From: sarajane@onr.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 2:31 PM
To: Dick Simmons
Subject: July 28, 2002, 51st Newsletter.htm

The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 51st Edition
July 28, 2002

Hello, my dear--Here's the July Newsletter.  Hope to see you soon.  Hugs, SJ

QUOTE (additionally to my ". . .blueberry and broccoli": "Freedom is the opportunity to make choices and the ability to discriminate among selections. Happiness is the ability to choose wisely." Sarah Jane English

HEADLINES: FOOD SPECIALS--FOOD SPECIALTIES: SASKATCHEWAN'S FINEST CANOLA OIL, and the very special NIELSEN-MASSEY VANILLA; LAETITIA WINERY of the MONTH; RECIPES: Canola Oil "South Pacific Zucchini Loaf" and Nielsen-Massey Valley "Chocolate Mint Brownies" and Fetzer Syrah with "Seared Double Cut Rack of Lamb Chops, Heirloom Tomato Salad and Chickpea Garlic Cake"; Top Wine Picks of the Month: NEWS; NEW RELEASES; FETZER on SYRAH;
 

CALENDAR: ST. FRANCIS WINERY will host a brunch September 2, 2002, during the SONOMA VALLEY HARVEST WINE AUCTION, August 3--September 2.  The four day event revoles around the Main Event Live Aucton on Sept. 1 at Sonoma Mission Inn.  For information on the Auction, please contact (707) 935-0803, www.sonomavalleywine.com; FETZER VINEYARDS announces a day-long harvest celebration. "Emeril in the Harvest Sun At Fetzer Vineyards"--  food, wine education and tastings, cooking with Emeril, live music, and much more on Saturday, September 14, 2002, from 9:30 AM to 5 PM, at Fetzer Vineyards Valley Oaks Ranch in Hopland, CA just 100 miles north of San Francisco.  $100 per person, including lunch and wines, all proceeds go to Emeril Lagasse Foundation, a non-profit organization supporting local and national children's charities. SPICEWOOD VINEYARDS, August 17-18,  2002 Harvest Wine Trail from 10-5 Saturday, 12-5 Sunday, Contact: 830/693-5328.  FALL CREEK VINEYARDS will celebrate its 13th Annual Grape Stomp & Harvest Festival, Saturday, August 17 and 24, from 11:00am to 5:00pm both days, contact: 915/379-5361 or www.fcv.com  The 3rd annual Heart of Texas Wine & Food Festival, Waco, TX  on Saturday, November 2, 2002,  noon until 4PM, tickets $20 in advance or $25 at the gate; this includes all food & wine. All proceeds benefit the American Heart Association. website www.hotwinefestival.com or contact Jay Ehret (254) 420-4790 or jay@themarketingspot.com.

Winery of the Month: LAETITIA Winery Representative Marc Laderreiere Treats Sarah Jane's Tasters, "LAETITIA Winery takes advantage of its special Southern California location to capture the essence of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc," Marc tells me.  However, Laetitia also makes delicious bubblies.  We tasted through several wines much to the delight of my tasting group.  One member, who has a strong preference for white wines, admitted that he really liked the Laetitia Pinot Noir just as well as the Laetitia whites. It's always a boon to find good expressions of this difficult  grape, and Laetitia does make elegant, clean, layered Pinot Noirs.    The Laetitia Estate was originally planted in 1982 and devoted to the production of sparkling wine.  Today, the majority of the 644 planted acres are used for the still wine --Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc--(a small portion is for the delicious sparkling wine).  

The Chardonnay Grape:  This varietal consistently produces rich flavor and complex structure. Chardonnay is the most widely produced white wine grape.  Its increased popularity in America led to extensive planting all over California.  Cooler areas with maritime influences, like the Santa Maria Valley and Santa Barbara coast, became recognized as ideal climates for growing Chardonnay.   A versatile grape, it can be made in a variety of styles--from the dry, crisp California style with buttery and oaky flavors, to bold, rich, ripe fruit flavors with hints of apple, fig,  pineapple, lemon and grapefruit.  At Laetitia, the winemaking team uses barrel fermentation, aging on the lees, and malolactic fermentation to add complexity to the grape's natural varietal characteristics.  

The Pinot Blanc Grape:   Although Pinot Blanc is a varietal that displays wonderful fruit and spice flavors, it is a less well-known grape in the United States.   Pinot Blanc is a genetic mutation of Pinot Gris, and a step cousin to Pinot Noir.  Widely planted in Alsace, the wine is  produced to be dry.  Pinot Blanc offers concentrated  flavors with hints of ripe pear, melon, spice, citrus and honey.  Although typically drunk young, aging will bring out honey flavors in the finish.  At Laetitia, the winemaking team uses Pinot Blanc both for the sparkling wine and still wine.  The Pinot Blanc is barrel fermented and undergoes 100% malolactic fermentation.

The Pinot Noir Grape: A Delicate Grape With Regal Style -- Pinot Noir has soft tannins, rich fruit and spice and is gaining popularity in the U.S.  Planted here in the early 1980s, found in relatively small amounts because the grape is so particular about climate and soil.   Many of the best vineyards are in Central Coast, California, and Oregon.   Marc says, "It's challenging to grow and reacts strongly to environmental changes in heat and cold.  It's notoriously fussy to work with due to easily bruised and broken thin skins.  Once pressed and fermented, Pinot Noir remains misleading to evaluate, hiding both its strengths and weaknesses.  It also deceives in the bottle, showing poorly one day and brilliantly the next.  Despite difficulties, the top vintages of Pinot Noir rank with the best wines in the world, and it is well worth the struggle.

AVILA WINERY, says Marc, is another property and it has been developed to sell quality wine at affordable prices, approximately $12 each.  Located near Avila Bay, the vineyard grows Burgundian varietals--Pinot Noir and Chardonnay--as well as Cabernet and Zinfandel.  These are delicious, reasonably priced wines.

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH (prices vary store to store)
Varietal:
Mixed

NEWS

TEXAS JUDGE LIFTS BAN ON WINE BY MAIL: According to an article in the Austin American Statesman on Saturday, July 20,
2002: "A federal judge in Houston ruled that out-of-state wineries should enjoy the same privilege of directly shipping to customers
that wineries within the state received during the last legislative session. . . . Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission assistant
administrator Randy Yarbrough said out-of-state wineries can begin shipping into Texas immediately but said the attorney general's
office could appeal the ruling . . . and then the Legislature would likely revisit the TABC code during its next session."

NEW FORMULA PREVENTS WINE HEADACHES: According to Tom Morse, president of Living Essentials (a healthcare firm seeking innovative technologies), "Chaser for Wine Headaches" is a preventative that allows people to enjoy wine without discomfort.  The patent pending 'Chaser" is a formulation of activated calcium carbonate, vegetable carbon and vitamin B2 to be taken with the first glass of wine.  Morse says, "These ingredients work in the stomach to attract and absorb headache-causing elements and prevent them from entering the bloodstream.  These elements, known as congeners, are a natural byproduct of the fermentation process that gives wine its color, aroma and flavor.  When released into the bloodstream, the immune system eliminates congeners by releasing cytokines, small molecular weight proteins that cause inflammation leading to headaches, body aches and nausea."  Stay tuned for results.

WOODBRIDGE and America's cheese makers are offering simple serving tips, wine and cheese pairings for your enjoyment in a new brochure: "Wine & Cheese Party."  Are you traveling less these days?  Get the brochure and plan a party at home.  "Wine and cheese are one of those simple pleasures, a natural combination that enhances any occasion.  Brochures are free and can be requested at www.woodbridgewines.com

PORT houses have announced 2000 a declared vintage.  The declaration is cause for particular excitement because 2000 may well prove to rival 1994 as the greatest port vintage of the century.  In the Douro Valley, the harvest produced perfectly ripe, thick-skinned berries yielding musts of impressive density and richness.  TAYLOR FLADGATE, FONSECA, CROFT, DELAFORCE and QUINTA DO NOVAL have all declared the vintage.  Taylor Fladgate Chairman Alistair Robertson says, " The 20th century produced some magnificent vintage ports and I am delighted that it has been crowned by a 2000 vintage of this quality.  Having overseen 33 harvests at Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas, I noted that the ripening conditions were among the best I can remember.  In fact, analytical records show that the young wines had the deepest color readings of the last 30 years."   At Fonseca, Head Winemaker David Guimaraens says, "What set 2000 apart was the almost perfect ripening season--not too hot but with plenty of sunlight.  The grapes matured gradually and evenly.  As a result, the musts were well-balanced with an enormous amount of color and a wonderfully intense aroma."  Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca are often among the last port shippers to declare a vintage, traditionally making the announcement on April 23, St. George's Day.  Quinta do Noval Managing Director Christian Seely says, "2000 was a great year for Noval.  The wines showed remarkable purity and concentration of fruit, together with a powerful and elegant tannic structure."

WINE INSTITUTE announced that Dennis Groth, president of Groth Vineyards and Winery, has been elected Chairmen for 2002-2003, beginning July 1, of the San Francisco-based Wine Institute.  Groth vowed to focus on developing standards for sustainable wine growing as well as easing trade barriers across the country and abroad, and to encourage industry-wide participation.  Wine Institute is the public policy advocacy group of 605 California wineries and affiliated businesses representing more than 90 percent of the state's wine shipments.

ST. FRANCIS WINERY announced the 1998 Reserve "Nuns Canyon" Cabernet Sauvignon won a gold medal at the London Wine Fair.  Contact: 800/543-7713 ext. 242

RODNEY STRONG Vineyard, Sonoma County, has reopened.  After six months of remodeling, the winery's hospitality center is complete.  "We hoped to create a showcase that will call attention to the importance of agriculture in Sonoma County as well as pay tribute to the groundbreaking spirit of the winery founder, Rod Strong," says Tom Klein of the Klein family--owners since 1989. 

HENRI BOURGEOIS family members report that 2001 is a promising vintage.  Located in Chavignol,  Loire Valley, France, their Sancerre has been a favorite of mine and each time I visit the family winery I am convinced anew.   Jean-Marie Bourgeois, his brother and son Arnaud all work together in making these crisp and elegant food wines.  In the current Newsletter, a report was given on Clos Henri, their new winery in New Zealand.  The article assures readers that their passion for their Chavignol land is duplicated in New Zealand.  Being experts on growing sauvignon blanc (the grapes used to produce Sancerre and Pouilly Fume), no doubt the new winery reflects their French expertise in a place that also grows excellent sauvignon blanc grapes. 

CORK SUPPLY USA has been involved in solving the problems of cork taint, called TCA.  The Cork Supply News reports that "Two years ago an exciting and innovative method of detecting TCA promised to make new strides in the cork industry.  Solid Phase Micro Extraction (SPME) is a technique that uses a GC/MS (Gas Chromatograph/Mass Spectrometer) to analyze the level of TCA in corks.  It can detect taint levels far below those detected in traditional cork sensory.  The SPME process can quantify levels less than 1 ppt, far below the human threshold.  It allows companies to set new, lower rejection criteria that help manage corks better." Information: 800/961-2000

BERINGER VINEYARDS, in an unsurpassed winning streak, was named "Winery of the Year" four times in six months.   The 125-year old Napa winery "has a long history of making wines of the highest quality."


 

NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)

ZACA MESA 2000 Z-CUVEE $16: "We are proud to release our 9th vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape style wine--Z-Cuvee.  It is  a blend 48% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre, 12% Counoise, 10% Syrah and 8% Viognier, complex aromatics and medium weight, bright and dark fruit, a subtle vanilla/oak undertone, firm but clumsy, the tannins make their presence in the finish, pair with Mediterranean meat dishes, seasoned lamb and pork dishes"

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THOMAS FOGARTY 2001 Gewurztraminer, Monterey County $16: "This less than 0.5% dry Gewurztraminer while low in perceptible sugar has 14.5% alcohol,  produced, no doubt, by the optimal growing season in Salinas Valley.  This Fogarty flagship wine is crisp, attractively aromatic with exotic tropical fruit and deliciousness with balanced acidity.    

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RODNEY STRONG 1999 Reserve Pinot Noir: "Thee decades Russian River Valley experience has revealed many nuances about producing Pinot Noir.   Through planting and replanting, I've cultivated a variety of Pinot Noir clones (genetically identical cuttings used for propagation). Our Reserve Pinot Noir blends specific clones that have proven their Reserve-style character.  I've chosen clones for their complex flavors, their supple, silky and soft cherry nuances, an intriguing gamey, meaty quality, forward bright black cherry and earthy undertones,  and added tannin.  This wine has heady aromas of dark chocolate, strawberry, a light note of dandelion and a trace of smoke. One year in French oak barrels sculpts an array of sweet fruit and roasted nut character in the nose. Full bodied and lingering, the flavors are classic Pinot Noir.   Pinot Noir is one of the most versatile food wines--pair with fish, lightly smoked meats, smoked salmon or trout with pasta or a turkey on the Weber." — Richard B. Sayre, Winemaker

RODNEY STRONG 1999 Reserve Chardonnay: "Chalk Hill is a sub appellation of Russian River.  Long designated ideal for Chardonnay, it sits high above the fog line to ripen fruit perfectly.  Fruit for the 1999 came from specific blocks noted for extremely generous and lush fruit.  It's special qualities begin with gardenia and nutty aromas, creamy texture, crisp flavor of grapefruit and a sweet peach character with hazelnut and almond notes and a full round finish.  Serve with sautéed calamari or salmon." Sayre

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CAFARO Cellars Winemaker Joe Cafaro is renowned for his  delicious Merlot and Cabernet.  Since he planted the Cafaro Family Vineyards in 1996 (I witnessed the clearing of enormous boulders from the land), he also planted Syrah.  The CAFARO 2000 Syrah Napa Valley ($32) is the first from this vineyard--in the eastern hills just south of Stag's Leap appellation.  "The low yield builds dynamite intensity and we feel our new vineyard is producing exceptional wines and are excited about what they will add to our blends," Joe says.  "We're proud to have this fine new Syrah at CAFARO CELLARS.   The CAFARO 2000 Syrah is deep, rich, dark and very complex.  At the same time it is elegant with balanced complexity to go with many dishes.  The oak and grape tannins are in perfect balance with the youthful Syrah aromas.  It finishes long and multi-layered."

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CAMPANILE 2001 Pinot Grigio $10: "Excellent with your favorite polenta dish, pasta with vegetables or in cream, shellfish, poultry--it's a refreshing summer wine with enhanced fruitiness and a good choice for an aperitif."                        

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HILL OF GOLD, Australia, a Rosemount property: Mudgee is a uniquely positioned viticultural district on the Western Slopes of the Great Dividing Range, and has much to offer the world of wine. The Hill of Gold vineyard and property have a 30-year history with Mudgee.  Rosemount and the Oatley family have re-established this local wine name, adding several hundred acres of new plantings to the original site. The Mudgee soils and climate  produce distinctive varietal wines reflecting the unique terroir of their origin.

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IRON HORSE has released the 2000 Chardonnay.  Joy Sterling tells me she thinks it is the best one yet.  "This vintage is 50% malolactic, but just the right distance from big and buttery.  It remains crisp, clean, lively elegant and restrained.  We used a combination of French and American oak--beautifully integrated in the wine--a refined expression of our Sonoma County-Green Valley fruit.  It's creamy with a touch of cinnamon and nutmeg and hint of one of my favorite flavors--crème brulee.  It is sure to rekindle your interest in California Chardonnay."  Winemaker Forrest Tancer says "The aromas are of ripe pears and apples, hazelnuts and smoke of toasted barrels.  It's rich, medium bodied with bright pineapple and lime flavors.  It's a very successful Chardonnay."   IRON HORSE 2000 Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma Count-Green Valley $26.

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VALLEY OF THE MOON 1999 Syrah, Sonoma County $15 "has spicy qualities with characteristics of black cherries, black currants and pomegranates accented by vanilla and cedar.  Reputedly  one of the most robust wines, Syrah offers the fruit forwardness of Zinfandel with a Cabernet's depth of character, resulting a multi-layered elegant wine with potential for cellar development."

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GLORIA FERRER's latest offering of a lovely sparkling wine is the 1992 Carneros Cuvee Late Disgorged Brut.  Winemaker Bob Iantosca says," According to the great Yankee baseball manager Casey Stengel, 'the trick is growing up without growing old.'  It's this quality that separates GLORIA FERRER's tete de cuvee--the 1992 Carneros Cuvee L.D. Brut----from the younger California methode champenoise sparkling wines released this year.  It shows both lively fruit and the finesse that comes only with bottle maturity."  Carefully selected press lots of free-run juice were culled through for the vibrant acidity, delicate flavors and structure needed to create a wine that aged gracefully.  "Hand harvested with seven years of aging on the yeast, this wine received the kid-glove treatment in our vineyard and cellar--and it shows," Bob says.  GLORIA FERRER 1992 Carneros Cuvee Late Disgorged Brut $32.

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TRAVAGLINI GATTINARA  has released the 1998 and Giancarlo Travaglini believes the wines from the Gattinara region are exceptional. The industry agrees, saying that it follows two great vintages, and what's more, the 1999, 2000 and 2001 also expected to be as good or better.  "It takes confidence--not to mention extra vigilance and many years of experience--to make good wine from 100% nebbiolo grapes," he says.  "  Well known for its harsh tannins, this grape is usually blended to add softness, but we've taken special steps and diligence in our winemaking to manage the tannins.  This wine has a nose with the perfume of violets and roses with red berries and hint of pears, vanilla, cream and leather.  It's dry and full bodied with a persistent finish.  The wine pairs well  with foods of the region--mushroom risotto and any hearty meat dish--particularly lamb."   The 1998 TRAVAGLINI GATTINARA is $30. 

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WYNNS COONAWARRA Estate has origins from more than a century.  Its present-day status dates from the 1950s and when the previously named Chateau Comaum (1890s) was bought by S. Wynn & Co.--the Melbourne-based wine makers and merchants.  As a wine-producing area, Coonawarra was then at its lowest ebb.   Samuel Wynn, the family patriarch and company founder, and his son David recognized the intrinsic quality of 'Coonawarra claret', even though the market for still red table wine was tiny: in the early 1950s Australians drank fortified wines -- especially port and sherry -- almost exclusively.  The Wynns felt a sense of responsibility to the industry they loved and took on the task of developing the property.  After languishing for the previous 50 years, the establishing of Wynns Coonawarra Estate signaled the area's renaissance.
David Wynn took control of the business as his father retired. He was Australia's first wine producer to use 'Estate' on the label to indicate that what was in the bottle came from the place named.  David Wynn had a stroke of good fortune when Australians developed a taste for dry red wine in the early 1960s.  Wynn  aggressively marketed his Coonawarra Estate wines on the basis of variety and place of origin, creating an awareness of the Coonawarra district for Australians.  Wynn's success attracted other Australian wine producers who then purchased land in Coonawarra.  Wynn also increased his holdings.  Today Wynns Coonawarra Estate is the district's pre-eminent producer and largest single landholder with 2,100 acres-- including many of the best and longest-established vineyard sites.  Five wines -- two whites and three reds -- are produced each year.  The two flagship reds, Michael Shiraz and John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, are genuine best-of-vintage wines--produced only in vintages with sufficient quality.   David Wynn named Michael Shiraz after his first son.  John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon recalls Coonawarra's beginnings.  John Riddoch, 'the Squire of Penola,' was running 160,000 sheep on 700 square kilometres in Coonawarra. Riddoch noticed that another Scotsman cultivated vegetables and fruit trees on just three acres with phenomenal results.  From 1890 Riddoch subdivided 1900 acres of his land, naming it the Coonawarra Fruit Colony and offering blocks on easy terms.  The 26 original 'colonists' planted  95,000 vines and 10,000 fruit trees initially and by 1897, vines were being cultivated by the 'blockers' and Riddoch as well.  Riddoch also built (1891-1895) a large winery and cellar.   Riddoch's vineyards are the core of today's Wynns Coonawarra Estate.   John Riddoch lit a torch for Coonawarra Australian wine in 1891, a flame that flickered weakly through the first half of the new century until the 1950s when David Wynn reignited it.   John Riddoch, first produced in 1982, is Wynns Coonawarra Estate's best Cabernet Sauvignon.   Many consider John Riddoch the definitive Coonawarra Cabernet, richer and more concentrated than any other wine from the district.         Three vintages of John Riddoch have won the best Cabernet award at London's International Wine & Spirit Competition, a result that speaks for itself.   It's appropriate that one of Australia's top Cabernet Sauvignon should be named for the man who pioneered the district where it is grown.

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LAETITIA  2000  Chardonnay $15: "Ripe melon and pineapple are forefront in this wine with hints of tropical fruit coming through on the nose. The flavors are soft and rich with hints of green apple and citrus on the palate. (PLEASE SEE ARTICLE ABOVE)

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FETZER on SYRAH: FETZER Vineyards 1999 Syrah, Valley Oaks, California, $9: "1999 brought very good to excellent conditions for growing Syrah.  Harvest was later than normal, which allowed extra time for the grapes to develop complexity on the vine.   It's a rich, dark wine with ripe plum and blackberry jam aromas mingled with orange blossom, subtle anise, vanilla and cola berry.  The palate is richly textured, berry fruitiness, smoky oak, soft vanilla and rounded tannins, medium heavy weight and tannins and a long finish."     

What's in a Name? Syrah, Shiraz and Petite Sirah
    The French word "provenance" means "origin" or "source," and carries an implicit statement of value.  In art, for example, provenance is an essential element in determining the identity of a work and can mean the difference between a painting attributed to a master and valued at millions and a worthless flea market fake.  In the grand history of the grape, the Syrah versus Shiraz chapter is steeped in the lore of provenance.  The grapes themselves are indistinguishable, but, like twins raised by different parents in different parts of the world, the wines called Syrah and Shiraz are very distinct.  To complicate matters, the grape variety Petite Sirah is often thrown in the mix, making it all the more confusing.
    The wine world is an intoxicating mix of history, science, technique and magic. Factors that give places like the Rhone Valley in France, northern California's Napa Valley and Australia's Clare Valley their inimitable "place."  Sun exposure, wind, rainfall, humidity also contribute to the character of the grapes that are grown there.
    Recent research by renowned scholars Dr. Carole Meredith of the University of California, Davis and Jean-Michel Boursiquot of the wine research facility at Montpellier, France, has determined that Syrah is indigenous to the Rhone region of France.  These findings debunk long-held beliefs that Syrah originated in the Persian Empire (now Iran) and was brought to France by crusaders.  A romantic theory, perhaps, but DNA research has unveiled a simpler tale.
    Syrah is the descendent of two little-known French grape varieties: Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. Dureza hails from the northern Ardeche region to the west of the Rhone, while Mondeuse Blanche is native to the Savoie region.  Syrah grapes are believed to have been planted in France in 500 B.C.   Not until 1936  were Syrah cuttings brought to California by oenologist Dr. Harold P. Olmo of the University of California, Davis.
    Shiraz, on the other hand, genetically the same as Syrah, is the name used for the grape in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.  Shiraz refers to the ancient Persian city that was considered the grape's original provenance. James Busby introduced the Syrah/Shiraz grape to Australia in 1832.
    While the same grape, the wines owe their unique flavors and charm to their provenance (terroir) and local winemakers' techniques.  France's Rhone Valley and California's Napa Valley share similar climates and their Syrahs are close cousins.  The way in which climate informs a wine, particularly those from the Syrah grape, has been reinforced by research done by Australian Michael McCarthy.  He found that water ceases to flow to the Syrah grape at a certain point in the ripening process, a trait unique to the Syrah grape.  This phenomenon plays a role in the sugar levels of the grapes.  If it's hot, the grapes shrivel and the sugar content increases very rapidly.  In more temperate climes, this occurs more slowly.
    The winemaking process is equal parent to climate in the upbringing of a wine.  In Australia, for example, it is common practice to press the Shiraz juice early, before fermentation is complete.  The wine goes "dry," creating a soft, smoky edge.  French and American Syrah winemakers generally favor longer skin contact with the juice, resulting in a more tannic wine.  Whereas Shiraz tends to be a big, bold red, Syrah is known for being a peppery, slightly fruity wine.  These are subjective descriptions; however, stylistically most wines have evolved along one of these two paths.
    Petite Sirah, often erroneously thought to be a relative of  Syrah, is actually a grape of French origin called the durif. Reportedly, it was  brought to California in 1884 by a grower who dubbed it, "Petite Sirah."  Petite Sirah suffered from an identity crisis.  Confusion with the Syrah grape and the fact that it was often used for blending to boost tannins and color made it appear to be unable to stand on its own.  Now several California producers have showcased Petite Sirah and it finally is having its deserved day in the sun.
    In the end, the confusion about Syrah and Shiraz hints at the subtlety of wine itself ,  both its production and its appreciation.  Americans understand the difference between various grapes--ordering Merlot and Chardonnay, but our understanding of the myriad of factors that inform the evolution of the grape to a bottled wine remains basic at best.
SYRAH, FUN FACTS FROM FETZER VINEYARDS
    Trends come and  go.  In 1995, Market Watch magazine named Merlot as the fastest growing grape variety in the wine business. Merlot is now the most popular red grape among American consumers, overtaking Cabernet Sauvignon in popularity.  Well, move over Merlot: Syrah is on the rise! In the last five years, Syrah's acreage plantings have doubled in California vineyards each year, and its suitability to the climate of California makes this a trend that will continue.
Why Syrah?
The people at Fetzer Vineyards, producers of Fetzer Valley Oaks® Syrah, have put together some fun facts and helpful research to guide you along the sometimes challenging path of learning about wine and wine trends:
    1. Syrah is tasty: Smooth and round fruit flavors that range from blackberry to strawberry with hints of white pepper. Generally, Syrahs have lower tannins (a compound in red grape skins can make wine seem bitter), so this wine is easy to drink. Merlot drinkers and other red wine drinkers are likely to enjoy Syrah.
    2. Syrah is easy to pronounce: Just say "sear-AH." It's that simple!
    3. Syrah and Shiraz (pronounced "shear-AHZ") are the same grape.
    4. Did you know that Syrah has been used in winemaking longer than any of the noble grape varieties--since Roman times in Rhone Valley.  Other than Syrah, noble grape varieties include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc.
    5. In California, plantings of Syrah have doubled from 1999-2000. It now ranks among the six top selling grape varieties in the U.S. according to Motto, Kryla, Fisher in Santa Rosa, California. Not bad for a grape that even two years ago, was not on the radar screen as being a serious contender. The rankings currently are: #1 Cabernet Sauvignon; #2 Chardonnay; #3 Merlot; #4 Red Zinfandel; #5 Pinot Noir; #6 Syrah
    6. Syrah is affordable: Most of us buy wines in the $7-12 dollar range.  There are some nice choices in this price point, so you can enjoy a delicious wine and stick to your budget. Fetzer Valley Oaks® Syrah is under $10.
    7. Syrah is an easy match: The diverse fruity flavors and moderate alcohol level of Syrah make it a perfect partner for a wide array of foods, from grilled foods to a variety of ethnic cuisines. Try a Syrah the next time you are choosing a wine for dinner or a party and tell everyone it's the next Merlot!
    8. Syrah's growth in popularity took time: As over 75% of the wines consumed in the U.S. are Californian wines and much of the planting of grape varieties in vineyards historically followed consumer trends versus what was better suited for the growing areas. For a long time "trendy" grapes were planted where they didn't necessarily thrive best. It's been determined over the decades and with a lot of experimentation that Syrah is well suited to the California climate, and its adaptability to warm and cool climates make it a versatile grape to grow. In addition, aggressive pricing and top quality Shiraz wines from Australia have made a splash in the American market for several years now, fueling consumer interest in the varietal.     

Seared Double Cut Rack of Lamb Chops, Heirloom Tomato Salad and Chickpea Garlic cake & Fetzer Syrah
By Chef Todd Davies, MC², San Francisco
Chickpea cake ingredients:
1 cup dried chickpeas
3 cups cold water
3 cloves chopped garlic
½ cup chopped onion
¼ cup chopped cilantro (stems and all)
1 1/2 teaspoons toasted ground cumin
1 teaspoon toasted ground coriander
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons A.P. flour
flour for dredging the cakes
oil for pan frying

1. Place chickpeas and water in a medium sized sauce pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately drain the chickpeas, discarding the water and let cool.
2. Place chickpeas in a robot-coupe and coarsely puree. Add the garlic,  onion, cilantro, toasted ground cumin, toasted ground coriander, salt, baking soda and cayenne. Process until mixture is thoroughly incorporated  and slowly pulse in the flour.  
3. With floured hands, form the mixture into 4 evenly sized cakes. Dredge
in the flour and refrigerate. This step can be done up to 24 hours in advance.
 Tomato salad ingredients:
1 pint assorted heirloom cherry tomatoes (or 1 cup tomato concasse)
1 cup Fetzer syrah
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
1/3 cup minced red onion
4 oz extra virgin olive oil
½ cup diced European cucumber (seeded)
2 cloves minced garlic

1. Place the Syrah in a small heavy bottomed sauce pan and reduce by about
½. Let cool.
2. Rinse the tomatoes and dry gently. Slice in half.
3. Add remaining ingredients into a medium sized mixing bowl and stir gently with a spoon.
Lamb Ingredients:
4 Frenched double cut rack of lamb chops (around 4-5 oz each.)
¼ cup zahtar* (spice blend of sesame seeds and powered sumac and dried thyme, found in Middle Eastern markets).
¼ cup canola oil
kosher salt and cracked black pepper
oil for searing
Method:
1. Marinate the lamb in the zahtar and canola oil for 1-2 hours.
2. Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.
3. Salt and pepper chops. Wrap aluminum foil around both bones on each chop to prevent the bones from burning.
4. Pre-heat a heavy bottomed sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add oil and sear lamb on all 4 sides.
5. Place lamb in oven to finish cooking. (5-10 minutes) Lamb should be cooked medium-rare.
6. Check lamb temperature and pull it out at 115 degrees. Let it rest away from the heat source.
7. While the lamb is in the oven, place
¾ inch of oil in heavy sauté pan. Fry the chickpea cakes on both sides and keep hot.
To serve: Spoon the tomato salad into the middle of each of four plates. Spread out to form a ring in the center for the chickpea cake. Cut each chop into 2 chops, resting one on the chickpea cake and the other one standing up against the first one, garnish with fresh cilantro and serve with Fetzer Syrah.

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CHATEAU MONTELENA Winemaker Bo Barret tells me 1999 was the second consecutive late vintage with the entire growing season dominated by cool weather.  Chardonnay ripened a month later than average and a forecasted low yield came in even lower than anticipated.  "Stylistically, this vintage fits right into our signature Chardonnay--smooth, soft, and not overdone.  Although it seems at times we're paddling upstream by not giving in to the expectation of oaky and buttery, Montelena Chardonnay is what it is: finely balanced fruit dominating the approach, big fruit in the middle and a clean refreshing finish," Bo says.  The entire growing season of the 2000 vintage was dominated by cool weather and spikes of intensely hot periods.  Mid-season, June 12-14, brought among the highest recorded temperatures in Napa Valley history."    SPRING 2002 RELEASE

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 CHATEAU POTELLE owners Marketta and Jean-Noël Fourmeaux came to California in 1980 as "Official Wine Tasters" for the French government. "We came to spy," jokes Marketta. In reality, they were here on official business--to taste California wines and learn about all aspects of California winemaking philosophy and vineyard management.     After six months and tasting 2000 wines, they sent a telegram back home saying "looks good, we stay".  After an exhaustive search, they purchased 202 acres on Mount Veeder. CHATEAU POTELLE is in a small mountain valley of striking natural beauty.  As Winemaker Marketta says "To us this is more than a winery and vineyard, it is our home. We journeyed 7 years and half way around the world to find it.   By being hands-on from growing to bottling, I can rely on consistency, style and elegance."  Chateau Potelle has earned a place as a top-ranked producer of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

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CHATEAU SOUVERAIN 2001 Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc $12: "A traditional Bordeaux-style wine, its aromatics are citrus, ripe melon and a touch of mineral with herb notes.  A crisp acidity leads to zesty grapefruit with floral, fig and melon flavors on the palate--well-balanced finish with soft, thick texture and slight oak spice.".

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LIVINGSTON MOFFETT 2000 Carneros Chardonnay, Genny's Vineyard, Napa $40: "Our own vineyard manager owns this vineyard and named it for his mother, Genny.  After examining the site, soils, exposure and vines, we knew we and found our course of Chardonnay grapes in the Carneros District of Napa Valley.  This region is generally recognized as the finest Chardonnay growing area in Napa and has sourced many extraordinary wines.  The vineyard has a variety of Robert  Young and Dijon clones from whcih we select our blend.  The low yield of the vines assures complete ripeness while the preserving acidity that is too often lost during the production of highly ripe grapes with excessive tonnage.  The flavors and rich varietal character of these grapes has more than rewarded our expectations and winemaking efforts."

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CLASSIC WINES OF CALIFORNIA has released three wines, reporting that "Summertime is the time to get away from everyday routines,  whether poolside, in the mountains, or an urban veranda or at the shore, consumers want to sip and savor cool and refreshing wines.  They'r just released this trio of summer sippers at affordable prices: FOREST GLEN 2001 Pinot Grigio $10, GRAND CRU 2000 Gewurztraminer $$7.50 and MONTPELLIER 2000 Viognier $7.

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LUNA VINEYARDS 2000 Sangiovese Napa Valley $18:  "Grown in seven vineyards sprinkled throughout the Napa Valley and its surrounding hillsides, the 2000 growing season, with the exception of a heat wave in June, was relatively cool, resulting in later flavor maturity and a long hang time on the vine. This provided the fruit with uniform and optimal ripeness. The grapes were harvested between September 15 and October 16.   The Sangiovese was fermented with its naturally occurring yeast for ten days and macerated, including fermentation time, for twenty-one days. Eleven months in French oak barrels (20% new) completed the aging.   It's rich, full aromas of rose petals, currants, mulberries, and blackberries with flavors of black fruits, plums, and black pepper, a classic Sangiovese structure with bold, well integrated fruit, tannin, and acidity, a seamless long finish, and delicious now with continued good aging for the next five to seven years."

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CALLAWAY COASTAL is offering a trio of summer wines.   In the year 2000, Callaway expanded its grape sourcing to include all of California’s prime Coastal winegrowing regions and evolved the entire brand to Callaway Coastal. In these new coastal vineyards cooling ocean winds and fog moderate temperatures during the growing season, lengthening the time on the vine. Callaway Coastal wines are crafted to go with today’s inventive, flavorful food styles.
CALLAWAY COASTAL 2001 Chenin Blanc $7: "Slow fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks makes a graceful balance between the delicate fruit flavors and crisp acidity--hallmarks of a great Chenin Blanc.   Aromas of pineapple, subtle honeysuckle, jasmine and guava are the first on the nose with forward tropical fruit and bright acidity with a refreshing impression on the slightly sweet finish. Try well-chilled with spicy summer foods, fresh fish and seafood dishes and well-spiced Asian and Indian dishes."   CALLAWAY COASTAL 2001Chardonnay 2000 $9: " About 65% of the wine is barrel fermented in French oak, and about 20% of the wine is softened with malolactic fermentation.  The aromas are reminiscent of baked apples, smooth mouthfeel with apple flavors, pineapple and lemon peel  highlighted by toasty oak and vanilla and a silky finish, pair stuffed pork chops, lemon herb chicken, pasta Alfredo or sea scallops prepared." CALLAWAY COASTAL 2001Sauvignon Blanc 2001 $8: " grapes for this wine came from three well-known regions--Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc, known for its nectarine/stone fruit qualities;  Temecula Valley typically displays melon/citrus flavors, and the
Monterey fruit brings some grassy/herbal components to the wine, pair with fresh salads, shrimp cocktail or oysters on the half shell."

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WOLF BLASS--ABOUT WOLF BLASS WINES
From its humble beginnings in an old army shed in the legendary Barossa Valley in 1966 to its current state-of –the-art winemaking facility, Wolf Blass Wines has become one of the most recognized names in the Australian wine industry. The winery was first catapulted onto the Aussie wine scene, when Founding winemaker, Wolf Blass, captured a Jimmy Watson Trophy – Australia’s most prestigious wine trophy for a 1-year-old red – with his very first vintage of Wolf Blass Black Label. The pioneering Blass went on to win two more consecutive Jimmy Watsons (an unprecedented and still unchallenged accomplishment) as well as thousands of Australian and international gold medals and trophies for his wines. Over the years, Blass also played a leading role in the development of the modern Australian wine industry, introducing new winemaking techniques and bringing Australian wines to the attention of the world-at-large.  Today, the winery continues the Wolf Blass legacy for innovation and winemaking excellence. Under the stewardship of Chief Winemaker, Chris Hatcher, a team of dedicated winemakers craft a wide array of stylish, elegant wines – from delicate Riesling to spicy Shiraz -- with delicious fruit intensity, complexity and balance. Their commitment shows in wines that have garnered some of the world’s most prestigious winemaking awards – including a 2001 Wine Spectator Top 100 for the Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling 2000 and an unparalleled 4th Jimmy Watson Trophy for the current (1998) vintage of Wolf Blass Black Label. 

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CLOS DU BOIS 2001 Chardonnay, Sonoma County $14: "medium bodied with ripe pear, crisp green apple, vanilla and toasty caramel flavors, approximately 70% barrel fermented to integrate fruit and oak flavors with partial malolactic fermentation for rich texture and buttery components and  barrel aged for 6-8 months before bottling. Perfect for sipping alone or with fish, chicken or lighter pasta dishes."

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ROBERT CRAIG 2000 Central Coast Syrah $28: "Our first Central Coast Syrah is a unique fusion of Paso Robles--wild berry and creamy tropical fruits-- and Los Olivos in Santa Barbara County--imparting distinc Rhone character of red fruit and spice.  Complex aromas of red fruit, rhubarb and pepper, followed by creamy butterscotch, hazelnut and clove notes,  Round mouth-filling flavors of luscious red berries, blueberry and wild berry with hints of mango and papaya. Complex and earthy elements, silky, balanced and generous."

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DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 2001 Dry Chenin Blanc $8.75: "Clean stone fruit aromas, bright fruit flavors on the palate with essence of apricot and peach, a crisp, dry finish exceptionally well balanced, excellent as aperitif or with lighter cuisines and Asian inspired dishes."

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SOUTHCORP Wines has released a number of delicious wines.  LINDEMANS, founded in the 1840s, is famous for its regional premium varietal wines including the world-famous Bin Range, and ROSEMOUNT Estate, in a little over thirty short years, has established itself as one of Australia’s leading wineries, producing a selection of fine wines that reflect the riches of Australian climate and a dedication to winemaking quality, innovation and style.  They are two noteworthy properties under the Southcorp umbrella. 

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FOOD SPECIALS

Beautiful SASKATCHEWAN grows healthful Canola Oil: .  This prairie land is prime Canadian farming country.  Each field, including the seemingly boundless golden fields of canola flowers, are astonishingly well manicured--a fact that shows the people's great respect for the land.  I was invited to attend "Canola Camp" to learn about the facts and feats of this healthful cooking oil.  It comes from flowers and contains the lowest amount of saturated fat of any oil (flaxseed, safflower, sunflower, corn, olive, soybean, peanut, etc., and in that order).   Canola is an oilseed grown primarily in Western Canada.  Canola plants grow an average of three to six feet tall and produce yellow flowers with seed pods.  The pods contain about twenty tiny round black or brownish-yellow seeds, each approximately 40 percent oil. The seeds are crushed to obtain Canola Oil for consumer consumption. The remainder is processed into canola meal which is used as a high protein livestock feed. The name of canola is a combination of two words, Canadian and oil.  Home economist Dorothy Long directed the trip wrote the information included below.  She was a perfect hostess.
COOKING WITH CANOLA OIL
Canola Oil is a top-notch salad oil--light in color and texture.  Its mild flavor complements the taste of fresh herbs and spices in a homemade vinaigrette--easily refrigerated since Canola Oil remains free-running in the refrigerator.
    Canola Oil is also excellent for cooking and baking.  Its high smoke-point makes it ideal for cheese dishes, stir frying and deep fat frying. It doesn't transfer flavors from one food to another when more than one food is fried. Research indicates that Canola Oil drains more thoroughly than melted shortening, leaving foods five to 10 percent lower in calories than the same foods fried in melted shortening.
    Baking with Canola Oil can help reduce your saturated fatty acid-intake. Substituting it for butter, lard or brick margarine replaces fats high in saturated fatty acids with an oil that has the lowest level of saturated fatty acids. And that's not all!  Substituting oil for solid fats reduces the quantity of oil by 20 percent,  which reduces total fat-intake! Substituting Canola Oil does modify the texture, usually making the baked product softer and more moist. Please see www.canolainfo.com for a chart to convert solid-fat recipes.
CLEARLY CANOLA! THE CHOICE FOR HEALTH!
A lot of nutritional research has focused upon the role of fats and oils in the human diet. Recent
developments have shown canola oil to be the edible oil of choice in a "heart-healthy" diet. The unique fatty
acid profile of canola oil appears to be beneficial in reducing several of the risk factors associated with
coronary heart disease.
    Dietary Fat and Coronary Heart Disease A major reason for the current interest in the health effects of
dietary fat relates to evidence linking high intakes to coronary heart disease. In Canada and the United
States, coronary heart disease is a major health concern as it accounts for approximately 50% of all
deaths, many of which are premature. The majority of individuals who are afflicted with heart disease are
within the age bracket of 40 to 70 years. Coronary heart disease is a result of atherosclerosis, a progressive disease that may begin early in life and most often produces symptoms in middle age.  Atherosclerosis often is undetected until a heart attack, which may be fatal.
    Nutritionists, physicians and public health experts in North America have supported dietary modification
as the principle intervention for lowering blood cholesterol levels. Clinical and epidemiological studies have shown that the dietary factor most closely correlated with high levels of blood cholesterol and coronary heart disease risk are certain saturated fatty acids.
   Greenland Eskimos have very low levels of coronary heart disease despite consuming large amounts of dietary fat. Subsequent research identified omega 3 fatty acids as the unique component in the diets of this population. In fact, it is now recognized that very few dietary supplements are as effective as omega 3 fatty acids in reducing coronary heart disease risk factors, in particular high levels of certain blood lipids as well as enhanced blood clotting and platelet adhesion (thrombosis).
    Over the past century, omega 3 fatty acid levels in the Western diet have decreased due to an increased
consumption of animal products and reductions in the intake of seafood.
    Canola oil possesses a very unique balance of fatty acids. The saturated fatty acids levels of canola oil
are the lowest of any commonly consumed vegetable oil available on the market. Canola oil is high in
monounsaturated fatty acids, second only to olive oil.  Canola oil also contains an appreciable amount of
the essential fatty acids, linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid. Nutritional research is confirming that the fatty
profile of canola oil appears to be beneficial in preventing and treating coronary heart disease risk
factors including high blood cholesterol and lipid levels as well as thrombosis.
SOUTH PACIFIC ZUCCHINI LOAF
3 cups all purpose flour
2 tsp. baking soda
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
1 tsp. salt
3 eggs
1 cup Canola oil
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 tsp. vanilla
2 cups shredded zucchini
14 oz. can crushed pineapple, drained
1 cup chopped pecans
        Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a large bowl, blend together flour, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. In another bowl beat eggs, Canola oil, sugar and vanilla. Stir into the flour mixture. Add zucchini, crushed pineapple and pecans. Stir well. Divide evenly between two 8 x 4 x 3 inch greased loaf pans. Bake 50 to 60 minutes until wooden pick inserted in centre comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes on racks before turning out of pans. Yield: 2 loaves (16 slices per loaf). Serving: 1 slice.
      Nutritional Analysis per serving: Energy 187 Kcal, Protein 2 g, Fat 11 g, Carbohydrate 21 g, Total Fibre .85 g, Sodium 141 mg

Nielsen-Massey Vanillas: VANILLA has long been a favorite flavor of mine.   I've just discovered a brand new to me and it gives me pleasure to praise it most enthusiastically.  NIELSEN-MASSEY Vanillas deserve your attention.  According to Craig Nielsen, "Nielsen-Massey Vanillas are the finest pure vanilla in the world!  Our family has been dedicated to making pure vanilla products since 1907 from the finest beans available.  An exclusive cold extraction process begins slowly and gently to draw the distinctive flavor from the vanilla beans, resulting in the finest pure vanilla."  Nielsen Massey Vanillas are available around the globe.  ISO certified production facilities, in both Waukegan, Illinois and in Leeuwarden, Netherlands, rely on quality standards augmented by ISO certification (from Lloyd's Register Quality Assurance Limited).  Also, annually, the American Institute of Baking has awarded the company  'Superior' ratings each year since 1990. 
Nielsen-Massey family members produce "the world's finest Pure Vanillas batch after batch - a promise that (our family) has kept for nearly a century."  Pure Vanilla Extracts Rich and mellow Madagascar Bourbon; classic, flavorful Mexican; musky, aromatic Tahitian; and pungent Indonesian (industrial only).
PRODUCTS
100% Certified Organic Pure Vanilla--Made from all certified organic ingredients.
Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Powder--All natural, contains no sugar or alcohol.
Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste--A pure vanilla with natural vanilla bean seeds in a
unique, convenient, paste form for added gourmet appearance to recipes.
Whole Vanilla Beans--Prime gourmet quality vanilla beans from the finest curers in the world.
Customized Vanilla Blends--Our experts work with customers to create a vanilla blend that best suits their applications.
By the way--Thomas Jefferson is credited with introducing vanilla to the United States in the late 1700s. While serving as Ambassador to King Louis XVI of France, he became familiar with vanilla beans, and brought 200 vanilla beans back with him when he returned to the United States. 
DID YOU KNOW? 

½ cup (1 stick) butter
2 oz. unsweetened chocolate
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ teaspoon pure vanilla
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
15 coarsely chopped mint candy wafers (1/2 cup)
    Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat butter and chocolate in a medium-sized saucepan over low heat, until melted. Remove rom heat. Stir in sugar, eggs and vanilla. Combine flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in chocolate mixture until smooth. Spread in buttered 8-inch square baking pan. Bake 25-30 minutes, or until brownies begin to pull away from the sides of the pan. Do not overbake. Cut into bars before serving. (Optional), garnish with whole mint wafers.  For more recipes: www.nielsenmassey.com
 


 

© 2000 Sarah Jane English
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