The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  61st Edition
 

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH (prices vary store to store) ($ is Best Buy)

Merlot:


 

WINERY OF THE MONTH: J. LOHR WINERY

J.LOHR wines have been well-made wines for decades.  Jerry Lohr was one of a handful of pioneers in the Central Coast who stayed convinced of the land's worth until his wines proved he was right.  Today J. LOHR VINEYARDS and WINES is well known for it highly successful Estates Series.  However, J. Lohr also offers a Vineyard Series and a Cuvée Series. 
    In the late 1960’s, Jerry Lohr investigated grape growing regions throughout California.  His farming background helped him understand and respect the importance of soil quality, climate and location.  This knowledge brought him to California’s Central Coast region and in the early 1970s he planted 280 acres of wine grapes in the Arroyo Seco appellation of Monterey County, and in 1974 completed his winery in San Jose.  Additional land purchases brought total acreage to 2,000, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other red varietals  and an adjacent winery and barrel facility was built.   Vineyard expansion (1988) in the Arroyo Seco now includes 900 acres of Chardonnay and other cool climate varietals such as Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Valdiguié.
       J. Lohr wines compete with the finest in the world, using a style that focuses on flavor and complexity through vineyard selection, technology and innovation. Jerry Lohr offers three tiers of wines produced from estate vineyards – J. Lohr Cuvée Series, J. Lohr Vineyard Series and J. Lohr Estates.  In addition J.Lohr has three tiers that meet everyday and entry-level wine consumption needs - Crosspoint Vineyards, Cypress and Painter Bridge.
    J. Lohr Cuvée Series - limited production produced only during extraordinary vintages.  Cuvée PAU blends at least 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. Cuvée St. E is produced from over 50% Cabernet Franc the remainder comprised of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot.  Cuvée POM blends 50% Merlot with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot.  Each of these wines competes with the most expensive wines produced in Bordeaux and California. We have positioned the Cuvée Series as our "artistic expression of flavor".
    J. Lohr Vineyard Series - limited production and with utmost quality, the Vineyard Series is J. Lohr Winery’s entrée into the luxury wine category. The Arroyo Vista Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco A.V.A. of  Monterey County produces the most intensely scented, complex Chardonnay. The Hilltop
Cabernet, on the highest, best-drained slope in the Paso Robles holdings, produces the most potent, darkly colored fruit and a wine of  power and great style.   Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is grown just north of the town of St. Helena in the heart of the Napa Valley – home of the finest Sauvignon Blancs in the country.
    J. Lohr Estates - a line of extraordinary quality, estate-produced varietals from Monterey County and Paso Robles. All aspects are controlled  from viticulture to bottling to ensure “flavor second to none.” J. Lohr Estates includes the Riverstone Chardonnay,  Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon, South Ridge Syrah, Bay Mist White Riesling, Wildflower Valdiguié, Los Osos Merlot and Bramblewood Zinfandel.
    J. Lohr Cuvée:  The Artistic Expression of Flavor -- J. Lohr Cuvée designated wines are produced in extremely small quantities, and represent an artistic approach to winemaking using similar blending philosophies practiced by the Grand Cru Chateaux from Pauillac, St. Emilion and Pomerol. Our Cuvée PAU is a blend of at least 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance made of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec.  Cuvée St. E is produced from over 50% Cabernet Franc, with the remainder comprised of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot.    Cuvée POM is over 50% Merlot blended with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot.  Each wine competes with the most expensive wines produced in Bordeaux and California.

 

NEWS

CHATEAU MONTELENA petitioned for a Calistoga AVA, the northern-most Napa Valley appellation district.  Calistoga is the last Napa Valley township to petition the Federal government for AVA status.  As a winner at the 1976 Paris Tasting, which placed California wines as world-class, it seemed fitting that Chateau Montelena spearhead this petition.
~Chateau Montelena 2001 Chardonnay celebrates its 30th year.  The original 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded the top rating at the famous 1976 Paris Tasting, the results of which stunned the wine world and proved a turning point in elevating California wines to world-class status.
~Futures Program: Chateau Montelena announced that the sale of the Futures 2001 vintage Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon will begin in March. As this Futures program enters its sixth year, it remains the only fully realized futures program among U.S. wineries.  Chateau Montelena sells approximately half of its total Estate Cabernet production to individuals and restaurants around the world through its Futures offerings.

GRAND TETON LODGE COMPANY (GTLC) has announced a deep discount for new 2004 shoulder-season meeting programs booked at Jackson Lake Lodge prior to March 1, 2004-- package available May 21 through June 10 and September 20 through October 10, 2004.  The package includes up to 25 percent off room rates, complimentary activities such as horseback riding and Snake River float trips, sponsored breakfasts and receptions as well as up to $2,500 off the master account for the meeting. The amount of the discount and incentives offered are based on the food and beverage program and number of rooms reserved.
For more information about Grand Teton Lodge Company or to make room reservations, call (307) 543-3100 or visit www.gtlc.com                                         

BUENA VISTA has a new winemaker, JEFF STEWART.  Allied Domecq Wines Executive Winemaker Nick Goldschmidt announced the Stewart will manage the winemaking, enology, and quality control departments and will be directly responsible for the day-to-day winemaking activities at the Carneros winery.
His work at Robert Keenan Winery, Laurier, De Loach, Mark West, Kunde and most recently La Crema, gives Jeff a wealth of experience and an established reputation for quality. His deft hand with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in particular make him a perfect fit for the Carneros position.

MON DOCTEUR LE VIN  (Yale University Press, 45 pages, $19.95), had a holiday season debut to much acclaim.  President and Trustee of The McBride Foundation Christien Ducker says, "Like the 1936 predecessor, we hope to become a timeless book in the chronicles of the wine industry."    

PERSONALWINE founder Alex Andrews is offering personalized bottles of wine for every occasion.  Your private label will be designed to suit you.  Gift baskets also available.  Contact: www.personalwine.com, tel. 512/476-9463, fax. 512/472-0174

RODNEY STRONG VINEYARDS has acquired Rockaway Vineyards in Alexander Valley.  The 516 acres increases the ability to control more red wine production.

GEYSER PEAK Winery was named "Best U.S. Wine Producer" at  The International Wine & Spirit Competition, in London's  Guild Hall.  The awards are among the most rigorously  judged.

ARTEMIS, there's a goddess in your glass--a new blend of estate and non-estate wines from Stag's Leap Wine Cellars.

KENDALL-JACKSON has released the VINWOOD 2000 North Coast Merlot $30, a new restaurant-exclusive wine that offers "superior quality and value" to those restaurateurs and chefs who want to elevate their premium wine by-the-glass and list offerings.

GREENWOOD RIDGE VINEYARDS grows grapes on 16 estate acres in the new Mendocino Ridge appellation.  These limited production, award winning, dramatically labeled (Allan is a graphic artist)  wines show well at wine competitions, winning a "Best of Show" award in various wine competitions since 1988-- with a small lot annual production of  7000 cases.   In 2003 he received the George Zeni Memorial Award by Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance--as "winegrower of the year representing outstanding stewardship of the land, community service and producing the highest quality grapes in Mendocino County."

QUINTESSA is the expression of Agustin Huneeus idea of the best.  His daughter, Valerie Huneeus (scientist and viticulturist)  developed and manages the vineyard.  They have released the 2000 vintage.  (Please see below).

GRGICH HILLS has announced the grand opening of GRGICH HILLS HOSPITALITY CENTER on February 22, 2004.  After 26 years, the new center is finally ready, 1829 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, California 94573; (707) 963-2784
             
 


 

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)

JOSEPH PHELPS vineyards and home vineyards are in Spring Valley near St. Helena, on a 600-acre ranch characterized by rolling hills, California native oaks, and 160 acres of meticulously tended vines.  It was founded in 1972. 
The first Phelps wine, 1973 Johannisberg Riesling, was introduced in the fall of 1974.  Since then, production has grown to 100,000 cases annually, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot serving as the winery's core varietals. The Phelps portfolio — in years when weather conditions permit — produces  luscious dessert wines made from Scheurebe and Semillon.
Long known for his innovative spirit and passion for quality, Joe Phelps pioneered a number of 'firsts' in the early years of the winery.  The 1974 Insignia — released in the spring of 1978 — was the first Bordeaux-style blend produced in California under a proprietary label. The release of the 1974 Syrah
in 1977 sparked industry-wide interest in a remarkable French varietal whose plantings in California had disappeared and been virtually forgotten for over half a century. And in 1990, after years of research, a whole new family of Rhone-style wines was introduced under the Vin du Mistral label and included Syrah, Viognier, Grenache Rosé, and a delicious red wine blend called Le Mistral.

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ST. SUPERY CEO Michaela Rodeno says their style for eleven years was distinctly un-Merlot'ish.  "The wine had plenty of structure--perhaps because the Dollarhide fruit and a generous contribution of cabernet sauvignon--and was a rather muscular Merlot instead of the soft, easy wine that most expect,"  she said.  Now, however, Winemaker Michael Beaulac, has changed the style to suit his preference for a rounder, softer, more approachable wine with juicy cherry-berry character.  ST. SUPERY 2000 Napa Valley Merlot ($22) is the first vintage bearing his mark."

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JARVIS (please see full story below) is an extraordinary place.  I visited the winery some years ago, and even though I've visited hundreds of wineries through the years, it is truly unique.  The Jarvis winemaking facility is totally contained within 45,000 square feet of cave tunneled into the Vacas Mountains.  It is four miles east of the town of Napa. Visually and technically, it is a masterpiece.  Many of the finest wines come from caves due to the invariable temperature and high humidity levels natural to caves.   Typically, caves are used to age wine in barrels,  since they're just not big enough for other winery operations, particularly the fermentation tanks. Tunneling techniques, however, have advanced in the past 30 years so that William Jarvis and his associates could build  the large underground winery.   As the cave extends farther into the mountain, chambers become larger, so that the last one could contain a basketball court.  Even the big fermentation tanks are underground, preserving the natural beauty of the outside environment.   Capitalizing on the natural underground water, the stream and waterfall running through the center of the winery maintain an ideal humidity level for the barrel-aging wines.  www.jarviswines.com    All the wines are made from 100% Jarvis estate grapes.

 

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JADE MOUNTAIN 2001 La Provencale, California $15 is a blend of traditional southern Rhone varietals and pays tribute to the easy drinking wines of the South of France.  Mourvedre, the foundation of the wine, comes from centuries-old vines that are dry-farmed on sand to reach an unusual level of concentration, balance and ripeness.   The Mourvedre is blended with three mountain-grown grape varietals: Grenache, Syrah and a touch of Viognier--to boost the bouquet and integrate the tannins.  Enjoy with bistro-type foods, polentas, risottos, ham and ribs.

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CANOE RIDGE 2001 Merlot, Columbia Valley $20: " . . . displays elegant, classic Merlot flavors--raspberry and rich cocoa-chocolate aromas and flavors plus a smooth mouthfeel make it good with grilled meats and vegetables like lamb with rosemary, richly flavored fish like grilled swordfish with garlic potatoes and a ripe Brie.

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KENWOOD Artist's Series marked its 25th anniversary with the 1999 Artist Series Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon--the product of a sensational vintage--with the label art by Rolph Scarlett.   The advent of the series in 1975 had a simple premise: handcraft the finest Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon possible and bottle each vintage with a unique label of fine art.  Grapes for the 1999 wine were selected from the Lindholm and Montecillo Vineyards high in the Mayacamas Mountains.  Their thin, rocky soils and western exposure are ideal for producing small crops of intensely flavored cabernet  grapes.  Deep color and opulent aromas of blackberry and black cherry with mint and cedar notes, lead to a mouth-filling, harmonious wine with fine-grained tannins and a firm structure.  Get two bottles--one for now and one to cellar.

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STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS has released two wines.  The 2000 bottling of Merlot was about 20% smaller that the previous vintage since the some of the fruit failed to meet the demanding standards.  From Arcadia Vineyards, the 2001 Chardonnay continues to present a new defining style.    Both wines deserve attention and will reward it.  There's a goddess named  ARTEMIS in your glass, something new from estate and non-estate blending.

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ZACA MESA has a long history of producing Rhone-style wines.  "In 1978, long before most wineries thought of growing Syrah, Zaca Mesa dedicated a section of the estate vineyard to this grape.  Nicknamed the Black Bear Block, it is now the oldest Syrah block on the Central Coast," says Director of Marketing Amoreena Bremgartner.  Now there's a new label that gives a visual reminder of our commitment to quality."   Over the years the estate vineyard has excelled in growing Rhone varietals, and recently each of the 247-acres has been reviewed for replanting to a possibly better-suited varietal.  You'll enjoy these wines.

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ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS has released new wines.  The 2002 Estate 100%, malolactic Chardonnay has 70% stainless steel fermented wine and  30% fermented and aged nine months in oak barrels (25% new).  The 2002 Merlot has 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc and was aged 14 months in 25% new oak.  The 2001 Two Barrel blend is composed of 70% Syrah and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged 14 months in 25% new 60-gallon French and American oak barrels.

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MOON MOUNTAIN VINEYARD, once Carmenet Moon Mountain, has released two wines.  MOON MOUNTAIN VINEYARD 2002 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (75%) Semillon (25%), Edna Valley $16 comes from the Paragon Vineyard and fermented in oak.  Two clones produce aromas of citrus, melon, mineral and herbs.  Semillon fills out the mouthfeel by softening the acidity and contributes ripe fig and honey aromas.  Crisp and refreshing, the wine complements herbed and spiced dishes, especially Pacific Rim and Mediterranean foods.  MOON MOUNTAIN VINEYARD 2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley $40: "We have been organically farming this magnificent red soil--74 acres with 20 blocks--vineyard for the past five years, the earliest cabernet sauvignon grapes are now 35 years old.  Our low-yielding mountain vines produced intensely concentrated grapes with extraordinary ripe flavors and well-integrated tannins.  Pair with filet mignon with blue cheese or grilled flank steak stuffed with mushrooms and basil."

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STEVENOT 2000 Tempranillo, Sierra Foothills $22 has been awarded five gold and two silver medals from major wine competitions.  This Spanish varietal (pronounced tem-prah-NEE-yoh) is the primary grape in Rioja and if often described as rich, fruity, full and deep.  It is the most pedigreed grape of Spain.  Stevenot Winery in Murphys, California, premiered its first 100% Tempranillo in 1998.    "The 2000 exhibits all the complex aromas of a find Rioja, combined with new world forward fruit.   Layers of dark chocolate and blackberry are integrated with subtle oak--aged in American oak 14 months--with fine tannins and layers of flavors, a feast in itself."   STEVENOT Albarino claims to be Spain's most distinguished white grape.  You can try this wine in the tasting room only--a good reason to travel to the winery.

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CARMENET has been making appellation wines from California's North for over 20 years.  In the fall of 2002, CARMENET was acquired by Beringer Blass Wine Estates, which with its rich vineyard resources and winemaking expertise, brought new opportunities to the brand.  Winemaker Ron Goss says, "Carmenet had a legacy of good wines, a good reputation and most fortunately a couple of key vineyard contracts that gave me access to the same fruit that had g one into some of its most interesting wines.  I came to think of Carmenet as having good bone structure; it just needed a little fleshing out to make it more exciting."  The North Coast Series focuses on varietal character and expression of place and includes: Evangehlo Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel $22; Sonoma County Merlot $24; Hansen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc $16; Napa Valley Chardonnay $20; Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon $25 and Sonoma Valley Cabernet Franc $26.  CARMENET also makes a 'fighting-varietal' wine priced at a good value called Cellar Selections for $9.  www.carmenetwinery.com

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KENWOOD has released two single vineyard Zinfandels.  While the best vineyards are situated at sites with superb growing conditions, no two sites are identical.  Grapes grown in different location taste differently--unique expressions of the soil, climate and topography in which they're grown. KENWOOD has been making Sonoma County Zinfandel for more than 30 years and two vineyards consistently have shown their excellence.  The newly released Jack London and Reserve Mazzoni wines are true expressions of place.

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YORKVILLE CELLARS in Mendocino, County  produces five Bordeaux varietals and 2003 was kind to these grapes in California, unlike the vintage in France.  The summer season on the cool side slowed the ripening--better for flavor development.   YORKVILLE is one of only a handful of wineries growing and bottling the five red grapes of Bordeaux.  Each has its individual characteristics.  In previous vintages, the organically grown wines have shown well too,  all having won awards.

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CHALONE WINE ESTATES announced the release of several wines from EDNA VALLEY VINEYARDS,  DYNAMITE VINEYARDS, ECHELON and SAGELANDS.

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LAFOND WINERY and VINEYARDS' Santa Rita Hills Syrah took top honors from the new Santa Barbara AVA.  The LAFOND 2001 Syrah SRH $18 shows the deep, rich complexity of the new appellation.  The SRH designation on the label signals the intent of Winemaker Bruce McGuire to blend a selection of vineyards from the Santa Rita Hills AVA.   Located in the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Rita Hills is a cold climate region where grapes benefit from a very long growing season.  With the Syrah harvest commonly stretching into late November, there's impressive complexity and intensity resulting from long hang time.  Three vineyards spread harvest over a six-week period as the vineyards ripened at various times.  The Syrah character was enhanced by barrel aging in an assortment of barrels--40% new.. The wine won "Best of Show Red Wine, Monterey Wine Competition; Double Gold, San Francisco Int'l Wine Competition; Gold Medal, Santa Barbara County Wine Competition; Gold Medal Orange County Fair Wine Competition.

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BENNETT FAMILY 2001 Reserve Russian River Chardonnay $15: "aromas of stone fruit of peaches and plums, citrus blossoms and jasmine infuse the mid-palate with a rich texture and a finish that lingers, fruit dominates over oak, pair with salmon, roasted chicken or grilled pork"

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DUTTON GOLDFIELD 2001 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley--Green Valley $35: "Dutton Ranch farms over 60 unique vineyards in the coolest areas of Russian River Valley. This wine blends four of them.  2001 had a warm, late summer, then a cool, foggy fall that produced a slow, late ripening and protracted harvest.  The wines showed bright fruit and good tannin/acid balance from the beginning.  This wine has black cherry and red berries with a touch of vanilla and spice. Mixed berry fruit follows with cinnamon and coriander and in the producer's style, the wine show supple tannins, moderate alcohol and a sweet berry finish."

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CLASSIC WINES OF CALIFORNIA consistently presents well made wines of good value.  FOREST GLEN Winemaker Ed Moody has made wines to be full of fruit, cherry flavors, notes of earth and spice and most importantly, to be drinkable now.     Ed is fond of saying that he makes wines that people love.  It's often  difficult to find such good wines for this price!   The company is also presenting three wines from the Central Valley--Napa Creek, all offer rich flavors and character that Napa Valley is famous for.

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WILD HORSE WINERY & VINEYARD, in the heart of California's Central Coast, was a pioneer in creating wines that express this region's unique character.  Distinguished by a cooling influence, the Central Coast is a vast appellation of diverse climate and soils and well established among world-class winegrowing regions.  From the cool valley floor of Santa Maria to the diurnal temperature swings of Paso Robles and prevailing wind of the Monterey Bay, WILD HORSE wines reflect this environment with full, fruit-forward expressions of varietal character.

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 Gallo Family's GALLO OF SONOMA wines have presented six new releases for your pleasure.  These wines continue to receive international recognition for excellence year after year.  The limited production wines are reasonably priced for all the effort that goes into making them!  And the larger production of the excellent value Sonoma County Chardonnay consistently wins multiple awards around the world.  Gina Gallo says, "Our Single Vineyard Wines* are an intimate portrait of a specific vineyard, a statement of the unique land and climate characteristics we ultimately capture in the wine."

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FERRARI-CARANO has been making sought-after Chardonnays since 1985.  After 16 years, FERRARI-CARANO 2001Chardonnay Alexander Valley $27 retains its classic style.  "We blend  seven different clones of  fruit from eight prized vineyards in Alexander Valley, "Winemaker George Bursick says.  "The combination of characteristics results in 60 different lots with widely varying flavors and textures.  Then we blend them for the FERRARI-CARANO 2001 Chardonnay $27."  Pair with lobster, salmon and shrimp; chicken, poultry  and veal; butter sauces and cheeses.  FERRARI-CARANO 2000 Merlot, Sonoma $26 also blends special lots.   With richness and depth, the wine is smooth and velvety in the mouth, balancing rich concentrated fruit with supple, well-rounded tannins, a full and robust body with hints of chocolate, black currant and plum,  Enjoy with beef, bacon, duck, lamb and game, red sauces and blue cheeses.  FERRARI-CARANO 2002 Sauvignon Blanc $20 is crisp and well-balanced, round and lush mouth feel, a marvelous food friendly wine, pair with crab, shrimp, scallops, trout, tuna and poultry, citrus and vinaigrette sauces, Parmesan cheese and various vegetables.  FERRARI-CARANO 2000 Siena $30 reflects the owners' Italian heritage.  It is Sangiovese Based wine combined with Cabernet Sauvignon.  It has ripe fruit flavors and soft tannins and is rich with raspberry and cherry flavors, it's delicious with hearty chicken dishes, duck, lamb and braised pork; root vegetables, wild mushrooms and wild rice dishes' citrus fruits and figs.

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QUINTESSA has the quintessential wine estate.  Located in the northeastern corner of Rutherford, the Napa Valley property includes a valley, a lake, a river, five hills, four microclimates and many soil types as well as rich flora and fauna.  The land has been carefully matched to a large selection of rootstocks and clones.  The result is a range of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc that allows wide stylistic options in the wine every vintage.  According to Valeria Huneeus, vineyard master, "Serene best describes the 2000 growing season.  A rainy winter with rather cold temperatures gave way to a very tranquil spring; there were neither freeze alerts nor dramatic heat spells.  The vines--always in tune with Mother Nature--responded with a well-balanced display of fruit and leaves.  Eventually, the fruit was able to dangle on the vines for a long time, evolving slowly to reach full maturity.  QUINTESSA 2000 (72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc) expresses the season's ideal warm, rather than hot, weather that culminated in beautifully ripe tannins, an elegant wine of deep berry flavors and a sweet, broad mouthfeel with a soft tannin finish."

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GENESIS by Hogue Cellars shows Merlot's rich fruit character and soft silky tannins, making it very popular.  Washington state has long days and cool nights for the grape's growing season and merlot grapes love it.  Vintage 2000 had few surprises--a mild spring and a couple of frost incidents that transitioned nicely into a normal summer.  "The expected quick harvest stretched out and the moderate crop loads were allowed to ripen with optimal phenol maturity, very good color and tannin development."   GENESIS by Hogue Cellars 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington $17: "bright fruit flavors and textures"

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ST. CLEMENT 2001 Chardonnay Napa Valley $16 is "a joy to behold," according to Winemaker Aaron Pott.  "It explodes luxurious golden rays from the glass with a nose that leads you to an orchard of richly laden trees of ripe fruit enhanced by enticing notes of vanilla, nutmeg and clove."  If that statement doesn't make you to race out and buy a bottle of this wine--you don't enjoy wine!

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HAWK CREST by Stag's Leap Wine Cellars make some lovely wines to enjoy each daily.

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Perfect Time for Ports:  PORT is just the ticket this time of year for sipping beside a fire with roasted walnuts and dried cranberries, with blue cheeses, or a chocolate fancy.  There are a number of good ones in various styles.  Whether Vintage, LBV, Vintage Character, Ruby, Tawny, Aged Tawny or White Porto--there is definitely something delightful bound for your glass.  The following list of brands are good choices for Ports.

 

JARVIS, Unique Winery and Distinguished Wines:

JARVIS is an extraordinary place.  I visited the winery some years ago, and even though I've visited hundreds of wineries through the years, it is truly unique.  The Jarvis winemaking facility is totally contained within 45,000 square feet of cave tunneled into the Vacas Mountains.  It is four miles east of the town of Napa. Visually and technically, it is a masterpiece.  Many of the finest wines come from caves due to the invariable temperature and high humidity levels natural to caves.   Typically, caves are used to age wine in barrels,  since they're just not big enough for other winery operations, particularly the fermentation tanks. Tunneling techniques, however, have advanced in the past 30 years so that William Jarvis and his associates could build  the large underground winery.   As the cave extends farther into the mountain, chambers become larger, so that the last one could contain a basketball court.  Even the big fermentation tanks are underground, preserving the natural beauty of the outside environment.       “This circular design makes a very efficient operation, allowing the winemaker and his lab to be a few hundred feet from the aging galleries,” states William Jarvis.
   Capitalizing on the natural underground water, the stream and waterfall running through the center of the winery maintain an ideal humidity level for the barrel-aging wines. The cascading water also has a calming effect.  All the wines are made from 100% Jarvis estate grapes.     During harvest, grapes are transported in small 30lb. lugs.  "We utilize these small lugs rather than gondolas to prevent premature crushing," Dimitri says.  "Once in the cave, the grapes won't see daylight until they are sold as wine.  Fermentation begins in both upright and rotary fermenters.  Our upright tanks are shorter and wider than most which improves the cap ratio for optimum color and flavor extraction from the skins.  I'm extremely proud of our two 14-ton rotary fermenters, which have a nearly perfect cap ratio. They're used to produce the blending wines for our reserve wines.  After fermentation, wines are stored to settle in upright Radoux oak cuvees--numbered staves arrive for assembly in our facility by Radoux coopers.  Each vintage of Jarvis wines are aged in 100% new French oak barrels.  Single tiers of  barrels are stored in the aging galleries of the cave, where they rest comfortably at a steady, year-round temperature of 61°F, and a humidity level of 80%. When blending occurs, it is often done in barrel to achieve perfect integration of varietal components long before bottling."     Although more laborious, Mr. Jarvis and Dimitri Tchelistcheff believe the benefits help make JARVIS wines ultra premium quality. 

 

 


 

© 2004 Sarah Jane English

Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com

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