says they have old-world wines made with new-world philosophies that are affordably priced.
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LANDMARK VINEYARDS is a family owned premium winery rich in agricultural roots. Michael Colhoun, great-great-great-grandson of John Deere, and his wife Mary are the proprietors. Located at the base of Sugarloaf Mountain in Sonoma Valley, LANDMARK epitomizes the rustic grace and harmony that expresses Sonoma Valley.
ZD WINES President Brett deLeuze tells me that "it seems we were just walking the vineyard to decide when to harvest the grapes for this wines, and here it is in the bottle! And now you don't need a corkscrew to open it. ZD Wines has been producing world class wine almost since Norman deLeuze and Gino Zepponi launched their dream of making fine wines in 1969. A six-acre parcel of land was purchased along the Silverado Trail in Rutherford, Napa Valley, and a new winery was built in 1979. After 10 years of experience producing California wines, the four varietal focus was taken (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). Quality, consistency and style are the credo that ZD Wines has developed and nurtured over the last three decades of winemaking and achieved through intimate, personal attention to detail and masterful blending of winegrapes carefully selected from prime vineyards. ZD wines consistently are rich, flavorful and reflect varietal character, a description that has been earned from a style that gives wines of a distinct, consistent, and recognizable character. Through the years, ZD Wines have graced the tables of White House dinner parties, spanning three administrations, and a multitude of devoted wine buyers--including me. ZD Chardonnay has been a favorite of mine since my first sip--which happened at a dinner in the home of previously co-owners Barbara and Gina Zepponi, shortly before he was killed in an automobile accident. ZD wines have garnered approximately 350 awards of excellence in prestigious competitions over the years. The quality is constant and undeniable. www.zdwines.com
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KENWOOD Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignons are representative of the art of assemblage. By judiciously adding small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and sometimes other red varieties to Cabernet Sauvignon, Kenwood creates finished wines with additional dimensions of fruit, complexity and texture, more than are possible with Cabernet Sauvignon alone. The 2004 Kenwood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon and 2004 Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon show the art of assemblage; each distinctive yet displaying blending benefits. The long 2004 growing season in Sonoma County yielded a small, yet concentrated crop of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, and this element, along with the intrinsic character imparted by vineyard location and the style of each wine, dictated blending regimens.
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DeLILLE CELLARS has lovely bottles available for your dist++inct pleasure. Jay Soloff, partner, tells me DeLille has gained a distributor in Texas so luckily the wines will be convenient for local purchasing. I visited DeLille Cellars when it was completing the chai in the early 1990s and Winemaker Chris Upchurch took me from barrel to barrel to taste the future. I've returned a number of times to enjoy these exquisite, beautifully hand-crafted wines with pure delight. They remain constant in being produced finely. Early on I knew they were destined for greatness and I am pleased that everyone involved continues along that route of pursuit. The wines are pure pleasure. www.delillecellars.com.
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SHAFER 2005 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay Carneros $45 is now available for your pleasure. This wine is one of my favorite Chardonnays and always brings continuous nuances of flavor and pleasure. On 66 acres near the northern tip of San Francisco Bay, Shafer harvests fruit for this single vineyard wine. The Carneros soil is home to countless gophers who love to feast on young vine roots. To contain this problem, Shafer has erected owl nesting boxes and hawk perches to encourage day and night rodent patrol. There was a long, cool growing season for this wine, which produced delicious yields. ¶ The Red-shouldered hawks and other birds of prey do such an outstanding job, we named the vineyard in their honor, says Doug Shafer. Of the 2005 vintage, winemaker Elias Fernandez says, In a region that offers long, cool growing seasons, 2005 was longer and cooler than most. The picture-perfect summer allowed us to leave the fruit on the vine until it achieved true physiological ripeness, showing off our Carneros Chardonnay fruit at its best. There are lots of layers in your wine glass aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, Fuji apple, apricot, and exotic flavors of the tropics. The underlying acidity, resulting from our cool-weather vineyard site, is crisply integrated with warm, toasty oak, and the whole package is tied up with a long, mouth-pleasing finish.
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VALLEY OF THE MOON Director of Public Relations Margie Healy tells me that wineries that produce wines primarily with locally grown grapes enjoy a huge advantage. "With experience, these wineries discover and focus on the 'sweet spots;' vineyard locations where each variety produces its very best grapes. After seven decades in the Sonoma Valley, Valley of the Moon Winery clearly knows the regions 'sweet spots,' as demonstrated by the classic character and appealing fruit of the just-released 2005 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Zinfandel and 2004 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon.
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LAKE SONOMA WINERY 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley $15 is "the pure taste of place," says Vice President Margie Healy. "Every so often in the world of wine, a region is so perfect for the grape variety it grows, and a growing season is so perfect for that grape variety, that a winery need only harvest the ripe grapes, ferment the wine and bottle it. Such was the case with the 2006 Lake Sonoma Winery Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, crisp and delicious, this Sauvignon Blanc offers the pure taste of place. Situated in northern Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley may well be the single finest vineyard region in California for Sauvignon Blanc. The regions rocky, well-drained soils and unique climate of warm-to-hot days and marine-influenced cool nights enable Sauvignon Blanc to achieve classic character refreshing citrus fruit and herbal complexity at maturity. In 2006, the Dry Creek Valley growing season was ideal for Sauvignon Blanc. Long and unusually cool (except for a brief heat wave in July), grapes were harvested at perfect ripeness in late September. With such exceptional quality, the winemaker decided to forgo malolactic fermentation, keep the young wine in stainless steel exclusively and bottle it unblended. Enticing aromas of fresh kiwi, grapefruit and lime, accented by a dash of fresh herbs, distinguish the 2006 Lake Sonoma Winery Sauvignon Blanc. Vibrant grapefruit, lemon and lime flavors gain depth from herb and mineral background notes. Fresh and racy, yet impressively polished on the palate, this delicious mouthful finishes with lingering crispness.
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BRONCO WINE COMPANY has released three white wines for summer enjoyment.
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DIAGEO has released two news from New Zealand and Australia. Newhaven is crafted by Diageo Chateau & Estate Wine's Winemaker, Bob Masyczek (Mah-Chess-Key) whose more than twenty years of winemaking experience in the Napa Valley spent eleven at the historic Beaulieu Vineyards winery. "Only a few places in the world can define varietal character as well as Marlborough does for Sauvignon Blanc," he says. "Grapes are sourced primarily from the Wairau Valley, an area have stony, sandy loam topsoils that overlay layers of free-draining "pea-gravel" soils -- conditions that reduce vine vigor and yield lush, aromatic wines with distinctive herbaceous aromas, bracing acidity and bright fruit flavors." Sauvignon Blanc is the flagship wine of New Zealand, accounting for almost 80 percent of New Zealand wine exports to the U.S. and more than 80 percent of consumption. Recognizing the growth of the Australian wine category and American wine lovers' quest for Australian wines, Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines is introducing Archetype, an exciting new set of sophisticated Australian Shiraz from the country's premier appellation, the Barossa. Shiraz is Australia's leading red grape variety and its true home is in the Barossa region, which produces some of the country's highest-rated wines. Archetype is to create benchmark Australian wines cultivated from extraordinary vineyards.
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BODEGA Y ESTANCIA COLOMÉ in Argentina produces COLOMÉ Estate $25 and COLOMÉ Torrontés $13. COLOMÉ is a fine wine of the HESS Group. Winemaker Randle Johnson loves making wines in Argentina. We tasted his A
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DUTTON-GOLDFIELD 2004 Cherry Ridge Vineyard Syrah, Green Valley-Russian River Valley $35: "The warm 2004 ripening season provided a wonderful vintage for our Green Valley Syrah. It retains the focused blueberry fruit, bright acidity and moderate alcohol so characteristic of our area, but at the same time offers an enveloping lushness indicative of that warm season. In the nose this wine entices with aromas of blueberry, black cherry and nutmeg. It follows in the mouth with wonderfully plush tannins that carry its dark flavors of black cherry, boysenberry and toffee through to a lingering sweet finish. This is a syrah that keeps you wanting more. It's a wonderful match to salty cheeses like aged Gouda and Gruyere, or savory fowl or meat dishes. This is truly a wine that the winemaker enjoys, and hopes that you will too. 910 cases
DUTTON-GOLDFIELD 2005 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley $35: "In 2005, Mother Nature gave Russian River the kind of year we always hope for, but don't often get. We had early budbreak, then great vine growth from late spring rains; perfect flowering conditions for the chards, followed by a cool summer and moderate, dry late harvest weather. Consequently, the fruit ripened slowly and evenly; retaining its acid while building flavor and concentration. The gift of the season was obvious in the fruit with ripe flavors, good acidity, moderate sugar and no rot. The resulting wine shows what we love about Dutton Ranch Chardonnay. In the nose the classic lemon cream pie jumps out, with overtones of caraway seed, ginger and a touch of tangerine. In the mouth its core of citrus fruit and bright acid is in a setting of ginger spice that provides a lovely balance and lingering finish. This is a wine of great versatility: enjoy as an aperitif, or with rich and creamy foods and with almost any lobster or crab dish, or a roasted game bird."
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SOUVERAIN 2006 Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc $15, Winemaker Ed Killian tells me, is the "first wine crafted at the new state-of-the-art winemaking facility--custom built on the 120-year-old Souverain Estate Vineyard near Cloverdale. Most of the design focuses on maintaining small lot integrity and to gently handle the estate fruit. It is also the first wine to carry the new label. Last year, the Chateau Souverain building and restaurant sold and we wanted to move our winemaking operations directly to our estate vineyard and return to our winery's roots by going back to 'Souverain"--the original winery in 1944. While many changes have taken place over the last 18 months, the tradition of fine wine production to represent the best of Alexander Valley continues.
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GRAVITY HILLS 2003 Killer Climb Syrah, Paso Robles $40, according to owner/winemaker Matthew Regan, "has a vineyard that even visitors hearty enough to trek our property usually stop at the base and just stare up. Its elevation is 1,207 feet with an Mistral-like extreme wine and an extreme slope of 44 degrees--not to mention rocky soils. These discomforts make low yields, highly concentrated fruit and thick skins that make maximum flavor, color and complexity. After the final indignity of being pressed and fermented, the Syrah, a clone of Hermitage, is rewarded with an 18-month rest in 100% new French oak barrels. Think of it as finishing school. The result is a serious, deep, complex wine. In the glass, its opaque, almost black. Full-bodied, with well-structured tannins, the layers of ripe, red berries combine with minerals and earth, smoked game, black pepper and leather. A wine this intense requires substantial food. Skip the fish and opt for duck, lamb, game, or a good ole American steak. Killer Climb should age beautifully for up to ten years. Its also delicious now. Help it open up by splashing it into a decanter before serving. Then give it mouth to mouth.
MARTIN CÓDAX is imported by E & J Gallo and the Rías Baixas and Rioja they call the king of Spanish reds and queen of Spanish white wines--with a spanish history and pedigree that may well be reflected in the bottles. The winery was founded in 1986 and as a cooperative made up about 50% local grape growers in Galicia, northwest Spain. "The well-liked wines are showing renewed interest in the U.S.," according to Export Manager Mariola Varona. "Today the winery oversees more than 1,400 tiny parcels being farmed by 550 families in the Rías Baixas region around the town of Cambados--all estate-grown grapes go into the Albariño, the signature wine of the company. Tempranilla is often called the Cabernet Sauvignon of Spain, while research indicates that i may have a common ancestor with Pinot Noir. Another theory says the grape is native to Northern Spain. Whatever science says, Tempranilla produces wines that have the best of of both: bpdy. sturcture, layers of flavor and a rangae of textures that depend on vintage, vineyard, and winemaking style."
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MERRYVALE has released new wines from its state-of-the-art STARMONT
WINERY completed in September 2006. In an article by Paul Franson from Daily
News Links, 9/8/06, Franson reported, "Merryvale Vineyards of St. Helena opened
its new Starmont winery in the Napa County section of Carneros. The 65,000
square-foot facility crushed its first crop, two bins of Sauvignon Blanc grapes, before
guests gathered to celebrate the opening Wednesday, September 6, only two years after
construction began. Visitor facilities are not yet available. The new facility
sits on 48 acres of vines including 33 acres of Chardonnay, seven of Syrah, six of Pinot
Noir and two of Pinot Gris. The property is part of the historic Stanly Ranch, which
was recently annexed to the city of Napa, and the winery is the first large winery to be
built in the city." ¶ "Proprietor Jack
Schlatter cut the ribbon along with Napa Mayor Jill Techtel. The facility,
which suggests the area's traditional barns in its architecture, has a capacity of 150,000
cases per year, and can press 48 tons of white grapes and 60 tons of red in an 8-hour
shift." ¶ "The current capacity of
the the wine's tanks is 268,000 gallons, and that will rise to 425,000 gallons next year.
It also has room for 13,000 barrels." ¶
"A bottling line that can operate at 6000 bottles per hour will be installed in
January.
The winery uses many environmentally sensitive techniques including solar panels that can
furnish 60 to 80 percent of its electricity needs, a night ventilation system to exploit
the area's cool nights, double-pane windows, full insulation and energy-efficient
electrical equipment."
The winery uses environmentally sound practices that show social responsibility and
economic viability. They include: COMPOSTING for organic macro and micro-nutrient
additions; RECYCLING 100% of winery process water for irrigation and landscaping;
COVER CROPPING for erosion control and nutrient management; BIRD BOXES natural habitat for
beneficials and pest management, and WEATHER STATIONS for more efficient irrigation and
disease prevention.
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BERINGER FOUNDERS' ESTATE 2006 Riesling $11: "A wonderfully refreshing wine--ripe peach and apricot flavors are balanced by lemon-lime with bright acidity, this food friendly wine goes with a number of dishes as well as good sipping."
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HANDLEY CELLARS 2005 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley $30: "The 2005 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is a complex wine with beautiful aromatics of roses, violets, chocolate, blueberry, and strawberry. With dark cherry acidity and silky tannin structure, it offers good mid-palate texture and long finish. The wines subtle acidity makes it a very good complement to fresh goat cheese. Ripe tannins and good structure complement lamb, duck, and salmon." The 2005 growing season was relatively cool compared to other growing seasons in Anderson Valley. It allowed the grapes to ripen slowly, producing wines with ripe flavors and tannins and fresh dark cherry fruit acidity.
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MAYACAMAS Vineyards is sharing a library release among several others of its fine wines. Winemaker/Owner Bob Travers with his bevy of talents has provided wine lovers with more treasures. "The steep rocky slopes of the vineyards at Mayacamas yield small crops of tiny grapes. This intensely flavored fruit results in very full character development in the wines." ¶ Travers designs winemaking procedures to preserve this intensity. Average annual wine production at Mayacamas Vineyards is now approximately 5,000 cases, with the majority Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay and smaller quantities of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. ¶ This last winter (2006-2007), Travers says, was quite dry in our area but not a disastrous drought. "It was also unusually cold, except for mild flashes with budbreak at an average time for recent years so harvest should start in mid-August or soon thereafter. Cluster counts are quite healthy so crop sizes could be good if the weather is kind." ¶ About 2,000 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon are blended with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Merlot (generally less than 15% of the final wine). Seven to fourteen days of fermentation on the grape skins precede crushing and destemming. After pressing and racking several times in the next few weeks, aging occurs for two years in large American oak cask followed by a year in 60 gallon French oak barrels. After bottling, the wines age two additional years before release. Full development requires many more years and Travers recommends consuming Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon at 12 to 25 years of age. ¶ Annual production of 100% Chardonnay also averages nearly 2,000 cases without malolactic fermentation and reach maturity in five to eight years. Mayacamas Pinot Noir is released for sale when four years old and is usually at its best between its seventh and twelfth years. Just a few hundred cases are made each year. Mayacamas produces about 600 cases a year of Sauvignon Blanc, usually at its best when three to five years of age, but some vintages age well for several more years. ¶ Mayacamas is very small and we intend to keep it that way. Our objective is to make wine with as much flavor, complexity and character as grapes can deliver. Given proper care and enough time, we believe these make the most interesting and enjoyable wines of all. Monday through Friday we schedule visits to the winery by appointment. Please contact the Travers by email: mayacamas@napanet.net; (707) 224-4030.
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PROVENANCE Vineyards, in the heart of Cabernet country on Highway 29, released its first vintage in 1999. In 2001 Provenance expanded production to include a single vineyard Merlot. The same year, Provenance acquired the production facility previously known as Chateau Beaucanon. The building was refurbished and included a handsome tasting room. The floor of the winery is made from the staves of used barrels. In 2003, the winery released a very nice Sauvignon Blanc. I visited the winery in 2005 and was delighted to see Winemaker Tom Rinaldi (of Duckhorn fame) at the helm. He and his winemaking team are an integral part of the winerys success. Rinaldis philosophy is a non-invasive approach that lets the grapes natural flavors come through in the finished wine. Provenance owns vineyards in Rutherford, Oakville and Mount Veeder. The two new releases of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are humdingers. I appreciate the quality of these fine wines and I am grateful that they can be offered for $35 and $40 respectively. The style of Rinaldi's red wines are elegant yet powerful with rich, deep, intense flavors.
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GRGICH HILLS ESTATE principals Violet and Miljenko Mike Grgich say, "At our world-famous winery here in the heart of Napa Valley, we have one defining passion: to make the best wines in the world. We treat our six different wines like special children, and we pour all of our love, attention and artistry into nourishing their exceptional character and flavor."
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WHITEHALL LANE Winery, a small family-owned winery in Napa Valley's Rutherford appellation, owns 110 acres that include the Leonardini Vineyard in St. Helena. In 1979, two brothers started the winery on Whitehall Lane and directed their winemaking efforts successfully to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. ¶ A keen interest in wine led Tom Leonardini to buy WHITEHALL LANE Winery in 1993. He updated the winemaking, instituted a new barrel-aging program and continued sourcing the finest vineyards. "We started with one vineyard and now own prime vineyards that are the cornerstone on which the wines are made and include the Whitehall Lane Estate Vineyard, Rutherford West Vineyard and Bommarito Vineyard in the Rutherford Appellation, the Leonardini Vineyard and Fawn Park Vineyard in St. Helena and the Oak Glen Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District. The Leonardini Vineyard is 14 acres of gravely soil yielding powerful Cabernet Sauvignon fruit and elegant yet intense Merlot grapes that go into the "Leonardini Vineyard" vineyard-designated wine. The Fawn Park Vineyard is on a gentle slope of Eastern hillside and produces intense Cabernet Sauvignon. The 25-acre Oak Glen Vineyard produces flavorful Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. We are committed to making the finest Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Reserve wine."
ROBERT MONDAVI PRIVATE SELECTION (PMPS) Launches VINETTA: ROBERT MONDAVI Private Selection (RMPS) has introduced its first red Bordeaux style blend. Named VINETTA after the Latin word vineae (meaning vine), this wine is made of the five classic Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The U.S. wine industry has been driven by varietal wines--those labeled by the type of grape, such as Merlot or Chardonnay. Interest in red wine blends, however, has been growing. Sales are up 19% versus last year. California red blends are even outpacing the growth of many single red varietals. VINETTA is crafted from grapes grown along California's Central and North Coasts. Suggested retail is $11. RMPS is produced by Centerra Wine Company--the popular-priced and premium wine producer of Constellation Wines U.S. It is part of Constellation Wines Inc., the world's largest wine business.
DeLille Cellars comes to Texas: DeLille Cellars is a small winery located in Woodinville, Washington and was originally founded in 1992 by Greg Lill, Jay Soloff, Chris Upchurch and Charles Lill (now his daughter Pat Lill Jorgenson is shareholder/partner). Their goal for DeLille Cellars is to make the very best handcrafted, old-world style red and white wine made in the State of Washington. Greg Lill says the family, independently owned winery has"an uncompromising philosophy about the quality of what will be in your bottle of wine." ¶ DeLille Cellars produces five Bordeaux-styled wines: Grand Ciel, Chaleur Estate Red, D2, Harrison Hill and Chaleur Estate Blanc. Also produced are the Doyenne wines, awarded as one of the great 15 Syrahs of the world, which includes a classic Northern Rhône-styled Syrah, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape style red named Métier, a Provence-styled white named Métier Blanc, a Roussanne and a Provence-styled red name Aix. "We built a traditional chai style winery on the Lill family owned farm. Our beautiful ten acre site overlooks the Woodinville valley floor below, including the wineries of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Winery. The traditional DeLille Cellars structure allows for winemaking methods that duplicate those in the finest chateaux of Bordeaux; such as, open top fermenters and an underground barrel cellar." ¶ "All DeLille wines are made with the highest hand-crafted standards with grapes from only the oldest and best vineyards in Washington State--primarily the Red Mountain AVA. Grapes are hand picked and hand sorted at crush for only the finest berry clusters. Our Bordeaux-style wines are aged in 100% new French Oak barrels each and every year and are never filtered." ¶ Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rates DeLille Cellars as one of Washington's top four producers, bestowing the title of the 'Lafite Rothschild of Washington State,' and gave 95+ and 95 points to 2002 & 2003 Chaleur Estate red respectively. The Institute of the Masters of Wine in London, England also honored DeLille Cellars with the 'Certificate of Excellence' award, the only winery from the northwest to receive this honor. The Wine Spectator awarded scores of 90-93 for Chaleur Estate red every vintage year from 1998-2003, and selected this wine as one of its eight Top Scoring wines from Washington. Seven of the last eight years, the DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate red wine was awarded a score of 91-96 points and a platinum medal, as well as twice being declared one of the top 100 wines of the world by the Wine Enthusiast. In 1997, DeLille Cellars broke the record for the highest price paid for a bottle of Washington State wine at auction ($16,000). DeLILLE CELLARS has lovely bottles available for your distinct pleasure. Jay Soloff, partner, tells me DeLille has gained a distributor in Texas so luckily the wines will be convenient for local purchasing. I visited DeLille Cellars when it was completing the chai in the early 1990s and Winemaker Chris Upchurch took me from barrel to barrel to taste the future. I've returned a number of times to enjoy these exquisite, beautifully hand-crafted wines with pure delight. They remain constant in being produced finely. Early on I knew they were destined for greatness and I am pleased that everyone involved continues along that route of pursuit. The wines are pure pleasure. www.delillecellars.com.
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