The
Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 64th Edition
June
14, 2004
TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store, please select vintage available) Best Buy $
PERFECT 10 BRUNETTE, Paso Robles Merlot $10
PERFECT 10 BLONDE, Monterey Chardonnay $10
CHATEAU POTELLE 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley $15
MATUA 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand $11
R.H. PHILLIPS EXP 1999 Tempranillo $14
GEYSER PEAK 2000 Chardonnay $12
VALLEY OF THE MOON 2000 Chardonnay Sonoma $14
CHATEAU MONTELENA 2000 Chardonnay Napa Valley $33
YANGARRA 2001 Grenache $8
STONESTREET 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma $21
YANGARRA 2001 Shiraz $8
WINERY OF THE
MONTH:
"Chalk Hill is a ruggedly beautiful
1,200 acre estate surrounded by heritage oak woodlands and
natural
riparian streams," owner Peggy Furth explains. "A
scant 292 vineyard acres encompass a patchwork of 60 different small
vineyards, each producing distinctive wines of elegance and power.
Our artisans of the vineyard and cellar collaborate to handcraft our
wines that show the diverse character of our Chalk Hill Estate. Chalk
Hill is also an appellation. It is one of ten in Sonoma
County—a region of fine wine, remarkable beauty and agricultural
abundance. Unique biospheres distinguish Chalk Hill from the
neighboring appellations—the cooler Russian River Valley to the
west and the warmer Alexander Valley to the northeast. Elevations at
Chalk Hill are higher; soil fertility is lower. In amazing proximity,
the soils range from shallow to deep, from thin to thick, from gravel
and rock to heavy clay. An old river bed caps one hill; an unusual
serpentine vein ranges through another. And under the topsoil is a
distinctive layer of chalk-colored volcanic ash which inspired the
name of Chalk Hill, the appellation and the estate. We continue to
learn something new about Chalk Hill with every spade full of soil we
analyze, with every vine we plant, with every wine we make,"
Peggy Furth says. The Estate wines include Chardonnay, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Gris. These are
elegant, full-flavored wines of distinction. Treat yourself to
these Chalk Hill treasures. (please see selections under "New
Releases") www.chalkhill.com
Peggy also has tips for pairing wine with
food. She suggests that a well-balanced wine will work
with a larger selection of foods.
Six basic types of food and
wine pairings are:
1.Complementing: when the flavors in the foods
support the flavor in the wine.
2.Contrasting: the use of the
food as a counterbalance and/or as refreshment to the dish.
3.Synergy: surpassing the flavor of the wine and the food flavors
greater than the individual components.
4.Spotlighting: exposing
the different flavors that make up the overall experience of the
wine. Using foods to take a wine apart to show the individual flavor
nuances.
5.Greater flavors: Any flavor in the food that is
greater that the same basic flavor in the wine will mute this flavor
in the wine. If the sweetness in the food is greater than the fruit
level in the wine, the perception of the fruit in the wine will
diminish. This will accent the remaining flavors in the wine such as
acid, tannins, wood and so on.
6.Lesser flavors: Any flavor in the
food that is less than the same basic flavor in the wine will
increase this perception of flavor in the wine. If the sweetness in
the food is less than the fruit level of the wine the perception of
the fruit in the wine will increase. This will decrease the
perception of the remaining flavors in the wine such as acid,
tannins, wood and so on.
Balance the weight of the wine to the
weight of the food. Lighter tasting wines work well with lighter
tasting foods.
Balance the intensity of flavors; if you have a
big wine you can use big flavors.
Texture needs to be congruent
with the mouth feel and structure of the wine.
Have fun and enjoy
good wine with good friends. It is the communal experience that will
make any food and wine pairings.
AULER
FAMILY has announced a New Wine Brand, PERFECT 10: Chad
Auler introduced me to the new Blonde and Brunette in his life with
promises that the Redhead was next. No, he is not collecting a
harem; rather, the Auler family is expanding their line of premium
wines. Chad and I tasted the PERFECT 10 BLONDE, Monterey
Chardonnay and PERFECT 10 BRUNETTE, Paso Robles Merlot during lunch
at Ranch 616. Both wines are well-made, fruit forward,
and nicely structured with just the right acidity to go with myriad
foods. I tasted both with fried asparagus (usually difficult to
match but both wines passed the test) dipped in tomatillo and a
chipotle sauce. We had both wines with salads, fried calamari,
tortilla-crusted chicken, and blue cheese. They were a good
match with everything. Sipped alone or with food, you couldn't
spend ten happier dollars.
Chad Auler,
Vice-President of the family partnership, conceived the PERFECT 10
brand, for wine consumers who continually look for unique, quality
and exciting products for a reasonable price. He also
noticed the importance of packaging. "Quality wine,
packaging and price are major considerations for many consumers,"
Chad told me. "These preferences translated to my idea for
PERFECT 10, which draws on the comparisons throughout time between
wine and beautiful women." Words like elegance, charm,
stylish, grace and finesse are used to describe both women and wine.
The labels complete the concept with appropriate artwork--a blonde
and a brunette model stylishly posed. "In accordance
with the brand concept, I designated the 2002 Merlot Brunette and the
2003 Chardonnay Blonde. Wine should be fun and part of a
healthy lifestyle," Chad says, "and that is my wish in
creating PERFECT 10 Blonde and Brunette wines."
ARTICLES
VISIT THE ALL AMERICAN DESTINATION--MOUNT RUSHMORE AND THE BLACK HILLS OF S.D. Mount Rushmore Inspires Artists—Nature and Man Exhibit Art in the Black Hills: Art on mountains, art in Rapid City on Main Street and art in galleries offer a variety of sculptures in granite, bronze and paper—from the dramatic to the exquisite.
Nature has influenced art since man first stood upright. The artistic diversity in the Black Hills of South Dakota, however, has added dimensions not found elsewhere. For example, a unique combination of nature, man and art have juxtaposed on a mountain—Mount Rushmore. The artist’s dream and a blast of dynamite began the creation of a sculpture that continues to perpetuate hope and art.
In 1927, when artist Gutzon Borglum was 60 years old, he began sculpting four American presidential faces on Mount Rushmore. Many works had established his reputation, including a bronze head of Abraham Lincoln in the Washington Capitol and a New York Museum of Art group bronze. But the colossal challenge of sculpting Mt. Rushmore propelled Borglum into a concentrated frenzy of determination. Against all odds, it succeeded gigantically and is now called America’s Shrine of Democracy.
No less an accomplishment was conjuring workers to learn the skills for the project on a 5,725-foot up thrust of mountain. Of the 400 or so men who carved the mountain, only seven remain alive. One of them is Don "Nick" Clifford and I met him.
"I was 17 when I went to Mount Rushmore," Nick says. "No one had ever heard of sculpting with dynamite."
Nick and the other miners who carved the faces of Presidents Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt were familiar with explosives, but knew nothing about creating a work of art. Gutzon Borglum apparently beguiled them with his compelling personality and patriotic fervor. Nick respected him and worked on the project for five years.
"What I liked was working with the other miners and Mr. Borglum," 82-year-old Nick remembers. "It was just a job to me. I didn’t know what to expect or how we’d make faces in granite. But first we had to get there, and that meant walking up 500 steps each day," Nick says. "We were happy when the tram was built because it was quicker and your pay didn’t begin until your work did. But using tools up there was hard, especially from the boson's swing."
The boson's chair hung from cables and workers were strapped in clutching their jackhammers while the winch cranked them into place. Strong weather could swing the chair unmanageably, making leverage impossible in high winds. Nick praised the introduction of "the box"--a box-shaped platform secured to the mountain with chains and spikes. It held the worker steady and had a place for tools. Work progressed faster after "the box" was installed.
Watching the images of the presidents unfold must have seemed like legerdemain. With a dynamite blast, a jackhammer drill and a chisel, the miners-turned-artists shaped rugged crags of granite into gigantic noses, chins and ears. Slowly their skills magically smoothed the rim of the mountain into recognizable features. Their work seemed even more miraculous as the resemblances grew increasingly familiar. The realistic faces, varying from 15 to 21 meters in height, appear to regard the Black Hills, keeping watch from 152 meters up the mountain. Borglum mystically captured the presidential expressions, strangely lifelike when the sun casts light and shadows upon the mountain in the early morning and at dusk. Somehow, the portraits appear to respond to nature.
Since the completion of Mount Rushmore National Memorial in 1941 the monument has been broadly admired. Many of the visitors each year say it evokes the same respect as the Statue of Liberty.
A few miles from Mount Rushmore, another mountain transformation is taking place in Custer State Park. The ongoing carving project is of Crazy Horse, the Lakota/Sioux warrior who defeated Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer at the Battle of Little Bighorn (1876). Indians were continually pushed off their lands by white settlers and then by those excited by the gold rush. The Battle of Little Bighorn allowed Sioux sentiment to express itself, even though eventually the Indians were restrained. When finished, this tribute to Crazy Horse astride a stallion will be the world’s largest mountain sculpture. To date, only the face has been finished and it has taken 50 years. Nonetheless, devotion to the enterprise has not wavered. The privately funded project of sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski (now deceased) continues unabated by his wife Ruth and seven of their ten children. Indeed, I was present for a dynamite blasting that furthers the project. For the event, a construction engineer plopped a hardhat on my head and told me to dive under the truck if the boulders came bounding down too quickly.
While other artistic expressions diminish in scale from the mountain sculptures, art abounds in a variety of mediums throughout the Black Hills.
In Rapid City, placing life-size bronzes of the American presidents on downtown street corners comes from a desire of Don Perdue, founder of The City of Presidents Foundation. The idea was sparked when he saw how people responded to Borglum’s statue "Seated Lincoln" in front of Hotel Alex Johnson in 1988. Rapid City historian Carol Cameron tells how the project started.
"The President Lincoln bronze belongs to the Borglum Historical Center in Keystone," she says. "It closes in the winter; consequently, different Black Hills locations borrow the huge statue and it gets more exposure. That’s why it was at Alex Johnson Hotel in Rapid City," she recalls. "Mr. Perdue saw how much everyone enjoyed the Lincoln bronze. Visitors would stand and admire it. Locals brought their children and they would climb up to sit in President Lincoln’s lap, on his head or beside him on the bench. That gave Mr. Perdue the idea to make Rapid City "The City of Presidents."
The foundation is raising the money to put a bronze of every president in the downtown area. So far about a dozen have been completed.
The first four statues (George Washington, John Adams, Ronald Reagan and George W.H. Bush) were unveiled in October 2000 by the South Dakota artists who created them. Artist John Lopez selected John Adams because he is related to him through his mother’s side of the family. Each sculpture has a different artist and each has sculpted his president most convincingly.
When I stepped up the curb to face these dedicated national bronze leaders eye to eye, there was an immediate sense of familiarity. It seemed that I ought to introduce myself and have a pleasant conversation. The presidents are attractively presented in the appropriate garments of their time and are the correct size, for the most part. For example, George Washington and George H.W. Bush are 6 feet 2 inches, Ronald Reagan is 6 feet 1 inch, William McKinley is 5 feet 7 inches and John Adams at 5 feet 9 inches was given a couple of extra inches.
Another handsome bronze for a different artistic endeavor stands in front of Prairie Edge Trading Co. & Gallery. To honor the invincible spirit of the Lakota, Prairie Edge owners commissioned world-renowned artist Glenna Goodacre to create an Indian sculpture. Her works include the life-size bronze of President Reagan in the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Sacagawea for the new millennium golden dollar coin. Goodacre titled the impressive (9 feet 9 inches) Native American sculpture "HE IS THEY ARE." The plaque beside it reads: "The Sioux and the Plains Indians were moved from their homelands and placed on reservations. Though their ‘hands are tied,’ the dream of their homeland remains." The Indian statue dominates the street corner, appearing pensive bordering on forlorn from the front; and, when the viewer steps around to the back, the Indian’s hands are bound. It is a heart-burdening piece.
The historic Prairie Edge building was constructed in 1886. Ray Hillenbrand bought, restored and renamed the building to showcase Lakota art in 1993. Now this Main Street emporium has the most extensive collection of Plains Indian art in the area.
Inside Prairie Edge’s 25,000 square feet there are cases of Indian amulets, bows, knives and sheaths; beaded clothes; flutes and drums; ceremonial robes; and a gallery with handsome Plains Indians’ art.
One special sculpture, however, caught my attention and I was riveted. It was a cast paper sculpture by Patty and Allen Eckman titled "Powwow." This precision sculpture shows why the artists are recognized as the world’s premier artists of the cast paper medium. The Eckmans invented the process and have trademarked it.
"Cast paper sculpture has nothing to do with papier-mậché," Patty explains. "Cast paper work began in the 1950s. Allen mixes acid-free paper pulps from raw stocks and puts it in clay molds. It’s pressed under vacuum pressure to extract water. Evaporation dries the paper casts, which he removes from the molds--then the art begins. It takes a great amount of time and experience to create each piece."
Certainly "Powwow" verifies that remark. The large sculpture is 7 feet by 5 feet by 18 inches and has 24 human figures, 3 horses and an eagle—all free standing on a relief background. It has amazing delicacy and intricacy. The alabaster white piece is filled with tiny details in an unimaginably finiteness of wispy feathers, creased tree bark, furrowed facial expressions, and Indian-fringed garments. The quality of this work is truly exquisite and unique. It resembles very refined bisque, like Boehm porcelain birds.
"Our sculptures are museum quality," Allen says, "made with my secret formula materials. Our methods are well guarded. Its longevity equals that of other fine art sculpture mediums like bronze. One major difference is that our sculpture is lightweight so pieces can hang on a wall or be placed on furniture without damaging it."
Allen begins a work with a series of drawings. They’re his blueprints. The next painstaking steps include sculpting and modeling objects out of wax, clay and other materials. Sometimes the artists include actual shells or claws in their pieces; however, feathers are always hand sculpted.
I stood before "Powwow" transfixed by appreciation. Colored pieces can have an artistic advantage because color often excites the senses irrespective of the work and in a multiplicity of ways. Pure, electric-white sculpture draws respect differently somehow, an awe for a kind of purity and flawlessness that heightens one’s sensibility to another level. I felt privileged to experience the Eckman’s art.
Man, however, does not live by art alone. For a nonpareil dinner, enjoy the best food in Rapid City at Chef M.J. Adams’ restaurant, The Corn Exchange. Everything is superb!
CONTACTS
Mount Rushmore National Memorial: (605) 574-2307; www.nps.gov/moru
Crazy Horse Memorial: Memorial@crazyhorse.org
Hotel Alex Johnson: 800/888-2539; www.alexjohnson.com, Simple comfort in a refurbished historic hotel
Prairie Edge Gallery: (605) 341-4525: A thorough, thoughtful catalogue with useful and historic information (call 800/541-2388)
D.B.A. Eckman Fine Art Inc.: (605) 343-4252, studio; (605) 342-7618, home: www.eckmanfineart.com
The Corn Exchange Restaurant: www.cornexchange.com 605/343-5070; Tues.-Sat. dinner only; A gem. Chef’s food is superb.
OTHER BLACK HILLS ATTRACTIONS
The Journey Museum (1997 opening) brings together 2.5 billion years of Black Hills history, handsomely displayed in a well-designed format in this pleasant museum. It has four major prehistoric and historic collections to tell the story of the Western Great Plains from the perspective of the Lakota people and the pioneers who shaped its past, to the scientists who now study it. Open seven days a week journey@journeymuseum.org
Mammoth Site in Hot Springs is acknowledged as a model to other paleontological and archeological research programs. Scientists estimate nearly 100 mammoths were trapped and died in this spring-fed sinkhole—the only in situ display of fossil mammoths in America. A 20,000 square foot visitors center now covers the sinkhole and enables visitors a first-hand view. www.mammothsite.com
Badlands National Park: More than 35 million years of wind and water have eroded the landscape to create what the Lakota Indians called "mako sica" or "land bad." The 244,000-acre Badlands National Park is comprised of colorful spires and pinnacles, massive buttes and deep gorges, a combination resulting in a desolate beauty. Bands of color indicate years of minerals deposited through time. www.nps.gov
Wind Cave has been protected since 1903 when it became the United States’ seventh national park. One of the world’s oldest caves, it is 320 million years old. Ocean deposits and sediments changed passages and conformations and later erosion changed surface drainage patterns. As the modern Wine Cave formed, many newer passages intersected the older filled cave, revealing the red clay and sandstone sediments of 320 million ago. A three-dimensional network of passages formed, creating one of the most complex caves in the world. www.nps.gov/wica (605) 745-4600
OLD FAITHFUL
INN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK CELEBRATES 100TH ANNIVERSARY DURING
2004 SUMMER SEASON
Xanterra
Parks & Resorts will host "Heritage Days" events June
19-20 and August 28-29, a free three-day event featuring
historical programs and displays. Heritage Days is open to the public
and will be a celebration of the cultural heritage of Yellowstone and
will include special tours of the area and the Old Faithful Inn,
historic and artistic presentations, and special interpretive
exhibits provided by several local museums and organizations.
Yellowstone Park Association and the Northern
Pacific Railroad partnered building the Old Faithful Inn (1903-04) to
satisfy a demand for luxurious accommodations. Architect Robert
Reamer directed 40 craftsmen to construct the Inn. The Inn's
logs were cut from a forested area about four miles south of Old
Faithful geyser, and its stone was quarried from the Black Sand Basin
and other nearby areas. Many materials were brought into the park,
including roof shingles produced in the state of Washington.
The original structure, now called the Old House, featured 140 rooms
with such luxurious amenities as electricity, heat and plumbing.
Some of the rooms even had private bathrooms for the high-rollers.
A wood-burning boiler provided heat. Most of the original Old
Faithful Inn remains intact, but several additions were made through
the years. Among the most significant were the addition of the
East Wing in 1913, expansion of the dining room in 1922 and addition
of the West Wing in 1927. What is now the Inn's snack bar was
built in 1936 as the Bear Pit Lounge. In 1940 the bark was stripped
from both structural and decorative logs, and the logs were varnished
in 1966.
"Parkitecture"
While the Inn was designed to
blend in with its surroundings, its influence on lodge design has
been anything but understated. Elements of the Old Faithful Inn
design are found in the Old Faithful Lodge right next door to the Inn
as well as in other parks and vacation destinations across the
country. While less famous than the Inn, the Old Faithful Lodge on
the other side of its geyser namesake as well as the Roosevelt Lodge
in the northeast quadrant of the park have the "parkitecture
look." Direct influences are as varied as the Wilderness Lodge
in Walt Disney World and the Blue Sky Grill, a restaurant in Denver's
Pepsi Center.
While the Old Faithful Inn is certainly interesting
from the outside, it is the interior that most often causes visitors
to stop and gaze in
wonder. The 76-foot high lobby features four
levels of balconies with railings and supports created from gnarled
branches. The stone chimney
was constructed of 500 tons of
rhyolite quarried within five miles of the Inn and features eight
fireboxes. The clock on the side of the
chimney is fourteen feet
tall. High in the lobby, almost to the roof, is the "Treehouse"
where musicians used to entertain guests. Stairs also
lead up and
out to the Inn's roof, but they are no longer open to the public
because of the high volume of visitors and associated
safety
concerns.
Maintaining the Inn
Today when the Inn
requires repairs and improvements, Xanterra's Historic Preservation
Crew gets the job. Using traditional methods and
old-fashioned and
often low-tech tools, the crew preserves famous and historic
structures for future generations. Through trial and error, the
crew
determined that older tools were much better suited for certain tasks
as opposed to today's equipment. For example, the crew
initially
tried chain saws on log work but quickly saw they were
unwieldy and inefficient, so they switched to broad axes and adzes.
Inn Tidbits
-It would be difficult, if not impossible to
duplicate the Inn's construction today. Cutting down trees, gathering
wood and quarrying
rock inside the park are now all illegal.
-Two
of the dormer windows in the long front roof are actually fake,
providing an asymmetrical appearance.
-The Northern Pacific
Railroad and the Yellowstone Park Association financed the
construction of Old Faithful Inn at a cost of approximately
$140,000,
with an additional $25,000 for furnishings.
-Much of the
furniture, including the original rustic hickory chairs found in the
dining room, is from the Old Hickory Furniture Company. Old
Hickory
is still in business.
-The fires of 1988 posed a serious threat
the Inn. The North Fork fire destroyed several cabins and other
buildings in the area September 7,
1988, but the Inn did not burn.
Just the year before, a sprinkler system was installed to cascade
water over the Inn's roofs in case of fire.
- Six U.S. presidents
have visited the Inn, the most recent being President Clinton.
-The
Three Stooges stayed at the Inn. They did not, however, sleep three
across in one bed snoring in their coordinated "mi, mi, mi, mi"
fashion.
-Timbers used for the porte cochere at the nearby Old
Faithful Snow Lodge came from a dismantled sawmill owned by Aloha
Lumber Company,
which supplied the lumber and cedar shingles for
the Old Faithful Inn in 1903/1904.
Reservations at Yellowstone can
be made by calling (1) 307-344-7311 or visiting the site
www.TravelYellowstone.com.
Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival
Festivals by nature are lively affairs with wine, food and music abounding. Central Texas’ major festival--the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival (THCWFF)--celebrated its 19th event this April, marking its enthusiastic approval with a truly Texas-size growth. In 1985, Susan Auler, founder of the event, called together several friends to consider how to promote the bounty of the Texas Hill Country. For the inaugural festival the following year, Susan and I and four other ladies hand-addressed and stamped 20,000 invitations. We were thrilled to have several hundred participants that first year. This year, the second year for the Saveur magazine partnership, the Sunday Fair alone recorded about 4,000 attendees. Additionally, there were more than 60 other events. Since I couldn’t attend all, selecting among them called for heroic choices.
Wine tastings were featured in multiple venues. There were 18 Texas wineries and 12 guest vintners from California, Washington and Australia. Texas wines showed well and I was pleased to discover a couple of new ones.
Cheeses, southern-style cooking, barbecue, wine and food luncheons, cooking demonstrations, desserts and dessert wine pairings, wine seminars, and music for listening and dancing were just some of the programs that filled the four-day event at the official hotels: Four Seasons and the Driskill.
Having a huge sweet tooth, I began with desserts. "Edible Endings" was the name of a program that paired desserts and dessert wines and swamped my tastebuds deliciously. Many extraordinary chocolates and other concoctions were offered. Four Seasons Pastry Chef Tony Sansalone prepared Rich Chocolate Timbale Mousse and a Vanilla Bean Crème Brulée, both accompanied by the Schramsburg Crament sparkling wine. I believe sparkling wines go with any food. Each bite and sip was a heavenly moment. At another table Chef Fran Hendriks, chocolatier extraordinare of Bastrop, showcased stacks and rows of his handcrafted, beautiful bonbons and truffles. I think my favorite was the White Chocolate Truffle filled with satiny lemon curd cream rolled in toasted coconut. Or maybe the Chocolate-covered Port and Sun-dried Cherry Truffle, excellent with the Truchard Vineyard’s first dessert wine, the 2001 Chardonnay Botrytis with is floral nose of dried apricots, honeysuckle, and tropical fruit. With only 220 cases produced, this golden nectar is rare; and, although Tony Truchard makes his wines in Napa, he is a former Texan, which explains his generosity. His ancestor was a winemaker near Houston in the late 1800s.
Matthew Lee, owner of Babbo’s Italian Gelato & Coffee in Austin, served five gelato flavors—including the fabulous chocolate. I segued with some of the rich vanilla to the next table, where Kathy Osban, co-owner of R.O.’s Outpost in Spicewood, served a blackberry cobbler that was enchanting. I asked for a second helping and went back for more vanilla gelato. Haak Vineyards 2003 Blanc du Bois, Texas complemented these desserts.
Rebecca Rather (formerly of Bread Alone in Austin) moved to Fredericksburg to open her bakery, Rather Sweet. I felt very happy to rediscover her excellent baking. Her display at "Edible Endings" featured many of the baked goods and sweet things she creates. The shortbread cookie iced in pink was perfect.
Sweet Venus Delights owner Achim Thiemermann convincingly touts his coconut macaroons as making Austin the "Live Macaroon Capital of the World." I love coconut and his cookies were full of flavor, moist, and succulent to excess. The pairing with Texas’ Flat Creek Estate Travis Peak Select 2000 Muscato Blanco worked well. I was extremely pleased to discover these marvelous macaroons: I was already aware of Flat Creek’s delicious wine.
The Texas Culinary Academy hosted a Texas wine tasting with releases from several wineries. Alamosa Wine Cellars 2001 Syrah was tightly textured and had nice varietal character with peppery nuances and flavors of dark berries. The Driftwood Vineyards 2002 Longhorn Red (50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Sangiovese) had berry hints, a lightly structured body and was slightly sweet. Flat Creek Estate 2003 Muscat D’Arancia shows again how this talented team can make a lovely dessert wine. The Haak Vineyards 2003 Blanc du Bois is another delicious sweet wine. This one is made from a hybrid grape in a style that retains floral and fruit aromas with residual sugar (3 1/2%) that classifies it Semi-Sweet. Pheasant Ridge Winery 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon has aged well with lovely stone fruit aromas, chewy tannins and good acidity. Pleasant Hill Winery 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon was crisp with tart cherry fruit and a light body—pair with pasta. Texas Hills Vineyards 2002 Tre Paesano reflected the mineral qualities of the soil and showed a dry crispness with earthy features.
I missed Saturday’s Texas wine tasting because Gordon Elliott was interviewing me for the Fine Living Network cable television program "Simply Wine with Andrea Immer." It’s nice that Texas wines will be featured on this national show. The program was taped at the TDS Exotic Game Ranch in Creedmoor. We talked about Texas wine history and the progress of the industry. I was fascinated by the TDS facility and the "Home on the Range" event held there included a day of various activities featuring wine tastings, barbecue-pit masters in competition, skeet shooting, and dancing to Jimmy LaFave.
The Sunday Fair at the Salt Lick Pavilion is always the best attended Festival event. This year 4,000 came to eat, drink, listen to music and dance from noon to 4:00 P.M. A crowd pleaser featured authentic chuck wagons circled to showcase traditional Texas ranch cooking. Chefs Grady Spears, Tom Perini, Robert McGrath and Matt Martinez worked their own brand of magic on beef products. Robert McGrath served the biggest hunks of beef ribs I think I’ve ever seen and Grady Spears was topping his famous chicken fried steak with cream gravy. First Texas Olive Oil Company of Wimberley drew a lot of interest. Producers have been trying to grow olives in Texas for more than a decade and it is finally paying off. Texas Jersey Cheese and Paula Lambert’s cheeses from Mozzarello Company were once again favorites. Peppers, salsa, pizzas, beef, baked goods and various grocers served the many curious tasters continuously.
Joining 17 other Texas wineries, Lost Creek Vineyard made its debut Festival appearance pouring its medal-winning first releases of White Swan (Blanc de Bois) and its Merlot. Ed Manigold poured the popular Spicewood Bluebonnet Blush while Richard Becker opened a bottle of his new Becker Vineyards Chardonnay, completely dry with rich, velvety and layered flavors. Chad Auler showcased the new Fall Creek Vineyards Chenin Blanc, a crisp, refreshing, floral and fruit-forward wine, and Paul Bonarrigo and I shared a glass of Messina Hof’s multi-award winning Paulo—a Cabernet Sauvignon blend that’s stunning! The full list Texas wine presenters is below. Between taking photographs, chatting with guests and getting around to see the participants I just couldn't get to taste all the wines. Next year!
Alamosa Wine Cellars - 2001 Sangiovese and 2001 El Guapo
Becker Vineyards - 2002 Chardonnay and 2002 Claret
Bell Mountain Vineyards - Chardonnay and Merlot
Cap*Rock Winery - Blush Royale and Palo Duro Canyon White
Driftwood Vineyards - Longhorn Red and Armadillo Red
Dry Comal Creek Vineyards - French Colombard and Comal Red III
Fall Creek Vineyards - Chenin Blanc and Granite Reserve
Flat Creek Estate - Sangiovese, Travis Peak Orange Muscat and Travis Peak Due Ami
Haak Vineyards - 2003 Blanc du Bois and 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Lost Creek Vineyard - Merlot and White Swan Blanc du Bois
Messina Hof - Private Reserve Merlot 2001 and Pinot Grigio 2003
Peregrine Hill - Chardonnay and Shiraz
Pheasant Ridge - 2002 Dry Chenin Blanc, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1999 & 2000 Pinot Noir
Spicewood Vineyards - 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, 2001 Merlot and Bluebonnet Blush
Texas Hills Vineyards - Due and Sangiovese
Winemaker Peter
Fraser of Yangarra Estate Vineyard visits Sarah Jane's home.
Yangarra Estate rests below the Mount Lofty Ranges
that surround McLaren Vale wine region. Bordered by the Gulf of
St. Vincent and these ranges, McLaren Vale is known for the warm
climate and varied soils that produce some of Australia's most famous
wines. Yangarra Estate consists of 240 acres of vines; the
remainder of the property (180 acres) is natural vegetation,
pastures, waterways and dams. "It is one of the most
beautiful properties to be found in the region," Winemaker Peter
Fraser says. My tasters and I enjoyed his delicious wines and
good company when he was featured in my home June3, 2004.
"Located on the property is our 60-year-old, dry-grown Grenache
vines. They're some of the oldest remaining vines in the region, and
without any irrigated water they grow in 60 million year old sands,
nicknamed 'The Beach.' Grenache and Shiraz are the major
varieties on our Yangarra Estate. We produce wines of intensity
and enormous fruit flavor and structure. We have the strong belief
that McLaren Vale (especially the cooler foothills) produces some of
the best examples of these varieties in Australia. With only
six other Australian wines making it into the famous 2003 Wine
Spectator Top 100, we were very proud to have our 2001 McLaren
Vale Shiraz come in at number 36. Yangarra wines are
limited and highly allocated and most reasonably priced at under
$10.
2002 Yangarra Estate Old Vine Grenache McLaren
Vale
McLaren Vale's bounteous basin is actually the weathered
remnant of a long-gone mountain range, revered for the
earthy
wholesomeness. The rosy polished sheen of this
Grenache, its blackberry and spicebox bouquet and long, intense
finish, perfectly show what these ancient sands produce.
Yangarra, by the way, is Aboriginal for "from the earth."
2002 Yangarra Estate Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre
McLaren Vale
Our estate vineyards have specialized in Grenache,
Shiraz and Mourvedre for over 150 years. Combined with constant
maritime
humidity, the ancient weathered soils here feed these
varieties unusually intense, soft, and soulful flavors. The freshly
dug rose garden aroma of this blend reflects perfectly our philosophy
of minimal human intervention in both vineyard and winery, and
unwavering reverence of our unique terroir. This blend's succulent
chocolate wholesomeness gives heart to our name.
2002 Yangarra Estate Shiraz McLaren Vale
Our estate vineyard is
planted in some of the oldest soils in Australia. These ancient soils
produce wines with lifted fruit, good color and rich, soft tannins.
The opulent aromas of this Shiraz, the dark fruits of plum and black
cherries, and the perfectly finessed spice echo with history and a
solemn reverence to the soil. This steadfast respect for our unique
terroir is reflected in the name of our estate."
Everyone enjoyed Peter's good company and his delicious wines.
Very few cases are available because of limited production. But
ask for these wines as production will rise next year from 600 cases
of Grenache to 1200; Shiraz has 4200 cases and the blend has 900
cases. My students would have bought every bottle on the market
had they been available. Now that's an endorsement!!
www.yangarra.com
NEWS
KIM CRAWFORD reports New Zealand’s largest harvest ever: “New Zealand’s wine regions experienced normal and even budburst due to good carbohydrate reserves and warmer than usual spring weather. Chardonnay and pinot noir flowering had ideal conditions. Sauvignon blanc and merlot flowering happened later when it was a little cooler. This led to some berry abortion, a natural thinning. During October and November, spring and early summer rains coincided with cell division and cell elongation in most varieties, resulting in high potential berry weight, and therefore bunch weight. December and January were warmer than average and advanced the crop considerably. February arrived and summer had departed! New Zealand recorded one of the coolest Februaries on record, which bought a halt to the ripening process. This coupled with retention of malic acid, which is normally respired by the berry on warm nights, led to a later and more compressed vintage than usual. This is advantageous to areas like Gisborne, which normally require acid addition to chardonnay, but can be complicating in areas like Marlborough as it normally has good levels of natural acidity. At present, Gisborne chardonnay has been harvested and is showing layers of tropical fruit and intensity rarely seen. Thus far, I have found that it is as good a vintage as we have had from this region. The Hawkes Bay chardonnay is impressive with its weight and concentration. Merlot has been harvested in ideal condition and shows great color and fruit intensity. The wine is due to be pressed off this week, and there is excitement in the winery already as to the quality of these wines. Marlborough harvest has nearly finished, with chardonnay and pinot noir being harvested first. The chardonnays are strongly varietal and now have finished primary fermentation, awaiting malolactic fermentation. Pinot noir has also finished primary fermentation and has been pressed off, with the best parcels racked into French oak for malolactic fermentation. Early indications look promising with good natural sugars, color and aromatics. Pinot gris and riesling were harvested last week and look extremely good early in fermentation. The sauvignon blanc harvest has finished with good volumes of high quality juice. A warm March and dry April allowed the vine to naturally reduce acid levels, through respiration of malic acid, to manageable levels in the winery. I can confidently say that New Zealand is on track for our largest harvest ever, and early indications predict that this is one of the more consistent vintages for the Gisborne, Hawkes Bay and Marlborough regions. There is great varietal intensity amongst all varieties. There is a great natural acid balance in all juices and good levels of palate weight as well. Overall, in my 15+ years of winemaking here in New Zealand, I have never encountered a vintage with the varietal strength of 2004. I believe it will be a watershed year for New Zealand as it is the first year we have had good volumes of high quality wine to supply our expanding world markets.” Kim Crawford, Winemaker
HECK ESTATES Wins at 2004 PACIFIC COAST OYSTER WINE COMPETITION: Heck Estates won big at the 2004 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, where its 2002 KENWOOD Vineyards Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc and 2002 LAKE SONOMA Winery Dry Creek Valley Fumé Blanc each received a coveted "Oyster Award" as one of the 10 best West Coast wines to enjoy with oysters on the half shell. This marks the third time Kenwood's Sauvignon Blanc has been honored. Sponsored by Taylor Shellfish Farms of Shelton, Washington, the annual Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition invites West Coast wineries to submit their best "oyster wines" - typically dry, crisp white wines - for judging. The wines are tasted "blind" (with identities hidden) with plump, Kumamoto oysters in the preliminaries, with veteran judges rating each on its "bliss factor." The best wines go on to final judgings in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Seattle. Expert restaurateur, retailer, and wine and food media judges evaluate the finalists, again paired with tasty "Kumos," and cumulative scores from the three finals determine the "Oyster Award" winners. In 2004, a total of 153 wines were entered in the Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition and 21 reached the finals. For Heck Estates to have made two of the ten "Oyster Award" winners is a singular achievement. Produced in a fresh, crisp style from Sonoma County grapes, both KENWOOD Sauvignon Blanc ($11) and LAKE SONOMA Fumé Blanc ($14) provide sensational sipping with these popular shellfish.
ARTISANS & ESTATES Vineyards & Wineries (formerly Jackson Family Farms), a group of separate and independently-owned vineyards and wineries by members of the Jackson family., announced the appointment of Clay Gregory as President. Gregory replaces Don Hartford who will continue as President of Hartford Family Winery and will oversee the management of Jackson Family properties. Gregory will lead and mentor each separate winery with its distinct viticulture, winemaking, marketing, sales and financial efforts. This group of California wineries and wine brands includes: Cambria Estate Vineyards & Winery in Santa Barbara County; Hartford Family Winery, La Crema Winery, Matanzas Creek Winery, Stonestreet Winery, Vérité Estate, Anakota, Archipel and Ray’s Station in Sonoma County; Carmel Road Winery in Monterey County; and Cardinale Estate, Atalon and Lokoya in Napa Valley. In addition to the separate and independently-owned Artisans & Estates Vineyards & Wineries, the Jackson Family owns Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates and Jackson Wine Estates International which includes holdings in Australia, Chile, France and Italy.
BARTON CREEK RESORT & CLUB has been named "Best Overall Country Club" in Austin in the April edition of AVIDGOLFER.
FLORA SPRINGS celebrated the 20th year of TRILOGY , its Bordeaux-style blend, with a vertical tasting hosted Proprietor John Komes and Winemaker Ken Deis.
TEXAS HILL COUNTRY WINE & FOOD FOUNDATION hosted a luncheon at MOONSHINE to celebrate Winemaker Paul Hobbs more than 25 years in the wine business.
TIMO--going to Florida? I've heard good
things about Timo - Southeast Region: Executive chef-partner Timo's
menu spotlights Chef Andriola's flair and appreciation for the robust
flavors of Italy and the Mediterranean. Favorites include
roasted monkfish, wood-roasted half chicken and veal scallopini.
Chef Andriola has introduced entrees like black grouper on white clam
risotto, grilled rack of lamb with white bean ragout and lamb
shoulder to complement and showcase the excellent wine cellar
assembled by partner Rodrigo Martinez. Open: Lunch. Dinner,
MON-THU 11 am-10:30 pm., FRI-SAT 11 am-11 pm.,
SUN 11 am-10:30
pm.; Cuisine: Italian-Mediterranean; Reservations: Suggested; Average
Check: $60 to $80; Credit Cards: AE/DC/D/MC/V
17624 Collins Ave.,
Sunny Isles Beach, FL 33160, 305/936-1008
NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)
DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 2003 Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg $8.75: "Aromas of orange blossoms, lemon zest, ripe pear and pineapple, flavors of green apple, candied citrus, balanced acidity, serve with oysters, summer salad, as an aperitif and with Asian cuisine"
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CHALK HILL Estate Vineyards & Winery has released three new wines: 2001 Estate Vineyard Selection Pinot Gris, 2001 Estate Chardonnay, and the 1999 Estate Vineyard Selection, Adele's Vineyard Merlot. Owner's Peggy and Frederick Furth first planted the estate vineyards in 1974 and told me, "we have worked diligently to perfect the farming and production of each varietal planted here, Peggy says. "Each vintage brings its own characteristics and traits, while staying consistent with quality and style." There's a chef on the estate who works with the wine and food pairings.
CHALK HILL Estate
Vineyards & Winery 2001 Estate Vineyard Selection Pinot Gris
$43: "The 2001 vintage was exceptional. The Pinot Gris
grapes,
from a tiny vineyard in the coolest site on the Chalk
Hill Estate, became exceptionally ripe—the result of a warm
spring, a cool summer and an ideal stretch of dry weather through
harvest. Diligent care includes midseason thinning and
intricate canopy management to further concentrate the grape
intensity. Two premier Alsace clones bring delicate
floral aromas, exotic fruit character, roundness and length to
the texture. Whole-cluster
pressing followed by natural
cold settling of the juice allowed for maximum fruit expression.
Fermentation proceeded in neutral French oak barrels, yielding both
the finesse of this delicate variety and the fullness of barrel
fermentation. Sur lies ageing with bi-weekly stirring brought
layers of richness and complexity and after eleven months of ageing
in barrel, the wine was lightly fined and bottled, giving the Pinot
Gris offers aromas of jasmine, citrus blossom and peach with hints
of almond and hazelnut. The fully ripe and rich mouthfeel is
highlighted by flavors of honeydew melon, red apple and spice,
making this wine a perfect complement to many classic international
cuisines, including exotic Asian fare."
CHALK HILL Estate
Vineyards & Winery 2001 Estate Chardonnay $36: "Chalk Hill
has a diverse and maturing clone program, and many of our early
ripening Dijon clones have come into full production. These include
the widely used Dijon clones as well as French and Italian clones
and the tried
and true California selections found in our oldest
vineyard blocks. Consequently, Chalk Hill has an enormous
range of Chardonnays from which to compose a final blend. The
different clones and selections display unique aromas, flavors,
structural and textural components, giving winemaker
Bill Knuttel
the ability to craft a complete blend requiring very little
pre-bottling manipulation, as befits a great California
Chardonnay.
TRADITIONAL BURGUNDIAN production
methods included whole cluster pressing, barrel fermentation
primarily with native yeasts, weekly stirring,
natural malolactic
fermentation, and sur lies ageing. The wines were aged for nine
months in French oak, with prominent use of barrels coopered by
François Frères, Dargaud et Jaegle, Demptos and Damy.
Fining and filtering were kept to an absolute minimum. The wine
features a complex panorama of flavors, including lime, red and
yellow apple, tangerine and quince, all overlain with the minerality
that suffuses the estate’s white fruit. The wine’s creamy entry
leads to a concentrated core of sweet fruit, and its elegant length
and assertive textures guarantee excellent ageability. The
richness and weight of the wine will allow an immense range of food
pairings, from the traditional delicate fish and vegetable dishes to
more adventurous pairings with
roasted meats."
CHALK HILL Estate Vineyards & Winery 1999 Estate Vineyard Selection, Adele's Vineyard Merlot $100: " Adele's Vineyard is a gently sloped bowl opposite the winery. The soil in this four-acre block, planted in 1992, varies from clay-loam mixtures of various sorts that surround a knoll composed entirely of sandstone. Differing ripening patterns are tied to these soil variations. The knoll consistently ripens first, and these vines were harvested as a separate lot for potential inclusion into the Estate Vineyard Selection portfolio. The crop in this enclave averages only three tons to the acre, and the cool vintage conditions allow for extended hang time. The fruit maximizes color, tannin and weight, producing a Merlot in the classic style of "right bank" Bordeaux. The wine's bouquet features ripe plum, earth, black cherry and violets highlighted by anise and spicy oak, the structure is built on soft, expansive tannins, and flavors of berries, chocolate and plums mesh in a cohesive, mouth-filling finish. Try Lavender and Pepper Crusted Ahi Tuna with Blue Potato Puree or the heartier Lamb Schnitzel with Porcini Spaetzle to gain a true appreciation of the depth of the Adele's Vineyard Merlot."
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BONNY DOON's artful oeuvre-management team once again titillate our fancies. Scrivener John Locke noted that springtime and love invite pink wines and matters of the heart to the forefront. Hence, BOONY DOON has released three good companions: VIN GRIS DE CIGARE; HEART OF DARKNESS, MADIRAN; and THE HEART HAS RIESLING. "Yet love is such a complicated affair," the Scrivener reminds, "that the modern wine drinker/par amour requires a complete arsenal to meet the complex pairings in the realm of food and wine--all the culinary and amorous investigations one might encounter." So, here is the BOONY DOON answer to these little troublesome matters.
BOONY DOON 2003 Vin Gris de Cigare$11: "Rosé is a favored wine in southeast France, and this wine is a rosé in the Provençal style--with Grenache and Cinsault dominating the blend. What sets the wine apart and makes it a superb and harmonious accompaniment to a wide range of cuisines is its delicate spiciness and wonderful aromatized evocation of wild Provençal flora. Idle away a June or July lunch of gilled fish, bouillabaisse, spicy Szechwan dishes, salade Nicoise, chicken dishes or an onion tart."
BOONY DOON 2001 Heart of Darkness, Madirain, red wine $18: "This wine has real soul. The very first aromas reveal dusty rose petal, mint, and smoked meat along with the earthy granitic quality that elevates the wine beyond its expression of fruitiness and variety. There are no dead or soft spots across the palate. It goes quite well with idolatry, false gods, and red meat. Serve with cassoulets, stews, sirloins, roasted vegetables and duck."
BOONY DOON 2003 The Heart Has Riesling$15: "There's a lot of interesting chemistry in the nether ranges of pHville, and what is particularly noteworthy about Riesling, perhaps the key to its chameleon-like nature and infinite complexity is this: Riesling seems to maintain a genetic memory to All Other Fruit Esters--Asian pear, a citrus sector, Meyer lemon, tangerine. Serve with spicy anything."
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CAFARO says: "I am passionate about making elegant, balanced wines of classic proportions. My goal is to create wines that are both graceful and worthy of ageing, wines to enjoy with a friends at dinner tonight or age in your cellar for years to come. Before founding Cafaro Cellars in 1986, I made wine at several small wineries in the Napa Valley (Chappellet, Keenan, Acacia, Robert Sinskey, Oakville Ranch Vineyard and Dalla Valle) and remain a consulting winemaker today at Emilio's Terrace. Having worked in the Napa Valley for over 33 years, I learned that having control over the grapes makes a huge difference in the ultimate quality of the wines. I now have a hillside vineyard that gives me that outstanding quality. I see my winemaking as traditional in form and modern in execution. I pump the fermenting juice over the cap to extract the most from the fruit, ferment in stainless steel to control temperature and age the young wines in small French and American oak barrels for two years, followed by an additional year in the bottle prior to release. Production is limited and the wines are available only in selected states or by direct mail purchase. I love all of Joe Cafaro's wines and I'll bet you will too!
CAFARO 2000 Napa Valley Merlot $37 : "This wine spent 21 months in barrel, 95% French and 5% American (50% New) and came from several vineyards-- and is 98% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 81% Cafaro Family Vineyard, 15% Krupp, 4% Truchard, 1250 cases of 750 ml. With the 2000 vintage we take one more step to completely estate grown grapes. The 2000 Merlot is very well balanced with strong Merlot aroma of tea and herbs. The 2000 vintage is very accessible and ready to drink with a wide range of dishes. The flavors and aromas are forward and ripe without being overpowering – a wine that goes with food. There is also a touch of cedar from the oak barrels. The combination of structure, depth and richness makes this 2000 Merlot drinkable now but it could easily age if you can wait. Please enjoy our 2000 Merlot with family and friends."
CAFARO 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon $39: "This wine aged 21 Months in oak barrels--95% French and 5% American (50% New) and is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot with 80% Cafaro Family Vineyard, 15% Krupp, 5% ORV, 25% Truchard, production was 1300 cases of 750 ml. This vintage is the next big step to our goal of producing estate wines. Cafaro Family Vineyard makes up 80% of this years blend. Our grapes are hillside and give many layers of aroma and flavors; cherry, berry, chocolate and cedar. The sweet oak from new barrels adds yet another layer of aroma and flavor to the concentration of this youthful cabernet. Similar bright and deep flavors on the palate enhance the stylish elegance. The structure is accessible for enjoying with many dishes from grilled meat and fish to pasta and burgers. Please enjoy our new release with family and friends.
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Bronco Wine Company reports that year after year its wines meet consumer expectations and are recognized for their superb quality in wine competitions. The following trio recently won gold at the 2004 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Bronco had 29 wines win gold and silver medals at this year's competition, which included 2,500 wines from 565 wineries. Each award-winning wine displays all the character of its varietal. Try them!
NAPA RIDGE 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $12
MONTPELLIER 2001 Merlot, California $7
DOMAINE LAURIER 2001 Pinot Noir, Sonoma County Reserve $13
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BLACK OPAL is called ‘the gem from Down Under.’ The range of wines is one of the great success stories of the Australian wine industry. In 1996, the U. S. publication Wine and Spirits Buying Guide named Black Opal one of the International Wineries of the Year. The magazine gives this award to 'those producers who are consistently making great wines in their particular regions’. Today, Black Opal is exported to the United States, Britain, Japan, Singapore, Canada and many other countries. The wines, sourced from South Australia's fine vineyards, have won the same reputation for quality, consistency, and great value for money wherever they're sold.
BLACK OPAL 2001 Barossa Shiraz $15: ". . . intensely flavored, aromas of plum and blackberry, varietal characters of pepper and berry on the palate, soft tannins, touch of licorice and cedar oak, well balanced--enjoy with steaks, mushrooms and pepper mashed potatoes."
BLACK OPAL 2001 Barossa Cabernet Merlot $15: ". . . concentrated dark cherry/berry, plum and spice, full-bodied with varietal aromas and complex flavors that finish with a long, full and finely textured mouthfeel--pair with grilled lamb chops with roasted herb vegetables"
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KENWOOD Jack London Merlot shows how climate and soil are exactly right for this grape--one of the most unforgiving in the vineyard. The Jack London Vineyard seems to be one of those magic spots for Merlot and the 2001 KENWOOD shows just how delicious this wine can be.
KENWOOD 2001 Jack London Merlot, Sonoma Valley $24: ". . .fresh, forward cherry aromas accented by vanilla and rosemary nuances, vibrant flavors of blended blueberry and cherry with a touch of nutmeg compleity, generously fruited, silky on the palate, lush and smooth through a lingering finish"
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CHALONE WINE GROUP has introduced its new wine,
OROGENY. Consulting Winemaker Don Goldfield says, "Pinot
Noir, more than any other grape, reflects where it is grown. We pay
tribute to the land with our name. Orogeny is a geological term
that comes from Greek oro, 'mountain,' and -geny, 'birth.' It
refers to the process during which the collisions and separations of
the earth's crust form mountains. A series of orogenic episodes
in Sonoma County near the Pacific Ocean formed the mountains and
streams that created Green Valley, the unique source for our
grapes. We focus on cool-climate Pinot Noir from Green
Valley, the coldest region of the famed Russian River Valley.
Fog flows from the Pacific Coast along the Russian River and through
the Petaluma Wind Gap, converging on this small area. Our
grapes are grown on five small vineyards, each only five to ten
acres, which were selected to display the bright fruit
characteristics of classic Green Valley Pinot Noir. Their
limited size permits us to use hands-on farming techniques.
The vines are planted on ridges in Gold Ridge soils, a mix of sandy
loam over sandstone and clay. These sites provide excellent drainage,
which promotes even ripening and concentrated flavors.
The inaugural release is OROGENY 2002 Pinot Noir, $25, has
crystalline blackberry fruit and bright acidity, great intensity,
substantial tannins and bright berry and cherry fruit and chewy
tannins with nutmeg and ginger, elegance and overtones of caramel;
versatile pairings, everything from pasta to fish to smoked meats to
game birds to a good filet"
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RANCHO ZABACO has released several Zinfandels and a Sauvignon Blanc. Well known for its big, bold Zin, ZABACO produces two single-vineyard Zinfandels for the serious Zin enthusiast. Located in Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley, also known as Zin Zone, the Stefani and Chiotti Vineyards deliver superior fruit with intense tannins, great depth and complex layers--each characteristic of its distinct vineyard lots. Dancing Bull is the fun and playful side of Rancho Zabaco, offering wines that provide consumers an appealing product at reasonable costs.
RANCHO ZABACO 2001 Stefani Vineyard Zinfandel Canyon Valley $28: ". . . layers of rustic characteristics like dried cherry, dried cranberry, cassis and earth, impressive structure, chewy tannins and a long finish"
RANCHO ZABACO 2002 Chiotti Vineyard Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley $28: "From the most select lots on the ranch, this wine is a rich, ripe Zin with a soft, broad, fruit-driven mouthfeel, aromas of black cherry, licorice and spice, juicy black cherry and blueberry flavors framed by tannins, integrated ginger and vanilla, spices, pair with barbecue or gilled meats"
RANCHO ZABACO 2002 Dancing Bull Zinfandel California $10: ". . . ripe, dark fruits, blackberry and black cherry and red fruits like strawberry and raspberry, spicy notes of black pepper--pair with most anything"
RANCHO ZABACO 2003 Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc California $10: "Crisp and clean, the wine has bright grapefruit balanced by tropical fruit and hint of herbs, aromas of green apple, kiwi, lime and peach, pair with wide variety of foods."
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WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE: While the origins of what is now Wynns Coonawarra Estate go back more than a century, its present-day status dates only from the 1950s and '60s. In 1951 the famous triple-gabled winery and surrounding vineyards, which were built and planted in the 1890s and called Chateau Comaum, were bought by S. Wynn & Co, the Melbourne-based wine makers and merchants. As a wine-producing area, Coonawarra was then at its lowest ebb. There was no other buyer for Chateau Comaum and Samuel Wynn, the family patriarch and company founder, had failed in his efforts to assemble a syndicate of wine producers to spread the risk of buying the property. Wynn and his son David took on the task themselves, more out of a sense of responsibility to the industry they loved than in expectation of profit. They recognized the intrinsic quality of 'Coonawarra claret', but the market for still red table wine was tiny: in the early 1950s Australians drank fortified wines -- especially port and sherry -- almost exclusively. If it were not for their bold and courageous purchase, the winery would have become a wool shed and the vineyards a sheep run. Coonawarra may have languished for the previous 50 years, but the establishment of Wynns Coonawarra Estate signaled the area's renaissance. David Wynn, then in his mid-30s, had gradually taken control of the business as his father moved closer to retirement. He set about his daunting task in Coonawarra with clear-sightedness and determination. He was Australia's first wine producer to use the word 'Estate' to indicate that what was in the bottle came from the place named on the label.
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE 2003 Riesling $11: "Clean, concentrated fruit aromas of lemon sherbet and citrus blossom with hints of fennel, crisp structure with lime and lemon flavors, clean dry finish."
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE 2003 Chardonnay $11: "Stone fruit aromas like peach with a smoky oak background, excellent balance, harmonious, ripe citrus and stone fruit flavors, nutty undertones, crisp acidity evenly balanced and judiciously framed by oak."
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE 2002 Shiraz $12: ". . . rich spicy aromas with hints of black pepper, a medium to full body, concentrated fruits, dark berries, fresh plum, crisp acid structure with fine tannin backbone"
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon $12: "Aromas of plum and blackcurrant with mocha coffee, chocolate overtones, hints of mint, good depth and promise of evolution"
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE 2001 Shiraz Cabernet Merlot $11: "fragrant, gamey nose, fresh berries, spice, oak, upfront palate of cassis, some black pepper, softness with complexity and approachability"
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DUTTON GOLDFIELD CHARDONNAY: Warren and Gail Dutton bought their first 35 acres west of the town of Graton and planted it to French Columbard in 1964. Their first sale from that vineyard brought them $88 a ton, and a new family business was born. "In 1967, we sold their first Chardonnay harvest, and began planting more vineyards, including the Rued Vineyard--planted in 1969. Russian River Valley chardonnay grapes have a very distinctive character: bright acidity and citrus flavors with stone fruit notes. So high is the acid, in fact, that even after full malolactic fermentation, the levels are still higher than most Napa Chardonnay the day it is brought in. Each year, we make a Dutton Ranch Chardonnay that blends several Dutton Ranch vineyards into a wine that is our vision of a classic Russian River Valley Chardonnay."
DUTTON GOLDFIELD 2002 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley $30: "The warm and even 2002 harvest helped produce a wine of exceptional thickness to go along with the bright acid backbone inherent in fine Russian River Chardonnay. The wine leads with lime, pear and a hint of mango and pineapple. Creamy vanilla notes complete the rich aromatics. On the palate if offers an unctuous balance of poached pears, citrus and tropical fruits, and finishes with bright lime and fresh candied overtones. The great acid balance contributes to its versatility for food pairings, ranging from pasta salads and sautéed calamari to grilled pork chops and mild Swiss cheeses."
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BERINGER has released three lovely summer wines that will accompany most anything you put on your plate. Nicely chilled, these wines also make very nice sipping.
BERINGER 2003 Chenin Blanc $6: "Delicate, crisp melons, citrus, and pear flavors with a smooth, lush mouthfeel"
BERINGER 2003 Gewurztraminer $8: "The late start and long, cool season allowed the a nice ripening curse that the white grapes fantastic flavors. The wine captures fresh white peach, fragrant honey and has heady aromas of citrus, orange blossom, stone fruits and spice."
BERINGER 2003 Johannisberg Riesling $8: "A bright, crisp wine popping with peaches and jasmine and highlighted with hints of orange zest and baking spices."
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CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2003 Johannisberg Riesling, Sonoma County $15: "This off-dry/semi-sweet style was fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks to retain fresh, fruit forward character. It has aromas of pears and peaches with honeysuckle and rich , juicy and viscous ripe flavors of apricot, nectarines and hints of green apples backed by mineral notes and a crisp finish."
CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2003 Gewurztraminer, Sonoma County $15: "The off-dry/semi-sweet style was fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vessels. Perfume, acacia flowers and exotic spices on the nose with a rich, medium-bodied entry fills the palate with flavors of jasmine, orange zest and melon with a clean and long citrus finish."
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MATUA VALLEY's founding brothers, Bill and Ross Spence, played a major role in establishing New Zealand's reputation as an important winemaking region. They were the first vintners to match microclimate and terrior to specific varietal growing requirements and they were first to plant and produce Sauvignon Blanc--now the signature wine of New Zealand--in their homeland. Marlborough us recognized for its sauvignon blanc and Gisborne is known as New Zealand's capital for chardonnay--fragrant, soft and youthfully appealing.
MATUA VALLEY 2003 Marborough Sauvignon Blanc $11: "A bright and vibrant style of wine that exhibits ripe citrus, generous gooseberry, passionfruit and herb flowers with a touch of lime. The palate is fresh and zingy with concentrated, full flavors that linger harmoniously."
MATUA VALLEY 2003 Gisborne Chardonnay $11: "Vivid aromas of pineapple, peach and apricot together with tropical fruit, elegant palate with a harmony of fruit and subtle oak, a lingering finish."
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GLORIA FERRER has a 335-acre estate in Carneros with no less than 11 soil types and a wide variety of clones and terrain that combine with the daily fog and wind to produce exceptional Pinot Noir. "For 18 years we've studied the Carneros and its relationship to our vines," says Winemaker Bob Iantosca. "With knowledge of our terroir as a guide, the estate Pinot Noir gains complexity and consistency with each passing year."
GLORIA FERRER 2001 Carneros Pinot Noir $26: "One of our most exceptional wines to date, the 2001 Pinot Noir exhibits a range of complex aromas, graceful fruit characteristics and silken texture on the palate."
GLORIA FERRER 2000 José S. Ferrer Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros $35: Winemaker Bob Iantosca began producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 1991 to showcase the estate fruit from which the sparkling wine is crafted. Today, Gloria Ferrer is heralded as an outstanding producer of sparkling and still wines alike, with enough awards and accolades to make a winemaker very proud. Several years ago, Gloria Ferrer asked Bob Iantosca to create twelve barrels of Pinot Noir as a tribute to her husband of over 40 years. 1998 was an ideal year for the first vintage. Yields were small and the fruit was exceptional: full of depth, character and firm acidity. Subsequent vintages have continued upon the enormous success of that first vintage. To produce this wine, Bob cherry-picks from the finest Pinot Noir barrels, representing several different clones from the Carneros estate. The grapes are hand-harvested in late September and early October. Harvesting in this manner guarantees the crop (while small in size ) will be exceptional in quality with concentrated ripe, rich berries, full of depth and good acidity. In general, 500 to 950 cases of the José S. Ferrer Estate Reserve Pinot Noir are produced in a given year. This limited-release wine is available through the Tasting Room and the website. www.gloriaferrer.com
GLORIA FERRER 2000 Carneros Pinot Noir, Rust Rock Terrace Vineyard $40: "The fruit from this vineyard is distinctive and delicious year after year, prompting us to create a single-lot bottling that reflects this unique terroir. Comprised of rocky, volcanic soils situated on the highest terraces of our Circle Bar Ranch Vineyard, Rust Rock Terrace yields wines with elegant red fruit characteristics. Aromas of ripe raspberry and pomegranate with toast and clove notes, a palate marked by elegant texture, Bing cherry and roasted oak; serve with roast chicken, grilled salmon, duck breast and wild mushroom ravioli."
GLORIA FERRER 2000 Carneros Pinot Noir, Gravel Knob Vineyard $40: "This wine is another single-lot bottling for the same reasons mentioned above. It opens with sweet cherry and exotic Indian spice aromas, background notes of bitter orange and earthiness, and on the palate one finds wild cherry, cocoa and tea flavors enveloped in an expansive, lush texture and long finish; serve with hearty fare, rack of lamb, pork loin or sweetbreads."
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TALBOTT Vineyards family of wines, with the emphasis on family, includes, high standards, hard work and commitment. The family began with a tie company in Carmel in the 1950s--Robert sold the hand-crafted ties Audrey made. Their hard work was rewarded. The Talbotts became interested in fine wines through business travel to Europe. They dreamed of making their own Chardonnay one day, influenced by Burgundian techniques. In 1982, son Robb Talbott and his wife Cynthia planted the 24-acre Diamond T, founding their wine estate. By 1989 the Talbotts had produced several successful vintages. More acres were purchased, and a winemaking facility was designed. More vineyards were added in 1994 when Robb purchased the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, an acquisition that gave greater control over the quality of the grapes and managing their vineyards. Sleepy Hollow ownership made the Talbott family the county's largest family grower. From the point of the Sleepy Hollow purchase onward, the fruit for all wines produced by Robert Talbott has come exclusively from the Talbott estate vineyards. The first Talbott Pinot Noir was released in 1994. Several wine names reflect family members: Talbott's Cuvee Cynthia; Case Pinot Noir, named after Robb and Cynthia's oldest daughter, Sarah Case; Logan Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are named after Robb and Cynthia's son, Robert Logan, and the Kali Hart Vineyard Chardonnay, named after Robb and Cynthia's youngest daughter, Kali Hart. The total production remains relatively small; near 24,000 cases per year divided among all seven labels. "Our standards of excellence at Robert Talbott Vineyards have remained high with adherence to small lots, hands on methods, and traditional Burgundian approaches," Robb says. "The estate vineyards are maintained with the same quality-driven discipline we respect at the winery. And because we only uses a fraction of our fruit, the remaining grapes are highly sought after by other prestigious wineries."
LOGAN 2002 Chardonnay, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard $18: "This wine is a stylistic alternative to Talbott Chardonnay intended to showcase distinct blocks of Sleepy Hollow. The result is an intensely flavored wine that is fruit-forward yet complex and very food friendly. It has pear mineral, wet stone notes and peach blossom with hints of yeastiness, some butterscotch and vanilla."
LOGAN 2000 Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard $18: ". . . aromas of tart cherry, cola, vanilla, hint terroir, palate of ripe strawberry, raspberry, plum, cola nut and cedar with a strong thread of acidity, with balance and integration"
KALI HART 2002 Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands $13.50: ". . . youthful, vibrant, casual, with restrained oak and high acid, nose of pineapple, guava, some banana, shows off stainless steel lineage and neutral oak, sur lees aging"
TALBOTT Vineyards 2000 Diamond T Estate Chardonnay $65; "The quintessential Talbott estate wine, planted with the Corton-Charlemagne chardonnay clone in 1982, this 24-acre, tightly spaced vineyard grows in an almost soil-free mixture of shale and granite on a 1,200-foot mountaintop eight miles from Carmel Bay. Cool ocean fog moderates the climate and extends the growing season with extremely small crop yields--less than one ton per acre. These grapes are intensely flavored with astounding concentration. Light press to French oak barrels; inoculated with cultured yeast in barrel; barrel-fermented; barrel-aged 18 months sur lees, stirred twice a month; bottle aged 24 months prior to release. A nose of ripe tropical fruits, peach and nectarine, slight nuttiness, mineral character, on the palate the wine is soft, luscious and full mouthfeel with concentrated flavors of pear, papaya and lemon with steely finish."
TALBOTT Vineyards 2001 Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay $42: "This wine is made from the oldest blocks in the vineyard--31 years as of this crush. The aromas are ripe citrus, banana, hazelnut, rich yeastiness and some tropical fruit notes and mineral character. The palate is soft but full with concentrated tangerine, pear, and citrus acid. The finish expresses French oak accents with hints of mineral, lemon and a backbone of acidity."
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VALLEY OF THE MOON 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma $20: "This wine illustrates how winemaking, vintage and blending work together to achieve natural structure and elegance. No one element dominates. It displays intense, complex aromas of cassis, cedar, blueberry and smoke--accented by sweet oak--with silky tannins and a long finish."
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NAPA RIDGE WINERY Winemaker Bob Stashak believes one of the strengths of NAPA RIDGE is the ability to source from diverse vineyards throughout California. "When I make wine, I look to winegrowing regions for the ideal grape varietal I want to use," he says. "Because of our extensive, quality vineyards and long-term sourcing relationships, we continue to release wines of optimum quality at a fair price.
NAPA RIDGE 2001 Central Coast Pinot Noir $10: ". . . flavors of black cherry, raspberries and plum, underlying complexity, hints of cedar, silky tannins"
NAPA RIDGE 2002 Coastal Vines Merlot $10: ". . . fruit flavors of plum, boysenberry and strawberry, gracious tannins and vanilla overtones"
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PEPI: Pepi Winery is an innovator and pioneer in the quality production of Italian varietals in California. We are well-known for crafting the quintessential California Sangiovese, stellar Sauvignon Blanc, and crisp Pinot Grigio. Latest news: " No Tools Needed Cutting Edge Wines Deserve Cutting Edge Closures" With a twist of an elegant new screw cap, Pepi Winery will make one giant leap for simplicity and ease, sending the traditional corkscrew straight to the dustbin of contraption history. Beginning this month, the entire lineup of Pepi wines — including the popular Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese — make a radical statement about the way premium wine is opened and presented. Added to the popular wine portfolio will be a Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, all featuring sleek new Stelvin® screw caps.
PEPI 2003 Pinot Grigio, Oregon $11: "This wine is native to the wine growing regions of northeastern Italy. A cousin to Pinot Noir, this grape has a natural tint of gray or off-red, thus the name Pinot Grigio or Gris (gray). We prefer the cooler growing regions for this grape and have found the Oregon terroir provides the desired balance of flavors and crisp acid in the finished wine to match with a wide range of foods."
PEPI 2003 Sauvignon Blanc, California $11: "Pepi is a pioneer winery for Sauvignon Blanc in the Napa Valley. This signature wine for spontaneous, every-day celebration and bistro culture, Pepi Sauvignon Blanc offers crisp, lively acidity which drives through to the clean, zingy finish. Bright fruity and refreshing - everything you want in a dinner wine."
PEPI 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $8: "Concentrated with spicy notes, clove, black cherry, toffee and earth, leathery wrap and slightly dusty nose and a palate of licorice, plum, cassis, creamy chocolate, chalky tannins and core of acidity."
PEPI 2002 Merlot, California $8: "Power packed yet elegant, compact structure and big, forward fruit, sweet aromas of blackberry, cherry and tobac, flavors of chocolate, berries, Graham cracker and oak spices."
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CASTELLO DI GABBIANO 2003 Pinot Grigio, Italy $10: "Floral notes with nuances of pear and honeydew melon are on the nose. Citrus flavors are crisp on the palate, along with complex flavors of green apple and faint melon, lively and well-structured, a harmonious balance of fruit and acid, light bodied with a long finish that reveals hints of citrus and almonds."
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GEYSER PEAK WINERY: "We believe in the unique expression of each vineyard" is a quote that explains the philosophy behind the Block Collection of wines. Introduced in 2000, The Block Collection wines are an expression of the unique growing conditions that exist within a handful of vineyards that consistently produce outstanding wines. Each Block Wine reflects the terroir-driven qualities of a unique site within the vineyard. They are made in miniscule quantities with minimal intervention so the distinctiveness of each site is revealed.
GEYSER PEAK WINERY
2003 Block Collection Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, River
Road Ranch $19: "The purity and vibrancy of this wine’s fruit
character are immediately apparent in its aromas, in which lifted
lemon and lime citrus fairly jump out of the glass. The small
portion of barrel fermentation adds a textured roundness to the
mid-palate, which is balanced by bright, lively acidity on the
finish. Citrus flavors carry the wine at every
stage, and are
marked by a lingering, lemon peel intensity. The quintessential
summer apéritif, this wine also pairs beautifully with
oysters, fresh chèvre and seviche.
GEYSER PEAK WINERY 2003 Block Collection Viognier, Dry Creek Valley, Preston Vineyard $19: "An array of honeysuckle, rose and pear aromas with hints of jasmine and oak complexity, the wine has a finely balanced palate, medium body, natural acidity with fruit and flora character and complements any shellfish or Pacific Rim food."
GEYSER PEAK WINERY 1999 Block Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, Vallerga Vineyard, Napa Valley $36: "This wine was produced by rotary fermentation, barrel fermentation and maturation in small oak barrels (50% American oak, 50% French oak 30% new; 70% one- and two-and three year old oak) to give this wine outstanding quality and complexity. Only 470 cases were produced. "This wine’s concentration and depth is first hinted at in its totally opaque color, a deep, dark red with a bright, crimson edge. The nose is deep and concentrated, dominated by ripe black cherry fruit and a classic note of mint. On the palate, dark chocolate and black fruit are supported by a backbone of structured tannin. Two years of bottle age have rounded out the wine’s tannins and led to a wonderfully integrated marriage of vibrant fruit and fine-grained tannin. Due to the limited handling, this wine may develop a small amount of sediment over time. Serve with Black Olive Tapenade Crostini, Fabulous Flank Steak, Grilled New York Steaks with Cabernet Reduction Sauce, Pork Chops a La Piacenza, Rack of Lamb with Red Wine Jus, Red Wine Braised Oxtail."
GEYSER PEAK WINERY Reserve wines:
Crafted from the finest vineyard sources, the Reserves represent the
pinnacle of winemaking at Geyser Peak Winery. Superlative grapes are
transformed into the seductive and boldly expressive Reserve wines,
a process that commences with a rigorous selection in the vineyard
and continues through fermentation, blending, and aging. Geyser Peak
Reserves are noted for their depth of character and complexity and
are enjoyed by enophiles the world over." GEYSER
PEAK WINERY 2000 Reserve Merlot, Alexander Valley $39, shows its
established an enviable reputation of producing richly textured
merlots. The 2000 vintage carries the Alexander Valley appellation
and follows that tradition. GEYSER PEAK WINERY 1999 Reserve
Shiraz, Sonoma County $45, is a big, rich style of Shiraz with deep,
inky crimson color. A complex nose displays spicy elements of
white pepper and anise, with raspberry fruit characters and sweet
cedary oak. The palate is beautifully crafted with the oak and
tannin seamlessly integrated into the fruit and spice elements. The
finish is long and supple. This wine will pair wonderfully with
hearty beef and lamb dishes. Patience
will be rewarded with an
added dimension of complexity by careful cellaring over the next
five to eight years. Also pair with Crabmeat Stuffed Shrimp,
Mussels Romesco, Quick Black Bean Soup, Red Wine Ribs (recipes on
Geyser Peak web site) www.geyserpeakwinery.com
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KING ESTATE's mission is to produce varietal wines
of consistently exceptional quality through meticulous fruit
selection, impeccable winemaking
practices, and judicious
blending. Wine production at King Estate focuses on three main
varieties, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay, and features the
small lot, hands-on winemaking techniques essential to produce the
finest wines. When growing conditions are ideal, King
Estate has been known to produce a Cabernet Sauvignon and old vine
Zinfandel.
KING ESTATE 2001 Pinot Noir, Oregon $22: ". . . aromas of cherry, raspberry, strawberry and blueberry with hints of dried flowers, light oak spices and mushrooms on the nose, flavors of cherry pie blueberry and oak spice, a mid-palate that offers nice round tannins and a long finish"
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