The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  58th Edition
August 10,  2003

 TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH ($best buy) (prices vary store to store)
Varietal: Mixed (if you can't find these vintages, try currently available vintage

• MERITUS 1999 by Fall Creek Vineyards (92% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, 1% malbec) $30 is named for the Latin word
  that means "of high merit or excellence." This edition--the first since 1996--truly qualifies. Fall Creek's blended red wine is Texas'
  best yet! I've been tasting Texas wines for 20 years, and Ed and Susan Auler and crew have put together a deliciously memorable
  and praiseworthy wine. It has layers of boysenberry, blackberry, coconut, cranberry, spicy oak, a hint of leather and nutmeg with
  a beautifully melded complexity. It is balanced by silky tannins and lusciousness. Hope you can find a bottle of this limited
  production. Well worth the search! 100 gold points! 
• DUTTON GOLDFIELD 2001 Zinfandel, Morelli Lane Vineyard, Dutton Ranch, Russian River $35
• SYMMETRY (Rodney Strong Vineyards Meritage) 1996 Alexander Valley Red Table Wine $50 (60%Cab/30%Merlot/10%Cab Franc)
• ABUNDANCE 2000 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley $35
• BERINGER 2002 Johannisberg Riesling, California $6 $
• CHATEAU POTELLE 2002 Riviera, Rose Wine, Paso Robles $15
• GEYSER PEAK 2001 Gewurztraminer, California $7$
• ST. SUPERY 2002 Moscato, California $15
• ROBERT CRAIG 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley $45
• BOLLINGER 1996 Grande Année, Brut, France $90
• BOLLINGER Special Cuvee Brut $45
• BUENA VISTA 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County $7$
• KENDALL-JACKSON 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Vintner's Reserve, California $10$
• CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2002 Gewurztraminer, Sonoma $16
• LOUIS M. MARTINI 2001 Gewurztraminer, Del Rio Vineyard "5 Nail" $16
• PRIMUS by Veramonte 1999 (60% Carmenere) $20
• MILLSREEF 2000 Elspeth One, Hawkes Bay Red Wine, New Zealand $35

Winery of the Month: BOLLINGER CHAMPAGNE has two new releases and I suggest you enjoy these lovely wines now--have more for the holidays.  Rather than waiting for an occasion,  create your own--everyday should be special.    I've visited my friends at Bollinger in Aÿ, France, many times over the years and have had some of the most gracious experiences of my life in the home of Christian Bizot, director of Bollinger from 1978-1994 .   One evening for dinner (1988) he sent the maid to the cellar for one of only three remaining bottles of BOLLINGER 1924!  I felt very special indeed!  It was intensely rich with flavors of coconut and apricots, dense with a lovely texture and a medley of subtle fruits.  We sighed as we watched the few remaining bubbles float gently to the top.  Obviously, it was a memorable wine!  BOLLINGER sparkling wines remain as exceptional as I recall them from my first visits--and I've visited Champagne regularly throughout the years.   Madame Bollinger directed the House after her husbands death in World War Two.  She is famous for having said "I drink my Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad.  Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone.  When I have company I consider it obligatory.  I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am.  Otherwise I never touch it ‑ unless I'm thirsty."  Lily Bollinger - London Daily Mail, October 17, 1961.
    The House of Bollinger, founded in 1829, remains independent, a grande marque house and family controlled. The firm owns 346 acres of vineyards with a high average ratio of 98% on the official Champagne vineyard classification scale.   Bollinger has received the Royal Warrant as Official Champagne Purveyor from five British monarchs and is now the preferred Champagne of Charles, Prince of Wales.   The Bollinger firm is known for its traditional, flavorful and full-bodied style, best exemplified by the Special Cuvée and the Grande Année.   Bollinger also owns the only pre-phylloxera vineyard in Champagne, making the extremely rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises Champagne.   Family-owned and managed, Champagne Bollinger is renowned for including a high percentage of pinot noir in its blends, for using oak barrels for the first fermentation and cork-sealed magnums to age its reserve wines.  Bollinger champagnes also receive extra aging on the lees,  The house is known for the quality of its vineyards, a high percentage of which are family-owned.   The firm is particularly renowned for its non-vintage Special Cuvée, its prestige cuvée Grande Année, currently the 1996 vintage, and its rich, complex extra-aged on the lees R.D. (Recently Disgorged), currently the 1990 vintage.

• BOLLINGER SPECIAL NV $45: "The grapes are primarily from Champagne's grands and premiers crus. Two-third of the grapes come from Bollinger's own vineyards, which guarantees the quality and consistency of the wines.  30 crus from the noble vineyards of the Department of the Marne are used in Special Cuvée's blend, 83% of the grapes from grands and premiers crus of the Montagne de Reims and of the Côte des Blancs. These are mainly from Aÿ, Verzenay, Louvois, Mesnil s/Oger, Oger and Cuis.    The assemblage (blend) is primarily from Pinot Noir from grands and premiers crus. The blend for Special Cuvée is, on average, composed of: 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier.
  Special Cuvée is only produced from the Cuvée first grape pressing). Only when the harvest is superb does Bollinger also use the taille (second pressing) of chardonnay.  Special Cuvée is matured in Bollinger�s cellars for a minimum of two years. The ageing process at Bollinger is longer than the minimum required by the Champagne Appellation, never less than two years, which gives the wine the necessary time to achieve balance and liberate a full range of aromas.
  The Wine Spectator 91points : Consistently one of the best non-vintage cuvée in the powerful Bollinger style. A combination of freshness and maturity highlight this medium-bodied bubbly. The flavors evoke toast, nuts and citrus, while the vivid acidity keeps it all focused. Drink now through 2004.
• BOLLINGER 1996  Grande Année, FRANCE $90: "The Wine Spectator highly recommended BOLLINGER Grande Année 1996 received 95 points.   The winemakers description: "A glorious ‘96.  Full bodied and powerful. Complex nose of grains, ginger and baking bread turns to honey, citrus and nuts on the palate as it unfolds. Very firmly structured and intense, followed by a long, nutty aftertaste. A Champagne for food. Superb. Best from 2005 through 2020.    The House of B. only produces vintage champagnes in exceptional years, when the grapes have reached a perfect quality an maturity with a perfect balance between the acids and sugars.   Consequently, Grande Année represents such wines.  B. Grand Année remains a blended wine from crus and grapes varieties--so represents these house style. However, in this case the style depends on the characteristics of a given vintage.  It is the  best wine B. can produce.  Grapes come only from grands crus and premiers curs vineyards of 'Champagne.   16 crus were used in the assemblage of the Grande Année '96, 75% from grand and 25% from Premier.

Champagne Bollinger, recognized worldwide for commitment to its wines, and Riedel Crystal—recognized worldwide for designing fine wine glasses--have designed the Bollinger Champagne glass during this 30th anniversary of Riedel Crystal.  The glass accentuates Bollinger’s rich, complex wines of great depth, fruit, breeding, elegance, and structure as well as distinctive length and millions of tiny bubbles.  This limited edition glass is now available.   For information, please contact  www.DreyfusAshby.com

Event of the Month: Tasting Texas Food & Wine:  Texas wine makers attended a summer symposium  underwritten by The Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Foundation (a public charity dedicated to advancing wine and food industries through research and education)  and sponsored by the Texas Department of Agriculture.  It was an opportunity for Texas vintners and growers to participate in a course of study on vineyard management and winemaking.  The symposium was held at Fall Creek Vineyards.  Richard Smart, Visiting Professor of Viticulture, Cal Poly State University presented three lectures that addressed Texas issues: Climate and appropriate varietals; Canopy type,  and Vineyard management.  Mark Theis, maker of white wines at Kendall-Jackson, discussed "A Practical Approach to Managing Variables" including techniques for Sauvignon Blanc, matching Chardonnay clones to  barrels, and flaws like Brettanomyces and the culprit TCA that effects corks.   Along with tasting wine samples, Mark Theis explained how specific soils, land location, climatic effects and winemaking techniques influence the finished wine.  Participants could taste how a warmer, inland wine reflected tropical fruitiness while cooler coastal sites produced grapes with higher acidity and more citrus expression.   Following the symposium at Fall Creek, the Four Seasons Hotel offered a "Tasting of Texas Food and Wine."  Chef Quincy Erickson of Amuse Bouche Catering served "Corn & Goat Cheese Flan" and Chef Jeff Blank of Hudson's on the Bend served "Ancho Smashed Potatoes Topped with Smoked Quail."  Chef Kevin Williamson of Ranch 616 served "Quail Chili Frito Pie 'in the bag' with Grilled Pineapple Pico de Gallo" and Chef Robert McGrath of Roaring Fork served "Seared Scallops with Jalapeno Cole Slaw."  Chef Marion Gillcrist of La Traviata offered "Tomato Bruschetta,"  Chef Charles Mayes of Cafe Josie served "Shrimp & Blue Crab Cocktail" and Chef Fred Geesin of  "Zin American Bistro & Bar" had "Pastrami Venison Back strap on Herb Salad."  The Mansion at Judges' Hill Chef John Maxwell served "Curried Prince Edward Island Mussels" and Four Seasons Chef Elmar Prambs spread a colorful table with "Cinnamon Braised Beef Short Ribs, Truffle-Whipped Potatoes & Arugula & Shallot Dressing" and "Firecracker Shrimp over Cous Cous."  The delicious wines that accompanied this feast were Becker Vineyards 2002 Viognier and 2001 Claret; Alamosa 2000 Sangiovese and 2001 Viognier; Pleasant Hill Chardonnay and Merlot; Edmeades 1999 Zinfandel; Robert Pepi 2000 Sauvignon Blanc and 2001 Pinot Grigio; Haak Vineyards 2002 Blanc du Bois and 2002 Texas Cabernet Sauvignon; Llano Estacado 2000 Viviano and 2001 Cellar Select Chardonnay; McReynolds 2001 Texas Merlot and 2001 Texas Ruby Cabernet; Camelot 2000 Merlot and 2000 Syrah; Kendall-Jackson 1999 Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and 2001Grand Reserve Chardonnay; Fredericksburg 2002 Ehrenfelser Texas and 2001 Texas Sangiovese; Spicewood 2001 Sauvignon Blanc and 2000 Merlot; Fall Creek 2001 Chardonnay and 2002 Merlot; Driftwood 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2002 Viognier; La Crema 2001 Pinot Noir and 2001 Chardonnay, and Flat Creek's other label--Travis Peak Due Ami Semillion and 2002 Muscato D'Arancia.   On can only have a good time at these wonderful samplings.

NEWS

MESSINA HOF  Winery & Resort, Bryan, Texas,  offers Daytime or Evening Harvest activities.  Choose Day Package or Thematic Specialty Dinners scheduled weekends, July 19-August 17, 2003.  For  details, visit  www.messinahof.com and click on "Harvest Fun".

The El-BASHA Turkish Bath (Hamam), built by the Ottoman Turks in 1795 in today's Israeli port city of Akko , has been transformed into one of
the country’s most charming museums.  Abandoned since the late 1950’s, the El-Basha Hamam is a giant network of marble-lined steam rooms, domed massage areas, ornate scrubbing rooms and relaxation chambers.  "Here, in a ritual invented millennia ago by the Romans, Ottoman Turks would soothe away the day’s aches, sweat and grime in an atmosphere where gossip was exchanged and bodies soaked, near-boiled and then sprawled atop marble slabs to be scrubbed clean by beefy masseurs.  The whole experience has been captured in the new “Hamam Museum” - opened in June - that is the first restoration completed in Akko since the UNESCO status was announced in 2002.  Audio-Visual elements tell the story of the site.  Pewter sculptures of bathers recreate the Turkish Bath.  For information about AKKO: www.goisrael.com or call 1-888-77-Israel.

DRY CREEK VINEYARD announced that William (Bill) Knuttel joined DRY CREEK as winemaker in July 2003.  Knuttel previously was winemaker at
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards and Winery for seven years and spent 13 years at Saintsbury before Chalk Hill.  

STEVENOT recently received several medals at wine competitions: 2001 Tempranillo a gold at El Dorado County Fair; 2000 Tempranillo won five golds, 2000 Syrah a gold at Orange County and silver for 2000 Cabernet Franc; 1999 Gabriel Cabernet Sauvignon at Los Angeles County Fair and sliver for 2000 Cab Franc, 2000 Merlot and 2000 Old Vine Zin.  www.stevenotwinery.com

  SONOMA VALLEY WINE AUCTION on Labor Day weekend: August 28-September 1, 2003, various venues, theme is Mardi Gras.  Information (707) 935-0803, www.sonomavalleywine.com

GRAYSON COUNTY COLLEGE Viticulture & Enology, Fall Class Schedule 2003, Contact Dr. Roy Renfro (903) 463-8717, renfror@grayson.edu

LAFOND Winery & Vineyard 2001 Syrah, SRH has received three gold medals and a "Best of Show, Red," at recent wine competitions.  www.lafondwinery.com

KENDALL-JACKSON OPENS HEALDSBURG PLAZA TASTING ROOM: Heralding the fact that the small northern Sonoma County agricultural community of Healdsburg has transformed itself into one of wine country's trendiest destinations, Kendall-Jackson has opened a tasting room on the town square, August 1, 2003.  Situated on the tree-and boutique-lined Healdsburg Plaza, the new Kendall-Jackson tasting room will focus entirely on its upper-end and estate wines, including the Grand Reserve, Great Estates and Stature wines. The Kendall-Jackson Healdsburg Tasting Room is located at 337
Healdsburg Avenue and is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, call (707) 433-7102.

 

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)

BELVEDERE 2001 Healdsburg Ranches Chardonnay, Sonoma14: "  Fragrant, fruit-filled, with just the right delicate touch, the fruit comes from vines surrounding Healdsburg, one of the oldest and most celebrated stars in California's viticultural history.  Pear and peach fruit fill the glass,  wisps of vanilla,  a wink of  grapefruit,  aromas and flavors blossom with swirling, leaving the taste of lemon and sweet cream. To quaff, or as an accompaniment to subtle fare...it wears well, it's never boring, it charms both the sophisticated and the carefree: a perfect wine friend.  Three great wine appellations adjoin Healdsburg in Northern Sonoma: Alexander Valley,  Dry Creek Valley has more mountain influence, Russian River Valley's fog-washed mornings make it the coolest of the Healdsburg microclimates.

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WOODBRIDGE by Robert Mondavi has introduced its Select Vineyard Series.  Each of these four wines showcases the fruit and flavors of its fine Lodi appellations.   They represent the  best of the best from Woodbridge, celebrating its 25th anniversary this year.

• WOODBRIDGE SELECT VINEYARD SERIES 2001 Ghost Oak Chardonnay $11: " . . .from several of Lodi AVA's finest Chardonnay vineyards, the mesoclimates and soils--from gravelly of sandy loams to denser clay loams--add layers of character to Ghost Oak Chardonnay, named for the distinctive Tule fog of the Lodi delta region that creates ghostly images in the vineyards and knolls.  The wine has ideally balanced sugar and acidity with vibrant citrus, tropical and floral character.  It was half fermented in small oak to impart toasty vanilla and the balance in stainless steel to retain bright fruit character.  The barrel-fermented wine was barrel aged 12 months to impart silkiness and coconut nuances and then blended with the other just before bottling."
• WOODBRIDGE SELECT VINEYARD SERIES 2000 Clay Hollow Merlot $11: " . . . made from top-rated vineyards located in the windy hollows of the cool Lodi delta region, combination weather gives the wine rich black cherry flavors, nuances of cocoa and spice and a velvety finish.  For bigger bolder taste we aged the wine for over a year in small oak barrels. The resulting fruity character and silky tannins make it attractive and easy to enjoy, pair with chicken, pork tenderloin or grilled garlic swordfish." 
• WOODBRIDGE SELECT VINEYARD SERIES 2000 Fish Net Creek Old Vine Zinfandel  $11: "Fruit from old knurled vines gives deep, soft raspberry and blackberry character with nuances of black pepper and dried spices.  Warm vanilla tones form 15 months of barrel aging with a velvety finish."
• WOODBRIDGE SELECT VINEYARD SERIES 2000 Red Dirt Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon  $11: "Red dirt--that's the secret, vines struggling through it for nutrients encourages vine complexity and concentrated flavors of  blackberry fruit, dark chocolate and spice.  It has structure and balance from grape quality permitting extended skin contact ad oak aging for 15 months with new oak adding vanilla and toasty oak on long finish." 

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LOLONIS has always praised its large contingency of ladybugs, released annually at the right time to control spider mites, aphids and other soft-scale vineyard pests--a natural attribute of healthy vines.  A single adult ladybug can eat as many as 5,000 aphids in its four to six month life cycle (going dormant in winter).  Now after 40 years,  in honor of those busy little creatures, LOLONIS is releasing LADYBUG RED $13.   The wine blends Carignane (70%), Merlot (15%),  Napa Gamay (10%), and Zinfandel (5%).   This new creation goes with a large number of foods and is a nice starter to greet guests--chilled in both instances.  If serving outside--especially in Texas and like states--serve cooler yet.  The wine will only get warmer.   About the family, in 1914, when Tryfon Lolonis first saw the Redwood Valley, he must have sensed an immediate affinity between this new land and the old country he had left behind in Velherna, Greece.  Enotria! (land of the vines) he might have thought as he surveyed the sunny land: here was a place where both vines and a family could flourish.  Tryfon cleared the land and built a house for his bride-to-be, Eugenia Kalogeropoulos.  She had been 12 when he first saw her in Tripoli, Greece.  They never met, but a marriage was arranged and in 1920, when she was 16,  she arrived in San Francisco to join Tryfon.  Together they toiled in the vineyards and in time their efforts and union proved fruitful.  Ten children were born to them.  From the first harvest, they sold grapes to other winemakers.  During Prohibition, shipments to the Christian brothers and other religious winemakers kept them in business.  In the 1940s and 1950s, more winemakers bought Lolonis grapes--Charles Krug, Geyser Peak, Parducci, Sebastiani.  By the mid 1950s, a transformation began in the vineyards as son Nick applied lessons he learned from enology and viticulture at U.C. Davis.  He convinced his father to try organic farming,  and to keep pests away, he introduced beneficial ladybugs--a pivotal event that continues today.  In 1982, two brothers, Ulysses and Petros, established Lolonis Winery.

• LOLONIS 2002 Fumé Blanc, Redwood Valley $15: "Well balanced and structured Fumé. Apples and grass on the nose with flavors of sweet pears and apples on the palate that carry through a long, broad finish.  Organically grown grapes, 40 year old vines, 4x14 spacing with bi-lateral cordons, cover crops and leaf pulling are practiced to promote optimal vineyard conditions, and ladybugs - not chemicals - are used to combat pests."
• LOLONIS 2001 Chardonnay, Redwood Valley $20: "Ripe and tangy, with toasty oak, apricot, lemon, and butterscotch flavors that extend through the finish.  These grapes are organically grown on 50-year-old vines on 8x14 spacing with bi-lateral cordons. Cover crops and leaf pulling are practiced to promote optimal vineyard conditions. Ladybugs -- not chemicals -- are used to combat pests.    It won a Double Gold Medal at Tasters Guild 16th International Wine Judging (April, 2003) and a Gold Medal San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (January, 2003).
• LOLONIS 1999 Merlot, Private Reserve $28 : "Purple-garnet hue. Warm, heady aromas of red berry, citrus peel and blackberry with hints of red meat and caramel. Crisp acidity enlivens ripe flavors of black cherry, brambly blackberry, coffee and a touch of vanillin oak. Mocha note in the close."
•  LOLONIS 2000 Petros,  Heritage $70 : "Dark, ripe and complex, filled with rich berried fruit, chocolate and cherries. It is supple but with the tannic backbone expected of an age-worthy Merlot blend.  Viticulture Technique same as above, 35-60 year old vines planted on 8x14 spacing with bi-lateral cordons.
• LOLONIS 2000 Orpheus (Petite Sirah) Heritage $30: "Black hue with violet rim. Forward aromas of blackberry, milk chocolate, dust and oak with a whiff of coconut. Soft tannins lead to rich flavors of blackberry, walnut, black pepper, tobacco and nutmeg. Espresso accents the creamy close.  Viticulture Technique: Petite Sirah (8x10 spacing, dry farmed) and Valdiguie (8x14 spacing, irrigated) are grown organically on 50 year old vines.
• LOLONIS 2000 Zinfandel Redwood Valley $19: "Intense, with ripe flavors of black cherries, dried berries, with hints of chocolate. Nicely rounded tannins and a pleasing spice-noted finish.   Viticulture Technique same as above,  48 year old vines on bi-lateral cordons with 4x14 and 8x14 spacing.
  Accolades:  Tasters Guild 16th International Wine Judging (April, 2003) Gold Medal West Coast Wine Competition (March, 2003) Gold Medal                  ____________________________________________________________________________         
• FORESTVILLE 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, California $6: "A wine that is brilliant golden with a forward nose of fresh honeydew melon and grapefruit, lightly grassy with some toasted oak." 
• FORESTVILLE 2002 Zinfandel, California $6: "Complex aromas of rich cherries and spice, rounded rich flavors of raspberry, blackberry and subtle vanilla and a soft lasting finish."  

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ROBERT TALBOTT VINEYARDS--The Talbott family says their motto is hard work, strict standards of excellence and determined focus.  Robert and Audrey and son Robb moved to Carmel in 1950 and began a luxury tie company.   Robert sold his wife's hand-made ties along the coast.  European buying trips for silk also introduced them to wines.  In 1982 they founded Talbott Vineyards with their 24-acre Diamond T Estate Vineyard and built their first winery in Carmel Valley. The Corton-Charlemagne Chardonnay clone was planted at Diamond T in almost soil-free conditions of shale and granite with vines closely spaced.  The Talbotts hoped the vines' struggle to survive at Diamond T would give intense chardonnays.  It did.   Winemaker Sam Balderas  came in 1984--hired to deal with that difficult vintage--and has been there ever since.  "He brings continuity and experience to the winery, " Robert says, "and he shares our winemaking philosophy to honor the land with sustainable practices that enhance the vineyards.  In 1989, the Talbotts bought 125-acre River Road Vineyard in Salinas Valley and built their new winery there.   In 1994 they bought Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, a proven source of fine grapes, and became 100 percent an estate winery with direct control of all farming of their vineyards.
Talbott Vineyards produces estate chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah under four labels: TALBOTT, LOGAN, CASE, and KALI HART--each line with its own distinctive style.  Cases will stay small to ensure exacting quality standards for the distinctive handmade wines with intensity, balance, and finesse.
Robert Sharpe Talbott - Proprietor (artist, woodsman, builder, beekeeper, rancher, mechanic and businessman) built a cabin on land he named Diamond T after an antique "Diamond T" commercial truck Robb had restored.  Since the first vintage in 1983, Robb has overseen the day-to-day winery operations with many roles.   He remains an active manager, traveling across the country for in-person sales calls.

• TALBOTT 2000 Chardonnay, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard $42: ". . .  intense tropical fruit character and minerality with richness and finesse comes from distinctive blocks of Sleepy Hollow--a benchmark of quality for California Chardonnay.  Low yields increase concentration, minimal handling preserves the fruit's natural essence.  100 percent barrel fermented in French Oak and aged on lees for rich, toasty, complex character and excellent aging potential."
• CASE 1999  Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow, $42: "Grapes come from special blocks of Sleepy Hollow Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County.   Hand picked and sorted; long, cool fermentation in small open-top tanks; and cap punched down by hand, result in a full-bodied wine with a massive velvety texture. Aged in French Oak, CASE  Pinot Noir has excellent structure and ample soft tannins, which make it an ideal candidate for extended aging; yet the wine's ripe, forward fruit makes it an excellent wine to enjoy upon release."
• LOGAN 1999 Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow $20: ". . .  distinctly different style from CASE.  The vineyard sections for Logan Pinot Noir are carefully managed to limit yields and increase depth and concentration for a medium-bodied, very soft, silky tannins and huge ripe cherry/berry fruit accented by smoke and spice, crafted full enjoyment upon release."
• KALI HART 2001 Chardonnay, $12.50: " Kali Hart is the most recent addition to Talbott's wines--fresh and exuberant with medium body and the distinctive Talbott style of lush tropical fruit, toasty oak and minerals with a long citrus filled finish.   It has great acid balance, enjoy upon release.
  www.talbottvineyards.com

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ARBOR CREST is celebrating its 20th vintage and I am pleased to be reintroduced to the wines.  C. Harold Mielke, Jr., MD and Marcia Mielke founded Arbor Crest Wine Cellars in 1982 after becoming interested in wine in the early 1980s when California Chardonnay first gained prominence.  They established their winery on the grounds of the Mielke family’s cherry orchard.   Winemaker Kristina Mielke-van Löben Sels — the second generation of the Mielke family to oversee Arbor Crest — brings education and practical skill to her work.  A University of California at Davis fermentation science graduate, Kristina came to Arbor Crest after several years at Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg, California. Her husband, James van Löben Sels, is an experienced viticulturist, which complements Kristina’s skills nicely. Together, they understand the complexities of grape growing and wine making.  They also share duties as the winery’s general managers.

• 2000 SAUVIGNON BLANC, Bacchus Vineyard,Columbia Valley $12: "This wine is layered with citrus, honey and melon.  It was blended with Semillon to give added complexity in the finish.   Best Buy –  Wine Spectator
• 2000 CHARDONNAY,  Columbia Valley $14: ". . . is an enticing blend from three unique vineyard sites. Sagemoor’s Dionysus Block 12 Vineyard, nestled along the banks of the Columbia River, is a temperate site and yields the wonderful ripe pear, apricot and mango characteristics found in this wine. The Conner Lee Vineyard is a much cooler site and yields spicy citrus tones layered with honey. The Sundance Vineyard is the warmest location and yields a low crop that is extremely aromatic and delicate. The combination of these three vineyards yields a wonderfully rich wine that is supple in texture. Barrel fermented and aged in new and older French oak, this wine is full-bodied with layers of peach, apricot, honey and toasty oak flavors turning rich and creamy on the finish. 
• 1999 MERLOT, Columbia Valley 18: "The wine is an excellent example of a full-bodied Washington Merlot.  Ripe and concentrated, it  strings layers of intense raspberry, complex currant and blueberry notes, framed by spicy, vanilla-scented oak. Barrel-aged in French oak for eighteen months, this elegant wine finishes boldly with intense cherry, blackberry and plum flavors, lingering nicely on the palate. The vines are grown on original, ungrafted rootstock providing the grapes with intense varietal character.
• 2000 CABERNET SAUVIGNON, Columbia Valley $24:  "Complex and full-bodied, it is a blend from five unique vineyard sites in the Columbia Valley. The multiple layers of chocolate, red-currant, and plum explode on the palate, finishing with hints of spices and herbs from the French oak. Barrel-aged for twenty months, this wine displays intense dark berry fruit and a full-bodied character that Cabernet lovers cherish. It is our pleasure to present to you this memorable Cabernet Sauvignon.  Accolades:  '90' Wine Spectator, '90' Wine & Spirits, Gold Medal: Dallas Morning News
  Wine Competition
• 1999 DIONYSUS, Columbia Valley $48: "A masterful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with alluring maple sugar, cedar and black raspberry on the palate with plum, nutmeg and black cherry--only 460 cases."
   

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DUTTON GOLDFIELD 2001 Zinfandel, Morelli Lane Vineyard, Dutton Ranch, Russian River $35: "Morelli Lane Zinfandel tops the ridge on the far western edge of  Russian River Valley. This century-old, dry-farmed, head-trained 1.2-acre block is all that’s left of an original vineyard planted over 100 years ago. Left unfarmed for years, the Duttons revived the vineyard in 1995 and its fruit now  permits this special limited bottling of old vine Zinfandel.  "This cool, coastal site produces a Zin of exceptional fruit concentration, moderate alcohol, and bright acid backbone.   The winemaking concentrates on showcasing the special personality of this wonderful vineyard – ebullient fruit, silky tannins, density without heaviness. Destemmed fruit is cold soaked for 7 days, then fermented in a small open top fermenter, with gentle, hand punch downs, aged in French oak to display the sweet fruit,  spice and complexity.  We rack the wine once in early spring to marry the individual barrel contributions, and to help clarify it for unfiltered bottling.  It was bottled in the fall after spending approximately 10 months in wood.   It displays a level of silkiness and elegance rare to Zinfandel, while still bursting with the crystalline fruit so central to the varietal’s charm. Bright raspberry, blackberry and caramel on the nose give way to enticingly fine grain tannins and creamy bright raspberry on the palate. It finishes with the candied berry fruits and subtle spice so central to its venerable nature. This is a Zin that’s wonderfully easy to drink and, with it’s moderate alcohol, is a great paring with many foods.

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MERITUS by FALL CREEK VINEYARDS was first released in 1996,  Meritus is a Latin word meaning "great merit or excellence."  This  1999 vintage has  92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 1% Malbec.  Owner/Winemaker Ed Auler says, "The Cabernet adds structure, color and wonderful berry flavor to the Meritus, while the Merlot adds softness and fruit, and the Malbec contributing color, fruit and sometimes a bit of spiciness.  Our oak on the Meritus was 75-plus per cent American with the remainder French Never.  We only produce MERITUS when the grapes merit becoming a wine."  As I said above: MERITUS by Fall Creek Vineyards $30, this edition--the first since 1996--of Fall Creek's blended red wine is Texas' best yet!  I've been tasting Texas wines for 20 years, and Ed and Susan Auler and crew have put together a deliciously memorable and praiseworthy wine. It has layers of boysenberry, blackberry, coconut, cranberry, spicy oak, a hint of leather and nutmeg with a beautifully melded complexity. It is balanced by silky tannins and lusciousness.  Hope you can find a bottle of this limited production.  Well worth the search!  100 gold points!                     ___________________________________________________________________________ 

ROBERT CRAIG has released two 2000 Cabernet Sauvignons.  The 2000 Mt. Veeder Cab brings together the essential characteristics of the Mt. Veeder Appellation: dense, generous black fruit integrated with fine ripe tannins.   For the Howell Mountain Cab--great depth and clarity, warm spice nuances to pure dark fruit and broad ripe tannins.

• ROBERT CRAIG 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder, Napa $40 is keenly focused, age worthy, great structure and mouthfeel with elegance.  "Extra rich concentration of ripe black fruit, currant, cassis with a touch of mint, cream and spice, silky chocolate, a plush long-lived finish."
• ROBERT CRAIG 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa $40: ". . .black fruit, cracked white pepper, cassis and tabac in aromas with flavors of rich currant, blackberry, dusty earth with herb nuances, mocha and vanilla,  concentrated and graceful, silky and refined."

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• DRY CREEK VINEYARD 2002 Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg $9: "Bright aromas of honeydew melon and pineapple lead to ripe flavors of kiwi, gooseberries,, and tropical fruit,  crisp with hints of citrus, balanced, lingering, an excellent aperitif, with salads or shellfish."
• DRY CREEK VINEYARD 2002 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County $13: "Dry Creek's flagship wine has fresh aromas of hay and citrus and flavors of grapefruit and lemongrass, vibrant acidity balanced to a smooth finish, enjoy with goat cheese, seafood and fresh oysters."
• DRY CREEK VINEYARD 2001 Heritage Clone Zinfandel $15: "bright, spicy and fruity, luscious old-vine character, , rich berry fruit, allspice and chocolate with coffee hints, complex and pairs with many foods--pasta to filet mignon."
• DRY CREEK VINEYARD 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $21: "rich with fresh cherries, hint of blueberry, cigar notes, spice  and sweet oak, firm tannins, well-structured, focused and a long finish, pair with lamb, grilled steaks."

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DUTCH HENRY WINERY owner and winemaker Scott Chafen admits it.  He says he knows the meaning of sweat equity.  Since Dutch Henry
Winery's inception in 1992, Scott has worn many hats… Winemaker, Cellar Rat, Sales Guy, Office Manager, Delivery Boy, Forklift Driver, Customer Service Rep… you name it, he's done it. Not surprisingly, the role he relishes the most is that of Winemaker.  As winemaker, Scott is responsible for the timely execution of each step in the winemaking process, from researching grape varietals and blends, to overseeing the annual crush and performing ongoing cellar functions.
Before Dutch Henry Winery, Scott worked in the cellar and vineyards at Vincent Arroyo Winery, and assisted in farming his family's vineyard.
A native of San Francisco, Scott received a Bachelor of Arts degree in Philosophy from Occidental College in Los Angeles.  Scott is married to Sophia and they live in St. Helena with their airedale terrier, Buggsy. In his few and precious moments to spare, Scott enjoys gardening, cooking, backpacking and
listening to music.

•  DUTCH HENRY WINERY 2001 ARGOS, Meritage, Napa Valley (53% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 37% cabernet franc) $38: "This wine has all the richness and layers of flavors I had anticipated.  2001 had the consistent heat that is ideal for ripening Bordeaux varietals.  It is a classic blend of the traditional varietals.  Complex blackberry, chocolate, dried herb and earth flavors, punctuated by a brawny depth and solid tanninc structure that carries through in a tart, firm finish.  I love it that this wine is a bit chewy and textural, yet the fruit is right there to enrich the experience."
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CLICQUOT : The history of this wine is the story of a capable and determined woman.  The remarkable Madame Clicquot (1777-1866)
is often considered the first businesswoman of the modern era. Née Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin, she was widowed in 1805 at the age of 27.
Veuve Clicquot ( Veuve means widow in French) defied every convention of the day to take the helm of her late husband's small Champagne house. She enlisted help wisely, took astute risks and made important technological innovations (including the invention of remuage or riddling), leading the House to world renown. One of her most significant triumphs was sending a secret shipment of her Champagne to Russia in 1814 in defiance of Napoleon's blockade--a great success.
Today the House of Veuve Clicquot is among the most prestigious Champagne firms. Its extensive vineyard holdings, many originally purchased by Madame Clicquot, stretch throughout the top-rated areas of the Champagne region and are unparalleled in size and quality. As in Mme Clicquot's day, bottles age in the House's vast, vaulted cellars in Reims, portions of which were constructed some 2,000 years ago by the Romans.  The House of Clicquot is best known for its Yellow Label Brut non-vintage Champagne, which was a best seller in America prior to Prohibition. Veuve Clicquot also produces a
Vintage Rosé, and a Demi-Sec. The firm's most prestigious Champagne, La Grande Dame, named for the Widow Clicquot herself, is made exclusively from the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes picked from vineyards she purchased in the early 1800s.   The Champagnes of Veuve Clicquot are full-flavored, with elegance, crispness and a lingering aftertaste.

• CLICQUOT Demi-Sec $50: Creamy, with a touch of sweetness. Veuve Clicquot's Demi-Sec (the classic accompaniment to dessert) is equally pleasing as an apéritif. This stylish blend is evocative of the wine Madame Clicquot herself produced in the early 19th century. Wonderful with fruit and cream-based desserts such as tarts, mousses and especially crème brûlée.

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VALLEY OF THE MOON 2002 Pinot Blanc, Sonoma County $15: " . . .  fresh, crisp aromas suggest a mélange of tropical fruits like lemon and lime, guava and pineapple,  Light on the palate, it displays generous white peach and pear fruit, delicate toasty oak notes with a perfect acid balance to enhance the palate and long crisp finish.  It is precisely suited to the current preferences in white wines and the popularity keeps growing."                   

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IRON HORSE VINEYARDS has six current releases and two of them are new Chardonnays.  Forrest says "This vintage has produced our finest Chardonnay yet." 

• IRON HORSE 2001 T-bar-T Viognier, Alexander Valley $24:  Iron Horse produces a very small amount of Viognier. The grapes are grown on Forrest Tancer's T-bar-T Vineyard in the Northeast foothills of the Alexander Valley.  Exceptional lots in special vintages get special bottling. " The 2001 is especially bright, fresh, floral and exquisitely aromatic, goes beautifully with fish, spicy Thai noodles, chicken curry, Thanksgiving turkey, vegetables, fruit sorbets,  peaches and Viognier sabayon.  For an exotic pairing, try  with foie gras and a peach or apricot chutney.  This wine is like perfume.  Aromas of island blossoms and white peaches lead to full ripe flavors that linger on and on."
• IRON HORSE 2001 Cuvée R (Fume Blanc)  This unique blend of Sauvignon Blanc with 20% Viognier is dedication to Forret's mother (Renee Tancer)  who loved Alexander Valley T-Bar-T Vineyards.   The proprietary blend combines the intense hillside fruit flavors resulting in a clean, crisp finish.  Excellent sipping or with hors d' oeuvres, pair with vegetables--especially tomatoes and basil, Florida stone crab, grilled lobster, broiled white fish with a tangy sauce.  The wine smells like spring in the vineyard  when Buckeye and Manzanita trees bloom.  Viognier gives a honey-perfume, added weight and balance to the clean, citrusy Sauvignon Blanc.
• IRON HORSE 2000 Thomas Road Pinot Noir, Sonoma County-Green Valley $60: "This high vineyard gets early morning sun and afternoon ocean breezes--producing concentrated black cherry fruit, underlying earthy, mushroom quality, combining power and refinement.  Bright, dry flavors have lots of ripe fruit with oak, toast and spice flavors.  Pair with grilled quail, duck with fruit sauce, veal, steak,  venison,  and camembert cheese.   The wine's magic comes from four acres that yield very special flavors, distinct from other vineyard  sections only feet away--same clone, same root stock, same soil.  The most masculine of our Pinots, it has amazing depth of character, yet is silky. 
• IRON HORSE 1999 T-bar-T Sangiovese, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $24: "It reminds of dark Bing cherries backed by deeper, darker flavors that give it strength and complexity and smoothness from Alexander Valley--famous for producing soft, melting tannins."  Pair with pastas, lamb and white beans, a juicy steak with braised fennel, spinach and cannellini beans, a natural with Pecorino and caciotta cheese.  This wine is 90% Sangiovese blended with 10% Merlot, aged 11 months in French oak."  
• IRON HORSE 2001 Corral Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma County-Green Valley $37: "This vintage has produced our finest Chardonnay yet.  We made three distinct bottlings of Chardonnay from 2002--the Estate, which represents a blend from 10 different blocks, and for the first time ever, a limited amount of Corral Vineyard, which grows alongside an old 1920s redwood corral and a separate bottling of Chardonnay from Thomas Road (the highest most westerly edge of the property).  The Estate has 50% malolactic (ML), Thomas Road has 10% ML and Corral has 100% ML--there are no recipes for our wines.  Corral tastes like crème brulee, rich and mouth filling, integrated oak with slight burnt touch."
• IRON HORSE 2001 Thomas Road Chardonnay, Sonoma County-Green Valley $37: "This vintage has produced our finest Chardonnay yet." (Please see above.)  "Thomas Road is zesty and spicy, restrained and  crisp, and the 100% oak fermentation is perfectly integrated and balanced to give a smoky, toasty background flavor. "

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KENWOOD  2002 Chardonnay, Sonoma $15:  "Fresh character and smooth, green apple and kiwi, the cool growing regions permit grapes to remain on vine to ripen thoroughly with forward fruit, lightness on the palate and crisp acidity."

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KENDALL-JACKSON Director of Communications George Rose tells me that "Our Flavor Domaines® philosophy matches the climate, soil, and grape varietals grown in California's True Coast® vineyards and provides wine of intense and distinct varietal flavors.  The traditional winemaking approach  keeps  each lot separate until the final blend."

• KENDALL-JACKSON 2001 Grand Reserve Chardonnay  (43%Santa Barbara, 40% Monterey, 17% Sonoma Counties) $20: Winemaker Randy Ullom says, "Barrel fermentation and nine months sur lie aging in mostly small French oak barrels contribute vanilla, spice and toasty aromas that complement layers of citrus, apple, and ripe tropical fruit.  Balanced acidity and a polished supple texture create uncommon finesse to the palate and finish."
• KENDALL-JACKSON 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley $40: "With grapes from Alexander Valley and Dry Creek, the wine is characterized by dense boysenberry and blackberry fruit, and subtle chocolate accents.  In addition , the grapes show supple texture and soft tannins, adding to the wine's appeal."
• KENDALL-JACKSON 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $40: "laden with juicy blackberry  and cassis for a rich mid-palate that is complemented by 23 months in small oak barrels.  The finish is enduring and reveals the signature Rutherford dust and mint."

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PENFOLDS Koonunga Hill wines have several new releases.   Named for a PENFOLDS vineyard in the Barossa Valley, South Australia, the wines are made from this vineyard's fruit as well as other premium viticultural areas in order to be able to consistently produce a specific style of wine year after year.  All four wines--Shiraz-Cabernet, Cabernet-Merlot,  and Chardonnay--represent affordable quality.

• PENFOLDS Koonunga Hill 2002 Chardonnay $10: "Fresh, fruit driven nose of melon, white stone fruit aromas with subtle spicy oak and a soft round palate of medium weight with an initial burst of vibrant fruit flavors, clean, and crisp acidity.   Creamy malolactic characters and well-integrated oak provide structure and depth, offering subtle caramel on a sustained finish."
• PENFOLDS Koonunga Hill Shiraz-Cabernet $11: "Cinnamon, clove, and berry notes mesh with dark cherry and summer pudding fruits with an element of appealing savoury oak--providing structure and complexity."
• PENFOLDS Koonunga Hill Cabernet-Merlot $11: "Nose is dominated by Cab varietal character with notes of blackcurrant, capsicum and mint.  Merlot adds a plummy richness at the back and the oak conveys a spicy warmth.  Flavors of dark cherry and blackcurrant dominate the palate with beetroot and leafy notes.  The wine has a tight structure, excellent grip, definition and length, ripe tannins and abundant varietal flavor."

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WILLIAM HILL WINERY has released two new red wines, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and recommends a variety of foods to serve with them.

• WILLIAM HILL WINERY 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa $38: "Twenty percent was whole-berry fermented.  Aging took place in a combination of new and one-year-old 100% French oak for 24 months.  It is complex, rich and lush, rounded, full-bodied, fruit driven with generous oak spice notes and rich, intense flavors and plush tannins with notes of cedar, vanilla and cassis--smooth and silky.  Serve with roasted meats, rich stews or tomato based sauces, grilled lamb chops served over creamy polenta and sautéed greens, bacon wrapped filet mignon or a three-cheese lasagna."  
• WILLIAM HILL WINERY 2000 Merlot, Napa $21: "Fermented 80% in stainless steel with partial whole berry.  Softened tannins, fruit flavors with succulent texture shine on palate, forward boysenberry and blueberry complemented by spice, toasty oak and vanilla, a full-bodied Merlot with silky mouthfeel.  Serve with roasted beef lamb or wild game, tomato and herb pasta, hearty soups and fresh mozzarella pizza."

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   VALLEY OF THE MOON 2002 Chardonnay, Sonoma $15: "Lithe and vibrant, yet impressively full-flavored and complex, this new release makes a convincing case for growing this popular grape in the coldest possible vineyards.   In Sonoma, those vineyards are located in Russian River Valley and the Carneros--the places these grapes were grown.  The grapes were whole-cluster pressed to preserve fruit flavors the barrel fermented in small FRench oak.  It is light and bring with generous flavors of apple, orange, rich cream, vanilla, toasty oak with a long crisp finish."   

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  MARQUES de ARIENZO offers some reds with a little time.  While many Riojas are blends of wines from all over the region, MARQUES de ARIENZO narrows the focus to bottle estate wines.  They show the terroir of the Rioja Alavesa appellation and are softer, more aromatic and faster to mature.  Modern vineyard and winery practices give fresh, clean wines, stylistically correct and that reflect their point of origin. 

• MARQUES de ARIENZO 1999 Crianza Estate Bottled Rioja (95% Tempranillo 5% Graciano and Mazuelo) $10: "Fresh and lively fruit-forward style showcasing cherry, currant and vanilla spice flavors.  An elegant layering of fruit, leather and oak keeps the acidity in balance."
• MARQUES de ARIENZO 1998 Reserva Estate Bottled Rioja (95% Tempranillo 5% Graciano and Mazuelo) $15: "Complex and elegant bouquet of spiciness and vanilla, a good balance between aging in oak and bottle, rounded palate with excellent backbone and lingering finish.  Serve with red meats, roast lamb and game dishes."

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COURT DECISION FAVORS SHIPMENTS; however, there is more to come:  The 5th Circuit Court of Appeals has overturned Texas laws that ban out-of-state wineries from shipping their products directly to residents, but allow in-state wineries to do so. Those regulations are discriminatory and amount to economic protectionism for in-state businesses, according to the court.    "Absent an identical restriction on Texas wineries, Texas's prohibition against out-of-state wineries directly selling and shipping wine to Texas consumers is constitutionally defective under the Commerce Clause. This is not even a close call," the three-judge panel wrote in a strongly worded 55-page decision. Texas officials could now choose to petition the appeals court for a rehearing, and if that is not successful, then ask the U.S. Supreme Court to review it.  Out-of-state wineries are not yet able to ship legally to Texas. Despite the court's wording, the state legislature could still choose to pass new rules prohibiting Texas wineries from shipping anymore. If the state does accept the court's decision rather than appeal, the Texas Alcohol Beverage Commission must issue new regulations on how it will control direct shipments and collect taxes.         Excerpt from the 5th Circuit's conclusion:  "Plaintiffs demonstrated before the district court that Texas's restrictions against direct sales and shipments by out-of-state wineries to Texas residents are intended to -- and in fact do -- discriminate to the benefit of in-state wineries, which are not hamstrung by the economic constraints of having to sell their products through Texas's otherwise legitimate three-tier system.       "As the record makes clear, small out-of-state wineries, which constitute a substantial majority of the total number of wineries throughout the country, are hurt by these discriminatory restrictions, as Texas wholesalers (despite having permits to import their wine) do not import their products because the quantity of product and the consumer demand in each wholesaler's local market are too small to justify the wholesaler's marginal cost in importing and selling the product.        "The Texas legislature thus achieves exactly what it sought: Texas wines are more available for purchase by Texas consumers because these consumers are essentially denied access to the products of out-of-state wineries, and vice-versa. This is exactly the type of geographic discrimination that is prohibited by the Commerce Clause and, as applied, is a patent violation of Plaintiffs' constitutional rights."