The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  78th Edition
August 5, 2006

TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $Best Buy

• STERLING 2005 Vintner's Selection Pinto Grigio, Central Coast $11$Best Buy (I really liked this wine a lot!!)
• FALL CREEK 2003 Meritus Texas Hill Country Red Wine (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 1% petit verdot $30
• KUMALA 2004 Chardonnay, South Africa $8 $Best Buy
• VERAMONTE 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Chile $8 $Best Buy
• PRIMUS 2003 Red Wine, (43% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Carmenère) Casablanca Valley, Chile $16
• COUSINA-MACUL 2001 Finis Terrae, Red Wine, Maipo Valley, Chile $20
• MADRONA 2002 Malbec, El Dorado, California $27
• Bodegas Julien Chivite GRAN FEUDO  2005 Rosé, Navarra, Spain $12
• TRUCHARD 2001 Cabernet Franc, Carneros, Napa Valley $28
• AURA 2004 Verdejo, Rueda, Spain $18
• MICHEL REDDE 2003 Sancerre, Loire, France $22
• THOMAS FOGARTY 2004 Gewürztraminer, Monterey $17
• JEKEL 2005 Gewürztraminer, Monterey $10 $Best Buy
• ECHELON 2004 Pinot Grigio, Clarksburg, California $10 $Best Buy
• KENWOOD 2005 Pinot noir, Russian River Valley $15
• GUENOC 2001 Petite Sirah, North Coast $18
• LOLONIS 2002 Ladybug Red, Old Vines, Redwood Valley $14
• CHATEAU d'AQUERIA  2004 Tavel Rosé, France $16

WINE WORTH THE SEARCH: These two wines are very limited and well worth the search: DUTTON-GOLDFIELD 2002 McDougall Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast has grapes grown by Mac, Barbara and Rich McDougall amid the vistas of the Pacific Ocean and Gualala River from its mountain top perch.  Eleven barrels were produced from the 2002 vintage.  It is extraordinary!  And, CAIN MUSQUE 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Ventana Vineyard, Arroyo Seco--Alas, this is the last bottle Chris Howell will produce of this wine (fortunately you'll be able to enjoy all his other wines).  Don't miss the enchanting pleasures in this finale bottle. 
 

WINERY OF THE MONTH Celebrates the Wagner family of winemakers--Chuck Wagner and his sons Charlie Wagner II and Joseph Wagner: CAYMUS, BELLE GLOS, MER SOLEIL, and CONUNDRUM document the succesful wines of the Wagner family.  These superlative men and their wines reflect the fine vineyard directing and winemaking skills of Chuck Wagner and his sons Charlie Wagner II and Joseph Wagner and their long-time winemaker and production director for Conundrum Jon Bolta.  The fellas gave me information on their latest relases.  

• CAYMUS 2003 "Special Selection" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $136:  "Special Selection" is the name we chose with the first vintage, 1975, to indicate grapes that stood above the others from the moment of harvest through oak barrel aging and, finally, the selection of the blend that we felt deserved this designation.   Over the decades, we have continued to recognize the superior character of specific vineyard blocks vintage by vintage.  We also secured long-term farming control—including planting, allowing us to select our preferred rootstock and clones—of Napa Valley vineyards with different slopes, elevation and climates.  This 2003 bottling includes grapes grown in gravely, well-drained soils on slopes of Napa Valley foothills and at a hilltop site at about 1,400 feet in elevation.  We believe that by choosing the best grapes from these varied sites, we have enhanced the depth and complexity of our "Special Selection" beyond what would have been possible from a single vineyard. The long 2003 harvest stretched into November after we picked some early blocks following September heat spikes.  We harvested each small vineyard block as we judged its fruit to be fully mature.  The days of judging grapes’ ripeness by Brix levels alone are long over.  To me, true ripeness is determined when the vines show signs of stress, the grapes’ seeds are dark and slightly crunchy, about ten percent of the berries show a slight orange-peel pattern, the skin tannins are sweet, and the juice has a minimal herbaceous quality.   Although yields were low this year, the wines that made the grade were worthy of our patience:  full-bodied, dark in color, ripe, and concentrated, with sweet tannins.  The primary aromas are of black currants, blackberries, brown spices and dark-roasted coffee beans.  In the mouth, the wine is lush and expansive, rich in berry fruit with a firm “grip” that makes the wine’s texture an important part of its character.  The finish is long and classic—ripe fruit dominates."  Chuck Wagner   
• BELLE GLOS 2004 Clark & Telephone Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley $38: "Clark & Telephone Vineyard, located near the corner of Clark Avenue and Telephone Road in the Santa Maria Valley, was planted “own root” to the Martini clone in the early 1970s," says Vineyardist/Winemaker Joseph J. Wagner. "Because own-root vines are not grafted, they're not protected from phylloxera, so they require great care to stay healthy.  They, however, produce intense, true-to-clone wines.  The Martini clone, one of the first to grace the California coastlands, has become something of a lost treasure since the introduction of newer, more fruit-forward clones.   It is known for its brown spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, clove) and firm cranberry flavors.   As with all our Belle Glos Pinot Noirs, this wine strongly reflects its site’s soils and climate as well as the vineyard practices we employ during the growing season.  Winter pruning determines the amount of leaf canopy and crop.  As vines grow, we thin them again, retaining only the heartiest shoots.  We also open windows in the leaf canopy to allow more light and air circulation to the fruit.  Then, on another pass through the vineyard before the grapes turn color, we thin again, leaving only those clusters that we will ripen to maturity.  In 2004, this severe selection reduced our already-sparse crop to 2.2 tons per acre.   At harvest, the grape clusters were small, loose and dark skinned, producing deeply colored, concentrated juice that was a pleasure to work with in the cellar.   We aged the lots for nine months in French oak barrels (61% new, 39% seasoned) to enhance the wine’s complexity and highlight its spice, smoke and gamey notes.  It has deep garnet color, sweet, bright cherry-cranberry aromas layered with toasty caramel, vibrant flavors of spiced cherry-cranberry with notes of freshly tilled earth and a mix of brown baking spices (cinnamon, cumin, cloves).  Firm acidity and an appealing note of barbecue spices and light smoke.  Supple but evident tannins, providing a structural backbone for the ripe, generous fruit.  Suggested serving temperature: 55-58 degrees F.  The bottle has a wax cap.  To open, pull strip tab and remove wax cap, then insert the corkscrew to open  Joseph J. Wagner, Vineyardist and winemaker
• BELLE GLOS 2004 Taylor Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast $50: "Sonoma Coast is a natural destination for this cool-climate variety, and within this broad appellation, certain sites are now producing some of California’s most amazing Pinot Noirs," says Joseph Wagner.   "We believe that our Taylor Lane Vineyard is one of these magical locations.   Just six miles from the Pacific Ocean, the area is cool, breezy and often foggy, making it difficult to ripen grapes to the optimal level in some years.  To increase our chances of achieving full maturity at this vineyard, we adapted a traditional Italian trellis system that carries the vine shoots out across a nearly horizontal canopy—very similar to a solar panel—allowing the shoot growth to lie flat, reducing vine-to-vine shading and maximizing photosynthesis.  The fruiting zone gets dappled sunlight throughout the day and excellent air circulation.  Having the fruit at eye level allows us to closely control our choices both when we remove clusters during the growing season (to reduce crop load) and at harvest.  The height of the trellis also enables us to graze sheep on our cover drop without any obstructions or damage to the vines or fruit. When we planted this ten-acre plot, intensive research greatly assisted our choice of clones: Dijon 113, 114, and 115.  They produce wines of silky texture, bold berry and earth flavors and rich, dark color." (please see above for temperature and opening bottle)
• CONUNDRUM 2004 California White Table Wine $24: "Our goal for this wine is a unique blend and CONUNDRUM's distinctive character has met that test for 16 vintages," says Jon Bolta, winemaker and production manager.  "The puzzle (we never reveal the its exact composition) comes from the range of grapes, the place  and how they're grown, and the way we treat each vineyard lot before the final blending. Conundrum is truly a California wine, including grapes from the Napa, Monterey, Santa Barbara and Tulare counties.  Our Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc comes from two sites that emphasize different characters: green-melon-like character at one and fresh-cut-grass character the other site.  The Muscat Canelli comes from warm Tulare County.  It gives the wine its high-toned, floral aroma, along with some equally floral, cool-climate Viognier we grew in Monterey County.  We also grew most of our Chardonnay and other varietals in Monterey County, one of the coolest, driest growing regions in California.  The long season there allows the grapes to develop deeply ripe flavors and golden color while retaining great natural acidity.  To maintain individual grape character, we ferment one-quarter of the lots in stainless steel (preserving freshness and crispness) and for complexity and texture we ferment and age most of the wines in oak barrels--some new, some seasoned up to ten months. When we blend the two, we work with almost 60 different flavor layers.   This vintage integrates these layers exceptionally well with aromas and flavors of peach, apricot, honeysuckle, lemon and lime, green melon and pear, some spicy vanilla, a creamy texture and crisp,  balancing finish.  I'm happy with our decision to use twist-top closures on Conundrum and we've had a very positive response.  I insist on faultless wines and this closure is the right tool to protect the integrity we work to achieve in the vineyards and winery. "  Jon Bolta, winemaker and production director
• MERS SOLEIL 2004 barreled fermented Chardonnay, Central Coast $42: "This vintage is a prime example of why we say this wine has a layered character," says Charlie Wagner II.   "The 2004 growing conditions were stellar, and harvesting continued without rain until November.   These differences are partly the result of variations in slope, soils and micro-climates, but are also built in by the viticultural choices we made to adapt to these variations.   Since our first plantings in 1988, we have introduced multiple clones of Chardonnay and trained the vines to three different trellis systems for optimal ripening in each area.  These choices are intensified in decisions we make all during the growing season, especially about thinning and leaf pulling.   For example, much of the fruit for this vintage came from our oldest-planted blocks at the northernmost border of the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation, now fully mature.  At these blocks, we pulled leaves from the east side of the vines a few weeks before we expected to harvest grapes, so the afternoon sun gave the clusters an amber-gold hue, almost like the glow of a light suntan.  In another block, further to the south and warmer, the nearly horizontal canopy of our “trentina” trellis system protected the clusters by allowing only flecks of sunlight on the fruit throughout the afternoon.  The result was a complex, slow-ripened flavor that beautifully complemented the fruit from other blocks.  Mer Soleil’s signature aromas of tropical fruit (mango, honeysuckle and citrus) with notes of toasted spice (clove, nutmeg).  In the mouth, the flavors follow through seamlessly, fulfilling the promise of the aromas and balancing the ripe fruit with the acidity that is hallmark of this cool-climate growing area.   The texture is mouthfilling—lush and dense; the finish is long and polished yet powerful."  Charlie Wagner II 
• MER SOLEIL 2002 Late Harvest White Wine, Santa Lucia Highlands $36 (375ml) "is the third vintage in a row in which Botrytis cinerea occurred in a small block of Viognier vines at the northern border of our Mer Soleil Vineyard," says Charlie Wagner II.  "This phenomenon did not happen in the 2003 vintage, so this vintage is our supply for the next while.  For this naturally occurring organism to turn grapes into a classic dessert wine requires a specific combination of temperature and moisture.  As autumn moved toward winter in 2002, the morning fogs typical of the Santa Lucia Highlands persisted longer and the afternoons remained sunny and rain-free except for two days in late November.  The grapes ripened without raisining, maintaining a balancing acidity, as the Botrytis organism burrowed into their core and concentrated their flavors into a clear, nectar-like juice.    'Late harvest' is very literal for this wine: we picked the grapes on December 6 and 7.  The Brix at harvest was 46 degrees.   These grapes required very close attention in the winery.  We pressed them not once but twice to extract as much as possible of the Botrytis character. We fermented and aged a small portion of the grapes in new French oak barrels to enhance the spice notes, but we kept most of the juice in temperature-controlled stainless steel for a very long, slow fermentation—18 days.  .  During this period, the Brix dropped about 1 degree a day until it reached the level we wanted at bottling, 30 degrees.   I believe that dessert wines are undergoing a rediscovery.  To me, this wine is the ideal way to end a fine dinner—rich, sweet and mellow—with or without an accompanying dessert.   Deep gold color.  Aromas of wildflower honey, ripe figs, and apricots. Flavors of citrus, honey and apricot essence, with a note of brown spices.  Lush, dense texture, mouthfilling and sweetly ripe, balanced by a note of citrus." Charlie Wagner II   www.mersoleilvineyard.com  

SPLURGE WINE OF THE MONTH: DOMINUS 2003 20th Anniversary Napa Valley Red Wine $109 deserves your special attention.  Christian Moueix recommends decanting this elegant, Bordeau-style wine before serving to allow its full potential to be reached.

NEWS

BONNY DOON  Vineyards reports selling increased amounts of wine.    National Sales Director Mark Giordana said that volume sales and revenue for 2005 grew 12% (to 370,000)  over 2004, following double digit gains the three previous years.  These increases mean BONNY DOON sales more than doubled since 2001.    Impact Magazine March 2006 issue chose Bonny Doon a "Hot Brands" award winner for a second year in a row.  Wine Review Weekly issued the wines a Grand Award for receiving the most positive reviews in 2005 from major U.S. daily newspapers and wire service wine columnists.   Cyril Penn, editor of Wine Business Monthly, noted "In an industry that is conservative and resistant to change, BOONY DOON, way ahead of the pack, has always marched to its own drum, embracing   whimsical names and labels long before 'fun wines' were a trend, and by switching to screwcaps and using biodynamic viticulture.  This winning formula has helped BONNY DOON expand to now sit among the 30 largest wineries in America by volume."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

COLORADO MOUNTAIN WINEFEST has announced   September 14-17 as the dates for its 15th Anniversary event in Palisade, Colorado, in the heart of the state.  For information: 800/704-3667; fax 970/243-9463; www.coloradowinefest.com
        ____________________________________________________________________________

SONOMA VALLEY Vintners and Growers Foundation is pleased to announce that tickets for the 14^th Annual Sonoma Valley Harvest Wine Auction Weekend, taking place Friday, Saturday and Sunday, September 1 - 3, 2006, at various locations throughout the Valley, are now on sale.  Buy tickets at www.sonomavalleywine.com or call 707-935-0803.

        ____________________________________________________________________________

RODNEY STRONG Vineyards Proprietor Tom Klein Received an Honorary Doctorate Degree from Johnson and Wales University, Providence, Rhode Island.  Klein also holds an MBA from Stanford University and chairs the marketing committee for the California Wine Institute and is a on the Board of Trustees for the California Academy of Sciences.  The Klein family purchased the winery in 1989 and since  has continued the winery's family-owned legacy and commitment to Sonoma County as a premier winegrowing region.

        ____________________________________________________________________________

GRAHAM'S Port is especially enjoyable chilled to calm the heat of summer.  Joining that refreshing idea is a bottle of COSSART GORDON Madeira.    GRAHAM'S Port, proprietor is the Symington family, owns vineyards in the famous Upper Douro.  Port producers have traditionally enjoyed chilled fortified wines during the summer months as temperatures in the Douro Valley can soar to over 100 degrees.  When chilled, the wine's fruit is enhanced and the alcohol made less prevalent, which makes it desirable as an apéritif or a light dessert.  Aged Tawny Ports, it seems, have become increasingly popular in the U.S.; in fact, it is the fastest growing Port category and grew 26 percent between 2002 and 2005 as noted by the Port Wine Institute.  Graham’s Port is leading this growth and is up over 40% for the same period.  Additionally, the trend of serving chilled fortified wines has caught on in some top American restaurants such as Picholine in New York, Kokkari in San Francisco, and Spago in Beverly Hills. (please see below)

        ____________________________________________________________________________

EAST BAY AREA wineries offer great tastes and visits for tourists seeking the fine vinous products of California.  One of the East Bay's best kept secrets is a handful of wineries in Alameda and Oakland that have emerged as some of of the finest wineries in California.  A quick ride from San Francisco on a ferry, train or in your car  brings you to the destinations of these wineries. 

• ROSENBLUM CELLARS has been making wine in the East Bay since 1978.   From its humble basement winemaking origins, ROSENBLUM has evolved into a world-renowned winery located in Alameda's historic Todd Shipyard building.  Hailed as a mecca for Zinfandel and leader in Rhône varietals, Rosenblum's urban tasting room has sweeping views of the San Francisco's skyline and bridges and offers tastes of its wines from every important California region.  Rosenblum, 2900 Main Street-Suite 1100, Alameda, CA 94501, tel: 510/865-7007, Open daily
• JC CELLARS, founded by Rosenblum's consulting winemaker Jeff Cohn, has his winery near Jack London Square in Oakland.  Known as Rhône-in-his-bones Cohn, Jeff focuses the JC CELLARS brand on the great varietals of Rhône with an emphasis on concentrated hillside-grown Syrah.  Combining cutting-edge techniques with a respect and appreciation for classic winemaking, Jeff's single-vineyard wines fuse vibrant California terroir with the sophisticated spirit of France's Rhône Valley.  JC CELLARS, 55 4th Street, Oakland, CA 94607, tel: 510/749-9463 (appointment tastings and tours).
• DASHE CELLARS shares the Oakland winemaking facility with JC CELLARS.   Michael and Anne Dashe, husband and wife, are a winemaking team that combines his winemaking skills (previosuly at Chateau Lafite-Rothchild, Far Niente and Ridge) with French-born Anne's classic enology training at the prestigious University of Bordeaux.   Side by side they blend Old and new World techniques to achieve DASHE CELLARS complex and sensuous synthesis of French and American winemaking. DASHE CELLARS 55 4th Street, Oakland, CA 94607, tel: 510/749-9463 (appointment tastings and tours).

        ____________________________________________________________________________     

COSENTINO Winery, known for its ultra-premium, limited production wines, was invited again to provide the only American wine available at the American Pavilion at the Cannes Film Festival during May.  Executive Winemaker Mitch Cosentino tells me he was delighted to send his wines for the fourth year in a row to this event.  "We were thrilled to support the American film industry by pouring our California wines at this event."  Mitch Cosentino announced that Cosentina Signature Wines has acquired an ultra premium Napa Valley wine company founded by Michael Ouellette, Blockheadia Ringnosii.  It specializes in small batch Petite Sirah and Zinfandel.   The brand is also known for Sauvignon Blanc.  Ouellette will direct operations and is teaming up with Cosentino, who consulted with him from the beginning.

        ____________________________________________________________________________     

WHOLE FOODS MARKET held a new children's food education program in collaboration with Boggy Creek Farm--one of the few urban organic farms left in the nation.  Owners and farmers Carol Ann Sayle and Larry Butler are legendary for their commitment to sustainable agriculture.  They have sold their produce and partnered with Whole Foods for this project.  The five-day camp, for twelve children aged 8 to 11 years was held 8 to 11am Monday through Friday for two sessions during June, $225 per child.   Parents toured the farm and visited Boggy Creek Market on Saturday.   Campers participated in Whole Foods Culinary Center, a hands-on cooking class, and toured the produce section to make the farm to food, the store to table connections. 

WHOLE FOODS MARKET, Austin, Texas, has invited Sarah Jane English to present a program on "Entertaining with Wine" in September at the CulinaryCenter.   Date to be announced. 

        ____________________________________________________________________________

SAINT HELENA ROAD Vineyards and Winery is a new, small production winery. "We started with  60 acres of great mountain dirt on the west side of Spring Mountain, the Sonoma County side, and now have 18.5 acres of beautifully planted vineyards with an environmentally friendly, hillside winery," Ryan Maier, great-grandson of Roy J. Maier tells me.  "Our wine is real mountain fruit up front and a finish that lasts and lasts.  We grow the five Bordeaux varietals and blend them into one outstanding wine.  Our wine is a tribute to our grandfather and great-grandfather Roy J. Maier, a musician in the Paul Whiteman Orchestra during the Roaring Twenties.  After his Whiteman years, Roy designed machinery that automated the manufacturing of musical reeds for woodwind instruments.  His factory was the largest producer of musical reeds on the globe.   Our first release, ‘Roy J Maier’ 5 varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, is 504 cases, and our property sits at 1800 feet above the sea with a switch back gravel road that winds up into the back country where our precious gem is nestled--the best kept secret in the Napa/Sonoma premium wine region. My family has a passion and love for wine farming and our land means everything to us!" The Maier family: Patty and Richard and Ryan and Daniel. www.sthelenaroadvineyards.com) or www.sthelenardwinery.com 

        ____________________________________________________________________________

FETZER VINEYARDS, in Mendocino County, installs its second solar energy equipment.  FETZER will place the wine industry’s largest solar array atop its bottling facility in Hopland, generating 1.1 million kilowatt hours of clean electricity annually, enough to offset more than 960,000 pounds of carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions, the equivalent of taking approximately 80 cars off the road for a year or planting 130 acres of trees.  Since 1999, most of the energy for the 10,000 sq. ft.  Administration Building has been generated by roof-top photovoltaic panels.  3 Phases Energy Services and MMA Renewable Ventures are leading the collaborative effort to develop the Fetzer solar project.  The system’s 4,300 panels will cover nearly 75,000 square feet of rooftop space.  Construction begins in July, with completion expected by the end of October.

        ____________________________________________________________________________

KENDALL-JACKSON's latest production is a book, THE HEIRLOOM TOMATO COOKBOOK.  It is the definitive statement on growing, cooking and enjoying tasty heirloom tomatoes.  This book was conceived as an tribute to Kendall-Jackson's Annual Heirloom Tomato Festival, held in September (this year on Saturday, September 9, 2006).   The festival benefits the The School Garden Network.  The book is available on K-J's website: www.kj.com for $16.95 or at the K-J Wine Center in Santa Rosa and the K-J Tasting Room in Healdsburg.  In July it begins distribution at Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble and Costco.  The colorful book has 132 pages, 50 recipes, history, gardening tips, wine pairings and a tomato resource section.  For tickets to the Festival, see the website or telephone (800) 769-3649.

        ____________________________________________________________________________

JOSEPH PHELPS VINEYARDS' Spring Valley Times Seasonal Newsletter reports on the biodynamic farming program that began in 1999.  "In line with the core concept, we are trying to recreate a farm environment here on the St. Helena ranch," says Vineyard Operations Director Philippe Pessereau.  "This year we began incorporating farm animals by using sheep to graze in the vineyard during vine dormancy.   We already had chickens and bees, but it was amazing to watch 640 ewes and their lambs roam the vineyards to graze on cover crops and grasses and fertilize over 120 acres.   They recycled the grass, mowed it and influenced the soil ecology."  On another matter, Chairman Bill Phelps updated the new Freestone Winery project.   "We embarked on a Sonoma County project in 1999  driven by a desire to produce world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and bought 100 acres (82 planted to pinot noir and 18 to chardonnay) near the town of Freestone--hence the domain is called Freestone.  We broke ground on a new winery in 2005 that will be ready for the 2007 harvest.  Because the winery building is a private facility, we'll showcase the wines in a small building in Freestone, hopefully later in 2006."

            ____________________________________________________________________________

BALZAC COMMUNICATIONS & MARKETING announced the addition of a large number of new clients and qualified staff members to represent them.   “These are very exciting times in this industry,” says Balzac President and Founder Paul Wagner.  “Our clients are growing, and we are delighted to grow with them.   Our marketing communications agency with a no-nonsense approach to combining the strategies and tactics of marketing, public relations, advertising and graphic design to achieve the marketing goals of our local, national, and international clients." 

             ____________________________________________________________________________

ROW ELEVEN Solomon Hills Pinot Noir tied for 2nd place with a score of 93 in the 4th Annual Pinot Noir Shootout, finishing for the second year in a row amongthe top five renowned Pinot Noir producers from around the world.  There were 247 entries.

            ____________________________________________________________________________

GLORIA FERRER Celebrates its Spanish Heritage at the 14th Annual Catalán Festival: In an event that seamlessly blends wine, food, music, dance and art, GLORIA FERRER makes this magic happen in its champagne caves in Sonoma July 22 and 23.  The winery is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year and will host the celebration of all things Catalan, one of Spain’s most diverse regions.  For information: Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves at (707) 933-1999, www.gloriaferrer.com. The winery is located at 23555 Carneros Highway (Route 121) about an hour from San Francisco.  The tasting room is open daily from 10am to 5pm.

        ____________________________________________________________________________

BEAULIEU Vineyards (BV), has received an award from Guinness World Records.  The historic Napa vintner, wine sponsor of the Las Vegas Centennial Celebration, received confirmation that the "Las Vegas Toast of the Century by BV" on December 31, 2005,  broke the world record for "largest simultaneous toast in one venue."  The official certificate from Guinness World Records received on May 31, 2006, established the new record at 13,500 participants.   On New Year's Eve, 2005, Las Vegas Mayor Oscar B. Goodman raised a glass of Century Cellars Chardonnay by BV and led the capacity crowd at the Fremont Street Experience in a toast to not only a new year, but also a new century for Las Vegas.   

      ____________________________________________________________________________

SULLIVAN Vineyards won Best of Show (reds) for the SULLIVAN Vineyards 2002 Reserve Merlot, Rutherford, California at the Wine Appreciation Guild 2006 Literary Award Tasting.   The 16th Annual Wine Literary Award tasting was held at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco on May 2.  This year 80 distinguished journalists and authors Judged 1000 red wines and awarded the Best of Show (reds) to Sullivan Vineyards Reserve Merlot 02.  The Red wines included in the tasting were, Pinot Noir, Taz, Sangiovese, Meritage/Bordeaux blends, Red Blends, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Red Rhone varietals and blends.  Sullivan Vineyards, a small family owned and operated winery, has been producing award winning wines since 1981. The Sullivan legacy began with Jim Sullivan and is being carried on by his eldest son, Sean Sullivan, the current General Manager. 

         ____________________________________________________________________________

PAT SHARPE, Texas Monthly food writer and editor, won a James Beard Award for magazine writing.  Sharpe is a member of the Austin Chapter of Les Dames d'Escoffier.

         ____________________________________________________________________________

SATAY Restaurant in Austin, Texas, owned by Chef Foo Swasdee, was awarded a Zagat International plaque, the "2007 Excellence" Award.  SATAY was also featured in Southwest Airline's SPIRIT Magazine's "Food of the Month."  Swasdee is a member of the Austin Chapter of Les Dames d'Escoffier.

        ____________________________________________________________________________     

KITTY CRIDER, Austin American-Statesman food editor, received the MFK Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing presented by Les Dames D'Escoffier International for her article "Anything for Mother: Remembering One February Morning with Mom and a Batch of Angel Biscuits."  Crider is a member of the Austin Chapter of Les Dames d'Escoffier. 

                ____________________________________________________________________________

HERZOG WINE CELLARS held its First Anniversary Benefit Gala in June to celebrate HERZOG's successful first year in its new Oxford home.  The event benefited the Etta Israel Center, a non-profit, community based organization for people with special needs, and Gullwings Children's Museum, dedicated to providing a place for children and their families to discover together the wonders of the world around us. 

          ____________________________________________________________________________

CHATEAU GUIRAUD has been acquired by several companies.   FFP (Société Foncière, Financière et de Participations - FFP--an industrial and financial holding listed in Paris), whose majority holders are the Peugeot family; Domaine de Chevalier (Bernard family); Neipperg Invest (family holding) and Xavier Planty, the managing director, have joined to take over the civil society of Chateau Guiraud, an 1855 Sauternes premier cru classé.  CHATEAU GUIRAUD is a jewel of Sauternes whose wine estate dates from the 15th century, has more than 100 hectares of vineyards and a reputation for its organic growing approach that favors Botrytis cinerea and the finesse of its liqueur-like wines. 

         ____________________________________________________________________________

BERINGER 2002 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon marks the 25th anniversary of the program with this release.  Winemaker Ed Spragia says it seems "only a moment ago that my mentor Myron Nightingale and I first entertained the idea of creating a reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was 1977 and we crafted the wine from a single vineyard--our Chabot Vineyard."  (Please see entry below).

        ____________________________________________________________________________

NEW MAP Showcases Monterey County’s Appellations and Vineyards: The Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association (MCVGA) has just released their newly revised "Monterey Wine Country Appellations and Vineyards Map." The map showcases the member estates and sub-regions of the 40,000 acres of vineyards located within Monterey County’ s borders. It depicts the approved American Viticulture Areas (AVAs) of Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Lucas, Hames Valley, Chalone, San Bernabe, and Carmel Valley. Details on the pending San Antonio Valley AVA are also included on the map.   AVAs are one-of-a-kind winegrowing districts that boast their own unique combination of geography, soil, and climate. The federal government has granted these appellations the right to put their specific locale on the wine label.  This provides a special "sense of place" for consumers making wine buying decisions.  For information,  MCVGA at 831.375.9400 or info@montereywines.org. and at www.montereywines.org.

        ____________________________________________________________________________

JACKSON FAMILY TO ACQUIRE MURPHY-GOODE: Jess Jackson signed an agreement to acquire all the issued and outstanding capital stock of the Murphy-Goode Estate Winery, a California corporation, for an undisclosed sum. The Murphy family will retain their vineyard holdings.  Situated in the heart of Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, the Murphy-Goode Winery has been making high quality Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon since Tim Murphy, Dale Goode and Dave Ready founded their three-family partnership in 1985. "The purchase of Murphy-Goode is a strong fit for the Jackson family portfolio and our expanding sales organization," said Jess Jackson, founder and proprietor of Jackson Family Wines. "As a friend and neighbor in the Alexander Valley, I have watched Murphy-Goode grow over the years, producing one exceptional wine after another. We all started in this business about the same time, and we plan to continue their historic family legacy of passion and commitment to quality." 

       ____________________________________________________________________________

WINEMAKER KIM CRAWFORD describes New Zealand 2006 Vintage:  "The 2005 cool weather during flowering reduced bud fertility and bunches by 30% and 2006 also had low yields due to coolness.   Warmer weather helped sauvignon blanc and riesling develop perfectly.  The later flowering regions such as Nelson, Waipara and Central Otago flowered in the warm growing period with good yields in all varieties.  In my 18 years of winemaking in New Zealand, 2006 is the earliest I can remember.  A warm, dry spring meant 19 more growing days by Christmas. From the grape flavor perspective, many varieties reached the profile we require at lower than normal Brix levels, meaning we have the luxury of fully ripe flavors at lower than normal alcohol.  This is ideal for our wine styles.  All and all, New Zealand has had a very strong vintage across all varieties.  A sizeable vintage but with a low yield per hectare we are well placed to wow the world again.  This time it will not only be with Sauvignon Blanc.”  

        ____________________________________________________________________________

CORK SUPPLY USA celebrates 25 years: Jochen Michalski began selling wine corks by day and at night he and his wife Sofia would process the orders.  "I had been working in the cork industry for several years and I saw that the premium wineries were being under served," Jochen says.  "So I got the financing and founded my own premium wine cork supply company in 1981."  Jochen expanded his model for success and today has operations in Europe, North and South America, Australia and South Africa.  He owns state-of-the-art facilities in Portugal and has five forest managers who work directly with the cork forest growers to maintain quality at every level.             ____________________________________________________________________________

BALLETTO Vineyards and DUTTON-GOLDFIELD Winery are delighted to announce their Tasting Room Grand Opening Celebration on Sunday, August 6, 2006.  Everyone is invited to join in the festivities from 11am to 3pm, featuring special new release and pre-release wines paired with delicious appetizers, live music, warm hospitality and good friends.  The BALLETTO and DUTTON-GOLDFIELD cooperative Tasting Room is located at 5700 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa, and offers tastings and sales from both wineries, open from 10am to 4pm daily ____________________________________________________________________________

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)

INCA, the wine of the Andes, is a wine new to me from the Argentina side of the Andes Mountains.   The grapes come from high in the Andes (6000 ft.) in the region of the Calchaqui Valley.  Harvested at optimum flavor ripeness, the exceptional altitude and sunlight give the wines unique characteristics.  All grapes are hand harvested. 

• INCA 2005 Torrontes (80%) Chardonnay (20%) Calchaqui Valley, Northern Argentina $9: The wine was reductively treated in the cellar and cool-fermented for four weeks to retain the delicate fruit, then left on lees for three months prior to bottling.   Intense perfumed aromas and flavors of citrus, stone fruits, roses and crispy   on the palate, enjoy with salads, pasta, fish and spicy dishes.
• INCA 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) Malbec (20%) Calchaqui Valley, Northern Argentina $9: Grapes were cold macerated then warm fermented.  Once pressed the wine underwent malolactic fermentation on wood chips, racked after six months on less with soft fining prior to bottling.  Full-bodied with ripe tannin backbone, aromas and flavors of violets, red currants, ripe berries and plum, hints of cigar box, enjoy with red meat, pasta dishes and mature cheeses. 
• INCA 2003 Barbera (80%) Merlot (20%) Calchaqui Valley, Northern Argentina $9: Cold fermented, long maceration and then pressed to undergo malolactic, egg-white fining prior to filtration and bottling, a rich full-bodied wine, ripe tannins, rich berry-grape aromas and flavors, with wild plum, enjoy with red meats and big cheeses.

        ____________________________________________________________________________

KENWOOD Vineyards Assistant Vice President  Margie Healy (of all the Heck properties listed below) discusses winemaking challenges.   "One of the challenges is to develop a wine’s full potential,: Healy says.  "Some winemakers push the envelope on every wine for optimum intensity and complexity because they believe bigger is better; however, Kenwood Winemaker Pat Henderson sees a different challenge--achieving full potential by building on the fruit character derived in the vineyard.  His aim is to create the best – but rarely the biggest – possible wine.  The just-released 2003 Kenwood Vineyards Sonoma County and Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons illustrate Henderson’s philosophy perfectly."   VALLEY OF THE MOON has released its latest Sangiovese Rosé, a dry wine for summer fare.

• KENWOOD Vineyards 2003 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) is predominantly Sonoma Valley grapes.  "The rich alluvial soils and valley floor climate (warm days, cool nights) produce medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon with generous fruit (blackberry, plum)  and modest tannins.   To preserve the appealing fruit character, I age the young wine in seasoned French and American oak barrels and blend in small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc (nutmeg and mint)."  
• KENWOOD Vineyards 2003 Jack London Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) comes from the eastern slopes of Sonoma Mountain where a more temperate climate and thin rocky soils concentrate grape character (black cherry, cassis) and produce bold, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon.  I age the wine exclusively in  newer French oak to smooth and soften the powerful character and add a little Merlot and Syrah to enhance smoothness and add spice, cedar, tobacco, to the fruit."
• KENWOOD Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir Rosé Russian River Valley $15: One wine trends of the early 21st century is a greater appreciation for Rosé.   "It's realized that pink has its place, in wines whose fresh fruit, and dry crisp character enhance casual sipping and dining in a way few reds or whites can.   This wine is made entirely from RRV fruit, known for producing excellent Pinot Noir.  Grapes were harvested at peak ripeness, crushed and given a 24-hour skin contact before pressing.  Fermented at cool temperatures to dryness, a small portion of oak-aged red Pinot Noir was blended in for body and complexity."
• LAKE SONOMA 2005 Sauviginon Blanc, Dry Creek $16: "This winebegan with superb grapes and added quality winemaking for its full expression.  Its forward nose has fresh citrus, herb, gooseberry and pear.  Grapefruit, lime and melon flavors incorporate    herb and white pepper notes, as well as generous balancing acidity.   Full flavored yet refreshingly crisp, the wine's fresh fruit lingers in the finish.  

• VALLEY OF THE MOON 2005 Valley of the Moon Rosato di Sangiovese, California, $16 is the newly released rosé that has real attitude.   "Its vivid color, vibrant fruit and dry, crisp finish is ideal for summer sipping and pairing with flavorful summer fare.  Valley of the Moon takes a minimalist approach to highlight the variety’s distinctive qualities.  The wine has aromas and flavors of raspberry and cranberry, hint of honeysuckle, strawberry, some red cherry, and balancing acidity gives this dry rosé a long, crisp, finish."        ____________________________________________________________________________

STERLING is introducing its inaugural release of STERLING Vintner's Collection Pinot Grigio.  It joins the five other varietals that make up the Vintner's Collection portfolio. 

• STERLING Vintner's Collection 2005 Pinot Grigio, Central Coast $11: "Grapes are sourced from several vineyards in the Central Coast ranging from warm west side of Paso Robles, the moderately cool Monterey County and the Santa Maria Valley.  Blending these grapes provides crisp acidity and a refreshing zest that's perfect for the summer heat.
• STERLING Vintner's Collection 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast $11: " Fruit was sourced from selected cool climate vineyards and was fermented in 100% stainless steel to preserve the delicate flavors and aromas.  This wine ahs classic aromas and flavors of herbs and minerals balanced by tropical fruits and melons with fresh and bright fruit in a medium body, enjoy with lemon chicken, fish in dill sauce and well chilled.
• STERLING VINEYARDS 2003 Napa Valley Merlot $22: "Merlot is the benchmark varietal for STERLING.  We ferment in Stainless Steel tanks and the juice is pumped over the skins two to three times daily.  Then it is pressed to near dryness.  This wine is a dense and dark plum color and offers aromas of black cherry, raspberry, toasty oak, nutmeg and cloves.  Luscious flavors of blackberries, cherries, cocoa, cedar and vanilla lead to a full, well-textured finish.  Pair with steak, lamb chops and grilled Portobello mushrooms."      

         ____________________________________________________________________________       

GRAHAM'S Port is especially enjoyable chilled to calm the heat of summer.  Joining that refreshing idea is a bottle of COSSART GORDON Madeira.    GRAHAM'S Port, proprietor is the Symington family, owns vineyards in the famous Upper Douro.  Port producers have traditionally enjoyed chilled fortified wines during the summer months as temperatures in the Douro Valley can soar to over 100 degrees.  When chilled, the wine's fruit is enhanced and the alcohol made less prevalent, which makes it desirable as an apéritif or a light dessert.  Aged Tawny Ports, it seems, have become increasingly popular in the U.S.; in fact, it is the fastest growing Port category and grew 26 percent between 2002 and 2005 as noted by the Port Wine Institute.  Graham’s Port is leading this growth and is up over 40% for the same period.  Additionally, the trend of serving chilled fortified wines has caught on in some top American restaurants such as Picholine in New York, Kokkari in San Francisco, and Spago in Beverly Hills.

• GRAHAM'S 10 Year Tawny ($31) Port is placed in oak casks to mature over long periods of time.  During the extended maturation process, the Port gradually oxidizes, loses its deep purple color and takes on a golden-amber hue.  Aged Tawnies are blended.  The winemaker selects   wines for their specific characteristics to ensure a consistent “house style.”   (The year on the label reflects the average age of the blended lots and not a specific vintage.)  During this blending process, older lots of wine are added for their complexity and structure, whereas younger lots are selected for their youthful fruitiness and bright flavors. 
• COSSART GORDON 5 Year Old Bual ($21) Madeira comes from the tropical Portuguese island located 375 miles west of the Moroccan coast.  Producers use heat while aging the wine in a practice known as estufagem.  In most cases, the wine is put in tanks that are heated up to 105 degrees Fahrenheit for a minimum of three months.  Madeira’s complex caramel and toffee flavors are a result of this heating and oxidation process.  
• Chilling these wines is a novel way to enjoy a traditional beverage that provides a special touch to special summer celebrations and casual gatherings alike.

            ____________________________________________________________________________     

CHATEAU ST. JEAN has released three new wines to look for on your next visit to your wine merchant.  Winemaker Margo Van Staaven calls these wines classic examples of CHATEAU ST. JEAN Sonoma County appellation wines.

• CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2004 Sonoma County Pinot Noir $22: "Pinot noir is a grape that must be grown in the right place.  In Sonoma County that's the Carneros and Russian River Valley. This wine is youthful and engaging, filled with bright cranberry notes, cherries, lavender and some smokiness.  Jammy on the entry, the palate is coated with cola, leather, brown spices and cassis flavors that surround silky tannins and continue to a long finish."
• CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2003 Sonoma County Merlot $25: "Though we combine grape sources from Alexander Valley (35%), Russian River Valley, Carneros, Knights Valley and Dry Creek Valley, the cornerstone fruit comes from the St. Jean Estate Vineyard in Sonoma Valley (30%).  Our Kenwood Estate fruit is some of the best I have ever worked with--black cherry character, plenty of extract and structure, soft fleshiness with exotic floral aromatics.  We use cool climate Merlot from the Carneros and Russian River Valley and Malbec (12%) from Alexander Valley and Knights Valley."
• CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2003 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon $27: " Sonoma's coastal climate, soils and complex terrain of small valleys, benchlands and hillsides create prime conditions for growing grapes.  This wine blends vineyards in Knight's Valley (35%), Alexander Valley (34%) and the Sonoma Valley (31%).  It has aromas and flavors of almonds, mocha, coconut and hints of spearmint with a sweet, lush entry, round tannins and layers of red fruits and dried herbs, highly structured and well balanced with lingering notes of blackberries and smoke."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

MERIDIAN Vineyards has released two wines for summer coifing.   "These are two of our most popular wines," say Winemaker Lee Miyamura.   "Both wines are crafted in the easy-going, fruit-forward style that has become the hallmark of Meridian."

• MERIDIAN Vineyards 2005 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay $10: "This wine is grown in the coolest regions of Santa Barbara where classic sought-after characteristics are typical.  The soils keep vigor in check so the yield is not huge yet the fruit intensity is just the opposite.  Pineapple, floral, citrus and apple aromas and flavors in abundance with oak at a minimum."
• MERIDIAN Vineyards 2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir $11: "A long, cool growing season made a good vintage.  Fermenting in small red-wine tanks that are as high as they are wide gives an ideal ratio of skin to juice and produces more concentrated flavors.  This wine is a study in contrasts--demure yet charismatic and it exudes the classic hallmarks of Pinot Noir: cherry candy, hints of strawberry, roses and violets, black tea, earth, dash of vanilla oak spice, elegant and medium body with a velvet texture."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

CHALK HILL Estate Vineyards & Winery has a new winemaker, Steve Leveque.  Steve tells me that after ten years at Robert Mondavi Winery, he was invited by the Furth family owners in 2003 to come run the winemaking program at Chalk Hill.  The Furth family created Chalk Hill Estate with the great European wine family estates in mind.  "I am pleased to present some of my first Chalk Hill wines," he says.  "All of our wines are 100% estate grown, which gives us complete control over the fruit from beginning to end and allows us to keep yields at extremely low levels.  With gentile handling, including individual cluster and single berry sorting capabilities, my goal is to coax the best out of every grape."

• CHALK HILL Estate Vineyards & Winery 2004 Estate Sauvignon blanc (unfiltered) $25: "I'm fortunate to have no less than nine clones with which to blend this wine.  Our style objective is to create a wine with richness and layers of flavor while true to its varietal nature.  It has lush aromas and flavors of grapefruit, honeysuckle, exotic spice and vibrant band of tropical fruit and mineral flavors; it is lengthy and persistent--a classic effort.  Pair with Asian-influenced crab salad and traditional Pacific Rim cuisine."
• CHALK HILL Estate Vineyards & Winery 2003 Estate Chardonnay (unfiltered) $36: "Our Chardonnay clonal research dates back to 1989 and is even more extensive than that of our well-known universities here in California.   In the early 1990s, David Ramey put us on the map for Chardonnay, and I am proud to make these wines today using full-blown Burgundian techniques: whole clusters, direct-to-press processing, 100% French oak barrel fermentation (40% new), native primary and malalactic fermentation with weekly batonage and no filtration.  The wine has layers of flavors and complexity, aromas and flavors of apples, pears, hazelnut and integrated oak, a combination of richness and elegance with lemon curb, exotic spices and a creamy fresh acidity."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

GUNDLACH-BUNDSCHU reports that it is the oldest family-owned and operated winery in California and currently run by the sixth generation of the Bundschu family.  The 320-acre estate was named Rhinefarm in 1858 by Jacob Gundlach, who started the winery with son-in-law Charles Bundschu.  These folks really know what they are doing and enjoying their Merlot and the chilled Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc from Monterey for summertime refreshment will convince all that the heritage has been well placed.

• GUNDLACH-BUNDSCHU 2005 Gewürztraminer, Rhineland Vineyard, Sonoma $22:   "Assertive aromas and flavors of this Alsatian-style wine are reminiscent of lychee and almond blossom.  Full bodied and bone dry, the finish offers lingering lemon-lime flavors and nuttiness and classical varietal spice.  Pair with a wide array of cuisine: Indian, Asian and roasted turkey and ham."
• BLOCK 13 BY Gundlach-Bundschu 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey County $14: Aromas of passion fruit, lemon zest and citrus blossom burst from the glass, followed by subtle notes of green grass that add complexity to the nose. On the palate, ripe flavors and a broad mouthfeel are balanced by zippy acidity, drawing the key lime, kumquat, and particularly pink grapefruit flavors through to a crisp, lingering finish.We harvest the vineyard at two separate flavor profiles; the first early, to preserve zippy acid and citrus flavors, the second a bit riper, with more weight and body and tropical flavors, but before ripeness progresses to melon flavors.  The fruit is 70% destemmed and pressed to extract some grassiness from the skins, and 30% whole cluster pressed to achieve roundness and structure. The two lots are cool fermented separately to retain delicate aromas, then blended and cold settled in stainless steel tanks.
• GUNDLACH-BUNDSCHU 2003 Merlot, Rhineland Vineyard, Sonoma $30: "Dusty cherry, cranberry, dried sage and allspice aromas.  Smooth entry, red currant and berries prevail, well integrated tannins and firm acidity carry the elegant structure to a long focused finish. "

        ____________________________________________________________________________

RANCHO ZABACO is named for one of the original Mexican land grants in Northern Sonoma, which crosses over portions of the Russian River Valley (RRV).  The wines are inspired by the bold spirit and rich heritage of the Spanish and Mexican pioneers who settled this rugged land.  The 2004 vintage took off with a burst of heat in March.  There was no spring frost damage, record temperatures into the 80s pushed out vines almost a month early.  Warm days and cool nights provided ideal conditions for the fruit to hold its acid at good levels and leading to a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.  Harvest was completed without rain falling on the fruit by mid-October.   Over 500 acres of sauvignon blanc are planted in RRV.  The zinfandel fruit fully ripened and was harvested mid-September.

• RANCHO ZABACO 2004 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma $18: "This grape is perfectly suited to the long, cool growing season of RRV that keeps the wines crisp and allows the true character of the grape to come through.  It has boxwood, fresh cust grass, lime peel, lemongrass, grapefruit, passion fruit, a touch of mineral and sweet pea aromas and flavors.  The wine is crisp and refined, elegant and expressive, pair with a wide range of foods."
• RANCHO ZABACO 2004 Russian River Valley Zinfandel, Sonoma $28: "An elegant Zinfandel with bright acidity and intense red fruit flavors.  Cherry and raspberry aromas match with blackberry jam and ripe plum flavors.  This wine has a rich, silky mouthfeel with fine tannins and a long finish."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

BRONCO WINE COMPANY touts the production of super value wines that are good for summer and has released several such wines, including CRANE LAKE Pinot Grigio and a Shiraz.  Also for your enjoyment, FOREST GLEN produces affordable wines.

• CRANE LAKE 2005 Pinot Grigio, California $5: "Aromas and flavors of pineapple and pear, green apple and melon and a soft finish."
• CRANE LAKE 2004 Shiraz, California $5: "A delicious ruby-colored wine with aromas of blackberry and pepper and flavors of plum and cherry and soft tannins for a smooth finish."
• FOREST GLEN 2004 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, California $10: "Intense Chardonnay varietal aromatics together with a full rich body with a core of pear, nectarine, honey-vanilla and a buttery finish and focus."
• FOREST GLEN 2004 Barrel Selection Merlot, California $10: "This ruby-colored wine has toasty, oak-framed plum, currant and wild berry nose and flavors with complexity on the palate and a slight astringency that does not persist as the wine has a solid, smooth finish."
• HARLOW RIDGE 2005 Chardonnay, Lodi $10: "The wine is part of Napa Ridge Winery, a division of Bronco that is owned by Franzia (no relation to the boxed wine).  It has a creamy texture and supports layers of fruit and spice, apple and pear mingle with vanilla to create a satisfying impression.  The finish is full with crisp acidity."
• HARLOW RIDGE 2005 Pinot Noir, Lodi $10: "Ruby color, bright fruit flavors and a soft finish begin to characterize this pinot Noir.  Delightful nuances of strawberry, cherry and vanilla yield to a finale of mellifluous tannins and a clean , gentle close."

        ____________________________________________________________________________    

DOMINUS and NAPANOOK are the Napa Valley wines produced by Christian Moueix.  DOMINUS is the proprietary wine produced since 1983 and this year's 2003 release represents his 20th anniversary bottle.  Both the wines express the terroir of the place they are grown, the historic Napanook Vineyard, renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon.  Today the vineyard is planted with 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remaining acreage with other classic Bordeaux varietals: merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot.  

• DOMINUS ($109) has a core of Cabernet Sauvignon (88%) with 7% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot--no Merlot was used in this blend.  Cabernet Sauvignon imparts the wine's intense aromas of cassis and cherries with notes of vanilla and licorice. Cabernet Franc brings a supple delicacy and finesse and aging ability.  Petit Verdot contributes dense, lively tannins and completes the wine's fragrance with spicy, floral aromas.   Since its first release, DOMINUS has been known for its complexity and earthy character, reflections of the Napanook Vineyard terroir. Christian Moueix truly believes that producing a wine begins in the vineyard.  For that reason, each vintage is unique with different varietal compositions reflecting the vineyard and climate conditions of that particular year.  Between November and May 2003, the vineyard received over 35 inches of rain.  April brought over five inches of rain and also was recorded as the coldest in decades.  With cool spring temperatures, bloom occurred late in May--long after the rains had passed.  Summer temperatures were above average, with several days topping 100 degrees F. between June and September.  Steady temperatures allowed the fruit to mature slowly and evenly.  October was exceptional--warm and dry, so the grapes were able to linger on the vines until perfect ripeness."
• NAPANOOK 2003 Napa Valley ($39) an historic vineyard that dates back to the mid-19th century at the foot of the Mayacamas Mountains in Yountville.  Christian Moueix first released this wine in 1996, intending it to be enjoyed in its younger years.   NAPANOOK is a blend of four varietals chosen from vineyard lots known for their finesse, lively fruit and subtle tannins. The winemaking team's goal is to find the perfect equilibrium between these elements, creating a wine that is harmonious in balance and pleasurable to drink. This wine is made to be enjoyed with food and will also age well for ten years. This wine has a dark garnet color, a nose of vanilla bean, cedar and red fruit."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

ST. FRANCIS Winery & Vineyard has released its 2003 Syrah ($19).   I like Syrah especially and I'm very fond of this delicious wine.  Tom Mackey captures some of spices available in Russian River Valley fruit and combines it with jammy, black fruits of Sonoma Valley.  The blending of cool and hot growing regions shows off his fruit forward and concentrated complexity at its best.  You'll want to buy at least two bottles of this Syrah.   The taste profile of this deep garnet colored wine includes appealing fruit aromas and flavors of cherry, blueberry, hints of pepper, cedar and mint.  It's big on the palate, full and rich yet smooth and complex with alluring black raspberries, blueberries and dried cranberry notes.  I like it with hunks of  aged Cheddar toasted on 100% Whole Wheat bread and a nice beef rib-eye with wild rice.  It's mighty fine just by itself too."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

JADE MOUNTAIN has two new releases that includes the inaugural release of Lake County Syrah.  Artisan winemaking remains the focus at JADE MOUNTAIN.   Winemaker Alison Green Doran says that as a leader and pacesetter in age-worthy Rhône-style California wines, "we're always looking for ways to expand the limits of grapegrowing and winemaking.  With these two wines, I explore two unique styles of Syrah."

• JADE MOUNTAIN 2004 Lake County Syrah, $17: "This wine is big and plush in a New World style.  Fruit came from several vineyards in the Monterey area with a mix of soils and exposures that gives excellent fruit intensity and aromatics.   The wine is luscious and smoky raspberry, medium-full body, richly textured with balanced acidity and should age well.  Pair  with red meat, savory stews and rich paella."
• JADE MOUNTAIN 2004 Monterey Syrah $15: "This wine was created from specially chosen blocks in the Snows Lake Vineyard just north of Napa.  Grapes grow on hillsides in volcanic soils, stressing the vines and producing elegant and fruity wine in a Côte-Rôtie style.  This wine shows all the finesse of a cooler climate Syrah.   Caramel, toasty oak, plum and dark berries meet rosemary, black licorice and dried herb notes in the mid-palate.  It has a plush mouthfeel with balanced acids and ready accessibility.  Enjoy with hearty meats and roasted vegetables."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

RAYMOND Vineyard & Cellar has released two wines that reflect the RAYMOND winemaking style as one that lets the varietal speak for itself.

• RAYMOND 2004 Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay $20: "The Reserve Chardonnay is made to highlight the natural complexity of the fruit flavor and aroma of the grapes.  It opens with aromas of crisp apples, lemon and pineapple followed by vanilla and lightly toasted oak. In the mouth, this rich, medium-bodied wine opens with   green apple, grapefruit and lemon.  The crisp, balanced acidity on the finish is accented by creamy vanilla and toasted almond.  Pair with Fettuccini Alfredo, chicken teriyaki,  pizza topped with shrimp and scallions or a lobster dish."
• RAYMOND 2004 Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc $14: "The small, inner coastal valleys in the eastern portion of the Napa Valley appellation are perfectly suited for the crisp acidity and fuller fruit character that we seek for our Reserve Sauvignon Blanc.  The wine has opening aromas of orange blossoms, lemon, lime, grapefruit and mineral qualities.  Upon entry, the mouth is filled with crisp lemon and green apple followed by pear and a touch of lemongrass balanced by smooth acidity and a lingering citrus finish.  Pair with oysters, Ahi tuna, Ceviche, sushi, halibut, grilled shrimp, crab and summer salads."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

CAYMUS, BELLE GLOS, CONUMDRUM and MER SOLEIL have new offerings from the Wagner family.  These superlative wines reflect the fine winemaking skills of Chuck Wagner and his sons Joseph and Charles.  

• CAYMUS 2003 "Special Selection" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $136:  "Special Selection" recognizes the superior character of specific vineyard blocks vintage by vintage.  This 2003 bottling includes grapes grown in Napa Valley foothill soils and on a 1,400-foot hilltop site.  These varied sites enhanced the depth and complexity of our "Special Selection" beyond anything possible from a single vineyard.  We harvested each small vineyard block as fruit was fully mature.   Skin tannins are sweet, and the juice has a minimal herbaceous quality.   Low yields wines were worthy of our patience:  full-bodied, dark in color, ripe, and concentrated, with sweet tannins.  Primary aromas are black currants, blackberries, brown spices and dark-roasted coffee.  The wine is lush, expansive, rich in berry fruit with a firm “grip” that makes the wine’s texture an important part of its character.  The finish is long and classic—ripe fruit dominates."  Chuck Wagner   
• BELLE GLOS 2004 Clark & Telephone Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley $38: "This vineyard was planted “own root” to the Martini clone, early 1970s," says Vineyardist/Winemaker Joseph J. Wagner. "Such vines require great care to stay healthy; however, they produce intense, true-to-clone wines--this one known for cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and firm cranberry flavors.  The site’s soils, climate, and growing season  vineyard practices reflect strongly. In 2004, our severe selection reduced our crop to 2.2 tons per acre--small, loose, dark grape clusters that produced a deeply colored, concentrated juice.  Nine months in French oak barrels (61% new) enhanced the wine’s complexity, highlighting spice, caramel, smoke and gamey notes.  Supple tannins provide a structural backbone for the ripe, generous fruit.  Serve at 55-58 degrees F.  Remove wax cap, insert corkscrew to open.
• BELLE GLOS 2004 Taylor Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast $50: "Our Taylor Lane Vineyard is a magical location," says, Joseph Wagner.   "Just six miles from the Pacific Ocean, the area is cool, breezy and often foggy--often difficult for grapes to reach optimal riperness some years--and to increase our chances we adapted a traditional Italian trellis system that places vine shoots on a nearly horizontal canopy to help photosynthesis.  Having the fruit at eye level allows us to closely control our choices to remove clusters during the growing season (reducing crop load) and at harvest.  This trellis also lets us graze sheep without any obstructions or damage to the vines or fruit. When we planted this ten-acre plot, intensive research greatly assisted our choice of clones: Dijon 113, 114, and 115.  They produce wines of silky texture, bold berry and earth flavors and rich, dark color." (please see above for temperature and opening bottle)
• CONUNDRUM 2004 California White Table Wine $24: "Our unique blend for CONUNDRUM's distinctive character has met our test for 16 vintages," says Winemaker Jon Bolta. "The puzzle is in the range of grapes, places and growing techniques, and the way we treat each lot before the blend. Conundrum truly represents California--grapes from the Napa, Monterey, Santa Barbara and Tulare counties.  Our Napa Sauvignon Blanc emphasizes different characters: green-melon-like character at one and fresh-cut-grass character the other site.  The Muscat Canelli gives the wine floral aroma, along with some equally floral Viognier from Monterey.  Most Chardonnay and other varietals grew in Monterey County, one of California's coolest, driest growing regions that lets grapes develop deeply ripe flavors and retain great natural acidity.  We blend almost 60 different flavor layers: This vintage integrates them with aromas and flavors of peach, apricot, honeysuckle, lemon and lime, melon and pear, spicy vanilla, a creamy texture and crisp,  balancing finish.  I insist on faultless wines and the new twist top closure protects the integrity we work to achieve." 
• MERS SOLEIL 2004 Chardonnay, Central Coast $42: "This vintage is a prime example of why we say this wine has a layered character," says Charlie Wagner II.  "These differences result from variations in soils, degree of slope, and micro-climates, but are also built in by the viticultural choices we made to adapt to these variations.   Beginning in 1988, we have introduced multiple Chardonnay clones and three different trellis systems for optimal ripening.   These choices are intensified by decisions we make throughout the growing season that result in a complex, slow-ripened flavor that beautifully complements the fruit from a number of  blocks.  Mer Soleil’s signature aromas of mango, honeysuckle and citrus has notes of toasted spice (clove, nutmeg).  The flavors follow seamlessly, fulfilling the promise of the aromas and balancing ripe fruit with acidity, a hallmark of this cool-climate growing area.   Mouthfilling texture is lush and dense; the finish is long and polished yet powerful."  Charlie Wagner II 
• MER SOLEIL 2002 Late Harvest White Wine, Santa Lucia Highlands $36 (375ml) "is the third vintage where Botrytis cinerea occurred in a small block of Viognier vines at the border of our Mer Soleil Vineyard," says Charlie Wagner II.  Botrytis cinerea requires a specific combination of temperature and moisture to turn grapes into a classic dessert wine, for grapes to ripen and maintain a balancing acidity as the Botrytis concentrates flavors into a clear, nectar-like juice.  "'Late harvest' is literal for this wine: we picked the grapes on December 6 and 7--Brix at harvest was 46.  Grapes require close attention in the winery.  We pressed them twice to extract the most possible Botrytis character.    A small portion of the grapes ferments in new French oak barrels for spice notes, but most of it is in stainless steel for a slow fermentation—18 days.  During this period, the Brix dropped about 1 degree a day until it reached the level we wanted at bottling, 30 degrees.   This wine is rich, sweet and mellow—with or without dessert.  Aromas of wildflower honey, ripe figs, and apricots. Flavors of citrus, honey and apricot essence, with a note of brown spices.  Lush, dense texture, mouthfilling and sweetly ripe, balanced by a note of citrus." Charlie Wagner II   www.mersoleilvineyard.com  

        ____________________________________________________________________________

BAREFOOT WINE,  founded in1986 with just two varietals, now offers a variety of fun, flavorful and affordable wines from California.  In 2005, BAREFOOT set a milestone when it crossed the one million case sales.   In June 2006, BAREFOOT launched its new Pinot Grigio for $6.   It's a medium-bodied wine with hints of green apple, citrus, peach and flowers.  Crisp and bright, pair it with seafood, salads, melons, chicken and pastas."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

DUCKHORN VINEYARDS owners have concentrated on crafting world-class Bordeaux varietal wines since its founding in 1976.  Over the years they have been inspired  to explore new winemaking directions.  To do so, PARADUX and GOLDENEYE wineries were established under DUCKHORN Wine Company.  Each brand is crafted in its own winery, by its own winemaker, and with its own varietal focus to ensure the integrity and individuality of all three brands while sharing the same quality-driven philosophy.   Here are some new releases from DUCKHORN Wine Company.

• DUCKHORN VINEYARDS 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $60: "Pairing approximately 40 percent estate grown fruit with grapes from a carefully selected portfolio of growers, this wine is defined by its layers, versatility and balance.   The wine is complex, full bodied with elegance and integrated tannins, ample structure and a long finish and aromas and flavors of blackberry, plum, vanilla, roasted nuts and chocolate, toffee and caramel."
• DUCKHORN VINEYARDS 2003 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc $25: "Although blended to embody a broader palette of flavors, this wine nonetheless has a style all its own.  It highlights ripe, tropical elements, and mixes lush flavors and crisp acidity with good body and viscosity.  Adding 25 percent Semillon and incorporating a winemaking approach that  combines 30 percent barrel fermentation in new oak with six months of sur lie aging gives depth and layers to this wine.  It is balanced with crisp acidity, toasty oak and a rich creamy texture with aromas and flavors of pineapple, orange, lemon, green apple, fig and grapefruit with lively, long finish."
• PARADUX 2003 Napa Valley Red Wine $45:" " Now in its 10th vintage, PARADUX is a body contemporary California Red Wine.  Fusing robust flavors of Zinfandel with the grandeur of Cabernet Sauvignon, it embraces the best of both core varietals.  This innovative blend has the personality to mix naturally with great food
• GOLDENEYE 2003 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($52) has about 90% estate grapes.  It's evolving into an entirely estate-grown wine( by 2007). "Adding structural and meaty elements, 2003 was the first year for estate fruit from The Narrows Vineyard (formerly Floodgate), located 10 miles off the coast on a steep hillside with lean, Spartan soils--yielding less than one ton per acre.  The wine is complex, full bodied with a smooth mouthfeel, aromas of cherry, earth, cedar and flowers and flavors of   plum, blackberry, mushroom with a fine tannin structure, lush texture and a lingering finish."         ____________________________________________________________________________

CHATEAU POTELLE 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder Estate, Napa Valley $60 (793 cases): "Made unmistakably with full-bodied California fruit, we utilize classic winemaking techniques with finesse and elegance that are increasingly rare to find.  Our secret is to respect the personality that nature and terroir have given our grapes with minimal intervention.  The nose is complex and balanced by red berry, vanilla and liquorice and the mouth feel is rich and dense, structured with well-rounded tannins.  Enjoy with duck breast, steak and roasted chicken."     CHATEAU POTELLE 2004 Sauvignon Blanca, Mendocino $15 is a pleasure to taste. "It has exuberant fruitiness of ripe, peaches, honeydew, apple, grapefruit and more.  Grapes are from several complimentary vineyards and each brings specifics of the terroir.  Serve with most any appetizer, chicken, pasta, cheese, salads and spicy foods."

        ____________________________________________________________________________

• DRY CREEK 2003 Zinfandel (vine-age 80+ years) Sonoma County $25: "This wine is the best blend from our oldest Sonoma sites.  This vintage gives aromas and flavors of blackberry, raspberry, hints of clove and spice, dark berry, ripe cherry, plum, balanced and elegant with a long distinctive finish.'
• DRY CREEK 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $21: "Rich, exotic and distinctive, this wine has black stone fruits, ripe currant, black cherry and plum, nuances of bittersweet chocolate, spices and cedar, integrated tannins and spices and cedar combine for depth and complexity." 

        ____________________________________________________________________________

BERINGER 2002 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon marks the 25th anniversary of the program.  Winemaker Ed Spragia tells me he spent the majority of his winemaking career perfecting this wine and "yet it seems like only a moment ago that my mentor Myron Nightingale and I first entertained the idea of creating a reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.   It was 1977 and we crafted the wine from a single vineyard--our Chabot Vineyard. "  Since 1981, when Ed Sbragia first blended the most expressive components from Beringer's best vineyards for his Private Reserve Cabernet, he and Bob Steinhauer (then vineyard manager) worked to identify Napa's best sites to produce this rich, intense wine.  In 2002, Ed had six reserve-potential vineyards to draw from, choosing the best lots after vinification and aging for a final blend.  It combines the various vineyard expressions into a well-balanced, full-flavored whole.  Ed makes the sum total greater than the sum of its parts.

• BERINGER 2002 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $116: "For wine of this quality, I take a minimalist approach," Ed says.   "Winemaking partner Laurie Hook and I vinify the fruit from each vineyard separately and use gentle pump-over techniques for optimal extraction.  The we age the wines in hand-selected, custom-toasted barrels of new French Nevers oak, put the wine through 100% malolactic for added complexity and softness and age it just over two years before I select for the blend.  The wine has aromas of cassis, black cherry, cedar and dark chocolate and rich expressions of black fruit, vanilla and brown spices on the palate as ripe supple tannins linger throughout the extracted and long finish."

         ____________________________________________________________________________

KENDALL-JACKSON continues to consistently be awarded.  It was named a TOP TEN winery by, The Sacramento Bee; the Number ONE wine under $25 at the 15th Annual Wine & Spirits Restaurant Poll 2004; and the number one brand in the $8 to $20 price range.

• KENDALL-JACKSON 2005 Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir, California $14: "Black cherry fruit with velvety tannins typically found in grapes along the North Coast combine with flavors of blackberry jam and currant from Monterey County.  Oak aging adds hints of vanilla, cola and a soft, smoky finish," says Winemaker Randy Ullom.
• KENDALL-JACKSON 2005 Vintner's Reserve Merlot (Sonoma 40%, Mendocino 35%, Napa 25%) California $18: "Intense wild berry and mocha flavors are accented by black cherry, currant and anise notes.  Well structured, yet subtle tannins create a luxuriously smooth mouthfeel followed by a complex, rich and elegant finish, " says Winemaker Randy Ullom.

         ____________________________________________________________________________

RODNEY STRONG Vineyards 2004 Chalk Hill chardonnay $19: "Our founder, Rod Strong, planted chardonnay in our original Chalk Hill Vineyard in 1965 and later spearheaded the establishment of the Chalk Hill Viticultural Area in 1983," says Winemaker Rick Sayre.  "Rod recognized the region as distinct from the rest of Russian River Valley for its unique chalky white soils, which impart a subtle mineral character to wines grown there."  Barrel fermentation in new and seasoned French oak added toasty vanilla and spice components during the months of aging.  The wine is creamy and crisp, with abundant fruit character, mineral and oak flavors."                ____________________________________________________________________________

SAINT HELENA ROAD Vineyards and Winery is a new, small production winery. "We started with  60 acres of great mountain dirt on the west side of Spring Mountain, the Sonoma County side, and now have 18.5 acres of beautifully planted vineyards with an environmentally friendly, hillside winery," Ryan Maier, great-grandson of Roy J. Maier tells me.  "Our wine is real mountain fruit up front and a finish that lasts and lasts.  We grow the five Bordeaux varietals and blend them into one outstanding wine.  Our wine is a tribute to our grandfather and great-grandfather Roy J. Maier, a musician in the Paul Whiteman Orchestra during the Roaring Twenties.  After his Whiteman years, Roy designed machinery that automated the manufacturing of musical reeds for woodwind instruments.  His factory was the largest producer of musical reeds on the globe.   Our first release, ‘Roy J Maier’ 5 varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, is 504 cases, and our property sits at 1800 feet above the sea with a switch back gravel road that winds up into the back country where our precious gem is nestled--the best kept secret in the Napa/Sonoma premium wine region. My family has a passion and love for wine farming and our land means everything to us!" The Maier family: Patty and Richard and Ryan and Daniel. www.sthelenaroadvineyards.com) or www.sthelenardwinery.com 

SAINT HELENA ROAD Vineyards and Winery has introduced its "Roy J. Maier" Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux-style blend as a tribute to their ancestor.  500 cases produced, the wine was barrel aged for 20 months in 70% new French oak and described as dark ruby with aromas of cassis, violets, roasted coffee, red berries and liquorice and flavors of cassis, vanilla, liquorice, cocoa and chocolate with a good structure, spicy, long nice smooth finish with velvety tannins.   They sent me the check list below.

• Six years and one day in the making, never cut corners. . .
• The amazing pursuit of perfection. . .
• A passion driven from within. . .
• Our relentless desire day produce balanced vines. . .
• Pure mountain fruit, rich in flavors with deep ruby color. . .
• A blend of our finest Estate Produced Grapes, grown to perfection and hand selected. . .
• A remarkable blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. . .
• An elegant wine of uncommon grace. . .
• Matching excellence with value, and . . .
• Ready to drink today and cellar for years to come! 

        ____________________________________________________________________________      

           
WINE & FOOD FOUNDATION of TEXAS PRESENTED HOT TIME in the CITY: The Austin Four Seasons hotel hosted the event showcasing several comestibles and potables for the pleasure of the guests.

The Wine & Food Foundation of Texas hosted the fourth annual Hot Time in the City at the Four Seasons in conjunction with its Summer Symposium – a continuing education program designed for Texas vintners and growers.   This year’s Symposium, held at the Horseshoe Bay Marriott Resort, featured winemakers Zelma Long and Phillip Freese of Vilafonte Vineyards in South Africa.  This dynamic husband and wife team led an interactive day-long session, sharing cutting-edge knowledge on winemaking techniques and then tasting the wines.  Afterwards, the Austin Four Seasons hosted a consumer tasting to showcase Texas wines.  Thirteen Texas wineries and more than ten Central Texas chefs served unique dishes and delicious wines. "The Foundation works hard to serve Texas wineries and growers," says Susan Auler, owner of Fall Creek Vineyards and Chair of the Symposium and Hot Time in the City. "Our industry is growing at an incredible speed and we want to continue to provide wine growing expertise that's convenient and affordable.   We’re fortunate to have guests of Zelma and Phil’s caliber – they have a wealth of knowledge and experience that is worldwide in scope."  The two Vilafonte red wines, Series C and Series M, were served alongside many Texas wines: Alamosa Wine Cellars, Bell Mountain Vineyards, Driftwood Vineyards, Fall Creek Vineyards, Haak Vineyards & Winery, Kiepersol Estates Vineyard & Winery, Llano Estacado Winery, McReynolds Winery, Peregrine Hill, Pleasant Hill Winery, Spicewood Vineyards, Stone House Vineyards and Texas Hills Vineyard.  Over 30  wines were offered to tasters.   Eleven guest chefs cooked scrumptious summer fare.  Participants included:  Austin Catering, Amuse Bouche Catering, August Es, Café Caprice, Café Josie, Capitol Brasserie, Flemings, Four Seasons Hotel (Chef Elmar Prambs), Houlihan’s, Teo and Vin Bistro.  Tempting dishes included Cuban Braised Pork with Coconut Rice (Café Caprice), Thai Chile Wings with Asian Slaw (Houlihan’s) and Steak Frites (Capitol Brasserie).    Proceeds of Hot Time in the City benefit the mission of The Wine & Food Foundation – to support education and research in food and wine throughout the state, including the annual Symposium.      

Book Review: A Wine Journey along the Russian River by Steve Heimoff: "Entertaining and well written, this comprehensive look at a very important wine region provides the sweep of history and personal portraits of key players," says writer Anthony Dias Blue.   A Wine Journey along the Russian River takes readers on an intimate and enlightening tour of one of California's most diverse and accomplished wine areas.  Author Heimoff travels along the Russian River to talk to growers and vintners from the Cabernet country of Alexander Valley to the Pinot Noir producers of the Sonoma Coast.  This first comprehensive look at the natural history and winemaking practices of the region brings Russian River into the exalted company of great wine rivers of the world--the Loire, the Rhine, the Rhine,  the Mosel and the Douro.  Part wine guidebook, part history and geology and part travelogue of the author's adventures in the wine country, the book is essential reading for wine lovers fortunate enough to be familiar with the region and for those who have never visited the area.  University of California Press,  296 pages, 6 x 8"s, 20 b/w phptpgraphs, 1 map, $24.95 cloth, www.UCPRESS.EDU