The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  80th Edition
November 25, 2006

SARAH JANE ENGLISH Designs Individual Wine Programs: TASTING PRESENTATIONS, WINE SHOWERS (better than a Kitchen Shower), SPEAKER for an EVENT and so forth.  The Best Way To Learn Wines Is To Taste Them.  Want a wine coach?   Please Contact Sarah Jane For Your Personal Class. sarahjaneenglish@sbcglobal.net (512) 474-1889

Classes Scheduled for Junior League members and their guests: February 8, 2007; March 8, 2007, AND April 12, 2007. My first class, "Introduction to Wine 101," will explain names and kinds of wines, give an overview on tasting wines and tell how to analyze the beverage for your specific palate.   To learn more about wines, I shall present two additional classes for Junior League members and their guests: March 8, 2007, "Myths, Tips and More," and on April 12, 2007, "Understanding Wine Types and Which Wines to Age and why, and Pairings."   Each class will explore new wines, more ideas and information.  For example, I recently visited the cork forests and factories in Portugal, which manufacture 90 per cent of the world's cork closures, and I have much to tell and show you about wine closures.   Your questions are invited. Contact information: sarahjaneenglish@sbcglobal.net (512) 474-1889

TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $Best Buy

BUBBLES for the Holidays: Celebrate life with champagnes and other sparkling wines. 

WINERY OF THE MONTH: COSENTINO owner Mitch Cosentino is known for his ultra-premium, limited production wines.  COSENTINO Winery, celebrating its 25th year with a new label, produces approximately 30 award-winning wines, hand-crafted from small lots of high quality fruit. Inspired by the artistic approach to winemaking and the natural characteristics of the grapes, Mitch Cosentino lets his palate guide him. The production of each wine varies from year to year, based on the quality and yield of the vintage.  "I want the art developing the business," Cosentino says, “not the business creating the art.”  Mitch Cosentino began making wine in small lots in 1980 in Modesto, California. Ten years later he moved his operation to the Napa Valley. Here, he continues a hands-on, old world approach to winemaking.  Cosentino has a passion for winemaking and respect for traditional methods.   Today, his ultra-premium, limited production wines are produced with more than 17 varietals.  As Cosentino continues to discover new varietals and produce new wines, the "micro" approach to winemaking remains consistent.  His talent for identifying fruit sources and determining blends continues to be his driving force.  Mitch Cosentino's signature Meritage red M COZ, was awarded a Double Gold Medal for the 2003 vintage at the 2006 San Francisco International Wine Competition.  Year after year M COZ continues to be highly awarded in many prestigious competitions.  It has been named "Double Gold," "Best of Class," "Best of Show," "Chairman's Best of Class," all of the above together with a Double Gold or Gold, "Year's Best Cabernet Sauvignon," and on and on since the 1999 vintage. Do yourself a favor and enjoy these wines at your table.

SPLURGE WINE OF THE MONTH: Cosentino 2003 Meritage red M COZ, $120--if you can find it.

NEWS   

TALBOTT VINEYARD Celebrated the 20th Anniversary of its Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay in Austin, Texas, at Fino Restaurant on September 13.  Current and rare library releases were tasted and showed very well indeed.   www.talbottvineyards.com

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KENDALL-JACKSON 2006 Harvest Report: Kendall-Jackson Winemaster Randy Ullom says, "By all early appearances, it’s another stellar year of ripeness, quality and quantity."  ¶  California 2006 wine grape harvest is expected to be smaller than last year’s record, but still large with 3.2 million tons.  Overall, harvest across the coastal regions is considered "normal," or "slightly less than normal," by Kendall-Jackson (K-J) winemakers and vineyard managers.  ¶  Prolonged heat had little effect on coastal grapes even though Napa Valley’s Calistoga and Sonoma County’s Healdsburg recorded multiple days at 115 degrees.   ¶  The big K-J news is a series of vineyard acquisitions and plantings to support its multiple-tier wine strategy--Vintner’s Reserve, Grand Reserve and Highland Estates.  ¶  Over 18 months, K-J acquired and/or planted new vineyards primarily in the mountains above Alexander Valley, the ridges of Mendocino's Anderson Valley and Monterey's Arroyo Seco bench.  They secure and strengthen K-J’s Estate Grown position in the marketplace.  K-J’s Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot join the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay in featuring "Jackson Estates Grown" on the label.  "Owning and controlling grape sources lets K-J winemakers ensure the consistent quality of each bottle through precision farming methods."  www.kj.com.

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DUCKHORN WINE COMPANY is a collection of small winery estates focused on distinctive site-specific wines from Napa and Anderson valleys with a commitment to quality.  Duckhorn Wine Company includes Duckhorn Vineyards, Paraduxx and Goldeneye. With grapes selected from more than ten estate vineyards, and a variety of prized sites within the Napa and Anderson Valley appellations, each winery has preferred lots from which to blend its wines.  Duckhorn Vineyards has a new vineyard addition.  "Purchased in the fall of 2005, Cork Tree Vineyard fulfills our long-standing desire to own a quality merlot vineyard in the southern, cooler part of Napa Valley," says Dan Duckhorn.  "From vintage to vintage, these regional grapes have added supple depth and a distinct flavor profile to our Napa Valley wines.  Cork Tree has 20 acres--13 planted to merlot, one to petit verdot and one to cabernet franc.  Winemaker Jeff Roberts is excited to integrate this site into our Estate portfolio."

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SEEGER'S RESTAURANT, Atlanta, remains open.  Recently, Chef Guenter Seeger announced that his restaurant would close; however, a banker deemed it too sad a loss and convinced Chef Seeger to remain open, commenting, "Seeger's is a great treasure for Buckhead, Atlanta and Georgia and we cannot just let him slip away from us," says James Miller of Fidelity Bank.  .  "I guess my bid for a Michelin star will have to wait," noted Seeger.   "It is more important that I remain at Seeger's and continue to serve a community that has so profoundly supported me during my last 22 years here."     

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AMORIM CORK: AMORIM GROUP is one of the largest companies in Portugal and the world's leading cork producer.  Dating back to 1870, the wine and cork industries grew simultaneously.  Today, Amorim is the largest cork-stopper factory in the world.   Visiting the facilities during September gave me insight into the production of cork wine closures and high respect for process.  In the 1980s Amorim increased innovation, research and development, new products and technology and extensive quality control programs.  In 2002, Amorim opened a state-of-the-art primary processing facility in Portugal in the heart of the cork forests.  Please see my story below.

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THE POINT, one of the first US hotels selected by Relais & Châteaux and a member of the nation's finest small luxury hotels, will be sold to THE CONSERVANCY & SPORTING SOCIETY, sponsors of the Guggenheim Foundation for International Conservation.  ¶  The Garrett Hotel Group, premier luxury hotel group, and The Conservancy & Sporting Society together announced the sale before year-end of 2006.  The Point, consistently rated one of the best hotels in the world, is widely considered America’s first luxury “boutique” property and the originator of the Adirondack rustic-luxury concept.  It commands the world’s highest average daily rate and has become the standard measure of most other exclusive hotels.  The Conservancy's co-founder James Millership reported that they are looking for the "very, very long-term."   ¶ "To include this world-renowned property in our portfolio, says Millership, "sets the stage for us to become the world's foremost member-based conservation land-holder.  We are so pleased that The Garrett Hotel Group will continue to operate The Point, which will remain open to all, with the exacting standards that have made it a legend." ¶    David Garret agreed to sell the property because "there was no higher level for The Point than the opportunity to protect forevermore this extraordinary place.   We are delighted to pass the stewardship of this legendary hotel (a former Rockefeller residence and one of the last true Adirondack Great Camps) onto The Conservatory."  The Concervancy is a collection of the world's most precious sporting and recreational properties and committed to "reducing the human footprint, to rebuilding habitats, fish and game stocks, and to conserving wild lands.  It is a membership-based organization dedicated to permanently protecting nature's masterpieces."  

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EDITORIAL SUPPORTS "CALIFORNIA" BRAND: Karen Ross, president of California Association of Winegrape Growers (CAWG) , writes about an "accelerating trend towards global wine sourcing by a few U.S.-based wine companies."  This challenges winegrape growers to consider how to foster consumer loyalty for wines from California's unique natural resources.  Statistics and indications show "wine sales are up . . .  and fast closing the gap on beer,  but there is a nagging concern about increased market share for imports and the pressure it puts on prices. . . . By May 2006, bulk table wine imports were 2.6 million equivalent cases, up 229% from last year, a concern for growers of high quality California wine grapes. . . .  American wine companies are importing lower priced foreign brands to complement ther portfolios to satisfy distributors and retailers. . . .  American shoppers are showing that price matters more than origin. . . .   This pricing has led to the most bothersome trend in global wine sourcing – the blending of California wine with imported wine for “American” appellation products.  To protect California wines' image, a 1942 state law requires California appellation wines to be 100% from grapes grown in California.  However, under federal regulations, an American appellation can be used by blending up to 25% of an imported wine into a California (or another state) wine."   Ross proposes identification on the wine label of the pecentage of wine from other sources.  " No one has a greater stake in fostering consumer appreciation and loyalty for California wine than the people who own and farm the vineyards of our state.  As we reach out to consumers across America, let’s be sure the integrity, quality and price of our products justifies the consumers’ trust."  For information:  916/924-5370 (phone)  916/924-5374 (fax) karen@cawg.org     www.cawg.org  

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MONTEREY COUNTY INTERNATIONAL PROGRAM: The Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association will host a cross-cultural wine exchange program with the South African Wine Industry Trust (SAWIT) and the United States South Africa Wine Foundation.  Five S. Africa apprentices (all with winemaking experience in their countrys) will work with Monterey vintners for six weeks--in  vineyards, wine cellars, and business offices of Monterey wineries.  Blackstone Winery, Cima Collina, Hahn Estates, Scheid Vineyards, and the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association will host the program.   

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BENZIGER FAMILY WINERY NAMED: Benziger was named one of the best places to work in the North Bay by the North Bay Business Journal.  One of  24 awarded companies (the only winery),  Benziger employees cited the family's approachability and commitment to natural farming as two reasons they love their jobs.  ¶  "Every employee feels his contribution is as important as anyone else's," wrote one Benziger employee.  Another said he enjoys "being treated like a member of the family."  ¶  On average, Benziger's 70 employees have been with the winery for 13 years.  ¶  "This is the most meaningful award I have received in our 25-year-history," said Mike Benziger. "Everyone who works here is an important part of our team."  

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THE VINES OF MENDOSA in Mendoza, Argentina, is an experiential wine tourism and hospitality company that gives wine enthusiasts the most complete Argentine wine experience possible.  It offers a “wine immersion” experience through three distinct channels:
1. Private Vineyard Estates - The Vines of Mendoza has 50 professionally-managed Private Vineyard Estates available in 4 to 12 acre parcels that give wine enthusiasts the opportunity to own and plant their own vineyard and work with master winemakers in producing their own wine. 
2. Tasting Room and Wine Club - The Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room & Information Center – the first and only collective tasting room in South America - and the Acequia Wine Club bring premium, undiscovered wines to an ever increasing community of international wine enthusiasts. 
3. Boutique Wine Resort - The Private Vineyard Estates will surround The Vines of Mendoza Resort & Spa, a five-star, luxury vineyard resort scheduled to open in 2008, offering exclusive wine programs, services and amenities unparalleled in South America.   
>From vine to bottle, wine enthusiasts can own their own and plant their own vineyard, produce their own wine, sample a range of local wines, discover regional cuisine pairings, and attend seminars with master winemakers.
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FALL CREEK VINEYARDS celebrates Hill Country Art & Wines Trail by showcasing Janey Rives and J Space Gallery. Join the hosts and artists on the Fall Creek Winery courtyard patio on Saturday, November 18th from 11:00am – 5:00pm.  Janey, Hill County artist and interior designer, is a graduate of The University of Texas at Austin and is committed to design and color.   Enjoy sipping a warm glass of Holiday Mulled Wine along with a “snack boat” of Fondue Appetizer Bites from their selection of gourmet food items.  Janey's art collection of precious metals, clay, drawings of watercolor and oils as well as an array of photography will be on exhibition for your viewing and purchasing pleasure.   Brouse amongthe holiday gifts and wines and food selections for sale in the Tasting Room.   FALL CREEK VINEYARDS is centrally located on the northwest shores of Lake Buchanan at Tow, Texas, in the Hill Country.    The tasting room and gift shop/gourmet food bar staff cordially invites guests to tour, taste and relax on the courtyard savoring the many acclaimed wines: Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chenin Blanc, Meritus, and others.   www.fcv.com (325)379-5361 / 1820 C R 2241/222 off Hwy 29, at Tow, Texas: M – F, 11am – 4:00pm; Sat, 11am - 5pm; Sun,  noon – 4pm  Group tours & private events welcome.

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CHARLES KRUG WINERY, (the oldest Napa Valley winery) has three vineyards now certified organic by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), a non-profit organic certification organization, making the Peter Mondavi Family among Napa Valley's largest organic landowners.  Under the leadership of family patriarch Peter Mondavi, 91, the winery was first in Napa Valley to use cold fermentation of white wines, first to use French oak barrels for aging wine and among first to use glass lined fermentation tanks.  Under the leadership of Peter Mondavi, Jr., Charles Krug is innovating organic farming.

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CANOLA OIL news: Canola oil is now eligible to bear a qualified health claim on its ability to reduce the risk of coronary heart disease (CHD) due to its unsaturated fat content, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration announced. The claim, which canola oil bottlers and makers of eligible products* may use on labels, states: "Limited and not conclusive scientific evidence suggests that eating about  1 1/2 tablespoons of canola oil daily may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease due to its unsaturated fat content--used to replace a similar amount of saturated fat.)  For details of the FDA Qualified Health Claim for canola oil, go to www.canola-council.org <http://www.canola-council.org/> .   

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CORK SUPPLY GROUP: The Cork Supply Group is investing over €2.8 million ($3.55 million US) on a new cork production facility in Portugal.  Cork Supply USA CEO James Herwatt says, "Cork continues to be the preferred seal for premium wines and our investment ensures we'll supply the quality corks consumers demand."

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WINE & SPIRITS MAGAZINE NAMES KENDALL-JACKSON A WINERY OF THE YEAR:  After blind tasting nearly 3,200 newly released American wines in 2006, Wine & Spirits magazine editors named Kendall-Jackson one of its "Multi-Source Wineries of the Year." ¶    The winery award, announced in the magazine’s annual 2006 "100 Best" Buying Guide and at a special San Francisco tasting, is broken down into several categories among wineries whose production features one of the following: multi-source from several appellations; estate grown; regional or single appellation; artisan producers making fewer than 25,000 cases; and sparkling wine.   This is the seventh time Kendall-Jackson has won the prestigious award since the competition’s inception in 1987.  ¶  KENDALL-JACKSON’S 2004 GRAND RESERVE CHARDONNAY TOP MEDAL-WINNING CHARDONNAY OF THE YEAR - Consistency, that distinctly American wine trait, is one of the hallmarks of excellence that many winemakers in California strive to attain. Given the weather and other variables, creating a wine that maintains a certain standard of quality, vintage to vintage, may be one of the most difficult tasks a winemaker faces.   ¶  Consistency in winning across a broad spectrum of wine competitions is even more challenging, given the large number of important competitions and the variety of judging palates. The Dallas Morning News, the Orange County Fair, the California State Fair, the San Francisco Chronicle and the New World Wine competitions are just a few of the top 14 competitions that set the standard for taste in this country.  ¶  One wine stood out among all others in the 2006 wine competition season-the Kendall-Jackson 2004 Grand Reserve Chardonnay. The 2004 Grand Reserve Chardonnay was the top medal-winning Chardonnay of the year, taking home 12 awards out of a possible 14 and ranking above all other Chardonnays. The wine was not entered in two of those 14 competitions. You do the math.  ¶  As Kendall-Jackson transitions to the 2005 vintage of Grand Reserve Chardonnay, it is a good bet that the consistency of this Jackson Estates Grown Santa Barbara and Monterey County Chardonnay will catch the attention of a new crop of judges.

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JOSEPH PHELPS is pleased to announce the annual Phelps Preferred shipment of its flagship wines, one bottle each of the 2003 Insignia and 2003 Backus Vineyard Cabernet! Our members have been eagerly awaiting this shipment since the Phelps Preferred party in May.   This offer is available to members only, but for a limited time you can join Phelps Preferred and receive this as your first shipment. www.jpvwines.com

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SWAN'S NECK VODKA is the latest offering from my friend Bernard Portet, the pioneering owner/winemaker of CLOS DU VAL fame.  This limited release Alambic-distilled vodka is made from French grapes.   Bernard tells me, " I created the vodka with my winemaker's philosophy, aiming for the ultimate refinement:  balance, elegance, finesse, etc.   I want a product you can use to  prepare a great Martini as well as a vodka to sip on the rocks or chilled in a Cognac sniffer before or after dinner."   Bernard says the 2006 harvest is finished and that they are very pleased with it.   "Those long and slow ripening seasons ply right up the sleeve of our CLOS DU VAL winemaking style--reminding me of the 1975, 1979 and 1985 . . . . "   The vodka is produced in France at Louis Royer SAS distillery.  It is found at upscale restaurants and fine wine shops in selected markets in Original 80 proof and Lemon Zest 70 proof   varieties.  Grapes are made into wine, and then distilled using a column distillation process.  The liquid spirits are then distilled two additional times using French traditional copper Alambic pot stills, which shape the character of the spirits by opening-up and releasing the grape aromatics and flavor essences while softening the liquid spirits.  The result is an elegant, balanced, complex vodka.    Bernard describes Swan's Neck Original Vodka: Whether chilled or sipped over ice, this vodka has a very fragrant,  and enticing aroma of freshly fermented grapes, and a silky, elegant, balanced palate with a hint of chocolate flavors.   Swan's Neck Lemon Zest Vodka is beautifully fragrant of delicate lemony scents.  Very refreshing, it has charm and harmony with nice roundness and great finesse.  It is refined without showing the alcoholic flavors often typical of such products." www.swansneckvodka.com     ABOUT BERNARD PORTET: Portet belongs to a family whose tradition of winemaking dates to the 1700s.  He co-founded (1972) the award-winning Clos Du Val Winery, Napa Valley.  His first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon was one of only five California Cabernets selected for the legendary 1976 Paris Tasting.  Portet has received numerous awards, including the Chevalier du Merite Agricole awarded by the French government.  Today, Portet returns to France to pursue his passion for old-world distillation techniques to create Swan’s Neck Vodka, a limited, handcrafted spirit true to his winemaking style of balance, elegance and complexity.  

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WHOLE FOODS MARKET, the successful natural and organic products store, has introduced several new items for the holidays and after.  Spiceburst Saltbursts, Fire & Flavor Turkey Perfect Herb Brine Mix and Brine Bag, Mrs. Meyer's Clean Day Liquid Dish Soap and Oregon Chai Nog, Chai Tea Latte Concentrate.

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MANDOLA ESTATE WINERY in Driftwood, Texas, celebrated its opening.   Winery owners Damian and Trina Mandola and Drs. Stan and Lisa Duchman and Winemaker Mark Penna hosted guests for a winery tour and tasting to celebrate the event.   Modeled after wineries in Tuscany, the 20-acre Mandola vineyard is above Onion Creek southwest of Austin where Italian varietals (montepulciano, moscato, barbera, and sangiovese grapes) and temperatures approximate southern Italy.  Penna has 20 years experience in the Texas wine business, previously working for Llano Estacado, Cap*Rock in Lubbock, and Cordier Estates in Fort Stockton.   Damian Mandola has been active in the restaurant and catering business for more than 30 years.  “Our winery fulfills a life-long dream,” commented Damian Mandola.  “Selling our Carrabba’s restaurants to the Outback Steakhouse chain freed up time and resources to make this venture possible.  Trina and I are thrilled to have teamed up with Stan and Lisa to bring our love of Italian wines to others.”  Stan Duchman is a cardiologist, and his wife, Lisa Duchman, is an optometrist.  The Mandolas and the Duchmans were neighbors and friends in Houston, often cooking together and sharing each other’s favorite wines, which led to the Duchman-Mandola Partnership [Duchmandola, Ltd.], known as the Mandola Estate Winery.   “Being involved with the Mandolas has let us expand beyond the health and medical professions toward our passions,” said Stan Duchman. “We can’t think of a better way to enjoy life and work than in the beautiful Texas Hill Country.” For information: (512) 858-1470        

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THE WINE AND FOOD FOUNDATION OF TEXAS hosts the 4th Annual Big Reds & Bubbles at the Driskill Hotel, November 29 from 6:30 to 9:30pm with cuisine prepared by Austin's finest chefs.     BIG REDS: Nickel & Nickel Sullenger Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Nickel & Nickel Dyer Syrah 2004, Alexander Valley Vineyards Cyrus 2002, Alexander Valley Vineyards Syrah 2003, Cain Vineyard Concept 2003, Dutton Goldfield Cherry Ridge Syrah, Iron Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Archetype Vineyards Old Vine Shiraz Reserve, Beaulieu Vineyard Dulcet Reserve, Sterling Vineyards 3 Palms Merlot, Planeta Syrah 2003, Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 2001, Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, Castello Banfi Col di Sasso, Castello Banfi Chianti Classico R, Cecchi Sangioves di Toscana, Cecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvigon, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Merlot, Hawk Crest Cabernet Sauvignon, Artesa Carneros Estate Pinot Noir, Artesa Tempranillo, Artesa Napa Merlot, Kunde Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Robert Mondavi Tokalon Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, Robert Mondavi Carneros Pinot Noir, Ruffino Ducale Chainti Classico Riserva, Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame, J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon, J. Lohr Carol's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Boony Doon Le Cigare Volant, Laetitia Estate Pinot Noir, Murrieta’s Well Red Meritage, Sebastiani Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Sebastiani Secolo 2004, Bookwalter Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Goldschmidt Game Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon & Vyborny Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Clos Du Val Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon, Groth Cabernet Sauvignon, Robert Craig Affinity and Bodegas Caro Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec     BUBBLES: Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier, Champagne Deutz Brut Classic, Iron Horse Vineyards Blanc d'Blanc 1998, Castello Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto D'Acqui, Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Brut 1999, Bisol "Crede" Prosecco, Champagne Pommery Brut Royale, Champagne Pommery POP, Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Icewine, Taltarni Brut Tache, Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte Blancs d’Blancs and Gruet Blanc d’Blancs  CUISINE: Amuse Bouche Catering, Aquarelle, Cedar Grove Steakhouse, Dona Emilia’s, The Driskill Hotel, Finn & Porter, Hudson’s on the Bend, The Mansion at Judges’ Hill, Moonshine Patio Bar & Grill, Starlite, Tea Embassy, Wink.   Information: www.winefoodfoundation.org

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)

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KORBEL 2004 Russian River Natural is the latest sparkling wine release from Korbel.  Vice President Margie Healy says, "Many consider champagne the most difficult wine of all to produce.  The delicate, yet crisp fruit and natural sparkle of premium champagne demands meticulous care in the vineyard and at the winery.  Made in the classic, time-honored manner, the 2004 Korbel Natural is done right and  quality begins with Russian River Valley grapes.  The region’s cool coastal climate is perfect for champagne production.  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the traditional champagne grapes, develop distinctive character from the growing conditions in each vineyard.   Korbel draws grapes from 17 different vineyards to give the winemaker a superb selection for the blend (cuvée).  In the winery, whole cluster pressing, cold fermentation and minimal handling allow each vineyard lot are used. After the Natural cuvée is assembled, it goes into bottles for secondary fermentation, resting on the yeast for a full 18 months to gain sparkle and complexity.   Only then is it ready to be enjoyed at any and all celebrations.  Aromas and flavors are of green apple, lemon, grapefruit and lime, accented by subtle yeastiness in this virtually dry,  polished style, complemented by crisp acidity.  

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ROBERT CRAIG WINE CELLARS produces Cabernet Sauvignons that are consistently ranked among Napa Valley's top  wines.   Founded in 1992, Robert Craig makes wines from mountain and hillside vineyards in limited production:  Affinity, a Bordeaux-style Cabernet blend from the Valley foothills, and Cabernets from Mount Veeder and Howell Mountain Appellations. Each wine has a   distinctive character of the soils, climate, and varietal character of the growing region.   Bob Craig says, "Our terroir-based program makes structured and stylish, cellar-worthy Cabernets with individual characteristics.  Our style for the mountain Cabs emphasizes ripe fruit, supple tannins and early balance and integration.   Lynn and Bob Craig completed a fine, new winery in 2002 at nearly 2300 feet along the summit of Howell Mountain.  And while their Cabernets are praised highly and rated among the best 25 in Napa Valley, their  limited production of Amador County Zinfandel and Central Coasts Syrah will bring you great pleasure as well, but are available only to club members.  They offer their Zinfandel and Syrah in the tasting room.  www.robertcraigwine.com 

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L'ECOLE No. 41wines have made their way from Washington to my table, I am happy to report.  Owner/winemaker Marty Chubb is a transplanted Texan and I had the pleasure of visiting him several years ago.  French-Canadians established the schools in the early days of the territory and named the schools by number.  Marty's inlaws bought the old schoolhouse 41 and converted it to a winery.  The fetching label is the winning drawing of a child's interpretation of the schoolhouse.  Marty says, "Our family owned business was founded by Jean and Baker Ferguson.  Today, the winery is owned and operated by Megan, their daughter, and me, their son-in-law.    Built in 1915, the schoolhouse is located in historic Frenchtown, a small community just west of Walla Walla, Washington.  Frenchtown derived its name from the many French-Canadians who settled the valley during the early 1800s.  Legend has it, these men of French descent were raising grapes and producing wine.  By the 1860s, nurseries, vineyards and winemaking had become a part of the regions' growing economy.   The name - L'Ecole Nº 41-- French for "the school" located in district number 41 - was chosen to salute these pioneer viticulture efforts.   ¶   The winery is currently producing about 30,000 cases annually. Our Semillon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are all barrel aged, creating a significant demand for barrel storage. In the fall of 2003, we completed the construction of a new concrete tilt barrel storage facility that accommodates our current inventory of over 2,000 French and American oak barrels.   In the spring of 2004, we planted 1.3 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon next to the winery.  We are pleased to provide visitors the opportunity to observe a working vineyard. "

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LAKE SONOMA 2003 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $22 "is concentrated, full-bodied, and shows how vineyard and cellar decisions contribute to wine character," say Vice President Margie Healy.  Hillside vineyards in Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Sonoma Valley were the primary grape sources.  "Difficult to farm lower-yield, upland-hillside vineyards offer poor, thin soils, a long growing season and limited soil moisture, which contribute intense Cabernet Sauvignon character," Healy explains.   "This obvious boldness led to the decision to age the wine an unusually long 28 months in small oak barrels for smoothness and complexity.  The wine has aromas and flavors of blackberry and currant accented by cocoa and cedar, an array of spices in the background, integrated tannins and moderate acidity, enjoy this firm, structured Cabernet Sauvignon now or cellar."

LAKE SONOMA 2004 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel $18: Zinfandel, the fourth most-planted wine grape in California (51,000 acres), has the State's longest history of premium wine production.  This wine shows the popular grape at its delicious, flavorful best.  ¶  Zinfandel prefers poor, gravelly soils so Lake Sonoma restricts its sources to dry farmed vineyards throughout the growing season.  Zinfandel's narrow harvest window (bitter if picked too early, raisiny if picked too late) makes Lake Sonoma managers careful to harvest at optimal flavor maturity yet early enough to control its tendency toward high alcohol.   ¶  Aromas and flavors of blackberry and spearmint, generous berry fruit with subtle notes of spice and vanilla, a supple palate, smooth and silky through its elegant finish.   

VALLEY OF THE MOON 2004 Sangiovese, Sonoma Valley $16:   Despite high expectations, Sangiovese from California has not been an overnight success. The first modern Sangiovese vineyards were planted in the Golden State 25 years ago and some producers still struggle with this fickle grape. Valley of the Moon Winery's first Sangiovese was 1996 and the intervening years have brought steady progress. The 2004 Valley of the Moon Sangiovese is a fresh and fruity – yet complex – charmer. In its forward character and uncommon depth, it shows that – when it comes to Sangiovese – vine age begets beauty.   A selection of grapes from older vineyards with poor soils concentrates the character while the climates produced fruit with vibrant acidity.  The wine has aromas and flavors of boysenberries, red cherry and spice, vanilla and cinnamon with a zesty medium body and complexity.  

VALLEY OF THE MOON 2002 Cuvée de la Luna, Sonoma County $30:  Cabernet Sauvignon's greatest wines are most often blends because one grape grown in one place cannot deliver greatness consistently.  This wine illustrates the beauty of the blend: created from the winery’s best barrel lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it achieves uncommon fruit, depth, complexity and elegance in an alluring style.  Cabernet sauvignon provides black fruit and structure; merlot adds red fruit, herbaceousness and smoothness; cabernet franc enhances aromas, softness and balance; petit verdot contributes color, tannins and spice.  The 2002 Cuvée de la Luna has aromas and flavors reminiscent of blueberry cobbler, fresh boysenberry and currant fruit accented by vanilla and spice notes, black fruit flavors and velvety texture.   The generous fruit character and smooth, integrated tannins are complemented by beautifully balanced acidity, resulting in an elegant, lingering finish.

KENWOOD VINEYARDS offers two Merlots in two styles. Kenwood 2004 Merlot $17 and Kenwood 2003 Reserve Merlot $25 use premium Sonoma County grapes and age in small oak barrels.  Their difference is stylistic.  The 2004 Merlot is pure pleasure with merlmot grapes from Sonoma Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley and Carneros for ultimate blending flexibility.  Picked fully matured, fermented in stainless steel and aged 21 months in French and American oak, it offers berry character and supple texture to captivate all wine drinkers.   In contrast, the 2003 Kenwood Reserve Merlot showcases the serious side of merlot.  Kenwood’s very best Sonoma Valley merlot vineyards are picked at optimal ripeness, fermented in stainless steel and aged in small French oak barrels.  Barrel lots with the most intense, structured fruit are selected for the Reserve and given additional time in oak (a total of 27 months) for complexity to complement the wine’s power--big, bold and nuanced; a wine to savor and to age.  The medium-bodied 2004 KENWOOD Merlot has aromas of plum, raspberry and dried cranberry, with hints of pepper, and a light, silky, supple palate with fresh acidity to balance fruit character.  However, the 2003 KENWOOD Reserve Merlot has ripe, concentrated aromas and flavors of blueberry, French plum and cranberry accented by cinnamon nuances and some herbal complexity.  Viscosity and velvety tannins give the wine real weight, and moderate acidity allows the fruit to carry into the finish. 

KENWOOD VINEYARDS has two new Zinfandels.  Wines express the grape variety, vineyard, and vintage and these 2004 Kenwood Zinfandels come from one of the finest Zinfandel vintages in recent memory.  Both show the distinctive style of this fine year, even as each displays individual character true to its designation. ¶  KENWOOD 2004 Zinfandel Reserve $20 and the Sonoma County $16 proceeded without problems from the weather and grapes were harvested at peak maturity with forward fruit, provocative style and a plush, elegant texture.  ¶  Their individual character shows the Reserve to be more structured and complex with a powerful depth while the Sonoma County  wine shows a freshness with forward aromas of blueberry, boysenberry and pumpkin pie spices and a medium body.  ¶  "An opulent nose of blackberry and currant, accented by a hint of licorice, signals the 2004 KENWOOD Reserve Zinfandel is serious wine for serious savoring.  The mouthfilling flavors are dominated by just-picked blackberry, currant and fig, again with a subtle note of licorice in the background.  Integrated tannins complement the polished texture, while ample acidity intensifies the lingering finish. The 2004 Kenwood Vineyards Reserve Zinfandel $20 produced only 2,100 cases.

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KULETO ESTATE Family Vineyards is in Napa Valley.  I fell in love with these fine wines at first taste.  There is something really splendid about the way they are structured and integrated with pure fruit flavors.  Pat Kuleto’s winemaking venture began in 1992, when he  purchased an 800-acre ranch, east of Rutherford high in the hills above the Napa Valley. While building his home, Villa Cucina ("kitchen home"), in a rustic Tuscan villa style, Kuleto planted small patches of vineyard on the hillsides, where growing the highest quality winegrapes is possible. What began as a few acres of vines solely to make a home wine, grew quickly into a full-fledged vineyard.    Kuleto foudn 10% of the steep land to be perfectly suited to growing his favorite grape varieties. 1999 saw the ground-breaking for construction of Kuleto's new winery, just a few hundred yards from his home. It was completed in June 2003 and is open to private tours and tastings by appointment only. The Kuleto Estate Family Vineyards label currently produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Chardonnay.   Kuleto Estate Winery makes the finest, most abundantly flavorful wines possible from the estate-grown fruit. The wines are sold direct through the website or they can be enjoyed at select restaurants and fine specialty retailers.   For information: www.kuletoestate.com,  (707) 963-9750.

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YELLOWGLEN VINEYARDS in Australia has introduced two sparkling wines to the USA: YELLOWGLEN Pink and YELLOWGLEN Yellow.  YELLOWGLEN WINERY is named after a gold mine that once operated in the area.  These two non-vintage sparkling wines have enjoyed a 100% growth over the last three years with more than one million cases sold and a 19% volume share of the booming Australia sparkling wine market.  The wines are fresh, crisp and clean and the price is a kind one for this degree of enjoyment!

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PRETTY SALLY Vineyard, established in 1996, is in Central Victoria, Australia, and owned by Rosalie and Dan Cornew, Neil McKay and Marie and Jim Davies $22.   Rosalie Cornew and I had lunch to taste the wines and I was delighted by both the lady and the wines.  Rosalie and her husband come from a computer background and both have lived abroad and traveled extensively.  They became enthralled with the wine industry and wanted to produce the beautifully balanced wines that they preferred.   They discovered property in Australia that beckoned to them and invited some partners to join in their enterprise.  The case lots are small--from 450 for the Sauvignon Blanc (soon to be increased) to 2800 for the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon.   Keep looking, however, because they are well worth the search.  Central Markets in Texas have the wines and many fine restaurants across the country.   

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VIÑA SANTA CAROLINA Winemaker Sven Bruchfeld, a native Chilean,   brought his wines for us to taste together in my kitchen.  He is a graduate of UC Davis.  "Santa Carolina is among Chile's oldest continuously operating wineries and has a history of leadership that dates back to 1875," Sven explained.   "At that time, mining magnate Don Luis Pereira planted a vineyard near Santiago, commissioned a French enologist to bring vines from Bordeaux and had a French architect design a wine cellar--now a national monument.  In the 1990s the wines moved to a higher level and I was invited to join the company."  I am so glad he did.   Sven has a deft touch that is especially nice with the $10 bottles of Reserva.  It is always rewarding to find a delicious, reasonably priced Cabernet Sauvignon and the Sauvignon Blanc is equally as laudable.      

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MAISON LOUIS JADOT 2005 Beaujolais-Villages, France $12 is blended from grapes grown in Haut-Beaujolais' 39 approved villages.  Southern Burgundy is home to Beaujolais, credited with the best gamay noir à jus blanc grapes for this early drinking wine.  It has a floral fragrance and is crisp with fruit flavors some peppery notes and plumpish tannins.   Chill and enjoy the wine's lively freshness.

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RUFFINO suggests matching its wines with hamburgers, noting that while it seems American, the hamburger's origin is actually European.  German immigrants are credited with bringing "German steak" to America in the late 1880s.  It was a broiled patty of ground beef mixed with bread crumbs and topped with fried onions.   The bun was added at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair.  Ruffino recommends its Orvieto--a medium-bodied blend from Orvieto Classico DOC with aromas of white roses, green apples and bright acidity.

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DASHE wines come from the team effort of Anne and Michael Dashe (Mr. and Mrs.).  "We're a family-run artisan winery and we focus on crafting small allotments  of  Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Syrah wines.   , Dashe Cellars marries techniques from California and the great winemaking regions of France. The results are complex, sensuous red wines that capture the charm and personality of top Sonoma vineyards in the Dry Creek and Alexander valleys.

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KING ESTATE's Steve Thomson tells me that the owners are "committed to producing Oregon wines of exceptional quality, a character reflected in every bottle of our Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris wines."   Founded in 1991 by the King family, the winery is a multigenerational commitment.  As CEO, Ed King III is involved in daily operations.  The entire estate estate is certified organic with farming practices that consist of composting, cover crops, and natural cycles--creating a soil that is rich and vital and one that produces healthy vines with intensely concentrated, flavorful grapes.

CELLAR No. 8 suggests you pair some hearty dishes with its newest releases.

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BERINGER Founders' Estate has a selection of wines crafted for easy food pairings and some of the best  holiday produce.

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J. LOHR, my WINE OF THE MONTH for January  2004,  keeps making fabulous wines at reasonable prices.  I think I've recommended the Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon more than any other Cabernet Sauvignon.   Here comes another worthy one ready to make day really nice.  Jerry Lohr stays on the tractor in the vineyards watching every vine with his special eye while son Steve is busy with planning and development and daughter Cynthia directs the communications.   They are quite a team and together work wonders with the J. Lohr brand.   As I stated then, "J. LOHR wines have been well-made wines for decades.  Jerry Lohr was one of a handful of pioneers in the Central Coast who stayed convinced of the land's worth until his wines proved he was right.  Today J. LOHR VINEYARDS and WINES is well known for it highly successful Estates Series.  However, J. Lohr also offers a Vineyard Series and a Cuvée Series. 
    In the late 1960’s, Jerry Lohr investigated grape growing regions throughout California.  His farming background helped him understand and respect the importance of soil quality, climate and location.  This knowledge brought him to California’s Central Coast region and in the early 1970s he planted 280 acres of wine grapes in the Arroyo Seco appellation of Monterey County, and in 1974 completed his winery in San Jose.  Additional land purchases brought total acreage to 2,000, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other red varietals and an adjacent winery and barrel facility was built.   Vineyard expansion (1988) in the Arroyo Seco now includes 900 acres of Chardonnay and other cool climate varietals such as Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Valdiguié.
      J. Lohr Estates - a line of extraordinary quality, estate-produced varietals from Monterey County and Paso Robles. All aspects are controlled  from viticulture to bottling to ensure “flavor second to none.” J. Lohr Estates includes the Riverstone Chardonnay,  Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon, South Ridge Syrah, Bay Mist White Riesling, Wildflower Valdiguié, Los Osos Merlot and Bramblewood Zinfandel.

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KENDALL-JACKSON has released the newest edition of its popular Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay.  This wine has consistently been the number one selling Chardonnay nationwide: This year is its 16th for that honor.   KENDALL-JACKSON 2005 Jackson Estate Grown Chardonnay, Vintner's Reserve, California is $12.   Winemaker Randy Ullman says, "It has tropical flavors such as mango and pineapple that dance with aromas of peach, apple and pear.  Richly layered and balanced throughout.  Lightly buttered toast headlines the indulgent, lingering finish. "  

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E. & J. GALLO has released a number of wines from its various properties.  WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY reported that E. and J. Gallo was the largest wine company in the USA in 2004 with 75,000,000 cases sold annually in the U.S.   It is such an American success story and I just love it.  The brothers went to the library in the early 1930s to read pamphlets on how to make wine.  Some of the wineries owned by the Gallo Fanily Vineyards today were some of the first grape growers that the brothers bought grapes from 75 years ago.   Part of the GALLO portfolio includes FREI BROTHERS; RANCHO ZABACO; LOUIS M. MARTINI; MacMURRAY RANCH; McWILLIAMS; MIRASSOU; REDWOOD CREEK and GALLO FAMILY VINEYARDS.   Together these producers represent myriad styles and prices to please any number of palates.

RAYMOND has released three new wines from two tiers of its portfolio. 

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VERAMONTE has latest releases of red and white wines from Chile.   Veramonte reports that there have been great strides forward in viticulture in Chile over the last 10-15 years and these wines reflect them.

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ALPHA DOMUS 2002 The Navigator, New Zealand, blends 43% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc and  10% Malbec ($28) to craft a wine in the Bordeaux style. The Navigator blend is dark purple red with aromas of  plums and blackberries. Richly concentrated, with integrated notes of leather, dates and dried fruits, firm tannins that make a complex, robust wine.   Alpha Domus was established in 1991 to produce premium wines from an immaculate 20-hectare vineyard on the western Heretaunga Plains near of Hawke’s Bay. The alluvial soils characteristic of this area combined with low rainfall and high summer temperatures provides ideal growing conditions for high quality fruit. Careful viticultural management aimed at low crop yields further enhances the ripeness and varietal flavors. 
The entire operation was founded on the vision of the five members of the Ham family. Ton (Anthonius) and Lea Ham emigrated to New Zealand in the early 1960’s and in partnership with sons Paul, Henry and Anthony decided to develop a premium wine project in the late1980’s. The name Alpha Domus represents how the venture came into being. Alpha represents the Ham family as it is a grouping of each family member’s first initial. And Domus is the Latin word for house or home.

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LINDEMANS has a new South African property in Robertson Valley.   These new "country-of-origin" wines, $8 each, have been introduced into the United States.  Wines are sourced from premium vineyards throughout Robertson Valley, dubbed 'valley of vines and roses,'  and well known for its lime-rich soils, high quality fruit, distinct flavor profiles and almost perfect Mediterranean climate.

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TOLOSA 2005 Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Edna Valley $18 is a terrific wine.   Multi-layered flavors that are seamless and integrated and just keep on giving splendid flavors in smooth, crisp tastes.  I highly recommend this wine.

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SARAH JANE VISITS PORTUGUESE CORK FORESTS AND AMORIM CORK PRODUCER: My respect for cork soared into the stratosphere after seeing Amorim's factories in Portugal.   The amount of work devoted to making the best natural wine closures possible is astounding.    There are mulitple causes and various odors that describe a flawed wine.  Unfortunately, corks often are erroneously blamed for these flaws and wine drinkers could stop the misidentification by calling the wine tainted, not corked--but more later.     Cork trees (Quercus suber) are first harvested at 25 years of age; however, they must be 40 years old to use the renewable bark for high quality wine closures.  The bark is pryed off the trees, stacked to be sorted and graded, loaded on trucks to transport to the processing facility where it ages on outside concrete floors.  During this time the various stacks are graded again for quality and sorted accordingly.  Those stacks selected are moved inside the facility to be washed in a hot bath to be cleaned and then dry for three days.   The stacks are sorted again and sent to various stations inside the building for inspection and selection.  Then the lots are moved to another facility for production.      AMORIM, CORK STORY:    Natural cork is environmentally friendly, biodegrades either completely or without any significant secondary waste.   It can be recycled into gaskets, floor tiles, sports equipment and other products.  Cork oak forests are sustainable and in about nine years after a harvest, the trees grow another crop (first harvest at 25 years old).  For use as a wine cork, the trees must be 40 years old.  Trees live between 170 to 250 years.  Portugal produces 54% of the world’s cork and 90% of the wine closures, employing 15,000 people. ¶  Amorim Chairman Antonio Amorim, a graduate of Columbia University’s Graduate School of Business USA, tells me that a cork closure for wine is one of the most natural products used in modern consumer society. “Made entirely from cork-oak bark, cork closures are devoid of synthetic additives,” he says.  “In terms of naturalness, there are few parallels in the manufacturing world--only wool and cotton come close as natural products.  Cork has been used for thousands of years, but its most widespread application came as a wine closure--a use that began in the 1600s and grew with the spread of mass-produced glass bottles."    Cork's unique physical and chemical properties make it remarkable: lightness, impermeability, resistance to wear, rot and temperature extremes and, its renowned compressibility.          The secret is the cell structure, which technology has not replicated.   Cork consists of a honeycomb of tiny impermeable cells made from suberin, a complex fatty acid that is filled with an air-like gas. There are about 40 million cells per cubic centimeter of cork or around 800 million cells in a single wine cork.  This structure makes cork easy to compress and less liable to damage from corking machines.  Amazingly, the cork is capable of being compressed to about half its width without losing any flexibility and it is the only solid that can be compressed in one dimension without increasing in another dimension.

       And, as a renewable resource, cork increasingly has significance as an environmentally friendly product.   I became aware of just how determinedly intense Amorim is about the quality of its corks on my visit to Portugal. If only all cork producers were as equally precise.  From stripping the bark off the cork tree to punching a cork out of it, there are innumerable processes and seemingly endless quality control checks.

SEASONING and SORTING: Following harvest, the cork bark is seasoned by being stacked by lots to age on concrete in the factory yard.  Each consignment is tagged and recorded, so that an individual cork can be traced back to its source in the forest for quality assurance.  Then the planks are sorted to select high-quality bark suitable for wine closures.  Lower grades of cork are used in other products such as insulation sheeting and floor tiles.

BOILING and CLEANING: Corkwood is boiled to remove organic solids in the bark and to make cork more pliable.   Amorim's planks are boiled in closed steel tanks fitted with a volatile compound trap (Convex process) that continuously extracts volatile organics such as trichloroanisole (TCA evaporates) from the wash water.   In the new system planks are boiled in smaller, 2-tonne batches to improve circulation and boost contaminant extraction.  Non-chlorinated wash water pumped through the tank is filtered every 20 minutes to remove suspended solids.  Test results show significantly reduced contaminants and clean corkwood.   

DRYING and GRADING: Once boiled, the planks are stacked to dry and stabilize in a well-ventilated environment with controlled humidity.  The correct moisture content is needed to maximize the cork's compressibility and elasticity during processing. The planks are then graded according to thickness, porosity and appearance. 

SORTING, SLICING, PUNCHING, GRADING: After the cork planks have reached the correct moisture content, they are sorted again, sliced into strips slightly wider than the final cork length. Cork punching is done by machine or hand.  Mechanized punching is faster but hand punching results in a more consistent quality because a skilled worker can choose the sections in the cork strip with the fewest defects.  A machine photographs and classifies each cork by quality into categories.  The categories correspond to the number of visible defects in the body of the cork and those with the most are used for lower-grade products.

POLISHING, STERLIZATION, DRYING: Corks are polished to the required length and evenness by an abrasive stone and then washed in a hydrogen peroxide solution for sterilization and to eliminate microorganisms.  Increasingly, wash water is pre-treated with ozone to destroy contaminants.  After washing, the corks are dried in ovens or with sterilized air to the correct moisture content. 

SORT, GRADE, BRAND, STABILIZE, COAT, PACK: After drying, corks are sorted and graded again, this time by hand to the customer's specifications; then, if required, they are identified with the mark or logo of the customer.  Corks are stored in ozone gas for three days to protect against molds and then a thin film of paraffin wax and silicone or resin is applied to make it easier to insert into the wine bottle.  Finally, batches of corks are packed in polyethylene with sulfur dioxide gas, a widely used preservative in the wine industry, and sealed for storage and shipping around the world.

    Cork manufacturing, a major industry in Portugal, has been transformed by technology and strict quality controls.  Amorim operates one of the largest R&D programs in the cork industry, investing heavily in scientific research, laboratory testing, modernized processes and innovation. The company spends $6 million (US) a year for R&D and millions more annually on factory equipment and product and process improvements.  ¶   Amorim has the resources and commitment to meet the requirements of the modern wine industry.   In 1999, it established a central R&D department – separate from its quality assurance and materials testing laboratories – and staffed by research chemists, microbiologists, oenologists and sensory analysts. The department is headed by Prof. Miguel Cabral.  ¶  Amorim's number one research priority is the elimination of trichloroanisole (TCA) from wine corks. The principal cause of musty taints in bottled wine, TCA is a non-hazardous trace contaminant in cork that at very low concentrations may dull the aroma and taste of wine and at higher concentrations render the wine undrinkable.  In tackling TCA, Amorim's approach is a combination of prevention and cure, avoiding or attacking the sources of the contaminant at every point in the production process.   In recent reports, "the scale of problems affecting wines sealed with screwcaps have probably been underestimated," according to data released following this year's International Wine Challenge.  Judges found that faults caused by screwcaps are almost as common as cork taint; that is, judges found that of the total number of recorded tastes of wine, 2.2 percent showed high sulphide faults related to screwcaps--creating egg and vegetal flavors--compared with 2.8 percent for taint related to cork. . . It was the first timein the competition's history that faults had been classified in this way.  Overall, the failure rate was a shade over 7 percent.     

BOOK REVIEW: The Way to Make Wine, by Sheridan Warrick --  "An essential reference that takes you step-by-step through techniques used by professionals to create quality small-lot wines.  A book like this one would have been a huge help for me when I first started making wine!  It is both easy to read and serious enough so that the reader doesn't feel talked down to as an amateur and gives a much needed guide to the basics of modern winemaking," says Michael Dashe, owner and winemaker, Dashe Cellars.    Written by a vintner and science editor with 25 years of experience, The Way to Make Wine is the most readable and reliable handbook among the many winemaking guides.  In engaging conversational prose, Warrick shows that making your own wine is not only easy, but also fun.  Geared to everyday wine lovers who want to drink well, save money, and impress their friends, this book reveals everything needed to make delicious wines--reds and whites--from start to finish.   Warrick demystifies winemaking by explaining the nuts and bolts and demonstrating that if readers can replace a faucet washer or cook a pasta sauce, they can make food-friendly wines that cost less than the bottle they're now opening.  He enables amateur vintners to equip a home winery, procure top-quality grapes, run a flawless fermentation, and enjoy their wine with renewed awareness and appreciation.  Warrick also gives experienced home vintners new skills, insiders' know-how, describes top techniques and advances that have made in the past few decades.  With straightforward illustrations of key steps, this book offers one-stop shopping for anyone who has ever dreamed of making table wines at home.

CALIFORNIA-STYLE WINE COUNTRY RESTAURANTS & FARMERS’ MARKETS: A Regional Focus on Enjoying the Artisan Food Trend with Local California Wines:  The popularity of California wine, fresh produce and regional cuisine continues to expand worldwide and one of the best ways for travelers to discover it is to visit California’s wine country.  Local restaurants focus on pairing regional wines with natural, farm-grown ingredients, often sourced from community farmers’ markets.  These markets reflect the abundance of produce in California, America’s top agricultural state, which produces 350 plant and animal commodities.  The more than 400 certified California farmers’ markets are often in the wine regions.  A complete listing is available at http://www.cafarmersmarkets.com.  Mirroring California wineries, the farmers’ markets have continued to grow in popularity for three decades.  Professional chefs shop alongside domestic consumers, looking for field-ripened fruits and vegetables, fragrant flowers, fresh fish, artisan breads and pastries, plus delicacies such as local olive oils and cheeses.   California wine began being sold at qualified California Certified Farmers’ Markets in 2000.   ¶   Restaurants and consumers alike are aware that more flavorful dishes can be created with heirloom vegetables and products grown, raised or harvested with the same care that is put into their preparation.  Food from local sources also travels from the farm to the plate in a timely manner.   The freshness of the ingredients becomes part of the feature of the dish and supports the sustainable concept of “green dining” in that less fossil fuel is used to transport products from the farm to the kitchen.  ¶       Illustrating the allure of California’s wine country and cuisine, five regional winery associations highlight popular restaurants and farmers’ markets to visit within their locales. These attractions traverse California’s wine and agricultural regions, from Central California’s Paso Robles, north to Monterey and Santa Cruz counties, and beyond San Francisco to Lodi and Sonoma County.   ¶     LODI:   Located within the Delta area east of San Francisco, Lodi has been a major winegrowing region since the 1850s. From wine and cherries to nuts and asparagus, Lodi is part of the San Joaquin Valley, the garden basket of California.   The 18-week Thursday night farmers’ market hosted in downtown Lodi is not just for residents. Visitors and locals alike find locally grown, fresh produce, fruits, flowers and herbs at the Lodi farmers’ market.  School Street Bistro is known for being a local vintner hotspot. Winemakers catch up with friends and relatives over a glass of wine before heading to the market to pick up their supply of produce.   The chef at Wine & Roses Restaurant on the property of the historic Wine & Roses Inn prepares fresh seasonal cuisine highlighting the abundant agriculture of the Lodi region.       Another legend in Lodi, celebrating 50 years of producing seasonal fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers, is Phillips Farm; a staple for quality locally grown fresh fruits and vegetables. Many first-time visitors are drawn to the farm stand for the café or the wine but return time and time again for the pie, made fresh in the café from fruit grown on the farm!  ¶     MONTEREY COUNTY:  From five-star restaurants to award-winning wines, Monterey County is a gourmet food lovers' paradise.  Endowed with the seafood bounty of the Monterey Bay, a cornucopia of fresh fruits and vegetables from the Salinas Valley, and the fine wines that flow from vineyards throughout the region, local chefs craft culinary masterpieces not easily forgotten.  Wine-themed nights occur at several restaurants throughout the county.   Tarpy’s Roadhouse celebrates “Wine-Down Wednesdays,” Montrio hosts Half-Price wine nights each Sunday, and the Rio Grill adds a $5 glass of a nightly wine feature onto the meal every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. The Sardine Factory’s wine list, featuring over 30,000 bottles, has received ongoing recognition and shouldn’t be missed.  Christopher’s Restaurant in Carmel is a must-stop for anyone wanting to explore Monterey County wines.    Fresh agricultural and other  products of the area can be found at numerous farmers’ markets held weekly throughout the county.  Old Monterey Marketplace is the place for Certified Farmer’s Market as each Tuesday afternoon and the Monterey Peninsula College’s lower parking lot also sells fresh produce and flowers each Thursday afternoon.  A weekend market that features 60 vendors is available in Salinas every Saturday from June through mid-November.   ¶      PASO ROBLES:    A trip to Paso Robles Wine Country would not be complete without tasting the culinary expertise in the region, where the best of California cuisine is paired with local Paso Robles wines.   Bistro Laurent, Paris Dining with Andre and Panolivo restaurants feature a French influence in their menu offerings.  California and Mediterranean inspired cuisine distinguishes Villa Creek, Matthews at the Airport, McPhees and Odyssey World Café.  For those who love Italian-inspired foods, there is Buona Tavola. Deborah’s Dining Room at Justin Winery is open nightly.   Paso Robles chefs are dedicated to using local, fresh ingredients and source many items at farmer’s markets or from local, organic farms.  Some chefs even use by-products from the vineyards and wineries to create marinades and smoked meats.  From the vineyards to wineries and into the kitchens, Paso Robles is focused on sustainable programs to bring fresh, local foods and wines to residents and guests of this thriving community.             A Certified Farmers’ Markets in the Paso Robles downtown city park fosters this rural connection on Tuesdays and Saturdays.  A small, 50-acre organic family farm east of Paso Robles, Windrose Farm hosts a farm stand that gives guests the chance to hand pick veggies and fruits.   ¶     SANTA CRUZ COUNTY:   In the Santa Cruz Mountains, high quality wine, local produce, farmers’ markets and exceptional cuisine combine for an extraordinary culinary experience.   Many restaurants follow “Buy Fresh, Buy Local” as part of their wizardry, including Theo’s, in Soquel; Michaels on Main, in Soquel; Manressa, in Los Gatos; and Sent Sovi in Saratoga.  Michael’s on Main incorporates organic produce from local farms into their menu and even their desserts!   Sent Sovi in Saratoga is another well-known supporter of the farming community. “We use as many local products as possible.  I try to source as much as I can from within 100 miles or so of the restaurant.  There is a farmer in Sonoma who sends me ducks by UPS.  Another just grows tomatoes during the summer.  I want to bring that quality and passion to the table, along with a focus on local and smaller wineries. They go hand in hand,” said owner Josiah Sloan.   Manressa Restaurant focuses on locally grown products, and finds a nice fit pairing them with regional wines. “Some of the finest wines produced in the Santa Cruz Mountains grace the tables at Manresa,” says chef David Kinch. “We are fortunate to have such a vital winegrowing region right in our own backyard.”   Growers sell their products at Certified Farmer’s Markets in Santa Cruz and nearby in Aptos, Felton and Watsonville almost every day of the week. The central market in downtown Santa Cruz, at Lincoln and Cedar Streets, is held every Wednesday.       SONOMA COUNTY:  Sonoma County is a dining paradise.  It’s not only a premium winegrowing region, but also a prime diverse agricultural region, with artisan cheese makers, an array of small farmers and locally raised meats.  The county’s restaurants feature the bounty of the region with fresh, local and often organic offerings.  Sonoma lamb, salmon from Bodega Bay, and Petaluma duck appear on many restaurant menus, while dessert might feature succulent in-season peaches from Dry Creek Peach and Produce.  For elegant upscale dining, restaurants such as Cyrus and Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, and Farmhouse Inn in Forestville, rival any in the country. Casual yet refined independent restaurants abound, with gems such as Zin, Ravenous, Manzanita, Ralph’s Bistro and Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar within walking distance of Healdsburg’s town square.  Sonoma offers Deuce, The Girl & the Fig, The General’s Daughter, Carneros Bistro, and La Sallette, among many others, while prime Santa Rosa offerings include Zazu, Syrah and Willi’s Wine Bar.   For Sonoma County farmers’ markets, visit ttp://www.sonomacountry.com/visitors_ttd_orchards_dir.aspx        Visit http://californiawinemonth.com to learn more about what’s happening in California wine country.

CALIFORNIA WINE FAMILIES - THE NEXT GENERATION, Wine Institute report: Family-owned businesses account for more than 90 percent of U.S. businesses, responsible for half of the country’s gross domestic product and about three-quarters of America’s new jobs.  Most of California’s 2,000 wineries are also owned by families.  Their major economic impact is $45.4 billion on California’s economy.  Here is a brief sketch of some wine families from Sonoma, Santa Cruz, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Monterey, Lodi and Amador wine regions.  ¶  SONOMA COUNTY: Sonoma County's wine history documents the first grapes planted in 1812 at Fort Ross, and California’s oldest premium winery, Buena Vista, founded in 1857.   Sonoma's multi-generational family wineries include Foppiano Vineyards, founded in 1896, where fourth-generation winegrower Louis Foppiano continues the family tradition. Gallo Family Vineyards, one of the most recognizable names in the wine world, is at the forefront of the sustainable agriculture movement under the guidance of third-generation family members Matt Gallo and Gina Gallo.  Another sustainability farming leader, Seghesio Family Vineyards, is under fourth-generation winegrower Ted Seghesio. In the Sonoma Valley, Mike and Mary Benziger first discovered the 85-acre Glen Ellen property that would give Benziger Family Winery a home in 1980.  Today, two generations involving more than two dozen Benzigers are affiliated with the estate winery.  SANTA CRUZ COUNTY: Bargetto’s Santa Cruz Winery heritage began when brothers Phillip and John Bargetto emigrated from Italy's Piedmont region and continued with John’s son Lawrence during the 1960’s and 1970’s.   Bargetto third-generation family members now direct the winery operations.  ¶  Founded by Bill and Brenda Murphy in 1992, Clos LaChance in Saratoga has grown from its backyard “roots” into a 60,000 case per year wine business.  Over the years the Murphy’s daughters, Cheryl Murphy Durzy and Kristin Murphy, have joined the business.  ¶  Founding winemaker George Cooper of Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards in Saratoga planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon in 1972 with his nephew Jan Garrod.   In the ensuing 22 years, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc were added on lands farmed by the family since 1893.   Spring of 1994 heralded the first commercial release for Cooper-Garrod, and in 1996, son Bill joined his father in winemaking.  ¶  SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY: The Niven family now has its third generation in the industry, growing winegrapes since the 1960s for their Baileyana Winery and Edna Valley Vineyard in San Luis Obispo.  The Niven’s have a new brand, Tangent, which focuses solely on alternative white wines, one of the first brands to do so.  ¶   To experience another family run and operated winery, stop by Kynsi Winery in Arroyo Grande where Don and Gwen Othman have had their hands in the wine industry for over 25 years. Two daughters run the tasting room which is located in a renovated 1940’s dairy.  ¶  At Ortman Family Vineyards, Dad Chuck Ortman has been making wine for over 20 years in San Luis Obispo County and has recently started winemaking with his son Matt Ortman. They specialize in limited production Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Sangiovese. ¶  PASO ROBLES: Working hand-in-hand with their families, the next generation is already making an impression on the growing Paso Robles wine industry.  At J. Lohr Vineyards and Winery, the second generation– Steve, Cynthia and Lawrence – work in vineyard development, sales and marketing.  Steve Lohr is spearheading winery expansion both in Paso Robles and in Monterey.  At Peachy Canyon, both sons, Josh and Jake are active in winemaking and sales roles.  At Steinbeck Vineyards, three generations actively work with the vineyard—father Howie, daughter Cynthia and grandson Ryan.  Austin Hope is another example of the second generation leading the winemaking and overseeing all aspects of the business at Treana and Austin Hope wineries.  Jason Hass at Tablas Creek serves as General Manager, learning from his father.   ¶  MONTEREY: In Monterey County, the next generations of Wente, Scheid, and Smith families are all carrying on the traditions of their pioneer parents.   Wente Vineyards is California’s oldest continuously family owned and operated winery.  Established in 1883 by C.H. Wente, the fourth and fifth generations of the Wente family are actively involved in vineyard and winery operations.  Karl Wente, great-great-grandson of the founder, is the winemaker, and his sister, Christine Wente, is in charge of marketing.  ¶  Al Scheid had a wonderful vision for the Monterey wine industry when he co-founded Scheid Vineyards in 1972.   Today, his children are carrying through on that vision to be one of the largest independent growers of premium wine grapes.  Scott Scheid serves as President and CEO and Heidi Scheid is the Senior Vice president.  At Paraiso Vineyards, the founding vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation, winegrower Rich Smith is working side-by-side with son Jason.  “After 40 years of living and working on this ‘heavenly’ spot, it’s gratifying to see my children taking over – Jason is a very talented vineyard manager, committed to the high quality, ‘sustainable’ Paraiso ideal.”  ¶   LODI: Many of Lodi’s winegrowing families have been in the area for over 100 years and have sparked a transition. Fifth and sixth generation winegrowers like the Phillips family, the Mettler family and the Lange family are integrating creating their own brands and building recognition for Lodi Wine Country as a producer of fine wines.  Children returning after college are entering the family business in viticulture, enology and business management positions.   ¶  AMADOR COUNTY: Prospering for 30 years in the California wine business crafting organically grown wines in an off-the-beaten-path wine region spells huge commitment.  In 1977, Leon and Shirley Sobon brought their six children to Amador County’s Shenandoah Valley to establish Shenandoah Vineyards. The family acquired the historic D’Agostini Winery and renamed it Sobon Estate. In 1989, they were among the first in California to embrace organic grape growing, and their 160 acres of estate vines are now certified organic.  Today, Leon and Shirley’s children carry on the family tradition.

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THE GREENING OF CALIFORNNIA WINE COUNTRY: Regional Wine Associations Share Local Sustainable Winegrowing --  Being good neighbors and stewards of the land are important values in the wine community.  A healthy,  beautiful environment benefits everyone.  Vintners and their employees benefit as well because most live near their wineries.   Earth-friendly methods also produce high quality winegrapes and leave a legacy for future generations.  Building on these trends, California’s vintners and winegrowers introduced the statewide Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices in 2002 – a best management practices guide and self-evaluation tool that covers all aspects of winegrape growing and winemaking.   The Code includes methods for reducing water and energy use, minimizing pesticide use, building healthy soil, protecting air and water quality, recycling natural resources, maintaining surrounding habitat, providing employee education, communicating with neighbors about vineyard and winery operations, and more.   Several thousand vintners and growers have participated in educational workshops throughout the state, and more than 1,300 workshop attendees have evaluated their operations through the program to expand their sustainable winegrowing practices.  The effort is the first time an entire industry sector has scientifically documented their level of sustainability.  The results are published in the 2004 California Wine Community Sustainability Report at: http://www.sustainablewinegrowing.org/reports/index.html.   Nothing illustrates the California wine community’s commitment to being a global leader in sustainability better than the many on-the-ground examples from the state’s diverse winegrowing regions. 

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ICON REPORTS HARVEST UPDATES September 18, 2006 FROM WINEMAKERS:
Franciscan Oakville Estate – by Janet Myers, Winemaker
The first week of September had cool mornings and a marine layer covering much of Carneros and the Valley floor, with delayed sunshine until 11 a.m.  Cooler temperatures slowed maturation in chardonnay at Larsen Carneros vineyard, and the Bordeaux varietials at the Oakville estate.  Chardonnay and red grapes are showing 21-22° Brix.  But even at these low sugar levels, chardonnay has advanced flavors--agreat indicator.  Fruit from younger cabernet sauvignon vines in Oakville and the first merlot may be ready in a couple of weeks. Chardonnay grapes are first expected from Franciscan Oakville Estate, around the 20th.  The weather forecast is for very cool temps through the 16th, then warming to good ripening conditions for next week.
Robert Mondavi Winery – by Genevieve Janssens, Winemaker
We love this weather. We can walk and taste in the vineyards, picking on flavor with no pressure.  The clusters are handling extremely well as we harvest. We do have an eye on the combination of low humidity and cool temperature, which can stress the grapes, but so far harvest is going beautifully.  The Sauvignon Blanc is 90% in, and we started picking Semillion last week. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are on the schedule for this week, with Merlot and Malbec about 10-14 days away and Cabernet Sauvignon from around the Napa Valley and from our To Kalon Vineyard most likely not harvesting until the end of September.
Mount Veeder Winery – by Janet Myers, Winemaker
The Mount Veeder ranches have enjoyed many sunny mornings. At the higher elevations the vines stay above the low clouds and have been maturing at a little faster pace. We are seeing the reds in the Rosenquist ranch at Mount Veeder ahead slightly in ripeness and the Malbec is starting to show its trademark juicy, blueberry character, delicious even at 23 Brix. The first picking of Cabernet Sauvignon is still a few weeks out but the fruit is looking good.
Simi Winery – by Steve Reeder, Winemaker
We started crushing estate grapes September 7th with Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc-- clusters had 23.3 Brix and tons of flavor.  Our 2nd week of harvest brought our first load of Sonoma County chardonnay.  We're developing the flavors we want at lower Brix levels.  Simi picks based on flavor, not sugar or acid numbers.   Developing those flavors in very dry, hot years usually requires higher Brix.  Long, cool  seasons allow flavors to develop more in line with the rise in Brix.  The perfect year is balanced.  So far, 2006 is in balance. So we are off to the races with harvest but delayed  7 to 10 days from what used to be normal.  The outlook is more cool weather with most of our Russian River chardonnay in the low 20’s.  A little fruit dropping and opening the canopy with more leaf removal will really help us get through the cool period.
Columbia Winery
Harvest has finally begun! On Thursday, September 13th we brought in our first load of fruit which was Merlot from the Red Willow Vineyard. More harvesting in the next week and more updates coming soon.
Estancia – by Robert Cook, Winemaker
Harvest if officially here! Pinot Grigio grapes are coming in bright and juicy:  Pinot Noir and Merlot too.   Our first night harvest of Pinot Noir from Stonewall Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, allows cool fruit to go directly to cold fermentation.   The grapes are extremely well-balanced.  Cooler-than-normal nights in Monterey and Paso Robles allow grapes to ripen more fully.  Paso Robles' acclaimed temperature swings this past week had low 100 degrees F. during the day and low 40’s at night.  These sought-after temperature swings allow us to begin picking from our Keyes Canyon Vineyard near the end of next week.
Ruffino Tuscan Estates
Harvest is going well with ideal Tuscany weather --lots of sunshine and good water reserves.  After a wetter and cooler August, summer returned in September--two weeks of warm sunshine.   White grape harvest began the last of August and now the reds.  Grapes are very healthy with good sugar and balance.  Sangiovese remains for harvesting, which matures later than merlot.  Harvest will continue through the first few weeks of October.  This vintage introduces our first “pressure” tanks--stainless steel tanks that use light pressure during fermentation to alter the atmosphere within the tanks.  Instead of forming a cap on top, the grapes skins float around in the must which helps extraction become 100% natural and efficient.

HARVEST UPDATE:  California winemakers are excited about the fruit they've harvested.  Three California wine-growing regions–Napa, Sonoma and Monterey give updates.
Franciscan Oakville Estate – by Janet Myers, Winemaker
The first Oakville Merlot shows berry size is smaller than 2005 which bodes well for color and concentration.  The beautiful weather allowed the Merlot and other red varieties extra ripening time.
Robert Mondavi Winery – by Genevieve Janssens, Winemaker
Chardonnay grapes have beautiful weight and fruitiness.  It’s going to be a great year for merlot--exceptional color, and the fruit is delicious with zero dehydration, dark and tasty!   
Mount Veeder Winery – by Janet Myers, Winemaker
We just brought in a small amount of malbec and merlot from the mountain and are excited about the fruit.
Simi Winery – by Steve Reeder, Winemaker
We've finished sauvignon blanc and aromatic whites such as viognier and all flavors look very good. We have very good physiological maturity and ripeness with good balance of Brix, TA and pH, so we’re pretty excited about what we’re seeing so far.
75% of merlot is done, also pinot noir, sangiovese and most zinfandel. We’ve just started with Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties hanging on the vines and they look fantastic and we're very excited about potential for later ripening reds. Overall, we’re very pleased with the pace of the harvest and the quality of fruit coming in.
Estancia – by Robert Cook, Winemaker
Estancia's harvest is moving along wonderfully with the last of the pinot noir from our Pinnacles Vineyard: we finished with pinot grigio last week. Ripe, juicy cabernet sauvignon and syrah are coming to the winery from our Keyes Canyon Vineyard in Paso Robles and all look good.

© 2006 Sarah Jane English
Sarah Jane: sarahjaneenglish@sbcglobal.net
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