The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  62nd Edition
March 9, 2004



TOP PICKS OF THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) $ Best Value

Varietals: Merlots (please look for current vintage available)

SPECIAL GUEST VIOLET GRGICH: Violet Grgich, VP Sales & Marketing Grgich Hills Cellar, will be the featured guest wine principal in Sarah Jane's home with her tasters during March 2004 .  Grgich Hills Cellar in Rutherford, Napa Valley was founded on July 4, 1977 by Miljenko "Mike" Grgich and Austin E. Hills of the Hills Brothers coffee family.  Grgich first gained worldwide attention in 1976 with the famous "Paris Tasting" in which an all French panel of judges chose his 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay over the best of the white Burgundies in a blind tasting.  A combination of Grgich's expert wine making and Hills' (who owned established vineyards) business and finance background made the match for Grgich Hills Cellar.  Entering its 27th year, the tradition of making world class wines continues--earning countless special awards and recognition.   Still active in daily operations, Grgich looks forward to retirement someday and will rely on daughter Violet Grgich, VP Sales & Marketing, and nephew Ivo Jeramaz, VP Production & Vineyard Development, for the  continued excellence of Grgich Hills Cellar--always the uncompromising philosophy.   "Each of our six wines is treated as a special child," Mike says, "receiving devoted attention to every development stage to achieve its own unique character. We're never satisfied with yesterday's best and each vintage is a new challenge to create the best wines of the future."
    The stellar attraction of Grgich Hills is our Chardonnay, an elegant example of the varietal displaying rich flavors and exquisite balance. As a complement to the Chardonnay we also produce a clean, crisp Fume Blanc, a spicy Zinfandel, a Cabernet Sauvignon with tremendous depth and complexity, a luscious dessert wine named after Mike Grgich's daughter called " Violetta," and last but not least, a newly introduced Merlot!   Grgich Hills Cellar, in the middle of Napa Valley on Highway 29 just north of Rutherford is open daily for retail sales and wine tasting. Comprehensive tours of the facility are offered by appointment only. For directions or additional information please email info@grgich.com or call us at (800) 532-3057.      Violet Grgich was born in Napa Valley, California and accompanied her father early on in his winemaking and vineyard duties. Since the establishment of Grgich Hills Cellar in 1977, she has worked every summer in the winery, doing everything from bottling line work to laboratory analysis and tasting room.   Attending the University of California at Davis, Ms. Grgich earned a BA in music while completing classes in biology, chemistry and enology.  Upon graduation, she returned to Grgich Hills to continue her cellar and laboratory work, while also schooling herself in the daily operations of the winery.   Violet Grgich has her Master of Music degree from the Indiana University School of Music where she studied harpsichord.  She has performed with Jeffrey Thomas, the Hilliard Ensemble and with the Indiana University Baroque Orchestra, is on the Board of Directors of the San Francisco Early Music Society and performs in the San Francisco Bay Area.  Her musical experience includes piano, flute, harpsichord, recorder, viola da gamba and voice.   Violet Grgich currently works with her father  to manage Grgich Hills Cellar, and represents the winery throughout the world.  She plans on taking over daily operations if her father ever decides to retire.


 

WINERY OF THE MONTH: SCHUG Carneros Estate; WALTER SCHUG, industry veteran, oversaw the final crushing of Cabernet Sauvignon from a small vineyard in Sonoma Valley,  representing the finish of the 2003 harvest at SCHUG CARNEROS ESTATE and representing a half-century of winemaking for one of California's pioneer winemakers.   WALTER SCHUG remains loyal to Bordeaux varietals 30 years after helping put Napa Cabernet on the map.  In the 1970s, Winemaster Walter Schug established a track record of creating benchmark wines based on Bordeaux varietals as the founding winemaker at Joseph Phelps Vineyards.  He left Phelps in 1983 to focus on his own label, devoted to Pinot Noir, yet Cabernet and Merlot never left his radar.   With the release of the SCHUG 2001Sonoma Valley Merlot and SCHUG 2001 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, he continues a personal pursuit of great red wine that goes back over 30 years.  Walter's reputation as a master of Bordeaux varietals began at Phelps in 1973, where for a decade he received high praise for his single vineyard Cabernets from Eisele and Backus Vineyard.   While there he also created "Insignia," America's pioneering Bordeaux blend.  Under Walter's own label, the SCHUG 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2001 Merlot embody his long-held belief that these varietals as both become more balanced and more complex when presented in a blend.

 NEWS

MONTICELLO Wins big on gold!!  BEST OF CLASS/GOLD-GOLD-GOLD-GOLD and MORE GOLD! Events and happenings as well!   San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition - 2004
BEST OF CLASS / GOLD -- 2001 MONTICELLO VINEYARDS Estate Grown Merlot; GOLD -- 2000 CORLEY RESERVE Cabernet Sauvignon; GOLD -- 2000 CORLEY Proprietary Red Wine and GOLD --2001 CORLEY RESERVE Estate Grown Chardonnay (2003)
Be among the estimated guests swirling, sniffing, and sipping their way through over 1,800 medal-winning wines at the fourth annual public tasting of the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. This year's grand tasting of wine and gourmet foods will be March 20 from 1-5 p.m. in the Concourse of the AAA Club Level of SBC Park, home of the San Francisco Giants. Enjoy the views of San Francisco Bay and the East Bay hills while savoring the finest wines and foods of California. Tickets will be available on www.winejudging.com     And from the Hilton Head Wine Fest 2004: GOLD -- 2000 MONTICELLO VINEYARDS Jefferson Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon and GOLD --2000 MONTICELLO VINEYARDS Estate Grown Chardonnay 

HERZOG WINE CELLARS marked its 20th Year Anniversary in January 2004 with the groundbreaking of its new Oxnard, California-based winery, making it the largest, new winery on the West Coast since the winery boom of the 1990s: it's also the largest facility producing kosher-certified wines.
The Herzog family, now in its 8th generation, continues to direct the company’s day-to-day operations. The company, based in Bayonne, N.J., has produced Herzog California wines since 1984, blending and bottling its last five vintages at a small winery in Santa Maria, California.

EBERLE celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2004.  I first met Gary Eberle in Dallas at a wine event at the Crescent Court Hotel.  I was seated on the back of a Longhorn steer for a photograph with the chef and Gary was invited to join us for the picture.  Gary, a substantial handsome hunk of a man,  ran second in size to the steer, but just barely.   In addition to having played professional football, Gary pilots his own plane.  I visited the wine country shortly afterwards with EBERLE on my agenda and enjoyed tasting wines with this capable, affable man.  Also, another visit included dining with him and his wife and a visiting chef.   At that time Gary offered to fly me over to Paso Robles if  I was ever in Southern California, so I let him know when I was attending an event in Carmel, California, and he flew over to pick me up.   What a great view of the vineyards we had on the way to his winery and home, where he and his wife again graciously entertained me for a couple of days.   Gary Eberle pioneered winemaking in Paso Robles in the mid-1970s.  At that time he headed his family's Estrella River Winery (now Meridian) and produced 500,000 cases a year.  In 1979 he produced the first vintage of EBERLE estate wine and continues to add credits to an already long list.  In 1980 he co-founded the Paso Robles appellation and was first to produce a 100% Syrah.  The EBERLE Winery opened the spring of 1983, welcoming worldwide visitors to taste Paso Robles wines.  A replica of the original bronze Porcellino ( Eberle's emblem is a boar) statue by Tacca (1620) is at the winery entrance.  It's considered good luck to rub the boar's nose and toss a coin in the water--the coins are donated to local children charities.  A redwood  building was designed so the winery would complement the natural   countryside.  In 1994, Eberle built additional space for the red wine program, adding 16,000 square feet of underground caves below the winery, which also accommodates  guest chef dinner series and private events.   EBERLE is a high award-winning winery.  President Ronald Reagan took EBERLE Cabernet Sauvignon on his trip to China (1985) and in 2003 Governor-elect Arnold Schwarzenegger served EBERLE to President George Bush.  Gary says that after 25 years his dream remains the same--"to produce some of the best wine that California has to offer and have a great time doing it!"

"TASTE WASHINGTON Wine and Food festival" expands to three days in 2004: Wine and food pairings, wine tasting and seminars all to benefit FareStart and wine education:  The Washington Wine Commission’s annual event is April 16, 17, 18.  Contact:   www.tastewashington.org.

DOMAINE CHANDON, which opened 25 years ago,  announced the addition of Executive Chef Ron Boyd--highly inspired and admired with a host of sterling accomplishments.  Continuing to celebrate the delights of plate and glass, Chef  Boyd promises the restaurant will serve cutting-edge cuisine and wine pairings, excellent service, and idyllic Wine Country surroundings.  "I want to heighten the entire experience through fresh, unexpected, and spectacular combinations in both food and wine pairings," explains Boyd.   "I handle all the products with care to bring out the best in what they have to offer, and showcase their true, bold flavors along with a textural twist from technique or flavor."   Three of Boyd's new menu items offer inspired and unconventional combinations, such as Pan Seared Diver Scallops with Sea Urchin Tartine, Bone Marrow and Passion Fruit ($17), Potato and Winter Truffle Soufflé with Potato Salad and Truffle Jus ($16), and Poached Filet Mignon with Onion Confit, Broccoli Rabe Gnocchi and Marrow Emulsion ($34).

GRAND TETON LODGE COMPANY OFFERS 20 PERCENT DISCOUNT FOR EARLY-SEASON VISITORS IN 2004: Coincides with Prime Wildlife-Viewing Time In Grand Teton National Park-- Called the "Moose-Lover's" Room Special, the offer is a special rate of $128 for a standard non-view room at the Jackson Lake Lodge.   Available from May 21--opening day for Jackson Lake Lodge for the spring/summer season--through June 10, the special encourages early-season visitors to take advantage of one of the prime moose-watching times of the year.  Spring is also a wonderful season for viewing elk, mule deer, coyotes, pelicans, trumpeter swans, sandhill cranes, osprey and eagles.  The special will be offered again from September 22 through October 5, another prime time for moose-watchers because it is mating season. 
For more information or to make reservations, call 307-543-3100 or visit www.gtlc.com

ANAPAMU (ON-AH-PAH-MOO) RIESLING  wins a prominent award.  Anapamu Riesling 2001 vintage, Monterey County, was named the “Best White Vinifera Wine” in this competition held at the University of Missouri Culinary Center on December 18 and 19, 2003.  Anapamu Cellars received the “Best Red Vinifera Wine” in the 2001 Jefferson Cup for its 1999 Syrah. 

FLORA SPRINGS is hosting several events to show off the wine and the winery: vertical tastings, horizontal tastings, blending opportunities and crush experiments during harvest.  Contact.   www.florasprings.com

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK MULE TRIPS TO RESUME AFTER TRAIL MAINTENANCE:  Day Trips to Plateau Point Start March 23;  Phantom Ranch Trips Start May 1.   Xanterra Parks & Resorts, operator of lodges, restaurants and activities at the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, has announced dates for resuming both day and overnight mule trips.   Mule rides were suspended to allow for trail maintenance on the Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails by the National Park Service and Xanterra.    "Work has progressed steadily and satisfactorily, and we are pleased to again schedule these popular, historical trips," said Bill Johnston, Xanterra's general manager of South Rim operations.  "Mule rides in the Grand Canyon have been available to tourists since 1887, and we estimate more than 600,000 people have made this journey since."  Reservations:  888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757.  

RANCHO ZABACO® WINS 2004 WHITE WINE SWEEPSTAKE AWARD:  San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition awarded Rancho Zabaco's 2002 Russian River Reserve Sauvignon Blanc as the 2004 'White Wine Sweepstake Winner'.  Rancho Zabaco was selected from among 800 white wines. Sweepstake awards were also given to the Patz & Hall 2002 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast for the red wine category and the Mumm Napa 1999 Blanc de Blancs Napa Valley for the sparkling wine category.  A total of over 2500 wines were submitted.  Rancho Zabaco's Sauvignon Blanc was selected as the 'White Wine Sweepstake Winner' among the twelve 'Best of Class' white wines.   The Rancho Zabaco 2002 Russian River Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, a blend of 88 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 12 percent Sémillon, showcases the varietal character of a cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc from the esteemed Russian River Valley.  The suggested retail price is $18.   For more information, visit www.ranchozabaco.com.

WINES OF BAJA CALIFORNIA by Ralph Amey is the first book about "Touring and Tasting Mexico's Undiscovered Treasures," and the only one in the English language.  Dimitri Tchelistcheff, former technical director of Bodegas Santo Tomas Winery (oldest winery in Baja), wrote the preface.  The book begins with a brief history of wine making in Mexico at large and turns to the specific history of the valleys that comprise Baja: Guadalupe, Santo Tomas, San Vicente and Tecate.    Each winery and its wines are discussed thoroughly with wine and food pairings and finally the vintages and grapes, festivals, hotels and restaurants are discussed.  $19.95, (800) 231-9463, FAX (650) 866-3513, www.wineappreciation.com

HOGUE CELLARS' WINES HAVE NEW LABEL: Hogue Cellars has new, still classic packaging for its Fruit Forward line of wines.  All eleven Hogue wines display the new look--a change from an olive green, black, and gray label to one primarily deep garnet accented by splashes of gold and black. The updated bottle capsules are also red and black, providing an eye-catching, bold effect on the retail shelves.  The Hogue logo is the same.
Wade Wolfe, vice president of production and winegrowing says, "The new package design is more consistent with our Genesis and Reserve bottles.  We continue to offer superior wallet-friendly Washington wine, and with the new labels further showcase our wine through a modern, sophisticated style." 
Hogue is simultaneously releasing 2003 vintages of three Fruit Forward wines that are ideal for the upcoming spring season:  2003 Pinot Grigio ($10 SRP), 2003 Gewürztraminer ($9 SRP), and 2003 Late Harvest White Riesling ($10 SRP).  These new release wines are comprised of Columbia Valley fruit and were fermented cool in stainless steel tanks. 
In addition to its Fruit Forward line, consistently priced at $10 and under, Hogue Cellars also makes five wines under its Genesis by Hogue brand, as well as three limited production, ultra-premium Reserve wines.  All wines are nationally available. 
About Hogue Cellars  Founded by Mike and Gary Hogue in 1982 and based on the values of the Hogue farming family, Prosser-based Hogue Cellars has become one of Washington's largest wineries.  In addition to growing Concord and vinifera wine grapes, the Hogue family produces specialty apples and hops in eastern Washington's Columbia and Yakima valleys.  For more information, visit: www.hoguecellars.com.

CHATEAU MONTELENA Winery Offers Futures:  The 25th Vintage of CHATEAU MONTELENA, 2002 Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, will have futures available beginning in March  for a limited time in selected fine wine shops around the country , and are also available on the winery’s website at www.montelena.com.  Since the first futures were offered in 1998, each spring an unreleased vintage of Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is available at a price that is 40% to 60% less than the eventual retail release price.   Established in 1882, Chateau Montelena is one of Napa Valley’s oldest wineries.  Purchased by the Barrett family in 1972, the vineyards were completely replanted.  Chateau Montelena bottled its first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Montelena Estate Vineyard in 1978. Planted on St. George rootstock, which is resistant to the root louse phylloxera, they are some of the oldest producing Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Napa Valley.   Information: (707) 942-5105, by fax at (707) 942-4221

 

NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

IRON HORSE Winery Principal Joy Sterling is very excited about the 2001 vintage wines.  The first two releases for the new year are IRON HORSE 2001 Estate Pinot Noir and IRON HORSE 2001 Estate Chardonnay.  "We struck gold in 2001," Joy exclaimed.  "The Chardonnay is our best since 1997.  The Pinot Noir is enchanting.  The 2001 vintage quality--which is what we really care about-- is excellent.  I've never seen such beautiful, uniform, even maturity of fruit.  Warm weather pushed up everything--you could even see it in the accelerated succession of daffodils to iris to tulips in my father's garden.  I am most proud that these wines reflect the unique style of our vineyards in Green Valley and show our continuing efforts--both in the vineyard and in our winemaking--to accentuate the distinctive flavors we can draw from this special place."

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KING ESTATE reports that the releases of the 2002 Pinot Gris wines come from 100% organic farming techniques.  "Often described as clean and green, Oregon's growing conditions are ideal for Pinot Gris--its gradual ripening tendency perfectly matches Oregon's growing season, a key to flavor and balance."

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BERINGER Vineyards Winemaker Laurie Hook says "One of the most important lessons Winemaker Ed Sbragia has taught me in the over 18 years  I've worked with him is that there's always more to learn in winemaking.  The journey of trial and error and accumulating experience is endless; the idea of truly mastering all aspects of it an unattainable grail.  Working in a climate like this is invigorating and fascinating  (and overwhelming at times!).  Each wine bottles incorporates thousands of decisions made in the vineyard and winery, and each variable is a world unto itself, worthy of deep study and consideration.  And then, when you think you've got it, Mother Nature changes it all again."  Laurie says it is because of Ed's philosophy--always raising the bar of quality--that their wines constantly evolve.  Here are a couple more of their examples to enjoy.

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TRUCHARD VINEYARDS: The Truchard family winegrowing dates back to 1887. Two brothers, Father Anthony Marie Truchard and Jean Marie Truchard (Tony's grandfather) migrated to the United States from Souternon, France, a small rural community near Lyon. They settled in Eastern Texas, planted a vineyard and built a winery. The winery, like many in the United States, did not survive Prohibition. Tony grew up on the family farm in Texas, and called on his farming and engineering expertise to develop his first vineyard back in 1974 (even while practicing as a medical doctor). With an intuitive approach to planting and meticulous attention to his vines Truchard quickly developed a reputation as one of the outstanding vineyards in Carneros. Selling to many of the established and reputable wineries in the Napa Valley for over 15 years, Tony decided to start his own winery in 1989 using only fruit from his ranch. Truchard Vineyards now produces 16,000 cases of  wine, while continuing to provide quality fruit to more than 20 other wineries in Napa and Sonoma Valley.

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 SILVERADO 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Single-Vineyard Selection, Napa $65: "With the exceptions of a brief, June heat wave and a trace of rain late August and early September (just enough to keep the dust down), the 2000 growing season was nearly perfect.  On land that has supported vines since the 1880s, our home vineyard was the third property planted to Cabernet Sauvignon in what would later become the Stags Leap District, and fruit from this property helped establish the area’s reputation in the 1970s. Like its predecessors, this single-vineyard wine displays the ripe and complex fruit, supple texture, and solid structure that helped define the District.  Average Brix at harvest was 24.3° with moderate yields, just over five tons per acre. Fermentation was followed by extended maceration that held the juice on the skins slightly more than a month. We aged this Cabernet 20 months in barrels, four-fifths French and one-fifth American. Three-quarters were new. Just 912 cases of this all-Cabernet blend were bottled in October 2002.  Generous aromas of cassis, ripe Bing cherry, sweet tobacco and spicy oak. Full body with velvety texture. Rich cassis and plum flavors with black pepper and dark chocolate notes. Refined and well-balanced, yet marked by exceptional length.

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CHALK HILL 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chalk Hill, Sonoma $50: "The 2000 Cabernet harvest was prolonged, and with balanced crop levels and meticulous management in the vineyards, we patiently waited for full flavor development before harvesting this late-ripening variety.  A blend of 90% Cabernet, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec, aged 21 months in 56% new oak.  The wine is redolent of dark berry fruit, currant, spiced leather and mocha.  The wine's full, soft tannins generously fill out the middle palate while adding sweetness and length to the finish."

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With its EXP line, R. H. Phillips is the single largest producer of estate Viognier, Syrah and Tempranillo in the U.S.  Co-founders John, Lane and Karl Giguiere wanted to offer wine drinkers the opportunity to EXPlore Mediterranean varieties and developed the Viognier, Syrah and Tempranillo.  Today the R. H. Phillips estate has 370 acres dedicated to Syrah, 108 to Viognier and 17 to Tempranillo to produce the EXP line.  Additionally, R.H. Phillips has launched its first vintage of Toasted Head 2002 Chardonnay from Russian River Valley $17

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BOUCHAINE General Manager Mike Richmond introduced the BUCHLI (buck-ley) STATION line of wines as celebrating the American spirit.  "BOUCHAINE is known for crafting one-of-a kind Carneros Pinot Noir and Chardonnay," he says.  "Buchli Station was built by Southern Pacific Railroad to ship all the products in and out of this agricultural paradise, including wines.  Like our fathers and grandfathers before us, the story of Napa and Buchli Station represents the American can-do spirit of the family farm."

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SPRING MOUNTAIN Vineyard's Tom Ferrell says, "the Spring Mountain District is on the cusp of becoming something very big.  We have our neighbors to thank for producing such wonderful wines and carrying forward the reputation of the appellation."

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 Founded in 1974, the Bronco Wine Company celebrates its 30th anniversary this year.  It has become a major force in grape growing, winemaking, distribution, marketing and sales.  One of Bronco's solid wine brands is Forest Glen, which has been making "delicious wines that consumers love for more than ten years."  

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MESSINA HOF Winery & Resort has 40 acres of cultivated vineyards on a 100-acre estate, which includes Vintage House Restaurant and the Villa, a 10 room bed and breakfast.  Co-owners Merrill and Paul Bonarrigo planted vines in Bryan, Texas, in 1977,  making Messina Hof  one Texas' earliest vineyards.  The name of the winery reflects the two heritages of Merrill (German) and Paul (Italian).  Today Texas has approximately 60 wineries.  The Bonarrigos have more new awards to announce.  The MESSINA HOF 2001 PAULO, a Bordeaux blend, won a gold medal at the Taster's Guild International Wine Competition.  "This special edition marks the fact that the Paulo Bonarrigo family has been making fine wines since 1800," says Merrill.  "It is an old-world tradition that the first-born son of each generation is named Paulo.  Our son, Paulo VII, will become our next winemaker.  This wine is our salute to all the preceding Paulos, from whom we've learned so much."  MESSINA HOF 2001 Merlot, Private Reserve is the 25th Anniversary bottle. 

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VALLEY OF THE MOON 2000 Cuvee de la Luna $25:  "This wine takes excellence beyond the boundaries set by most  wineries to create the most flavorful, most complex Meritage possible.  Unfettered by varietal or regional constraints, this Bordeaux style red has remarkable character and finesse.  It features forward aromas of currant, blackberry and cedar.  Flavors are mouth filling yet gentle, beautifully balanced and smooth with integrated tannins."  VALLEY OF THE MOON 2001 Zinfandel, Sonoma $15: "A perfect balance of many elements, the wine has opulent aromas of ripe boysenberry and Italian plum.  Delicate vanilla complexity, berry and stone fruits give mouthfilling favors, rich and smooth with a vibrant finish."

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PENFOLDS announced the release of its 2001 Bin range of wines, promising that the warmer vintage produced excellent wines.  The Penfolds Bins are renowned for the superior quality and possess the paradox that they are imminently enjoyable yet will reward cellaring.  Winemaker Peter Gago joined Penfolds in 1989 and took over the mantle from his long-time friend and colleague, John Duval, in July 2002.  "Penfolds--both red and white-- wines are made to be true to a particular style each year," he says.  "Our vineyards and grape sources are widely spread throughout Australia's top wine-producing regions and this enables us to reduce the impact of vintage variation.  An exciting part of my job is in the development of new wine styles."

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ROBERT CRAIG 2001 Affinity Napa Valley $40 is Bob's Bordeaux-style blend of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc.   "It's wonderfully rich and powerful.  The 2001 vintage has produced quintessential dark, complex flavors and round, ripe tannins, offering the best that the Napa Valley floor fruit can five.  It's full-bodied and elegant with multi-tiered flavors.  Forward bouquet of black fruit and rich cherry, interlaced with mocha, sweet herbs (sage), toffee and spice, a central core of concentrated fruits with layers of ripe blackberry, currant, anise and coffee."

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LAKE SONOMA WINERY 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley $22, "represents winemaking at its more pure--one vintage, one grape variety, one vineyard region (well, almost) and one set of time-honored techniques.  When everything goes right, such simplicity can make magic and this wine shows that everything went right.  Generous odors and flavors of cassis, blackberry, herb and cedar, mouth filling with exquisite balance and smooth palate gives youthful tannins of a graceful quality."

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SHAFER Napa Valley wines started with SHAFER's 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon "and a lot of worry," Doug says.  "Dad was very nervous because here it was our first harvest and we couldn't get a picking crew in time.  I remember the sugar levels were rising, the ripeness was pushing out farther and farther--who knew where such a thing would lead?"  By the 1990s, conventional wisdom had done a reversal and sided with the idea of hang time--waiting until the fruit reached maximum ripeness in order to fully express varietal character and to achieve concentration of color and flavor.  After 25 years we've learned a lot about this grape--where it grows best, how to blend, how to barrel age.  Mostly it's knowing when to stay out of the way and let the wine develop the way it wants,"  Doug says.

SHAFER 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon , Napa Valley $52: " The 2001 growing season was one that grapes love — uneventful to the point of being thoroughly forgettable. Rain clouds threatened as harvest neared, but we took a gamble and left the fruit on the vine to reach bolder, more mature flavors and the payoff is in the bottle. The blend is 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Merlot.   We are very pleased with the hillside and ridgeline fruit coming from our youthful estate vineyards in Oak Knoll. Oak Knoll only received appellation status a couple of years ago and its potential has yet to be fully discovered. Anyone looking for something new in Napa Valley should start here along the same dry, barren Southeastern corridor that runs in a direct line from our property in Stags Leap District.

Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon is an elegant, silky wine with soft tannins and abundant fruit that is approachable when young, yet capable of aging gracefully. From the first vintage, it has consistently reflected the Shafer style and commitment to quality. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc, it is aged for approximately 18 months in French and American oak barrels. "Cabernet is the grape that has earned Napa Valley its international reputation for quality, and for me, it's one of the most fun wines to make because of the exceptional vineyards I get to work with and the chance to see, year in and year out, how terroir makes its mark on Cabernet." -- Elias Fernandez     

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JOSEPH PHELPS was founded in 1972.  The winery and home vineyards of Joseph Phelps are located in Spring Valley near St. Helena, on a 600-acre ranch that is characterized by rolling hills, California native oaks, and 160 acres of meticulously tended vines.   The first Phelps wine, 1973 Johannisberg Riesling, was introduced in the fall of 1974. Since then, production has grown to 100,000 cases annually, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot serving as the winery's core varietals. The Phelps portfolio also includes — in years when weather conditions permit — luscious dessert wines made from Johannisberg Riesling Scheurebe, Semillon and Muscat. Long known for his innovative spirit and passion for quality, Joe Phelps pioneered a number of 'firsts' in the early years of the winery.  The 1974 Insignia — released in the spring of 1978 — was the first Bordeaux-style blend produced in California under a proprietary label. The release of the 1974 Syrah in 1977 sparked industry-wide interest in a remarkable French varietal whose plantings in California had disappeared and been virtually forgotten for over half a century. And in 1990, after years of research, a whole new family of Rhone-style wines was introduced under the Vin du Mistral label and included Syrah, Viognier, Grenache Rosé, and a delicious red wine blend called Le Mistral.

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J Vineyards & Winery's  2003 J Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley $18, a delicious vineyard blend of 100%Pinot Gris from Judy Jordan's Cooper and River Road Vineyards, Saralee's Vineyard, Greene, Webber and Preston Vineyards, giving the wine it's complexity.  Whole grape clusters were gently pressed in J's Coquard press, which minimizes the extraction of harsh components from skins and grapes.  Free-run juice and press fraction juices were fermented separately.  This wine is fruit forward with crisp acidity, showing tangerine, cantaloupe and tropical fruit with floral notes of orange blossom, jasmine and vanilla.  A lush and harmonious palate with light spice and refreshing acidity and a delicious blended finish of fruit components.  Judy includes a good recipe to pair with this wine.

Mandarin Crab Pancakes with Lime (about 30)

Combine flour, sesame seeds and salt in a standing mixer.  On low speed add hot water and mix for one minute, then add cold water and mix until dough forms into a ball.  On a floured surface, knead dough for five minutes.  Cover with plastic and let rest for 30 minutes.  Once rested, divide into thee inch balls and roll each ball as thin as possible using as much flour as needed to ensure dough does not stick to surface or rolling pin.  Cut dough with a circular cutter and set aside.  (Pancakes can be substituted with won ton wrappers)

Dungeness Crab Mixture

Combine all ingredients and mix well.  Use fingers to moisten edges of pancake with water.

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Beringer Vineyards honors its founders, Frederick and Jacob Beringer, with the rich flavors of Beringer Founders' Estate wines. While the name reflects the Beringer legacy that began in 1875, the wines reflect the continued Beringer commitment to quality and the tremendous viticultural advances made in recent decades throughout California

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KENWOOD 2001 Zinfandel, Sonoma County $16, blends the best of two worlds, "the intense fruit of treasured 'Old Vine' Zin with exuberant fruit from younger vines, giving this delicious Zinfandel the lush berry character and fresh, supple style that has universal appeal."

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SIGNORELLO has released its newest wines: SIGNORELLO 2002 Seta $25 and the SIGNORELLO 2002 Chardonnay Estate, Vieilles Vignes $38.  "The grapes sourced for the unfiltered, native-yeast fermented SIGNORELLO 2002 Chardonnay Estate were handpicked and carefully selected from our original vineyard, planted in 1980.  These 24-year-old-vines yielded an average of 1.7 tons per acre.  Careful whole cluster pressing minimized skin contact, gently giving the wine balance and a silky mouth feel, aided by malolactic fermentation and unfiltered to preserve fruit intensity and body.  Nose of intense tropical fruit, toast and mineral with rich fruit flavors, especially apple and pear, a lush palate, French oak provides touch of spice with hints of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg, silky texture.  The SIGNORELLO 2002 SETA is a barrel fermented blend of 60% Semillon and 40 Sauvignon Blanc.  'SETA' is Italian for silk, which describes this lush wine.  It was 100% barrel fermented to enhance the fruit's unusually rich and complex flavors.  This wine is full bodied with a spicy nose and hints of melon, nectarine and fresh mown hay.  Crisp flavors of fresh pears, melon and passion fruit blanace the rich vanilla and mineral overtones--a long juicy finish."

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KIM CRAWFORD 2003 Marlborough Pinot Noir, New  Zealand $17 blended grapes from various vineyards.  "The cool, dry conditions were ideal for the ripening of Pinot Noir.  Hand harvested, the grapes were cold macerated for three days.  The aroma is distinctively Pinot Noir with berry fruit, especially raspberry, wild strawberry, cherry and hints of rhubarb.  The palate is a savory, elegant Pinot Noir with ripe fruit coupled with soft tannins and touch of oak, medium bodied with good weight, pair with pasta, lighter red meat and fish."   

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KENDALL-JACKSON has a philosophy for the Grand Reserve--"to blend the best California grapes without compromise."  KENDALL-JACKSON 2002 Grand Reserve Chardonnay $20 was barrel fermented for nine months of sur lie aging, mostly in small French oak barrels, which adds vanilla, spice and toasty oak aromas that complement layers of citrus, apple, and exotic tropical fruit.  Balanced acidity and a polished, supple texture create uncommon finesse to the palate and finish," say Winemaker Randy Ullom.  KENDALL-JACKSON 2001 Grand Reserve Merlot $26 has flavors and aromas of chocolate, raspberry and cherry.  This rich, full-bodied Merlot has focused tannins, combined with subtle French oak nuances of light toast and vanilla, which contribute to a long, elegant finish."    KENDALL-JACKSON 2002 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $26 has layers of currants, blackberry and plum which showcase the powerful fruit and impressive structure.  "Wonderful complexity and finesse are complemented by cedar and vanilla in the long, lingering finish.  Polished, yet intense, this wine is to savor now or cellar."   the 1999 won Gold at 2003 International Wine Competition; Gold at the 2003 Florida State Fair International and Gold at the 2003 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

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GEYSER PEAK WINERY has received the "Best U.S. Wine Producer" award from the 2003 International Wine & Spirits Competition.  Please feel free to applaud.

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WILLIAM GRANT & SONS, INC. has released some lovely Italian wines from CASTELLO DI FONTERUTOLI and TENUTA BELGUARDO.  Castello di Fonterutoli is an innovative winery in Tuscany.  Its Chianti Classico wines represent modern-style Tuscan wines.  Fonterutoli was one of the first to cease using white grapes in its Chianti blends, producing wines with incredible concentration, and also explored the "Super-Chianti" concept to bring back prestige to the Chianti region.  The 2000 Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico D.O.C.  is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The flagship wine is aged 18 months in barriques.   A shining symbol of the region-wide change from Super Tuscan to Super Chianti, the wine resembles the grand vin of the French chateaux.  It's elegant characteristics come from the belief in the quality of the terroir.  The wine expresses aromas of incredible intensity and persistence with aromas of black cherries and red currants with hints of tabac and mint.  It's full in the mouth, has great density and an elegant finish with lengthy tannins.   The Fonterutoli 2001 Chinati Classico is well respected in the region.  It is 100% Sangiovese and presents a spicy ad toasty range of aromas that open to succulent fruit and mineral hints.  It's a supple wine with well balanced tannins and acidty, well structured.     Tenuta Belguardo is a new estate owned by the Mazzei family of Castello di Fonterutoli and these releases debut its range of red wines from the Maremma region.  Located on the southern coast of Tuscany, the vineyards benefit from a strong maritime influence.  Seeing the potential in this region, the Mazzei family wanted to find the perfect location to make world-class wines.   After looking at dozens of estates, they chose Belguardo in the 1990s and began aggressive replanting.  The fruits of their labor are beginning to show now.  The 2001 Tenuta Belguardo IGT Maremma Toscana $64 is a remarkable accomplishment that results from a first selection of grapes, 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot.  The 2001 Tenuta Belguardo Serrata di Belguardo IGT Maremma Toscana $44, its first release, is made from the remaining grapes of the same vineyards.  The Tenuta Belguardo Poggio Bronzone Morellino di Scansano D.O.C. $29 is made from 100% hand-picked Sangiovese.  The results are extraordinary for the quality of these young wines (average vine age is five years) and gives a preview to great wines from Belguardo.

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Special Section on Port (prices vary store to store)
PORTO is an especially warming and wonderful wine.  I recently tasted the following Ports--what a wonderful opportunity to enjoy a number of styles with a variety of foods.  As always, walnuts, blue cheeses, and chocolate accompany Port superbly. Surprisingly, these fortified wines can actually accompany meal-time foods--especially sweet dishes representing oriental cuisines. There are various Port styles to enjoy:  Whether Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage, Reserve (also Vintage Character), Ruby, Tawny, Aged Tawny or single quinta Porto--there is definitely something delightful bound for your glass. Like champagne, Porto comes only from a single region in one country--Portugal's Douro Valley.  Nonetheless, I've found a lovely product from Australia, Rosemount's Old Benson Tawny Port, that is just too delicious to deny. 

Taylor Fladgate Vintage 2000; Fonseca Vintage 2000; Croft Vintage 2000; Delaforce Vintage 2000; Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas 2001 (single quinta port); Fonseca Quinta do Panascal 2001 (single quinta port -- new to the US, just being launched); Taylor Fladgate LBV 1997; Fonseca LBV 1997; Croft LBV 1997; Taylor Fladgate Aged 20 Year Old Tawny; Fonseca Aged 10 Year Old Tawny; Croft "Distinction" (vintage character port); Croft LBV 1997; Delaforce 10 Year Old Aged Tawny "His Eminence's Choice"; Delaforce 20 Year Old Aged Tawny "Curious & Ancient";  W. & J. Graham's Six Grapes Reserve Porto; Dow's Trademark Reserve Porto; Dow's 10 Year Old Tawny Porto; Smith Woodhouse 10 Year Old Tawny Porto; W. & J. Graham's 20 Year Old Tawny Porto; Smith Woodhouse 1973 Colheita Porto; Smith Woodhouse 1982 Madalena Vintage Porto; Quinta do Vesuvio 2001 Vintage Porto;  W. & J. Graham's 1991 Vintage Porto; Sandeman Founders Reserve; Cockburn's 10 Year Old Tawny

 


 

© 2003 Sarah Jane English

Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com

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