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The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 50th Edition
June 14, 2002
HOT NEWS: The 4th edition of THE WINES OF TEXAS has just been published. Please see "Books" on the index of Home page to order or contact Sarah Jane (sarajane@onr.com or telephone 512/474-1889). Also, current issue of Country Lifestyle (www.countrylifestyle.net) features two articles by Sarah Jane, her monthly wine feature on Beringer Vineyard's 125th-year celebration and her article on Governor Rick Perry.
FREE wine tasting! Sarah Jane English featured by the Texas Department of Agriculture and Grapevine Market, "Enjoy Texas Wines," July 30 from 6:00 P.M. to 8:00 P.M., at Grapevine Market, 7936 Great Northern Blvd, Austin, Texas 78757, Tel: 512/323-5900 for information.
WINERY OF THE MONTH: Bo Barret Makes Chateau Montelena 30th Vintage Chardonnay. I had a delightful luncheon with my friend Bo Barret when he was in Austin recently. Bo is as enthusiastic, down-to-earth and likeable as ever. So are his wines. A little history--In 1976 a whos-who of the French wine and food community gathered for a tasting in Paris. Four each of white Burgundies and red Bordeaux wines were tasted against six California Chardonnays and six California Cabernet Sauvignons. When the scores were tallied, the French judges were convinced the top-ranked white wine was one of their own. In fact, it was Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay that was rated above all the others. TIME magazine heralded this event with an article titled "Judgment of Paris" on the cover. It was world recognition for California wines and put the American wine industry on the map.
"Our land is the most precious thing we have, so we're careful with our soils," Bo told me. "2001 was the 30th vintage of our Chardonnay and we'll release it next year, so that's big news. There'll be a little emblem on the label. We've used the same vineyards for our whites year after year, including Frank Takahachi's. He's 84--and healthy as a bull, but looking at the numbers (seven years), that's too old for him to replant the vineyard so he's leased us the property. His kids want to keep it, so we don't have to buy it and it works for everyone--we've been partners for 20 years. We'll take the crop level exactly where we want it for chardonnay. Also, we picked at night, so the grapes were nice and cold, and did whole cluster pressing. We've done a ton of work on the chardonnay for the 2001. Leasing has not changed the style of the wine--it's still non-malolactic, very fresh, fruity--and it's really a good food wine. There was the trend where so much wood, batonage, and all the hands of man were used to add flavor. But we're still pretty much purists, naturalists when it comes to chardonnay--low yielding, clean, crisp and apple-like when it's young. There's still bottle age for another year, because it is still pretty tightly wound, more French styling in the depth of the palate grip of acidity-- but the whole cluster pressing allows us to turn the volume up on the chardonnay and have a bigger fruit palate without coarseness or bitterness. It's very exciting. I believe the trend in Chardonnay is back to the vineyard, however, only the best vineyards can stand the purity that sticks to naturalism and doesn't involve a lot of winemaking. As for the use of terroir, especially with whites, it's tough because there's not enough medium or density in the matrix of flavors to really show terroir as well--with the exception of the greatest vineyards. Even in a cheap red vineyard that's standard or better, a red vineyard you can show terroir. It might be muddy, kind of murky terroir but it'll be there whether it's a cabernet or whatever red has the more profound complexity. There's just so much more going on in a red than a white that you can show the terroir. White is up front fruit. I met our vineyard manager at Fresno State so we grew up as college chums. He trained as a enologist--actually he grew up farming in the Central valley, but his training in school was as a winemaker so he knows winemaking--and making wine in the vineyard, that's his job. He knows exactly what we want. The deal is that I'll teach him everything I know if he gives me X amount of years. But he has to stay long enough to see bad years and good years. Most of the new work we're doing is on the Chardonnay because we're really trying to hewn it. We've had 30 years of successful track record with Chardonnay but we're still tweaking it because we believe it can better. Never give up, never surrender--but we have targets too. www.montelena.com
PLACE TO VISIT: Meadowood, Napa Valley: Meadowood is a rare and privileged experience. I've been blessed to be a guest at this superlative property eight or so times over the last 16 years and each time Meadowood is as as lovely and wonderful as I remember it to be. Four excellent and successive chefs (Henri Debois, Roy Breiman, Pilar Sanchez, and Steven Tevere) have cooked for me at lovely "The Restaurant at Meadowood" and I've never been disappointed. Pilar is on the Orient Express and Steven is the current chef. Henri returned to France to direct his family's restaurant; Roy opened his own place in Oregon. I get excited every time I'm invited back.
Meadowood has 250 acres of forested land with the guest units scattered inconspicuously among the trees and various facilities. If a daily swim is your preference, stay near the swimming pool. Tennis, anyone? Locate next to the courts. There's a nine-hole golf course, a croquet court, hiking, bicycling and a fabulous health spa. The Health Spa experience is one of its most memorable features. Guests may participate in Tai Chi, eco-fitness, Pilates, yoga, strength training classes or wellness counseling programs, exercise, or be immersed in the luxury of the restorative body and beauty treatments. I'm blessed to have my writing take me around the world to write about food, wine, spas, resorts and so forth. Last year I was scrubbed with coconut in Bali, splashed with yogurt on Mauritius and soothed with various balms in various other places. The most incredible spa experience, the most outstanding and unforgettable massage was at Meadowood. Among the many beauty and body treatments available, I selected one of the three Ayurvedic treatments; that is, the Abhyanga (a-be-on-ga). Swan Lake's corps de ballet pales by comparison to the artistry of the balletic duet of the ladies who produce the Abhyanga! The brochure decribes it: "Beginnning with warm herb-infused oil, two specially trained massage therapists work in unison with swift, synchronized movements, matching pressure and touch. This stimulates the circulatory and lymphatic systems, detoxifying and renewing the body." The description does not do justice to this unique adagio. Each lady simultaneously and slowly controls a steady, warm stream of oil flowing onto the feet up the leg calves to a properly halted place on the thighs. Their hands touch at exactly the same place on each leg with exactly the same pressure and motion, and they continue in the same fashion with the flawless duet throughout the Abhyanga, which I dubbed a miraculous abracadabra It's remarkable! The spa is reason enough to stay at Meadowood, but there's more!
Meadowood, a Relais & Chateaux hotel and leading world destination, resembles a private estate more than a hotel. The natural beauty of the grounds and buildings is inescapable and the food and service are all that one expects from a resort of this quality. Meadowood cuisine includes a Garden Menu in lieu of a spa menu, offering guests a dining experience that matches gourmet expectations for the menu as a whole.
Travelers find rest, relaxation and cherished time at Meadowood--a place of soothing, peaceful experiences that rejuvenates and improves a sense of well-being.
www.meadowood.com tel. (800) 458-8080
TOP PICKS
FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
KING ESTATE: For the second consecutive year at the
West Coast Wine Competition, King Estate 2000 Oregon Pinot Gris won a gold
medal, best-of-class, and was named sweepstakes winner for the white wine
category. Last year the 1999 King Estate Pinot Gris was the champion, and this
year the 2000 vintage successfully defended its crown. In the 20 year history of
this competition, it is unprecedented that a winery received the sweepstakes
designation in consecutive years. The competition included 1,559 entries.
For competition information, please visit: www.vwm-online.com.
THE MONTANA WINES/BRANCOTT VINEYARDS NEW ZEALAND 2002 HARVEST REPORT: New
Zealand recorded more than twice the grape tonnage than 2001's unusually small
harvest. Excellent weather and sound vineyard management are credited with a
well-ripened crop of great quality on all varieties. "More planted
vineyards only partly accounts for the increase in tonnage," says Montana Wines
national vineyards manager Tony Hoksbergen. "The main reason seems to be better
weather." In all three main grape-growing regions--Gisborne, Hawke's Bay
and Marlborough--wet weather in December and early January was followed by ideal
warm, dry conditions right through to harvest.
NEWSWEEK adapted a report from Harvard Health Letter about "Red-Wine Headaches." It reports, "A glass of Merlot or Cabernet may help keep the heart strong . . . but the red-wine headache is a real medical condition. Experts have not pinpointed the cause. Some blame sulfites . . . others suspect histamine, since red wine packs up to 200 times as much of the compound as white. Tannins found in grape skins could cause headaches by altering serotonin levels . . . or it could be the alcohol. Suggested coping strategies: try wine without sulfites; try wine with less tannin or older wines; take an antihistamine before imbibing.
CAYMUS Vineyards' founder Charlie Wagner died in February at age 89. Son Chuck Wagner has worked with his dad over the years to create one of the most coveted red wines from Napa Valley. Now Chuck's son, Charlie Jr., 22, continues the family's work with his dad, particularly at Mers Soleil and the central coast Chardonnay. Vice President Karen Perry tells me Chuck has some plans he's been considering for a decade. "Chuck wants to dedicate CAYMUS to Cabernet," she says. "He admires the Bordeaux style of one wine and respects California's unique character as well. A new winery is on the drawing board and replanting is always a consideration. Our vineyards in other counties--Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara--will also pay attention to picking riper grapes but Chuck will monitor alcohol levels to keep them under control." Other things are in the hopper too. Keep tuned.
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NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
STONE CREEK 2000 Exclusive Selection Viognier, Santa Maria Valley $22: "Our Exclusive Selection wines are handcrafted and blended for an exclusive, limited release," explains Winemaker John Garaventa. "These wines represent the pinnacle of Stone Creel's winemaking ability with exceptional quality. This Viognier was aged five months in 100% French oak barrels, which allowed it to develop layering aromas or orange and citrus blossoms. On the palate it is full bodied with concentrated flavors of ripe pear and pineapple integrated with oak, and flows to a long, smooth finish."
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STERLING 1999 Three Palms Vineyards Merlot $55: "Always one of our most anticipated wines, the fruit easily reaches numerical ripeness in early September, yet attaining flavor maturity is a tortuous wait--looking for black plum jam flavors to evolve. It's luscious with ripe fruit notes focused with black cherry and broad chocolate tannins and long finish."
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ROSEMOUNT Diamond varietal line garners a lot of excellent reviews for its value and fruit forward appeal. The Rosemount Prestige Wine Collection includes the wines described below. The Show Reserve wines focus on the distinct regional and varietal pairings such as the rich refined nature of Hunter Valley Chardonnay and the classical integrity of Cabernet Sauvignon from the famous terra rossa soils of the Coonawarra. Show Reserve wines are selected each vintage for their promise of greatness in the barrel, and aged in the winery cellars to ensure optimum complexity and greatness. Balmoral and Mountain Blue come from the Flagship line and are testament to the quality commitment of Rosemount. The producer believes "they are unique expressions of uncompromising winemaking resources harnessing the best fruit of the harvest." They have inspired a cult following in Australia and are considered modern day classics.
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VALLEY OF THE MOON 2000 Pinot Noir Sonoma $20: "a blend of grapes showcasing Carneros and Russian River, strawberries, spices, rounding out fine mouth feel, supple tannins and crisp finish.
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JORDAN Winemaker Rob Davis has just celebrated his 26th harvest at JORDAN Winery. "We make wine in an environment that is teeming with creativity, he told me. "Our staff is blessed with the guidance and support of Tom Jordan, whose acuity and ability to articulate our wine style is a constant source of inspiration. True to Mr. Jordan's enthusiasm for food and wine, we are fortunate to have one of the finest chefs in the world--Udo Nechutnys. Ours is a global palate and our philosophy has its beginning in Bordeaux, where elegance and finesse is bottled as a statement of drinkability.
JORDAN 1998
Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County $45 and JORDAN 2000 Chardonnay, Russian River
Valley $32. Rob says, "Over time, our wines have gone from the physical to
metaphysical, developed a softness that melds with greater richness and become
rooted in a passionate connection to the earth and all its influces." Who could
ask for anything more?
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DOMAINE CHANDON reports that still wines are now in its portfolio. Some history-- Almost 30 years ago the winemaker for Moet Chandon in France canvassed the globe in search of idyllic terrain for growing the classic Champagne varieties of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. The land was found in Northern California's Carneros appellation. Prior to the 2000 vintage only a small portion of the fruit was used to experiment with still wines. Ultimately these still wines were too good to keep undiscovered--even thought they are made in limited quantities--so now they are available in select wine shops and restaurants across the country. "For me, winemaking is about passion, intelligence and patience, " says Winemaker Wayne Donaldson. "It's about focus on detail. We start with high quality fruit to craft wines of complexity, delicacy and intrigue. I find them rich and supple on the palate, exhibiting a core of brightness that reflects our cool Carneros district. These handcrafted Domaine Chandon varietal wines pay homage to our unique understanding of traditional champagne varietals and the renowned Carneros appellation. " The 2000 season was generally regarded as one of exceptional quality with cool evening growing conditions prevailing. Yields were slightly lower than normal, resulting in small berries with excellent fruit concentration.
DOMAINE CHANDON 2000 Chardonnay, Carneros $19: "San Francisco Chronicle 2002 Wine Competition bronze medal, excellent fruit concentration, aromas of spicy honey and melon, subtle toasty oak, layers of sweet apple, toffee, orange blossom and crème brûlée, flinty finish, serve with grilled salmon, ginger chicken, spring rolls, Caesar salad or Thai spiced sea bass"
DOMAINE CHANDON 2000 Pinot Meunier, Carneros $29: "spicy complexity including clove, cinnamon and vanilla with red currant nuances, soft, long and complex flavors of truffle, blueberries, toffee, ginger and soy, serve with full-flavored or spicy foods like roasted lamb, pork roast or barbecue"
DOMAINE CHANDON 2000 Pinot Noir, Carneros $29: "cinnamon, fig, nutmeg and toffee, spicy French oak, brown spice, black cherry, caramel, and a subtle truffle, powerful and intense, complex layers of ripe fruit and a long, satisfying finish, serve with roasted meats, poultry, duck confit, semi-hard cheeses and wild mushrooms"
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CLASSIC WINES OF CALIFORNIA has released three reasonably-priced Cabernet Sauvignons. Publicist Lisa Walters says, "Wine drinkers are savvy consumers who continue to demand more for their money. We're meeting that demand by producing affordable, high-quality wines, vintage after vintage. Our Cabernets Sauvignon are award-winning, palate pleasing wines that also please the pocketbook year after year." Also, for cool summertime sipping, look for FOREST GLEN 2001 "
ForestVille Vineyard 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $6: "balanced and tasty with rich berries and nicely framed oak"
HACIENDA 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon "Clair de Lune" California $7: "cedar, cherries, and toasted oak along with complex hints of vanilla and black tea"
SILVER RIDGE 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrel Select, California $10: "barrel aged in American 12 months, rich, elegant, full of black cherry, plum, currant, toasty oak, great with food"
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RODNEY STRONG 2001 Charlottes Home Sauvignon Blanc $14: "The vineyard for this wine has well-drained sandy loam soils underlain with gravel and reaps the warm Alexander Valley sunshine," says Winemaker Rick Sayre. "It gives me tropical fruit driven character. We added our first crop of new Sauvignon Blanc from Russian River Vineyard--12% blend. It gives the cool-climate citrus with a touch of grassy spice. There are aromas of melon, passion fruit and lime and clover honey on a semlessly balanced palate."
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BOUCHAINE, founded in 1981, is owned by Gerret and Tatiana Copeland of Wilmington, Delaware. The company is dedicated to the production of premium Burgundian varietal wines ( Chardonnay 5,000 cases and Pinot Noir 7,500 cases) from Napa Valley's cool Carneros region, on 104 estate acres and from long term contracts with Carneros growers. The repeal of Prohibition marked the modern history of this property. The Garetto family built the winery and made wine here until 1951. It was purchased by the Beringer Brothers and used for a production facility for 30 years. The Copelands, sole owners in 1991, completed an extensive modernizing renovation in 1995. Bouchaine is the oldest continually operated winery in Carneros.
BOUCHAINE 2001 Rose of Pinot Noir, Carneros $16: "This watermelon-hued wine draws you in with its aromas of guava, citrus and green tea," Winemaker David Stevens says. "Flavors are bright strawberry jam, black cherries and lemon zest with appropriate tannins and great acid structure."
BOUCHAINE 2000 "B" Pinot Noir, California$15: "Rarely can you find a good $15 Pinot Nor. Here's one. It delivers true varietal characteristics, up-front strawberry, cherry pie and cassis, hint of allspice and a long smooth fruit finish."
BOUCHAINE 1999 "B" Chardonnay, California $13: "light floral aroma, hints of white flowers and mandarin orange, crisp apple and touch of oak, creamy, fruit forward finish"
BOUCHAINE 1999 Pinot Noir, Carneros $34: "berry and dark Bing cherry nose, touch cola, aromatic cedar, hint nutmeg, medium weight, crisp structure with ultra berry, touch sweet tobac, orange rind and lingering clean finish"
BOUCHAINE 1999 Chardonnay, Carneros $16: "crisper, cleaner style, nose of guava, passion fruit, vanilla and spice, mouth-filling complexity with candied lemon peel and honeydew, long crisp finish"
BOUCHAINE 1999 Dry Gewurztraminer, Mendocino/Sonoma $14: "crisp, clean, fresh apple blossom, baking spices, clean acidity, lime and melon, spiciness, floral qualities, zesty balance"
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BARTON & GUESTIER, committed to grape quality, has produced French wines for 275 years. The results are delicious, fruit driven wines at good value.
BARTON & GUESTIER 2000 Beaujolais St. Louis Tradition $13: "dominated by fresh red fruit aromas of raspberry and blueberry, liquorice and floral notes, pleasant soft palate, good concentration of supple tannins and flavors with spicy finish"
BARTON & GUESTIER 2000 Chardonnay St. Louis Tradition $13: "flowery aromas, smooth flavor with good acidity and freshness, long crisp finish, lively and harmonious"
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FOREST GLEN "Forest Fire" White Merlot $8 is touted as the wine that "can take on any spice." It's a bold, medium-bodied wine well balanced beween fruit adn acidity. Drink chilled and try with the recipes below.
ASIAN SPICED SALMON WITH WASABI
MAYONNAISE with FOREST GLEN "Forest Fire" White
Merlot
Recipe from Gourmet Cooking Arts Center. Serves four.
Mayonnaise:
1 cup mayonnaise
4 teaspoons soy sauce
1 ½ teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons wasabi paste
Make the mayonnaise: Whisk all ingredients together and add salt and pepper to
taste. Cover and chill.
Marinade:
½ cup soy sauce
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
4 teaspoons sugar
Four 8-ounce pieces skinless salmon filet
Make the marinade: Whisk all ingredients together; transfer to a plastic bag,
add salmon and seal tightly. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, turning bag over
after 15 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Prepare grill for cooking or preheat
broiler. When fire is medium hot, place salmon on oiled rack 5 to 6 inches from
fire or on an oiled pan under the broiler. Grill or broil, turning once until it
is just cooked through, about 3 minutes a side. Serve with wasabi mayonnaise.
www.forestglenwinery.com ~
ROAST CHICKEN PROVENCALE
Originally appeared in Gourmet Magazine. Serves four.
3-pound Chicken
1 Small Onion
1 Garlic Clove
1 Plum Tomato
1/4 cup Kalamata Olives
1/2 cup Packed Fresh Basil Leaves
1/2 cup Dry White Wine
3/4 cup Veal Stock
Preheat oven to 450° F. Season chicken with salt and pepper. In an 8-to-10 inch
ovenproof skillet, roast chicken in middle of oven for 20 minutes. Reduce
temperature to 350 degrees. Roast chicken 40 minutes more, or until a
thermometer inserted in fleshy part of an inner thigh registers 170 degrees and
juices run clear. Transfer chicken to a cutting board and keep warm, loosely
covered.
While chicken is roasting, finely chop onion and garlic separately. Seed tomato
and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Pit olives and finely slice. Chop enough basil to
measure 2 tablespoons and cut remaining leaves into thin strips. Pour off all
but 2 teaspoons fat from skillet and saute onion over moderately high heat,
stirring, for 30 seconds. Add garlic and sauté, stirring for 30
seconds. Add wine and deglaze skillet, scraping up brown bits. Simmer mixture
until reduced by about half. Add stock and return mixture to a simmer. Add
tomato and olives and simmer until sauce is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.
Stir in basil strips and remove pan from heat. Cut
chicken into 4 serving pieces. Pour sauce over chicken and sprinkle with chopped
basil.
~ For additional recipes go to www.forestglenwinery.com ~
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LAKE SONOMA WINERY 2000 Russian River Chardonnay $15: "Well-drained soils and a fog-cooled climate allow this early ripening rape to thrive in Russian River Valley, making Chardonnay its mostly widely grown variety--two-thirds of acreage. This wine has tropical fruit flavors, richness and floral spiciness, complexity, balance, rounded with tart acidity and an oak framework."
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THOMAS FOGARTY has two red wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains, principally his estate vineyards.
THOMAS FOGARTY 1998 Merlot, Santa Cruz $30: "Bold and spicy without bitterness, a full-bodied Merlot, pomegranate aromatics coupled with smoky tones, raspberry flavors and earthy elements finish long, enjoy with grilled pork or lamb"
THOMAS FOGARTY 1999 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz $23: "a feminine, softer Pinot Noir, ample bright and tart fruit, a rounded, well-figured wine carrying the soft texture and peppery spice to a lengthy finish"
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ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY Winemaker Tim Mondavi reported that "In Napa Valley, diverse mesoclimate and over 30 soil types provide ideal conditions for many grape varieties. Our Robert Mondavi Winery District Wines Series showcases these distinct regional differences by cultivating grape varieties in the terroir they love best. Sheep once grazed the rolling hills of Los Carneros (sheep or ram in Spanish), at the southern tip of Napa Valley and just north of San Pablo Bay so Carneros vineyards benefit from cool marine winds and fog. This influence tempers the warm summer days and makes Carneros the coolest area of Napa Valley, ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which yield wines of great balance and concentration. Warm sunlight increases development rate of color, flavors and sugars, while it degrades grapes' natural acidity. The climate results in an extended ripening period that preserves acids and develops complex flavors, also softening the tannins in Merlot to give this wine silkiness. In addition, the nutrient-lean clay loam soils of Carneros gently stress grapevines, causing them to direct their energy to the fruit and resulting in concentrated varietal expression."
ROBERT MONDAVI 2000 Carneros Pinot Noir $40: "Co-fermentation of different Pinot Noir clones, using exclusively wild yeast, adds layers of complexity. We've captured the dark cherry, plum and rose character by gentle winemaking and bottling without filtration. Aging eleven months in Burgundian barrels adds racy hint of smokiness.
ROBERT MONDAVI
2000 Carneros Chardonnay $26: "
Our 2000 Carneros Chardonnay expresses the vibrant apple, Meyer lemon and
tropical fruit character of grapes grown in the
cool, windswept hills of Carneros. Barrel fermentation with wild yeast and
hand-stirring during ten months of aging in French oak enhance the complexity
of flavors.
ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 Carneros Merlot $35: "deep, velvety layers of dark fruit, violets and spices, enhanced complexity of flavors with gentle handcrafting, including extended maceration and fifteen months in French oak barrels.
Other new releases follow.
ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa $30: "ripe cassis, blackberry, sweet spice nuances, mocha, violet, supple tannins, elegant and balanced"
ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville $50: "layers of ripe currant and blackberry, spices, vanilla, minerals and cedar, complex, intense flavors, muscular structure, long aging potential"
ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District $50: "silky texture, cassis, black cherry, mint, licorice and violet aromas, mature supple tannins, lush aromas and flavors, richness and complexity develop with age, versatile wine"
ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 Merlot, Stags Leap District $35: "pure fruit expression, silky tannins, lush layers of black cherry and plums, mocha, minerals and spice, delicious with cassoulet, braised lamb"
ROBERT MONDAVI 2000 Pinot Noir Reserve, Napa $50: "dark plum, black berry and raspberry, nuances of rose, earth and vanilla, complexity, warm spices that linger"
ROBERT MONDAVI 2000 Zinfandel, Napa $21: "bursts with dark berry flavors, layers of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, crushed black pepper and spices, supple velvety texture"
ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 Chardonnay reserve, Napa $38: "showcases our finest vineyards and winemaking artistry--vivid layers of tropical fruits, citrus, hazelnut, spices, toasty oak and vanilla, vibrant and crisp"
ROBERT MONDAVI 2000 Chardonnay, Napa $22: "layers of pear, tangerine, tropical fruits and spices, mineral nuances, hazelnut and vanilla, lush fruit flavors, complexity, see recipes on www.robertmondavi.com
ROBERT MONDAVI 2000 Fume Blanc, Napa $19: "flowers citrus, pineapple, minerals, lemon grass, elegant texture. spicy finish, enjoy with Fettuccini and rock shrimp and garlic infused dishes"
ROBERT MONDAVI 2000 Reserve Fume Blanc, To Kalon Vineyard, 88.5 Sauvignon Blanc and 11.5% Semillon $35: "silky melange of tropical fruits, floral jasmine tea, exotic spices, rich texture and complex flavors"
ROBERT MONDAVI 2000 Sauvignon blanc, Stags Leap District $23: "crisp, pure fruit expression, apricot, citrus, melon, orange blossom, , hint minerals and spices, bright fruit, balanced"
LA FAMIGLIA di ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 "COLMERA" California $40: "flagship of these wines, COLMERA reflects the super-Tuscan philosophy of blending Tuscan varieties with non-traditional grapes to create wines of great structure and elegance--Sangiovese, Syrah and Teroldego were selected from SLD and Oakville of Napa Valley for red fruit character, citrus zest and violet notes, subtle spice and silkiness"
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ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS--all about BARRELS. ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS (AVV) publishes a quarterly newsletter that's full of interesting information, including the articles on oak and the winemaker's piece on barreling red wines at AVV.
Oak Barrels and
Winemaking
The barrel has at least a four-thousand-year history. We think of
the ancients using clay vessels to store and transport food and wine because
archeologists have unearthed a multitude of preserved amphorae. Barrels appear
in Egyptian tomb paintings dated 2690 BC; yet there is a dearth of historic
barrels because wood decomposes over time. The oldest examples have been
found in European rivers, preserved there by cold water. The barrel's physical
shape - flat on the ends, bulging in the center, bunghole on the side - serves
the production of wine. Natural, spontaneous clarification of wine occurs when
the full barrel is resting on its side, and the sediment from the wine settles
in the bulge of the barrel. With the sediment, or lees, deposited in one place,
it becomes easy for the cellar workers to rack the clear wine away from the
residue.
Winemakers have a special kinship with oak barrels. "Many of
wine's textural elements and spice flavors derive from barrel aging," says Kevin
Hall, AVV's winemaker. "Although the chemistry of wine's interaction with
oak barrels is not completely understood, it's clear that barrel aging softens a
wine and enriches flavors and aromas." Oak barrels allow traces of oxygen to
enter through the bunghole, the joints and the porous wood itself, and this
aerating interchange produces a rounder, smoother wine with gentle tannins.
Coopers favor oak above other woods for its strength and long, straight grain,
characteristics that make the wood flexible to work and easy to render
watertight. For the winemaker it is oak's sweet, desirable flavors that add
delicious complexity to wine. Kevin Hall procures barrels that lend vanilla,
spice and oak nuances to the wine's flavors and aromas. He also looks to oak
barrels to provide soft tannins and structure.
The main oak sources for premium barrels are the forests of France and the
United States. Cold weather regions produce wood with the tightest grain.
Barreling Red Wine at AVV
Think of AVV's cave full of oak barrels as the winemaker's
pantry, a beautiful storeroom teeming with spices and other flavors that will be
carefully integrated with the fruity aromas and tastes of young wine. Some
barrels are made of French oak, others of American. They range in age from brand
new to four years, with new barrels imparting more tannin and oak flavor to the
wine. The barrels vary in level of toasting, giving the winemaker a spectrum of
choices for the aging program.
There are many considerations that precede barrel selection. Each varietal
responds to oak in a unique way. At AVV Kevin Hall chooses a combination of
barrels (varying age, origin and toast) to add nuance and complexity to the
estate grown wines. AVV's Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cyrus illustrate how
the winemaker's selections orchestrate the interplay of cooperage and wine,
ultimately producing the desired balance of fruit and oak. (For more,
please see www.avvwine.com, newsletter)
ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon $20: "aromas of black cherries, cassis, plum, cedar and hint of clove, medium to full bodied, abundant cherry and currant with velvety mouthfeel, supple and polished, finishes with firm tannins" The winemaker says this wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. The barrel selection included 25% new and 75% one-and-two-year-old American and French oak 60 gallon barrels, aged for 14 months.
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BERINGER makes two proprietary wines that I've been very fond of since their first offering. They change in content from year to year due to experimentation and what seems best in the vineyard for the style. For example, the 2000 ALLUVIUM BLANC has a touch of Chardonnay and Viognier. "1998 Knights Valley Alluvium Winemaster Ed Sbragia and vineyard manager Bob Steinhauer first began working together with Knights Valley fruit in the late seventies. They spent the next decade learning the vineyard's personality and understanding the varied microclimates and alluvial soil types throughout the property. In the late eighties, when phylloxera became an issue and replanting was mandated, Sbragia and Steinhauer applied their knowledge to determine which varieties, rootstocks, clonal selections, spacing and trellising systems were ideal for each part of the vineyard. For instance, Merlot is planted in loamier soils near the center of the alluvial fan and the vines are trained and managed so that the fruit clusters are exposed to the early morning sun and shaded by their leaves from the warmer afternoon sun. "One of our values as a winery is that the vineyards are an extension of the winemaking thought process," explains Steinhauer.
BERINGER 2000 Knights Valley Alluvium Blanc, White Table Wine $16: "Ed Sbragia and his winemaking partner, Laurie Hook, barrel fermented the individual lots of the two varietals in 60% new French oak and stirred the lees twice a month during the nine months barrel aging for a round, lush mouthfeel and toasty vanilla, nutty, oak-laden aromas and flavors. Malolactic gave the wine creaminess balanced with crisp acidity in the Sauvignon Blanc Semillon. With 49% percent Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine accentuates the Graves style." This is a delicious, food-styled wine for which one glass is simply not enough!
BERINGER 1998 Knights Valley Alluvium, Red Table Wine $30: "Ed Sbragia and Laurie Hook kept all lots separate during vinification and aging. Their patience during harvest paid off with dense, bright black berry Merlot extracted from extended maceration. Small oak barrel vinification, predominantly French, lasted for 20 months. The assemblage used a base of 75% Merlot for its black cherry, coffee aromas and blackberry/cherry flavors, and blended some Cabernet Sauvignon to layer more complex flavors and strengthen the structure, plus small amounts of Cabernet Franc to add spice and length to the finish, Petit Verdot for its deep color, and Malbec to enhance the Merlot's blackberry fruit aromas and flavors." Ed says, "The 1998 Alluvium has extracted, bright fruit aromas with a nice smokiness and vanilla, like a fresh-baked berry pie. In the mouth there's a jumble of red and black fruit flavors. Tons of fruit - blackberry and cherries predominantly carry all the way to the back of the palate. Laurie likes it with soft, ripe cheeses and French bread, but I love it with my wife Jane's beef brisket."
BERINGER has also released three 2001 summer sipping wines with a $6 value that will keep you cool while you sip: Chenin Blanc, Johannisberg Riesling, Gewurztraminer.
BERINGER 2001 Chenin Blanc $6: "delicate citrus and pear, spicy ginger, sweet honey and melon, smooth and lush"
BERINGER 2001 Johannisberg Riesling $6: "fresh peach-off-the-vine taste, lush, rounded mouthfeel and long fruit finish"
BERINGER 2001 Gewurztraminer $6: "delicate floral, rich apricot, lychee, sweet orange, crisp acidity, lingering spicy palate.
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KING ESTATE 1999 Pinot Noir, Oregon $22: "Our Pinot Noir program is based on a block by block, vineyard by vineyard, individual barrel-aging analysis. Each fermentation lot (61 lots total in 1999) is kept separate until ready to blend. This vintage was aged 10 to 12 months in small French oak barrels. 1999 had outstanding growing conditions. After a cool, dry spring combined with a long mild summer, our vineyards entered the veraison process around September 10. Harvest began October 1 and finished around November 5, presenting Oregon wineries with clean, dry fruit with beautiful color and intense aroma and flavor precursors. This wine displays raspberry, blackberry and plum aromas, hints of oak cedar, cinnamon, rose and mushroom. The flavors focus on blackberry and boysenberry with rich supple tannins, a beautiful balance and solid, well-integrated structure and a long silky soft finish."
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TREANA WINERY is a new-to-me winery, but with a winemaker named Austin Hope--it was destined to be wonderful! Founded in 1996 by the Hope family, they were grape growers in the Paso Robles area beginning in 1978 and decided it was time to put their knowledge and expertise into the bottle. Located east of Paso Robles, TREANA is in an area known at the Central Coast of California, where grapes mature on the limestone hills and gravelly soils of the Santa Lucia Highlands, tempered by afternoon ocean breezes. The Hope family began their Treana project in 1996 by switching their focus from Bordeaux to Rhone varietals.
TREANA WINERY 2000 Treana White, Mer Soleil Vineyard, Marsanne 34% and Viognier 66%, Central Coast $25: "This elegantly balanced and complex Rhone-style blend has intense floral nose, reminiscent of star jasmine, honeysuckle, stone fruit and pears on a complex mineral structure." Enjoy this elegant wine.
TREANA WINERY 1999 Treana Red, California Central Coast $32: "It's a proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, aged 14 months in French oak (40% new). The 50-acres of vineyards, high density and mixture of clones on calcareous clay loam soil give regional characteristics of spice, licorice and berries, deep color and full bodied, abundant briary aromas, black fruit, cassis, and spice, arm lush flavors of blackberries, black cherries and currants, balanced by fine, grainy tannins."
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CHATEAU SOUVERAIN 2000 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel $15: "Classically dry in nature, this Zin has aromas of raspberry, blackberry with a hint of strawberry jam, forward fruit aromas continue on the palate with hints of toasty oak and nutmeg, supple tannins and a dense extract frame with a long balanced finish."
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WILD HORSE WINERY AND VINEYARDS has grown in 19 years to one of the Central Coast's leading producers of premium varietal wines. Owner Ken Volk says, "Our success is a commitment to wines consistently high in quality for good value. Wild Horse is named for the wild mustangs roaming east of our estate--descendants of the first Spanish horses introduced to California. The name evokes images of the free and unbridled--the dynamic spirit manifested in our constant exploration of wine grapes and winemaking techniques." Wild Horse is located in Templeton, California, halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco along Highway 101 in the heart of California's Central Coast AVA (American Viticultural Area). "Central Coast" is a large umbrella appellation which contains many distinctive sub-appellations. It encompasses a territory whose borders are defined by the southern edge of San Francisco Bay to the north, reaching southward all the way to Santa Barbara County. The ridgeline of the Diablo Mountain Range approximates the appellation's eastern border, which extends all the way westward to the Pacific Ocean, excluding the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA.
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CHALONE WINE GROUP has a number of releases now available in your favorite wine shop.
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STONE CREEK 2000 Merlot, Special Selection, California $8: "aromas of black currant, black pepper, mint, smooth, well balanced, full flavors of ripe blackberry and plums, touch oak, soft and supple, compliments well-seasoned lamb, pork and pasta dishes"
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MAISON MARQUES & DOMAINES has released several wines from France's magical Loire Valley--named for the river. Known as the "Garden of France" and a favorite residence of the Renaissance kings, the peaceful countryside was a setting for castles, dreams and fairytales. The Loire wines also carry a romantic fairytale grace and elegance. The wines are as diverse as the climate and appellations within and impossible to generalize.
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BRANCOTT Vineyards of New Zealand produces delicious wines in Marlborough--the northeastern tip of N.Z.'s South Island. The climate is cool with an average temperature of 64°F during the hottest month. What makes Marlborough unique is its abundant sunshine and relatively dry summer--average annual rainfall is 34 inches. Long cool nights help support a slow ripening process. Marlborough wines typically have crisp acidity and intense, distinctive regional flavors.
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MASON CELLARS has three distinctive wines available on the market.
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HANDLEY CELLARS has released six new wines, one of which is another HANDLEY Pinot Noir from a new appellation. Milla Handley loves working with this grape and knows just the right treatment for it.
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CHATEAU ST. JEAN put particularized California winemaking on the map in the 1970s by creating wines from single vineyards--especially Chardonnay. Such wines are still a cornerstone of the winemaking philosophy. Winemaker Steve Reeder says, "Many of the vineyards we began with in the '70s are still part of our vineyard designated series, and we have several new ones to introduce. The Belle Terre has historic significance for us while the Durell is just building a reputation. Please enjoy them."
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KENWOOD 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Jack London Vineyard, Sonoma $35: "The Jack London Vineyard combines bold, concentrated fruit with an uncommon focus that mirrors the rugged vitality of the writer whose named anointed the vineyard. In 1978, KENWOOD debuted its first Jack London Cabernet, featuring a label with London's "Wolf" bookplate logo. Now, 21 vintages later, the 1999 shows why this wine is among the most successful single vineyard series in California wine history--wonderfully complex with powerful berry, spice and earth flavors."
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ROTHBURY ESTATE is in the historic Hunter Valley of New South Wales--the oldest, ongoing wine-growing region in Australia. Beringer Blass Wine Estates is importing ROTHBURY ESTATE, which is new to the American market and has just released four wines. "These new wines have been fashioned with bright fruit, easy accessibility and ripe, rich flavors," says Winemaker Neil McGuigan.
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BERNARDUS "Our BERNARDUS 2001 Sauvignon Blanc $15
represents our dedication to creating the finest Sauvignon Blanc in California.
Recognizing the balance of the 2001 Harvest," says Winemaker Mark Chesebro.
"This wine joins the varietal character of New World with the balanced
refinement of Old World Sauvignon Blanc while focusing on the fruit." The
vintage was a typically long, cool growing season. By September 22, half
of the grapes had been harvested, then a period of hot weather caused the
remaining fruit to ripen simultaneously. We picked the gapes in five days and
resulting in fruit with a broad spectrum of maturity-- individual lots ranged
from herbal to citrus and melon to peach. The consequence was a bigger wine than
recent vintages with an attractive ripe quality. Although most
of our Sauvignon Blanc is barrel fermented, we achieve balance and retain
freshness by cool fermenting 35% in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then
transferred into French oak upright tanks for aging. Our objective is for
harmony over amplitude and integration, while complimenting varietal character.
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GRGICH HILLS: "The 2000 Chardonnay ($33) is a good example of our “house style” which emphasizes balance and finesse along with lots of flavor and complexity. Most conspicuous in this vintage is the familiar varietal aroma and flavor of pears and apples that make this Chardonnay so appealing. It has a wonderful texture or “mouth feel” making those flavors even more attractive. You’ll also notice subtle hints of yeast and toasty oak in the background which are evident but not overwhelming. Finally, this wine has great structure and acidity assuring that it can be served with a wide variety of rich foods and flavors.
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Kunde Tasting with Winemaker David Noyes in Austin:
Since 1904, four generations of Kundes have
lived, worked, and produced award winning wines and grapes on the same property
in the Sonoma Valley. Daily operations of the vineyards and winery are
handled by Bob and Fred's children - Bill, Jeff, Keith, Marcia, and Kurt. They
enthusiastically built the new KUNDE Estate Winery and their involvement in
each aspect of the business ensures its future.
The Kundes wanted to convert a historic barn into a winery, but it
had serious structural problems, so instead they built one on the same
site and in a similar style. Kunde may resemble an old barn outside, but it is definitely 21st century inside.
"It has all the latest technology," Winemaker David Noyes told me.
"The specialized crushing equipment allows me to use whole-cluster pressing--a real advantage in white wine production, or whole-berry fermentation for enhanced fruity character in Zinfandel or Merlot."
David Noyes welcomed directing the style of Kunde wines after 10 years as Winemaker
at Ridge Vineyards plus working at several Bordeaux chateaux. His 1990
Chardonnay put Kunde Estates on the map, and the many awards and accolades for his Century
Vines Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have distinguished him as well.
His 1997 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was among Wine
Enthusiast's "Top 100 Wines of the Year." Among the wines we tasted
were his Sauvignon Blanc.
"Our KUNDE Sauvignon Blanc is named for the magnificent 100+
year-old Magnolia trees bordering our Wildwood Vineyards. The 2001
Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc has vibrant aromas of grapefruit and mint and is full-bodied yet refreshing
with rich melon and grassiness enhancing the crisp citrus flavors in the finish.
Blend 82% Sauvignon Blanc, 13% Semillon, 5% Viognier. Enjoy this lovely wine
with grilled chicken, mildly spiced vegetables, or sushi."
For the KUNDE
2000 Chardonnay Sonoma Valley: "Soft and round with a vibrant mix of fruit
flavors, this elegantly styled Chardonnay lets its green apple and melon nuances
play out on a gentle frame of toast and vanilla. The ripe fruit is highlighted
by a subtle herb component that gives added complexity to its lengthy finish."
For the KUNDE
1999 Syrah Sonoma Valley, "Generous wild berry fruit greets the palate upon tasting this
wonderfully complex, richly textured wine. Along with the ripe berry component,
exotic hints of floral spice and herbs with a soft touch of roasted nuts define
its lengthy finish. It's a blend of 80% Syrah, 13% Petite Sirah, and 7% Viognier.
"In 1999, a warm fall followed a cool spring and summer giving us good acidity,
rich aromatics and
abundant ripe fruit aromas and flavors. The dry ‘La Niña’ weather patterns made
for dry soils and
small berries, hence concentrated flavors. These factors helped make our 1999
Syrah an exceptional
vintage with excellent aging potential. I particularly like the combination of
floral spice, ripe berries and the smoked meat flavors typical of this
varietal.”
www.kunde.com
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