The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 53rd Edition
October 19, 2002
TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
($best buy) (prices vary store to store)
Varietal:
Mixed (if you can't find these vintages, try currently available
vintage
Winery of
the Month: Domaine Chandon--DOMAINE CHANDON is
taking the new millennium seriously by continuing to introduce new
products. Once an innovator, always an innovator and the story is
ongoing. Recently, DOMAINE CHANDON introduced three, individual still
wines: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier--the wines traditionally blended to
make sparkling wines (please see SJE web site Newsletter 51). Some
history-- Almost 30 years ago, Moet & Chandon's winemaker searched the globe
for an idyllic site to grow Champagne's classic Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and
Chardonnay. Carneros was the answer. Founded in 1973, Domaine
Chandon was the first sparkling wine producer outside Champagne to be
established by a French house using only the traditional method. Now the
producer owns 1100 acres in Carneros, on Mt. Veeder, in Yountville (where the
visitor's Center opened in 1977) and Lakeville. Recently, another
offering has come from the sparkling sector, DOMAINE CHANDON RICHE: "This
wine is a tribute to the ripe characteristics of California fruit. Along
with the classic sparkling varieties, we added Muscat to the blend for a unique
aroma and flavor experience. I don’t think you’ll find another sparkling wine
quite like it." - Wayne Donaldson Winemaker. CHANDON continues to explore
the diversity of sparkling wine styles with RICHE, an extra-dry style.
Crafted to be a luscious, full-bodied wine, it captures the ripe-fruit essence
of California's sun-drenched vineyards. The wine displays a whisper of sweetness
yet it maintains Chandon's characteristic long, soft finish. An inviting
floral bouquet is followed by rich, honeyed fruit flavors that harmonize with
the velvety-soft texture. Luscious peach and white nectarine layered with honey
and apricot persist throughout the long finish. Pair with rich and spicy
foods and fruit based desserts. Chandon's Executive Chef Eric
Torralba and Winemaker Wayne Donaldson explain that this sweeter style wine
coats the palate and balances the heat of spicy foods, complementing dishes
featuring chilies, cilantro, lemon grass, or green curry. This wine works
equally well with rich foods like pate and foie gras, or desserts like fresh
fruit tarts and tart tatin. For a refreshing aperitif, pour ice-cold Chandon
Riche into a chilled flute. Of course, there are still the other tasty
sparklers from Domaine Chandon to enjoy. Chandon Brut
Classic--full-bodied yet soft and dry, it refreshes and cleanses the
palate when eating salty, creamy or nutty foods; such as, caramelized onions,
garlic dishes, Caesar salad, mussels, clams and oysters. Chandon Carneros Blanc de Noirs--soft red fruit flavors,
lingering creamy texture, it is a most friendly food wine. It complements
everything from fruity and spicy to salty foods--Southwestern, Mexican and Asian
cuisines. Chandon Reserve--additional aging
time on the yeast creates richer, more complex creamy, yeasty and nutty flavors
that stand up to stronger, richer foods like smoked fish, grilled or roasted
white meats, shellfish. étoile--a classically crafted aperitif style wine with a fine and
elegant structure and a long, soft finish with flavors of lemon meringue pie
that pairs well with delicate or sweet flavors such as sea bass or grilled
scallops. étoile
rosé--a
balance of bold fruit flavors and sublime delicacy, the understated power pairs
wonderfully with foie gras, lobster and entrees rich in cream sauces.
Please do not be limited by these suggestions; rather, try them with your own
multitudinous food styles. Sparkling wines are among the best food pairing
wines for most all foods.
NEWS
KENDALL-JACKSON Celebrated its 20th Harvest with a commemorative 2001 Chardonnay by Winemaster Randy Ullom from estate fruit, $16. The special Tribute is 100 percent chardonnay, 97 percent barrel fermented with 100 percent malolactic fermentation, aged seven months in small French (59 percent) and American (41 percent) oak barrels. Ullom says the wine is "full of ripe pear, peach and tropical mango with a backbone of lemon drop aromas." Barrel fermentation and aging adds "layers of vanilla creaminess." The anniversary package has a Limited Release graphic and a two-part label of the K-J leaf logo above a 20th Harvest Release banner. "We've crafted a very special wine for our friends and K-J fans to observe a remarkable anniversary," Randy says. "There are certainly wineries with longer histories, but the accomplishments of the Jackson family in just two short decades are notable, and well worth celebrating."
ENCHANTMENT RESORT and MII AMO, the destination spa at ENCHANTMENT, are offering exceptional values during the fall season in the 220 newly refurbished, adobe-style casita accommodations in Boynton Canyon, AZ--minutes from Sedona's arts and cultural scene. For information: 800/826-4180, www.enchantmentresort.com, www.miiamo.com
GINA GALLO, Gallo of Sonoma winemaker, was honored At
Bon Appétit/Food Network - American Food and Entertaining Awards Ceremony in New
York, October 1, as the initial recipient of the "Wine & Spirits
Professional" Award for 2002. Annually, Bon Appétit pays tribute to culinary
luminaries who inspire and enrich our lives, and awardees are counted among
chefs, restaurateurs, writers, food artisans and other professionals who have
made significant contributions to the epicurean world. Other 2002 honorees
include:
Chef of the Year: Tom Colicchio (Craft & Gramercy Tavern, New
York)
Restaurateur: Joachim Splichal (The Patina Group, Los Angeles)
Pastry Chef: Claudia Fleming (Pret A Manger, New York)
Cooking Teacher:
Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, Chicago)
Humanitarian: The
National Association of Letter Carriers (mail carriers, worldwide)
Lifetime
Achievement: Robert Mondavi (Robert Mondavi Winery, California)
Gina Gallo
produces internationally acclaimed, award-winning wines. More
information: www.gallosonoma.com.
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY WINEGROWERS
WIN BIG AT HARVEST FAIR: Russian River Valley (RRV) pinot noir,
chardonnay and zinfandel were favorites at the Sonoma County 2002 Harvest Fair
Awards. RRV won 162 medals, representing 28 percent of the
Fair’s 585 medals. Pinot noir received the lion’s share with 10 gold
medals. RRV totaled 28 gold medals, six winning Best of Class --33% of the
awards given. Wines from the Russian River Valley also took 83 silver and 51
bronze medals. For more information on next year’s Grape to Glass or to
learn more, please contact the Russian River Valley Winegrowers at
707-521-2534 or visit www.rrvw.org.
GALLO OF SONOMA OPENS FIRST TASTING
ROOM: After 70 years, the Gallo Family opened a public wine tasting room
in historic Healdsburg. As well as counter tastings, in-depth tastings at
seated tables are offered. Flights may offer three gold medal winners,
three varietals from different appellations or rare, estate wines. The
focus is on Sonoma County, Single Vineyard and Estate Gallo of Sonoma
wines. Open 11:00am - 5:00pm Sunday - Wednesday and 11:00am - 7:00pm
Thursday - Saturday at 320 Center Street in Healdsburg.
WILD HORSE Winery and Vineyards President Ken Volk is insatiably
curious of just about every subject. He is a prolific learner. Once
when I visited WILD HORSE and he was touring me around his winery and through
the region in pouring rain, he explained about the native wild horses that named
his winery, why the rains were so torrential--from the cause of cloud formations
to wind directions-- what caused the flooding by describing geographic plains
and river flows and any other question I posed was answered just as
thoroughly. So it didn't surprise me to learn he knew everything
about Heirloom tomatoes. What did surprise me was that he sent some to
me!! And they were scrumptiously delicious. This year marked the 3rd
annual Heirloom Tomato Celebration held at the winery in Templeton during
September. If you want to attend next year, call (805)
434-2541.
***

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)
Special Sparkling Wine Section for Holidays
IRON HORSE owners Audrey and Barry Sterling and Forrest Tancer greeted me warmly and introduced me to the glories of their sparkling wines in 1984. The first article I wrote on California wines was about Audrey and her legendary talent for hospitality and entertaining with IRON HORSE wines. Over the years, other members of the Sterling family have joined the endeavor and added their special touches. And the wines have always been stellar and continue to bring pleasure. The latest report from Joy Sterling Tancer is of high hopes for the 2002 vintage. There were a couple of heat blasts during a relatively cool growing season and some late May rains and a hailstorm during flowering that showed uneven ripening in some Pinot Noir. The problem is solved by thinning clusters. Meanwhile, the current releases are happily bottled and ready for enjoyment. Joy's especially excited about the Blanc de Blancs and the LD (late disgorged) wines, however, she believes the Wedding Cuvee might be the most surprising and that the Russian Cuvee may prove to the majority favorite. Try them all and decide for yourself. There's always an excellent IRON HORSE from Winemkaer Forest Tancer for everyone. See his comments below, please.
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GLORIA FERRER first introduced GLORIA FERRER Royal Cuvee ten vintages ago. Winemaker Bob Iantosca spares no time or expense in making this exquisite wine. "Superb fruit, gentle handling, rigorous selection, and ample patience are required to achieve the balance and nuance found in the Royal Cuvee, Bob says. "Eighteen base wines made from the finest first-press lots were chosen for the final blend, which was aged on the yeast for minimum of six years to develop complex flavors and pinpoint effervescence. The newly released GLORIA FERRER 1994 Royal Cuvee $22 is representatively versatile and delicious with just about anything you want to enjoy eating with it. The wine is round, smooth, creamy and wonderfully complex, with aromas and flavors of toasted almonds, fresh-baked brioche and caramelized pears. "Exceptionally well balanced, this sparkling wine may be enjoyed on its own or with a wide array of foods year-round. Ideal for celebrating the holidays, it is also delicious with spicy Chinese, Thai or Indian cuisines, and with creamy lobster risotto or phyllo triangles stuffed with sautéed wild mushrooms or tempura, sushi and Parmigiano." Bob, however, also makes delicious still wines. Romantically described, "Great wines under $25, such as Chardonnays that are svelte as super models, or supple Pinot Noirs that pair sublimely with al fresco menus and fall festivities, these wines--GLORIA FERRER 2000 Carneros Pinot Noir and GLORIA FERRER 2000 Carneros Chardonnay-- impress in every category. The Pinot Noir continues as a traditional, medium bodied, cool climate style with emphasis on fruit and finesse. It's sleek, delicious and filled with raspberry, red currant and mocha flavors. The GLORIA FERRER 2000 Chardonnay exemplifies the unusually fine balance between richness and acidity that distinguishes our Carneros Chardonnay year after year. Regular battonage (lees stirring) has developed the rich apple, butterscotch, and key lime aromas interlaced with pineapple, lemon and toast highlighted with flavors of pineapple, lemon, and toasts."
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SCHRAMSBERG was founded in 1862 by Jacob
Schram--the first hillside winery in Napa Valley. Robert Louis
Stevenson, visiting in 1880, devoted a chapter of his Silverado Squatters
to Schramsberg and its wines... "The original house and winery have been
excellently preserved." In 1965, Jack and Jamie
Davies, after a yearlong search, happened upon the old decrepit
winery. Although abandoned for some time, the historic property
seemed to exude the spirit of its strong and compelling founder. This was it,
this was the place. On that day Schramsberg was brought back to life.
Jack
and Jamie wanted to make wine--"America's most prestigious, select and admired
sparkling wine, rich with delicate cuvées of individuality and style.
They began the immense enterprise: replanting scarce grapes, producing
initial cuvées, and engaging the world with the Schramsberg story. There
were achievements and innovations: first commercial use of
Chardonnay in American sparkling wine with the 1965 Blanc de Blancs; the
1967 Blanc de Noirs followed, and then the Reserve, with over four years of
aging and others, including in 1992 a Tête du Cuvée, the release of the 1987 J.
Schram--their crowning glory.
In 1996 Hugh, the Davies' youngest
son, added his talent to the winemaking staff. Sadly, Jack's untimely
death occurred in 1998.
J SCHRAM is dedicated to the
founder. "This special cuvée reflects Schramsberg's continuing role as a
pioneer in world class sparkling wines.
"The 1996 vintage
expresses the desired cultivated elegance--a harmony of power and finesse.
Seductive aromas of honey and roasted pecans add dimension to the
Chardonnay-based notes of lemon, pineapple, and melon. The viscous, creamy
texture and robust flavors give way to a long, dry, and crisp finish. It
balances richness and firm acidity, giving it classic structure.
Enjoy!" Hugh Davies, Winemaker
SCHRAMSBERG 1998 Blanc de Blancs (white
from white) is the counterpart of Blanc de Noirs (white from black). It is
made from Chardonnay. "Crisp
very fine, elegant and refreshing.
Abundant flavors of lemon, apple, pear, and pineapple. With its bright
fruit and crisp character, it's ideal with a variety of fresh seafoods, a
delicious aperitif or an accompaniment to light poultry, cheese, and vegetable
courses.
SCHRAMSBERG 1998 Blanc de Noirs (white from black) is the
counterpart of Blanc de Blancs (white from white). With the use of red grapes,
Blanc de Noirs presents richer fruit, more berry aromas and is typically given
more age in fermentation. Schramsberg pioneered Blanc de Noirs in the
United States, producing the first such cuvée in 1967. Pinot Noir
gives depth, intriguing fruit flavors, and lovely aroma. Small amounts of
Chardonnay add structure and fullness. It has layers of toasted almond,
caramel, cherry and spice, pair with lighter meats such as veal and pork
tenderloin, caviar and smoked fish, risotto with chanterelles and vegetables or
cheese soufflés.
MIRABELLE Brut is Schramsberg's affordable and delicious
multi-vintage Brut. It is made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes
harvested at optimal maturity from select, low-yielding north coast
vineyards. Mirabelle is crisp, fruity, lively and well-balanced and
has been touted as "simply one of the best affordable sparkling wines on the
market." Using the Méthode Champenoise, MIRABELLE Brut is elegant,
toasty and crisp with complex flavors. The wine's Northern California heritage
is clear as the fruitiness and freshness of the first taste continues straight
through to the finish. The versatile wine matches well with shellfish,
light appetizers, soups, fish and pasta
dishes.
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KORBEL Established in 1882, Korbel Champagne Cellars has helped celebrate America's important events for more than 119 years. Korbel is the number one selling premium méthode champenoise-produced champagne in America.
Czechoslovakian-born Frantisek (Francis)
Korbel, a young man in Prague in 1848, was rumored to have fired the shot
that started a revolution against the ruling Hapsburgs monarchy. Francis
was detained in Daliborka prison, but escaped one day by walking out an unlocked
gate, smoking a cigar and wearing civilian clothes brought to him by his
grandmother. Francis quickly left for New York and began learning the
cigar-making business. After a few years in New York, he moved to booming San Francisco and
opened a storefront that repaired cigar boxes. He lacked the investment
to produce new boxes, so he sent for his brothers Joseph and Anton to join
him. By 1862, F. KORBEL & Bros. was so successful the brothers were
importing exotic veneers from around the world, shipping via their
schooner. They built a successful business producing materials for the
building industry in San Francisco. In one of many setbacks, the
storefront burned down and the brothers struggled to start again.
Eventually, the northern California lumber business boomed, and the Korbels
invested in a number of projects, including a sawmill and property near the town
of Guerneville. In the early 1870s, Francis purchased the property in
partnership with a fellow entrepreneur, and brought another brother, Winsel,
from Bohemia to run the business. Winsel fell ill and died before he could
begin the enterprise, so the remaining brothers bought out the partner and ran
the business. Once the lumber boom slowed, the brothers
researched other uses for their ranch. The land was good for agriculture . .
. in short, perfect for growing and making wines. The Korbel
brothers planted their first vineyards and sold grapes until the market was
saturated with growers and then began production of their own
champagne. By 1882, the three brothers had begun a small winemaking
operation at their ranch, producing 20,000 to 30,000 gallons. KORBEL wines
were so well received that two years later the brothers converted all of their
ranch lands to vineyards, and devoted all of their energy to
winemaking. The Korbels brought winemaker Frank Hasek from
Prague to be their champagne master. Employing the time-honored méthode
champenoise, the Korbels experimented with cuvées. By the mid-1890s, the
Korbels shipped their first champagnes, and by the turn of the century KORBEL
was an internationally known, award-winning label.
Prohibition
in the 1920s forced the closing of many wineries across the country.
KORBEL survived by depending on the brothers' other business ventures and
accumulated resources. Sadly, Francis, Joseph and Anton all passed away before
Repeal in 1933. They died not knowing their champagne creation had become
an enduring legacy. Fortunately, a second KORBEL generation carried
on the production of méthode champenoise champagnes--late 1930s to 1954.
There was an expansion in the 1950s of vineyards and the large 1880s
winery. The family of seven
KORBEL cousins agreed to sell the winery and vineyards predicated on certain
terms--preserving the legacy of their fathers. One buyer, Adolf Heck, satisfied all conditions. He was a
determined young winemaker introduced a new family into the KORBEL
story.
All Korbel champagnes use the méthode champenoise process. Labels designate--"Fermented in THIS bottle" to distinguish from other sparkling wines and champagnes produced by the less quality-ooriented transfer method and Charmat process, which are labeled "Fermented in The bottle" and "Bulk Method" respectively.
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NEW
RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers'
comments)
DOMINUS is the proprietary wine produced since 1983 in the Heart of Napa Valley by Christian Moueix and his team. The goal was to have their wines express the unique terroir properties at their historic Napanook Vineyard. It long has been recognized for producing extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon, the essential varietal for DOMINUS. Today the vineyard is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remaining acreage with the other classic Bordeaux varietals: merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Cabernet Sauvignon, the foundation of DOMINUS, imparts the wine's intense aromas of cassis and cherries with notes of vanilla and licorice. Merlot gives DOMINUS its deep purple color and flattering roundness, often adding exotic scents of mushroom, wild game and blackberries, while Cabernet Franc brings a supple delicacy and finesse and aging ability. Petit Verdot contributes dense, lively tannins and completes the wine's fragrance with spicy, floral aromas. Since its first release, DOMINUS has been known for its complexity and earthy character, reflections of the Napanook Vineyard terroir. Christian believes that wine begins in the vineyard; consequently, each vintage is unique. Additionally, different varietal compositions give each vintage distinction. The 1999 DOMINUS ($110) season was noteworthy with a very dry winter, followed by a cold spring and mil summer. The berries were quite small, resulting in a concentrated wine that will need long cellaring to reveal its full potential. Due to small berries and low yields--lowest of the decade--bottling was done one month earlier than usual to preserve the exceptional fruit character. The 1999 NAPANOOK ($45) is also grown on the historic vineyard that dates back to the mid-19th century at the foot of the Mayacamas Mountains in Yountville. It is renowned for producing Cabernet Sauvignon, NAPANOOK's essential varietal. Christian Moueix first released this wine in 1996, intending it to be enjoyed in its younger years. NAPANOOK is a blend of four varietals chosen from vineyard lots known for their finesse, lively fruit and subtle tannins. The winemaking team's goal is to find the perfect equilibrium between these elements, creating a wine that is harmonious in balance and pleasurable to drink. This wine is made to be enjoyed with food. It will also age well for ten years. In 1999, "La Nina" created a dry winter, cold spring and mild summer. the long growing season resulted in even ripening of the fruit, giving the quality, flavors and desired balance. New oak was used sparingly to respect the fruity character of the wine.
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"At BUTTONWOOD, we can blither and blather about all sorts of things, but it's our wines that truly speak for us," says the winemaking team. " Enjoy!"
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BOUCHAINE Winemaker David Stevens says, "This wine has just
about everything I like about Pinot Noir: loads of berry fruit, appropriate oak,
nice complexity and the structure for it to stand up to food now and improve
with a few more years in bottle. BOUCHAINE 2000 Pinot Noir, Gee Vineyard
is $50 and "power and concentration are its beautiful traits, especially when
woven into this rich tapestry. This anniversary release is assertive with
a jammy jumble of Marion berries and huckleberries. Oak is apparent in the
smoky nose, on the palate with hints of pipe tobacco, and in the long, crisp
finish with lingering berry and cedar notes. There's enough
structure to carry the wine through many years of cellaring."
Bouchaine, founded in 1981, is a 104-acre
estate (97 acres of vineyard) in Napa's Carneros District (AVA). Just
north of San Pablo Bay, the climate is directly influenced by the fog that
floats in each night. The shallow, mostly clay soils are best suited to Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay produced by Bouchaine.
Bouchaine
Vineyards, the oldest operating winery in Carneros, was first planted in vines
and fruit trees in the mid-1800s by Boon Fly and his family. After 1900,
the property was established as the Garetto Winery and Vineyards. Johnny
Garetto sold the ranch to Beringer Brothers in 1951 and Beringer used the site
as their Carneros winemaking facility for the next thirty years. It is now owned
and operated by Garret and Tatiana Copeland of Wilmington, Delaware. A massive
and long overdue renovation of the winery was completed in
1995.
Winemaking at Bouchaine is a dynamic process where
diversity is created by tailoring vinification and cellar practices to the
individual vineyard lots. Most Chardonnay lots are barrel fermented and aged
sur lie for six months or longer to add texture and toasty vanilla
nuances. A fraction of the wine is cold-fermented in stainless steel tanks to
preserve delicate floral aromas. Depending on the vintage, 25-40% of the
Chardonnay goes through malolactic fermentation to soften the lean, citrus
character of the Carneros grapes. Balance, complexity, and a unique expression
of varietal fruit defines Bouchaine Chardonnays.
Traditional methods of Pinot Noir production begin with one-quarter to one-third
whole cluster fermentation in open-top fermenters, punching down 2-3 times daily
and gentle racking into barrels after pressing. Red wines sit on malolactic lees
for up to 12 months, then are blended and bottled.
Winemaker David Stevens continues Bouchaine's philosophy of producing wines that
are crisp, well-balanced and elegant, that demonstrate the varietal
characteristics of fruit grown in the Carneros region and neighboring
areas.
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KENWOOD VINEYARDS proudly marked 30 vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon production with the debut of its 1999 Sonoma County wine. It captures the superb quality of the vintage and the unique diversity of Sonoma County's premium vineyard regions. It combines full-bodied fruit and lush, polished texture. The growing season yielded intensely flavored Cabs in Sonoma, especially in the mountain vineyards flanking Sonoma Valley that serve as the primary grape sources for this wine. After stainless steel fermentation, the young wine aged in small French and American oak barrels for 22 months--keeping vineyard lots separate. The final blend (76% Cabernet Sauvignon/19% Merlot'5% Cabernet Franc) integrates layered fruit aromas and supple texture, soft tannins in the long, balanced finish. KENWOOD VINEYARDS 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon is$20 and 55,000 cases were produced.
KENWOOD VINEYARDS Artist Series is a special treat. After more than two decades, the Artist's Series Cabernet Sauvignon shows exceptionally the marriage of fine wine and a fine label. The artistry displayed within the bottle is enhanced by that on the outside. Yet Kenwood Vineyards and Winemaker Mike Lee have always seen the Artist Series Collection as a work in progress, with each vintage a unique opportunity to excel. Drawing primarily on hillside vineyards in the Mayacamas Mountains, Mike Lee meticulously crafts each Cabernet Sauvignon to be an ultimate expression of the vintner’s art. Over the years, the Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon has evolved in style, but never wavered in quality; it consistently ranks among California’s very best. The Artist Series originated in 1978--the idea was to have a distinctive package showcasing outstanding art.. Local artist David Lance Goines created a beautiful naked woman on a vineyard slope for the first reserve-style 1975 Cabernet Sauvignon. It was rejected by the TABC as "obscene and indecent" so only 228 bottles with the "Naked Lady" label were permitted to leave the winery--launching the Artist Series in a big way. One of my favorites is the 1996 by Wayne Thiebaud. By the 1980s, Winemaker Mike Lee began moving in a new direction, blending wines so mouthfilling fruit was complemented by grace and complexity. French oak barrels replaced American ones. In the 1990s, a new aging regimen allowed the wines more time in the barrel and the bottle. These incremental changes had dramatic results--a Cabernet Sauvignon with richly layered fruit, integrated oak and polished texture, enjoyable in its youth but with plenty of potential for cellar development. KENWOOD VINEYARDS Artist Series 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon $75, the new release, is the 24th vintage in Kenwood Vineyard’s landmark series saluting the arts.
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SHAFER VINEYARDS reports that some wine trend-watchers have declared that Merlot's moment of glory has come and gone. Not so, according to President Doug Shafer. He says, "In general, Merlot unfortunately has fallen victim to over planting and overproduction. I fear people will equate it with something thin and green that doesn't express the variety, when in fact Merlot can be--and it should be--a gorgeous wine. We were there before it became the hot new varietal and we certainly aren't finished with it. We made a conscious move in 1999 to push ripeness, looking for bigger, richer style and this release continues that move. Our Winemaker Fernandez says the 2000 Merlot exhibits intense color with aromas of wet earth, warm herbs and spice, a palate of core sweet plums and black cherry ending with soft elegant tannin--a delicious start to a new decade of wines to come." SHAFER VINEYARDS 2000 Merlot is $39. SHAFER VINEYARDS has also released its signature wine--SHAFER VINEYARDS 1998 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon $150. Doug says that at one point in the decade's most challenging growing season, he wondered if there would be a 1998 Hillside Select. "It was a tough year, pure and simple--cooler-than-typical spring, unseasonable rain and wind caused extensive shatter, and then heat--at one pint 114 degrees! We had uneven ripening within clusters, sunburn, you name it. What saved us? About 20 years of grape growing and winemaking experience. We've seen tough years before--'83, '88, '89, '93--and we simply refused to throw in the towel. Skilled vineyard crews spent 25% more hours opening up the canopy, making pass after pass through the vine rows dropping fruit and pulling excess greenery. Then we waited as end of harvest rain clouds gathered. Fernandez and I were patient and waited, and waited and waited--until the fruit reached ideal ripeness. We spent a whole lot more effort to make a whole lot less wine and it was worth every minute, every sleepless night and heart palpitation. A vintage like '98 shows the deep-down character of the vineyard. The SHAFER VINEYARDS 1998 Hillside Select has deep, rich color, exemplary soft tannins and luscious fruit, forward aromatics, a pleasing blend of currants, vanilla and mineral and amazing finish."
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CHALONE WINE GROUP has several new releases.
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BONNY DOON proprietor, the ever originally witty and researchingly philosophical Randall Grahm--the so-named President for Life of BONNY DOON--has enlisted the aid of John Locke--not the 18th century whiz, but a modern one--to help with day to day matters. One wonders how long he searched to find a man named John Locke to join him. AH, that clever man. The latest releases may be just as inspiring: LE CIGARE VOLENT 2000, Red Wine, California $32 and the Framboise $12. Of LE CIGARE, our impresario says "The 2000 is big and rich, but a very different cat from the '99--downright feminine in the manner of a lynx or ocelot. Its presentation is not hot, but rather cool, indeed, way cool and as noir as anything out of James Cain, and as dark as a Huysmanian (I couldn't find the word listed in Webster's Third or the OED--although Huxter, a form of Huckster, preceded "huy") revel. The wine is scented with griottes, licorice, anise and beet root, smoked meat and cool dark earth; it is very satisfying and savory. . . this wine is very yin--earth rather than sky, soft rather than hard, waiting rather than acting." Of the FRAMBOISE $12 for 375ml, he says "Still the essence of raspberry . . . our Framboise derives from three highly aromatic varieties of respberries cultivated in Washington--Meeker, Tulameen and Morrison. We imagined we were approaching the theoritical limits on the raspberriocity potentiometer, however Morrison provides an extra quantum of flavor . . .befitting the one product that is doing its part to reverse the alarming trends in marital disharmony." For more amusements, see www.bonnydoonvineyard.com
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VALLEY OF THE MOON 1999 Sangiovese $15: "bright and bold, forward fruit and spice, fresh blackberry, pomegranate, red cherry and raspberry, subtle black pepper, anise, toast and earth notes, mouth filling richness balanced by generous acidity for a long finfish."
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GALLO properties have released a bevy of delicious wines--including a trio of Pinot Noirs and one of my favorites, MARCELINA.
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SOUTHCORP has released several still wines from Rosemount Estate and its sparkling Seaview Brut--a reasonably priced, well-made sparkling wine.
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ROBERT CRAIG ZIN harnesses the old world character of grapes from the Sierra foothills in a refined, elegant presentation. Grapes are from a dry-farmed, head-pruned vineyard are small, flavor packed and picked when fully ripe. ROBERT CRAIG Howell Mt. Cabernet comes from that rugged mountain range east of St. Helena noted for producing Cabernets of great depth and concentration.
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GEYSER PEAK 1999 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $40: "Individual batches of cabernet grapes from steep hillside vineyards were selected for this wine. Each batch was fermented separately. It is deep crimson with aromas of bright berry, black cherry an cassis combined with smoky barrel notes, sweet vanilla and spicy oak characters. The palate has great depth of concentrated cabernet franc and a backbone of fine-grained tannin."
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"We started FOREST GLEN ten years ago with the commitment to bring wines of quality and character, consistency an value to everyday wine drinkers," says General Manager Gary Ramona, "and with our first releases of Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot we found a tremendous welcome that has never ended."
"I am very proud of these wines," says Winemaker Ed Moody. "This Shiraz is one of our best since we introduced the varietal in 1995 and the Cabernet continues our tradition of making high-quality Cabernets year after year. We do this through excellent sourcing and vinification with an eye on what our consumers' tastes and budgets."
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STONE CREEK 2000 Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon California $8: "blackberry and jammy fruit, hint of earthiness, medium bodied, well balanced, partially aged in oak, rich flavors of ripe black berry and currant, accessible style for immediate enjoyment"
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BERINGER FOUNDERS' ESTATE 1999 Zinfandel, California $12: "Zinfandel is California's classic. Its frit flavors jump out at you--ripe blackberries, succulent plums, spicy notes of cinnamon, clove and peppercorn. Layers of flavors support the structure, sooth and delicious with herb-crusted pork, seasoned Italian sausages and farmhouse cheeses."
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MARQUES DE ARIENZO 1997 Reserva (95% Tempranillo) $15: "shows black cherry, touch of vanilla, some spicy nuances, touch earthiness, medium body, elegant mouthfeel, light tannins"
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CLOS DU BOIS has released its four Classic Wines, "representing the consumers favorites. They reflect the accessible and elegant winemaking style with fruit sourced from those regions that are best situated to each varietal, allowing our winemaking team a palette of flavors to craft blends and enhance character."
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BUENA VISTA has released four Carneros estate wines. Founded by Hungarian wine pioneer Count Agoston Haraszthy in 1857, Buena Vista is California's first premium winery.

KORBEL Contest: Top Ten Tips to Secure a "Yes" to a Marriage Proposal
On the verge of
proposing, but feel the pressure to make it "perfect?" Fret no
longer. Korbel President Gary Heck is helping three lucky winners make
their dream proposal come true in the first annual "Korbel's Perfect Proposal
Contest." The contest culminates on Valentine's Day 2003.
Korbel is inviting Americans to enter "Korbel's Perfect Proposal Contest" by
describing their dream proposal scenario and the reasons why they deserve to
win. Three lucky first prize winners will receive a diamond ring courtesy of
adiamondisforever.com, and have their perfect proposal coordinated by
internationally recognized event planner Sharon Sacks, founder and president of
Los Angeles-based Sacks Productions, Inc. From the flowers to the
champagne toast, your ultimate proposal can become a reality, and one
grand-prize winner will be selected from the three first prize winners to
receive $10,000 toward a luxurious honeymoon or wedding reception.
Entries will be judged on creativity, originality and
romantic theme. Entries will be accepted through December 15, 2002.
Make no
mistake, men it’s not just a diamond that’s “forever” when it comes
to proposals, the memories of the pomp and circumstance that accompany the “will
you marry me?” question last just as long. Your intended will be repeating her
proposal story to everyone she knows.
Top Ten Mistakes Men Make While Proposing:
After researching more than 10,000 proposal stories and
spending years in the industry advising men on popping the question, Cuellar has
compiled this list of mistakes to avoid, ensuring your proposal is blissful:
1. Proposing on a holiday or birthday: Consider picking a day meaningful to
your relationship, such as the anniversary of your first date. Your girlfriend
wants her day to shine – don’t propose on a holiday that can’t be yours as a
couple.
2. Allowing other women to try on the ring: It’s smart to get a
second opinion, but don’t use your fiancée’s friends as guinea pigs. Make sure
your fiancée is the first of her friends to see and wear her ring, and let her
enjoy the fun of showing it off for the first time.
3. Leaking the news:
When you’re ready to pop the question, don’t spill the beans to too many
“confidants.” Sharing the news with friends and family is more exciting if you
do it together.
4. Forgetting her family: Pull your manners out of the
closet and call the appropriate member of her family for “the talk.” According
to a recent survey conducted by Korbel, 42 percent of Americans feel the act of
asking a woman’s family for her hand – whether it be her father, mother or even
a sibling – is still a time-honored tradition.
5. Playing hide and seek with
the ring: Imagine this: you’re about to propose to your girlfriend when she
swallows the ring because you “cleverly” hid it in an ice cream cone or
cocktail. Sending your fiancée to the emergency room might not be the best way
to start your future.
6. Staging a practical joke: Minutes before the
proposal, throwing your girlfriend off by convincing her that you’re in jail or
that you won’t be ready for marriage for years could have unintended
consequences.
7. Missing the VIP treatment: Do your research and you’ll find
that many venues are happy to create a special setting for your proposal. For
example, many theaters will schedule private screenings, restaurants can provide
champagne toasts and amusement parks can offer private rides.
8. Exhibiting
suspicious behavior: As proposal time approaches, make sure your behavior
remains consistent with how you act on a daily basis. Repeatedly touching your
pocket to make sure the ring is secure and coming up with off-the-wall excuses
for your whereabouts can both be giveaways to the bride-to-be.
9. Acting
like you settled: A surefire way to ruin any proposal is to start with any of
the following statements:
“You win.”
“We’re not getting any younger . .
.
“In spite of what my mother says . . .”
“I have sowed my wild oats.”
10. Losing sight of what the proposal is all about: Your proposal will be
perfect if it is honest, heartfelt and passionate.

| © 2002 Sarah Jane English |
| Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com |
| Webmaster:Texas Computer Technologies |