The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  63rd Edition
May 1, 2004



TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH: Varietals: Mixed (select vintage available; prices vary store to store;  $ Best Buy

 


 

JOIN SARAH JANE in ALASKA for FISHING and WINE PAIRING: Driftwood Lodge near Cordova promises excellent silver salmon fishing.  In late August, I'll present daily wine programs, including delicious pairings for the days catch.  If you're a fisherman who loves catching fish, delicious food and wines in nature's spectacular beauty --this trip is for you, $3800 per person plus travel.  Please contact me sarajane@ONR.com or 512/474-1889.

WINERY OF THE MONTH: SHAFER CELEBRATES 25TH ANNIVERSARY:   SHAFER Napa Valley wines owners John and Doug Shafer are celebrating their 25th anniversary in the Napa wine business.  They  started with SHAFER's 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon "and a lot of worry," Doug says.  "Dad was very nervous because here it was our first harvest and we couldn't get a picking crew in time.  I remember the sugar levels were rising, the ripeness was pushing out farther and farther--who knew where such a thing would lead?"  By the 1990s, conventional wisdom had done a reversal and sided with the idea of hang time--waiting until the fruit reached maximum ripeness in order to fully express varietal character and to achieve concentration of color and flavor.  After 25 years we've learned a lot about this grape--where it grows best, how to blend, how to barrel age.  Mostly it's knowing when to stay out of the way and let the wine develop the way it wants,"  Doug says.  SHAFER 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon , Napa Valley $52: " The 2001 growing season was one that grapes love — uneventful to the point of being thoroughly forgettable.  Rain clouds threatened as harvest neared, but we took a gamble and left the fruit on the vine to reach bolder, more mature flavors and the payoff is in the bottle.  The blend is 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Merlot.   We are very pleased with the hillside and ridgeline fruit coming from our youthful estate vineyards in Oak Knoll. Oak Knoll only received appellation status a couple of years ago and its potential has yet to be fully discovered.  Anyone looking for something new in Napa Valley should start here along the same dry, barren Southeastern corridor that runs in a direct line from our property in Stags Leap District.  Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon is an elegant, silky wine with soft tannins and abundant fruit that is approachable when young, yet capable of aging gracefully.  From the first vintage, it has consistently reflected the Shafer style and commitment to quality.  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc, it is aged for approximately 18 months in French and American oak barrels.  "Cabernet is the grape that has earned Napa Valley its international reputation for quality, and for me, it's one of the most fun wines to make because of the exceptional vineyards I get to work  with and the chance to see, year in and year out, how terroir makes its mark on Cabernet." -- Elias Fernandez, SHAFER Vineyards   

    About the SHAFER Vineyards RED SHOULDER RANCH Chardonnay, Doug says "Some wines are born with flavor, some achieve flavor and some have flavor thrust upon them.  In the case of our RED SHOULDER RANCH Chardonnay, the flavors in your glass emerge out of the various genetic clones that populate the vineyard."  The vineyard was planted in 1990 to five different clones selected specifically for their small clusters, low yields and distinctive flavors.  "Anyone who smells banana, for example, is not dreaming," Doug says.  "The Robert Long clone offers that flavor in abundance.  It comes from a Muscat-like clone that has an exotic sweetness.  Other clones give other aromas and flavors.  One has a blend of mineral qualities with tropical fruits like pineapple and papaya."  Doug tells me that the Red Shoulder Chardonnay is not a lean wine: "Everything thing this vineyard gives us is big and bold.  We need the natural malic acid, with its apple-like crispness, to provide backbone for the fatness of the wine.  Flavor and mouthfeel are both balanced and intensified by fermenting in barrel with wild, vineyard yeasts, and, we forego malolactic." 

  SHAFER Vineyards FIREBREAK earned its name authentically.  After a huge wildfire in 1981 got too close for comfort,  John Shafer planted a vineyard near his house to create a natural firebreak.  Part of the knoll was planted to sangiovese and a small amount to cabernet sauvignon grapes and the wine FIREBREAK was born.  Today the wine is a blend of more than 90% Sangiovese and small amount of Cab.  "We love the priginal knoll next to Dad's house," Doug says,  "great southwestern exposure with soils as lean and rocky as can be.  We had to use a jackhammer to open planting holes for the vines.  As of 1997, FIREBREAK popularity meant we had to grow more of it, and we found a twin knoll to Dad's site by the house a few miles away on our property.  We'd held off on planting anything there because the site was so barren.  But the worst sites make the best wine.  We named the new vineyard School Bus because there's an old purple and yellow school bus that retired at the edge of the property."     

SHAFER Vineyards is a 32,000-case winery in Napa Valley's Stags Leap District (SLD) managed by the father and son team of John and Doug Shafer.  They own and farm 200 acres of vineyards, the sources for SHAFER'S Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sangiovese an Syrah.  Throughout 2004 the winery is celebrating SHAFER's 25th anniversary: www.shafervineyards.com

NEWS

ROSCAR Chocolates in Bastrop, Texas represent delectable and beautiful chocolates of the finest quality.  Treat yourself to the best.  Available in Austin at Breed's.  Contact: Chef Frans Hendriks, 569 Hwy 71 East, Bastrop, TX 78602,  512/303-1500,   www.roscar.com

SWEET VENUS DELIGHTS owner Chef Achim Thiemermann makes the best, succulent, coconut  macaroons I've ever eaten--and I love coconut.  Join him at West 6th Street Artist's Market on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00am to 6:00pm (across from Katz's Deli) and at the Westlake Farmer's Market on Saturdays 10:00am to 1:00pm.  Contact "Chef Keem" at 512/ 442-6083, chefkeem@io.com  Chef cooks at Driftwood Lodge in Alaska, a fisherman's dream place for catching huge silver salmon and letting chef prepare them for you--or take them home flash frozen at the lodge.  I'll join chef with my wine programs in Alaska August 14-21 and  August 28 through September 4, 2004 ($3800 per person plus travel) for wine tastings and food pairings along with the fishing and wild game watching and so forth.  Your reservation reserves your place.  Information, please contact: sarajane@ONR.com and see www.alaskaexpedition.com 

RATHER SWEET BAKERY owner Chef Rebecca Rather (formerly of Bread Alone in Austin) opened her bakery in Fredericksburg three years ago.  Go for a bowl of  fresh soup and a sandwich on her made daily bread followed by as many delicious cookies as you can tolerate (open Monday-Saturday 8am to 5pm; lunch 11am-2pm).   On Friday and Saturday evenings the place is ARRIBA FOOD & WINE and serves a full dinner.  Contact: 830/990-0498

VÉRITÉ:  The French Ministry of Agriculture named Vérité's Pierre Seillan a Chevalier of the Ordre du Mérite Agricole, recognizing his service to agriculture.   At Vérité, Seillan transposed the Old World winemaking fundamentals onto a New World landscape,  producing Bordeaux-style wines expressive of their California origins.  Seillan  makes wine all year long by nurturing the mountain vineyards with a vision towards blending.   Owners Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke convinced the Frenchman to join them in a new California venture where they created Vérité.   Seillan freely blends between varietals and appellations.    "I am flattered that the French government recognizes French expatriates," said Seillan.  "This award shows their support of New World wines."   Vérité red wines comes from the  finest mountain vineyards throughout Sonoma County. 

FLORIDA TOMATOES: April is Florida Tomato Month--a time to enjoy the peak of the growing season.  They are low-calorie, low-sodium, a good source of fiber and high in vitamins A and C.  Storage: Tomatoes ripen to a juicy red on their own when stored at room temperature. Refrigeration kills flavor in fresh tomatoes.  (Please see recipes below) www.floridatomatoess.org

WINE INSTITUTE Newsletter reported California wine grape crush down 5% (2.94 million tons in 2003), according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture.  Red grapes crushed were at 1.64 million tons.   In addition, industry experts in Sacramento pointed to the thousands of vine acres removed in recent years, though some was made up by new bearing acreage.  "Vineyard removals, sales growth in both the U.S. and export markets and a relatively light crop are all helping to bring the excess inventories back into line," said Bill Turrentine of Turrentine  Wine Brokerage.  "The California wine business is moving into a much healthier supply-demand balance."

MESSINA HOF wins big at the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo International Wine Competition.   It  included more than 870 wines from 200-plus wineries across Texas, the United States and the world.  The winners were announced and MESSINA HOF was awarded 11 awards out of 91: The most awarded winery in the competition!  Also, at auction the Paulo sold for $17,000.  Merrill and Paul and still celebrating.
TOP TEXAS WINE 
Grand Champion: Paulo 2001
Champions
Muscat Canelli, Papa Paulo Port,
Angel-Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling,
White Zinfandel, Pinot Grigio
Reserve Champions
Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewurztraminer
The winning wines were sold March 4th in special edition, oversized bottles in the first-ever Houston Livestock and Rodeo Wine Auction.
*  Total amount raised at the Wine auction was $312,000. 
*  Texas Wine represented $63,000 of the net proceeds
* Messina Hof contributing 59% of the Texas Wine contribution at $37,100!
Messina Hof Highlights:  Messina Hof Paulo 2001 sold for $17,000!
Messina Hof Muscat Canelli 2003 went for $2,200!

FALL CREEK VINEYARDS received awards at the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo International Wine Competition: Reserve Champion, 1999  Meritus; Champion, 2002 Chardonnay, and Champion, 2003 Chenin Blanc.

U.S. WINE IMPORTS from France, Italy and Australia accounted for 83 percent of the $2.15 billion of still table wine imported in the first 10 months of 2003, according to the National Association of Beverage Importers.  In Australia, wineries cut their average export price to $4.43 ($3.29 U.S.) per liter in October from $4.80 a year earlier, Australian Bureau of Statistics.   The producers hope the cut in Australian wineries' margins will maintain their market position.  French and Italian producers--less dependent on U.S. markets, are holding steady, so those wine prices will probably rise 10 to 15%.

GRAND TETON LODGE COMPANY has 1,000 SUMMER POSITIONS AVAILABLE at GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK: As operator of lodging, dining, activities and other concessions in the park, Grand Teton Lodge Company (GTLC) offers the opportunity for summer employment. The jobs include lodging, retail, maintenance, food service, campground management, housekeeping, human resources, interpretation, laundry, marina and transportation--offered May through October.     Prospective employees call 307-543-3100 or go to www.gtlc.com and follow the employment link.    YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  HIRING SEASONAL EMPLOYEES: As the operator of lodging, restaurants, gifts shops and activities in Yellowstone, Xanterra Parks & Resorts is hiring more than 3,000 seasonal employees. Jobs include areas of lodging, maintenance, food service, campground management, accounting, housekeeping, human resources, interpretation, laundry, marina, entertainment, reservations, retail, security, transportation and others.  Workers need only a good attitude, willingness to work hard and a little schedule flexibility.  While the company needs employees for the traditional June-through-August summer season, jobs are available to work the entire season, May through October.   To learn about employment or a job application, call 1-307-344-5324 or visit www.yellowstonejobs.com or fax 1-307-344-5441 or email  ynpjobs@xanterra.com.  Xanterra Parks & Resorts is committed to maintaining a drug-free environment.

"PERSONAL WILDLIFE ED-VENTURES" Introduced in YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK: Yellowstone Association Institute is offering private excursions to help visitors better see and understand park wildlife.  Available May through August, tours usually begin in Gardiner or Mammoth and go to the Lamar Valley in the northern section of park.  The dawn or dusk trips take advantage of the best times for wildlife viewing.  Professional wildlife biologists, intimately familiar with daily activity of park wildlife, will lead the programs designed for small groups--no larger than 10.   Cost
includes instruction, use of high-powered spotting scopes and in-park transportation, a flat rate of $350 for up to 10 people ($340 for members of the Yellowstone Association).  Advanced reservations required, call 307-344-2294. For more information, www.YellowstoneAssociation.org.

SEQUOIA GROVE Offers Consumers the Ultimate Insider's Tour as a Reward: Discover the Wonders of Napa Valley: Here's your opportunity to express what you want to see in Napa Valley.  Sequoia Grove, producer of award-winning Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, will reward the most creative essay writer—in 100 words or less—who will win Sequoia Grove’s Ultimate Insider’s Tour of Napa Valley.   Want to see the natural beauty of California’s wine country, uncover the secrets of world-class winemaking, or be pampered by luxury and gourmet dining?   Then enter the Sequoia Grove’s essay contest, running from March 15, 2004 to July 15, 2004.  Winning will be based on participants’ answers to the question, "What would you hope to discover on the Ultimate Insider’s Tour of Napa Valley?" To enter, participants may log on to www.sequoiagrove.com/essaycontest

PEPI  Has Introduced a Wine Makeover: HIP, FRESH & NOW IN SCREW CAP BOTTLES: Napa Valley's innovative and style-savvy PEPI
winery is poised for a new twist--the imminently useful screw cap, which gives Pepi Winery one giant leap for simplicity and ease, sending the traditional corkscrew straight to the dustbin of contraption history.   www.pepi.com.  Please see below  

R. H. PHILLIPS GOES TWIST:  The switch concerns the entire line of wines produced under its eponymous R. H. Phillips label to screw caps.  In May 2004, 300,000 cases of new vintage Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz will be bottled with screw caps in an entirely new package for a June 2004 release.  This pledge, which represents 18 million dollars in sales revenue, is the biggest commitment to screw caps in the United States thus far.   Please visit: http://www.rhphillips-hogue.com/ to view the new R. H. Phillips packaging.  The R H. Phillips line carries a suggested retail price of $9.00.    Founded by John, Karl and Lane Giguiere in 1981, R.H. Phillips produced its first vintage from ten planted acres in 1983.  R.H. Phillips is the sole producer in the Dunnigan Hills American Viticultural Area, which is located in Northwestern Yolo County, 85 miles northwest of San Francisco.  The winery draws from nearly 1,700 estate acres and produces 700,000 cases.  The winemaking team, led by Barry Bergman, produces four lines: R.H. Phillips value-priced, classic varieties; Toasted Head, which showcases the winery’s best fruit and is known for its Chardonnay; EXP, which focuses on Mediterranean varieties Syrah, Tempranillo, and Viognier; and Kempton Clark, which offers Petite Sirah and Zinfandel.

THE WINE SOCIETY of TEXAS announced March 2004 Top Wine Award for its Texas' Best Wine Competition; Congratulations goes to LightCatcher Winery for its Merlot, Newsom Vineyard 2002. This wine also was the winner of the Best Single Vineyard Designated Wine and Best Red Wine in this year's competition.    Newsom Vineyards is in the Texas High Plains.   LightCatcher Winery is owned by Caris and Terry Turpen,  Fort Worth, Texas.  Newsom Vineyard is owned by Dale Newsom.  LightCatcher Winery, a relatively "new face" on the Texas wine scene, joins previous winners of the Society's  leadership award in making quality Texas wines: Becker Vineyards Cabernet-Syrah (2002) and Messina Hof Winery Merlot Private Reserve (2003).
Additionally, this year's Top Ten Tasting and Competition held April 2, 2004 at the SAVEUR Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival in Austin,  attracted over 200 attendees, who voted the top ten Texas wines:
Val Verde Winery, Merlot 2001
Homestead Winery Bodega de Mitchell, Cream Sherry NV
Messina Hof Winery & Resort, Johannisberg Riesling 2003
Becker Vineyards, Cabernet Syrah 2002
Kiepersol Estates, Texas Syrah 2001
Messina Hof Winery & Resort, Cabernet Sauvignon Private Res. 2001
Haak Vineyards & Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon - Reddy Vineyards 2002
Light Catcher Winery, Merlot - Newsom Vineyard 2002
Sister Creek Vineyards, Muscat Canelli 2002
Barking Rocks Cabernet Sauvignon, Newsom Vineyard 2002

OLD FAITHFUL INN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK CELEBRATES 100TH ANNIVERSARY DURING 2004 SUMMER SEASON
Xanterra Parks & Resorts will host "Heritage Days" events June 19-20 and August 28-29,  a free three-day event featuring historical programs and displays. Heritage Days is open to the public and will be a celebration of the cultural heritage of Yellowstone and will include special tours of the area and the Old Faithful Inn, historic and artistic presentations, and special interpretive exhibits provided by several local museums and organizations. 
 "Parkitecture," Elements of the Old Faithful Inn design have influenced other parks and vacation destinations across the country: the Old Faithful Lodge; the Roosevelt Lodge in the northeast quadrant of the park; the Wilderness Lodge in Walt Disney World and the Blue Sky Grill, a restaurant in Denver's Pepsi Center.  Reservations at Yellowstone: (1) 307-344-7311 or visit the site www.TravelYellowstone.com.

SCHOLARSHIP APPLICATION: The Wine Society of Texas (WST) announced a Scholarship Grant Program that provides up to $5,000 in assistance for the education, internship or field study of winemaking and viticulture in Texas.  For information, please see www.winesocietyoftexas.org. Contact: Mr. Doug Scheiding: 877-WST-WINE (978-9463)


 

NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

MICHEL SCHLUMBERGER Wine Estate is in Wine Creek Canyon, adjacent to Dry Creek Valley.  About a mile away from the winery, Bradford Mountain rises above the northwest half of the Valley.   MICHEL SCHLUMBERGER farms 20 acres of prime mountaintop vineyard owned by Jacques and Barbara Schlumberger.   Wine Creek flows down Bradford's wild ravines, passing the terraced upland vineyards and through the rolling benchland vineyard that surround the winery.  All in all, the estate has just over 100 acres of vines.  But the largest parcel is only four and a half acres, and the smallest is well under one acre.  Here, tucked away from the mainstream, you find artisan vineyard work and winemaking at its finest.  Winemaker Fred Payne has been crafting the wines since 1989.  He upgraded the equipment and replanted the majority of vineyards.  "Our vineyards re stitched across rolling foothills, benchlands, knolls and hillsides, and the low-profiled winery rests comfortably in these surroundings.  In the red volcanic soils of a terraced upland vineyard grow our clone 6 plantings: the clone 6 signature is rich varietal spice and earthy mineral with lavish mouth-filling fruitiness, clarity and elegance.  At the end of the day, we wish to be known for two important things: as good stewards of the land, and as makers of wines beautifully expressive of a place."

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ST. CLEMENT 2001 Merlot, Napa Valley $28: "Dense ruby red, this wine explodes with fruit aromas of ripe black plum and black cherry together with hints of coffee and vanilla, plus, flavors of candied violets, cedar and sweet tabac--a supple wine with velvety tannins and a long complex finish of spice and black fruit."

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COASTAL RIDGE 2002 Chardonnay, California $7: "Our Chardonnay is complete with varietal and fruit nuances.  Apple, pear and pineapple are a few of the many complexities in this wine.  The finish is soft and round on the palate with lingering spicy vanilla."

COASTAL RIDGE 2001 Shiraz, California $7: "This wine has nice, fresh wild blackberry essences with plum and strawberry to back it up, as well as vanilla tones.  The finish is long with soft tannins."

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The MIRASSOU and GALLO families began working together in 2002 to expand the reach of MIRASSOU wines.  This event formalized a friendship between Edmund Mirassou and Ernest Gallo that started over 70 years ago.  This year, as the families celebrate together the Mirassou's 150th anniversary of family winemaking, they are pleased to introduce a new premium line of Mirassou wines.  "The bright new package reflects a sunny, optimistic spirit that befits America's oldest winemaking family."

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TURNING LEAF has introduced two additions to its portfolio: TURNING LEAF Coastal Reserve 2002 North Coast Pinot Noir and TURNING LEAF 2002 Monterey County Riesling. 

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KENWOOD 2002 Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley $20: "Nature and nurture deserve equal credit for producing this beautiful, harmonious and thoroughly delicious wine--worthy of 'Reserve.'  Nature's Russian River is widely acknowledged as California's premier Chardonnay region.   Nurture came from meticulous winemaking: fermented and aged in small French oak barrels.  Aging on yeast lees and malolactic fermentation in wood added smoothness and integrated complexity.  This KENWOOD shows vibrant aromas of tropical fruit, lemon zest, passion fruit and vanilla bean.  Expansive, fat flavors of lemon and pear are accented by vanilla, cream and toasty oak notes.  The wine remains smooth through the crisp, lingering finish."  KENWOOD 2001 Merlot, Sonoma $17 has an "intriguing nose that integrates plum, blackberry and spice notes.  The full-bodied palate is supple with highlights of red fruit, herb and cocoa, expansive, smooth flavors and a balanced finish."  KENWOOD 2001 Reserve Olivet Pinot Noir $25: "Take superb grapes from a great vintage and vineyard, ferment them with exacting care, age the young wine in new small French oak barrels and--with a little luck--the results might equal this new KENWOOD Reserve Pinot Noir.  With fickle Pinot Noir, even the best-of-everything approach doesn't often succeed.  Still, the 2001 Olivet has produced a gem, displaying fresh strawberry and red current luscious flavors with delicate nuances of vanilla and cinnamon.  There's complexity and a lingering finish."

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ECHELON 2003 Pinot Grigio, Esperanza Vineyard, Clarksburg $11: "The wine is light gold with aromas of floral, honeysuckle and pear tones.  Fruit forward, on the palate there is a silky texture with a long, crisp finish, pair with light cream sauces for seafood, cracked crab and oysters, mild cheeses and seasonal fruit."

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BEAULIEU Vineyard's Madame Fernande de Latour named the legendary 1936 BV® Cabernet Sauvignon vintage after her husband in 1941 and labeled it Private Reserve, setting the standard for Napa Valley and all California wines.   BV® Reserve wines represent a long tradition of utilizing great vineyards in distinctive regions to produce wines of elegance, intensity and longevity.   BV's French heritage combined with contemporary innovative thinking produces these special wines."

"Beaulieu's Appellation Tier of wines represents the heart of our production," say Winemaker Joel Aiken.  "The idea of place is at the heart of fine wine.  Our Appellation wines showcase those made in internationally recognized AVA (American Viticulture Areas), renowned for the quality, character and distinctive nature of the wines.  Currently the Beaulieu Appellation wines comes from Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Rutherford and Carneros AVAs.

BEAULIEU 2002 Coastal Shiraz $10 is one of those delicious good-value wines we all hope to find.  "Ripe with minty-vanilla, blueberry and raspberry aromas, robust and medium to full body, intensely spicy flavors showcase rich velvety texture, soft tannins and lively acidity, that complement berry flavors, pair with grilled meat dishes, rich stews, hard cheeses or whatever you like."

ROAST PORK LOIN

Combine first 6 ingredients in small bowl, Rub mixture evenly over roast.  Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning pork occasionally.  Preheat oven to 350°F.  Place loin on rack and put in roasting pan and roast until thermometer inserted in center of loin reads 160°F, about 1 hour and 25 minutes.

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CHALK HILL Estate Vineyards and Winery 2000 Merlot $43 is "grown, produced and bottled from vineyards on our home estate in Sonoma County, and the wine speaks of its heritage and terroir--that of the Chalk Hill Appellation in a corner of Russian River Valley.  This vintage is enhanced with small percentages of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot from tiny vineyard enclaves on the estate.  The harvest crew moved across the estate during the full month of October, selectively picking each block as it reached the pinnacle of ripeness.  The silky texture and lengthy fruit flavors were protected by gentle winemaking.  This Merlot has aromas of earth, plum and red currant with flavors of black cherry, cocoa and warm spice carried by the silky tannins through to a lingering  finish."

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IRON HORSE's Joy Sterling tells me that spring is the time to think pink.  In behalf of that invitation, IRON HORSE offers several stunning pinks.  "The season is about to begin for delicious, dry, sophisticated rosés, " Joy says.  "IRON HORSE has three: our 1998 Brut Rose Sparkling Wine, our 2003 Rose de Pinot Noir and our fabulous 2003 Rosato di Sangiovese.   The Brut Rose is my personal favorite of our Sparklings. It is perfect for garden parties. It is also the most versatile with food. I love this bubbly with steak! I serve it in a big Burgundy glass, so you get a bath of bubbles down your throat.  The combination makes me feel like I am James Bond, a frame of mind I strive for every day. It is also delicious with prosciutto wrapped halibut with a cherry tomato aioli.  The Rosé de Pinot Noir is very limited this year.  Only 300 cases were produced. The bouquet alone will make any day seem like a picnic - especially when served with sliced Parisian style or Black Forest ham and Gruyere on baguette.   The Rosato di Sangiovese is an exciting, vibrant rosé made from Sangiovese bled off the fermentation tanks. It has an intense strawberry bouquet, followed by rich, full-bodied, fruity flavors. It is great as an aperitif or with an antipasto salad – thinly sliced salami, asiago cheese and marinated artichoke hearts, served with grilled bread or crisp lettuce. The price is also very nice. Suggested retail is $10/bottle.   Think pink, Joy

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GABBIANO 2001Chianti Classico DOCG $14 comes from a 173-acre estate of vineyards and olive groves embraced by rolling hills in the northern part of Chianti Classico subzone of Tuscany.  Vineyards are planted on slopes at 700 to 900 feet above sea level for excellent sun exposure an altitude that gives  grapes a more delicate structure with pronounced fruit characteristics.  Sangiovese, the traditional anchor of the chianti classico varietals, is planted widely on the property with additional plantings of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc added more recently. The 2001 harvest was a beautiful display of the power of nature’s forces.  Gabbiano Chianti is a traditional blend of primarily Sangiovese grapes, but has small amounts of Canaiolo, Trebbiano, and Colorino grapes. The DOCG designation means this Chianti meets the rigorous winemaking standards set by Italian law and guarantees that the wine is produced using the highest quality of traditional winemaking methods. Mother Nature provided a harvest rich in color, which produced wines full of body, floral aromas and fruity tastes.   This wine is clear, bright and ruby-red in color. The bouquet is reminiscent of ripe plums spiced with pepper and wood nuances. The first sip reveals invigorating flavors of sour cherry, blackberry, and spice followed by a dry vivid finish.  Pair with  rich and spicy pasta dishes, tangy chicken or gourmet pizza.

FARAONE ( Guinea Hens) with Fennel

2 guinea hens or 4 Cornish game hens

4 rosemary branches

1 T. chopped fresh rosemary

20 large basil leaves, chopped (about 1/4 cup

2 T. chopped fresh thyme

12 slices pancetta or bacon (about 1/2 pound)

2 medium fennel bulbs

2 T. extra virgin olice oil

2 medium oinions

Wash and dry birds well. Simplest preparation is best—the flavor of the bird is emphasized. Lay rosemary branches on an oiled roasting pan and place the birds on top. Rub with a mixture of chopped rosemary, basil, and thyme, then drape with strips of pancetta. Remove tough outer portions of 2 fennel bulbs. Cut in half-inch crescents, drizzle with olive oil, and scatter them around the birds, along with a couple of quartered onions. Roast at 350oF (guinea hens for about 20 minutes per pound; Cornish game hens about 1 hour total). These birds are leaner than chicken; be careful not to overcook.  Makes 4 servings

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ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 2000 "CYRUS" Estate Bottled Alexander Valley $50 is the sixth vintage of this blend: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot.  "CYRUS is the ultimate expression of our estate grown grapes and the renowned Alexander Valley appellation," says Proprietor Hank Wetzel.  "March 15 was the 199th anniversary of Cyrus Alexander's birthday and the day Alexander Valley Vineyards happily released this CYRUS wine.  The handcrafted, limited production, estate-grown,  proprietary red is a fitting tribute to the man.  It displays rich, concentrated fruit, spicy oak, a velvety mouthfeel and lasting finish.

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SILVERADO VINEYARDS has released some new vintages.  Winemaker Jack Stuart says these wines continue the Silverado tradition of quality and consistency.

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“Each vintage we focus on creating wines of great depth and complexity, yet already drinkable upon release.  We recognize that some buyers are concerned with choosing wine for dinner, while some are collecting wines to store in their cellars, and we produce wines to serve both markets.  Our goal is to provide superb, enjoyable wines vintage after vintage.”  Walter Raymond, winemaker

 NAPA VALLEY RESERVES:  Stylish and well-balanced, these wines are produced from selected vineyards throughout the Napa Valley .  Rich, ripe fruit characteristics are evident in all the wines, balanced by the influence from oak aging.  The consistently superb quality has earned these wines a very devoted following. 

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MERIDIAN Winemaker Signe Zoller tells me that "in my16 years of winemaking with fruit from Santa Barbara County, no two vintages have been exactly the same.  I enjoy Mother Nature's lessons combined with my discoveries in the cellar  and do my best to create flavorful, intense wines.  The MERIDIAN  2002 Reserve Chardonnay ($16) has concentrated tropical notes elegantly framed by a soft creamy textures.  I achieve this level of finesse by using pretreated barrels--used once to ferment another wine that's removed and filled with the fresh juice to ferment."   MERIDIAN 2002 Reserve  Pinot Noir ($16) "used new clonal trials from the White Hills Vineyard and each clone produces fruit with different qualities.  Blending clones highlights the best of each.  This wine shows black cherry, peppery spice and hints of vanilla with velvety tannins and jammy fruit, she says."   "Syrah grown too cold lacks intensity and Syrah grown too hot can contribute baked, overripe components.  I've found the perfect compromise in this new blend from five vineyards for the MERIDIAN 2002 Reserve Syrah ($16), which has plum and blueberry jam flavors, soft tannins and finishes with a round, silky texture."

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WILD HORSE has two new spring releases--VIOGNIER and SYRAH.  Both varietals grow beautifully in the Central Coast and WILD HORSE expresses them well.  Enjoy!

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CHATEAU POTELLE in Mount Veeder of Napa Valley makes lovely wines.  Here are two new ones.

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            PEPI Winery: Beginning in April, the entire lineup of Pepi wines - including its popular Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese - makes a radical statement about the way premium wine is opened and presented.  Added to the popular wine portfolio will be a Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, all featuring sleek new Stelvin® screw caps.  "The click you hear when you twist off a Pepi screw cap signifies a snappy freshness in the wine that can only be described as cool and hip," says Pepi winemaker Chris Johnson.  "These are super-fresh wines under $10, made in a style that emphasizes the brightness of each variety's fruit flavor."  The Oakville winery, founded by Robert Pepi in 1966 and purchased by wine legend Jess Jackson in 1994, has a long and colorful history of producing cutting edge grape varieties, most recently focusing on Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese from the Napa Valley.  Pepi struck a popular chord in 2001 when it began producing a very modern American version of Pinot Grigio from grapes grown in Oregon.
Wine lovers can find Pepi wines in restaurants, retail outlets and grocery stores throughout America.  To learn more about Pepi wines, go
to www.pepi.com.  Pepi is part of the Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates.
          

WYOMING'S NATIONAL PARKS Pack Delightful Excursions and Fine Dining

I went to Yellowstone and the Grand Teton National Parks to see beauty. I was rewarded. It’s everywhere.

Hiking Yellowstone’s trails to Taggart Lake through fields of wildflowers and pine forests was a breathtaking delight. Climbing to the Teton’s Inspiration Point for hidden views of roaring rivers and their resounding spray beside waterfalls justified every step. I saw the incomparable beauty I sought, but there were also surprises. For myself, a person whose main exercise is chewing, I was doubly rewarded to find delicious food. So in addition to the feat of climbing paths to magnificence, I could race down the mountain to awaiting feasts—and a very comfy night of slumber.

National parks didn’t always provide delicious food and comfortable lodging. The concept began with Yellowstone (1872) and, as the first national park in the world, there were no models. Restaurants and hotels were only a dream. Christine Barnes writes in Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone National Park, "Primitive tent compounds were the early accommodations. Then from 1883-1891, the Park Association built hotels along Yellowstone’s’ Grand Loop Road. The roads were so bad that Congress passed a bill to provide construction of roads and bridges. In 1884, the first lunch station/hotel, a ramshackle building dubbed ‘The Shack,’ was built."

The Shack burned in 1894, but at least it began lodging at Upper Geyser Basin, the place of today’s Old Faithful Inn and the famous eponymous geyser. The Inn will be celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2004.

What a difference a century makes. Yellowstone has managed very well indeed, setting a stellar example for all ensuing national parks--including nearby Grand Teton National Park. Altogether, 83 million acres have been reserved for U.S. national parks--a lot of land for the public to admire. And, moreover, millions have responded, coming annually to enjoy these havens of preserved sanctuary to mend the soul and strengthen the body.

Visitors emphasize back-to-nature and outdoor experiences; consequently, food requisites are to be nourishing and substantial. Several places, however, have raised the culinary expectations--places like Jenny Lake Lodge and Jackson Lake Lodge in the Tetons and Yellowstone’s Lake Hotel and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Xanterra, the largest concessionaire for U.S. national parks, operates the Lake Hotel and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Mammoth Chef Bo Cleveland served a delectable meal to illustrate the "Conservation Cuisine" (also called sustainable food) that he and other Yellowstone chefs feature.

"The idea of our sustainable food program is to be considerate of people and places," Bo says. "We want to meet today’s needs without compromising the future of others to meet theirs. In 2001, our Yellowstone initiatives began with a meat company, Conservation Beef. We serve their product because the executives are concerned with habitat conservation. Also, the product complies with label claims to be natural—cows raised on natural grasses,’ ‘free range,’ ‘no artificial hormones’ and ‘not raised with antibiotics,’ which speaks to health issues important to us and our guests and, very importantly, the product tastes great."

Wild Alaskan salmon also has been placed on some Yellowstone menus and guests praise its superior flavor, according to Xanterra Director of Environmental Affairs Chris Lane.

"Free of chemicals and antibiotics, this fish is harvested without the environmental impacts associated with farm-raised salmon," Lane says. "Wild Alaskan salmon is one of only a few fisheries in the world certified ’sustainable’ by the Marine Stewardship Council's (MSC) international program for well-managed fisheries. MSC is an independent non-profit organization that works to enhance responsible management of seafood resources."

Lane believes that wild Alaskan salmon is better for the environment and more in line with Xanterra’s commitment to preserve the earth's natural resources.

"More than 60 percent of the world's commercial fish resources are in danger of extinction because of harvesting methods," Lane explains. "The ecological impact of fish farming--including pollution, disease transmission, genetic dilution, toxins and threats to other species such as seals and sea lions--is now well-documented."

Because of these considerate policies, salmon can be thoroughly enjoyed in several Yellowstone restaurants. Chef Bo serves it at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel.

"Our menu has a grilled salmon fillet with a Kaffir Lime butter sauce," he says. "Lake Hotel serves an oven roasted fillet with a white wine beurre blanc and fresh beet remoulade and the Old Faithful Snow Lodge serves a grilled fillet with a raspberry vinaigrette. Salmon is popular at each place."

In addition to salmon and beef, pork also has been added to Conservation Cuisine. Four park operations feature Niman Ranch Pork.

"Owner Bill Niman says he produces the finest tasting meat in the world by using a strict code of husbandry principles," Bo tells me. "His livestock are humanely treated, fed the purest natural feeds, never given growth hormones or sub-therapeutic antibiotics, and they are raised on land that is a sustainable resource. In other words…raised with care, naturally."

Park restaurant chefs are free to improvise with different recipes. The Old Faithful Inn menu features baked pork chops with an apple compote. At the Lake Hotel, a 16-ounce, smoked, center-cut pork chop is offered with a sage flavored reduction and fried spiced shallots. Canyon Lodge serves pork chops with a cranberry zinfandel sauce.

Chef Bo prepared a huge, charmingly pink, tender, one-pound center-cut pork chop with a properly dense polenta, and spicy glaze. I was dazed with deliciousness.

The attractive presentation perfectly matched Bo’s delicious Conservation Cuisine dinner. I could easily have been in any multi-starred restaurant anywhere in the world. Portions were generous and the items had a precise arrangement with attractive but not excessive decoration. Overdone design on the plate can be a dizzying distraction from the food. Sometimes it can even be dangerous. I recall one dinner in another country where I was served spring rolls with two, ten-inch-long fried noodles jutting upward from them. I named this "the lethal course" because one had to take care not to stab an eye until the adornment was removed.

Bo’s first Conservation course resembled an Italian antipasto: Roasted Roma Tomatoes, Fresh Mozzarella and Bocconcini, Mixed County Olives, Amaltheia Dairy (local) Goat Cheese and Crostini. The second course was the Seared Wild Alaskan Salmon served atop Organic Greens and Herbed Flatbread with Deep Creek (locally farmed) Asparagus. Our next course was the lovely Niman Ranch Pork Center Cut Pork Chop--the finest I’ve ever eaten.

"These products are part of our sustainable food program," Bo says. "We also use locally raised produce, legumes and cheese. I’ve been in Yellowstone twelve years and I feel lucky to live and work in one of the worlds true natural treasures."

Bo titled the dessert menu "Perfect Endings," a sobriquet equally applicable to arriving at his table after hiking through Yellowstone Park.

Recreationalists’ preoccupation with the outdoors does not preclude their enthusiasm for fine dinning. Energy bars are satisfying on the trail, but once off, adventurers appreciate Chilled Braised Prawns in Thai Carrot Broth or the Escargot Bourguignonne en Croute with Shiitake Mushroom. It’s serendipitous to discover fine dinning in the wilderness. In the Grand Teton National Park, I know just the places to dine well. Jenny Lake Lodge and Jackson Lake Lodge food will appease the most sophisticated palates.

Concessionaire Grand Teton Lodge Company operates the Jenny and Jackson lodges. Jackson is a resort hotel with 348 guest cottages, 37 rooms in the main lodge, two restaurants, a lounge, apparel shops, a gift shop, and a newsstand with various essentials like film, stamps, and sundries. Horseback riding stables are on the property and the outdoor swimming pool is heated. A concierge can arrange a float trip down the Snake River amidst amazing beauty.

Awarded Mobil Four Star and AAA Four Diamond recognition, Jenny Lake Lodge’s log construction exemplifies luxurious rustication. The 37 cabins have individual settings near the edge of the Tetons around the main lodge and dining room. Jenny’s guests have an impressive return rate.

Both Jackson Lake and Jenny Lake Lodges are in the heart of Grand Teton National Park and have unsurpassed views—no foothills obstruct the jutting, jagged twelve Teton peaks—the highest 13,770 feet. Their excellent food programs are managed by Executive Chef Joe Santangini, who apprenticed at Jackson Lake Lodge 15 years ago and his home base today.

"When I was first here I mopped the floors, washed pots and pans, worked in all the stations, and fell in love with cooking, " Chef Joe says. "It’s my passion. When I was hired to come back as Executive Chef, I told them I had two requests—beyond running the kitchens. I wanted to renovate and update. I spent $64,000 on new kitchen equipment and $50,000 on decorating the Mural Room."

Chef buys the food, writes the menus and consults with the staffs of all the properties.

For fine dining at Jackson Lake Lodge, The Mural Room is at your service seven days a week. You can even begin with a Belgium waffle imprinted with the form of a moose. These crunchy wonders originate in specially made waffle irons that are timed for perfect creations. Lights indicate when the iron is ready to cook or the waffle is done. There are, of course, multiple choices offered along the buffet line: yogurts, cereals, fresh fruits, assorted pastries, French toast, scrambled eggs, breads and rolls, cooked-to-order omelets, quiche, bacon and ham and more. Or, you can order off the menu.

Attractively decorated with western motifs and Indian murals, The Mural Room also has impressive art through the 100 feet of panoramic picture windows. For nonstop rugged beauty, enjoy gazing at the towering Tetons in all their glory as you drizzle maple syrup across your waffle.

Contemplate your next adventure while you dine on some of the finest Rocky Mountain cuisine. Chef Joe and I sampled most of the entrées, appetizers, and salads as curious onlookers watched the parade of plates to our table. One lady, unable to contain herself, finally came over to ask if I wrote about food. She seemed relieved to learn that I did. I took the opportunity to inquire about her meal.

"We’re from New York City and I was pleased to be able to switch caloric foods for more amenable ones to my diet without a fuss," she says. "And the sauces were just as good! My son thought the Angus beef rib eye was so good he had it two nights in a row!"

I understand his prejudice. I was tempted to do the same. I’m a Texan and Texans love beef and eat a lot of it. The Montana Corn Fed Black Angus rib eye was among the tastiest I’ve ever eaten. However, everything was well prepared. For a starter, I especially admired the Blue Point Oysters and Crab—all delivered fresh that day. The plump oysters, breaded in panco (also panko—coarser textured, air-dried, Japanese-style crumbs) and quickly sautéed in olive oil, tasted boat fresh. The Marinated Mozzarella and Vine Ripened Tomato Salad was served layered with roasted eggplant and pesto vinaigrette. Chef was especially proud of the vine-ripe tomatoes because finding fresh seasonal vegetables in the Tetons is extremely difficult.

"Small farmers are beginning to grow organic vegetables for me," he says, "otherwise, like so many things in this far northern state of Wyoming, fresh vegetables are flown in daily."

Buffalo is also preferred at Jackson Lake Lodge. Actually, the animals are correctly called bison, but the popular name has become buffalo. The once endangered and now plentiful bovine is the largest land animal in North America. They roam the range freely in national parks—look, don’t touch—literally and culinarily. Buffalo for the table are domesticated and raised on ranches. Chef Joe’s meat grazed on ranches owned by Ted Turner—communications mogul and largest private landowner in the United States with 1.7 million acres. Turner’s goal is to restore the land to its original state. Fences have been torn down and the open grasslands provide free-range for buffalo. Handled only when necessary, the herds spend their lives roaming and eating much as before the land was settled. Questionable drugs, chemicals, or hormones are not used in the production of bison meat.

Having dined elsewhere on buffalo that tasted gamy and wild, I was skeptical. But the Prime Rib of Buffalo at Jackson Lake Lodge met the same high standards of deliciousness as the corn-fed Angus beef. It was firm yet tender, moist, and like beef in texture and taste. Had I not known, I would have guessed the buffalo to be beef.

"Buffalo is lower in cholesterol and fat than other meats so it must be cooked slowly at a lower heat to preserve the natural juices," Chef Joe says, "but it is not dry or tough when properly cooked. The meat has no artificial coloring or additives like steroids or hormone so it’s ideal for everyone concerned about what they’re eating."

While wilderness area visitors seem especially fond of meat, The Mural Room menu offers temptations in every category. Appetizers include Wyoming Roll of Smoked Salmon and Trout Wrapped in Sushi Rice, and the Mountain Mushroom & Artichoke Dip in Sherry Cream Sauce with Herb Pita. For entrées in addition to the Black Angus Rib Eye and the Prime Rib of Buffalo, we tasted the Cedar Planked Wild Salmon.

"The salmon and buffalo are our two most popular menu items," Chef Joe says. "In the winter we visit test kitchens across the country and select from what we taste. That’s how we find the best on the market of everything--veal, beef, chicken, and fish."

The salmon was marinated in an herb roasted garlic aioli, seared and baked on cedar planks and topped with a langostino and chive sauce. The Grilled Veal Chop came with shiitake mushrooms in a rich, creamy, lemon butter sauce. Crusted in basil and mustard and served with tomato onion jam, the young Rack of Lamb tasted succulent and fresh. The Baby Spinach & Mushroom Lasagna with Gorgonzola Cream Sauce and Pesto Glaze completed our happy tasting most happily indeed. Everything was delicious at Jackson Lake Lodge.

Chef Joe told me that he met his Jenny Lake Lodge Chef Wes Hamilton when he was a teenager.

"Wes was 18 and an avid cyclist," Joe says. "He came to work for me one summer and he didn’t even know what iceberg lettuce was. Now I’m privileged to work with him because he is such an excellent chef. Jenny Lake guests consider fine food an amenity—it’s expected with the visit and a major reason visitors come."

Manager Angela Beaumont had Chef Hamilton prepare a number of dishes, and what a feast it was! I began with Soft Vegetable Spring Roll in Double Crème Brie and Apricot Coulis. This dish tasted as good as it sounds. No lethal noodles darting skyward here, just two rounded satiny covers holding crispy vegetables with a nice portion of creaminess beneath zigzags of coulis.

Next, the Vanilla Poached Lobster with Roasted Corn in Cream followed by the Grilled Portobello Bruschetta on Tomato-shallot fondue with Crisp Brioche were beautiful dishes to behold and to enjoy as starters.

The soup special that day was Fennel and Roasted Cauliflower with Walnut oil. There was a nice balance to flavors that have the tendency to be overwhelming if not handled well. Chef handled them very well indeed.

Be sure to have the Jenny Lake Signature Salad: Organic Greens, Sun-dried Cranberries, Spiced Pecans, Caramelized Red Onion Vinaigrette. The combination was lovely. And I learned why the Seared Pacific Scallops with Smoked Bacon-roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Summer Corn Nage was one of the most popular entrees. Each individual flavor was sustained in the myriad of textures that held my interest until the last silky scallop was gone.

A really juicy dish with earthy overtures was the Pan-roasted Pheasant with Artichoke and Wild Mushroom Barley, Crispy Carrot, Apple-current Jus Lié—a thick sauce to flavor the grains.

My favorite dessert was the Asian Tarte Tatin with Wonton Crisps, Caramelized Apples and Chai Crème, although everything was good.

Jenny Lake Lodge has a well-proportioned wine list. There are 13 white and red wines offered by the glass--a nice variety that included a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, California Chardonnay, Italian Pinot Grigio, Oregon Pinot Noir, Italian Chianti and French Bordeaux. Six sparkling wines included three of my favorites. Sauvignon Blancs numbered nine, with 21 Chardonnays and five mixed varietals to round out the white wines. Among the red wines are 21 Cabernet Sauvignons, 11 Merlots, 10 Pinot Noirs, six Zinfandels and 14 other varietals. I’m delighted that American wines dominate the list as I think they are among the finest in the world, and an appropriate complement to being in America the beautiful.

Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone Lake Hotel

Old Faithful Inn

Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel

www.nps.gov/yell

www.TravelYellowstone.com

Tel. (307)344-7311

Grand Teton National Park

Jackson Lake Lodge

Jenny Lake Lodge

www.gtlc.com

Tel. (307)543-3100

 

FLORIDA TOMATOES, FACTS and RECIPES:

BRUSCHETTA WITH TOMATOES BLUE CHEESE AND PECANS: Bruschetta is a type of Italian garlic bread, the perfect foundation for all sorts of wonderful toppings. This version uses a blend of cheeses mixed with pecans, topped with fresh Florida tomatoes, and basil. Serve as an appetizer, with soup, stew, or pasta dishes. Use the best rustic country bread you can find. 

 2 ounces cream cheese, softened

1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

2 T. coarsely chopped pecans

4 slices crusty, firm-textured bread, cut about 3/4 inch thick

2 cloves garlic peeled and halved

2 large Florida tomatoes, sliced about 1/8 inch thick

freshly ground pepper to taste

chopped fresh basil or dried basil for garnish

1. In a small bowl, mash the cheeses together with a fork, leaving the mixture somewhat chunky. Mix in the pecans.  2. Preheat the broiler, Arrange the bread on a small baking sheet and broil the slices for about a minute on each side. Just until golden. Watch it carefully so it doesn’t burn. 3. Rub one side of each piece of bread with garlic.  4. Spread some of the cheese mixture over each slice and arrange 2 or 3 overlapping tomato slices on top. Pepper the tomatoes lightly, then garnish with basil and serve.

FLORIDA TOMATO BITS & PIECES
* Americans on average consume 18 pounds of tomatoes every year.
* Florida Tomatoes account for 95% of all U.S. grown tomatoes eaten by Americans October to June. And 45% of all tomatoes consumed in the U.S. year-round are Florida Tomatoes.
* Tomatoes are actually a fruit even though the U.S. Supreme Court declared them a vegetable in 1893.
* The tomato is a true American native. Originally cultivated by Aztecs and Incas as early as 700 A.D., tomatoes were introduced to Europeans during 16th century explorations.

 


 

© 2003 Sarah Jane English

Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com

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