The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 49th Edition
April 24, 2002
Outsanding California vintners of good report celebrating memorable anniversaries. Thank you for all the good wines! Here's to your continued success.
Winery of the Month: DRY
CREEK VINEYARD Celebrates 30 Years--David Stare established his namesake winery, Dry Creek
Vineyard (DCV), in 1972 as the first new winery in Dry Creek Valley since
Prohibition. When he arrived, Sonoma County grape-growing was sadly in neglect.
Seemingly, winemaking was history. "Old-timers watched me in amazement as I
ripped out prune orchards to plant grapevines, " Stare recounted. "Over
the years, economics had forced scores of wineries to close. Only
Pedroncelli, Frei Brothers, and Fredson had survived. But I was inspired and
determined. I asked about Sauvignon Blanc but the Sonoma County Farm Advisor advised
against it. I ignored them and planted it anyway. Today the Valley and our
winery are famous for delicious Sauvignon Blanc."
DCV's success encouraged revitalization of Dry Creek Valley's wine
industry. Today, 25 wineries with 5,500 acres flourish. The winery remains a family
affair with the second generation insuring the integrity and vision and commitment.
Stare is proud of his many industry "Firsts":
1. Sonoma County's first Fumé Blanc was produced at Dry Creek Vineyard and its success
launched the brand which remains aligned with Sauvignon Blanc. Characteristically
assertive Fumé Blanc "house style" remains a California benchmark.
2. DCV ranks among California's early champions of Bordeaux blending. DCV has never
produced a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. David Stare is closely aligned with
the Meritage Association, an industry group promoting the traditional art of Bordeaux
blending.
3. Regional appellation status originated at Dry Creek Vineyard. "Dry Creek
Valley" regional appellation appeared first on our
label. Dry Creek Vineyard was instrumental in petitioning for legal recognition of
this wine-producing district in 1983.
Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley, a 110-member regional organization, was initially
headquartered here.
Winery of the Month:
GRGICH HILLS Celebrates 25 Years---Mike
Grgich is one of the most enthusiastic Americans around. Every July 4 he
celebrates his citizenship, heritage and winery at his century-plus home in
Yountville. It is a lovely party and I go as often as possible. Napa Valley's Grgich Hills
Cellar (founded 1977) is owned by Miljenko "Mike" Grgich and Austin E. Hills.
Grgich gained worldwide attention in the 1976 "Paris Tasting" when French
judges chose his 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay over the best of white Burgundies in a
blind tasting. Grgich had the expertise to make great wines and Hills, owner of
established vineyards, had the in business and finance background. For 25 years the
winery has continued to make world class wines, earning countless awards and recognition.
At the new millennium, Mike's daughter Violet Grgich and nephew Ivo Jeramaz
became
more responsible for managing daily operations. "Each of the five Grgich Hills wines
will always be treated as a special child," Mike says, "receiving devoted
attention to every phase of development. We've never been satisfied with
yesterday's best, so each vintage arrives as a new challenge to create the future best
wines. Our
stellar attraction is Chardonnay, an elegant wine that displays rich flavors and exquisite
balance. We also produce a clean, crisp Fume Blanc, a spicy Zinfandel, a Cabernet
Sauvignon with tremendous depth and complexity, a Merlot addition and last but not least,
a luscious dessert wine named after my daughter called 'Violetta'."
GRGICH HILLS and DRY CREEK
VINEYARD remain among my favorites.
Chardonnay: (prices vary store to store, look for current releases, please)
Merlot
Beaulieu array of wines recently tasted
NEWS
DOMAINE CHANDON INTRODUCES A NEW STYLE: "Still" wines
pay homage to three exceptional Champagne varietals.
With the 2000 vintage, Domaine Chandon announces its first national release of Pinot Noir,
Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. While Domaine Chandon is best known for its Chandon
sparkling wines, the winery has produced limited quantities of still wines from Carneros
since 1989. These wines will be available in select restaurants and wine shops
throughout the country in spring 2002.
S. ANDERSON Vineyard in Stags Leap has appointed Michael Updegraff as
vice-president and general manager. Cliff Lede, chairman of Napa
Properties, Inc., and Ray Signorello, owner of Napa Valley's Signorello Vineyards,
acquired S. Anderson earlier in 2002. Signorello, president of S. Anderson, said
"We are extremely fortunate to be joined by a person with Michael Updegraff's
experience and stellar reputation," said Signorello. "I have always been
impressed by Michael's professionalism and expertise. And his industry knowledge and
management skills will be invaluable as we move forward." Updegraff, who
was not seeking a change, said that he couldn't resist the opportunity to work with
Signorello and Lede as they put their own stamp on the winery. "This is a very
special Napa Valley property and I look forward to playing a role in the winery's future
success," said Updegraff.
Virginia's Federal District Judge Richard Williams declared unconstitutional the ban
on wine shipments of wine from out of state as a violation of the Commerce Clause which
mandates free trade among the states. This action notes an important success for
wine buyers. May the process continue.
JAMES HALLIDAY was named the "2002 Wine Literary Award" winner. In his
career he has written and contributed to over 25 wine books.
NECTAR is a new floral business established by Christy Anderson to enhance wine events and parties. Christy designs utterly delightful flower arrangements for individual gifts, restaurants, centerpieces, wine baskets, or occasions. Contact: 512/413-8878 or christy@ccsi.com
FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI at SAYAN "has introduced new Spa pavilions that have redefined the meaning of guest comfort," said General Manager Royal Rowe. Austinites remember Royal warmly from his days at the Four Seasons in Austin when he helped orchestrate the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival events so capably. I visited the Bali Sayan and dined with Royal and Pam Rowe while visiting last summer. This property is incredibly unique architecturally--a true gem--and surrounded by lush gardens, terraced rice fields, gentle hills, on the banks of Bali's sacred Ayung River, and incomparable natural beauty. I can only imagine that the spa pavilions are the icing on the cake. FOUR SEASONS BALI SAYAN was ranked among the world's best spas by Conde Nast Traveler in 2000 and 2001, Travel & Leisure in 1999, 2000 and 2001 and others.
THE WINE INSTITUTE announced that the total California wine sales volume to markets in the U.S. and abroad rose one percent to 450 million gallons in 2001. The INSTITUTE places the estimated retail value of all categories of California wine sold in the U.S. at $13.4 billion in 200, compared to $13 billion in 2000.
RIEDEL CRYSTAL (pronounced like needle in U.S.) has introduced the Tequila glass, designed to highlight the characteristics of Mexico's national drink. The glass was designated "Official Tequila Glass" by Consejo Regulador del Tequila. For information, please contact: www.riedelcrystal.com
KORBEL invites visitors to come see its flower garden "bubbling over with spring's effervescence" and soak up the beauty in a vast myriad of colors and fragrances. In addition to the unique array of antique roses dating back to the late 1880s, there are 20 varieties of hydrangeas, a Flowering Maple, fuchsias, geraniums, ferns, hostas, clematis and others. Stay to enjoy the sparkling wines.
OBEROI BALI has welcomed Vincent Guironnet as resident manager. A French national, he comes from Sangri-La's Rasa Sayang & Golden Sands Resorts in Penang, Malaysia, where he was Food & Beverage Director. Oberoi Vice President Kamal K. Kaul says, "Following a busy summer season, we joined the world in shock and sadness at the tragic events in the world. Our sympathies go to each and every soul affected by these calamities. We continue to hope and pray for peace in the weeks and months ahead. The Oberoi Bali, The Oberoi Lombok and The Oberoi Mauritius, maintain their peaceful surroundings and continue welcoming guests to our exotic islands. We look forward to welcoming returning and new guests to our tropical oases--the cultural paradise of Bali, the untouched island of Lombok and the beachside retreat of Mauritius."
MEADOWOOD has deservedly earned recognition from some top magazine readers. They scored their stay at MEADOWOOD very highly in the magazines' readership polls. Conde Nast Traveler and Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report reported that their readers gave high marks to MEADOWOOD, with Conde Nast Traveler readers naming MEADOWOOD 4th among the "Top Fifty North American Hotels" and Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report naming MEADOWOOD 10th among the "Top Twenty U.S. Resort Hotels." I've stayed at MEADOWOOD many times over the last 15 years and I've always found this unique resort to be beautifully cared for, the facilities manicured to perfection and the food superb. I hope to post my article on my November visit in my next Newsletter.
JEFFREY'S, a fine place to dine in Austin, Texas, has been named to Nation's Restaurant News "Fine Dining Hall of Fame." The award recognizes dedication to the industry, to good food and service and makes JEFFREY'S one of ten honored.
CHANDON LAUNCHES A NEW SPARKLER – CHANDON RICHE
Chandon has introduced Riche, a
sparkling wine showcasing the ripe fruit flavors of California’s sun-drenched
vineyards. Riche
marks the first entry of a nationally distributed extra-dry style into the super
premium ($15-$25) segment. This méthode
traditionnelle sparkling wine addition allows Chandon to present a wide range of flavors
to consumers .
NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
GRGICH HILLS celebrates its 25th with the release of three wines and its first Merlot, GRGICH HILLS 1999 MERLOT (only 495 cases) and it's available only at the tasting room. "We've found the American Canyon region, with its cooler coastal climate, is superb for Merlot. Our ten acres produced an exceptional crop and I'm delighted to add this latest addition to our growing family of wines," Mike says. "It's full-bodied, stylish and elegant, spicy and almost perfumy, ripe with cherries and plums, rich and supple with just a touch of oak, moderate tannins and a balanced structure." GRGICH HILLS 1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNON $50, is a "touch more refined and elegant than the successful 1997--which won nine gold medals. It has a seductive aroma that wafts out of the glass to meet you like a genie out of its bottle." GRGICH HILLS 2000 FUME BLANC $ 18 is the first vintage to contain grapes from the American Canyon vineyard. "It's extremely well-balanced, medium bodied and harmonious with supple texture, citrus, chamomile and subtle herbal notes. Serve with your favorite seafood dishes."
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LOCKWOOD partners believe that world-class wines come only from great
vineyard locations and excellent winemaking. Given this philosophy, Lockwood Vineyard was
established in 1989 to produce premium and ultra-premium wines from a contiguous,
1,850-acre vineyard in the southern Monterey County. Lockwood wines are
exclusively estate bottled wines, a legal definition that requires 100 percent of the wine
to be grown, produced and bottled from vines tended and vinified on-site.
The LOCKWOOD estate was planted in 1981 by founders Paul Toeppen, Phil
Johnson and Butch Lindley, whose cumulative vineyard management experience is over 90
years. The vineyard is one of the largest premium estate vineyards in the world, selling
fruit to a handful of Californias most elite wineries. Stephen Pessagno joined the
company as vice president and winemaker in 1991.
LOCKWOOD 1998 Merlot $18: "Our Merlot vineyards yield grapes of ripe fruit intensity
yet softer tannins, making them very approachable in their youth. Since 1991, French oak
aging has been the cornerstone of our twelve-month barrel program, adding subtle caramel
and toasty aromas to the wine. Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon were blended into the
Merlot to add complexity and round out the flavor profile. This wine is versatile with
many types of dishes due to its high fruit intensity, elegance, and restrained structure.
LOCKWOOD 2000 Chardonnay $13: "We harvest our Chardonnay, however, between 2:00 and
7:00 a.m. when the ambient temperature is about 55ºF, thus minimizing this effect and
producing softer, more elegant wines. After the juice settled for 72 hours, we added
slow-fermenting Epernay II yeast and then transferred it to French oak barrels for
fermentation. Since I prefer wines that are fruit-forward and have good acid
balance, I focus our grape growing and winemaking toward this end, making them enjoyable
on their own or with food.
LOCKWOOD 1999 Syrah $16: "I suspect Syrah has gained much attention in recent years
due to its jammy and exotic, spicy aromas. A hint of black pepper is evident in the nose,
and its fleshy style makes it attractive to drink now with meat or game. Blending was
limited to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon to add structure and balance but not overwhelm the
essence of Syrah. This wine was barreled in French oak and allowed to mature for twelve
months prior to bottling."
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DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 2000 Chardonnay, Sonoma $16: "citrus, melon, pineapple-guava, vanilla, butter cream undertones, tropical fruit, apple pie, toasty oak. lean, smooth character, pair with fish, seafood dishes with creamy sauces"
DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 199 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma $21: "cedar spiced aromas, currants, cherries. integrated components of toasted oak"
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BERINGER FOUNDERS' ESTATE Winemaker Ron Schrieve says, "When I'm making our wines, I have a great luxury in being able to choose fruit from some of California's best growing regions. This gives me an incredible amount of freedom to 'build' a wine in layers, bringing in various aroma and flavor components that complement and play-off each other in interesting ways."
BERINGER VINEYARDS Winemaker Laurie Hook says Beringer's revered, scarce older properties would be difficult to acquire today. "They are like pearls strung from cool Carneros through the heart of the Napa Valley up to St. Helena and spreading across from Spring Mountain to Howell Mountain. The opportunity to make wines from these diverse vineyards is rare for a winemaker and my colleague Ed Sbragia and I count our blessings."
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VALLEY OF THE MOON 1999 Zinfandel, Sonoma $15: "good texture up front, builds intensity, acid balanced by soft tannins, that add substance and structure to the long lasting finish"
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NAPA RIDGE Winery has a new home in Napa Valley and is making Napa appellation wines. NAPA RIDGE 2000 Chardonnay $12" "rich with complexity, honey, buttery, pineapple, full, round" NAPA RIDGE 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon $12: "big, complex, berry fruit, cedar, tobac, silky tannins, herbal flavors, juniper"
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ST. CLEMENT Winemaker Aaron Pott completed his first harvest (2001) in Napa Valley. "After making wines around the globe for the last few years, it's good to be home! I was reminded of all the nuances of Napa that really make it my favorite place to live and make wine. When it come to Chardonnay, I'm passionate about the Carneros. The fruit is bright, clean, and intense. I blended the ST. CLEMENT 2000 Chardonnay ($16) with 60% Carneros fruit. This wine has a nose of honeysuckle, roasted hazelnuts, tropical fruit, a medium body, yellow stone fruits, mineral notes and citrus. It's refreshing, balanced between fruit and acidity and is exceptional with Asian and Indian spices and foods with a cream base."
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ACACIA Winemaker Michael Terrien says that the Carneros climate was mild in 2000 except for one extraordinarily high temperature spike that blasted through on June 14. "Some pre-veraison berries were burned by the hot sun, which effectively thinned the already moderate crop. The remainder of the season was typical Carneros and kind. ACACIA 2000 Chardonnay, Carneros ($22) has fresh pear , apricot and honey aromas with savory oats, ginger, and nutmeg, rich, pleasant weight, a long and juicy finish."
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BERNARDUS 2000 Chardonnay, Monterey ($20) characterizes the classical expression of Monterey vineyards. Winemaker Mark Chesebro says, "The grapes picked for our Chardonnay have been combined with components from other cool coastal vineyards. They create the 'spice rack' approach. Every delicate nuance from each vineyard, each strain of yeast and each cooper are carefully developed and balanced for this wine. Our moderate 2000 weather allowed the fruit to ripen at a steady pace to achieve ripeness and elegance. 90% of the wine completed primary and malolactic fermentation in barrel and was pressed without skin contact--for creamy texture--mouth feel is the most important expression of our wine."
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ROBERT MONDAVI 1999 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $125: "Since the beginning, my family and I have always endeavored to make wines that belong in the company of great wines," says Winemaker Tim Mondavi. "Our winery is surrounded by the historic To Kalon Vineyard within the Oakville appellation where world-class Cabernet is grown. It's always a pleasure for me to create a new vintage of our Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon--together with the soil and the people I work with. This wine is from our finest Napa vineyards sites--a combination of mesoclimate, soils, clonal selections and cultivation--that yield complex, long-lived wines with layers of flavors. It has opulent dark fruit notes of cassis, black cherry and berry that reflect grapes grown on deep soils, nuances of spice, minerals, licorice and violet weave through the highly extracted, velvety flavors. We hand-crafted the wine with a long maceration, 17 months of aging in new French chateau barrels, gentle barrel-to-barrel racking and bottling without filtration."
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LAKE SONOMA 1999 Old Vine Zinfandel, Saini Farms $20: "produced from 70-year-old head pruned vines in Dry Creek Valley, full bodied with rich layers of vibrant black cherry and berry fruit flavors, concentrated color and solid oak framework enhance complexity"
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HARTFORD FAMILY WINES made history by receiving the second consecutive Sweepstakes Award at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. The boutique winery won the top white wine honors for the HARTFORD COURT 1999 Sonoma Coast Laura's Chardonnay ($54). This impressive wine produced only 264 cases and features fruit from select vineyards along the cold, windswept Sonoma Coast Last year the HARTFORD 1998 Russian River Valley, Fanucchi-Wood Road Zinfandel took the Sweepstakes Award for best red wine. In a short span of time, this emerging region has proven itself capable of producing spectacular Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. The area has some of the most suitable terroir and microclimates, offering vineyards and blocks that are planted to the "old clone" or "heirloom clones" that are becoming increasingly rare in California. HARTFORD FAMILY WINES is a family-owned winery that specializes in small lots of Pinot Noir, chardonnay and Zinfandel. Founded in 1993 by Don Hartford, his wife Jennifer Jackson-Hartford and sister-in-law Laura Jackson-Guiron, they produce HARTFORD COURT wines. The trio's goal is to create wines that tell the story of their unique vineyards (located in Green Valley, a sub-appellation of the Russian River along the Sonoma Coast).
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KENDALL-JACKSON 2000 Riesling $10 is a crisp, lean and decidedly off-dry wine. It made Esquire magazine's list as "best value Riesling in America." It goes well with spicy foods, Asian dishes or as a summertime aperitif.
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President Agustin Francisco Huneeus says, "When we pioneered viticulture in Chile's Casablanca Valley in 1990, there were fewer than 100 acres of vines. Today Casablanca is recognized as one of the finest winegrowing regions in Chile with nearly 8,000 acres of vines. My father and I chose Casablanca for its diversity of microclimates, soils, and similarity to Napa Valley. Veramonte is one of seven wines in our portfolio and estate totals 1300 acres. We're having great success with our organic farming. Our winery was completed in 1998 and we invite guests to visit."
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FREI BROTHERS was established by Andrew Frei in 1890 in the heart of Sonoma County. Today, Gallo Family of Wines honors and continues the tradition begun by Andrew with its Reserve wines--fruit forward and food friendly. Three new 2000 reserve wines have been released --Chardonnay from Russian River, Merlot from Dry Creek and a Pinot Noir from Russian River.
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FLOODGATE VINEYARDS is one of northern-most vineyards in Mendocino's Anderson Valley. Here the Navarro River has created a narrow gash between two mountains-- a thin canyon canyon reaching northwest from the Coast Range out to sea. Floodgate Vineyard sits at its head and is planted only to cool weather varietals. Grapes mature on hillsides amidst fog and celestial currents and ripen.
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CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Steve Reeder says that the cheese course is back in fine dining and he is thrilled! "I often opt for the cheese course instead of dessert--all varieties and the smellier the better. I just released two wines that are fantastic with cheese--Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Enjoy!"
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IRON HORSE has released three new Pinot Noir wines. Joy Sterling says, "Pinot Noir is our rising star. I believe IRON HORSE will be more famous fro Pinot Noir than we are for Sparkling--manly because of our location in Green Valley. It's in the heart of Sonoma County's Pinot Noir country. Another reason is our maverick winemaking techniques. We no longer crush the grapes but rather gently de-stemmed and leaded into stainless steel tanks between layers of ice pellets to instigate a slow, cool fermentation." I was thinking about what Joy said and recalled one visit I had early on to IRON HORSE. I was writing an article on Audrey Sterling, Joy's mother, about her entertaining. Forrest Tancer, a partner and the winemaker, joined us for a tasting and interview and he brought a bottle of his latest Pinot Noir, remarking that he thought it had great potential. That was in 1985, so it looks like things have progressed nicely. Notwithstanding that fact, I tend to favor IRON HORSE Sparkling wines, which will always be a favorite of mine among Forrest's many stellar creations. By the way, all three Pinot Noirs were hand picked and de-stemmed into stainless steel tanks to cold soak for seven days. When fermentation is complete, the new wine is pressed gently from the skins and transferred to French oak barrels. Fermentation goes to completion in the barrels where the wine is aged until blending and bottling.
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JOSEPH PHELPS VINEYARDS: Founded in 1972, the winery and home vineyards are located near St. Helena, on a 600-acre ranch characterized by rolling hills, native oaks, and 160 acres of vines. The first Phelps wine was a 1973 Johannisberg Riesling. Since then, production has grown to 100,000 cases annually, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot as the winery's core varietals. The Phelps portfolio also includes —in years when weather conditions permit — luscious dessert wines made from Johannisberg Riesling Scheurebe, Semillon and Muscat. Phelps pioneered a number of 'firsts' in the early years of the winery. The 1974 Insignia was the first Bordeaux-style blend produced in California under a proprietary label. The release of the 1974 Syrah in 1977 sparked industry-wide interest in a remarkable French varietal whose plantings in California had disappeared and been virtually forgotten for over half a century. And in 1990, after years of research, a whole new family of Rhone-style wines was introduced under the Vin du Mistral label and included Syrah, Viognier, Grenache Rosé, and a delicious red wine blend called Le Mistral.
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ZACA MESA 2001 Z-GRIS, Santa Ynez Valley $9: "This wine is produced in a traditional Rhone style. Our various red varietals are destemmed and cold soaked for four to five days with a small portion of juice being "bled" (French call is "Saignee") into another tank. The "bled" portion is incorporated so the wine will have a proper juice-to-skin ratio for color, aroma and flavor. The Saignee is put into a stainless steel tank, cold settled for 24 hours, and then inoculated with yeast. The winemaking team evaluated the newly fermented rose lost and did many trial-blend," says Winemaker Clay Brock. "With aromas of fresh strawberries, watermelon, rose petals and anise, it's lively and refreshing, a party wine for barbeques and picnics".
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