The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 73rd Edition
September 16, 2005
TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $Best Buy
COLUMBIA WINERY 2003 Gewurztraminer, Washington $9
COASTAL RIDGE 2004 Johannisberg Riesling, California $7
HANDLEY CELLARS 2004 Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley $16
ST. SUPERY 2001 White Meritage, Napa Valley $20
PROVENANCE 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley $35
CANYON ROAD 2004 Sauvignon Blanc $10
ANDRETTI Selections 2004 Chardonnay, Central Coast $11
ANDRETTI Selections 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast $13
ANDRETTI Winery 2001 Merlot, Napa Valley $22
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Dutton Ranch $38
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Saralee's Vineyard $38
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Pinot Noir, Los Carneros, Las Brisas $38
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Syrah, Russian River Valley, Alegria Vineyard $33
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Syrah, Russian River Valley, Trenton Station Vineyard $35
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Syrah, Sonoma coast, Stage Gulch Vineyard, $33
ROSENBLUM 2003 Roussanne, Fess Parker Vineyard, Santa Barbara $19
ZACA MESA 2003 Roussanne, Santa Inez $25
TRUCHARD 2002 Roussanne, Carneros, Napa Valley $25
ST. SUPERY 2004 Moscato, $18
ELYSE 2004 Rosé, Red Table Wine, California $15
WINERY OF THE MONTH: Gloria Ferrer. GLORIA FERRER has been a unique experience for me over the years. I attended the ground breaking for the property. Then I was there while the building was under construction. And, I returned for the opening of the winery. And when My book TOP CHEFS IN TEXAS was published, co-owner, family-members Begonia and Pedro Ferrer invited me and four of the chefs in my cookbook to be their guests for a dinner held at the winery and hosted by David Narsi. Owned by the Ferrer Family from Barcelona, Spain, Gloria Ferrer is located at the gateway to the Sonoma wine country on the pastoral Carneros Highway (23555 Hwy 121). Only 50 minutes from San Francisco, the winery should be on wine lovers’ first or last stop to a day in wine country. Six sparkling wines and seven still wines are produced there, most of which are available nation-wide. Some of the limited production sparkling and still wines are reserved exclusively for sale at the winery, including the Brut Rosé and the single vineyard Gravel Knob and Rust Rock Pinot Noirs. The winery has been awarded more than 100 gold medals in the last five years for both its sparkling and still wines. In 2004, Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut was the only California sparkling wine on the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list. With two days of excellent wine, Spanish food and lively music, Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves celebrated its Spanish and Catalán heritage at the winery’s 13th annual Catalán Festival of Food, Wine and Music held at the winery in July. To commemorate the winery’s opening in July 1986, and as a homage to Barcelona, Catalonia’s enchanted city, Gloria Ferrer was transformed into a Mediterranean mecca for the senses. The Festival brought together the award-winning sparkling and still wines of Gloria Ferrer, Spanish tastes from renowned restaurants and cooking demonstrations from the Bay Area’s top toques. Music from Spanish guitars and invigorating Flamenco dancing and Sardana (traditional Catalan dance) accompanied the gustatory festivities, and the festival also featured the dance of the “Gegants” (traditional 15-foot-tal l, papier-maché, puppet-like figures), a must-see for children and adults alike. (for detailed schedule of events at www.gloriaferrer.com)
SPLURGE WINE OF THE MONTH: Jarvis 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $75--well worth the splurge!
NEWS
COURTS in New York, Connecticut and Ohio have declared the states' discriminatory shipping laws to be unconstitutional. As a result of the court order, wineries may now legally ship wine to consumers in in these states.
CHALK HILL WINERY SOMMELIER GUIDE to RESTAURANTS in AMERICA featuring 2100 of the country's best restaurants and ultimate food and wine pairings, has released its fourth edition. Supported by several wineries--Jordan, Hanzell, Silver Oak, Chateau Montelena, Ferrari-Carano, Kendall-Jackson--the book praises American sommeliers with the wineries' spokespersons acknowledging that the often unsung position of sommelier is truly a linchpin connection. For information: kdilley@chalkhill.com
BONNY DOON Owner Randall Graham has written a clever and masterful variation--an individualized vinous interpretation, of Dante's Divine Comedy titled "Da Vino Commedia." Thanks, also, to Graham's talented associate, public relation director John Locke, for his tasting notes. This singular tome of wit is not for a cursory glance, but rather, a dedicated peruse. One can only wonder how the brightly excited synapses click in Graham's nimble mind.
FRANCISCAN ESTATES, a fine wine company based in Napa Valley, has announced a new company name, ICON ESTATES, to better reflect its growing portfolio. "ICON is a portfolio of wineries, vineyards and estates that represents icons of the fine wines world," said Jon Moramarco, Icon president and CEO. "From To Kalon in Oakville to Simi's 100-year-old stone cellars and Ravenswood's 'no wimpy wines,' each property has its own reason for being relevant, historic and vibrant in today's wine business. Founded in 1972 as Franciscan Vineyards, the Icon Estates portfolio was developed over 20 years with a vision and commitment to producing wines that represent great vineyards and appellations and relevant categories. Our commitment to producing wines with a reason for being of the highest quality remains our cornerstone." The portfolio includes: Franciscan, Mount Veeder, Robert Mondavi, Simi, Estancia, Ravenswood in California and in other regions; Columbia Winery in Washington; and others around the world. Icon is the fine wine division of Constellation Brands.
FANTESCA Estate & Winery, a new 1000-case Spring Mountain winery, announces its first "Hands-on Harvest" program on Friday, October 7, 2005. The Crush Crew, wine aficionados and budding vintners, can experience Fantesca's harvest for a day—without having to quit their day jobs! Begin with 8:30 a.m. coffee, fresh fruit and baked goods—ample morning fuel to help tackle harvest. Work alongside Proprietors Susan and Duane Hoff, Associate Winemaker Jon Leahy and the Fantesca harvest crew, who will demonstrate a day in the life of harvest. Duane Hoff will teach the crew about the Spring Mountain District and Fantesca’s 9-acre vineyard, while Jon Leahy will demonstrate when grapes have reached optimal ripeness and appropriate Brix levels. The Crush Crew will have careful tutoring on how to pick and meticulously sort the grapes (using Fantesca’s Le Trieur triple-sorting system), as well as the "how and why" of tank punch downs. Aspiring winemakers are encouraged to be as hands-on as they wish and should wear comfortable clothes and shoes. Lunch follows at the Hoff's home. The cost is $650 per person at Fantesca’s winery at 2920 Spring Mountain Road, five minutes from St. Helena. Please note that the winery is not normally open to the public. "Hands-on Harvest" is limited to 16 people, enabling the Crush Crew the opportunity to learn, pick, sort and taste to their hearts’ content. As space is extremely limited, Fantesca suggests reserving as soon as possible by calling the winery at 952.324.8988 or via email at info@fantesca.com. FANTESCA ESTATE & WINERY does not have a tasting room. Shop online at www.fantesca.com or call the winery 952.324.8988 to purchase or join the mailing list.
CHEF THOMAS KELLER AND PENFOLDS’ PETER GAGO PAIR WINE DINNERS: The French Laundry in Yountville and Per Se in New York City. Penfolds, "Australia’s Most Famous Wine," announces Penfolds’ Icon Dinners September, 2005. Together, Chef Thomas Keller and Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago will offer two evenings of world-class cuisine and specially selected Penfolds wines in California and New York. Dinner at Yountville's The French Laundry on September 20th, at NY City's Per Se in New York, City on September 28th. Thomas Keller is internationally renowned for his culinary pursuits. Both his widely acclaimed restaurants reflect Chef Keller’s intense attention to detail that extends to cuisine, presentation, mood and surroundings. “Keller is a visionary and an icon in the culinary world,” enthuses Peter Gago, Penfolds Chief Winemaker. “It is a great honor to work with him to pair our award-winning wines with his creative, internationally renowned cuisine.” As one of the world’s most influential winemakers, Peter Gago is recognized for his talent, vision, and passion. His direction makes Penfolds a cornerstone of Australian wine innovation and experimentation, while highlighting the very best of Australian viticultural and regional history. The Penfolds wines featured at the Icon Dinners will include Penfolds Grange as well limited-production Penfolds wines selected personally by Peter Gago from the Penfolds cellars. “I carefully chose a selection of our wines, from both cellar and barrel that stood out for their structure, complexity, and length to best highlight the brilliant flavours and textures of Chef Keller’s cuisine. These dinners will be very special indeed.” Both of the Penfolds Icon Dinners are currently sold out to the general public. Photographic images will be available shortly after each event, upon request.
WOMEN SPUR NEW TREND IN WINE MARKETING: The WINE INSTITUTE reports that “Men prefer beer; women prefer wine,” according to a 2005 Gallup Poll. That has been the trend for more than a decade and likely beyond although wine continues to gain in popularity among both sexes and for the first time has edged out beer as Americans’ preferred drink. Women make up 52 percent of the adult population and purchase 55 percent of the wine consumed in the United States. They represent a huge market with great purchasing power that until recently has been overlooked. According to experts, women are less influenced by wine ratings, as they tend to judge the entire product. Although the wine quality is important to women, so are the label design, the bottle shape and the philosophy of the winery. In response to this growing awareness of women’s influence, a new wine magazine was recently launched specifically targeted to this economically significant segment of the market. The publication highlights recommendations from experts and focuses on lifestyle topics relating to food and wine. There are also several books currently on the market that are written by women for the feminine wine lover. A greater marketing awareness toward women consumers is emerging as a trend in the 21st century. This has been brought about partly by women themselves gaining stature in the industry. They inherently recognize that women comprise a major market, representing more than 50 percent of all wine purchasing decisions. It makes good business sense to make sure that communication messages have appeal to women.
AGREEMENT EXPANDS CALIFORNIA WINEMAKERS' OPPORTUNITIES FOR U.S. PRODUCERS IN EUROPE: The Wine Institute reports that a historic agreement caps more than 20 years of wine trade talks. California winemakers cheered the announcement by U.S. Trade Representative Rob Portman that an agreement has been reached with European Community (EC) negotiators on key provisions of wine trade talks that began in 1983. The Wine Institute, whose members export 95 percent of U.S. wine, issued a letter to James Murphy, Assistant U.S. Trade Representative who led the negotiations on behalf of the U.S. government, acknowledging “outstanding progress on wine trade issues of critical importance to the growth of our industry.” The agreement addresses key wine trade issues including recognition of winemaking practices, recognition of U.S. place names in Europe and the use of semi-generic names. It is the first phase of a broader agreement intended to promote trade between the United States and the European Community which are major growth markets for one another’s exports. “The United States has the most open wine market in the world,” said Robert P. ‘Bobby’ Koch, President and CEO of the Wine Institute, “and European winemakers have long enjoyed unfettered access to U.S. consumers. This agreement promises U.S. wineries a level of certainty that our wines will have long-term access to European markets such as the United Kingdom where consumers have embraced wines from California and other states.” Total U.S. wine exports reached a record $736 million in revenues in 2004. Sixty-six percent of U.S. wine exports ($487 million) were shipped to countries in the European Community, the largest market for American wines.
FALL FESTIVITIES at FALL CREEK VINEYARDS: Fall Creek Vineyards invites visitors to enjoy relaxing time at the vineyard with live music by guitarist Gerardo Ramirez to complement wine and food from the gourmet food section in celebration of October as Texas Wine Month, Saturday, October 1st, 11:00am – 5:00pm. Winery Chef Elisabeth Miller will offer appetizers to complement FALL CREEK wine and music on the vineyard patio. Call the winery for reservations for special events or your own private event: 325/379-5361 or see our web-site for special offerings: www.fcv.com Check all Texas wineries for celebrations during TEXAS WINE MONTH in OCTOBER.
SARAH JANE joined ten other writers to attend Diageo's Crush Camp program in Napa Valley. "Harvest is underway and the grapes look great! We measured Brix and picked grapes in Sterling's Three Palm vineyard. We had seminars and worked various activities at Provenance, Acacia, Beaulieu and Moon Mountain. More later.
2002 INSIGNIA RELEASE: Joseph Phelps Vineyards announced the release of the 2002 Insignia. If you ordered futures, or are a Flagship Club or Collectors' Club member, the wine will ship at the end of October. If you did not, orders will be taken immediately although shipment will depend on weather conditions being cool enough to safely transport the wine.
MESSINA HOF wins International Honors: Messina Hof awarded six medals by Indy International Wine Competition, Indianapolis. Messina Hof’s gold and bronze winnings make it Texas’ most awarded winery of the competition, which is hosted by the Indiana State Fair. “We're honored to be recognized among so many top national and global wines,” said Paul Bonarrigo, owner/winemaker. “To know that world experts find our wines worthy of medals rewards the work that goes into each bottle.” Two gold medals went to Messina Hof Private Reserve Shiraz 2004 and Paulo Merlot 2002, and four bronzes went to Barrel Reserve Cabernet Franc 2004, Paulo Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Paulo Special Edition Blend 2002 and the Paulo Port 2002. Among the 3,700 wines entered, 391 were awarded medals.
NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)
MATUA VALLEY 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $12: Winemaker Joanne Gear says, "This wine has distinctive and vibrant aromas of gooseberry, passion fruit and floral citrus. It is well-proportioned and concentrated ripe tropical aromas and flavors that flow into the palate and linger on the refreshing and lively finish. Pair with oysters, vegetable soups and light seafood."
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DOMECQ was originally founded to produce a full line of ultra premium sherries. It succeeded so well, it has traditionally provided the Spanish and English Royal Families with their private Sherry reserve. ALLIED DOMECQ owns WILLIAM HILL WINERY and imports COCKBURN'S PORTO and markets and distributes many other properties in its portfolio.
ALLIED DOMECQ Wines USA (ADW) is the American fine wine division of Allied Domecq PLC. Since the creation of a global wine division in 2001, ADM has grown to become one of the most diverse wine companies in the world. The California portfolio consists of super-premium wines such as Atlas Peak®, Buena Vista® Winery, Callaway Coastal®, Clos du Bois®, Gary Farrell®, Haywood Estate®, J. Garcia®, Jake's Fault®, Mumm Napa®, Wattle Creek® and William Hill Winery®. The company also owns and manages the US marketing, sales and distribution for Allied Domecq’s global wine brands, including Azure Bay®, Champagne Perrier Jouët® and Champagne Mumm® of France, Cockburn’s Port® from Portugal, Graffigna® from Argentina, Brancott® Vineyards, Stoneleigh® and Lindauer® from New Zealand, as well as Harveys Bristol Cream®, Domecq® sherries, Marques de Arienzo®, Campo Viejo®, Ysios®, Tarsus®, Aura® and Villarei® wines from Spain. For further information on Allied Domecq Wines USA please visit www.allieddomecqwines.com
DOMECQ Bone-dry Fino LA INA Sherry, Spain $14: "This popular premium sherry has fresh apple, almond and yeast flavors and is ideal with olives, nuts cheese, shrimp and grilled sausages."
DOMECQ Medium Dry Amontillado, Spain $14: "This pungent yet delicate wine should be served chilled with olives, almonds or grilled shrimp."
DOMECQ Delicate Fino Manzanilla, Spain $14: "This sherry displays classic nuttiness and is matured to its dry state, pair with chowders and bisques, nuts and mild cheeses."
Harveys Bristol Cream $17 is a dessert-style wine with a creamy texture and raisiny richness."
COCKBURN'S, founded in 1815 and based in the Douro Region of Portugal, Cockburn’s (Coh-burns) has grown to become one of the world’s great port houses. Makers of a complete line of fine ports, including Cockburn’s Special Reserve — the world’s most popular premium branded port — Cockburn’s is known worldwide for its mature, slightly drier wine style. What sets Cockburn’s apart from all other port houses is a rigorous quality control standard exercised on all aspects of production. Being the largest vineyard owner in the Port district also gives Cockburn’s huge stocks of aged wines for its many fine blends. For further information on Cockburn’s please visit: www.cockburns-usa.com
COCKBURN'S Special Reserve Porto $16 is a "vintage character" Port, so-called because its flavor is intended to remind one of the rare and expensive Vintage Ports; however, different in that it is matured and ready to drink without decanting. These Ports are the standard bearers of the "house-style" of the producer. It has aromas and flavors of ripe fruit and spice, off dry to medium sweet with rich, mellow texture.
COCKBURN'S 1998 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) $20 is a style of Port made entirely of wines harvested from multiple vineyards in a single year. While true vintage Ports are aged in cask for two years, LBVs are aged four to six years in cask before bottling. They are more mature and fully developed when bottled with well-rounded flavors and a smooth. No further aging is required.
COCKBURN'S 10 Years Old Tawny Port $30 is one of a kind of older tawny ports known as "indicated age." These wines can carry an indication of the age of of the blend o the label, given in multiples of 10 years. Portuguese lay allows for the age to be approximate. COCKBURN'S 10 Years Old Tawny is blended from older, mature wines aged in cask and then refreshed by the addition of younger wines. The "indicated age" is the average age of the wines in the blend. These wines exhibit a silky smoothness from the cask aging and are ready to enjoy upon release.
COCKBURN'S 20 Years Old Tawny Port $50 is a golden-colored tawny, denoting a wine of considerable age. With nutty aromatics, it is smooth from years in wood. While mellow and concentrated on the palate, it shows plenty of fruit with a long, rich finish. This wine is notably sweeter than the 10-year-old Tawny, and much more concentrated, yet displays the characteristic Cockburn's style of freshness and grip. Pair it with rich cream-based desserts, creme brulee, cheesecake or flan. It also makes a special treat when served alone, slightly chilled, perhaps with almonds or pecans. This wine is blended from older, mature wines aged in cask and then refreshed by the addition of younger wines. The "indicated age" is the average age of the wines in the blend.
COCKBURN'S Quinta dos Canais, Single Quinta Vintage 2001 $56. These ports are relative newcomers to the world of port, dating back to the early
1980s. Created from a single vineyard property (or quinta), they are usually produced during undeclared years. The port house may deem that wine from a particular estate is of exceptional depth and character, due to site, micro-climate, etc., then a single quinta wine bearing a vintage date may be released. A single quinta wine provides consumers a vintage-style wine derived from a good but undeclared year. Cockburn's Quinta dos Canais is a traditional, terraced Upper Douro river quinta that has been producing superior wines for many years. The property, a "jewel in the crown," has consistently provided the grapes that are the backbone of Cockburn's declared vintages. Under the regional classification system, the vineyard has been awarded the highest possible rating. Originally five separate quintas, Canais was combined into a single large property around the turn of the century. Its abundant water supply, conserved from run off and channeled around the upper elevations, gave the property its name; canais is the Portuguese word for canals. The vineyard is currently undergoing further development. Varietal blocks are being planted, a practice pioneered by Cockburnâs in the region.
WINEMAKER COMMENTS: Aromas of raisins, prunes and black licorice lead this medium sweet, full-bodied wine. Big tannins and a solid and elegant structure will enable this vintage to improve for the next 20 years.
William Hill Estate has produced rich, intense Napa Valley wines with a distinctive elegance since 1978, steadily building a reputation for top-notch Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. Now guided by winemaker Richard Sowalsky and noted viticulturist Tony Fernandez, the winery is taking this tradition a step further emphasizes smart, sustainable viticulture and meticulous modern winemaking techniques. William Hill Estate works primarily with fruit from its 142-acres of estate vineyards adjacent to the winery on the Silverado Bench in the southeast corner of the Napa Valley. The winery also maintains an 80-acre vineyard dedicated to Chardonnay in Carneros, which is known for producing crisp, varietal expressions of the grape. Learn more about William Hill Estate at: www.williamhillestate.com
WILLIAM HILL Napa Valley Reserve 2002 Chardonnay $20 is 100% Chardonnay from the Carneros and Atlas Peak appellations, representing careful vineyard sourcing and meticulous barrel aging and a style of distinctive flavor and fruit. Carneros is known for forward fruit quality with distinct tropical nuances. Atlas Peak Chardonnay develops appealing stone fruit flavors and provides firm structure. "Our Reserve Chardonnay offers elegant, lush fruit flavors, complemented by toasty oak and spice notes from French oak barrel aging. Full malolactic fermentation contributes a lingering hint of butterscotch. Pair with shellfish, seafood and poultry. The supple oak helps pairing with veal or pork, especially dishes that feature a cream sauce.
WILLIAM HILL Napa Valley 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon $20: "A long, mild growing season allowed the grapes ripen evenly and develop excellent flavor. This wine is balanced, fruit-driven wine that exhibits aromas and flavors of raspberry, blackberry and cassis supplemented by supple tannins and a lingering finish, pair with roasted prime rib, grilled veal or rosemary lamb chops
WATTLE CREEK is named for the blossom of the Australian wattle tree, known in America as the acacia. The golden bloom of the tree is Australia's national flower. Australian natives Kristine and Chris Williams created WATTLE CREEK in 1994, when they purchased 56-acre vineyard and winery property in Alexander Valley, Sonoma County. Specializing in Australian varieties, they looked for land with a climate similar to the warm Barossa Valley, South Australia. Not long after, they also purchased 600 acres on the Sonoma/Mendocino County line in the Yorkshire Highlands. And another lovely plus is that my talented friend Michael Scholz, also a native Australian, is the winemaker. Now there is a new Wattle Creek tasting room in San Francisco's historic Ghirardelli Square. ADW President & CEO Bill Newlands says, "Wattle Creek -- an ultra-premium winery focused on the production of high end varietals including Cabernet and Shiraz from Alexander Valley and Sauvignon Blanc from Mendocino County – has appointed ADW as their sole sales agent for the US."
WATTLE CREEK 2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino $15: "citrus, grapefruit, lime, with rich flavors and generous ripe fruit, crisp acidity, pair with seafood, oysters, smoked salmon or trout"
WATTLE CREEK 2002 Chardonnay, Mendocino $20: "ripe tropical fruits, lemon, toasted oak and butter, tangy melon with soft creamy texture and terrific structure, pair with sea bass, shrimp roasted with saffron and quail with peaches"
WATTLE CREEK 2001 Shiraz, Alexander Valley $25: "ripe blueberry, black pepper, toasted oak, anise, hint of dusty earth, great structure, pair with braised short ribs, veal, venison, roasted chicken"
WATTLE CREEK 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley $35: "complex, ripe rapberry, cassis, smoy oak, black currant, long finish, pair with rib-eye steak, duck, cassoulet"
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FETZER began as a small family winery and is now the sixth largest producer of premium wines. BONTERRA is the organic property. Vineyard manager David Koball says, "We honor the land by farming organically, creating rich soils providing healthy vines an opportunity to deliver wonderfully flavored fruit. In every sip, you'll taste our natural commitment. Mendocino, through and through." Both are members of the Brown-Forman Wine Company--the 7th largest wine company in the US, according to WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY. Please see www.Fetzer.com for recipes to pair with all wines.
FETZER 2004 Valley Oaks Pinot Grigio, California $9: "Light, lean and clean, made in a crisp style to pair with many foods, it has a steel-mineral characte with brisk acidity to counter fatter seafood dishes and higher acid foods like tomatoes."
FETZER 2002 Valley Oaks Zinfandel, California $9: "Ripe, full-flavored with elegance ad structure, aromas and flavors of berries, clove, chocolate, a dense and rich palate with intense flavors, pair with barbecue and grilled foods. See recipes www.Fetzer.com
FETZER2004 Valley Oaks Syrah Rose, California $9: " appealing for its simple fruit-forward style and delicate body, refreshing, with great flavor, floral hints and light tannins, pair chilled with mild cheeses and fruit, salads, see recipes at www.Fetzer.com
FETZER 2004 Valley Oaks Chardonnay, California $9: "Aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, pineapple, lemon, jasmine, apple, pear and vanilla, medium body, rich mouthfeel, pair with light-sauced pastas,mushroom dishes and goat cheese."
FETZER 2004 Valley Oaks Merlot, California $9: "Aromas and flavors of plums, blackberry jam, creamy vanilla, clove, cinnamon, tobac, smooth tannins and toasty spice, pair with grilled meats and hearty stews, lasagna, eggplant Parmigiana and robust pastas."
BONTERRA 2001 Syrah, Mendocino $15: "Mendocino's Mediterranean climate has proven ideal for growing memorable Syrah. A variety of rootstocks and clones are planted and we pick in small bins and ferment in small, open-top fermenters. This wine has aromas and flavors of orange blossom, bramble berry jam with hints of pepper and black walnut, smooth tannins with rich berry, hearty blackberry and chocolate with vanilla."
BONTERRA 2002 Merlot, Mendocino $15: "Hints of cedar spice with wintergreen, cassis and Bing cherries, soft tannins with good structure, notes of cranberry, cherry layered with vanilla and toasty oak."
BONTERRA 2004 Viognier, Mendocino $19: Winemaker Bob Blue says, "Viognier Clone 642 does well in the loamy soils and blended with rootstocks 101-14, 5C and 110R, the fruit is a pleasure to make into this wine--concentrated flavors of nectarines, peaches, apricots and floral notes with vanilla, crisp and creamy, pair with spicy dishes and roast meats.".
JEKEL 2004 Riesling, Monterey $12: "Delightful peach, apricot, orange blossom and jasmine, a mélange of lemon, apple, peach and pineapple with a rich mouthfeel and good acid balance, pair this off-dry wine with spicy Asian foods."
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FESS PARKER remains phenomenally admired and loved by his numerous fans of previous television fame and currently for his the fame of his FESS PARKER winery wines. I had a lovely telephone conversation with Fess recently for an article I wrote on him for THE PEAK. He is as charming as ever and vibrantly interested in his various works in progress--not the least of which was getting to ready to perform at Disneyland for its 50th anniversary celebration. Still, our focus is wine and the family wines are easy to praise. Son Eli Parker capably oversees the winemaking and vineyard operations for FESS PARKER WINERY and his special label, EPIPHANY. Several family members participate in various winery jobs much to the delight of patriarch Fess. Try the wines listed below for your pleasure and assessment. I was especially delighted with the quality of the buyer-friendly bottles of PARKER STATION and FRONTIER RED.
FESS PARKER 2003 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara $18
FESS PARKER 2003 Estate Chardonnay, Ashley's Vineyard $26
FESS PARKER 2003 Viognier, Santa Barbara $18
FESS PARKER 2001 Syrah, Santa Barbara $22
FESS PARKER 2001 Estate Syrah, Rodney's Vineyard, $40
FESS PARKER 2003 Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara $24
FESS PARKER 2003 Pinot Noir, Ashley's Vineyard $45
FESS PARKER 2003 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido $50
PARKER STATION by Fess Parker 2002 Syrah, Santa Barbara $12
PARKER STATION by Fess Parker 2002 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara $12
FRONTIER RED by Fess Parker 2002 Red Table wine, Santa Barbara $12
EPIPHANY 2001 Syrah, Hampton Vineyard $35
EPIPHANY 2002 Petite Sirah, Rodnet's Vineyard $25
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RAYMOND VINEYARD & CELLAR 2003 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Napa $12.50: "Aromas and flavors of kiwi, grapefruit and lemon grass with hints of orange blossom and mineral, crisp apple, and honeydew, pair with creamy, rich and saltier cheeses like Gruyere, Caesar salad, grilled chicken and shrimp."
RAYMOND VINEYARD & CELLAR 2003 Reserve Chardonnay, Napa $18: "Aromas and flavors of vanilla bean, baked pears and hint of cantaloupe, a medley of harmonious flavors, caramel, jasmine and lemon, balanced and crisp, pair with roasted chicken or grilled salmon, cream sauce pastas."
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DRY CREEK VINEYARD (DCV) has a 30-year reputation for excellent Zinfandel. The 2002 has a new label and retains the "Old Vine" designation it coined in the 1980s. DCV defines Old Vine Zin as wine that is produced from vines averaging at least 50 years old. With average yields of less than 1.5 tons per acre, winemaker William Knuttel handles each lot with the utmost care. Five vineyards contribute Zinfandel with DCV's oldest vines dating back to 1896. Beeson Ranch is perhaps the best known, planted in the 1800s by Italian immigrants.
DRY CREEK VINEYARD 2002 Old Vine Zinfandel, Sonoma County $25: Winemaker Knuttel says, "Balanced and concentrated, this wine is the best blend from our finest Sonoma sites. It has aromas of black pepper, cinnamon and spice, an impressive depth with flavors of dark fruits, berry, cherry and plum, and a wonderful harmony. Pair with grilled meats, pastas and spicy cuisine."
DRY CREEK VINEYARD 2003 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley $16: "Complex with a mixture of rich mineral, fig, anise, citrus and smoky notes with a focus that leads to a long, rich finish."
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RED BICYCLETTE has released its second vintage of approachable and inviting French wines from the Languedoc-Rousillon region. It has just introduced a dry-style French Rose. Produced and bottled in "sun-drenched southern France, the wines embody the joie de vivre synonymous with the delightful lifestyle of the French countryside--lavender hillsides, fields of flowers, ripe fruit and as easy to enjoy as riding a bicycle." The first two-wheeled rider-propelled machine was invented by German Baron Karl Von Drais De Saurbrun in 1817. The draisienne was wooden with two wheels connected by a beam and considered a form of entertainment rather than a mode of transportation. The improved concept of the 1820s was called a hobby horse, expensive and owned by nobility. In the 1860s Frenchman Michaux attached cranks and pedals to the front wheel--now called vélocipède--built with iron tires and wheels and nicknamed 'boneshaker.' Popular, hundreds appeared throughout Europe. Pierre Lallemet patented the first American vélocipède in 1866 and two years later the word bicycle was first used in Europe. A British engineer produced the 'Penny-Farthing' around 1873--with a front wheel three times the size of the back wheel and rubber tires--but unstable. Improvements continued and in 1880--two wheels of nearly equal size, pedals drove the rear wheel through gears and chains. The bicycle craze took off in 1899--one million produced in America. In 1903 the first Tour de France was held. In 1975, 50 million bicycles were produced worldwide and in 2000, 100 million."
RED BICYCLETTE 2004 French Rose, Vin de Pays $10: "The blend has evenly ripened, concentrated, full-flavored grapes--syrah (40%) delivers rich fruit and structure; grenache imparts softness and roundness; pinot noir gives bright fruit character."
RED BICYCLETTE 2004 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays$10: "Rich flavors characterized by ripe pear and peach and hints of white flowers and vanilla."
RED BICYCLETTE 2004 Syrah, Vin de Pays $10: "Rich blueberry and blackberry aromas, supple, full and generous palate with brown spices."
RED BICYCLETTE 2002 Merlot, Vin de Pays $10: "Aromas and flavors of black currant, Bing cherry, hints of spice and toasty oak, rounded and generous.'
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ST. FRANCIS Winery & Vineyards 2003 Reserve Chardonnay, Behler Vineyard, Sonoma Valley $ 25: "Behler, our estate vineyard in the heart of Sonoma Valley, provides the majority of grapes for this big, buttery Chardonnay. Its volcanic rock and loam have provided St. Francis with grapes of structure and integrity for all our previous reserve Chardonnay vintages. We harvest the fruit at its peak, and then ferment it in new French oak barrels with 100% malolactic treatment. After aging nine months, with occasional stirring of the lees, we select only the finest barrels for our reserve blend. The finished wine has a bouquet of tropical and exotic fruits fragrant with new oak and vanilla. On the palate, the fruit flavors are fully concentrated, and the texture is rich and buttery, supported by balanced acidity and firm structure."
ST. FRANCIS 2001 Reserve Merlot, Behler, Sonoma Valley $45: "This wine honors the Behler family, who first cultivated the rich Sonoma Valley floor land in the early 1900s, and is St. Francis’ original estate vineyard and winery site. Well-drained rock and gravel topped with rich loam ensures abundant concentrated fruit. The valley microclimate, tempered by cooling breezes and morning fogs from both the Pacific and San Francisco Bay, is an essential key in the development of superior complex flavors of cherry, chocolate, coffee, and plum that distinguish this wine. Throughout the growing season vine canopies are thinned for increased sun exposure, which further concentrates flavor and color. Hand-picked in late September, the fruit was crushed, fermented, pressed, racked into oak, and aged twenty-four months, then held an additional ten months before release."
ST. FRANCIS 2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Nuns Canyon, Sonoma County $45: "High on the steep, terraced slopes of the Mayacamas Mountain range lies the Nuns Canyon region. With strong western exposure and shallow, rocky soils, this terroir renders unusually concentrated grapes marked by deep color, abundant tannins, and flavors ranging from cassis to mint and black cherry to chocolate. Our grapes were hand-picked and crushed into stainless steel tanks, where fermentation took place over eight to fifteen days, followed by malolactic fermentation which took place over the next six weeks. Racked into French and American oak barrels, the wine was then aged for twenty-four months before being bottled and held for another twelve months before release."
ST. FRANCIS 2002 Reserve Zinfandel, Pagani, Sonoma Valley $45: "Planted over a hundred years ago by Felice Pagani, the legendary Pagani Vineyard
produces as little as one or two tons per acre of intensely flavored clusters that ripen at unusually high sugar levels. The occasional Alicante Bouschet vines dotted among the Zinfandel contribute to a deep purple blend rich with jammy fruit. For the 2002 vintage, we hand-picked the grapes in October and crushed them into stainless steel tanks. Fermented over twelve to eighteen days, the wine was then racked into new American oak barrels and aged for twelve to fifteen months. Bottled without fining, it was held another four to eight months before release. This is a bold wine with dark hints of licorice,
chocolate, pepper, and black plum."
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CLOS PEGASE 2003 Mitsuko's Vineyard Chardonnay, Carneros, Napa Valley $21: "ripe fruit, pear, melon, peach and apricot, balanced with toasty oak and hints of fig, straw, honeysuckle and butterscotch, a soft broad entry leads to rich palate and elegant finish"
CLOS PEGASE 2003 Mitsuko's Vineyard Merlot, Carneros, Napa Valley $25: "mulberry and red currant nose, hints of mint, leather, earth and licorice, wood-smoke and complexity, dense, full and structured, long finish"
CLOS PEGASE 2003 Mitsuko's Vineyard Chardonnay, Carneros, Napa Valley $33: "cassis, blackberry, licorice, mint, cocoa, earth, black olive, and cedary oak, rich and mouth filling, dense and refined finish with fine tannins"
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KENWOOD 2004 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County $15: "aromas and full flavors of lemongrass, pear, herb, lime, melon, mouth filling, smooth, crisp finish"
KENWOOD 2004 Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley $20: "aromas and flavors of apples, citrus blossom, vanilla, hint of cream, lush, rich, full and viscose texture, balanced by generous acidity, fresh lingering finish"
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FOREST GLEN 2004 Pinot Grigio, California $10: "no wood, straightforward, clean peach flavors characterize this clean, light, delicate and crisp wine"
FOREST GLEN 2004 White Merlot, California $10: "aromas and flavors of raspberries and cut watermelon, slightly tart, well balanced, fruity, reddish-pink wine"
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SCHRAMSBERG sparkling wines remain favorites.
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BLACK SWAN Vineyards are named for Australia's black swam, a creature that symbolizes the beauty of the vineyards and elegance of the wines.
BLACK SWAN Vineyards 2004 Shiraz & Merlot, Australia $10: "Shiraz provides dark berry flavors and hint of black pepper while Merlot adds sweet, ripe plum and a soft velvety mouth feel, enjoy with grilled meats and rich pastas."
BLACK SWAN Vineyards 2004 Shiraz & Cabernet, Australia $10: "Shiraz delivers raspberry flavors and a touch of spice while the Cab provides rich blackberry and fine grained tannins, structure and length, enjoy with grilled beef or lamb."
BLACK SWAN Vineyards 2004Chardonnay & Semillon, Australia $10: "Chardonnay provides sweet melon flavors and texture, while the Semillon adds lively citrus notes with overtones of honey, creating a delicate acidity and fresh, clean finish, enjoy with seafood, salads and Asian fare."
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CLOS DU BOIS 2003 Shiraz, Sonoma County $14: "Aromas and flavaors of blueberry and black cherry, highlighted by clove, vanilla sweet tabac and smoky oak, velvety mouth feel with ripe berries and spices, fully developed tannin structure with long fruit finish"
CLOS DU BOIS 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $17: "Aromas and flavors of black currant, blackberry, licorice and black pepper highlighted by spicy oak, medium-bodied mouth feel with supple texture and great spicy finish"
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VALLEY OF THE MOON 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $20: "Similar to traditional Bordeaux red: aromatic, lean, delicate and structured with black berry, black currant and mint"
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RODNEY STRONG 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley $19: "Supple in texture with rose petal and red fruit aromas, a lively medium body, subtle oak and toasty vanilla character, a well-knit wine that's smooth and delicious"
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CAMPANILE 2004 Pinot Grigio, Tre Venezie, Italy $10: "Floral notes with nuances of pear and honeydew melon, harmony of fruit and acid give a full structure and crisp, lively mouth feel, a light bodied wine with hints of citrus and almonds, pair with seafood pasta, chicken"
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GRGICH HILLS 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley comes from a roller coaster start of 2001 growing season that led to near perfect temperatures and cool nights to ensure fully ripe Cabernet grapes with mature phenolics and balanced acids and tannins
GRGICH HILLS 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $55: "This trademark bouquet has intense cassis and cedar, followed by nuances of roses, licorice and dried cherries. On the palate, rich extraction is balanced by moderate tannins and acidity. Ripe black fruit, plums and dark cherries harmonize in the mouth with notes of cigar box, anise and spicy oak to form this elegant, full-bodied wine. THis finish is concentrated and persistent with layers of mocha, cassis, cherries, and vanilla. This young, structured wine should mature well over the next several years, developing additional complexity and depth of flavor." Golds medals from 2005 San Diego Intnat.; 2005 L.A. County Fair; 2005 Finger Lakes Intnat.; Double Gold 2005 Tasters Guild Intnat.; "Best Cabernet Sauvignon" 2005 L.A. County Fair.
GRGICH HILLS 2004 Estate Fume Blanc, Napa Valley $24: "In a word, stunning. Even before the grapes came in last August, we knew this would be the best Fume Blanc we have produced. It's very much in the style of the 2003, with a floral and citrus bouquet, pink grapefruit, spice and brisk acidity that make it such a good food partner or crisp and refreshing to drink on a warm summer day. Extremely low yields (three tones per A.) gave amazing concentration of mango, passion fruit, guava while restraining the acidity and balance Grgich is known for."
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ELYSE Winery owner and winemaker Ray Coursen works with his wife Nancy in their Napa Valley vineyards and together they run the winery. "In 1983, Nancy and I were working in Cape Cod restaurants and I asked her when she’d be ready to move to California," Ray says. "I had a dream of learning to make wine. 'Tomorrow,'” she said. "Eventually, we moved to Napa Valley and eventually, in 1987, we started Elyse Wines with 286 cases of Zinfandel. For a decade we were nomads, buying grapes and crushing at various custom crush facilities, and then in1997, we finally bought a small winery on Hoffman Lane."
ELYSE 2004 Rosé, Napa $15, "is blends Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Valdiguié, Barbera, Carígnane, Grenache, Syrah, Grand Noir, and Alicante Bouchet. A small portion of juice is bled off ('saignee') the chilled must. The juice is then allowed to ferment naturally to dryness in experienced barrels. This Rosé is made in the style of the wonderful rosés of Tavel and Livac. Aromas of raspberries, strawberries, and rhubarb with refreshing minerality and crisp acidity. Rosés are a great companion to most foods and are just plain fun to drink!"
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ANDRETTI Winery, established in 1996 takes its inspiration from founder and auto racing champion Mario Andretti. When he retired in 1994, a commemorative wine was produced to honor him. That event sparked his interest in owning a winery. Consequently, he teamed up with his former associate, Joe Antonini, who was chairman and CEO of K-Mart--a major sponsor of racer Andretti. They formed the Andretti Wine Group (AWG Limited), a public stock company, to acquire the property and build Andretti Winery, with Antonini serving as Chairman and Andretti as Vine Chairman. They own 49.7% of the company. There are two product lines: Selections - California ($9 to $13) and Andretti Napa Valley ($14-$28), both available nationally. Winemaker Bob Pepi has been with the Andretti Winery since the formation of the company.
ANDRETTI Winery 2001 Merlot $22: "This wines blends 91% Merlot with 9% Sangiovese and spends 14 months in French oak. It begins with a semi-sweet nose that has notes of roasted almonds and toffee. The mouth is rich with flavors of cedar, cherries and smoke. Balanced acidity and ample tannins will allow further aging. The wine is perfect with your favorite hearty foods."
ANDRETTI Selections 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast $13: "This wine blends 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.5% Merlot and 2.5% Sangiovese and spends 12 months in French oak. Aromas of black cherry and cassis with tobacco hints present a full, rich mouth feel with supple tannins and a smooth finish with balanced acidity. Enjoy with with rich, full-bodied foods."
ANDRETTI Selections 2004 Chardonnay, Central Coast $11: "This wines blends 88% Chardonnay with 12% Chenin Blanc and has bright crispness with aromas of necarine and green apples, a buttery mouth feel with honeysuckle, vanilla and toasty oak."
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CANYON ROAD 2004 Chardonnay, California $10: "This lightly oaked wine displays ripe melon and tropical fruit flavors. Hints of vanilla and caramel round out a distinctive aroma, balanced acidity, bright green apple and stone fruits complement a luscious texture, enjoy with chicken, fish and pasta."
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LOST CREEK WINERY has a trio of enthusiastic wine principals: , Jack States, Randy Keyworth and Bob Riskin. Bob says, "Lost Canyon Winery’s focus is on producing small lots (2000 cases) of cool climate, vineyard designated Pinot Noir and Syrah from the Russian River, Sonoma Coast, and Los Carneros appellations. While 2001 was our first commercial release, Jack, Randy and I have been crafting our art since 1978. Small production is the core of our philosophy to make world-class wines. It enables us to use all our senses in the individual decisions about our wines according to their unique timetable, not the reverse. Ultimately, we guide and influence the wine to meet its innate potential. Each wines reflects the unique “terrior” of its vineyard. We're partners with Sonoma County's best growers in creating these exceptional wines. All three of us have been seduced by Pinot Noir and Syrah--by the complexity, subtlety, and delicacy of exceptional Pinot Noir: Our Syrah has its own magical attributes, the body and complexity we desire, and insight into the syrah flavors that this highly adaptable grape can provide."
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Dutton Ranch, Morelli Lane Vineyard, $38: "delicious fruit-forward and complex characteristics with deep color and intense notes of cherries, spice, and some cedar, a nice structure, long finish and balance (less than 220 cases)."
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Saralee's Vineyard $38: "The inviting nose leads to a fruit forward wine with light spice, red cherry and strawberry flavors, extremely fine balance and a great complement to food. (less than 275 cases)."
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Pinot Noir, Los Carneros, Las Brisas $38: "ruby red color, light berry/cherry notes and a hint of spice and mint, very well balanced with just the right hints of oak (less than 365 cases).
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Syrah, Russian River Valley, Alegria Vineyard $33: "Alegria Vineyard, located on rolling landscape, benefits from cool breezes and morning ocean fog that recedes to warm sunny days--perfect conditions for our Syrah, a violet color with cedar, spice, cassis, blackberry, and earth, an elegant structure with a great finish (less than 200 cases)."
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Syrah, Russian River Valley, Trenton Station Vineyard $35: "the combination of fog, gentle breezes, and warm afternoons allow grapes to slowly ripen until the flavors are intense and ready to be picked. This wine is very dark purple with a great burst of blackberry fruit mixed with leather and meat, a luscious mouth feel and lasting finish. The wine is one that can be savored all evening by itself or with fine meats and pasta (less than 150 cases)."
LOST CANYON WINERY 2003 Syrah, Sonoma coast, Stage Gulch Vineyard, $33: "Beautiful deep purple color it has flavors of blackberry, leather, tobacco, and spice. The wine has complex tannins and crisp acidity (less than 150 cases)."
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