The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  75th Edition
January 17, 2006

TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $Best Buy

• KORBEL sparkling wines in every style: Brut, Rosé, Chardonnay, Natural and Blanc de Noirs $10 to $14$
• ZD 2004 Chardonnay, California $32--always a favorite of mine!
• HERZOG (please see story in NEWS) Special Reserve 2001 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley $27
• ST. FRANCIS 2001 Reserve Merlot, Behler Vineyard, Sonoma Valley $43
• DALLAS CONTE 2001 Merlot, Chile $10$
• RODNEY STRONG 2001 Merlot, Alexander Valley $26
• DUCKHORN 2001 Merlot, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley $70
• VERAMONTE 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Chile $9$
• WYNNS 2004 Coonawarra Shiraz, Australia 416
• MOON MOUNTAIN 2004 Chardonnay (78% Russian River Valley) $13
• STUHLMULLER 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley $34
• THOMAS FOGARTY 2004 Gewurztraminer, Monterey County $17
• RED (by St. Francis) 2002 Sonoma blend of red wine $12 (please see New Releases below)
• JOSEPH PHELPS 2003 Le Mistrail (red blend, see below) Monterey County $30
• ACACIA 2004 Chardonnay, Carneros $20
• KENDALLL-JACKSON 2004 Vintner's Reserve Sauvignon Blanc $10$
  

WINERY OF THE MONTH: RAMOS-PINTO Portos--I visited Portugal for a lovely tour and tasting with Jorge Ramos at the lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia.  Please see my story at the conclusion of the Newsletter. 

SPLURGE WINE OF THE MONTH: MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE 2004 S.L.C. (Select Lot Collection) Icewine (Riesling) 375 ml $85, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada.  Please see story in New Releases.

VALENTINE Ports, Chocolates and Taittangier Pink Champagne: This special day deserves special wines and chocolates.  Austinite and chocolate-master Tom Pedersen has created a truly unique confectionery, Kakawa Whole Bean Chocolate.  You've never tasted anything better.   Handsomely packaged in vibrant crimson red with a distinctive label, this chocolatier has captured the essence of chocolate in delectable morsels of the finest of pure cocoa beans covered in layers of chocolate.  Tom reports, "We produce superlative chocolate using only the finest cocoa beans (the top 5% in the world) and chocolates made from those fine-flavor cocoa beans."   To order, please see  http://www.cocoapuro.com/   There are many Ports to choose among to enjoy with Kakawa Whole Bean Chocolate for VALENTINE'S Day, depending on your preference for style: Ruby, Vintage Character, Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), Vintage, Tawny, and  Single Quinta Estate. (please see explanations in story at end of Newsletter).  Port suggestions include:

• Ramos-Pinto Vintage 2000 Porto $64
• Cockburn's 2001 Single Quinta Porto, Quinta dos Canais $56
• W. & J. Graham's aged 20 years Tawny Porto $50
• Cockburn's 20 Years Old Tawny Port $50
• Smith Woodhouse 10 Years of age Tawny Porto $27
• Cockburn's 10 Years Old Tawny Port $30
• Ramos-Pinto 10 Years Old Tawny Port $30
• Cockburn's 1998 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port $29
• Fonseca 2000 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port $22
• Ramos-Pinto 1998 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Porto $24
• Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port $22
• Croft 1999 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port $20
• Ramos-Pinto 20 Year Old Tawny, Quinta Do Bom Retiro Porto $75
• Dow's Trademark Finest Reserve Porto $17
• Cockburn's Special Reserve Porto $16
• Ramos-Pinto "The Collector" Vintage Character Porto $21
• Croft  "Distinction" Special Reserve Port $17
• Delaforce "His Eminence's Choice" Port $23

Another irresistible choice is a new release, INNISKILLIN Cabernet Franc Icewine. It is intensely aromatic of strawberry, baked rhubard and spiced apple cobbler, a rich echoing of cranberry, spices and fresh acidity.  suggested retail $100 for 375ml.

And another irresistable bubbly is Taittinger. Champagne Taittinger Prestige Rose Brut ($70) and the Champagne Taittinger Comtes De Champagne 1999 Rose Brut ($200).

NEWS

CALIFORNIA VINTNERS PREDICTIONS FOR 2005 WINE HARVEST: The WINE INSTITUTE reported that the dominant theme for the 2005 California winegrape harvest was high quality and quantity, a rare and fortunate combination, as vintners around the state all described the incoming fruit as “outstanding,” “exceptional,” and “plentiful.” State Agriculture officials estimated the harvest at 3.15 million tons of wine type grapes in October, which would make it the second largest crop ever for California behind the record 3.32 million tons harvested in the year 2000.  “This year’s crop yields are generally 10-15 percent larger than normal, produced from a cool year that is being compared to the outstanding 1997 vintage,” said Robert Steinhauer, consulting viticulturist for Foster’s Wine Estates Americas who is finishing his 39^th harvest in California’s wine industry this year. Steinhauer provided a statewide summary of the 2005 winegrape harvest at Wine Institute’s Vintage Press Conference at Fort Mason in San Francisco. 

HANDLEY CELLARS in Anderson Valley has received organic certification.  It has become a member of the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), received the recognition for its 30 acres of estate vineyards of Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Gewürztraminer. Partner and winemaker Milla Handley look forward to offering vintage 2005 wines made from organically-farmed grapes.

CENTRAL COAST WINE CLASSIC announces its 22nd annual wine event July 13-16, 2006 with events in San Luis Obispo and at Shell Beach.  There will be cooking demonstrations, barrel tastings, a cycling competition, several symposia on wines that include Pinot Noir, Spanish wines, Bordeaux blends, cheese and wine pairings, Champagne, etc.  Wineries will host dinners and one features Le Montrachet.   There is the Rare & Fine Wine & Lifestyle Auction; the Annual Cooking Demonstration and Luncheon with a Celebrity Chef, and a Reserve Wine tasting event.   For information (805) 544-1285 * Fax 595-2742; email: archie@slonet.org and see http://www.centralcoastwineclassic.org/    This event is consistently the most fun-filled, interesting, diverse, and thorough of  wine events--I highly recommend it.

WINE & FOOD FOUNDATION OF TEXAS presented the Third Annual Big Reds & Bubbles, a celebration of big red wines, champagne and sparkling wines and cuisine at the Driskill Hotel in Austin.  It was splendid!!  The wines were stellar and chefs put forward their delicious best for a truly lovely evening.   Champagnes Deutz, Louis Roederer, Mumm, Perrier Jouet, Veuve Clicquot and sparkling wines Scharffenberger, Domaine Chandon and red wines such as Clos du Bois Marlstone and Briarcrest, Beringer Privet Reserve, Bonny Doon Le Cigare, Cain Concept, Geyser Peak Meritage, Napanook and Stags' Leap Winery Petite Syrah contributed to a delightful evening.  Amuse Bouche Catering served Filet Mignon with a Mustard Garlic Sauce; the Driskill served Chocolate Boucheron Cheesecake, Jeffrey's featured Yellowfin Tuna and Foie Gras Brochettes; Satay served Vegetable Dumplings with Spicy Peanut Sauce; Wink served Braised Boar Belly with Dried Cherry Sauce; Whole Foods Market served Smoked Salmon Cake with Lemon Caper Aioli, Zoot served Nantucket Bay Scallops with Brown Butter and Louie's 106 featured Veal Osso Bucco and Carmelized Onion Risotto Cake.   The organization is a public charity dedicated to education and research in the culinary and viticultural arts.  This year's sponsors were Tag Heuer and Russel Korman Fine Jewelry and Watches.  Inquire about upcoming events and membership at http://www.winefoofdoundation.org/ and (512) 327-7555, Rebecca Robinson or Amanda Morris. 

GRAYSON COUNTY COLLEGE has announced its Spring 2006 class schedule for Viticulture and Enology.  For information: http://www.grayson.edu/ or contact Cindy Perez for program or registration information, perez@grayson.edu or (903) 463-8621 or fax (903) 463-5284.

KENDALL-JACKSON Vice President Communications George Rose answered my questions about K-J wines: "The entire lineup of K-J wines will be 100% Jackson Estate Grown at some point in the near future.  Currently all of the Grand Reserve and Highland Estates wines are 100%.    The Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc are 100%.  The remaining Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot will be 100% beginning with the 2004 vintage. The 2004 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon will be released in early 2007. This truly is a new road for Kendall-Jackson--all wines Estate Grown!"

YORKVILLE CELLARS, Mendocino County, CA reports mammoth rain.   "In Yorkville during the nine days starting with Christmas day we received 18.1 inches of rain. We regularly get our share of rain, so even the 4.5 inches which fell on New Year's Eve was not a record as our wettest day was measured at 7.3 inches on December 12, 1995. Our advanced--math sons, Ben & Leo, calculated that 18.1 inches of rain over our 110-acre property equals 54 million gallons.  That amount of liquid equates to nearly 23 million cases of wine; about what Gallo Wine, the largest winery in the world, produces in a year. Trivia games, but what else can you do when it's doing nothing but raining outside? "reports owner Ed Wallo.  http://www.yorkvillcellars.com/

McWILLIAM'S  WINES awarded.  McWILLIAM'S  WINES received at the 2005 Royal Perth Wine Show: one trophy, two gold, two silver and 15 bronze medals.   At the 2005 Griffin Wine Show, McWILLIAM'S  WINES received one trophy, seven gold, 10 silver and 32 bronze medals.  http://www.mcwilliamswines.com/

KORBEL Brut Rosé is a fine choice for Valentine's Day celebrations. The delicate pink and lively bubbles promise delicious, sparkling drinking. (please see below)

MUSHROOMS Information is an excellent source of  information for this tasty edible.  There are several recipes that sound delicious and nutritional.  Contact: http://www.mushroomsinfo.com/

HERZOG WINE CELLARS Completes First Harvest at New Winery in Southern California: 2005 was a milestone year for the Herzog Winemaking Family. Fifty-seven years after losing their family winery to a repressive communist government in Eastern Europe, the Herzogs have finally attained a long-held dream in California with their new winery. "I still can’t believe it," said an emotional David Herzog, who arrived in America in 1948 at age 3, along with his parents and siblings, “not only is our family’s winemaking heritage carrying on, it continues to grow and improve at every turn.” The family had survived the harrowing years of World War II only to be driven out of Europe three years after reclaiming their winery from the Nazis.
"In Europe, we made fine dry wines for generations," David recalls.  But when the family arrived in New York, they discovered a new wine world based on Concord grapes and sweet wines. The hard-working family built a "traditional" New York wine business that is still thriving on the East Coast.  But the urge to make premium vinifera wines led them to California 20 years ago, where they used independent contractors to bottle their wines.  Now, the Herzogs have a home of their own at the southern gateway to the Central Coast, just 30 minutes south of Santa Barbara and one hour north of Los Angeles. “Naturally, our goal is to produce better wines with every vintage and to constantly seek out the tools required to achieve that goal.   Designing our new home from the ground up was the perfect opportunity to fine tune our winemaking process,” said Herzog winemaker Joe Hurliman.  With a large temperature controlled barrel room and rows of shiny new stainless steel tanks lining the cellar, Herzog winemaker Joe Hurliman was ready for the 2005 vintage. It proved to be both challenging and rewarding for winemakers throughout the state. "Grape yields in vineyards everywhere were up 25 to 50 percent," Joe said. "The good news is that our winery may be new, but our cellar crew has worked together for years and couldn’t be more qualified to produce great wines. We have a seasoned team, even though we are working in a new environment.
That said, the quality of the grapes arriving at the crush pad was high.  After a cool, wet spring, a long, sunny fall left the grapes plenty of "hang time" to develop the ripe flavors required to make fine wine. According to Joe, “Our red wines such as Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Zinfandel were showing extraordinary development at an early stage in the fermentation process.” This year, for the first time, the winery also made a small quantity of Pinot Noir— known for its affinity to the cool-climate growing conditions found in the neighboring Central Coast vineyards. Within the new winemaking facility Herzog Wine Cellars has also opened a new restaurant called Tierra Sur adjacent to its spacious winery tasting room. Although only a few months old, Tierra Sur’s reputation for top notch Mediterranean-inspired cuisine has grown dramatically through word of mouth and glowing reviews in the press, and reservations are strongly recommended.   Both the restaurant and visitors center have been enjoying a parade of wine and food-loving guests surprised and happy to find a winery so close to Los Angeles, yet at the gateway to California’s Central Coast wine region. For information, call JP Webb: 805.983.1560, ext. 315  805.983.1775 (fax)  jpwebb@herzogwinecellars.com

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)

MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE, a leader in the rapidly emerging Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, Canada,  has introduced the U.S. to its Icewines.    MISSION HILL's first exports are three 2004 Icewines, among the world's rarest and most expensive wines, and all are VQA (Vintners' Quality Alliance, comparable to France's Appellation d'Origin Controllée) and all three are Rieslings.  They are MISSION HILL S.L.C. (Select Lot Collection), available in 375 ml bottle for $85; Reserve, in 375 ml for $60; and Five Vineyards, in 187 ml bottles for $20.   According to the Internet free encyclopedia Wikipedia: Ice wine is a type of dessert wine produced from grapes that have been frozen.  The sugars do not freeze, but the water does, so the result is an unusually concentrated, often very sweet wine. . . .   and the freezing happens on the vine.  Natural ice wines require a hard frost (roughly -8 °C, 17 °F) to occur sometime after the grapes are ripe, which means that the grapes may hang on the vine for several months.  If a frost does not come quickly enough, the grapes may rot and the crop will be lost.  If the frost is too severe, no juice can be extracted.  Unlike other unfortified dessert wines, grapes for ice wine tend not to be affected by Botrytis cinerea.  When the grapes are free of Botrytis, they are said to have come in "clean."  Ice wine production in Canada is regulated by VCQ.  Canada has unusually consistent freezes in winter, and has become the largest icewine producer in the world. . . .  Since the fruit must be pressed while still frozen, pickers often must work at night harvesting the grapes within a few hours, while cellar workers must work in unheated spaces. Because of the lower yield of grapes and the difficulty of processing, ice wines are more expensive than table wines.   The high sugar levels lead to a slower-than-normal fermentation.  They are often sold in half-bottles (375 ml).

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• LAKE SONOMA Winery 2004 Fume Blanc, Dry Creek Valley $16 (only 1, 570 cases): "When everything goes right, the difficult can look easy.  One result is this Fume Blanc of superb fruit, complexity and balance.  Grapes fermented in cool stainless steel tanks to preserve the vibrant fruit.  Detailed attention was given at every step--from morning harvesting and crushing to blanketing the juice with inert gas to preserve the fruit character.  No barrel or malolactic fermentation.   Aromas and flavors of lemon, lime, honeydew, gooseberry and herbs combine with a perfect weight on the palate that shows polish and balance, smoothness and crispness through a lingering finish.  Enjoy with shellfish."

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Founded in 1972, JOSEPH PHELPS Vineyards is an independent, estate-based winery located outside of St. Helena. Perched on a knoll in bucolic Spring Valley, the massive redwood winery overlooks vineyard-studded hills, the town of St. Helena and the Mayacamas Mountains to the west.  After years of studying the complex relationship between wine quality and place, and understanding the importance of "terroir," Phelps has developed estate-owned vineyards in the premiere growing regions of Stag's Leap, Rutherford, Oakville, Oak Knoll and the eastern foothills of Napa. In Sonoma County, an ambitious project was undertaken in 1999 to purchase land and develop vineyards along the western frontier of the Sonoma Coast, and today Phelps has 80 acres of Pinot Noir and 20 acres of Chardonnay planted in Freestone. Construction of a small winery in the midst of the Freestone vineyards is currently in the design phase.    Varietals produced annually at Phelps include Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Insignia (one of California's most successful first growth luxury blends), Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, several Rhône-style wines, and a luscious dessert wine made from Scheurebe.   Annual production fluctuates between 65-80,000 cases, and it is a source of pride that 90% of all wine produced comes from estate-owned vineyards.

• JOSEPH PHELPS 2003 Mistral, Napa Valley $30: "The blend is 57% Syrah, 36% Grenache, 5% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouschet. Estate-grown fruit from Monterey County comprised 96% of the blend, with the balance from independent growers. Grapes were harvested at an average 25.1º Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged for 19 months in a combination of new French oak barrels (40%) and two-year-old French oak (60%). The wine was blended and bottled in June, 2005.   As Le Mistral becomes more Syrah based, flavors become more concentrated and intense. The 2003 bottling is saturated with aromas of blueberry, blackberry, roasted meat and black tea. The palate is balanced and full of ripe fruit flavors with hints of licorice and spice. Sweet, integrated tannins lead to a lingering, full-bodied finish.
• JOSEPH PHELPS 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley $24: "Grapes were harvested at an average 23.0º Brix, fermented sur lees for six months in a combination of new French oak barrels (15%) and 3-4 year old French oak (85%), then blended and bottled in May, 2005. In order to achieve optimal balance, timing is especially critical when harvesting Sauvignon Blanc. The 2004 vintage was unusually early; in fact the first block of Sauvignon Blanc came in on August 11, exactly 11 months after the same block was picked in 2003. The result is a wine with citrus blossom aromas, beautifully balanced fruit flavors with notes of mineral, and a fresh, medium-bodied finish.
• JOSEPH PHELPS 2002 Insignia, Napa Valley $140: "The blend for Insignia is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 7% Petite Verdot and 1% Malbec primarily from estate-owned vineyards in Stag's Leap and Rutherford, with additional fruit coming from independent growers. Grapes were harvested between Sept. 20 - Oct. 17 at an average 25.4º Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged 23 months in new 60-gallon French oak barrels before being blended and bottled in January and February, of 2005.    The 2002 Insignia is full of black cherry jam and allspice aromas, with luscious notes of boysenberry, ripe plums, toasted oak and tobacco. The exceptionally elegant mouthfeel coats the palate with layer after layer of tannin, followed by a lengthy, textured finish containing sweet oak notes and a hint of blackberry."                __________________________________________________________________________

BEAULIEU Executive Winemaker Joel Aiken tells me that "All of our Reserve level Cabernet-based wines are vinified in a similar manner. Grapes were hand picked at optimal maturity and crushed into stainless steel fermenting tanks. Fermentation lasted 7-10 days, with peak juice temperatures reaching 85°F. The must was gently pumped over/punched down 2-3 times per day to carefully extract aroma and flavor components. Pressed at dryness, the individual vineyard lots were transferred to a variety of barrels for malolactic fermentation and extended aging.

• BEAULIEU 2002 George de Latour Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $95: " Deep black cherry, black olive and complex, mineral-licorice aromas reflect classic Rutherford. One of the most powerful Georges de Latour Cabernets in recent years, the dark berry flavors are framed by powerful, rich tannins. Well balanced and full-bodied, the finish features the dense minerality and structure typical of Clones 6 and 4.  Pairs well with roast beef, leg of lamb, Fontina, Stilton or Montgomery's Cheddar cheese."
• BEAULIEU 2002 Reserve Tapestry, Napa Valley $50: "Classic black-ruby color typical of this blend. Ripe, brambly, coffee and black cherry aromas showcase the varietal, while black olive and dark cocoa scents suggest the wine’s Rutherford origin. Medium full-body and firm structure dominant, with the cherry-plum and herb Merlot adding nuance in the finish. Chewy tannins, fine minerality, with vanilla oak-spice adding an elegant touch of sweetness.  You can enjoy this now with everything from grilled lamb to dry-rubbed baked salmon.
• BEAULIEU 2002 Reserve Dulcet, Napa Valley $40: "Deep ruby-purple with strong black pepper and currant aromas, hints of violets, and vanilla-spice oak accented by mint. The Syrah gives distinct blackberry, licorice and cocoa flavors, complementing the currant and tobacco character of the Cabernet. Medium full-bodied, full ripe tannins and moderate acidity, enjoy with grilled meats,  roast duck and Dry Jack, Manchego or aged Gouda cheeses.                __________________________________________________________________________

DON EDUARDO makes ultra-premium tequilas, from 100% blue agave from Tequila Villae in Jalisco, Mexico--one of the only designated places in the world for producing the finest tequilas.  The tequilas are distilled with pride by the Orendain family, members of a small group of tequila-making experts.    The brand is named in honor or Don Eduardo Orendain, one of the oldest names in the tequila industry.   He was the third generation (one of five) of Orendain tequila producers. These award-winning tequilas can be enjoyed in cocktails. These three tequilas were reviewed by my student and friend Chris Davis, my tequila authority.

• DON EDUARDO Silver, Jalisco, Mexico $40: "A solid agave aroma followed with citrus and a hint of sugar.  The taste was very ‘front palate’ with flavors not really flowing to the back.  Again, agave and citrus dominated.  There was what I call the silver burn, that is the burn associated with silver tequila resulting from it being unaged.  However, the silver burn was much lighter than what I have experienced from other producers, which I think is desirable.  The structure and weight were both light, even for a silver.  The silver is triple distilled." Chris Davis
• DON EDUARDO Anejo, Jalisco, Mexico $45; "The anejo is aged in American white oak bourbon barrels for two years before bottling.  This tequila picks up a hue similar to sauvignon blanc during aging.  A solid agave aroma is present.  After trying the reposado, this smells great.  There is a slight citrus in the background, and maybe a little spice.   Tasting gives way to a more mid-palate beginning.  It is very smooth, and has no burn.  It has a good agave taste, and begins with a slight peppery finish that ends with a detectable tart feeling.  Overall, good." Chris Davis
• DON EDUARDO Reposado, Jalisco, Mexico $42: "Double distilled, and aged in pine barrels from Oregon, the reposado has a light pale yellow hue gained during aging.   A quick sniff gives way to an almost lemon-citrus smell.  It lacks some of the agave flavor I’d hoped to taste, but I was surprised by how smooth it was.  The aging reduced the burn/heat quite a bit.  Again, very front palate, and light in weight.  Flavors are hard to discern, which may be the result from the pine barrels (something I don’t think I have been exposed to in the past)." Chris Davis

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VALLEY OF THE MOON reports that beyond aroma and flavor elements, wine benefits from using small oak barrels for aging.  The winemaker says that aging red wines in small oak barrels benefits in two ways--"it allows slow oxygenation through barrel walls, which helps the wine to soften and lose astringency, and it enhances the subtle concentration of  wine." Valley of the Moon welcomes visitors daily to its historic wood and stone cellar in the heart of Sonoma Valley.

• VALLEY OF THE MOON 2002 Syrah, Sonoma County $16: "Aromas and flavors of cassis, blackberry, vanilla and anise, impressive weight and solid tannin structure for a full, firm impression, finishes delicately with smoothness and complexity."
• VALLEY OF THE MOON 2003 Zinfandel, Sonoma County $16: "Rich and ripe aromas and flavors of fresh boysenberry, raspberry and hints of toast and caramel, juicy, jammy, blackberry, blueberry, plum complex with nutmeg and close spices, full, smooth, lingering finish."

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• EDNA VALLEY VINEYARD 2004 Pinot Gris, Paragon Vineyard, Edna Valley $18: "We pressed whole clusters, mostly fermented in small French oak, added 3% Chardonnay for fullness in mouth, aromas and flavors of peach, apple, honey, touch lemon and spices from barrel on lingering finish."
• EDNA VALLEY VINEYARD 2004 Chardonnay, Paragon Vineyard, Edna Valley $14: "We balance barrel fermentation, malolactic and lees stirring with new oak for aromas and flavors of vanilla, sweet spice, peach and citrus, subtle mineral, fullness on palate and length of finish."                __________________________________________________________________________

• STERLING VINEYARDS 2002 SVR, Napa Valley $50: "Bordeaux varietals have been the focus of STERLING since its founding.  Last year we introduced the SVR, a classic Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc.  The release revived the historical blend produced by Sterling from 1986 to 1996.  The 2002 SVR continues the tribute to our heritage with fruit harvested from our legendary Three Palms Vineyard, Oak Knoll, Rutherford and Bear Flats."
• STERLING VINEYARDS 2004 Chardonnay, Napa Valley $17: "Barrel fermented at 50% to maintain fruit and develop overall complexity, aromas and flavors of pears, apple, hints of toasty vanilla and apple pie spices and jasmine, rich, creamy and long finish."                 __________________________________________________________________________

FOSTER's GROUP is a premium global multi-beverage company with a total portfolio of beer, wine, spirits, cider and non-alcohol beverages.  Foster's Wine Estates (FWE) leads the world’s premium wine company with an unrivalled portfolio of brands including BERINGER, CHATEAU SOUVERAIN, LINDEMANS, CELLAR No. 8, WOLF BLASS, PENFOLDS, ROSEMOUNT, MATUA Valley, WYNNSs Coonawarra Estate and CASTELLO di GABBIANO and many others.  FWE combines the worldwide wine supply chain operations (winemaking, viticulture and production facilities) of the former Beringer Blass Wine Estates and Southcorp Wines businesses along with their global wine brand marketing activities and sales and marketing operations in the Americas, Europe, Middle East & Africa and Asia.  FWE's international wine portfolio includes more than 50 individual brands of sparkling, table and fortified wines, controlling more than 15,000 hectares of vineyards in the premium wine growing regions of Australia, California, New Zealand, Italy and France and operates more than 20 wineries worldwide.

• CHATEAU SOUVERAIN 2004 Chardonnay, Sonoma county $17: "Aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, pear, tropical fruit, citrus and toasted almonds, luscious palate, creamy, round and rich, creme brulee and cinnamon spice, long, complex finish."
• CELLAR No. 8 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $10: "Aromas and flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, cassis and complex layers of spice and black pepper integrate with black olive with a rounded mid palate."
• CELLAR No. 8 2003 Merlot, California $10: "Aromas and flavors of plum, berry fruits, black cherry with notes of clove, currant and subtle spices, with velvety flavors of caramel, roasted coffee and brown spice with fine-grained tannins."
• BERINGER FOUNDERS' ESTATE 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $11: "Bursts with bright cassis, black fruit and sweet brown spice with a touch of mint and juicy mouthfeel, balanced with structured tannins and nuance of chocolate."
• BERINGER FOUNDERS' ESTATE 2004 Chardonnay, California $11: "I like to think of BERINGER FOUNDERS' ESTATE 2003 Chardonnay as an expression of California in a bottle.  This wine has layers of character and pockets of personality all captured under a sunny sky, and has fresh stone fruit, tangelo and melon flavors, medium body, crisp style and smooth finish."
• WYNNS Coonawarra Estate 2004 Riesling, Australia $15: "Aromas and flavors of lemon sherbet, grapefruit and blossoms, concentrated yet soft, a great aperitif with excellent persistence and palate cleanser for spicy foods."
• WYNNS Coonawarra Estate 2004 Shiraz, Australia $16: "Aromas of flowers and flavors of raspberries, creamy vanilla and chocolate, toasty oak, silky tannins, plump and generous, spicy clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg, a medium body that suits well lamb dishes, beef and duck."
• WYNNS Coonawarra Estate 2002 Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot, Australia $16: "Nose of dark fruits, notes of mint,florals and spice, an intense palate yet soft oak and dark cherry notes, soft tannins, enjoy with beef, game and lamb."

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• THOMAS FOGARTY Winery and Vineyards 2003 Chardonnay,Santa Cruz Mountains $25: "This wine has loads of minerals, fresh apples and cream on the nose.   The palate shows minerality, stoniness, as well as apple and pear flavors, some cream and toast accompany the luxuriously textured finish."
• THOMAS FOGARTY Winery and Vineyards 2002 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains $30: "Vineyard maturity and a reasonably warm year resulted in most of the 2002 Pinot Noir being bigger and correspondingly fatter and happier than any previously made here.  It's full of texture, red fruits, spice yet immediately accessible with power."
• THOMAS FOGARTY Winery and Vineyards 2004 Gewürztraminer, Monterey County $17: "Delightfully dry, full of tropical fruit, white flowers and spice, incredibly intense fruit flavors balanced by well-integrated acidity."

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ST. FRANCIS WINERY announced a new RED wine.  Winemaker Tom Mackey, named international winemaker of the year, has firmly established St. Francis as a wine property of big red wines.  RED ($12), the name of his new creation, he says delivers Sonoma County fruit and  high quality at a palatable price in a sophisticated wine that's easy to drink and like."  In a case of twelve bottles of RED,  each one has a different label.  Mackey says that RED is "a succulent blend of Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese that expresses its Sonoma County heritage.  It is a full-bodied wine saturated with ripe red fruit flavors and spicy aromas.  A great versatile red that is perfect for grilled foods."

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HANDLEY CELLARS has released two Pinot Noirs.

• HANDLEY CELLARS 2003 Pinot Noir, Mendocino County $16: "This wine comes from two appellations: Anderson Valley and Potter Valley, which is inland and more removed from the moderating influence of the Pacific Ocean.  Warmer summers ripen these grapes two weeks earlier than in Anderson Valley to add soft tannins and forward fruit to the blend.  It has aromas and flavors of plum, raspberry, hint of leather, juicy Bing cherries, rich and flavorful for casual weeknight suppers."   It won a Silver medal Orange County Fair.
• HANDLEY CELLARS 2003 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County $25: "This wine blends ten different valley vineyards, each vinified separately.   Grapes were destemmed and lightly crushed into open-top stainless steel tanks to ferment.  The must was pressed after 10 to 14 days, then settled before racking to French oak barrels (30% new).  It has aromas and flavors of cherry and spice, violet accents, anise and a touch of vanilla, rich earthy flavors that suit veal and lamb dishes and ratatouille." 

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KING ESTATE reports that the 2003 growing season and harvest proved to many why Oregon weather is often called an enigma. Oregon vineyard managers and winemakers saw a bit of everything this year – from frost threats in spring to scorching August heat and a spot of rain during harvest.  All things considered, the overall crop yields were on par with past years, and the fruit quality was extremely high.  The winter and spring provided 9-13 inches less rainfall than ‘normal’, continuing the streak of three years of low rain measurements.  Our non-irrigated/dry-farmed vineyards receive organic compost to preserve moisture, supplement vineyard nutrients, and encourage biotic life in the soil.   This critical soil amendment program, combined with selective cover-crop cultivation and crop-load management, paid huge dividends as the vineyards showed no signs of vine stress during the key berry ripening process. KING ESTATE 2003 Signature Pinot Noir, Oregon $25 winemaker says: bright garnet and ruby clarity and brilliance; aromas of black cherry, blackberry, Bing cherry, dried rose petal, strawberry jam & sweet oak spice, and the mouthfeel is round, rich, and silky. Blueberry, black cherry, spice and oak with balanced acidity and bright velvety tannins with a nice lingering finish.

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· IRON HORSE VINEYARDS 2002 Wedding Cuvée, Sonoma County Green Valley $34, Joy tells me, is their best-known sparkling wine.  "It is without doubt the most romantic of our Sparklings.  Made predominantly from Pinot Noir (94%), it has an enchanting peach-flesh color.  This vintage is more elegant than previous years.  It is wonderfully vibrant and dangerously easy to drink.   Pair it with most anything, but it is especially good with Caesar salad, crab or shrimp Louie, poached salmon and anything to do with  mushrooms."

· IRON HORSE VINEYARDS 1997 Blanc de Blancs, Sonoma County Green Valley $34 is 100% Chardonnay.  "This wine is the most distinctive and elegant of the Iron Horse Sparkling wines.  It aged six years plus on the yeast.   It is ethereal, like drinking a cloud," Joy says.  "It seems to effervesce away in your mouth and tastes like (among other flavors) a perfectly browned slice of sourdough toast.  Pair it with oysters, smoked salmon, and is delicious with melon and prosciutto."

· IRON HORSE VINEYARDS 2000 Russian Cuvée, Sonoma County Green Valley $30commemorates the style of wine we made for the historic Reagan-Gorbachev Summit Meetings, which ended the Cold War.  It is the sweetest of our cuvées, right on the edge of the Brut level dry.  The higher dosage makes the wine richer and more floral.  It is delicious as an aperitif and can also be served with dessert.  IT was designed as toasting wine, but is excellent with foie gras and many Asian dishes."

· IRON HORSE VINEYARDS 2000 Classic Vintage Brut Sonoma County Green Valle$30, Joy says, is bold, rich, creamy and delicious.  This is the most classic of our Sparklings.  It is a traditional blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Its refinement and finesse send off memory bells that say 'Champagne,' though the bright fruit is unmistakably Sonoma County.  It is vintage quality in every sense of the word.  Pair with peanuts, popcorn, prosciutto and Parmesan cheese, tempura and Sushi."

· IRON HORSE VINEYARDS 1996 Blanc de Blancs LD, Sonoma County Green Valley $60 is 100% Chardonnay and has no malolactic.  The LD stands for Late Disgorged, meaning aged longer, which makes the wine richer and creamier.  Made only in exceptional vintages, the blend is composed of our favorite lots, strictly cuvée or free-run juice.  This vintage has a burst of juiciness at its core--like a lemon drop, and seems to effervesce as you drink it.  The aftertaste is more like an after-glow.  This wine is our tete de cuvée--our top of the line.    Pair with Maine lobster, truffles, corn cakes and guinea fowl with morel risotto."

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STUHLMULLER VINEYARDS is tucked into a unique location in the southwestern edge of the Alexander Valley where three of Northern Sonoma County's top appellations come together, virtually a stone's throw from Chalk Hill and the Russian River Valley.   It is situated on a geological site that is part river bench and part hillside.  Here the vines benefit from gravel, clay, and volcanic soils, as well as rocky, uplifted benchland soils.  After years of selling fruit, in 1996 STUHLMULLER VINEYARDS began making limited amounts of estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.  The two new releases are STUHLMULLER VINEYARDS 2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon $35 and STUHLMULLER VINEYARDS 2004 Estate Chardonnay $23.  

• STUHLMULLER VINEYARDS 2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon $35: "Like 2001, 2002 is being recognized as an excellent vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley, producing wines with great color, concentration and intensity. Slightly lower than normal yields helped to articulate the varietal character of the grapes, offering a wealth of flavors. Benefiting from moderate summer temperatures, no fall rains and a spell of warm, ripening weather during harvest, 2002 produced wines recognized by winemakers, growers and consumers alike, as exceptional and age-worthy.  Our winemaking: During mid-October harvest, we picked by block, in multiple passes when necessary to ensure optimum fruit maturity.  In the winery, the clusters were gently de-stemmed, cold-soaked the crushed grapes for three days, and for fermentation we used a mix of open-top tanks with manual punching-down of the cap, and closed-top tanks where the must was pumped over, to help retain fruit intensity.   The open-top tanks were utilized to create better palate texture.  Each lot was left on the skins for approximately two weeks. The finished wine, composed almost entirely of free-run juice, was drained from the tank and racked to French oak barrels, where the wines underwent malolactic fermentation. Our 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon was barrel aged in 65 percent new French oak for 24 months.  The wine is leggy and deep garnet in color, our 2002 Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon displays aromas of old rose, black plum and sweet oak. On the palate, the flavors are of ripe blackberry, cassis, candied violet, cinnamon and cardamom. The wine finishes smooth and balanced, with supple tannins and a hint of cedar and dark fruit."
• STUHLMULLER VINEYARDS 2004 Estate Chardonnay $23: "2004 was a near perfect vintage producing great wines across the varietal spectrum here in the Alexander Valley.  An early rain-free spring spurred sooner-than-expected vine growth and bud break.  These factors, in combination with moderate summer temperatures and light crops, led to one of the earliest Sonoma County harvests in a decade.  For our 2004 Estate Chardonnay we used 100 percent indigenous yeasts to create a wine with elegant texture and weight. The wine was 95 percent barrel fermented sur lie for eight months in Vosges and Allier barrels (20 percent new oak), and also underwent 100 percent indigenous malolactic fermentation. The lees were stirred weekly throughout the winter, adding a complex nuttiness.  Our 2004 Stuhlmuller Vineyard Chardonnay possesses a golden straw color with a signature green hue at the edge of the glass. Lovely fragrances of sweet apple, citrus blossom, nutmeg and lemon curd define this wine's exotic bouquet. On the palate, spicy pear and lemon custard dominate, followed by hints of pineapple and white flower. With ideal acidity, the finish offers a seductive slate component balanced with subtle, integrated accents from the sur lie aging. "

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DYNAMITE VINEYARDS first vintage was in  1991.  Its colorful labels, full-flavored character, approachable style and unbeatable value have been winning awards and fans.   This wine, is a new one for the portfolio--DYNAMITE VINEYARD Mendocino Chardonnay-- the most popular varietal in America.

• DYNAMITE VINYARDS 2004 Chardonnay, Mendocino $15: "Through careful vineyard selections, and blending talents, this wine has a splendid array of flavors."

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GRGICH HILLS Estate grown 2002 Merlot, Napa Valley $38 (750ml)  is on the shelves and ready for your enjoyment.  It marks the debut of "those precious words on our Merlot label, meaning that the grapes came from only our estate vineyards and we had total control over their quality from bud break through vinification all the way to the bottling line.  As such, you can rest assured this wine will be great.  It is elegant, balanced and delicious, offers rich red fruit in the mouth, cherries, plums, strawberries and currants, complemented by notes of cassis, licorice, leather and a hint of green tea.  Full and structured, yet supple and pleasantly dusty with tannins.  Now available in 375ml bottles. "

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ZD Wines were launched when two former aerospace engineers decided to produce world-class wines that similar to those of Burgundy--Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  In 1968 Norman de Leuze and Gino Zepponi pooled their resources to apply for a winery permit--the first such request in Sonoma County for 20 years.  They rented a farm building and bought grapes to make a small amount of Pinot Noir in 1969.  In 1971, they produced the first Chardonnay.   Both families spent weekends making wine.  After 10 years of producing wine as a part-time business, Norman left engineering to devote all of his time to doing what had become a full-time passion. Norman's wife, Rosa Lee, handled the sales and marketing of the wines. A six-acre parcel of land along Silverado Trail in Rutherford, Napa Valley was purchased.  Here, a new winery was built in 1979. One year later, Cabernet Sauvignon was planted on the surrounding property and a three varietal focus was taken, which returned ZD to its original plan. In 1980, ZD began producing only Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. By this time, ZD had already established a reputation for producing wines of outstanding quality, distinctive style and consistent character.

• ZD 2004 Pinot Noir, Carneros, Napa Valley $32: "This 100% Pinot Noir wine came from two vineyards in cool Carneros.  The small berries give high skin to juice ratios to produce a wine with added color and depth.  During fermentation we hand-punched the mass every six hours to get maximum extraction.  Afterwards, the wine aged in barrels for 10 months.  It is elegant with toasty, spice character, a fantastic depth of fresh cherries and ripe berries with a velvety finish."
• ZD 2004 Chardonnay, California $32: "An important component of this wine is our 2004 Carneros Estate Chardonnay--hand-harvested at night and arriving at the winery at a cool 55 degrees. This preserves flavors and enhances structure by slowing harsh components in the skins.  Grapes achieved optimum maturity and were fermented in 100% American oak barrels at 48 degrees, which lasts upwards of eight to ten weeks to give lush tropical and citrus aromas.  No malolactic ensures a perfect balance of forward fruit and crisp acidity.  Aging in barrel adds richness and complexity with sweet pineapple, vanilla, pear and lemon zest that exudes richness in  a full body."

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VERAMONTE is a winery in Chile rounded by native Chilean Agustin Huneeus.  Agustin Huneeus joined Napa Valley based Franciscan Estates in 1985 as President and CEO, bringing with him international wine experience from Chile and the United States. In 1990, after discovering promising potential vineyard property in the Casablanca Valley, Agustin Huneeus realized his dream of returning to Chile to found Veramonte.   Huneeus, along with his son Agustin F. Huneeus, President of Napa Valley based Franciscan Estates, are actively involved in running Veramonte and are committed to producing the finest quality wines. Both are also dedicated to promoting the Chilean wine industry to trade and consumers across the world.  Winemaker Rafael Tirado brings experience from the cellars of Chile, France and Spain along with degrees in agronomy and enology.  Rafael believes in taking a traditional, European approach to making wine. "My aim is to produce complex wines that balance ripe fruit with the judicious use of oak, allowing the flavors of the grape to shine through," he says. Rafael also holds great pride for his role in pioneering winemaking in the Casablanca Valley, Chile's newest wine-growing region. "This area holds the potential to produce wonderful wines that will compete with the finest in the world."

• VERAMONTE 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, Chile $9: "Aromas and flavors of fresh stone fruits, citrus, herbs, and floral accents mingle with a zesty medium body and lingering flavors."
• VERAMONTE 2003 Merlot, Casablanca Valley, Chile $9: "Aromas and flavors of cherry and berries, hints of earth, full of finesse, blackberry with flavors in balance, soft and rounded tannins with persistent finish."
• VERAMONTE 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile $9: "Aromas and flavors of blackberry and black cherry with well-integrated oak, depth of flavors of black cherry, blueberry, blackberry, elegant earthy notes, plush with soft, rich tannins, concentrated and round with long finish."
• PRIMUS 2003 Casablanca Valley, Chile $15 blends Carmenère (the lost Bordeaux grape), Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon for a combination of power and finesse.  "This is definitely a terroir wine and showcases Carmenère, imported from Bordeaux to Chile in the 1800s.  Distinct and exotic, it's made a strong comeback here for blending.  It has hints of blueberry, tobacco and vanilla, is well structured with mature fruit that has evolving complexity from seamless blending. Velvety and full bodied, smooth yet powerful tannins,  Pair with duck, beef tenderloin, wild game, bitter greens, bell peppers and olives."

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• BV COASTAL by Beaulieu Vineyards 2003 Shiraz, Central Coast $11: "Lots from several vineyards bring different characters and traits.  Aromas and flavors of cherries, black berries and dark fruits, cues of anise, cola and crushed herbs, full and round, fruit-forward tannins, full-bodied wine pairs well with many foods and cheeses, pizza, hamburgers, grilled steak and pasta dishes."
• BV COASTAL by Beaulieu Vineyards 2004 Chardonnay, Central Coast $11: "Texturally rich, nuttiness in flavors, melon, fig, green apple, nutmeg, toast and vanilla, tropical fruits,  crisp and lively acidity, enjoy with chicken and pastas."
• BV COASTAL by Beaulieu Vineyards 2003 Merlot, Central Coast $11: "Lots from several vineyards were harvested at optimal maturity.   Bright aromas and flavors of raspberry and cherry, touch of vanilla and spice, a smooth palate nicely balances red cherry acidity, tannins and subtle mocha.  Suits sipping or many full-flavored foods."

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DOMINUS owner Christian Moueix is pleased to announce the release of his 2002 DOMINUS and 2002 NAPANOOK.   "This vintage will be remembered for its complexity, depth and elegance," he says.  "The 2002 growing season was characterized by sporadic rainfall and unsettled temperatures, which naturally reduced the crop size.  A beautiful summer, without excesses, allowed the grapes to mature gently.  This is truly a vintage that is balanced, harmonious and will age gracefully in the style of other great DOMINUS vintages.  We are equally pleased with the 2002 NAPANOOK.  It is blended from vineyard blocks that are carefully selected for their lively fruit, soft tannins and early maturing characteristics.  NAPANOOK is pleasurable to drink young and pairs nicely with a variety of foods.  Both DOMINUS and NAPANOOK are made solely from grapes grown at the historic Napanook Vineyard and are estate bottled."

• NAPANOOK 2002 red wine (68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec)  Napa Valley $40: "Vermilion in color, the wine has a uniform nose of cinnamon juxtaposed with cassis and black fruit.   The wine is supple, soft and smooth, with aromatic notes of warm crème brulée.   Raspberry flavors on the mid-palate are expressions of the tender tannins that evolve toward spicy firmness of licorice on the finish."
• DOMINUS Estate 2002 red wine (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Merlot) Napa Valley $109 is the proprietary red wine produced by Christian Moueix and his team in the heart of Napa Valley.  Since 1983, their goal has been to express the unique terroir at the historic property, Napanook Vineyard.  "DOMINUS Estate the tradition of producing a wine that expresses the characteristics of the Napanook Vineyard terroir.  With small yields in 2002, fruit flavors were particularly intense. Dark red nearly purple, the nose is immediate yet subtle, complex yet refined.  It starts with aromas of leather, continues with an essence of roasted almonds and finishes with blackberry.  The wine is harmonious and balanced; tannins are integrated with flavors of caramel, cacao, cinnamon and warm chutney.  The finish is expressive, feminine, aromatic and enduring."

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SOLARIS, a wine with a little solar flair (solaris is Latin for sun), has released several red wines for your winter enjoyment.

• SOLARIS 2004 Special Release Pinot Noir, Carneros $15: "Black cherry, red berry notes, subtle toasty oak with vanilla, full-bodied with soft velvety texture, enjoy with Italian cuisine, roast duck, steak or other hearty dishes."
• SOLARIS 2002 Special Release Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $15: "Individual lots were fermented in stainless and small amount underwent malolactic to give softness and complexity to the blend.  Lovely ripe blackberry with notes of black pepper an dried herbs, oak adds delicate mocha, great with beef, lamb or wild game."
• SOLARIS 2002 Special Release Merlot, Napa Valley $15: "Red berry, cassis, herbal notes combine with pine hints and vanilla oak, medium body, soft tannins, moderate acidity, ripe cherry-mineral flavors, a balanced wine perfect for beef and rich dishes."
• SOLARIS 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $25: "Early morning harvest by hand, destemmed and crushed and fermented 14 days in stainless steel tanks, various lots were pressed and put into barrels.  100% malolactic in barrel and three rackings before blending.  A deep  rich wine with concentrated dark berry, mocha and cassis, toasty oak, well-balanced, full bodied with rich flavors and soft texture, pair with roast beef, savory cheeses and rich stews."

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KENDALL-JACKSON has held a winemaking philosophy for two decades.   Jess Jackson says, "We are relentlessly committed to producing only the finest quality wines from grapes grown in California's cool coastal vineyards.  In a previous letter I commented about our Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay changes over the years.   Ours has held its own against an oversupply of wine and a raft of aggressively priced domestic and international competitors.  I'm proud we withstood the challenges and secured a foundation that keeps us ahead of competition for years to come.  We're announcing a new direction with our Vintner's Reserve wines (please see NEWS above).  We continue our commitment to family farming and our notion that K-J is the premier 'affordable luxury wine.'  K-J Winemaker Randy Ullom gives remarks about his wines.

• KENDALL-JACKSON 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Vintner's Reserve; Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino Counties $16: "Intense black cherry, blackberry and cassis flavors are accentuated by vanilla, spice and cedar notes supported by well structured but subtle tannins with a rich, lingering finish."
• KENDALL-JACKSON 2004 Pinot Noir Vintner's Reserve; Monterey, Mendocino, Napa and Santa Barbara Counties $14: "Black cherry fruit with velvety tannins typically found in hillside grapes along the North Coast combine with flavors of raspberry and strawberry jam from Santa Barbara and Monterey.  Oak aging adds hints of vanilla, cola and a soft smoky finish."
• KENDALL-JACKSON 2004 Sauvignon Blanc Vintner's Reserve, Lake, San Luis Obispo, and Mendocino Counties $10: "Lime, melon, and Anjou pears mingle with sweet fruits like fig to create this flavorful, crisp wine.  It has kiwi hints and fig, mineral and a finish that is long and delightful."
• KENDALL-JACKSON 2004 Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve, Jackson Estates Grown, Santa Barbara, Monterey and Mendocino and other Counties $12: This wine continues to win awards.  At the 15th Annual Wine & Spirits Restaurant Pool 2004, it is # 1 Wine under $25.  It is the #1 sold by-the-glass Wine and the #1 selling Chardonnay nationwide for 15 years running.   "This high quality wine bursts with tropical fruits like mango and pineapple and delightful flavors of peach, Gala apples, lemon, lime, and pear are layered with butterscotch and subtle toasty oak.  Fat and sensual, yet dry and balanced with a long, light-creamy finish."
• KENDALL-JACKSON 2003 Syrah Vintner's Reserve, Napa, Santa Barbara, Monterey and Sonoma Counties $12: "Intense black currant and bold, jammy blackberry flavors are accentuated by big black cherry, earth, and perfume notes.  A full mouthfeel is rounded off with supple suede leather and spice for an elegant yet big, lush finish."
• KENDALL-JACKSON 2003 Zinfandel Vintner's Reserve, Mendocino, Lake, Sonoma and Santa Barbara Counties $12: "Jammy strawberry and blackberry flavors are balanced with raspberry notes and solid tannins.  Sultry cedar and spice accents linger on this captivating, long-finishing wine."

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MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyard was on my visit when I attended Crush Camp during the 2005 harvest.  Winemaker Randall Watkins pointed out that most say the bold flavors of their mountain-grown estate wines high on Mt. Veeder come from volcanic soils, the climate, steep slopes and sun exposure.  "But here at the winery we like to blame it on the moon.  We're not superstitious, but we do feel that there's something magical and mysterious about our unique estate.  Some of you will remember the devastating Sonoma brush fires of 1996. Amazingly, our beautiful turreted redwood winery was spared, but most of our estate vineyard was destroyed by the blaze.  We looked for the silver lining amid the terrible loss and in time realized the fire added carbon material and nutrients back into the rocky, volcanic soils and gave MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyard the opportunity to improve quality from the ground up.  We also took advantage of the decades of latest viticultural research to select clones and rootstock and to practice organic farming.  You'll find these advantages in our wines so please enjoy them accordingly." 

• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyard 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County $13: "Hints of kiwi, pineapple and citrus combine with a touch of vanilla together with crisp refreshing flavors in this balanced wine.  Enjoy with a wide range of spicy dishes, I especially like pan-seared scallops in a dill cream sauce."
• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyard 2004 Chardonnay, Sonoma County $13: "Aromas and flavors of apple and spice with delicate nuances of vanilla for oak adding complexity and richness.  Mouthfilling flavors of pear and citrus with refreshing acidity.   Beautifully balanced, pair with grilled fish, roasted fowl or wonderful Brie, Gouda and Gruyere."
• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyard 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $16: "Concentrated, lush flavors with notes of blackberry and cassis, vanilla and chocolate and sage.  Long and complex and elegant, enjoy with rack of lamb and other roasted red meats."
• MOON MOUNTAIN Vineyard 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley $35: "Fermentations were in open-topped tanks and punched down three times daily with additional maceration for two to seven days.  This wine 100% free-run juice(that which flows freely without pressing) and barrel aged.  It has a concentration of lush fruit, ripe mountain blackberry, forest floor and mocha, rich and supple tannins and delicious with filet mignon, grilled flank steak and mushrooms."

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QUIXOTE Winery is the new property of my friend Carl Doumani, previously owner of Stags' Leap Winery.  He tells me about his new property.  "We've released both our 2001 QUIXOTE Cabernet Sauvignon and 2001 Panza Cabernet Sauvignon in stylish twist-off caps," he says.  "Now, I don't really expect you to be looking to me as the arbiter of taste,  But, I'm a lucky guy, and there's a sense of humor and play and unconventional presentation about these wines that's attractive to wine lovers.  And just wait until they twist off the cap!  These are Wow wines!"

• QUIXOTE 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags' Leap Ranch, Napa Valley $60 (480 cases): "This full bodied wine has aromas and flavors of black berry, ripe plum and bittersweet chocolate.  Its smooth texture and balanced palate offers a wide range of complex flavors of vanilla, black fruits, anise and black pepper.  Finishes with firm tannins and a lingering mocha sweetness.  This wine will drink well for ten years."
• PANZA 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags' Leap Ranch, Napa Valley $40 (1400 cases): "A very elegant wine filled with aromatics of red fruit, cherry and strawberry, leather and tobacco.   Flavors of pluot, smoky and toast notes, pomegranate, soft and elegant tannins and a supple finish."  in@quixotewinery.com

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The word echelon means "a series of levels or grades," and in the case of the eponymous wine it describes the specific barrel lots stacked and organized in the cellar, a series of vine rows aligned in the vineyard and unified by rootstock, microclimate or soil content.  "Our definition of ECHELON is not to give a vocabulary lesson, but rather to explain our winery's level of commitment and dedication to getting the best our of its fruit--to take each wine to the highest echelon or level possible," explains Winemaker Tom Westberg.

• ECHELON Vineyards 2004 Pinot Noir, Central Coast $13: "Intense ruby with good depth, aromas and flavors of cherries, cloves and roses, sweet oak, richly layered ripe, dark cherries, medium tannins and oak finish, a balanced wine that pairs well with roast chicken and meaty stews."
• ECHELON Vineyards 2003 Shiraz, Central Coast $12: "Aromas and flavors of dark cherry, blueberry, jam and oak, medium-to-full body with big, soft tannins, a ripe, deep wine, mouthfilling with a long finish, pair with pizza, pasta and red meats."
• ECHELON Vineyards 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Hames Valley $13: "Malolactic softened the wine by reducing acid while adding complexity.  Aromas and flavors of bright cherry fruit, soft tannins, good varietal character and balance, pair with red meats."

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MICHELE CHIARLO: The wine firm was founded in 1956 by the sole and present owners, Michele and Giuseppina Chiarlo.  Son of over seven generations of wine growers, Mr. Chiarlo inherited his father's business and is a respected producer of fine Piedmont wines.   Michele Chiarlo makes rigorous selections among the best grapes from the most reputable growers in the most favored vineyard areas.  Michele Chiarlo is among those who first used malolactic fermentation to Italy, to give wines greater stability, lower acidity and easier accessibility in their youth.  Success has led to expansion of markets, an increased portfolio, and the construction of a more wineries--one most recently built in 1985 to accommodate wines from Barola. In 1995, Michele Chiarlo acquired the estate of Azienda Agricola Aluffi in Castelnuovo Calcea, considered to the most beautiful and prestigious property in the heart of the classic Barbera d'Asti zone.  The estate is comprised of two separate vineyard holdings, La Court and Il Castello, with a total area of 62 acres--50 planted to barbera vines, extensive for this area. Michele Chiarlo oversees every aspect in the production of his wines. His expertise was acquired in the company under his father, he his degree from the School of Enology at Alba. His ceaseless innovation in production and marketing has gained him the respect of his industry. In the early 1990s, Michele Chiarlo's sons, Alberto and Stefano, entered the firm and will eventually assume responsibility for the company.  Alberto, the elder, directs marketing and sales; Stefano, an enologist by profession, manages vineyard operations and collaborates in production in the cellars.

• MICHELE CHIARLO presents GAVI, its white wine of the Cortese vine and one as old as the town of Gavi where it was first produced over one thousand years ago.   MICHELE CHIARLO Gavi ($17) "is an extremely elegant wine, pale gold with hints of green and delicately scented in bouquet.  Dry but not astringent, lean yet with a slightly flinty complexity and subtle body, it is a wine to be consumed while fresh and youthful."
• MICHELE CHIARLO  "Le Orme" Barbera D'Asti, D.O.C. ($13) is 100% barbera, "Intense yet airy, vinous bouquet and a medium-bodied, bond-dry robustness that is exceptionally pleasant on the palate, velvety and harmonious."
• MICHELE CHIARLO "La Court" Barbera D'Asti, D.O.C. ($40) is 100% barbera, "In 1995, Michele Chiarlo acquired the historic Tenuta Aluffi, in the very heart of the Nizza zone for the most perfect expression of the barbera vine. An extensive estate by the region's standards, its 55 acres are on two hillsides roughly 800 feet above sea level and divided into the two farms of "La Court" and "Il Castello." The soils rich in magnesium and significant calcium, manganese and iron lend finesse.   The vines average 22 to 25 years and yield small quantities of fruit, harvested late to achieve optimum ripeness.  Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at 30º C enhances extract; the temperature is then lowered to 22º C, and the wine is later transferred to new oak barriques to complete the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations.  Oak contact lasts thereafter for a minimum of twelve months.   The result is a wine of superb structure and density, with a rich, silky elegance, intense varietal character and a lengthy finish. "
• MICHELE CHIARLO Nivole Moscatao d'Asti, D.O.C.G. ($12, 375ml): "Moscato d'Asti is one of the most delicate of dessert wines.  It should be consumed at its freshest and most youthful. Its low alcohol makes it particularly light and soft on the palate. Nivole means clouds in Piedmontese dialect, and appropriately suggests the wine's airy, elegant quality   The fragrant, intensely fruity bouquet, offset by musky notes, leads to a refined sweetness supported by an excellent acid balance on the palate, with a suggestion of effervescence in the texture." 

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• McWILLIAM'S Hanwood Estate 2004 Shiraz, Australia $11: "Intense spicy black cherry and plum, vanilla, cinnamon and oak aromas and flavors; rich and balanced with blackberry, white pepper, sweet nutmeg and mocha; lively and fruit driven with supple tannins; enjoy with barbecued beef and herb crusted lamb chops."
• McWILLIAM'S Hanwood Estate 2004 Chardonnay, Australia $11: "Aromas and flavors of peaches, clove, cashew nut, oak, tropical fruits, classic complexity, enjoy with salmon and other rich fish grilled."
• McWILLIAM'S Hanwood Estate 2004 Merlot, Australia $11: "Ripe blackberry, plum, cinnamon, vanilla oak character, forest berries and brown spices, enjoy with chicken and other fowl dishes."
• McWILLIAM'S Hanwood Estate 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia $11: "Aromas and flavors of blackcurrant and eucalyptus leaves, vanilla bean, nutmeg, oak characters, cassis, cinnamon, excellent tannin structure and generous length, enjoy with roasted duck."
• McWILLIAM'S of Coonawarra 2001 Shiraz, South Australia $25 (500 12-packs): "Aromas and flavors of ripe plums, strawberry clover, coconut and vanilla, rich and rounded with up-front dark chocolate and vanilla, rounded structure, ripe and rich."
• McWILLIAM'S of Coonawarra 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia $25 (1000 12-packs): "Aromas and flavors of powerful and complex primary fruits--black currant, mulberry, plums and some mint, dark chocolate and spicy character, full-bodied with a long, velvety, fine-grained tannin finish, complex and fruit-driver."

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BENNETT LANE WINERY has released the 2003 MAXIMUS ($28), its signature red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (63%), Merlot 24%), Syrah (11%) and Petit Verdot (2%).  The unconventional blend is a complex yet approachable wine that owner Randy Lynch calls the best of both worlds.  "You can drink the wine today or put it away because it is structured enough to cellar for several years.  We call it our BENNETT LANE red feasting wine.  It demonstrates our commitment to making wine an integral part of entertaining and meals with family and friends."  Winemaker Rob Hunter says, " The 2003 MAXIMUS has concentrated aromas of ripe black raspberry and strawberry jam with a background of anise, oak and cedar, flavors of dark cherry, mocha and toffee with soft velvety tannins and a lingering finish.  http://www.bennettlane.com/                 __________________________________________________________________________

KORBEL Brut Rosé is a fine choice for Valentine's Day celebrations. The delicate pink and lively bubbles promise delicious, sparkling drinking.  The refreshing wine has aromas and flavors of strawberry, black cherry and green apple and a subtle sweetness highlights the fruit while a touch of balancing acidity   contributes a light, vibrant finish. KORBEL Brut Rosé is enjoyable as an aperitif and  the d accompanies almost any bill of fare.  Don't for get the chocolates--prefect with this wine.    KORBEL Brut Rosé received the Sparkling Sweepstakes Award at the 2005 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Gold and Best of Class at the 2005 Los Angeles County Fair, and a Double Gold at the 2005 California State Fair.    Available nationally, 22,000 cases were produced with a suggested retail price of $10.99.  At that price, you'll want a case. 

Sarah Jane Travels Portugal and visits RAMOS-PINTO Port House:  Ah, Port, the elixir that launched a thousand rabelos. These colorful wooden boats traveled the Douro River for centuries bringing wine to Porto’s sister city Vila Nova de Gaia. Here, famous Port lodges (wine-storage warehouses) like Ramos Pinto cellar the wine until it matures and is bottled. My friend Jorge Ramos explained some family history as we toured the property. His ancestor, Adriano Ramos Pinto, founded the company in 1880.

Adrianno brought his brother into the business in 1896 and in 1918 Ramos Pinto became a Limited Company. In 1938, Jose Ramos Pinto Rosas took over direction of the company. He was respected for instigating viticultural practices and mechanized farming that brought solutions to the difficult land.

The tremendously steep vineyards along the Douro River must be experienced to fully understand how difficult it is to farm this land. Over the centuries, a system of terraces has been built  in a pyramid style. They are held in place by rock walls that support the land. Initially men created the soils. They broke off pieces of the schist (slate) from the hillsides and hammered and banged the material to pulverize it into soil. This soil became the garden of the vines. Douro vineyards incline between 30 to 70 degrees. Often you reach out to hold the terraced step above you to pull yourself up to it.

Port Wine: Notes on History, Production & Techniques, reports “Trenching is carried out to a depth of from 1,10 to 1,30 m, the top-soil and the lower layers being inverted. This work used to be done with iron handspikes and shovels and gunpowder was not infrequently used to break up the more unyielding lumps of schist. The bigger stones were set aside to build the supporting walls and narrow terraces.”

The vineyards truly are the most inhospitable vineyards worldwide. During harvest along these impossibly steep slopes, temperatures often rise above 100 degrees Fahrenheit for days. Grape gatherers begin early in the morning hours and pick grapes all day long. At the conclusion of the day’s work, many follow the grapes to the lagars, introduced by the Romans.

Portugal has produced still wine since the Roman times. Indeed, these intrepid peripatetic soldiers built the granite troughs used to turn grapes into wine. Like rabelos, lagars are vivid reminders of a demanding industry when workers crushed the grapes with their feet. About one percent of the producers still use them today for tromping the grapes into wine. I watched the process, mostly in amazement that the men would have any energy left after a day of picking and hauling grapes up steep slopes in 100-degree heat.

The lagars (18 x 18 x 3 feet high) are constructed of granite—igneous rock approaching the hardness of diamonds and not easily malleable. Nothing, it seems, about the production of Port was even slightly easy. I was lulled along the road to the lagar building by singing—seemingly much like the Sirens lured Odysseus. Music filled the large room, which contained about eight lagars, and several musicians were playing guitars, tambourines, flutes and an accordion. They stood beside the grape-filled trough to sing the lively songs that appeared to encourage creative crushing. The grape-gatherers-turned-lagar-stompers had jumped into the granite containers (after a shower and change of clothes) to stomp the grapes barefoot. They linked their arms and stepped in unison, inspired by the musicians’ syncopation. Nearby a wine bearer held a jug of wine ever ready to fill and refill their cups repeatedly. One especially enthusiastic, portly imbiber had a flair for expressive dancing. He would shuffle his solo steps, snapping his fingers, waving his arms, and accentuating his hips while he bellowed the lyrics at full voice. In turn, others offered their interpretive dances. Then they would have a cup of wine, line up to link arms again and stomp in unison. Their good spirits never waned and it was very infectious.

Like all Port, Ramos Pinto wines are of two kinds, wood aged and bottle aged, and they are made in several styles:  Vintage Character, Late Bottled Vintage, Vintage, Tawny, Single Quinta (estate), and Ruby.

"Ruby Port is a young blend, full of color and aged for only three years in big wooden balseiros (vats),” Ramos says. “Its primary aromas and flavors give it freshness that makes it a pleasure to drink at any time of the day. This young wine is ready to drink. No aging or decanting is necessary for our Porto Ruby.”

Another Ramos Pinto Port is “Collector.” Unfiltered, it is a style called vintage character port.

"Vintage Character Port has been on the market for about 80 years, Ramos says. “Perhaps the term premium-ruby would better characterize the wine. It is blended with an emphasis on richness and fruit rather than lightness and delicacy. A superior, non-vintage port, it is richer than our basic Ruby due to the addition of some vintage-caliber wine to the blend. We named ours ‘Collector’ for our artistic ancestor and the art in winemaking. The grapes for it come from the best properties in the Douro.”

The Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port is a name given to a type of vintage Port that is less costly and ready to drink at an earlier age.

“Our Ramos Pinto LBV Port is a single-vintage blend,” Ramos says. “It comes from a single, good-quality vintage (like Vintage Port) but unlike Vintage Port, which ages only two years in wood before being bottled for further aging, LBV is aged solely in cask for four to six years and then bottled. As a result of this extended wood contact, LBV has a mature, fruity flavor at a younger age, offering much of the character of a Vintage Port without the wait or price. It is ready to drink without decanting.”

Tawny Port, first produced in the late 1800s, has several categories. Young Tawnies age in cask about three years and have no age indicated on the label. They are known for vigor and freshness. Ramos Pinto Fine Tawny is representative of this style. Tawnies labeled with an average age of 10, 20, 30, or 40 years are blends of several years. For example, a young four-year-old wine will be added for freshness while a 12-year-old wine will be added to the blend for complexity. These stellar creations are a resplendent topaz color and have great texture and taste. With Tawnies, blending creates a wine that features refinement, strength, freshness and maturity.

Ramos Pinto Tawny Ports include variously aged Tawnies and a reserve. There are prestigious Tawnies that indicate an average age of 10, 20 or 30 years and there is single Quinta Tawny.

“Ramos Pinto Quinta da Ervamoira 10 Year Tawny comes from a single property that captures the special features of the vineyard,” Ramos says. “Quinta da Ervamoira is located on the Doura Superior, a piece of land situated on the left bank of the Douro where it meets the Côa River. It is the winery’s experimental vineyard. Here, we have planted 240 acres vertically, a departure from the traditional terraced rows stepping horizontally up the steep slopes rising from the river,” he explains. “Vertical planting allows closer spacing of vines, which result in less fruit per plant but more concentrated fruit flavors. This wine is a rich tawny color with a generous nose of orange, apricot, and plum aromas. It finishes with vanilla scents imparted by the old Port casks. The blend is made up of numerous lots of varying age. There is younger wine for vigor and freshness. Older wine adds complexity. There is a saying that declares, ‘A great Vintage is in the hands of God, but a great Tawny is created by a master blended.”

Vintage Port is the most prized of Ports. While vintages actually occur every year, a declared vintage is reserved for anointing the highest of quality Vintage Ports, which happens perhaps three times a decade. Each Port company decides whether to declare a vintage or not. In recent decades, more companies have declared Vintage Ports.

“Eighteen months after the harvest, the best casks of wine from the best quintas in the Douro are blended,” Ramos explains. “The young wine spends two years in cask and then is bottled and left to slowly mature. It changes over the years—from a fruity, luscious purple through mellowing years with myriad intricacies to its final maturity. Vintage Port throws a substantial crust (sediment) in the bottle and, consequently, requires decanting before being served. These wines age for up to 50 years or longer. Recent declared vintages include 1977, 1980, 1983, 1985, 1991, 1994, 1997, 2000 and 2003. None of these wines is ready to drink. We are just now drinking the 1970 and 1975s.”

Port comes from the demarcated Douro River Valley, which is the oldest delimited wine growing region and it was established in 1761. All Port is fortified wine. Its advent was in the 1600s when British merchants living near Porto (Oporto to the British) created a circular trade. They imported textiles and exported a light, still, red, coastal Vinho Verde wine. The British, however--especially the well-bred Englishmen, were partial to Bordeaux and did not care for the light coastal wines of Portugal. In the 17^th-century political problems between France and England made the coveted French wine almost impossible to obtain. At that time the British merchants began shipping the richer red wines grown along the Douro hillsides. For the trip down the river, they added some brandy to stabilize the wines. This bit of legerdemain created Port. The sweet, aromatic wine met with great success in Britain and the shippers moved their operations to Porto. Warre, established in 1670, was the first English Porto firm. Croft, Delaforce, Dow, Fonseca, Taylor, Cockburn, Graham, Sandeman and others followed. Marriages, consolidations and acquisitions have incorporated these historic companies and because of this heritage they are still called shippers today. Champagne Louis Roederer is the majority shareholder of Ramos Pinto whose descendants still manage the property.

For all Port, young or old, enjoy an array of toasted nuts—especially walnuts—dried fruits, Cheddar and blue cheeses. It will be a very special evening.

© 2006 Sarah Jane English

Sarah Jane: mailto:sarajane@ONR.com

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