The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  55th Edition
February 1st, 2003

 

SOMETHING SPECIAL FOR VALENTINES ♥♥  A new-to-me  wine producer may be just what cupid orders for this February 14th.  Valentine Vineyards is a small family-run winery in Southern Mendocino County, just a quarter of a mile from Alexander Valley.  Rodney Strong planted the vineyard in 1976 with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Between 1975 and 1985, the vineyard was operated by Sonoma Vineyards, and Windsor Winery produced wine under the designation “Haehl Ranch.”  In 1987, Bob Valentine purchased the vineyard, beginning the evolution of Valentine Vineyards!  "We're releasing our first Valentine Vineyards 1999 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, $27.   It follows a long line of award winning private bottlings that Bob created only for family and friends--a bold and unique wine of superior ripeness, balance and richness.   Densely hued, thoroughly drinkable upon release, and destined to improve with time in the bottle, we feel our debut release is a excellent introduction to the distinctive wines produced from our grapes.  We selected the best quality Cabernet fruit from various blocks throughout the vineyard for this exclusive 600-case offering. Layered aromas of berry fruit, licorice, and vanilla create a tantalizing bouquet while flavors in the mouth are balanced, concentrated and rich with the flavors of cherries, blackberries, cassis and a hint of black pepper.  Two years in a combination of French and American oak barrels have contributed to the smooth viscous texture and complexity of this Cabernet. It finishes long on the palate, with the necessary structure to improve and maintain its character for many years to come.
 

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)

PORT, various styles (please see WINE OF THE MONTH)

Varietal: SYRAH and Viognier

Wine of the Month: PORT

Port and Chocolate make the perfect Valentines pair —after you and your Sweetie, of course. The tradition of giving chocolates to a loved one is well established, but for something more special, add Port--delightful to share on Texas’ winter evenings.      Port is a uniquely distinctive beverage. It has been produced in Portugal since the 17th century in one of the most difficult wine growing regions in the world--along the valley of the Douro River. It’s a small miracle that the vineyards even exist. For starters, there was no soil. At the time, the 60 to 70%-grade mountain slopes were made predominantly of schist, an unstable, flaking material. Men made the soil by cracking off pieces of schist and crushing it.   Portuguese law records that Port can be produced only in the Douro. It’s shipped from Oporto, the city that named the wine.     The United States’ share of the Port market represents 3.5% and in 1998 received 4.3 million bottles. Approximately 45 brands are available in the U.S. and each offers several styles; however, in a typical year, 60% of the port is Tawny and 30% is Ruby.     There are two main types of Port, bottle aged and wood aged. Certain styles age remarkably, often 100 or more years. These older bottles are dear; fortunately, there are styles and prices to suit any number of tastes.

Vintage Port is the king of ports, declared only in years of outstanding quality, perhaps three times a decade. Eighteen months after the harvest, the best casks of wine from the best quintas (estates) are harmoniously blended, bottled and left to mature--changing over the years. Vintage Port throws substantial sediment in bottle and needs decanting. Recent declared vintages: 1977, 1980, 1983, 1985, 1991, 1994 and 1997.

Vintage Character Port, like tawny, is blended, but the emphasis is on fruity richness, not delicacy. The expressions vary considerably and some Houses name them differently (Noval LB, Cockburn’s Special Reserve, Ramos-Pinto’s Quinta da Zurtiga, Graham Six Grapes, Dow’s A.J.S., etc.).

Ruby Port, representative of the original wine, is the mainstay of the Port trade. Young and fruity, it is usually aged no more than three years and consumed when young, for the essence of its charm.

Tawny Port gets pale, amber color by early separation from the grape skins. Blends accentuate the mellow berry and nut flavors--usually three years old. Many blends are from several years so are undated. A special tawny category, however, indicates an average age. These prestigious tawnies have average ages of 10, 20, 30 and 40 years.

Late Bottled Vintage (LBV): Like Vintage Port, LBV is wine of a single year but it is not a declared year. Whereas Vintage spends only two years in cask and then matures in the bottle, LBV is aged solely in cask and then bottled after four to six years. At the time of bottling, it has completed its maturation and is ready for drinking without need for decanting.

Single Quinta Port is the product of a single estate or vineyard, declared only in the best years. Although generally harmful or undesirable, weeds can also provide benefits for agriculture. Incidentally, firms producing Port are called Houses (same in Champagne), apparently because of initial family ownership. There are several well-respected Houses that make various styles.

Ramos-Pinto Port: Brothers Adriano and Antonio Ramos founded this Port House in 1880. Today their descendants direct the firm, which was acquired by the Champagne House of Louis Roederer in 1990. Ramos-Pinto cultivates 460 acres of prime vineyards in the Douro, where growing conditions on the steep, rocky slopes bring the grapes to perfect maturation. Owning most of its vineyards gives Ramos-Pinto a high degree of control over viticultural methods and harvest time. It is famous for its vintage ports and single-quinta tawnies and complex fruitiness.

RAMOS-PINTO FINE TAWNY: well-matured, fruity port with a favorable dry finish. $14

RAMOS-PINTO FINE WHITE: great appetizer wine, very fruity forward and light. $14

RAMOS-PINTO QUINTA DA URTIGA, vintage of character port: charming wine combining freshness and maturity. $18

RAMOS-PINTO LBV 1996: from special-quality vintages, matured in wood for four years. $21

RAMOS-PINTO VINTAGE 2000 PORT: full, delicate tannins, complex and concentrated, long bottle aging retains vibrant fruit. $59

Taylor Fladgate 20 year Tawny Port
If vintage port is a gift of nature guided by the least possible intervention of man, tawny ports of age represent one of the highest expressions of the blender's art. Though they begin life much alike, their evolution could not be more different. Vintage port matures entirely in bottle protected from the air: an aged tawny evolves entirely in cask with some degree of oxygen, a  far more difficult process to guide.   Selections for tawny are made from among very concentrated, full-bodied, vintage-quality red Ports judged according to their aging potential.  They originate from the same "Vintage" quintas to maintain consistency, are placed in cask and set aside to be cellared for the long term. Since wines from different vintages show variation in character, concentration and rate of maturation, tawny Ports of age are blended across several vintages for freshness, balance and continuity of style to show an average age on the label rather than a vintage date.  In older tawny Ports, the actual ages of the Ports in the blend may be ten years or so, but in the younger tawnies the spread is usually four years or less.    During aging, they throw their deposit in the cask rather than in the bottle and lose their dark purple hue to grow lighter--hence the name "tawny."  Racking contributes to the oxidation process so that fruit qualities gradually diminish and nutty characteristics are acquired.  The heat and humidity of storage also influence aging.   Taylor, Fladgate cellars its aged tawnies in Vila Nova de Gaia rather than in the Douro; the considerable difference in heat and humidity between these two areas produces a lush, silky richness reminiscent of caramel with an elegant, slightly austere quality which is quite distinctive. Amber in color with subtle fruit nuances underlying nutty, caramel flavors and a long, balanced finish, Taylor, Fladgate Twenty Year Old Tawny is superb with foie gras, cheeses, nuts and desserts based on nuts, caramel, coffee and chocolate.
Taylor Late Bottle Vintage Port (LBV)
Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman created the late-bottled vintage style of wine, initially called "Vintage Reserve" when first released in 1955. Their first Late-Bottled Vintage label was released in 1969. Other port houses followed in this category; however, Taylor, Fladgate remains the benchmark of late-bottled vintage ports.  LBV offers a lighter, less complex and less concentrated style wine with qualities of a vintage port but ready to drink on release. It requires no decanting and enjoys a considerably longer shelf life than a mature vintage port once uncorked.  The LBV is blended from high-quality reserves--full-bodied, single-vintage wines produced from its own quintas and other top properties.  Like all ports, the wine ferments until approximately half the sugar converts to alcohol, when the process stops by the addition of clear grape brandy (77 percent alcohol) in the proportion of four parts must to one part spirit--bringing the alcohol content to between 17 and 19%, a proportion later corrected to 20%.  While vintage port spends two years in cask, LBV is aged from four to six years in wood. The wines are then blended, followed by a light fining and cold filtering, to show fine balance, backbone and consistency of the vintage year.  Taylor, Fladgate LBV does not improve with bottle age, and unless it has been stored for some time needs no decanting. Deep purple in color, with intense, jammy fruit flavors and an aromatic nose of berries, vanilla and a touch of walnut, it is best enjoyed with the traditional full-flavored cheeses and nuts, intense desserts or on its own at the end of a meal.
Fonseca Bin 27 Port
"Vintage character" describes a blended port from quality reserve wines from a range of vintages, which shows some of the characteristics of true vintage port. Most vintage character ports carry a brand name and vary widely in style from house to house. Fonseca Bin No. 27, created over a century ago the family and only released commercially in 1972, is produced primarily from Fonseca's own quintas in the Cima Corgo--giving it exceptional quality and consistency from year to year.  Blended from reserve wines with intense fruit character and depth of color, Fonseca Bin No. 27 spends four years in large wood vats prior to bottling and is ready to consume when bottled.  Decanting is unnecessary as a cold precipitation prior to bottling prevents any "crust" from forming.  Its well-knit structure, rich, velvety full body and luscious blackcurrant and cherry flavors, carry into an intense, lingering finish. Serve at room temperature either alone or with simple, classic last courses and desserts. It is best consumed within two weeks after uncorking.

Cockburn’s Port: Cockburn’s has had three families play key roles throughout its history—Cockburn, Smithe and Cobb. Robert Cockburn founded the House in 1815 in Oporto. His two sons opened a London office in 1830 because Britons consumed almost the entire exports. The family crest (cockerel on a coronet) became the company symbol.   Henry Smithes became a partner in 1845 and the Smithes managed the Portuguese company until 1970. The Cobb family joined the Portuguese firm in 1863 and remain closely involved in the London and Oporto operations. In 1961, Harveys of Bristol acquired Cockburn’s and both are part of Allied Domecq Spirits and Wine Ltd.

COCKBURN’S SPECIAL RESERVE: a quality Ruby Port, four to five years old, medium sweet, good acidity balanced by velvety tannins, mature finish.

COCKBURN’S 20-YEAR-OLD TAWNY: nutty and aromatic, smooth, mellow and concentrated, plenty of fruit with a rich, long finish.

Noval Port: Quinta do Noval first appeared in the land registries in 1715. Over the decades, the property passed by marriage to other families. Noval, like many estates, was ravaged by phyloxera in the 1880s and put on the market. Port shipper António José da Silva bought and restored it in 1894. A catastrophic fire in 1981destroyed 350,000 liters of stock and more than two centuries of records. The following year a new generation of the family entered the company and began building a lodge at Quinta do Noval, the first major House to take advantage of legislation that permitted shipment from the Douro.

 NOVAL LB: barrel age five years, rich, concentrated and complex, ready to drink.

Beringer Cabernet Port: Napa Valley 1998 PORT of Cabernet Sauvignon $20:  Winemaster Ed Sbragia says three Napa vineyards between Rutherford and Yountville tend to display more fruit than tannin, with a ripe, fleshy character and flavors of plum, cassis and spice. These grapes, which produce Cabernet Sauvignon, were used to make a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Port. Winemaking: The flavor and character of Port profits from very mature grapes, so the grapes were not picked until October 28 to allow for full maturity. Fermentation was monitored for the desired mellow flavor profile, and then fortified to arrest the fermentation. The wine was macerated on its skins for additional flavor and texture, then aged for more than 20 months in a combination of small American and French (Nevers) oak barrels.  The resulting wine, which displays bold blackberry fruit aromas and flavors backed by notes of toasty oak, vanilla and brown spices, has a residual sugar level of 10 and an alcohol level of 19.5, promising long aging potential. Winemaker's Comments: "The aromas and flavors show why Cabernet Sauvignon is such a star in Napa Valley's climate and soils: the wine is richly fruited but complex; mouth filling yet not in the least cloying. The wine's aromas and flavors of blackberries at the peak of ripeness are in the forefront, but I also find suggestions of light herbs, peppery spice and a toasty caramel note from the oak barrels that makes me yearn for a roaring fire, a bowl of toasted walnuts and a circle of friends to share a toast to the great tradition of Port. " -Edward Sbragia,

Penfolds Club Port: In 1844 Dr. Christopher Rawlon Penfold and his wife Mary planted vines on the slopes of McGill, just outside the enfant settlement of Adelaide, South Australia, to produce port.  The excellence of this wine was so great that producing wines replaced medicine as the family means of income and a wine dynasty was born.  The Club Port is a rich and luscious premium tawny from the Penfolds'Kalimna Cellars in the Barossa Valley.  Penfolds Club Port is the largest selling Australian fortified wines.  Made from a blend of tawny port vintages, the wine was matured in oak hogheads in Kalimna Vineyard port store in the Barossa Valley  Club Port's consistent quality and easy-drinking style has secured its place among wine lovers.  Mahogany in color, the bouquet displays an integration of old oak, rich developed fruit and a hint of barndy.  The palate is rich and well-developed, full bodied lingering flavors with the result of balanced mature, spicy fruit, oak and brandy spirit.

DOW's: The grapes for Dow's Late Bottle Vintage Ports (LBV) come from some of the same vineyards used to produce Dow's famous Vintage Ports. It is aged in oak casks for 4-6 years before bottling.  This additional wood aging allows the wine to mature more quickly so that it may be enjoyed as soon as it is released.  Dark ruby color, on the nose intense and concentrated aromas of ripe fruits, particularly plums and berries. On the palate, peppery and spice flavors, excellent grip and a long finish, according to Charles Symington, Winemaker
Dow's Tawny:  These great wines are made from the same grape varietals used to make Vintage Ports. The difference between the wines is how they are aged. The grapes still come from the Douro Valley of Northern Portugal. As with all other Port wines, grape spirit brandy is added to stop fermentation early thus leaving the natural grape sugars that give Port its characteristic richness. The winemaker selects wines based on specific characteristics (color, acidity.), and allows them to mature in oak casks for many years. Over time, the Port oxidizes and loses the deep red color of its youth and takes on the classic amber hues that give Tawnies their name. Years of Age refers to the average age of the wine (this is a minimum assured average, the average can be older). Younger lots of wine are used to bring a fruity balance to the complexity of older wines selected for the blend. The winemaker assures a consistent "house style"  through this blending process. Dow's Tawnies have a typically drier style.
GRAHAM's
Graham's Tawny: W. & J. Graham's Aged Tawny Ports are fortified wines made from grapes grown at the Quinta dos Malvedos and other Grade A vineyards in the Douro Valley of Northern Portugal. The young wines are placed in oak casks and stored at the Graham's lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia, near Oporto, where they are allowed to mature over long periods of time. During maturation, the Port gradually oxidizes and loses its rich purple color and assumes a deep golden amber hue. The year indicated on the bottle (10 Year Old etc.)  indicates an average age: Older lots are added for their complexity; whereas younger lots of wine are added for their youthful, fruity structure. During this blending process, the winemaker will select wines based on specific characteristics in order to asure a consistent "house style" for the wine.
Graham's LBV Port: Graham's Late Bottled Vintage Port (LBV) is created from the wines of a single vintage and although the grapes come from some of the same vineyards used for "Graham's Vintage Port," (i.e. Quinta dos Malvedos), the wine is aged quite differently. Graham's LBV ages in large oak casks for four to six years; whereas, Classic Vintage Port only spends 18 months to 2 years in cask before being bottled.  The wine has been lightly fined and will not continue to develop in the bottle. Modern LBV's do not require decanting and are bottled ready to drink.  Graham's LBV has much of the rich full fruity flavor of Vintage Port but it also has a softness brought about by the extended cask aging.
SMITH WOODHOUSE Madalena Single Quinta
The Madalena "Quinta" (Portuguese for estate vineyard) forms the backbone of Smith Woodhouse's great Vintage Ports in classic, or declared years. In non-classic, or undeclared years the finest of these top quality  grapes are used to produce the Single Quinta Madalena Vintage Port. These grapes are also used to produce Smith Woodhouse's Traditional Late Bottle Vintage, and Aged Tawny ports.  The small vineyard lies alongside the riverbed of the Rio Torto, a tributary of the Douro River. This area is acknowledged as having the highest concentration of top quality vineyards in the entire region. Maturation in the Torto valley is typically later than in the hotter eastern Douro. The result. . . well balanced fruit which gives
the wines their finesse and structure.   Planted with the following grape varieties: Touriga Nacional (10%), Tinta Barroca (45%), Touriga Francesa  (35%) and mixed planting (10%), the vines have an average age of 15 years and the maximum "A" grade  rating. The 10 hectares of vineyard are planted with 14,500 vines which produce an average of 2000 cases of wine. The company also purchases grapes from other Rio Torto vineyards in order to ensure continuity of the house style.

SEBASTOPOL VINEYARDS CELEBRATES TEN GENERATIONS IN SONOMA AGRICULTURE

SEBASTOPOL VINEYARDS & WINERY culminates ten generations in Sonoma County agriculture, achieving "quality and self-sufficiency in handcrafting ultra-premium wines from our family's finest vineyards at Dutton Ranch, " owners Tracy and Joe Dutton say.  We make wines from our fruit exclusively,  focusing on luxury Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.  Established in 1963, Dutton Ranch has  900 acres of vineyards and 150 acres of apples throughout the Russian River Valley and is recognized as the premier grower in this region for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Grapes sold to select wineries  proudly identify Dutton Ranch as a source of fruit on their label.  The Dutton's inaugural release was from the 1995 vintage--only chardonnay and pinot noir,  sold at the winery.   Good words followed, capitalizing on the excellent grape source and controlling the wine from grape to glass. With consulting winemaker Merry Edwards, SEBASTOPOL VINEYARDS & WINERY continues to pursue its place among the world's finest wineries.


 


 

NEWS

GALLO OF SONOMA Gallo of Sonoma has been named American Winery of the Year in the Wine Enthusiast's third annual awards issue. The Fladgate Partnership was named European Winery of the Year, and Montes of Chile was also honored by the editors of the magazine.  The American Winery of the Year award is the most recent accolade in a string of international awards that have been presented to Gallo of Sonoma by wine organizations around the world.   Adam Strum, publisher of the authoritative magazine for wine lovers, says of Gallo of Sonoma that "their commitment to quality goes beyond slogans and into the bottle."    The announcement of the award says, in part, "What makes Gallo of Sonoma so worthy of this honor is how quickly the brand leapfrogged over the competition to land on so many 'best of' lists - from Tokyo to London, and from New York to Italy...In the past few years, Gallo of Sonoma wines have become must-tastes for anyone serious about keeping up with varietal developments in California. There's now serious buzz circulating around its single-vineyard bottlings."    Several of Gallo of Sonoma's ultra-premium wines have recently garnered high scores from Wine Enthusiast. Gallo of Sonoma's 2000 Laguna Vineyard Chardonnay, one of the most popular wines in the single-vineyard series, was awarded 90 points. The 1998 Gallo of Sonoma Estate Chardonnay earned 92 points, and the 1996 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon won honors with 94 points.   Gallo of Sonoma is based in Healdsburg near the center of Sonoma County.   Third generation winemaker Gina Gallo and her brother Matt Gallo lead the winemaking and vineyard teams producing Estate, Single Vineyard, and Sonoma County varietal wines.

MOZZARELLA COMPANY celebrated 20 years in business on September 23, 2002.  Congratulations!  Owner Paula Lambert says, "Legend has it that mozzarella was first made when cheese curds accidentally fell into a pail of hot water in a cheese factory near Naples...and soon thereafter the first pizza was made!  Actually, new cheeses often occur  when mistakes happen.  Mozzarella was first made near Naples, Italy from the rich water- buffalo milk.  Unpasteurized milk and little or no refrigeration, however, gave the cheese a very short shelf-life.  As cheese technology, refrigeration and transportation systems developed, the cheese traveled throughout Italy.  However, even today, the best, most highly prized buffalo mozzarella is found south of Naples where small factories continue centuries-old production traditions.  When I first traveled to Italy in the early 1960's and tasted fresh mozzarella I couldn't decide what I was eating.  It was soft, moist, bland, almost spongy and ooozing with milk.  When I was told it was made from "buffalo milk,"  I couldn't imagine what Wild Bill Cody and his buffalos could possibly have to do with this delicious dish!  Later I learned the milk was from water buffalos and called 'Buffalo Mozzarella.'  That made from cow's milk  was called 'Fior di Latte'!  Whenever I travel to Italy I would enjoy fresh mozzarella and tomato salads.  I loved the fresh mozzarella and because it wasn't available at home I founded the Mozzarella Company in Dallas in 1982. My goal was to produce freshly made mozzarella daily, just like they did in Italy, so all Dallasites could enjoy mozzarella and tomato salads!   Today two types of mozzarella are produced in the USA.  Low moisture mozzarella (less than 50%) and high moisture mozzarella (more than 52% moisture).  The former was developed in the USA to fit our transportation and distribution systems, and it has been available in grocery stores for years. This is the cheese that the huge factories produce for the pizza industry.  Fresh mozzarella is different.  It is hand-made, soft and moist and more perishable--like mine.   It is most often made from cow's milk; however it can be made from a combination of other milks such as cow's milk and goat's milk mixed. No buffalo-milk mozzarella is produced in the USA because water buffalo milk is not commercially available here. All the buffalo milk mozzarella sold here is imported from Italy and South America.   What distinguishes a superior fresh mozzarella from the rest of the pack? Taste above all. The cheese should taste fresh and reminiscent of milk. It should be mild and delicate.  Some say it is bland, yet there is flavor. There should be a hint of sourness. If it tastes too tart or sour the cheese is past its prime. The color should be white; however, seasonally the cheese can be more yellow due to the cows' diet of grasses. The fresher the cheese, the more elastic and springy the curd. As the cheese ages it becomes more and more soft. The perishability of fresh mozzarella varies
according to packaging. Vacuum sealing extends the shelf life dramatically."

WINE INSTITUTE has reported that "The Homeland Security Act of 2002 leaves wine, beer and distilled spirits revenue and regulatory functions of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (ATF) in a newly named 'Tax and Trade Bureau' in the Treasury Department.  This framework is precisely what the Wine Institute advocated to the Administration and the House and the Senate.  ATF as an entity and its responsibilities with firearms, explosives, arson and criminal enforcement areas will be transferred to the Justice Department."

SHAFER Line on Wine reported that in 2001 there were 4.7 million tourists who visited Napa Valley.

LANCASTER Estate, a new-to-me wine, produces only one, blended red, Bordeaux-style wine a year.  The 1999 won a gold medal.  Please see article below.

CHATEAU POTELLE was awarded Wine & Spirits magazine's "Winery of the Year" for the second year in a row.  (please see article below)

SHAFER reported its newest release--their website, www.shafervineyards.com

BOONY DOON reported that it is "going against the wine industry's 2002 results with growing volume sales for the year-- 30% over 2001," announced David Amadia, Vice President for Sales & Marketing. Though final figures are not yet available, California wineries are generally expected to record aggregate 2002 sales figures less than 5% above 2001. "One element of Bonny Doon's phenomenal 2002 performance was the successful introduction of the winery's 2001 Big House Red and 2001 Big House White, released in the spring, with the Stelvin screwcap closure," Amadia adds. "This represents the largest U.S. bottling to date of fine wine sealed with a screwcap -- 70,000 cases of Big House Red and 10,000 cases of Big House White." Each wine retails nationally for approximately $10.00. All of Bonny Doon's wines, including its flagship bottling, Le Cigare Volant (a blend of grenache, mourvèdre and syrah) will transition to screwcaps over the next two years. Bonny Doon is adopting the Stelvin closure to avoid a long list of problems associated with conventional bark closures, viz. cork taint and the requirement for hardware.
 

 

***


top

NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS-- Some 30 years ago, Warren Winiarski says he embraced a beguiling muse: "Winemaking."  Dedicated to quality and never content to rest on his laurels, he is devoted to the idea that each new vintage holds the promise of better wines yet to be made.  HAWK CREST was founded in 1974 by Winiarski to make wines of quality and exceptional value.

                    __________________________________________________________________________________

SIGNORELLO Vineyards makes limited quantities of premium varietals that blend classic French winemaking characteristics with California fruit.  "Our style of winemaking is directly tied to our vineyards.  We strive for lush, concentrated fruit flavors, and good acid balance in all our wines. The goal is to have wines with early accessibility, as well as potential to develop additional complexity as they mature,"  says Ray Signorello, Jr.   SIGNORELLO  has released three  wines on the market for your delicious  pleasure: 2001 SETA,  2001 Chardonnay Estate Vieilles Vignes, and 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate.

BELLA SERA 2001 Chardonnay delle Venezie $7: "Rich, smooth and refreshing example of deliciousness from the Tre Venezie region of Northeastern Italy.  Medium body with aromas of golden apples and tropical fruit, it's lightly oaked flavors of ripe apple, tropical fruit and vanilla culminate in a crisp, pleasant finish. Pair with poultry, fish and pork" 

                            ______________________________________________________________________________________________   

KENWOOD Vineyards especially exemplifies the stylistic range that makes this original California grape so noteworthy.  KENWOOD's two single-vineyard wines and the Sonoma County bottling showcase Zinfandel's varied personality, from bold and spicy to generous and smooth, even as they underscore the ripe, generous fruit that demonstrates the qualities that Sonoma County offers this grape.

                           ____________________________________________________________________________

   GALLO OF SONOMA has a number of new releases of several varietals for your interest and pleasure. 

                    ___________________________________________________________________________________

LANCASTER Estate is a 53-acre hillside vineyard located in the southeast corner of Sonoma Country' Alexander Valley.  Equidistant from the Russian River, Knight's Valley and Chalk Hill AVA's, the rolling vineyard slopes, enjoying the aptly named Golden-Triangle climate--unique in the realm of
Cabernet-family varietals. Here, Lancaster is composed of the lots that show the most brilliant expression of each vintage.  Comprised of elevations ranging from 150 to 400 feet with a myriad of soils and facings, the 70 acre estate is anything but ordinary.   Scion and rootstock match each site to ensure that natural vine balance and rhythm are achieved. Just a half mile away, the Russian River provides a moderate cooling influence to the abundant Sonoma sunshine- a rare combination that resonates in the wines.  LANCASTER produces red wines exclusively--a Bordeaux-style blend with two single-vineyard wines.  Each year, Lancaster Estate makes one remarkable wine--a blend that is entirely vintage and estate reflective.   Focused entirely on Cabernet-family varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon may be more prevalent in any given vintage while Merlot may take center stage in another. Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot round out the winemaker's palette, providing textural and aromatic complexity to the final blend.  The youngster is making a big splash with big, plump, plummy, fruit forward framed by chewy tannins and a long finish wines.  Already a medal winner, LANCASTER Estates holds a bold promise you'll want to discover early on and follow.

                    _____________________ _______________________________________________________________

IRON HORSE has released three wines from Winemaker Forrest Tancer's T bar T Vineyard: 2001 Viognier, 2001 Cuvee R and 1999 Sangiovese.  Joy Sterling says the "The Viognier is pure perfume, the Cuvee R is very special to me and smells exactly like T-bar-T in the springtime when the Manzanita and Madrones are in bloom, and the Sangiovese is a knock out."  Half of Iron Horse's production is in still wines made from both the "home vineyard" in cool climate Green Valley where the winery stands and where the family resides, and from winemaker, partner and son-in-law Forrest Tancer's T bar T vineyard in the northeast foothills of the Alexander Valley, which on any given day can be ten degrees warmer. Iron Horse is completely estate bottled with 250 acres in vine.

                    _____________________________________________________________________________________

CHATEAU POTELLE, awarded Wine & Spirits magazines' "Winery of the Year" for the second year in a row, has released two wines. 
Marketta and Jean-Noël Fourmeaux came to California in 1980 to taste California wines and learn about all aspects of California winemaking philosophy and vineyard management.  After six months and tasting 2000 wines, they sent a telegram back home saying "looks good, we stay," moving to California in 1983.   According to the winemaking couple, hillside vineyards have it over flat-land vineyards in every way, especially in the intensity and character of the wines, so they purchased, in 1988, their 202 acres Estate on Mount Veeder-1800 feet up dramatically rolling hills and forests.  Chateau Potelle is located in a small mountain valley of striking natural beauty, where rolling vineyards create a picturesque patchwork, framed by 360 degree views and majestic mountaintops, where nature has surpassed itself. As Marketta says "To us this is more than a winery and vineyard, it is our home. We journeyed 7 years and half way around the world to find it."

                    _____________________________________________________________________________________

TIGNANELLO 1999 ($80) is the super Tuscan, single-vineyard wine from Antinori-- 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc.
Taste: Intensely fruity and complex on the nose, full-bodied, rich and complex in the mouth with exceptional structure and a lengthy finish.
Vinification: The Tignanello vineyard is among the last to be harvested, and only painstakingly selected grapes are used in this eponymous wine. The  Cabernets were harvested from September 25 and the Sangiovese a week later. The grapes were vinified separately and new methods were used, which guarantee a very gentle processing.  Maceration took place in 50 hectoliter open wooden fermenters with periodic cap submersion for better extraction of colour, complexity and tannins. During this time (15 days for the Sangiovese and 20 days for the Cabernets), the wine completed its alcoholic fermentation at a temperature never exceeding 30°C. The wine was then transferred into 225 liter French oak barrels (new and one-year- old Troncais and Alliers), where malolactic fermentation was terminated by the year's end. The wines were then racked, blended and returned to the barriques for about 14 months of  aging, after which time they were bottled and aged for a further 12 months before release. Alcohol: 13.5 % vol.
History: The original Super-Tuscan, Tignanello is produced exclusively from the Tignanello vineyard, a 47 hectares (116 acres) southwest-facing, calcareous rocky-marl and limestone soil planted between 1,150 and 1,312 feet above sea level at Antinori's Santa Cristina Estate. It was the first Sangiovese to be aged in small oak barrels, the first red wine in modern times to use a non-traditional grape variety, Cabernet, in the blend, and among the first red wines made in Chianti  with no white grapes. In all three instances, it set the example for a new breed of  exceptional top-of-the-line Italian wine.  Tignanello, originally a Chianti Classico Riserva labeled Vigneto Tignanello, was first vinified as a single vineyard wine in the 1970 vintage, when it contained 20% Canaiolo and 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia, and was aged in small oak cooperage. With the 1971 vintage the wine became a Vino da Tavola della Toscana and was named Tignanello after the vineyard from which it originates. Beginning with this vintage, Tignanello stopped adhering to the rules laid down by Chianti Classico Disciplinare, and with the 1975 vintage, white grapes were totally eliminated. Since the 1982 vintage, the blend has been 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. Tignanello was not produced in the 1972, 1973, 1974, 1976, 1984 and 1992 vintages.

                    _________________________________________________________________________________

                    __________________________________________________________________________________

                    ___________________________________________________________________________________

LINDEMANS 2002 Bin 65 Chardonnay $8 has already won four gold medals at Australian wine shows.  It is the number one imported Chardonnay in the United States.  Fresh melon and tropical fruit character, nose has underlying oak complexity, full creamy tropical fruits or pineapple, melon, and white peach, well balanced, fresh acidity with a nutty oak character, medium bodied and a long full and soft finish."

                    ___________________________________________________________________________________

BRANCOTT produces its New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot wines in Marlborough, located on the northeastern tip, and its Chardonnay in Gisborne.

                    ___________________________________________________________________________________

VINA COUSINO-MACUL has an ultra-sophisticated  winery in Buin.  Six years after acquiring this new site (in a sub-region of  Maipo Valley) Chile's oldest family-owned winery moved into its modern estate winery in time for the 2002 harvest.  It has now released two new wines.

                    ___________________________________________________________________________________

ROBERT STEMMLER 2000 "Three Clone" Chardonnay, Carneros $25: "An ambitious Chardonnay that is refined and complete.  A generous bouquet of baked apple, macadamia nut and honeydew weaved with tropical layers, courted with scents of fresh bread dough and pear.  A core of green apple and ripe melon are dusted with cocoa.  Elegance unfolds into creamy textures, lingering to a finale of lemon meringue."  www.robertstemmlerwinery.com 

                    ___________________________________________________________________________________

                    ____________________________________________________________________________________

RODNEY STRONG Winemaker Rick Sayre says that "after decades of cultivating Merlot in Northern Sonoma appellations, we introduced the second vintage of our Estate Merlot.  Merlot, meaning young blackbird, is known for sweeter and more delicate qualities than it's red Bordeaux counterparts.

                    _____________________________________________________________________________________

                    _____________________________________________________________________________________

VALLEY OF THE MOON 1999 Cuvee de la Luna, Sonoma Valley $28: "Combining the rich fruit of California Cabernet Sauvignon (68%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (2%), this wine has finesse and complexity offered by the exceptional 1999 vintage.   Robust yet refined, this wine brims with fresh raspberry and black currant, accented by subtle vanilla, cedar and spice notes.  Elegant structure and beautiful balance add to its youthful appeal while assuring a long and positive evolution.

                    ______________________________________________________________________________________

                    _______________________________________________________________________________________

KING ESTATE has released three deliciously different bottles of Pinot Gris.  "Reflected in each of these wines is the culmination of all the key precursors to quality Pinot Gris production in place," says Director of Marketing Miles Johnson.  "Often described as clean and green. Oregon's growing conditions are ideal for Pinot Gris.  20001 was our 10th harvest in Oregon and we enjoyed nearly perfect growing conditions."

                    _______________________________________________________________________________________

CHATEAU SOUVERAIN 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley $20: "This elegant wine shows deep color and rich ripe plum, chocolate, and vanilla aromas, a round,  supple mouth, with black cherry and coffee that leads into subtle notes of dried herb, smoky vanilla and bittersweet chocolate with a long toasty oak finish."

                       


 

© 2003 Sarah Jane English
Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com
Webmaster:Texas Computer Technologies