The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  73rd Edition
September 16, 2005


TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $Best Buy

 
WINERY OF THE MONTH: Gloria Ferrer.    GLORIA FERRER has been a unique experience for me over the years.  I attended the ground breaking for the property.  Then I was there while the building was under construction.  And, I returned for the opening of the winery.  And when My book TOP CHEFS IN TEXAS was published, co-owner, family-members Begonia and Pedro Ferrer invited me and four of the chefs in my cookbook to be their guests for a dinner held at the winery and hosted by David Narsi.  Owned by the Ferrer Family from Barcelona, Spain, Gloria Ferrer is located at the gateway to the Sonoma wine country on the pastoral Carneros Highway (23555 Hwy 121). Only 50 minutes from San Francisco, the winery should be on wine lovers’ first or last stop to a day in wine country.   Six sparkling wines and seven still wines are produced there, most of which are available nation-wide.  Some of the limited production sparkling and still wines are reserved exclusively for sale at the winery, including the Brut Rosé and the single vineyard Gravel Knob and Rust Rock Pinot Noirs.   The winery has been awarded more than 100 gold medals in the last five years for both its sparkling and still wines. In 2004, Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut was the only California sparkling wine on the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list.  With two days of excellent wine, Spanish food and lively music, Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves celebrated its Spanish and Catalán heritage at the winery’s 13th annual Catalán Festival of Food, Wine and Music held at the winery in July.  To commemorate the winery’s opening in July 1986, and as a homage to Barcelona, Catalonia’s enchanted city, Gloria Ferrer was transformed into a Mediterranean mecca for the senses. The Festival brought together the award-winning sparkling and still wines of Gloria Ferrer, Spanish tastes from renowned restaurants and cooking demonstrations from the Bay Area’s top toques. Music from Spanish guitars and invigorating Flamenco dancing and Sardana (traditional Catalan dance) accompanied the gustatory festivities, and the festival also featured the dance of the “Gegants” (traditional 15-foot-tal l, papier-maché, puppet-like figures), a must-see for children and adults alike. (for detailed schedule of events at www.gloriaferrer.com)

SPLURGE WINE OF THE MONTH: Jarvis 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $75--well worth the splurge!
NEWS
COURTS in New York, Connecticut and Ohio have declared the states' discriminatory shipping laws to be unconstitutional.  As a result of the court  order, wineries may now legally ship wine to consumers in in these states.
CHALK HILL WINERY SOMMELIER GUIDE to RESTAURANTS in AMERICA featuring 2100 of the country's best restaurants and ultimate food and wine pairings, has released its fourth edition.  Supported by several wineries--Jordan, Hanzell, Silver Oak, Chateau Montelena, Ferrari-Carano, Kendall-Jackson--the book praises American sommeliers with the wineries' spokespersons acknowledging that the often unsung position of sommelier is truly a linchpin connection.  For information:  kdilley@chalkhill.com 
BONNY DOON Owner Randall Graham has written a clever and masterful variation--an individualized vinous interpretation,  of Dante's Divine Comedy titled "Da Vino Commedia."  Thanks, also, to Graham's talented associate, public relation director John Locke, for his tasting notes.   This singular tome of wit is not for a cursory glance, but rather, a dedicated  peruse.    One can only wonder how the brightly excited synapses click  in Graham's nimble mind. 
FRANCISCAN ESTATES, a fine wine company based in Napa Valley, has announced a new company name, ICON ESTATES, to better reflect its growing portfolio.  "ICON is a portfolio of wineries, vineyards and estates that represents icons of the fine wines world," said Jon Moramarco, Icon president and CEO.  "From To Kalon in Oakville to Simi's 100-year-old stone cellars and Ravenswood's 'no wimpy wines,'  each property has its own reason for being relevant, historic and vibrant in today's wine business.  Founded in 1972 as Franciscan Vineyards, the Icon Estates portfolio was developed over 20 years with a vision and commitment to producing wines that represent great vineyards and appellations and relevant categories.  Our commitment to producing wines with a reason for being of the highest quality remains our cornerstone."  The portfolio includes: Franciscan, Mount Veeder, Robert Mondavi, Simi, Estancia, Ravenswood in California and in other regions; Columbia Winery in Washington; and others around the world.  Icon is the fine wine division of Constellation Brands.
FANTESCA Estate & Winery, a new 1000-case Spring Mountain winery, announces its first "Hands-on Harvest" program on Friday, October 7, 2005.   The Crush Crew, wine aficionados and budding vintners, can experience Fantesca's  harvest for a day—without having to quit their day jobs!  Begin with 8:30 a.m. coffee, fresh fruit and baked goods—ample morning fuel to help tackle harvest.  Work alongside Proprietors Susan and Duane Hoff, Associate Winemaker Jon Leahy and the Fantesca harvest crew, who will demonstrate a day in the life of harvest. Duane Hoff will teach the crew about the Spring Mountain District and Fantesca’s 9-acre vineyard, while Jon Leahy will demonstrate when grapes have reached optimal ripeness and appropriate Brix levels. The Crush Crew will have careful tutoring on how to pick and meticulously sort the grapes (using Fantesca’s Le Trieur triple-sorting system), as well as the "how and why" of tank punch downs.  Aspiring winemakers are encouraged to be as hands-on as they wish and should wear comfortable clothes and shoes. Lunch follows at the Hoff's home.  The cost is $650 per person at Fantesca’s winery at 2920 Spring Mountain Road, five minutes from St. Helena. Please note that the winery is not normally open to the public. "Hands-on Harvest" is limited to 16 people, enabling the Crush Crew the opportunity to learn, pick, sort and taste to their hearts’ content. As space is extremely limited, Fantesca suggests reserving as soon as possible by calling the winery at 952.324.8988 or via email at info@fantesca.com.   FANTESCA ESTATE & WINERY does not have a tasting room.   Shop online at www.fantesca.com or call the winery  952.324.8988 to purchase or join the mailing list.
CHEF THOMAS KELLER AND PENFOLDS’ PETER GAGO PAIR WINE DINNERS:  The French Laundry in Yountville and Per Se in New York City.    Penfolds, "Australia’s Most Famous Wine," announces Penfolds’ Icon Dinners September, 2005.  Together, Chef Thomas Keller and Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago will offer two evenings of world-class cuisine and specially selected Penfolds wines in California and New York.  Dinner at Yountville's The French Laundry  on September 20th,  at NY City's Per Se in New York, City on September 28th.   Thomas Keller is internationally renowned for his culinary pursuits.  Both his widely acclaimed restaurants reflect Chef Keller’s intense attention to detail that extends to cuisine, presentation, mood and surroundings.  “Keller is a visionary and an icon in the culinary world,” enthuses Peter Gago, Penfolds Chief Winemaker.  “It is a great honor to work with him to pair our award-winning wines with his creative, internationally renowned cuisine.”  As one of the world’s most influential winemakers, Peter Gago is recognized for his talent, vision, and passion.  His direction makes Penfolds a cornerstone of Australian wine innovation and experimentation, while highlighting the very best of Australian viticultural and regional history.  The Penfolds wines featured at the Icon Dinners will include Penfolds Grange as well limited-production Penfolds wines selected personally by Peter Gago from the Penfolds cellars.  “I carefully chose a selection of our wines, from both cellar and barrel that stood out for their structure, complexity, and length to best highlight the brilliant flavours and textures of Chef Keller’s cuisine. These dinners will be very special indeed.” Both of the Penfolds Icon Dinners are currently sold out to the general public.  Photographic images will be available shortly after each event, upon request. 
WOMEN SPUR NEW TREND IN WINE MARKETING: The WINE INSTITUTE reports that “Men prefer beer; women prefer wine,” according to a 2005 Gallup Poll.  That has been the trend for more than a decade and likely beyond although wine continues to gain in popularity among both sexes and for the first time has edged out beer as Americans’ preferred drink.  Women make up 52 percent of the adult population and purchase 55 percent of the wine consumed in the United States.   They represent a huge market with great purchasing power that until recently has been overlooked. According to experts, women are less influenced by wine ratings, as they tend to judge the entire product. Although the wine quality is important to women, so are the label design, the bottle shape and the philosophy of the winery.  In response to this growing awareness of women’s influence, a new wine magazine was recently launched specifically targeted to this economically significant segment of the market. The publication highlights recommendations from experts and focuses on lifestyle topics relating to food and wine. There are also several books currently on the market that are written by women for the feminine wine lover. A greater marketing awareness toward women consumers is emerging as a trend in the 21st century. This has been brought about partly by women themselves gaining stature in the industry. They inherently recognize that women comprise a major market, representing more than 50 percent of all wine purchasing decisions. It makes good business sense to make sure that communication messages have appeal to women. 
AGREEMENT EXPANDS CALIFORNIA WINEMAKERS' OPPORTUNITIES FOR U.S. PRODUCERS IN EUROPE:  The Wine Institute reports that a historic agreement caps more than 20 years of wine trade talks.  California winemakers cheered the announcement by U.S. Trade Representative Rob Portman that an agreement has been reached with European Community (EC) negotiators on key provisions of wine trade talks that began in 1983.  The Wine Institute, whose members export 95 percent of U.S. wine, issued a letter to James Murphy, Assistant U.S. Trade Representative who led the negotiations on behalf of the U.S. government, acknowledging “outstanding progress on wine trade issues of critical importance to the growth of our industry.”  The agreement addresses key wine trade issues including recognition of winemaking practices, recognition of U.S. place names in Europe and the use of semi-generic names. It is the first phase of a broader agreement intended to promote trade between the United States and the European Community which are major growth markets for one another’s exports. “The United States has the most open wine market in the world,” said Robert P. ‘Bobby’ Koch, President and CEO of the Wine Institute, “and European winemakers have long enjoyed unfettered access to U.S. consumers.  This agreement promises U.S. wineries a level of certainty that our wines will have long-term access to European markets such as the United Kingdom where consumers have embraced wines from California and other states.” Total U.S. wine exports reached a record $736 million in revenues in 2004.  Sixty-six percent of U.S. wine exports ($487 million) were shipped to countries in the European Community, the largest market for American wines.
FALL FESTIVITIES at FALL CREEK VINEYARDS:  Fall Creek Vineyards invites visitors to enjoy relaxing time at the vineyard with live music by guitarist Gerardo Ramirez to complement wine and food from the gourmet food section in celebration of October as Texas Wine Month, Saturday, October 1st, 11:00am – 5:00pm.  Winery Chef Elisabeth Miller will offer appetizers to complement FALL CREEK wine and music on the vineyard patio.  Call the winery for reservations for special events or your own private event: 325/379-5361 or see our web-site for special offerings: www.fcv.com   Check all Texas wineries for celebrations during TEXAS WINE MONTH in OCTOBER.
SARAH JANE joined ten other writers to attend Diageo's Crush Camp program in Napa Valley.  "Harvest is underway and the grapes look great!  We measured Brix and picked grapes in Sterling's Three Palm vineyard.  We had seminars and worked various activities at Provenance, Acacia, Beaulieu and Moon Mountain.   More later.
2002 INSIGNIA RELEASE: Joseph Phelps Vineyards announced the release of the 2002 Insignia.  If you ordered futures, or are a Flagship Club or Collectors' Club member, the wine will ship at the end of October.  If you did not,  orders will be taken immediately although shipment will depend on weather conditions being cool enough to safely transport the wine. 
MESSINA HOF wins International Honors:  Messina Hof awarded six medals by Indy International Wine Competition, Indianapolis. Messina Hof’s gold and bronze winnings make it Texas’ most awarded winery of the competition, which is hosted by the Indiana State Fair.   “We're honored to be recognized among so many top national and global wines,” said Paul Bonarrigo, owner/winemaker.  “To know that world experts find our wines worthy of medals rewards the work that goes into each bottle.”  Two gold medals went to Messina Hof Private Reserve Shiraz 2004 and Paulo Merlot 2002, and four bronzes went to  Barrel Reserve Cabernet Franc 2004, Paulo Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Paulo Special Edition Blend 2002 and the Paulo Port 2002.    Among the 3,700 wines entered, 391 were awarded medals. 
 

 
NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)
  MATUA VALLEY 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $12:  Winemaker Joanne Gear says, "This wine has distinctive and vibrant aromas of gooseberry, passion fruit and floral citrus.  It is well-proportioned and concentrated ripe tropical aromas and flavors that flow into the palate and linger on the refreshing and lively finish.  Pair with oysters, vegetable soups and light seafood."
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DOMECQ was originally founded to produce a full line of ultra premium sherries.  It succeeded so well, it has traditionally provided the Spanish and English Royal Families with their private Sherry reserve.  ALLIED DOMECQ owns WILLIAM HILL WINERY and imports COCKBURN'S PORTO and markets and distributes many other properties in its portfolio.   
ALLIED DOMECQ Wines USA (ADW) is the American fine wine division of Allied Domecq PLC.  Since the creation of a global wine division in 2001, ADM has grown to become one of the most diverse wine companies in the world.  The California portfolio consists of super-premium wines such as Atlas Peak®, Buena Vista® Winery, Callaway Coastal®, Clos du Bois®, Gary Farrell®, Haywood Estate®, J. Garcia®, Jake's Fault®, Mumm Napa®, Wattle Creek® and William Hill Winery®.  The company also owns and manages the US marketing, sales and distribution for Allied Domecq’s global wine brands, including Azure Bay®, Champagne Perrier Jouët® and Champagne Mumm® of France, Cockburn’s Port® from Portugal, Graffigna® from Argentina, Brancott® Vineyards, Stoneleigh® and Lindauer® from New Zealand, as well as Harveys Bristol Cream®, Domecq® sherries, Marques de Arienzo®, Campo Viejo®, Ysios®, Tarsus®, Aura® and Villarei® wines from Spain.  For further information on Allied Domecq Wines USA please visit
www.allieddomecqwines.com
William Hill Estate has produced rich, intense Napa Valley wines with a distinctive elegance since 1978, steadily building a reputation for top-notch Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.  Now guided by winemaker Richard Sowalsky and noted viticulturist Tony Fernandez, the winery is taking this tradition a step further emphasizes smart, sustainable viticulture and meticulous modern winemaking techniques. William Hill Estate works primarily with fruit from its 142-acres of estate vineyards adjacent to the winery on the Silverado Bench in the southeast corner of the Napa Valley.   The winery also maintains an 80-acre vineyard dedicated to Chardonnay in Carneros, which is known for producing crisp, varietal expressions of the grape.  Learn more about William Hill Estate at: www.williamhillestate.com
WATTLE CREEK is named for the blossom of the Australian wattle tree, known in America as the acacia.  The golden bloom of the tree is Australia's national flower.  Australian natives Kristine and Chris Williams created WATTLE CREEK in 1994, when they purchased 56-acre vineyard and winery property in Alexander Valley, Sonoma County.  Specializing in Australian varieties, they looked for land with a climate similar to the warm Barossa Valley, South Australia.  Not long after, they also purchased 600 acres on the Sonoma/Mendocino County line in the Yorkshire Highlands.  And another lovely plus is that my talented friend Michael Scholz, also a native Australian, is the winemaker.    Now there is a new Wattle Creek tasting room in San Francisco's historic Ghirardelli Square.  ADW President & CEO Bill Newlands says, "Wattle Creek -- an ultra-premium winery focused on the production of high end varietals including Cabernet and Shiraz from Alexander Valley and Sauvignon Blanc from Mendocino County – has appointed ADW as their sole sales agent for the US."
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FETZER began as a small family winery and is now the sixth largest producer of premium wines.  BONTERRA is the organic property.  Vineyard manager David Koball says, "We honor the land by farming organically, creating rich soils providing healthy vines an opportunity to deliver wonderfully flavored fruit.  In every sip, you'll taste our natural commitment.  Mendocino, through and through."   Both are members of the Brown-Forman Wine Company--the 7th largest wine company in the US, according to WINE BUSINESS MONTHLY.  Please see www.Fetzer.com for recipes to pair with all wines.
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FESS PARKER remains phenomenally admired and loved by his numerous fans of previous television fame and currently for his the fame of his FESS PARKER  winery wines.  I had a lovely telephone conversation with Fess recently for an article I wrote on him for THE PEAK.  He is as charming as ever and vibrantly interested in his various works in progress--not the least of which was getting to ready to perform at Disneyland for its 50th anniversary celebration.  Still, our focus is wine and the family wines are easy to praise.  Son Eli Parker capably oversees the winemaking and vineyard operations for FESS PARKER WINERY and his special label, EPIPHANY.  Several family members participate in various winery jobs much to the delight of patriarch Fess.  Try the wines listed below for your pleasure and assessment.  I was especially delighted with the quality of the buyer-friendly bottles of PARKER STATION and FRONTIER RED.
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DRY CREEK VINEYARD (DCV) has a 30-year reputation for excellent Zinfandel.  The 2002 has a new label and retains the "Old Vine" designation it coined in the 1980s.  DCV defines Old Vine Zin as wine that is produced from vines averaging at least 50 years old.  With average yields of less than 1.5 tons per acre, winemaker William Knuttel handles each lot with the utmost care.   Five vineyards contribute Zinfandel with DCV's oldest vines dating back to 1896.  Beeson Ranch is perhaps the best known, planted in the 1800s by Italian immigrants.                  
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RED BICYCLETTE has released its second vintage of  approachable and inviting French wines from the Languedoc-Rousillon region.  It has just introduced a dry-style French Rose.  Produced and bottled in "sun-drenched southern France, the wines embody the joie de vivre synonymous with the delightful lifestyle of the French countryside--lavender hillsides, fields of flowers, ripe fruit and as easy to enjoy as riding a bicycle."  The first two-wheeled rider-propelled machine was invented by German Baron Karl Von Drais De Saurbrun in 1817.  The draisienne was  wooden with two wheels connected by a beam and considered a form of entertainment rather than a mode of transportation.   The improved concept of the 1820s was called a hobby horse, expensive and owned by nobility.  In the 1860s Frenchman Michaux attached cranks and pedals to the front wheel--now called vélocipède--built with iron tires and wheels and nicknamed 'boneshaker.'  Popular, hundreds appeared throughout Europe.  Pierre Lallemet patented the first American vélocipède in 1866 and two years later the word bicycle was first used in Europe.  A British engineer produced the 'Penny-Farthing' around 1873--with a front wheel three times the size of the back wheel and rubber tires--but unstable.  Improvements continued and in 1880--two wheels of nearly equal size,  pedals drove the rear wheel through gears and chains.  The bicycle craze took off in 1899--one million produced in America.  In 1903 the first Tour de France was held.  In 1975, 50 million bicycles were produced worldwide and in 2000, 100 million." 
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SCHRAMSBERG sparkling wines remain favorites. 
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BLACK SWAN Vineyards are named for Australia's black swam, a creature that symbolizes the beauty of the vineyards and elegance of the wines.
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VALLEY OF THE MOON 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $20: "Similar to traditional Bordeaux red: aromatic, lean, delicate and structured with black berry, black currant and mint"
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RODNEY STRONG 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley $19: "Supple in texture with rose petal and red fruit aromas, a lively medium body, subtle oak and toasty vanilla character, a well-knit wine that's smooth and delicious"
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CAMPANILE 2004 Pinot Grigio, Tre Venezie, Italy $10: "Floral notes with nuances of pear and honeydew melon, harmony of fruit and acid give a full structure and crisp, lively mouth feel, a light bodied wine with hints of citrus and almonds, pair with seafood pasta, chicken"
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GRGICH HILLS 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley comes from a roller coaster start of 2001 growing season  that led to near perfect temperatures and cool nights to ensure fully ripe Cabernet grapes with mature phenolics and balanced acids and tannins
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ELYSE Winery owner and winemaker Ray Coursen  works with his wife Nancy in their Napa Valley vineyards and together they run the winery.   "In 1983, Nancy and I were working in Cape Cod restaurants and I asked her  when she’d be ready to move to California," Ray says.  "I had a dream of  learning to make wine.  'Tomorrow,'” she said.  "Eventually, we moved to Napa Valley and eventually, in 1987, we started Elyse Wines with 286 cases of Zinfandel.   For a decade we were nomads, buying grapes and crushing at various custom crush facilities, and then in1997, we finally bought a small winery on Hoffman Lane."
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ANDRETTI Winery, established in 1996 takes its inspiration from founder and auto racing champion  Mario Andretti.  When he retired in 1994, a commemorative wine was produced to honor him.  That event sparked his interest in owning a winery.  Consequently, he teamed up with his former associate, Joe Antonini, who was chairman and CEO of K-Mart--a major sponsor of racer Andretti.  They formed the Andretti Wine Group (AWG Limited), a public stock company, to acquire the property and build Andretti Winery, with Antonini serving as Chairman and Andretti as Vine Chairman.  They own 49.7% of the company.  There are two product lines: Selections - California ($9 to $13)  and Andretti Napa Valley ($14-$28),  both available nationally.    Winemaker Bob Pepi has been with the Andretti Winery since the formation of the company. 
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CANYON ROAD 2004 Chardonnay, California $10: "This lightly oaked wine displays ripe melon and tropical fruit flavors.  Hints of vanilla and caramel round out a distinctive aroma, balanced acidity, bright green apple and stone fruits complement a luscious texture, enjoy with chicken, fish and pasta."
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  LOST CREEK WINERY has a trio of enthusiastic wine principals: , Jack States, Randy Keyworth and Bob Riskin.  Bob says, "Lost Canyon Winery’s focus is on producing small lots (2000 cases) of cool climate, vineyard designated Pinot Noir and Syrah from  the Russian River, Sonoma Coast, and Los Carneros appellations.  While 2001 was our first commercial release, Jack,  Randy and I  have been crafting our art since 1978.   Small production is the core of our philosophy to make world-class wines.  It enables us to use all our senses in the individual decisions about our wines according to their unique timetable, not the reverse.  Ultimately, we guide and influence the wine to meet its innate potential.   Each wines reflects the unique “terrior” of its vineyard.  We're partners with Sonoma County's best growers in creating these exceptional wines.  All three of us have been seduced by Pinot Noir and Syrah--by the complexity, subtlety, and delicacy of exceptional Pinot Noir: Our Syrah has its own magical attributes, the body and complexity we desire, and insight into the syrah flavors that this highly adaptable grape can provide."
               

© 2005 Sarah Jane English

Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com

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