The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  68th Edition
December 9, 2004



SPLURGE WINE OF THE MONTH: LOLONIS 2000 "Petros" Heritage Vineyards, Redwood Valley $65

TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store; select vintage available) $Best Buy

SEASONAL SPARKLERS: Here are the sparkling wines my tasters will enjoy at my table in December.


 

FAVORITE NEW-TO-ME WINERY is C.G. di Arie: Located in the Sierra Foothills, C.G. di Arie labels itself "Crown of the Shenandoah Valley" and after tasting the wines I believe it.  They are lovely.  Chaim and Elisheva Gur-Arieh founded the vineyard and winery as a culmination of a 20-year dream and life's work.  They combined Chaim's 40 years as a scientist with Elisheva' s reputation as a nationally exhibited artist to build a place of refuge for lovers of wine and art.  Passionate wine and art collectors, they crossed the bridge from just drinking wine to making it in the 1980s.  They focus on crafting world-class zinfandel and syrah from the mountain fruit of this promising appellation. Seek out these luscious, highly extracted, fruit intense, limited productions--in some instances as few as only 500 cases.  They cost $25 and $30 and are worth every penny.   www.CGDIARIE.com

WINERY OF THE MONTH: KING ESTATE--In 1990, Ed King discovered a parcel of land with rich soil for growing hay to feed local horse and cattle farms. Could this be the one, he thought?  Andre Tchelistcheff thought so. By 1994, over 100-acres were planted to create the most clonally diverse, soil-and-climate-matched vineyard ever grown in Oregon.  Now KING ESTATE is introducing a new Domaine label.
Why call it Domaine? Simple, it means ours, KING tells me. "Here's the math: 230-acres of grapes + 15-acres of orchards + 5-acres of nursery + 2-acres of vegetable gardens + 1-acre of compost support = Domaine," He explains. "Add a state-of-the-art 110,000 square foot winery, and it makes sense to grow, produce and bottle on the Estate."
  KING ESTATE produces hand-grown grapes with optimum ripeness and concentration and uses canopy and crop thinning by hand.  CEO Ed King says it's a naturally. "These practices help make the perfect balance between vine and fruit development.  And stressed vines? Of course, it's Oregon and we see some nasty winter conditions.  But the June-October window is usually all good. The northern latitude (44°s) combined with Lorane Valley's west-east canyon-like formation provides long summer days, with optimal ripening conditions. The cool evening temperatures influence the acidic structure of the grapes, providing backbone and structure for food affinity," he explains.  "The Organic farming. It simply makes good sense.   Certification was important - it proves our vineyards are grown according to strict standards that are verified by independent organizations."
Rigorous, labor-intensive viticulture practices make it all happen. Meliton Martinez is King's hero. "He runs the farm with help from everyone -- we keep very busy!"
Gray, copper-colored grapes that faintly shimmer in the morning dew make expressive Pinot Gris, King tells me, and the first glass will invite another. "Small berries with silky richness, cherry nut aromatics and vivid ruby color produce our mouth watering Pinot Noir.
In the future, will we farm differently? Doubtful. Healthy soils are the key to farming. Dry farmed, non-irrigated - that's us. The glass is half-full in our eyes, although we use the bottom half of the glass (Oregon winter rainfall) to keep the vines thirst quenched. 15 vineyard fans keep the critical vine bud break protected from frost danger, and we distribute thousands of pounds of organic nutrients to the vineyards each spring.  Ask any winemaker if they can make great wine from organic grapes . . . If they immediately answer 'yes,' be suspicious. The key is organic grapes that are balanced in sugar, acid, tannin, seed development, and brilliant color. When our Domaine grapes show up on the King Estate crush pad - winemakers Bill & Ray have a look on their faces that exudes confidence."

NEWS

JIM CONCANNON Visits Austin: Third generation Irish winemaker Jim Concannon visited Austin to autograph bottles of his popular premium wines at several super markets and wine shops.  We dined at the Four Seasons and tasted his wines with our various courses.  What a delicious evening it was indeed!  Jim's great-grandfather,  James Concannon, was born on St. Patrick's Day in 1847.   Although he had the luck of the Irish, a strong character and perseverance brought him success in life.  At 17, he left Ireland for Boston.  Like thousands before and after him,  signs greeted him saying "Irish Need Not Apply."  Undeterred, he found a job as a bellboy in Maine.  Here he met and married Ellen Rowe, formerly of County Kilkenny.  In 1874, James, his wife and the first of their ten children, traveled via covered wagon to Oregon.  He briefly managed a sheep ranch in Oregon before moving to San Francisco where he sold books.   Later, James made his fortune selling rubber stamps in a territory that stretched from British Columbia to Mexico.  James' work ethic, intelligence and flair for language made him a highly respected businessman by 32 years.   Having made his fortune as a relatively young man, he pursued a new ventures in California, where he discovered the Livermore Valley.   He enrolled in the University of California to learn everything about viticulture.  He traveled to France and Spain for the perfect root stock to start a new wine business. In 1883, he planted his first 40 acres with premium Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapevine cuttings from France's legendary Chateau Y'Quem.   He later imported the first cuttings from the hybrid Petite Sirah vine developed in 1880 by French viticulturist Francois Durif.  James Concannon became the first Irish immigrant to make wine in America.  His first wines were stored in his cellar in 1884.  In his lifetime, James traveled to France to learn about winemaking, to Mexico to introduce viticulture, and to his beloved Ireland five times.     During Prohibition (1925-1933) Concannon continued producing a full line of sacramental wines under special dispensation from Archbishop Alemany.   When Prohibition ended in 1933, Concannon Vineyard was ready to fill the void. Grandson Jim Concannon (his grandfather's namesake) remembers when trucks were backed up the length of Concannon's driveway with the first post-Prohibition production.     Following James Concannon's death in 1911, the family continued the wine business with James' son Joseph as manager.  He replaced original vines that were lost to phylloxera, increased the acreage, and planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel.  Joseph eventually purchased the interests of his siblings and he and his wife Nina became sole owners.   After surviving Prohibition and the Great Depression, Joe Sr. passed away in 1965 and the next generation of Concannons continued to run the winery. Grandson Joe oversaw the vineyards and grandson Jim headed up the winemaking.  In 1964, the Concannon brothers released the industry's first varietal Petite Sirah from the 1961 vintage. Concannon's Petite Sirah won numerous prestigious awards in the following decades and is now the brand's best-known wine.   Joe Concannon, Jr. passed away in 1978, leaving his brother Jim to carry on.   Today, Concannon Vineyard is run from offices in James Concannon's original home, just steps from the cellar doors. Grandson Jim Concannon has stayed on at the winery, continuing the family's legacy.   He works from his office in the historical landmark built by his grandfather, surrounded by a century of wine and family memorabilia.

IONA HANDCRAFTED BOOKS is a truly unique and remarkable reminder of the fine things in life.  The owner of this creative enterprise is my friend and student, Mychal Mitchell, and her partner.   Together they craft heirloom books and albums for those interested in the finest of belongings.   "We're committed to crafting books in the time-honored tradition of the Italians--by hand," Mychal tells me.  "All our leathers are selected and cut by hand, and all our archival papers are hand-torn to size.   Also, the hemp twine used to stitch the books is hand waxed with a natural beeswax.   The books and albums are crafted to last a lifetime, so no frills are added--just straightforward top quality leather, papers and twine.  We constantly refine our old world techniques to create an heirloom treasure that preserves the past, present and future forever."  1-877-466-2257 www.IONAHANDCRAFTEDBOOKS.com


 COVEY RUN Harvest News: "We’re getting close to the end of harvest.  Only Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling remain unpicked in our vineyards.  The warm days are now gone and we’re experiencing typical late October weather in Eastern Washington—gusty winds, showers, partly cloudy and cool.
Cabernet Sauvignon fares well in this weather so we are letting the grapes hang.  This extended hang time will allow the flavors to mature.  This encourages the dark berry fruit flavors over less ripe, herbaceous characters.  We’re taking our time and waiting to pick when the flavors are just right.
We still have about half of our Cab grapes to pick at vineyards throughout the Columbia Valley—from the Alderdale region to the south to Mattawa to the north.  There are still two weeks left to pick before the clock runs out at the end of the month.  Then the season will end either by flood or by ice.
As for Riesling, we've picked all of the Yakima Valley vineyards except for the Late Harvest and Ice Wine grapes. We’re moving north near Othello and Quincy--cooler areas so the grapes ripen later.  The Riesling is really wonderful this year, showing good, crisp acidity and lots of that luscious honeysuckle aroma.  Riesling is almost always great here!
As always, we’re hoping for a freeze so we can make Ice Wine Riesling and Semillon.  Join us in keeping our fingers crossed!
Founded in 1982, Covey Run is a leading producer of premium quality wines from Washington state.  Kerry Norton took the helm at Covey Run in 1999, bringing an extensive winemaking background. Visit Covey Run on the web at www.coveyrun.com.

SPICEWOOD VINEYARDS' Madeleine and Ed Manigold released their Merlot Nouveau 2004 in October, beating France’s Beaujolais Nouveau release  by three weeks.  The release signaled the end of harvest season and the beginning of the holidays. This young wine is meant to be enjoyed throughout the holiday season while the aged wines are aging.   This fruity, low-tannin wine is perfect for traditional holiday foods, the bistro fare common in the Beaujolais region, and of course, Texas-style fare.   For information:  830.693.5328

MESSINA HOF Winery introduced its first proprietary bottle.  The new  bottle is embossed with four stars and the Messina Hof logo under each star.   “The design represents the evolution of Messina Hof’s role in the global wine industry,” says Paul Bonarrigo, winemaker and Messina Hof CEO.  “Many well-known wine regions are identified by a unique bottle mold.  The Star Messina Hof  bottle creates a unique identity for our wines as a proud product of the Lone Star State.”   Established in 1977, from its initial production of 1,500 gallons of wine in 1983, Messina Hof has continued to serve the community and ranks as the fastest growing and most award-winning winery in the state.  Messina Hof is second only to Texas A&M University as a tourist attraction in the Brazos County.

ALASKA TRAVELS:   New Visitor Center above the Arctic Circle Now Open:  How do you design a visitor’s center that can survive the lowest temperature on record in the United States -- minus 80 degrees Fahrenheit? The federal government’s answer was to "go cold" in Coldfoot. The new 6,500-square-foot visitor’s center, located 260 miles north of Fairbanks on the Dalton Highway (also know as the "Haul Road") welcomes visitors during summer months but closes during winter. The center provides information about federal public lands and natural resources in the north, including Bureau of Land Management-administered land near the highway, Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve and three national wildlife refuges, Arctic, Yukon Flats and Kanuti. For more information visit http://aurora.ak.blm.gov/dalton/planning/centers.html. Media Information: Lenore Heppler, Bureau of Land Management, (907) 474-2320 or Lenore_Heppler@blm.gov.           Visitors to Alaska’s National Forests on the Rise: Special use permits in two of the largest national forests in the country – the Tongass and Chugach – have increased 240 percent over the last ten years, according to the USDA Forest Service. The growth is an indication of the overall increase in the number of visitors to Alaska, up 7 percent in 2004, and reflects the continued rise in the use of forest service cabins and campgrounds. The Tongass is nearly 17 million acres and stretches the full length of Alaska’s famed Inside Passage; the Chugach is 5.3 million acres and includes the heli-skiing paradise of the Chugach Range. Between the two, there are 999 miles of trail and 196 public-use cabins, which can be booked for nominal overnight fees of around $35 per night at www.reserveusa.com; amenities vary, but the web site offers full details on each cabin. Media Information: Ray Massey, USDA Forest Service- Alaska Region, (907) 586-7876 or rmassey@fs.fed.us.

ZINFANDEL - An Icon of American Heritage to Complement the Thanksgiving Feast:  When it comes to selecting a wine to pair with the Thanksgiving meal, what better choice than Zinfandel, which celebrates the American heritage while also complementing the cuisine. 
"The taste and flavor of Zinfandel, known as the 'All-American grape,' perfectly harmonizes with the foods traditionally served at Thanksgiving
dinners across the country," says Eric Cinnamon, winemaker for Rancho Zabaco® (www.ranchozabaco.com), a leading producer of Sonoma County
Zinfandels.  "The versatile nature of Zinfandel supports both the basic turkey and the complex side dishes of cranberry sauce and stuffing.  It
provides jammy, ripe fruit with layers of texture and spice with a low amount of tannin."
Early clones of the Zinfandel grape were first imported to the United States in the 1820s from an Austrian. In 2002, Dr. Carol Meredith, Ph.D., professor at the University of California at Davis, identified Zinfandel's origins as that of a Croatian grape, Crljenak Kastelanski.  Enologists have also noted that Zinfandel and the Southern Italian Primitivo grape share identical DNA characteristics.  Zinfandel, like Thanksgiving, recognizes America's
origins, diverse backgrounds, and mixture of cultures. 
Although Zinfandel was first born in Europe, it is now almost exclusively grown and produced, by the Zinfandel name, in the United States.  While
there are approximately 500,000 acres in California planted to Zinfandel, the terroir in Sonoma County is especially suitable for this grape.  In
fact, its roots to Sonoma County can be traced to 1859.    
Rancho Zabaco produces five styles of big, bold Zinfandel from grapes in different growing regions.  >From the intensity of small-lot, single vineyard
wines like Chiotti (SRP $28) and Stefani ($28) in Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley, to the robust Reserve Dry Creek Valley ($18) and Sonoma Heritage Vines ($15) and the approachable Dancing Bull Zinfandel ($10), Cinnamon aims to offer choice in flavor and price for every Thanksgiving table.  Rancho Zabaco is named for one of the original Mexican land grants in Northern Sonoma County.
For more information, visit www.ranchozabaco.com <http://www.ranchozabaco.com

SPRING MOUNTAIN Harvest of 2004: Winemaker/Owner Tom Ferrell says, "We harvested the final vineyard block ending our 2004 crush on Friday, October 15.  That concluded my 36th harvest and the smell of fermenting wine through the winery, in my office and in my clothes brought on the same feeling of excitement and anticipation as it did in working my first vintage for Joe Heitz in 1969.   Harvest is an optimistic time for a winemaker.  It's funny, but if you give a winemaker a choice between a ton of ripe grapes or two and a half barrels of excellent wine, the winemaker will almost always take their chances with the grapes.  Harvest is also a time of reflection, as we look back on past vintages for similarities and lessons learned.   This is when winemakers have their best opportunity to draw on their experience and apply it to their craft.  Every vintage is unique and a learning experience, but most have elements we have seen before.  This vintage was no exception.   The Growing Season  In case you haven't heard, 2004 was an early year. At Chandon, they say that 2004 is the second earliest harvest since they began making sparkling wine in the Napa Valley in 1973.  My own memory of vintages goes back to 1968 and this is the one of the earliest I have seen as well.  We can never say exactly why a vintage is early or late, but we usually have clues.     As you probably know, a grape vine has an internal clock.  Once set, this clock begins to tick off the days of the growing season.  Cool weather might cause the clock to run a little slower or warm weather a little faster, but, by and large, when a vine's clock starts ticking at bloom, the days until harvest are almost predestined.      After heavy rains two months earlier than usual in December 2003, January, February and March of 2004 were unusually warm and dry. We think this weather pattern helped set the vine's clock a month earlier than the year before.   This is harvest number 24 for Ron Rosenbrand, our vineyard manager.  Like any good viticulturist, Ron watches vine development and monitors dates closely.  To compare 2004 to another year, Ron's records indicate the following for our vineyard:  EARLY VARIETALS  (Pinot Noir & Sauvignon Blanc):  began bloom May 27, 2003; and in 2004, began bloom  April 24.  Finished bloom June 7, 2003 and in 2004, finished May 6.       LATE  VARIETALS  ( Cabernet Sauvignon & Petit Verdot): began bloom June 4, 2003; and in 2004, began bloom  May 7.  Finished bloom June 12, 2003 and in 2004, finished May 20.               So Ron saw the grapes get off to an early start in 2004 and then nervously watched the weather.  He noted that in several vineyard blocks many Cabernet vines had only one cluster per shoot...his first worry about the crop.   May, June, and July were unusually cool, but clear and dry.  Vine and grape development progressed in this cool period without a hitch.  It was also a pleasant summer for people , rarely did we feel the need to turn on an air conditioner.  Veraison came predictably early and August opened cool and clear.         Our first day of harvest was our tiny block of Pinot Noir on August 17.  About that time the weather turned warm and continued warm through mid September. Sunny days spurred ripeness, bringing most vineyard blocks to the brink of harvest.  Almost on cue, the weather turned cool and crisp.  This slowed development and enabled us to take our time and pick the vineyard a block at a time at a leisurely pace.          We were able to harvest the entire 225 acres with just one 13 man picking crew. On the last day, as the crew picked the final block, a meter by meter Cabernet planting in front of the winery, I could hear them whooping and hollering all the way up in my office as they raced to finish."  Those grape gatherers had nothing on me, as that's exactly how I felt after tasting these indescribably delicious wines.  For the full harvest report or information, contact: Tom Ferrell, Spring Mountain Vineyard, 2805 Spring Mountain Road, St.Helena, CA 94574, 1-877-769-4637, www.springmountainvineyard.com

CLIFF LEDE VINEYARDS' POETRY INN Opens in Napa Valley in March 2005:  This luxury Inn (in the winery's Stags Leap District Vineyards) will feature spectacular views, spacious suites and Napa Valley style.        Cliff Lede Vineyards will realize its "poetry of life" philosophy with Poetry Inn, scheduled to open in March 2005. The inn offers guests a place to rest among the vines, staggering views of the Stags Leap District, close proximity to esteemed restaurants (including the French Laundry), luxuriously appointed rooms, and a wine cellar that would make the likes of Niles and Frasier Crane giddy.     In 2003, Cliff and Cheryl Lede purchased an existing bed and breakfast located in the hills just east of the Silverado Trail. Renowned architect Howard Backen of Backen Gillam designed the property's cozy Craftsman-style renovation. The distinctive guest suites capture breathtaking views of the Napa Valley, the Stags Leap District and Cliff Lede Vineyards. The Poetry Inn will be the only public accommodations in the Stags Leap District.        Ranging in size from 850 to 1,450 square feet, each room features private indoor/outdoor showers, luxuriant soaking tubs, fireplaces for Napa's chillier nights, business traveler necessities including phone, fax and wireless high-speed internet, and top flight amenities. Private outdoor terraces offer the perfect respite at the end of a long day of tasting, enabling guests to sip a glass of wine as the sun sets over the Mayacamas range.    The interiors are a comfortable blend of classic and contemporary furnishings with a textural palette of soft green, gold, blue and rust tones inspired by the surrounding landscape and views. The overall effect is one of rural calm and seductive seclusion. Spread over forty acres of pristine hillsides and world-class vineyards, the Poetry Inn is a world apart. Guests, those fortunate few, will have access to private hiking trails that reward even the semi-rugged with remarkable views.        A mouthwatering three-course gourmet breakfast is served daily by Innkeepers Sandra Reeves and Brian Parkinson and is the perfect start to a day of wine tasting throughout the valley.        Guests may also choose to whet their palates with a bottle of fine and rare wine from the inn's private cellar. The collection is extensive and will focus primarily on Bordeaux and the winery's S. Anderson, Cliff Lede and Poetry wines.       A stay at the Poetry Inn captures the essence of what Cliff and his team are striving to achieve. To them, "the poetry of life" includes fine wine, food, art and the majestic natural beauty of the Napa Valley. The property is a sanctuary where these experiences may be shared with friends, colleagues and loved ones.
Poetry Inn is located at 6380 Silverado Trail near the Yountville Cross Road. Reservations are currently being accepted for the Poetry Inn at 707-944-0646 or poetryinn.com.      About Cliff Lede Vineyards Wine Company: Poetry Inn directly overlooks Cliff Lede Vineyards, which was established in 2002 when Cliff and Cheryl Lede purchased S. Anderson Vineyard, a family-owned producer of still and sparkling wines established in 1971. The winery has 55 acres of estate vineyards, and the winery's focus is predominantly on Bordeaux varieties well-suited to the Stags Leap District, though very limited quantities of sparkling wines and Sauvignon Blanc are also produced.         The winery's new tasting room, renovated by Backen Gillam and opened in June 2004, pays homage to its original 1913 Craftsman-style design. It features an expansive granite counter, two large fireplaces, high-beamed ceilings and floors crafted from refurbished oak. There is also an elegant private Club Room that is reserved exclusively for wine club members. Large French doors lead onto a patio that offers breathtaking views of the Stags Leap Palisades behind beautifully landscaped gardens dotted with contemporary sculptures by well-known artists such as Lynn Chadwick, Jim Dine and Keith Haring. The winery is located at 1473 Yountville Cross Road near the Silverado Trail and is open to the public daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m., with candlelit tours of the European-style, cathedral-ceiling caves at 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. Please call 707-944-8642 or visit cliffledevineyards.com.  FOR MORE INFORMATION: Charlotte Milan, Milan-Jarvis Communications,  415-409-1412  charlotte@milan-jarvis.com

CHAMPAGNE TAITTINGER and DOMAINE CARNEROS have funded a scholarship, Le Reve Foundation Scholarship, to assist young women  pursuing a career in winemaking, wine studies or related culinary arts. The two educational institutions selected for these scholarships were The Culinary Institute of America, Greystone Campus, St. Helena and U.C. Davis, Dept. of Viticulture and Enology.    For questions and to apply, please use the following contacts: The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) Email: ciaprochef@culinary.edu  and/or: Mr. James A. Wolpert, Dept. of Viticulture & Enology, University of California, Davis, CA 95616

SHAFER Napa Valley Wines has released two new books.   John Shafer has written From the Ground Up, a story of the Shafer family wine project from its advent to present.  John exhibits a friendly and readable style that makes the family affair rewarding for the reader.   In another tome,  Shafer Vineyards Line on Wine, a compilation of fun and interesting facts published on postcards over the years have been collected together for this amusing little book.  Both available online at www.ShaferVineyards.com  for $10.95 and $12.95 respectively.

CALIFORNIA SUSTAINABLE WINEGROWING ALLIANCE (CSWA), established in 2003 by WINE INSTITUTE and the California Association of  Winegrape Growers (CAWG) to promote environmental stewardship and social responsibility in California's wine community, presented its first report measuring the level of sustainable practices among vintners and growers on a statewide basis.  USDA has awarded a $475,000 grant to the program--lauding its quality.  For more information: www.wineinstitute.org telephone 415/356-7525 and www.cawg.org or telephone 916/924-5370 or www.usda.gov/Newsroom/0385.04.html


 

NEW RELEASES
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GALLO of SONOMA has several new releases from various areas.

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CAIN Vineyard and Winery 2001 CAIN CONCEPT, $46,  is a lovely blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc.  Winemaker Chris Howell says "It is a classical blend dedicated to the tradition of great Cabernets from the Napa Valley--rich, ripe and silky smooth with a long finish."  www.cainfive.com 

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ZD Wines 2002 Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley $48 is one of my all-time favorite Chardonnays -- rich, layered with flavors, full bodied, complex and lingering.  While I ordinarily drink wines with foods, this wine deserves your undivided attention with one glass unto itself.   ZD Winemaker Chris Pisani tells me that 2002 was another superb year for Chardonnay.  "A long, moderate growing season allowed for long hang times and a perfect balance of flavors and natural acidity,"  he says.  "The grapes came from several of  Napa's coolest  vineyards,  including ZD's own organically certified deLeuze Family Vineyard in Carneros.  Barrel fermented  at 48 degrees for nine weeks helped preserve the lush tropical and citrus aromas and no malo-lactic fermentation insured crisp acidity.   Extended aging in toasted American oak provides richness and complexity that rounds out on the palate."  Only 1,200 cases were produced of this lovely wine so hurry to find it.  You'll be glad you did.   

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MAYACAMAS Vineyards owner Bob Travers reports that the 2004 harvest delivered good-looking fruit.  "This growing season (2004), abundant winter rain was followed by a very early start to spring.   That warmth gave way to a cool June and then the usual seesaw of temperatures which generally kept vine activity at a brisk pace.  An early August heat spike brought some of our Chardonnay to full ripeness in a hurry so we started picking on Friday the 13th, August, our earliest ever start to harvest.  Although considered an inauspicious date, we felt lucky that we were ready in time.  The fruit looks good."  Bob says the 1999 MAYACAMAS Cabernet Sauvignon is now available.   However, not the 2000 Pinot Noir.  "Phylloxera decimated our Pinot Noir in the late 1990s," he says.  "We planted right away, but until that wine is aged in oak and further matured in the bottle, there will be no release of MAYACAMAS Pinot Noir.  Apart from that sad story, the MAYACAMAS 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($65) is a subject we do enjoy.  A highly regarded vintage early on, many 1999 wines are fulfilling their generous promise.   That vintage out last Cab grapes weren't harvested until very late indeed--November 2, 1999.   Cabernet is the hardiest of the great wine grapes and it withstood the repeated cold, wet weather a lot better than we grape pickers did.  The resulting wine is rich and concentrated with deep aromas and flavors of our dark mountain fruit.  It's also layered with typical earthy, brambly notes of our terroir.  The wine has balance and structure to last and improve for a decade, if you like.  For the next five years we recommend aerating this wine for at least one hour before serving to develop its full flavor and texture.  We blended about 2% each Merlot and Cabernet Franc."  Bob Travers releases different library selections each year and this year's selection is the 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon.  "Our library selection, MAYACAMAS 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($120), is coming together beautifully and shows many characteristics of a classic Bordeaux: velvety with oak hints, depth, complexity and power plus a slight raspberry finish.  Highly enjoyable now, it will be good for five or six years--probably more. 

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ROBERT MONDAVI Private Selection Wines have been introduced.  Tim Mondavi, Vice Chairman and Winegrower says, "At Robert Mondavi we have long recognized the distinctive vineyards of California's coast. For decades we have sourced fruit from coastal regions, and in 1994 we introduced Robert Mondavi Private Selection wines to exhibit the high quality and character of our coastal grapes."  He  explains: "Because of the unique range of growing conditions of the Central and North Coast appellations, we are able to match each variety with the climate and soil in which it thrives. The result is high quality, affordable fine wine.  Recently we changed our name to Robert Mondavi Private Selection to represent more accurately our commitment to selecting the best vineyards for each of our wines: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Syrah, Zinfandel and Johannisberg Riesling.   These wines are approachable, with bright fruit expression and exceptional balance. They honor the vineyards of California's coast with great depth and texture, while minimizing the influences of oak and tannin. From light and lively to full-bodied and concentrated, all Robert Mondavi Private Selection wines are crafted to be enjoyed upon release.  We invite you to take a closer look at the California Coast, an emerging winegrowing region, and to discover its distinctive flavors in our Robert Mondavi Private Selection wines.

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ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS has released six new wines. 

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ROSENBLUM CELLARS, a producer that has for 25 years built its reputation crafting vineyard designate wines,  has released several red wines. 

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JOSEPH PHELPS has released four new wines.

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TALUS Collection wines have a new packaging and artistically crafted wines from premium grapes sourced from popular California growing regions.  Their lively, bright fruit flavors, good acidity and consistent flavor profile make them approachable and food-friendly wines—ideal for everyday enjoyment.   "These are special wines made in a distinctive style. Red varietals are weighty and concentrated, with intense fruit flavors.  French oak provides a subtle vanilla or roasted coffee oak profile.  White varietals are well balanced with lush fruit flavors balanced by crisp acidity and restrained French oak."  Todd Ziemann, winemaker for Talus Collection, is a fourth generation Lodi native who feels a tremendous affinity for the land and the wines it produces.  His passion for Lodi is intimately connected to his passion for creating quality wines using the region's best grapes.   At every step in the winemaking process, Ziemann takes a level of care typically found with only more expensive wines.  Against its competition, this commitment to quality and attention to detail sets Talus Collection apart.   Grapes for Talus Collection wines are carefully selected, monitored closely for sun exposure and water deficits, and treated with care when aging so that the oak never overpowers the fruit. 

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MASON CELLARS has vineyards located in Oakville and Yountville, CA.   I first met the owners in Carmel, at the Highlands Inn during the incomparable Wine and Food Masters event.  Their wines were delicious and I immediately recognized their dedication to creating the  best they wines they could from their vineyards.   They have succeeded.  I'm pleased to share some information about them with you.   Mason Cellars is a family owned and operated winery, founded in l993 by winemaker Randy Mason and his wife, Megan in Oakville, California.  Following 20 years of winemaking and vineyard management for other distinguished Napa Valley wineries, they decided to launch their own wine label - MASON CELLARS. 

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SPRING MOUNTAIN Vineyard has combined four historic Napa properties to create 850-acre estate of forest and vineyard on the eastern slopes of Spring Mountain overlooking the town of St. Helena.  Vines are planted on 225 acres and create 110 separate vineyard blocks--each with unique soil, exposure, and microclimate.   Density is 4000 vines per acre and trained to the ancient gobelet form--a vertical trellising method invented by the Romans. 

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ZACA MESA Winery has made delicious Syrah almost from its inception.  Zaca Mesa grows Rhône-style wines in the estate vineyard.  Its history in Santa Barbara began in 1972 with the purchase and planting of the estate vineyard.  In 1978, before most wineries principals thought of growing Syrah, Zaca Mesa dedicated a section of  vineyard to this unique grape traditionally grown in the Rhône valley of France. The vineyard is still home to Santa Barbara’s oldest Syrah vineyard, the Black Bear Block.   In 1995, Zaca Mesa 1993 Estate Bottled Syrah was wine number six on Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” list.  That same year, the Syrah was served at the White House for a State Dinner for the French President.  Rave reviews include Wine Advocate: "the Zaca Mesa 1994 Syrah is one of the richest, most hedonistic wines per penny spent that I have ever tasted and reviewed.”  More recently, Food & Wine reported Zaca Mesa in 2004 makes: “Some of the best estate-bottled Syrahs in the region.”   Six different Rhône varietals grow in the estate vineyard: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, Viognier and Roussanne.  All  wines are crafted exclusively from fruit hand picked in the estate vineyard, giving complete quality control of wines from vineyard to bottle.  www.zacamesa.com

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KOBRAND has released a number of wines.  KOBRAND history began in 1933 upon the repeal of prohibition when Rudolph C. Kopf founded the wine and spirits department at Macy's department store in New York.  It quickly gained a reputation as the finest wine and spirits shop nationwide.   Mr. Kopf was recognized as being among the most knowledgeable people in the country regarding wines and spirits.  Over time he developed relationships with many of the finest wine and spirit suppliers in the world.   In 1944 he decided to use his knowledge and his relationships in establishing his own company, the Kobrand Corporation.  The founding cornerstones were simple and of paramount importance to Mr. Kopf--quality of product, quality of people, and quality of relationships.  Regarding quality of product, Mr. Kopf represented only the highest quality products in their respective categories. Regarding quality of people, Mr. Kopf built the finest wine and spirit sales and sales support team in the industry.  Regarding relationships -- Mr. Kopf was a trendsetter in developing true partnerships with both his distributor and supplier networks."    www.kobrandwine.com

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DALLAS CONTE 2001 Merlot, Rapel Valley, Chile $10: "The ruby with purple hints wine has black cherry, rosemary and spices permeating the wine with vanilla hints and a fruit-filled palate, soft tannins and a long finish. Pair with pork medallions sautéed with green onions."

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  Canandaigua Wine has launched a new premium brand called TURNER ROAD VINEYARDS--three rich, smooth wines from emerging California appellations including its flagship Lodi Shiraz, a Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon and a Central Coast Chardonnay.  www.turnerroadvineyards.com  The suggested retail is $11 each.  Winemaker Matt Parish maps out the most desirable site for each varietal.  His strict selection process is based upon the region's ability to yield fully ripened fruit with perfectly balanced flavors.      

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CHALONE Group has released several wines.

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PEAK WINES INTERNATIONAL offers three new wines from WILD HORSE in Templeton, California. 

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SIMI Winemaker Steve Reeder (formerly at Chateau St. Jean) completed his first year at SIMI in August 2004.  He says his "winemaking approach continues to be one of evolution and not revolution."  He says, "When I joined SIMI it was to try to replicate my efforts at St. Jean, to take a well-established Sonoma County winery, make a few adjustments and take the wines to the next level.  We are well underway and I'm excited about the possibilities."

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ALASKA TRAVELS AND CONTESTS:  Contest of Skills  to be a Wilderness Woman Will Find the Real Deal: The Talkeetna Bachelor Society’s 19th Annual Wilderness Woman Contest, Sat., Dec. 4, is set to test the wilderness skills of "real" Alaska woman and those who want to become one. During a series of wacky contests, women will test their skill at escaping a "moose," driving a snowmobile around an obstacle course, chopping firewood and catching (Styrofoam) salmon, just to name a few. The test of skills is topped off with a bachelor auction of Talkeetna’s most eligible men, and proceeds will benefit various local charitable organizations.  Talkeetna is located just over 100 miles north of Anchorage and is an easy two-hour drive. Media Contact: DX Russell, (907) 733-3939 or dxter@alaska.net.                  Inner Tubing Down a Mountain? Alyeska Resort Says "Come on Down!":  For those not inclined to strap on skis or snowboards and hurtle down a mountain, Alyeska Resort in Girdwood has an option for you: inner tubing. Tubing is among the fastest growing activities at winter resorts across the country and provides a great introduction to snow sports while developing a passion for winter recreation. The new Glacier Tubing Park at the resort will be open Fridays through Sundays during regular day and night skiing hours, with additional hours during Christmas vacation and available for group booking. Inner tubes are provided and the lifts come equipped with a hook to hold your tube while you head up the mountain to access three lanes of rolling terrain. Media Information: Gary Scott, Alyeska Resort, (907) 754-2211 or gscott@alyeskaresort.com.             New Visitor Center above the Arctic Circle Now Open:  How do you design a visitor’s center that can survive the lowest temperature on record in the United States -- minus 80 degrees Fahrenheit? The federal government’s answer was to "go cold" in Coldfoot. The new 6,500-square-foot visitor’s center, located 260 miles north of Fairbanks on the Dalton Highway (also know as the "Haul Road") welcomes visitors during summer months but closes during winter. The center provides information about federal public lands and natural resources in the north, including Bureau of Land Management-administered land near the highway, Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve and three national wildlife refuges, Arctic, Yukon Flats and Kanuti. For more information visit http://aurora.ak.blm.gov/dalton/planning/centers.html. Media Information: Lenore Heppler, Bureau of Land Management, (907) 474-2320 or Lenore_Heppler@blm.gov.                         Visitors to Alaska’s National Forests on the Rise: Special use permits in two of the largest national forests in the country – the Tongass and Chugach – have increased 240 percent over the last ten years, according to the USDA Forest Service. The growth is an indication of the overall increase in the number of visitors to Alaska, up 7 percent in 2004, and reflects the continued rise in the use of forest service cabins and campgrounds. The Tongass is nearly 17 million acres and stretches the full length of Alaska’s famed Inside Passage; the Chugach is 5.3 million acres and includes the heli-skiing paradise of the Chugach Range. Between the two, there are 999 miles of trail and 196 public-use cabins, which can be booked for nominal overnight fees of around $35 per night at www.reserveusa.com; amenities vary, but the web site offers full details on each cabin. Media Information: Ray Massey, USDA Forest Service- Alaska Region, (907) 586-7876 or rmassey@fs.fed.us.

GREAT WINE TERROIRS: 240 pages, 8 1/8 X 11 inches, 283 color illustrations, 20 maps, $39.95, (£26.95) University of California Press, Berkeley 94704, www.UCPRESS.EDU , Categories: Wine and Viticulture; Geology; Viticulture; Wine.   " The vine and its wine are a great mystery.  Only the vine reveals to us what is the real taste of the earth," writes Colette.  In this sumptuously illustrated and wonderfully informative book, Jacques Fanet invites readers on a remarkable tour of the world's most celebrated winegrowing regions, revealing the characteristics of the bond that ties the vine to its place of birth: the terroir. Terroir is a French term for the subtle interaction of natural factors and human skills that define the characteristics of each winegrowing region.   Interviewing growers and researchers in France, Spain, Italy, California, Chile, Australia, and South Africa, Fanet looks for the soil in the soul of each wine.  He takes us back millions of years to show how movements in the ancient bedrock, faults, mountain building, tidal flow, sedimentation, and volcanic activity contribute to the precise and individual character of each terroir, making the great winegrowing regions what they are today. Great Wine Terroirs provides wine enthusiasts with everything they will want to know about different soils and climates, the relationship between international grape varieties and the soil in which they grow, and how these factors affect the taste of the wines.   Geological color illustrations and timelines support the text and explain key phenomena. Fanet also provides a glossary, geographical index, and index of soil types and grape varieties. He explains enological practices and their effect on the terroirs and answers questions such as why the Châteauneuf plateau, almost 300 feet about the Rhône Valley, is surrounded by river alluvia and why there are fossilized oysters in the soils of Chablis.     Those interested in the wine of California will find a lively discussion of the Napa Valley, with a detailed explanation of how the San Andreas fault, the Sierra Nevada, and the Great Central Valley have all played a part in creating the most spectacular wine-producing region on the continent.   Author Jacques Fanet is a specialist in soil science, viticulture, and enology. He was Assistant Director of the National Institute of Appellations (INAO ) in France.         CONTENTS: Terroir: Myth or Reality; Vineyards on the Edges of Faults; Sedimentary Basins; Quaternary Terraces; The Ancient Basement; Vineyards in the Foothills of Mountains; Volcanic Terroirs; Glossary; Index: Grape Varieties; Index: Regions

DRY CREEK VALLEY HARVEST REPORT: The Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley (WDCV) completed a fast and furious harvest and are excited about the quality of the new wines. "This was our earliest harvest on record," said Julie Pedroncelli St. John of Pedroncelli, a family-owned winery that has been making wine in Dry Creek Valley since 1927. This sentiment was echoed throughout the small viticultural area in northern Sonoma County, California. "It was a chaotic harvest," said Peter Van Alyea," president of the WDCV and a vineyard owner. "Last year our Cabernet was picked in mid-October and this year it came in the third week of September." The entire season was advanced by three to four weeks, but the grapes had normal maturation time and the colors and delicious flavors are in the wines.

Overall, the 2004 crop size was lower than average, and similar to last year, it was another challenging vintage for Zinfandel, the benchmark variety of the region. Zinfandel was spot specific with some normal vineyard amounts and others down as much as 60 percent. Nonetheless, the quality appears to please the winemakers with the wines showing classic Dry Creek Valley brambly berry fruit flavors and good complexity.

Most of the white varieties grown in Dry Creek Valley — Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc — were picked in August before the September heat. The grapes ripened perfectly and the citrus, herbal and grapefruit flavors are fully developed. At Dry Creek Vineyard, owner Don Wallace said they finished the Sauvignon Blanc harvest a full week earlier than that variety last year. "There was a tendency for the fruit to move rapidly through the flavor spectrum, and we prefer the lemongrass and citrus characteristics reached at lower Brix levels. The Chardonnay is delicious but cluster counts were less than average, and the juice yields per berry were down, giving concentrated fruit flavors of green apples, pineapple and tropical fruit."

At Michel-Schlumberger, Winemaker Fred Payne was pressing his last tank of Cabernet Sauvignon on October 4. He commented that the red Bordeaux varieties were showing "rich expression of fruit flavors and aromas, fullness on the palate and moderate astringency. The wines are big but balanced with soft tannins." Regarding Syrah, his observation was that it was a short crop and the small clusters yielded intense, extracted flavors and aromas.

The skills of the winemakers will be reflected in the 2004 vintage wines.  WWW.WDCV.COM







 

© 2004 Sarah Jane English

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