The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  66th Edition
September 4, 2004

TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) (please select vintage available) $7 (best value)

 

WINERY OF THE MONTH: DOMINUS is the proprietary wine produced since 1983 in the heart of Napa Valley by Christian Moueix and his team. The goal was to have their wines express the unique terroir properties at their historic Napanook Vineyard. It long has been recognized for producing extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon, the essential varietal for DOMINUS.  Today the vineyard is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remaining acreage with the other classic Bordeaux varietals: merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot.   Cabernet Sauvignon, the foundation of DOMINUS, imparts the wine's intense aromas of cassis and cherries with notes of vanilla and licorice. Merlot gives DOMINUS its deep purple color and flattering roundness, often adding exotic scents of mushroom, wild game and blackberries, while Cabernet Franc brings a supple delicacy and finesse and aging ability. Petit Verdot contributes dense, lively tannins and completes the wine's fragrance with spicy, floral aromas. Since its first release, DOMINUS has been known for its complexity and earthy character, reflections of the Napanook Vineyard terroir. Christian believes that wine begins in the vineyard; consequently, each vintage is unique. Additionally, different varietal compositions give each vintage distinction. The 1999 DOMINUS season had a very dry winter followed by a cold spring and mild summer. The berries were quite small, resulting in a concentrated wine that can enjoy long cellaring to reveal its full potential. Due to small berries and low yields--lowest of the decade--bottling was done one month earlier than usual to preserve the exceptional fruit character.     The current release of DOMINUS is described in part as bearing Napa terroir,  and Bordeaux spirit.  Well said.  This proprietary red wine expresses the unique terroir of  historic Napanook Vineyard, which is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon--long recognized as extraordinary in this vineyard.  The vineyard remaining acreage is planted with the other classic Bordeaux varietals.  Christian Moueix tells me that he is proud to release the 2001 DOMINUS ($109) with much excitement.  "A vintage with a dark ruby color, it displays a luxuriant nose of licorice, exotic spices Bing cherries and an essence of roses," he says.  "The wine has the unique feature of being rich and complex while possessing a smooth and silky texture.  The flavors develop into an intense finish of cloves and aromatic cassis."  2001 was characterized by an early bloom and long growing season that yielded grapes of exceptional maturity.  The low rainfall brought stress to the vines, contributing to the intensity and complexity of the fruit.  "This elegant wine is truly a classic and will benefit from years of aging.  We recommend decanting the wine prior to serving to allow it to develop its full potential."   NAPANOOK is also grown on the historic vineyard that dates back to the mid-19th century at the foot of the Mayacamas Mountains in Yountville.  Christian Moueix first released this wine in 1996, intending it to be enjoyed in its younger years.    NAPANOOK is a blend of four varietals chosen from vineyard lots known for their finesse, lively fruit and subtle tannins. The winemaking team's goal is to find the perfect equilibrium between these elements, creating a wine that is harmonious in balance and pleasurable to drink. This wine is made to be enjoyed with
food and will also age well for ten years.     

NEWS

FLORA SPRINGS Celebrates 20th Trilogy: "Trilogy was among the first Meritage (rhymes with heritage) produced in California," recalls President /owner John Komes, whose family is one of the few 1970s "California Wine Renaissance" families to still own and operate its winery.  "The first Trilogy vintage was 1984, and this 2001 vintage is a great example of what has become our signature red wine."     I use this opportunity to explain the word "Meritage" to those who may not know the word or how to pronounce it.  It is an American word that was created by combining parts of merit and heritage.  You may hear the word incorrectly pronounced with a French accent.  This American word was created specifically so the category of American wines using blends of Bordeaux grapes would NOT be confused with French wines--hence the double irony of the mispronunciation.    I hope you will enjoy Meritage wines often.  They are truly lovely and deserve their American heritage (rhymes with Meritage).  (look for FLORA SPRINGS next Newsletter, 67th--WINERY OF THE MONTH)

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BANGKOK hosts 5th Annual World Gourmet Festival, September 13-19, 2004: Award-winning master chefs prepare and celebrate foods and wines for the week.  Open since 1983, Four Seasons Bangkok recent honors include 2004 Conde Nast Traveler Gold List, Top 5 in Asia and #2 in Thailand, and 2003 Travel & Leisure, World's Best Service, Top 1- Hotels worldwide.  For tickers and information: +66 (0) 2 250 1000 or wgf.Bangkok@fourseasons.com and  www.fourseasons.com 

KORBEL CHAMPAGNE CELLARS 2004 HARVEST marks the earliest one in over 20 years.  The winery began crushing Chardonnay from the Clarksburg area today,  July 22.  Korbel expects to process close to 14,000 tons of grapes into 2.5 million gallons of cuvee wines with every indication of an excellent harvest.  Established in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley in 1882, Korbel Champagne Cellars has become America's most popular producer of premium champagne. The Heck family has owned and managed the winery since 1954, and makes 10 champagnes and a limited amount of still wine.

 

BIANCHI OPENS NEW PASO ROBLES WINERY: Bianchi new winery is now operational.  "Director of Winemaking Steve Felten completes the culmination of three and a half years of planning and building," says owner Glenn Bianchi. 

 

V. SATTUI WINERY TAKES TOP PRIZE: California Department of Food and Agriculture Secretary A.G. Kawamura presented Daryl Sattui with the Golden Winery Award, recognizing V. Sattui Winery as THE BEST WINERY IN CALIFORNIA FOR 2004!  This award is presented annually to the winery which has the greatest number of wines winning the highest number of awards.   The top awards included two wines voted "BEST OF CALIFORNIA," four wines selected as "BEST OF CLASS," two DOUBLE GOLDS, and four GOLD MEDALS.  The California State Fair is the largest state wine competition in California.  This year, 596 wineries entered nearly 3,000 wines from around the state.  V. SATTUI wines are sold only at the cellar door or through mail order. 

 

GRAHAM WEERTS Named Stonestreet Winemaker:  Jess Jackson,  proprietor of Stonestreet Winery, appointed Graham Weerts, a South African winemaker with Bordeaux experience, as Stonestreet Winemaker.  Weerts will work with Bordeaux Winemaster Pierre Seillan to oversee all aspects of winemaking at the Jackson family's Alexander Mountain estate winery, which focuses solely on wines sourced from estate mountain and hillside vineyards.
Weerts and Seillan have previously worked together in France and Sonoma County on Bordeaux red wine projects. 

THE VILLA at MESSINA HOF was voted by inn goers as one of the best B&Bs/Country Inns for the Most Romantic Hideaway--making it among the top 3% of bed and breakfasts and country inns throughout the United States and Canada.  Information: 800/736-9463

 

KING ESTATE WINERY has begun construction on a new Visitor's Center.  The 7,000-square-foot facility is targeted to open May 2005.  IN addition, the King Estate certified vineyards have been expanded to include 15 acres of newly planted Pinot Noir and 7 acres of Pinot Gris.  All rootstock for the new vineyards was selected form the Estate organic nursery, Lorane Grapevines.  www.kingestate.cm

 

DIERBERG/STAR Lane Vineyard has hired Nicholas G. de Luca as winemaker and Paul Hobbs as consultant, joining Consulting Winemaker David Ramey in Santa Ynez, California.  www.dierbergvineyard.com 

 

ROSEMOUNT ESTATE MERLOT WINES TOP AWARD: Rosemount 2002 Diamond Label Merlot won the Merlot Trophy at this year’s International Wine and Spirit Competition in London, only the second time an Australian Merlot has received the award. For information,  www.rosemountestates.com

 

THE REWARDS OF PATIENCE, fifth edition, A definitive guide to cellaring and enjoying Penfolds wines is a book that showcases more than 50 years of Penfolds winemaking.  Its genesis was a tasting of 357 Penfolds red and white wines by an international panel of experts at various South Australian locations over four days in the spring of 2003.  It is the most comprehensive ever.  Information: (707)258-8755 www.penfolds.com

 

FRANCISCAN GRAPE STOMP:  Gather with friends and get your feet wet at Franciscan Oakville Estate's annual grape stomp, where you'll make wine the old fashioned way - up to your knees in juice!  This special harvest event will feature special wine offerings and seasonal foods, "guess the varietal" game and sampling of grapes fresh off the vine.  Sunday, September 5, 2004; 12 p.m. - 4 p.m.; Franciscan Oakville Estate; $25 per person;  R.S.V.P. kindly requested;  (707) 967-3993  events@franciscan.com

 

JOSEPH PHELPS Vineyards President and CEO Tom Shelton accepted the Wine Enthusiast "Winery of the Year" award in NYC.  He also answered some frequently asked questions.  Shelton joined the Phelps team in the difficult vintage year of 1989.  "Fortunately 1990 and 1991 were good vintages and turned around the markets," he says.  "The company has never looked back.  Winemaker Craig Williams has been at Phelps since 1976.  They and other members of the management team share ownership with the Phelps family.  Joe Phelps retired from day to day management but his son Bill is active in the company.  Ours is a vineyard-based production.  We farm 500 acres in Napa Valley and our Insignia and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon are estate grown.  We own vineyards in Carneros, Napa, Yountville (soon to e the Oak Knoll District), Stags Leap District, Oakville District, Rutherford District and St, Helena.  And we continue to search for vineyard land.  I'm fond of saying that JPV is growing by getting smaller!  By that I mean that we are concentrating on the production of fewer wines and clearly identifying vineyard strengths related to fewer grape varieties.  Over the past ten years our vineyard ownership has increased and our annual case production has decreased to less than 95,000.  Over the same period our annual sales have tripled.  Insignia is the cornerstone of the strategy I just described.  It is completely production driven.  Craig has no financial or market mandates that impact his decisions.  The style has evolved for almost thirty years. Craig continues to experiment with vineyard and winemaking practices that may advance wine quality while seeking worldwide opportunities to learn from people and places."

GEYSER PEAK announced early harvest:  Update from Alexander Valley where Geyser Peak Winery's just made history with its earliest harvest on record!  Mick Schroeter gave the go-ahead August 5 to pick Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes from Cloverdale vineyards, which were brought in and pressed this morning and which looked gorgeous, with great flavors and aromatics.  (Cloverdale is located eight miles north of the winery, which, in Alexander Valley, means that it’s in a warmer region and will typically ripen earlier.)      Although harvest has come early, the grapes have seen plenty of time on the vines: a heat spike in March brought bud break on early, and since then Northern California has seen absolutely perfect weather: cool mornings have been followed by consistently warm, sunny afternoons, giving the grapes enough heat to ripen fully, and enough temperate mornings and evenings to allow sugars, tannins and acids to develop to optimum levels. Thus far, 2004 has been a model year for ripening superb grapes, and we fully expect another excellent vintage.

WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE seeks rare Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1960s and is asking wine collectors to help uncover these rare estate 1960s for a commemorative 50-year tasting.   2004 is the 50th vintage for the distinctive black label WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon and the commemorative tasting will be held at the winery on Tuesday, November 16, 2004.  The 1963 and 1964 wine, bottled as Claret is especially needed.  Contact: Winemaker Sue Holder, +61 8-8736 2222 or Liz O'Connell in U.S.A. (707) 256-2664

 

KENDALL-JACKSON 2004 HARVEST UPDATE:  Historically, when the pear harvest begins across Lake and Mendocino counties, you can bet that grapes are not far behind.  So when the earliest pear harvest since 1928 began in earnest during the second week of July, it became clear to grape farmers throughout the North Coast of California that the fall ritual was about to become a summer bonanza.  Driven by a slightly less-than-normal winter rainfall and a mild, frost-free spring on the North Coast, the grapevines got off to a quick growing season with a strong bloom period.  Unfettered by a couple of 100-degree heat spikes during the months of May and June, grape maturation settled into an uneventful and unusually cool period during the month of July.  August seemed to be a weather-wise carbon copy of July.  The cool, foggy mornings gave way each day to temperatures in the mid-eighties and low-nineties * precisely the temperatures grapes thrive on to reach full flavors and maximum maturity.  Kendall-Jackson received its first bins of Sauvignon Blanc at its Lakeport Winery on Monday, July 26, three weeks earlier than in past years.   Overall, Kendall-Jackson will harvest grapes from 12,000 acres of estate-owned vineyards, all located along the cool, coastal regions of Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Monterey and Santa Barbara counties. The winery also purchases grapes from an array of respected growers to round out the flavor profile of its popular Vintner's Reserve wines.  As Kendall-Jackson's vineyard managers race to take advantage of the early harvest, they are witnessing a 5% decline in the tonnage-per-acre totals due to a reduced number of vine shoots and grape clusters per shoot.  These vine shoots and grape clusters are predetermined each year during the previous growing season and growth rates vary from region to region.  It is estimated that because of this year's excellent growing season, the number of all-important vine shoots and grape clusters will return to normal numbers in 2005.   "We expect to be working throughout September, but the way things have shaped up, harvest at K-J should be completed by October 15," said Kendall-Jackson Winemaster Randy Ullom.  "This is still a business where Mother Nature is very much in control, but so far we are tasting grapes that have reached their full intensity and ripeness.  It may be a bit early to make a pronouncement, but 2004 may go down as one of the best vintages on record."

 

XANTERRA PARKS & RESORTS RECEIVED TWO ENVIRONMENTAL ACHIEVEMENTS AWARDS: Xanterra received two National Park Service (NPS) 2004 Environmental Achievement Awards for its environmental performance at Grand Canyon and Zion National Parks. This award recognizes environmental successes throughout the national park system for organizations and individuals demonstrating superior performance and stewardship.  "This recognition reaffirms our continuous pursuit of natural resource protection in the national parks.  As a responsible company we work relentlessly to keep raising the bar for environmental performance in the tourism industry," said Chris Lane, senior director of environmental affairs for Xanterra Parks & Resorts. "These awards are a testament to our employees' commitment to sustainable operations in two of the most beautiful places on earth."
The Grand Canyon Recycling Partnership between Grand Canyon National Park and Xanterra's operations at the South Rim was the NPS
Environmental Achievement Award winner for 2004 in the Team Category.  NPS made special mention of the waste reduction operations at the Grand Canyon and the increase in recycling.  In total, more than 1,454 tons of materials were recycled in 2003. This corresponds to a waste diversion rate of 40.2 percent.

In Zion National Park, Xanterra received honorable mention in the NPS Environmental Achievement Award Partner Category. NPS recognized Zion Lodge's commitment to pollution prevention and waste reduction through numerous internal initiatives that exceeded the requirements of its concession contract.

SILVERADO has produced excellent Cabernet Sauvignon since 1981; however, only ten vintages have merited the rare Limited Reserve label.  The 2001 vintage was one of them.  Please see New Releases below).

 

ST. CLEMENT's new Winemaker Jim Kress' passion for wine began in undergraduate school at Cornell and has continued since his graduate program at U. C. Davis in Viticulture and Enology.

 

RODNEY STRONG Vineyards announced that Michele Prinz has assumed  Public Relations duties for the producer.   Also noted, RODNEY STRONG Vineyards 2001 Jane's Vineyard Pinot Noir tied for the best Pinot Noir in the state with 2002 DAVID BRUCE Winery Pinot Noir, Californian State Fair judging.
  


 

NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

DUCKHORN Vineyards has been making very praise-worthy Merlot for almost three decades.  The Duckhorn Wine Company is a collection of small winery estates focused on site-specific wines of distinction from the Napa and Anderson Valleys.   It includes Duckhorn Vineyards, Paraduxx, and Goldeneye.  With grapes selected from more than ten estate vineyards, as well as a variety of sought-after vineyard sites within the Napa and Anderson Valley appellations, each winery has a canvas of lots for blending its premium wines.  In addition to careful grape selection, innovative winemaking techniques and a premium barrel-aging program are integral to Duckhorn's commitment to quality.  Limited quantities of all wines are available from the winery, throughout the U.S. and the international community.
Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded DUCKHORN Vineyards in 1976.  They have been crafting Bordeaux varietals from the Napa Valley for nearly 30 years.   Duckhorn Vineyards' seven meticulously farmed estate vineyards, located throughout the various microclimates of the Napa Valley, are an essential element in making wines of the highest quality.  One of the first wineries to focus on Merlot as a premium varietal, Duckhorn Vineyards now produces four elegant Merlot and four distinctive Cabernet Sauvignons to showcase the characteristics of its various vineyard sites.  Additionally, they produce a full-flavored Sauvignon Blanc, and an exceptional red Bordeaux blend under the Decoy label.  

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

KULETO ESTATE Family Vineyards owner and culinary entrepreneur PAT KULETO over the last 25 years has achieved world-wide renown for designing over 150 restaurants including San Francisco’s Fog City Diner, Kuleto’s and Postrio, Atlanta’s Buckhead Diner and Chop’s, and Chicago’s Papagus.   Now he has turned his discerning eye to wines.   The grounds around Pat and Shannon Kuleto's St. Helena home are planted with vineyards.  They're in the process of completing a 30,000 case winery, Kuleto Estate Winery.  The winery hosted its first crush in 2001 and now enables him to produce limited quantities of exceptional wines, especially Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Chardonnay.  Bottling his wines under the labels Kuleto Villa and Kuleto Estate Family Vineyards, Kuleto releases will include Zinfandel and Syrah. 
    It was not Kuleto’s intent to become a culinary entrepreneur.  A licensed general contractor at age 25, his career in the restaurant industry began with his
designing and building over 20 Refectory Steakhouses in the 1970’s.  He gained international attention in 1985 with the creation of San Francisco’s Fog City Diner and has gone on to change the culinary landscape by setting a new standard for utilizing design to enhance the dining experience.    When Pat and Shannon Kuleto decided in 1997 to build a winery for their vineyard estate, the challenge for designer Pat was to balance aesthetics and function.  After months of design work, real progress began in June 2000 and the winery was used for the 2001first crush.   The coveted phrase "ESTATE GROWN AND BOTTLED" was then placed on all Kuleto wines.   The winery's design integrates the best traditional and innovative techniques for the most efficient and gentle handling of fruit and juice at every stage of processing.  Most notably, the design calls for gravity flow, a traditional and highly respected "anti-technology" that allows the gentlest possible transference of wines.   Walking paths link the winery, vineyards, gardens, Villa Cucina, and picnic areas.  The landscaping, like the vineyards, is based on sustainable agriculture with twin goals of  water conservation and food production (olive, citrus and fruit orchards, herbs, kitchen vegetable garden, etc).

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

CANTINE LEONARDO DaVINCI wines have nearly 200 vineyard owners contributing their best fruit to grow its Chianti wines.  The Tuscan Cantine is an open association (established in 1961 as a grower's cooperative with 30 grape growers) of small landowners who bring their harvest to a central winery.   With up-to-date modern equipment, the Cantine does continuing research on grape growing and winemaking to serve today's wine lovers.  The wines are principally Sangiovese, the most respected grape of Chianti.  A small amount of "Super Tuscan" blends using Syrah and Merlot also reflect the unique terroir of the vineyards.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

BECKMEN VINEYARDS founder, Tom Beckmen,  spent his childhood working the family ranch and farming.  A natural farmer, he worked his way through college managing farm programs.  Tom is also an entrepreneur who noted the great changes in the music industry during the 1960s and founded Roland Corporation U.S.,  pioneering electronic music and creating the merger of music and computer applications.   Tom's desire to continually evolve prompted his sale of  Roland in 1993 and pursuit of winegrowing.   Since founding Beckmen Vineyards in 1994, Tom has been focused on new innovations for winegrowing in the Santa Ynez Valley.  "My wines must be worthwhile for me, my family and the public who drink them."  Tom's son Steve is the winemaker.  Together they searched for an ideal location and found a 40-acre parcel with an existing small winery.  They polished this jewel in the rough by removing the 16 original acres (planted in 1982) and replanting them to the correct varietals on the correct rootstock, implementing modern viticulture practices.
Today, the Beckmen wines portray the commitment made in the vineyard to become a premier producers of estate Rhône varietals.   Beckmen Vineyards has minimal intervention in the  winemaking and produces a full line of  estate grown Rhône varietals including Syrah, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Rosé, Marsanne, and Cuvée Le Bec (a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Counoise) that exemplify the capabilities of the region.  Also produced are small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc made from small vineyard lots suited to these varietals.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren tells me that the practice of vineyard designation for a varietal wine has been part of the foundation of Chateau St. Jean since its inception in 1973.  "The winery was designed to hold numerous small lots of wine so that every block and picking day could be kept separate.  It's amazing that after 30 years we're still able to do this."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

DOMINUS is described in part as bearing Napa terroir,  and Bordeaux spirit.  Well said.  DOMINUS is the proprietary red wine produced in the heart of Napa Valley by Christian Moueix and his team.  Since 1983, their goal has been to express the unique terroir found at the historic Napanook Vineyard--long recognized for extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon.  Today the vineyard is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remaining acreage with the other classic Bordeaux varietals.  Christian Moueix tells me that he is proud to release the 2001 DOMINUS ($109) with much excitement.  "A vintage with a dark ruby color, it displays a luxuriant nose of licorice, exotic spices Bing cherries and an essence of roses," he says.  "The wine has the unique feature of being rich and complex while possessing a smooth and silky texture.  The flavors develop into an intense finish of cloves and aromatic cassis."  2001 was characterized by an early bloom and long growing season that yielded grapes of exceptional maturity.  The low rainfall brought stress to the vines, contributing to the intensity and complexity of the fruit.  "This elegant wine is truly a classic and will benefit from years of aging.  We recommend decanting the wine prior to serving to allow it to develop its full potential."   NAPANOOK 2001 Estate Bottled, Napa Valley $39 is blended from specific vineyard blocks selected for their lively fruit, soft tannins and early maturing characteristics.  "This vibrant red, harmonious wine has a complex nose of blueberries, hot chocolate and cinnamon.  Robust yet charming, it is loaded with pipe tobac and pomegranate notes, a balanced and supple wine flavored with a long fruity finish."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

LITTLE PENGUIN is Southcorp's newest brand.  Doug Rogers, senior vice president of Marketing, says: "As the leaders in the Australian wine industry, we have a long history of innovation.  In the current North American market we noticed  an opportunity for a new brand that would appeal to certain consumers by offering them an easy-to-drink wine with an entertaining, eye-catching label.  In that spirit, the fun, new Australian wine call the Little Penguin was created.  It's for social drinkers who want to pick up something fun for parties and get-togethers.  Any why penguin?   The little penguin is found around the coast of South Australia with a habitat that frames the best wine growing regions in Australia--and they're very sociable creatures.  Australia's little penguins often gather for delicacies.  we invite you to do the same with this new Little Penguin wine."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 2001 Reserve Fumé Blanc, Dry Creek Valley $18: "Our Reserve Fumé is made from grapes picked at a ripeness that gives the wine a lush quality with lively lemon, cut grass, floral and grapefruit aromas and flavors of melon and fig.  A bit of barrel and malolactic fermentation and a splash of Viognier provides a sot, round mouth-feel that makes it lovely to sip or match with fish or pasta in cream sauce."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

GEYSER PEAK 2002 BLOCK COLLECTION Zinfandel, Lopez Vineyard, Cucamonga Valley $30:  Introduced in 2000, The Block Collection wines express the unique growing conditions in a handful of vineyards that consistently produce outstanding wines.  Each Block Wine reflects the terroir-driven qualities of a unique site within the vineyard.  They are made in miniscule quantities with minimal intervention so the distinctiveness of each site is revealed.  "This individual vineyard Zinfandel has been selected for its richness and unique flavor profile, reflecting the 85-year-old Lopez Vineyard of Rancho Cucamonga in southern California.  Don Galleano still devotedly farms these vines which struggle to produce a crop in the practically desert-like climate. The low yields of between 0.5 to 1 ton to the acre insure that the classic Zinfandel flavors are concentrated and intense.  A warm fermentation incorporating aeration during the pump-over regime extracted exquisite depth of color and vibrant aromatics. The high sugar must was coaxed to dryness to produce a wine of significant weight and length.  The young wine was racked to a blend of new and seasoned oak cooperage.  This wine represents the inaugural vintage of Zinfandel from the Lopez Ranch.  An uncommonly dry spring and summer growing season yielded a big, chewy wine with an excellent core structure to support the supple juicy fruit.  Notes of ripe briar-berry, cedar, earth and underbrush mingle on the nose to form what we affectionately call 'Cucamonga Character.'  The palate has rich black raspberry and cherry fruit accentuated by sweet pipe tobacco.  Pair this robust Zinfandel with roasted meats and vegetables."

GEYSER PEAK 2002 BLOCK COLLECTION Zinfandel, Contra Costa, Sandy Lane Vineyard $30: "14 Months in 60% French Oak 40% American Oak.  This individual vineyard Zinfandel was selected for its richness and unique diversity, a reflection of the terroir in which the grapes were grown.  The sandy soils of Contra Costa County pair with old Zin clones to create an exciting synergism in winemaking.  Own-rooted vines dig deep into the soil of this East Bay farming community and share the landscape with apple and walnut orchards.  Sun baked days ease into cool summer nights via the evening Delta breezes allowing the sugar/acid ratio of the grapes to remain in balance. The result is a low yield of intensely dark, optimally-ripened grapes with jammy flavors.  After fermentation the wine was racked to predominantly seasoned barrels for maturation.  At final blending,  a barrel of spicy Alicante Bouschet was incorporated to add a layer of complexity.  The hedonistically-styled wine embodies what great Zinfandel is all about--deep black fruit,  blackberry and currant underscored by fresh mint and bittersweet chocolate. The glycerin-rich, juicy palate has nuances of coffee, tobacco and a background of briar berry fruit.  Pair with hearty dishes: Osso Bucco, Braised Lamb Shanks, Italian Spaghetti, Sweet Maple Sparerib.

GEYSER PEAK 2000 BLOCK COLLECTION Merlot, Shorenstein Vineyard, Sonoma Valley $26 was aged in 100% French Oak, 30% New 70% one and two-year old oak for 16 months.  "This Block Collection wine is not only an individual vineyard wine, but a selection from within that vineyard, hence the term “block” and represents its richness and unique diversity, a reflection of the terroir in which the grapes were grown. The red volcanic hills just north of the town of Sonoma are closely terraced to provide the perfect setting for red grapes to grow in a unique environment. Doug and Linda Shorenstein own this north-facing vineyard planted with clone 3 Merlot.  The fruit was fermented in our rotary fermenters.  The nature of these fermenters and careful manipulation of the rotation cycles, result in wines of great color and concentration yet soft, round tannins.  The fermentation was completed in new American oak barrels.  Upon racking, the wine was matured in new and seasoned French oak.  The nose of this wine is what makes this Shorenstein Vineyard Merlot stand out as a Block Collection wine.  The aroma is a compilation of black cherry, sage, clove, spice, mint and an underlying component of sweet cedary oak. The palate is rich and round with flavors of wild berries, dried herbs and a finish of plush tannins."

GEYSER PEAK 2001 Merlot, Sonoma County $18: "Alexander Valley was the predominant source of fruit for this Merlot. As evidenced in this wine, bright fruit characters and supple tannins are the hallmarks of red grape varieties grown in this preeminent California appellation. The fruit was harvested at optimum flavor development and fermented in a combination of rotary and traditional upright fermenters.  Moderate fermentation temperatures, a relatively short six day on skin fermentation and restrained use of new oak cooperage captured the essence of the region.   This is a very fruit driven style typical of Merlot with lifted red cherry, raspberry and cola characters dominating but complimented by hints of spice, tobacco and cedary oak. The palate is bright and lively with cherry and plum flavors following through to a finish of plush, velvety tannins.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

HOGUE CELLARS was founded in 1982 by brothers Gary and Mike Hogue in Columbia Valley, Washington premier wine growing region.  Today the property is part of P. H. Phillips' holdings.   Winemaker David Forsyth continues in his capacity of heading a team of fine winemakers.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

SCHRAMSBERG méthode champenoise has released three new vintages of fine American sparkling wine.  Winemaker Hugh Davies tell me that "from the inception of our efforts in 1965, we wanted to achieve the greatest elegance and individuality possible in our sparkling wines.  J. Schram, named for our founder and dedicated to him, epitomizes our philosophy.  Hand-selected grapes from the finest vineyards gain complexity during the winemaking process in both oak barrels and stainless steel tanks before aging for more than five years in our caves."  All the SCHRAMSBERG wines have received many awards through the years and continue to enjoy a sterling reputation.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

CHALK HILL ESTATE VINEYARDS & WINERY 2002 Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Chalk Hill Vineyard $25 is a blend of  89% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Sauvignon Gris, 4% Semillon, fermented 92% in barrel, 603% native/ 40% cultured yeast, 100% natural malolactic, aged ten months sur lies in 30% new oak.  "Chalk Hill Estate's passion for terroir and clonal selection is brought to life in our 2002 Sauvignon Blanc," co-owner Peggy Furth says.  "With several distinctive growing sites on the estate and a potpourri of clones, the wine captures the uniqueness of our land.  Oak Hill vineyard represents various clones separated into tiny parcels: UCD 01, the industry standard; Loire-et-Cher Clone CTPS 378, which offers aromatic perfume and tropical flavors; and block sauvignon gris, which brings a lush texture to the blend.  Chalk Hill estate Block Q sauvignon blanc delivers forward stone fruit and mineral quality.  And semillon, a complementary variety, punctuates the blend's full and weighty mouthfeel."  For 2002, whole-cluster grapes were pressed and fermented in oak to balance richness and vibrancy.  The wine is concentrated and complex with mouth-filling flavors, velvety texture and lengthy finish.  And its depth and richness allow pairings with an immense range of cuisine.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

DIERBERG VINEYARDS owners Jim and Mary Dierberg searched California ten years for the ideal place to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and decided Santa Maria Valley was the place.  "Our vineyard is located fourteen miles from the Pacific Ocean in the southern end of the Santa Maria Valley and features a variety of hillside slopes, sandy loam soils and western exposures planted with an ensemble of classic, low yielding Burgundian clones. This ideal combination of climate, aspect, soil and clonal material allows us to produce truly distinctive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay" the Dierbergs told me.  They planted their 160-acre Dierberg Vineyard in 1997with ten different Pinot Noir clones and seven Chardonnay clones matched with a variety of limiting rootstocks.  Grapes are evaluated annually from a total of 25 blocks of Pinot Noir and then rigorously selected.    DIERBERG VINEYARDS 2002 Pinot Noir, Santa Maria $33 is a forward with bright aromas of dark cherry and ripe plum accented by notes of rhubarb, vanilla, smoke, sage and dark earth.  The palate is medium full bodied and finely structured with flavors of concentrated, ripe dark cherries, plums and a hint of green olive that culminates in a persistent, long, flavorful finish."
THREE SAINTS VINEYARD wines are a vivid expression of carefully selected grapes from our vineyards in three of Santa Barbara County's premium wine growing regions: Santa Maria, Santa Rita, and Santa Ynez Valley.  THREE SAINTS VINEYARD 2002 Estate Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley $20 has "concentrated Meyer lemon, pear and apple aromas with accents of marzipan and minerals.  It's medium-full bodied, rich with lemon and apple flavors accented by bright acidity, balanced oak and a lingering finish."  THREE SAINTS VINEYARD 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Barbara County $24 is fruit forward with ripe plum and dark sweet cherries balanced with oak and touch of dried herbs and minerals.  Medium-full bodied on palate with concentrated flavors of boysenberry, cherry, plum complemented by rich tannins.  It will gain complexity over next five years."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

FLORA SPRINGS 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $30: "2001 started very early, had a penetrating frost on April 3, 4, and 5th followed by intense heat that caused some shatter and crop reduction.  An almost perfect growing season had an early harvest in mid August but slowed as temperatures cooled.    Aged for almost two years in French, American and Eastern European oak, this wine exhibits all the classic characteristics of a Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley - full, forward, mouth-filling black cherry fruit with cassis and cocoa. The finish is smooth and lingering - a nicely balanced wine with oak undertones."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

Rancho ZABACO is well-known for its big, bold Zinfandels, but it produces two distinct white wines as well.  The Reserve Sauvignon Blanc comes from Russian River Valley--a place of rich volcanic-mineral soil and cool climate.  The Reserve Pinot Gris is 100% from Sonoma Coast from another cool climate area with richness.  The source for ZABACO Reserve Zinfandel is Dry Creek Valley, also called "Zin Zone."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

WILLIAM HILL 2001 Chardonnay, Napa $21: "All wine was fermented and underwent malolactic in barrel, aged on lees for seven months--stirred twice monthly, and aged in combination new and one-year-old French barrels.  Meticulous vineyard selection and barrel fermentation are the key to our distinctive style, flavor and fruit with tropical nuances.  Aromas of apple, pineapple and sweet oak give way to forward tropical fruit flavors highlighted by toasty oak and spice balanced with a note acidity, silky mouthfeel and a hint of butterscotch on the lingering finish.". 

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

CLOS DU VAL Napa Valley.  1970, American businessman John Goelet sent French-born winemaker Bernard Portet off with a passport and a mission to find new territory with the potential to produce world-class wines. Two years and five continents later, Portet landed in California. Portet got a sense of Napa Valley’s microclimates by driving through the area with his arm out the car window. Struck by the cool evenings and idyllic terrain of the then-undiscovered Stags Leap District, he proposed the area to Goelet. Convinced, Goelet purchased 150 acres of land and founded Clos Du Val, a “small estate of a small valley” in 1972. Soon thereafter Clos Du Val became one of the first wineries to stake a claim on some of the finest hillside land in the cool-climate region of Carneros, purchasing 180 acres in 1973.   Portet’s old-world approach to winemaking combined with Napa Valley fruit established Clos Du Val’s tradition of limited-release, handcrafted estate-style wines of  balance, elegance and complexity. The first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1972 was one of only five California Cabernets selected for the now-legendary 1976 Paris Tasting. That same vintage took first place in a rematch 10 years later, proving that Clos Du Val wines age with grace.  Co-founder, President and Director of Winemaking Bernard founded Clos Du Val to produce limited-release, handcrafted, estate-style wines that blend old-world artisan techniques with the extraordinary character of Napa Valley fruit. Today Clos Du Val wines continue to evoke Portet’s style of balance, complexity, elegance and a long finish.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

SILVERADO VINEYARDS has been quietly producing world-class wines in the Stags Leap District--one of the smallest, yet most renowned, wine growing regions in Napa Valley--in its state-of-the-art winery for over 20 years.  With grapes sourced almost entirely from Silverado’s family-owned estate vineyards, these hand-crafted wines are created in small lots with extreme care to express richness, elegance and age-worthiness.  Silverado wines are one-of-a-kind blends of location, philosophy and winemaking style.

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

ST. CLEMENT Vineyards new Winemaker Jim Kress has a love for blending; consequently, OROPPAS holds a special interest for him.  "Oroppas is a very special Meritage, where the true art of blending comes into play.  The 2001 OROPPAS ($50) is 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc from vineyards throughout Napa Valley.   The ability to select special barrel lots to blend makes the outcome a reward to the palate.   It has aromas and flavors ripe black plum, blackberry and violets, lovely ripe and unctuous fruit continuing throughout a long finish of black cherry, spices and toasted oak."

                ___________________________________________________________________________________

VEUVE CLICQUOT 1998 Rosé Reserve, Champagne, France ($75)  is 58% Pinot Noir, 11% Pinot Meunier and 31% Chardonnay.  This blend is completed with 14% red wine from Bouzy, produced from Pinot Noir grapes originating in Veuve Clicquot's vineyards.  "VEUVE CLICQUOT is famous for its rosé champagne, the result of both the winemaker's knowledge and expertise combined with the House tradition of winemaking which reaches back more than 200 years.  A pioneering House in the domain of rosé champagne, VEUVE CLICQUOT was the firsts the commercialize it as early as September 1775.  In keeping with tradition, VEUVE CLICQUOT's Rosé Reserve is only made in the greatest years, and is a blend of white and red wine.  It has an attractive pinky-orange color with deep copper accents.  Effervescence is lively and long lasting.  Aromas are of red and yellow fruits (wild strawberries, blueberries, peaches, pears) leading to warmer notes of figs and brioche.  The attack is attractive and clear with a good deal of strength and body in the background.  It is balanced between concentrated fruitiness and elegant freshness with a satiny texture and is solidly built and yet delicate with a long finish." 

           __________________________________________________________________________________

SOUTHCORP Wines has released several new ROSEMOUNT products.

           ___________________________________________________________________________________

PEPPER BRIDGE WINERY 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla, Washington $50: "We learn more about our vineyards with each vintage, and the more we learn, the more excited we become.  The 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon is the first one made entirely at our state-of-the-art winery.  Of course we always give extra care to the grapes by hand-harvesting them, but this is the first time we could provide that TLC all the way through the process.   I’m a little picky about how my wines are handled.  We closely monitored each individual tank and barrel from this vintage.  Each cluster of grapes was hand-sorted before moving to the fermentation tanks and flowing by gravity to the caves 38' below.   This wine is rich, smooth and concentrated, with layers of black currant, blackberry, and chocolate mocha flavors with earthy and spicy tones. The finish is amazingly long and detailed, with supple and seamless tannins--a true mix of very ripe fruit, elegance and finesse. The wine aged 23 months in 70% new French oak barrels.   The 2000 vintage was like that rare child who gives no trouble as a youth and matures to do great things as an adult.  The spring weather was clear and calm for bloom and we had one burst of very warm weather in late July that set the vines up perfectly for veraison and ripening.  Veraison started about August 6 and harvest began with Merlot at Seven Hills Vineyard on September 20th and finished with Cabernet Sauvignon at Pepper Bridge Vineyard on October 16th."  - Jean-François Pellet, Winemaker
Varietal(s): 93.4 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.6% Merlot
Vineyard(s): 70.4 % Seven Hills Vineyard, 29.6 % Pepper Bridge Vineyard,
Appellation: 100% Walla Walla Appellation
                  ___________________________________________________________________________________

 BOOK REVIEWS: North American Pinot Noir and The Winemaker's Dance. The University of California Press has published several new books on wine.  The Winemaker's Dance authors' were inspired by their observation: "What you're tasting in a bottle of wine is a hundred million years of geologic history."  Jonathan Swinchatt and David Howell explored the terroir of Napa Valley and called the interaction between winegrowers, winemakers and the physical elements of terroir a dance through the growing season, the harvest and into the winery from barrel to bottle.  My colleague Rod Smith describes the book well: "A page-turner on wine and geology? Here it is. Engaging, lucid, substantive, with colorful characters, brand-new theories and the momentum of a detective story--The Winemaker's Dance  is hard to put down. Anyone who has ever suspected that there's more to a glass of wine than mere grape juice will want to accompany Swinchatt and Howell on a fascinating trip to the heart of Napa Valley terroir."  In The Winemaker's Dance: (September, $34.95), is the only comprehensive book covering Napa Valley's geology, history, and environment that is enlivened by the voices of its winemakers talking about their craft.     North American Pinot Noir, says Chef Bradley Ogden, co-owner, Lark Creek Restaurant Group "demystifies Pinot Noir and explains how American craftsman winemakers turn out wines made from Burgundy's legendary grape. Pinot noir pairs exceptionally well with a wide variety of foods, making it one of my personal favorites--and the ideal choice when dining out."  North American Pinot Noir (September, $35.95) includes extensive historical and viticultural background on pinot noir, detailed profiles of over six dozen prominent producers in California, Oregon, British Columbia, and New York, and is a consumer sourcebook with chapters on finding, buying, serving, and storing pinot noir, suggested food pairings, glassware, and pinot terminology.

The 43rd Newsletter (September 2001) inaugurated the "WINERY OF THE MONTH" feature.  With more than 900 wineries in California alone, and so many deserving producers, selections are almost impossible.  Here is the list of the wineries listed over those years.    

66th DOMINUS

65th EBERLE

64th CHALK HILL

63rd SHAFER

62nd SCHUG  

61st J. LOHR

60th MONTICELLO

59th CAYMUS

58th BOLLINGER

57th FALL CREEK

56th ZD

55th PORT  special

54th SPARKLING WINE special

53rd DOMAINE CHANDON

52nd ROBERT  MONDAVI

51st FETZER

50th CHATEAU  MONTELENA

49th DRY  CREEK; GRGICH HILL--ANNIVERSARIES

48th KENDALL-JACKSON

47th GEYSER PEAK

46th SIGNORELLO

45th HANDLEY

44th BERINGER

43rd PENFOLDS


 

© 2004 Sarah Jane English

Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com

Webmaster:Texas Computer Technologies