The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 48th Edition
March 24, 2002
Winery of the Month:
Kendall-Jackson-- What began as an escape from the bustle of
the city, in two decades has become a success story unparalleled in California winemaking.
Jess Jackson believes the success comes from strongly held beliefs and insights.
In 1974, he admired the fruit of California's cool coastal regions for outstanding
flavors. "I wanted to produce from this abundance," he says, "a
single outstanding 'cuvée' that offered quality and value, consistently, year after
year. The result was Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay, a rich, round and flavorful wine,
made with hand-crafted methods. The first vintage (1983) and succeeding ones were
acclaimed from consumers and wine critics." Soon, the Vintner's Reserve line
included Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Zinfandel, then came
the Grand Reserves. Today, K-J farms more than 5,000 acres in California's coastal
regions and exports wines to more than 30 countries. High quality is maintained by
controlling the source. Four separate wineries house what is possibly the single
largest barrel-fermentation project in the world. K-J remains family-owned with the
ideas that began the winery--focusing on quality and value. Jess says,
"At Kendall-Jackson we believe that a great wine comes from flavors--in blending the
best with the best. We choose a variety of grapes with dramatically different yet
equally outstanding flavors. From this abundance, our winemakers create a single
outstanding blend with rare depth and complexity. I believe that this freedom to
choose from unlimited vineyards to blend different flavors gives our wines their unique
quality and rare consistency, vintage after vintage." Also,
the United States Environmental Protection Agency has named Kendall-Jackson
Wine Estates a winner of the 2002
Stratospheric Ozone Protection Award, to be presented in Washington D.C. during the 2002
Earth Technologies Forum. The annual EPA awards "honor the extraordinary
accomplishments of individuals, companies and organizations that have made significant
contributions to protecting the environment" and have been given since 1990. An
international panel reviews nominees before the EPA makes final selections.
Organizations representing 37 countries have been honored since the award's founding. For
2002 the award will be presented to 16 individuals from eight countries, two associations
and ten companies from the United States, Canada and Japan. www.kendalljackson.com
KENDALL-JACKSON continues its gold medal winning ways: K-J wines have
earned 16 gold medals in seven competitions around the nation including five Best of Class
honors. Last year, Kendall-Jackson was named the top award-winning winery in the California
Wine Winners book, which tabulates results annually from the Top wine competitions in
the United States and appears to be off to a good start for this year. To date,
these K-J wines have earned top honors:
Gold & Best of Class Medals
2000 Vintner's Reserve® Semillon Jerry Mead's New World International Wine
Competition
2000 Vintner's Reserve® Pinot Noir San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
1999 Vintner's Reserve® Syrah Jerry Mead's New World International Wine Competition
2000 Grand Reserve Chardonnay San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
1999 Grand Reserve Merlot Jerry Mead's New World International Wine Competition
Gold Medals
2000 Collage® Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz San Antonio Express-News Wine Competition
2000 Vintner's Reserve® Chardonnay San Antonio Express-News Wine Competition
2000 Chardonnay, Camelot Bench Jerry Mead's New World International Wine Competition;
Florida State Fair Grand Harvest 1999 Grand Reserve
Chardonnay Hilton Head WineFest
1999 Great Estates Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco Hilton Head WineFest
1999 Great Estates Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley Hilton Head WineFest
1998 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Florida State Fair
1998 Great Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Jerry Mead's New World International Wine
Competition
1997 Stature* Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Hilton Head WineFest
TOP PICKS
FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
Varietal: MERLOT, recently tasted (please look for vintage currently released)
Varietal: PINOT GRIS OR PINOT GRIGIO
San Antonio Express-News Wine Competition: I was
pleased to judge the San Antonio Express-News Wine Competition again this
year. The winners have been named and congratulations to the gold, silver
and bronze medal recipients. Some wine categories follow.
CATEGORY: Cabernet Sauvignon Over $15
Murphy Goode Sonoma 1999 Gold
Texas Hills Vineyard Texas Hill Country 2000 Gold
Alexander Valley Vineyards Alexander Valley 1999 Bronze
Kenwood Sonoma 1998 Bronze
St. Francis Sonoma 1999 Bronze
Stimson Lane Vineyards & Estates Petaluma Bridgewater Mill South Australia 1999 Bronze
Trinchero Mario's Reserve California 1997 Bronze
CATEGORY: Cabernet Sauvignon Under $15
Black Opal Australia 1999 Gold
Delicato Monterra Monterey 1999 Gold
Luis Felipe Edwards Chile 1999 Gold
Trinchero Family Selection's California 1998 Gold
Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley 1999 Silver
Columbia Crest Washington 1998 Silver
Kendall Jackson California 1998 Silver
Beringer California 1999 Bronze
Camelot California 1999 Bronze
Cap Rock Texas 1998 Bronze
J. Lohr Winery J. Lohr Estates Paso Robles 1998 Bronze
Trinity Oaks California 1998 Bronze
CATEGORY: Chardonnay Over $15
Llano Estacado Winery, Inc. Texas 2000 Gold
Sebastiani Sonoma 1999 Gold
Dry Comal Creek Vineyards 2000 Silver
Ironstone Vineyards Lodi 1998 Silver
Jacob's Creek 1998 Silver
Pine Ridge Napa Valley 1999 Silver
Becker Vineyards Texas 2000 Bronze
Cambria Santa Maria Valley 1999 Bronze
Chateau St. Jean Alexander Valley 1997 Bronze
Gloria Ferrer Carneros 1999 Bronze
J. Lohr Winery J. Lohr Estates Arroyo Seco Monterrey 2000 Bronze
CATEGORY: Chardonnay Under $15
Beringer Napa Valley 1999 Gold
Cypress California 2000 Gold
Kendall Jackson- Reserve California 2000 Gold
Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley 2000 Silver
Columbia Crest Columbia Valley 2000 Silver
Hess Collection Napa Valley 2000 Silver
Kendall Jackson-Estate Santa Maria Valley 2000 Silver
Trapiche Mendoza 2000 Silver
Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 1999 Bronze
Columbia Crest Columbia Valley 2000 Bronze
Delicato Monterra Monterrey 2000 Bronze
J. Lohr Winery J. Lohr Estates Arroyo Seco Monterrey 1999 Bronze
Lindeman's-Bin 65 SE Australia 2000 Bronze
Louis Jadot Burgundy 2000 Bronze
Rodney Strong Vineyards Sonoma County 2000 Bronze
Sutter Home California 2000 Bronze
CATEGORY: Merlot Over $15
Murphy Goode Sonoma 1999 Gold
Franciscan Napa Valley 1999 Silver
Sebastinani Sonoma 1997 Silver
St. Francis Sonoma County 1998 Silver
Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 1999 Silver
Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley 1999 Bronze
Dry Comal Creek Vineyards 2000 Bronze
Jepson Mendocino 1998 Bronze
Texas Hills Vineyard Texas Hill Country 1998 Bronze
CATEGORY: Merlot Under $15
Camelot California 1998 Bronze
Columbia Crest Washington 1998 Bronze
Cordier Estates, Inc. Big River Wines SE Australia 2000 Bronze
Cypress 1999 Bronze
Delicato Monterra Monterey 1998 Bronze
Lindeman's Bin 40 Australia 2000 Bronze
CATEGORY: Pinot Noir
Carneros Creek Napa Valley 2000 Silver
King Estate Oregon 1998 Silver
Rodney Strong Vineyards Russian River Valley 2000 Silver
Villa Mt. Eden California 2000 Silver
Cambria Santa Maria Valley 1998 Bronze
Estancia Monterrey 2000 Bronze
Kenwood Russian River Valley 2000 Bronze
Rutz Cellars Rutz Cellars Russian River Valley 2000 Bronze
CATEGORY: Red Bordeaux Blends
Becker Vineyards Texas 1999 Silver
Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek 1998 Bronze
Hedges Columbia Valley 1999 Bronze
CATEGORY: Red Zinfandel Over $15
Burgess Napa Valley 1998 Silver
Ravenswood Lodi 1999 Silver
Bogle Winery Bogle Vineyards California 2000 Bronze
J. Lohr Winery J. Lohr Estates Lodi 1999 Bronze
Quivera Dry Creek Valley 1998 Bronze
Rodney Strong Vineyards Northern Sonoma 1999 Bronze
Zingaro Zingaro Mendocino 1999 Bronze
CATEGORY: Red Zinfandel Under $15
Cline Cellars California 2000 Silver
Trinity Oaks California 1999 Silver
Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley 2000 Bronze
Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Creek 1999 Bronze
Rancho Zabaco Sonoma 1999 Bronze
CATEGORY: Sauvignon Blanc
Saint Clair New Zealand 2000 Silver
Bodega Norton Mendoze, Argentina 2000 Bronze
Chateau Ste. Michelle Washington 2000 Bronze
Kendall Jackson California 2000 Bronze
CATEGORY: Sparkling Over $15
Charles Heidsieck Champagne 1995 Gold
Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves Gloria Ferrer-Royal Carneros 1990 Silver
Tattinger Champagne Silver
Alfred Gratien Epernay Bronze
Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves Gloria Ferrer-Carneros Cuvee-LD Bronze
Piper Sonoma - Blanc de Noir Pinot Noir Sonoma Bronze
Piper Sonoma - Brut Chardonnay Sonoma Bronze
CATEGORY: Sparkling Under $15
Chandon Argentina Bronze
Korbel Sonoma Bronze
CATEGORY: Syrah/Shiraz
Penfolds Koonunga Hill, Australia 2000 Gold
Seven Peaks Paso Robles 1999 Gold
Cordier Estates, Inc. Big River Wines SE Australia 2000 Silver
Stimson Lane Vineyards & Estates Petaluma Adelaide Hills 1999 Silver
Stimson Lane Vineyards & Estates Petaluma Bridgewater Mill South Australia 1999 Silver
Snoqualmie Columbia Valley 1999 Silver
Yangarra Park Australia 2000 Silver
J. Lohr Winery J. Lohr Estates Paso Robles 1999 Bronze
McPherson Australia 2000 Bronze
ST. SUPERY received 3 Gold, 3 Silver and 4 Bronze medals at the recent San
Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. The 2000 White Meritage won Gold/Best of Class
and the Sweepstakes award--given to the overall best white wine of the competition. This
year, 1,910 wines were submitted by 425 wineries. The results were seen
throughout St. Supéry's wine portfolio. Gold/Best of Class was awarded to the 2000
White Meritage and 2001 Moscato; Gold to the 1999 Dollarhide Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon;
Silver to the 2000 Dollarhide Ranch Chardonnay, 1999 Napa Valley Chardonnay and 2000 Napa
Valley Chardonnay; Bronze to the 1998 Red Meritage, 1999 Cabernet Franc, 1999 Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon and 2001 Sauvignon Blanc.
MUMM IS OFFICIAL CHAMPAGNE OF MIAMI'S GRAND PRIX OF THE AMERICAS AUTO RACE: Champagne Mumm is the official Champagne of the new American LeMans Series (ALMS) auto race to be held on the Miami, Florida, waterfront October 4-6, 2002. The main race, Sunday, October 6, features the four classes of cars that compete annually in the famed 24 Hours of LeMans in France. Three-liter bottles of Champagne Mumm Cordon Rouge will be featured in the winner's circle with magnums awarded to the winners of each class. Champagne Mumm will be served exclusively during the event and will be poured in the VIP Club. Champagne Mumm is also the official worldwide Champagne of Formula 1, which returns to Indianapolis next September.
KAPALUA WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL TO HIGHLIGHT PERRIER JOUËT: Commemorating Perrier Jouët's 100th anniversary of the "flower" bottle, the 21st Annual Kapalua Wine & Food Festival will feature a vertical tasting of Fleur de Champagne hosted by noted master sommelier Andrea Immer, joined by Olivier Brun of Champagne Perrier Jouët. Tickets are now on sale for the July 5-7 celebration of food, wine and the good life--held at the famed Kapalua resort and Ritz-Carlton Hotel on the Hawaiian Island of Maui. This will be a rare opportunity for consumers to taste vintage Fleur de Champagne poured from magnums in an educational and inspirational setting. For more information and a complete schedule of planned events, call toll-free 1-800-KAPALUA.
S. ANDERSON Vineyard has been sold. Cliff Lede, chairman of Napa Properties, Inc., and Ray Signorello, owner of Napa Valley's Signorello Vineyards, have purchased the Stags Leap-based S. Anderson Vineyard from the Anderson family. The acquisition includes the S. Anderson brand, the winery, caves, visitor facilities, inventory and all licenses and the 50-acre estate vineyard, planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. "Cliff and I have been interested in investing in a Stags Leap District property for several years," said Signorello. "We have always been great fans of the wines of the region and have been very impressed with the Cabernets coming from S. Anderson, so this was the perfect opportunity for us," he said.
CANYON ROAD reported that its wines "proved a worthy contender against wines at twice the price" in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competiton. The 2001 Sauvignon Blanc received Best of Class plus a Gold Medal. the winery entered five wines--three of which earned Gold, including the 2000 Chardonnay and 2000 Merlot! CANYON ROAD earned Silver Medals for the 2000 Shiraz and 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon. www.canyonroad.com
The OBEROI Group, founded in 1934, received top awards for two
luxury properties in India. The Oberpoi Amarvilas in Agra and Rajvilas in
Jaipur are the two luxury resorts that recently won the coveted international hospitality
awards given by the Gallivanter's Guide and Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report. The
awards reinforce the Group's reputation of providing guests with a perfect blend of
quality service, luxury and efficiency.
Gallivanter's
Guide "Editors Choice Award" went to the Amarvilas in Agra.
The editor said, "It takes a lot for a hotel to truly amaze us and the Amarvilas
succeeded on every front. Every serious hotel aficionado should visit this resort at
least once in a lifetime." The Rajvilas received the "Grand Award
Winner" from the Harper's Hideaway Report, reporting that "the
resort was romantic, charmingly staffed and sumptuously designed with luxuriantly
manicured grounds, exotic pavilions and unique water features."
OBEROI operates in seven countries with 36y properties including in the luxury Oberoi
hotels and Resorts and the superior first classTrident Hotels. For information,
contact 800-5-OBEROI or www.oberoihotels.com
WINE INSTITUTE reported that California winegrowers harvested 3.0 million tons of
winegrape varieties in 2001, down 9% from 2000's record 3.3 million tons, but still the
second largest crush in California. Winegrapes are the third leading agricultural
crop in revenues to farmers in California--a state where 350 crops are grown.
BARONE RICASOLI WINERY, located in the Chianti classico region of Tuscany, won "Winery of the Year 2002" Award from Gambero Rosso magazine--premier Italian magazine of wine, food and travel. It is the highest honor given to any Italian winery in a given year.
STEVENOT Tempranillo has taken its fourth gold medal, this one at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. STEVENOT received silver medals for the 1999 Merlot and 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon.
***
NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
LUNA Vineyards has released its 1999 Sangiovese Riserva, one the winemakers tout to be "one of LUNA's greatest winemaking accomplishments." The reason, they say, is that great Sangiovese is produced from sites with rugged, infertile soil, and the search in Napa for such soils was particularly challenging. Nonetheless, the soils were producing and the grapes forthcoming with the 1999 vintage. This high maintenance varietal requires great care and understanding to be at its best, and the winemakers feel they mastered these intricacies to create this distinctive, single vineyard, 100% LUNA Sangiovese. LUNA Vineyards 1999 sangiovese, Napa Valley $59: Winemaker Kelly Wheat says this wine is deep, black cherry with expansive aromas of red fruits, plum, and mocha, concentrated earthy flavors of currant, black fruits and black pepper intermingle with a touch of leather, flavors of expresso and dark chocolate with a long, seamless finish." It's 100% Sangiovese from Napa, single vineyard souce, fermented with naturally occurring yeast, aged in 40% new French oak, unfined and unfiltered.
XANADU Wines of Margaret River Australia has released its first vintages in the United States. The wines, imported by William Grant and Sons, come from a premier wine-growing region on Australia’s southwest coast on the Indian Ocean. Margaret River crushes only about 1% of Australia’s total wine but produces close to 20% of the country’s top-rated wines. The wine style is characterized by rich complexity, smooth varietal flavors, and elegance. All wines are made using the methods that will compliment the specific fruit characteristics of the grapes. The Xanadu wines have already received many awards and accolades in Australia and Europe. Most recently, the 2000 Chardonnay has received a gold medal from the International Wine Challenge 2001 in London. Furthermore, the Lagan Estate Reserve Cabernet has been noted as "Distinguished" by Langton’s Australian Wine Buying and Investment Guide – a definitive source for determining quality and secondary market value for Australia’s top wines. www.XanaduWines.com.au.
GEYSER PEAK has released a triumvirate of wines that are already receiving acclaim.
STONE CREEK 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Special Selection $8: "aromas of honey and hay, rich and lively, tropical flavors of pineapple and apricot, creamy flavors and soft finish"
KENWOOD 2000 Russian River Pinot Noir $17: "One of the best food friendly red wines produced in California, medium-bodied structure balanced by its blend of ripe cherry and plum flavors with a hint of oak, pair with grilled tuna or roasted sea bass."
FETZER Barrel Select wines prove that "better barrels make better wines." These
are highly stylized wines attract consistent top reviews from wine critics. They highlight
the unique styles and flavors that come from the fermentation and/or aging of premium
grapes in small, handcrafted barrels.
HOGUE Cellars Winemaker David Forsyth believes consumers like Washington Riesling and Gewurztraminer when it's made in a fruit-forward style with plenty of balancing natural acidity, and that's the way he makes it. "We can't keep up with the demand." Additionally, David says the key to making great Cabernet Sauvignon is to ensure crop load is balanced so grapes ripen evenly and develop concentrated flavors. For his Merlot, it's the rich fruit character and soft silky tannins that keep his wines popular.
FOREST GLEN Winemaker Ed Moody says "the fruit stands out with this vintage while it is still intensely complex. The 2000 Chardonnay was made to show off the fruit and spice of the grape which is complemented with barrel fermentation and a balanced barrel aging program using new and aged American oak. The 2000 Merlot, one of the best-selling Merlots in the nation, continues the tradition of a balanced and enjoyable wine with cherry and berry flavors that are softened by oak."
KIM CRAWFORD WINES Winemaker Kim Crawford's passion for quality and consistency in his wines pushed him into screw top (Stelvin) closures on his new 2001 Unoaked Chardonnay. He says cork taint manifests itself in varying degrees and affects 8-10% of wines. During processing, natural cork is cleaned and air-dried. If chlorine is present at any time during the process, either from rain or steaming water, there is a chance that TCA (2,4,6 trichloranisole) will form in the cork. While screw caps are not new, the public has perceived them as "cheap, low quality closures. In fact, Stelvin closures are considerably more expensive than corks and capsules.
STERLING Vineyards 2001 North Coast Sauvignon blanc $12: "fresh, floral, nectarines, melons, grapefruit, hints of lemongrass, mint, lemon, minerals, full and ripe, crisp acidity, seamless and refreshing"
The HAMILTON family arrived in 1837 to plant South Australia's first commercial vineyard, making wines in 1841. This pioneering enterprise became the original Hamilton Ewell Vineyards. Deborah and Mark Hamilton, the fifth generation Hamilton to work these vineyards, whit the help of his father Robert Hamilton have relaunched South Australia's first winery and wine brand. It is a historic brand with a range of premium wines, some from the exiting new region Wrattonbully near Coonawarra in southeast Australia. "Our aim is to produce high quality wines that express the character of the vineyards and regions they originate from," Mark says. "My philosophy is from the vineyards up--securing quality vineyards and expressing their quality."
ECCO DOMANI has introduced the 2001 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie $10. It has fresh flavors and lively aromas with a crisp style. This varietal is quickly becoming a favorite of mine for food pairing. It is lovely with soups and smoked salmon.
ST. FRANCIS wines of Sonoma County are made exclusively from hand-picked, 100% Sonoma County fruit and are full-bodied and intensely flavored. Winemaker Tom Mackey has been making St. Francis wines for years and knows these vineyards better than anyone. His Merlot has won gillions of awards over the years. He says, "My interpretation of this varietal is a full and intense expression of the grape in a distinctive Sonoma style. The perfumed aromas of plummy black fruit and spicy herb and vanilla nuances are confirmed in the ripe, lush flavors. On the palate, the fruit is rich and full with hints of chocolate, set in a structure of generous, round tannins which are carried into a persistent, mouthfilling finish." Sounds just about right to me!! Also enjoy the 1999 ST. FRANCIS Cabs and Zins.
Rosario
Rosario Resort is a beautiful place for family vacations. A relaxed and casual atmosphere makes for comfort and a calm discovery of the facility. The food is excellent too.
Sailors, boaters and scuba divers flock to Rosario Resort for nonpareil water experiences. The intricate and expansive waterways around Puget Sound’s Orcas Island are completely rewarding. Sailboats and motorboats may be rented to self propel or chartered to leave the driving to the captain. Rosario’s full service marina has moorage (power, water, showers, laundry, general store and 32 slips) or buoys. There are also kayaks, skiffs and canoes, so if floating is in the cards, this is the place. It is incredibly beautiful. (www.rockresorts.com)
Rosario’s Island Dive & Water Sports (
www.divesanjuan.com) facility has been recognized in Rodale’s Scuba Diving Magazine among the top three in North America. The instructors are attentive and thorough. Island Dive operator Don Kenny explains the intent."We give scuba customers the best experience they can have," Kenny says. "We rent and take care of all the gear—carry it, rinse it, dry it, whatever is needed. The dive sites are close to the dock, 300 yards away, so we’re out and back in less than three hours for a two-tank boat trip."
Official Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) courses are offered too. One program trains guests to become fully certified in a weekend. Non-divers, however, can enjoy snorkeling or sightseeing on boats. Kenny says there’s plenty to see: king crab, wolf eels, sea cucumbers, scallops, anemones, ling cod and giant Pacific octopus—some of the largest in the world.
Jacques Coustou said, "There is more life here in the water per square foot than anywhere else in the world." Now there’s a recommendation.
Rosario’s concierge also will arrange activities, including shopping in Eastsound, Orcas Island’s major town. There’s surprising individuality in several shops for those seeking something different. Monkey Puzzle (
www.monkeypuzzle.com) owner Sallie Bell designs one-of-a-kind jewelry and elaborately decorated vests. She offers designer clothing, Asian artifacts, Tibetan art and hand-dyed silks. Très Fabu! is the fun creation of Nikki—a milliner exclusively before she opened her shop two years ago. It’s an upscale boutique for the young and young at heart, featuring articles designed by Flax, Arianne, EQD, Babette, Giraudon and others, as well as hats. Roz Van Maren sits at her sewing machine in RozWear (www.rozwear.com) creating her very innovative, functional and wearable art. Roses, Bread and Specialties has homemade breads that must be enjoyed, specialty cheeses, a deli and fine wines. All these places are within a few blocks of each of each other in the very walkable Eastsound. Important note: The float planes that fly guests from Seattle to Orcas Island must limit total weight to fly safely, so ideally, pack two small, soft-sided bags that weight 24 pounds.ALASKA, an Amazing Place!! ALASKA—"In wilderness is the preservation of the world." Henry David Thoreau
Alaska is amazing. It’s the most different place I’ve ever visited. Ultimate in natural beauty, Alaska remains predominantly wilderness and encourages mankind’s irresistible urge to see, to know and to understand. It is estimated that man has altered less than one percent of it. In the summer the sun shines almost all the time, depending on the location. It’s invigorating. Life is lively. In the winter, it’s mostly dark. But the aurora borealis makes adagios across the blackness in creeping pinks, blues, and amber to cast a mystical spell. Alaskans, like their indigenous bears, sleep longer in the winter. Alaska (1,593,438 sq km) is one-fifth the size of the United States. It has more coastline than the lower contiguous 48 states and more lakes and rivers than any state. Rugged and majestic, Alaska offers the most varied scenery--towering mountains, narrow fjords, far-reaching tundra, volcanoes and glaciers, thick forests and desolate islands, extremes that one must experience to believe. It’s divided into five regions: Far North (in Arctic Circle), Interior (heartland), Southwest (Kodiak Archipelago, Aleutian Islands and Bristol Bay), and the two most visited regions, South Central (glaciers, marshes, lakes and streams) and Inside Passage (water highways and forests). The Inside Passage has two major cities, Ketchikan— southernmost cruise ship port of call and salmon and timber town, and Juneau, capital and gateway to Glacier Bay National Park. Aged glaciers shaped the Inside Passage into a scattering of fjords and islands. It’s located within the 7-million-hectare Tongass National Forest (a rainforest), largest in the U.S. The Tongass provides wilderness activities, and supports the fishing, tourism and timber industries. Native Indian tribes, especially the Haida, excel at carving totem poles from the wood. The craft is practiced at Saxman Native Village (near Ketchikan) where artists create totems, canoes, paddles and masks. Lee Wallace, a Haida master carver, says, "Our traditional poles trace family histories. Each face represents a characteristic, event or some power in nature. Totems are popular artwork and I have customers everywhere." Additionally, Tongass music-grade wood is the most valuable timber harvested. Europeans primarily import if to make piano soundboards and fine string instruments. When listening to the musical refrains from a piano or the sounds of a bow instrument, think of Alaska. In the early 1900's, Alaska's timber industry flourished. Lumberjacks wielded axes, climbed trees to chop the tops and rolled logs along the rivers. In the summertime, loggers competed against rival logging camps. An energetic event recalls those historic skills--The Ketchikan Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. It’s fun and informative. The fjords connect Alaska’s land, water and ice in a fenestrated laciness that seems strangely fragile and sturdy. Ferries and floatplanes (skiplanes in winter) are the lifelines between wilderness and civilization throughout Alaska. Light aircraft especially carry travelers to remote and otherwise inaccessible areas. There are only 4,093 miles of certified centerline roads in Alaska (comparison, Texas is one-fourth Alaska’s size and has 300,539) so boats and planes are essential. Helicopters are handy too. I traveled by helicopter to Misty Fjords National Monument Wilderness and a remote interior lake to see wildlife. We spotted a mother bear and her cub and landed to watch them fish. Baby bear waited impatiently nearby while mother bear demonstrated the techniques. She was disciplined and successful. Shortly before take-off, a male grizzly (another name for brown bears) appeared and the other two grabbed their fish and scooted for the forest. Bears move quickly for their size. My salmon was easier to acquire at Ketchikan’s Cape Fox Lodge. Chef Tim Frank prepared it exactly as I requested—pan grilled in butter. It was perfect. Other menu items were good too, but not for those on diets. There’s nothing dainty about Alaskan food. It is hearty and full-flavored and I relished each bite. Devils on Horseback, for example, were small and tender scallops wrapped in crisp bacon pieces and served with an appealing Hollandaise. Another favorite starter was Baked Brie and Crab Spread, served with tart Granny Smith apple slices and warm sourdough bread. Chef Frank said he cut a round of Brie in squares and melted it in cream before adding the crabmeat and seasonings. Maritime Bake was a mixture of scallops, shrimp and crabmeat baked in a creamy Havarti dill sauce. The Alaska King Crab Legs, served in the shell, were sweet, tender and luscious with lots of clarified butter. Bumbleberry pie—a sugar-sprinkled, nicely browned crust filled with apples, berries and rhubarb—made a delicious finish. "I’ve always enjoyed cooking and fishing, so I came to Alaska to do what I love best," Chef smiles. "A good meal is one of life’s peak moments and you just can’t skimp on flavor. Butter and cream carry the flavor and Alaska fish are perfect." Alaska is synonymous with perhaps the best fishing in the world. The Inside Passage entices saltwater fisherman to hook a halibut, cod, rockfish or five species of salmon. The historic George Inlet Lodge, 12 miles from Ketchikan on George Inlet, is known for beautiful scenery and fishing. For years lodge owner Carstens Jasper had eyed the 1940s building (previously a bunk-and-mess house for cannery workers), longing to own it. Finally he and his wife, Patricia Shanghnessy, bought the historic place, converted by previous owners into a fishing lodge, and became innkeepers. They added their own touches; such as, remodeling the ten bedrooms, kitchen, and dining room and adding a new floating dock and boat ramp. "One of our biggest remodeling changes was on the second floor, "Shaughnessy says. "It used to have common shower rooms, but we put in private baths." Fishermen are single-minded sportsmen, concerned only about fish, not about lodging, dining or clothes. The small rooms suit their purposes just fine; however, the triumphant food is a surprise bonus. I enjoyed the delectable Halibut Cheeks, finely breaded with buttery crumbs and baked to a succulent moistness. The Stuffed Pork Chop, filled with cake-like homemade cornbread stuffing, was tastily topped with a perky mushroom sauce. Salmon was prepared blackened or lavishly topped with a roasted red bell pepper sauce. I chose the latter and was most happy with my choice. "I had never cooked for a crowd," Shaughnessy says, "but I learned in this kitchen. I’d read cookbooks, mix and stir, and then read some more. Things have gone well." They continue to go well. The plates are large and filled to the rim with smoky meats or fish and vegetables. The good food, company and conversation ended a lovely evening, and if that wasn’t enough, a 10-year-old boy caught a 110-pound halibut, further exciting the guests. All felt challenged for the next day’s catch. Wild, fresh Alaskan seafood is addictive, especially salmon. I was curious to learn more about it and visited Silver Lining processing plant and the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery —two interesting and informative Juneau places. Biologist Ladd Macaulay wanted to build a non-profit, private hatchery to enhance Alaskan salmon. His opportunity came in 1974, says Kelly Stevens, tourism manager at the hatchery. "In 1974, salmon runs reached a record low," Stevens says. "Legislation passed allowing non-profit hatcheries to ‘partner’ with the state to enhance salmon resources establishing a loan fund in 1975. A commercial troller gave Macaulay $500 and told him to ‘get this thing moving.’ Macaulay began in his back yard on Kowee Creek, incubating salmon eggs on the back porch. Unfortunately, no salmon returned to Kowee Creek. Volunteers used a beach seine to catch salmon and egg-take for fertilization. By 1979, however, approximately 30,000 pink salmon returned to the hatchery on Kowee Creek—a stream without salmon the previous seven years." In 1987, the Juneau hatchery, named for Macaulay in 2000, was under construction and completed in 1989. Salmon always migrate to their place of birth to spawn and die thereafter. Through an underwater viewing window, visitors can watch hundreds of fish swimming up the man-made fish ladder to lay and fertilize their eggs. The $7 million hatchery, one of the few world-class hatcheries of its kind, is a major producer of salmon. The visitor’s center includes year-round exhibits, a saltwater aquarium, displays explaining the salmon life cycle and hatchery operations. Fortunately for fishermen and diners everywhere, the hatchery releases have helped to augment the wild salmon population. A visit to Ketchikan’s Silver Lining Seafoods plant was enlightening too. Constantly hosed down, the odor-free plant was spotless. Fishing vessels bring fresh-caught product to the dock. It is delivered to the conveyer belt, separated by species, graded, weighed, iced and stored until it’s processed (usually within two hours). Then the fish are cleaned, left whole or filleted, blast frozen and later smoked and canned. The retail shop ships seafood around the world. In addition to enjoying fish, visitors to Alaska are fascinated by glaciers. Juneau, gateway to Glacier Bay National Park, has an impressive glacier of its own, Mendenhall, and only minutes from downtown. These behemoth ice forms seem alive. They flow from ice fields high in the mountains where heavy snowfall accumulates over the years. Compressed and under pressure, the ice has the ability to flow, thus becoming a glacier. Mendenhall flows down the valley, moving forward at approximately 1.3 meters per day. It wastes away, however, at a faster rate of speed through melting and breakage. When a portion of a glacier breaks off, it is called calving and makes thunderous rumbling, resounding noises. Perhaps the most intense glacial feature is its ice blue color. The crystalline structure of ice absorbs or reflects light and all colors of the spectrum are absorbed except blue, which is reflected. It is an incredible blue. The community of Gustavus, located on a plain created by Glacier Bay’s receding glaciers, is the receiving town for travelers. Bear Track Inn and Gustavus Inn are two welcoming and comfortable destinations with great hospitality that also serve excellent food family style. Gustavus Inn owners David and JoAnna Lesh bought the inn from his sister. She bought it from their pioneering parents who came to Alaska in 1952. David makes the best sourdough rolls ever, and delicious pancakes served with his jams and sauces (garden grown rhubarb and berries). The rest of his cooking is equally laudatory. Dinner one evening included big Dungeness crabs in the shell served with melted butter and David’s tomato-based dips and sauces. The Pacific Cod Parmesan, Rice with Fresh Chives, Steamed Swiss and Rhubarb Chard, and a Mixed Green Salad had all fresh vegetables from their garden. David likes to cook and the guests are pleased that he does. "We added on to the place in the 1980s. It’s for guests who enjoy being with other people. Folks like our food and we’re full service—book everything. Now former guests’ children are bringing their children. I don’t need to do a lot of marketing. We operate by word of mouth and have a lot of repeat guests," he smiles. "We were in Gourmet in 1968." Bear Track Inn owners Jane and John Olney and son Mike opened their facility five years ago. Their intention is to consider any request possible. "We arrange whale watching, saltwater or fresh water fishing trips, kayaking, cruises and everything else for our guests," Mike says, "but occasionally they want something not on the list. Guests who wanted something different instituted two activities: individual whale-watching tours rather than with a group, and flying into a remote area to fish." Bear Track Inn is a big, attractive building of log construction. John, a retired engineer, commissioned a contractor to build and ship it to the Glacier Bay location in sections. There are no roads to Gustavus, so everything comes by barge or plane. Building was easier and more reasonable where quantities of materials were available. "Our year-round population is about 300," John says. "There’s no bank, no mechanic, no police or beauty shop. Everything is shipped. Electricity is 55 cents a kilowatt hour. Dry items on the barge cost 6 to 18 cents a pound—but the barge comes only once a month. Food is 30 cents a pound over its cost, but you have to fly food in every few days to have it fresh." The food at Bear Track Inn shows their care. A couple of soups pleasantly accommodated the cool evenings—Corn Chowder with fresh corn, and Cream of Mushroom, a rich, earthy mixture with a warming texture. Pan Seared Sesame Crusted Halibut with Lemon Ginger Buerre Blanc gave a tasty, rich accent to the firm but delicate local favorite. Grilled Caribou with a Burgundy Reduction was dense and tender with pleasant gaminess. Caribou is grown on an open-range farm; seafood is caught daily. As the world’s largest protected marine sanctuary, Glacier Bay has some of the best wildlife sightseeing. Particularly popular are the humpback whales that migrate to the area annually. Cruise boats like the Spirit of Adventure, a 150-passenger catamaran, take tourists out for a full day. The park guide on board said our experience was unusually fruitful. For example, we watched a handsomely racked moose swim between islands, reach shore, and finally walk off into the forest. "I’ve conducted tours for two years and I’ve never seen a swimming moose," the guide sighed, "This is awesome!" It was only the beginning. A congregation of mocha-brown sea lions covered an enormous boulder off Marble Island. The raucous, guttural barking of two males—stretching their long necks with heads erect as they slapped their chests against each other--resounded across the water. Further along, on separate islands, five different brown bears and one black bear were sighted. They searched the beaches for mussels and other creatures to eat, tossing aside huge granite rocks with one flip of a bow-legged paw. At another turn, a large collection of otters, many with pups resting on their stomachs, drifted by the catamaran staring directly at us, seemingly as curious about people as we were about otters. On approaching Margerie Glacier, several humpback whales swam near the boat. Visitors watched their spouting blowholes shoot moisture streams into the air before acrobatic leaps brought them out of the water with tails arched for a dive. Humpbacks achieve a length of 13 to 16m and weigh up to 30 tons. A chorus of gasps at the exciting water dance reverberated over the deck. In another coup, Margerie Glacier put on a calving exhibition, treating the tourists to no less than six thunderous incidents of ice breaking off and crashing. The little ice-blue bergs were stunning. Every place in Alaska has something fascinating to offer. Anchorage, the largest city, is especially blessed with fine museums, good restaurants, wildlife areas, and the nearby Alyeska Resort. Alyeska, the only AAA-rated, four-diamond property in Alaska, is well known for winter sports and excellent dining. The tram ride up the mountain to Seven Glacier Restaurant was proclaimed in Conde Nast Traveler as "the best view of any ski resort." The ride is lovely, but the food deserves praise equally. It is the most sophisticated food in Alaska. Talented Chef Jason Marcoux prepared a degustation that showed the range of his skills well. Appetizers included his signature dish—the Peppered Dungeness Crab Cakes, Sweet Corn Puree, Lime-Jalapeno Aioli, Cilantro. The succulent crab cakes were nicely textured with the crabmeat dominating (no crumb fillers). Two sauces, sweet and sour, contrasted flavors as well as adding color interest. Day-boat fresh, Alaskan seafood is used exclusively at Seven Glaciers. The Cajun Spiced Blackened Scallops with Smoked Ham Butter Sauce was presented distinctively on a crisp bed of frisée with scallions and the plump, moist scallops atop. The zesty warmth accented nicely without overwhelming heat. I enjoyed the creative Curry Spiced Fritter, Pear Brandy Infused Smoked Pork, Julienne Vegetables and Wild Berry Coulis. Lightly battered and spicily different, the dish left me wishing I could finish it despite what was yet to come. I enjoyed salmon as often as possible and did again with Chef’s Cold Smoked & Grilled Alaskan Salmon with Spicy Green Chile Dumplings and Cilantro Citrus Sauce. Beautifully plated, the salmon was excellent and the dumplings so imaginative I could happily have had another platter. The Mesquite Grilled Strip Loin of Venison was served on fresh, wilted spinach and dressed with a shallot-bourbon sauce decoratively placed around a grilled balsamic portobello and pesto-roasted Yukon potatoes. It was a stunning presentation. The delicious and moist Pan Seared Fresh Alaskan Halibut was served on green-onion linguini with a sun-dried tomato citrus beurre blanc. Each dish was as attractive as the previous one and just as delicious, including the Asian Style Crispy Muscovy Duck Breast. Tender and juicy, it was served with snow peas and decoratively topped with sesame cellophane noodles. Dining at Seven Glaciers was indeed a delectable evening. In the city of Anchorage (Seven Glaciers is in Girdwood) don’t miss dining at the Ristorante Orso. The food is delicious at this attractive, rustic Italian downtown restaurant. Service is friendly and efficient and the tables are well appointed. Altogether, it is a pleasant experience. For appetizers I began with the Antipasto Orso, a traditional selection of assorted cured meats, grilled vegetables, olives, artichoke hearts, baby tomatoes and smoked provolone cheese—a very respectable offering. Following, I had the crisp, semolina-crusted calamari, which was served with lemon slices and sundried tomato aioli. The decorative platter heaped the calamari generously and it was very fulfilling. I understand why the most popular appetizer is the Fried Ravioli. It was my favorite too. The ample cheese stuffed raviolis, with marinara, pesto, peccorini and parmesan cheeses and olive oil, were scrumptious. The smooth melted cheese stuffing enveloped by firm raviolis wrapped in a crunchy crust was a tasty contrast of textures. The basil and tomato sauces enhanced the taste profile. For main courses, I had salmon and halibut. Salmon preparations change daily. Mine had herbs and lemon slices stuffed under the skin, adding a nice bite to the fish. Likewise, the fresher than fresh Roasted Halibut was accompanied by a lovely shallot butter sauce, red onions, leeks, tomatoes and flavorful local potatoes, all topped with tissue-thin pieces of fried kale. It was rewarding to eat. Wine lists at these restaurants offer a nice array of predominantly California wines. One can dine very well in Anchorage and Girdwood, and, outside of Anchorage, in a most unlikely remote and rustic setting. Alaska’s sobriquet is "The Last Frontier." It can actually be lived at three wilderness lodges. The palpable truth of Alaska’s pioneering spirit resides conspicuously in a couple, Kirsten and Carl Dixon. They are remarkable. I didn’t know people like the Dixons really existed. Their intriguing story tells of unique qualities—quintessential Alaskans, as tradition holds, full of adventure and true grit, sturdy, steadfast, capable, self-reliant, hard working, and equal to the task. They met at a medical center where Carl worked as an audiologist and Kirsten was a nurse. They married a year later, and Carl left the medical profession to fulfill his desire to start a river-rafting company. Another year went by and their daughter Carly was born. Carl continued exploring Alaska’s rivers and backcountry to find property to expand his wilderness trips. Kirsten continued nursing. "I worked nights in the hospital intensive care unit while Carl traveled extensively," Kirsten says. "Carly spent her days and sometimes nights with people we hardly knew. We began to look for some way to change our lives. Carl discovered a place on a river called Lake Creek. He bought it in July and we moved there in September." About 70 miles from Anchorage, Lake Creek flows into the Yentna River near Riversong Lodge, the Dixon’s first endeavor. Floatplanes and small, flat-bottomed boats are the mode of transportation as there are no roads. When Carl found the property, there was an abandoned one-room cabin on it. "Before we moved, I had never seen Lake Creek, or much of Alaska outside of Anchorage," Kirsten smiles. "With one child and another soon to be born, little money, no experience in wilderness living and no knowledge about the business of running a lodge, we set out to start our new life." The Dixons had to build the lodge and Kirsten had to learn professional cooking. She read magazines and cookbooks and practiced, beginning by helping Carl baking cookies and bread for his river trips. After a time she embraced the idea of being the lodge cook. Meanwhile, Carl searched the forest for suitable building timber; that is, dead trees still standing so as not to deplete the natural environment. He chopped down each tree and skinned off the bark to smooth it into logs. Other logs he planed to make floor or wall boards. This method is how Carl built Riversong Lodge—later on, Winterlake Lodge and Redoubt Bay Lodge. Just as Kirsten was not a professional chef, Carl was not a carpenter or plumber or electrician. They are now. The Dixon’s three wilderness retreats have guests from around the world. Travel and Leisure Magazine named Riversong Lodge one of 25 Best Lodges in America. The two men on the floatplane with me (a 45-minute flight from Anchorage) were from Japan and Florida—both visiting Riversong Lodge for the day to fish. Guests come to the Dixon’s lodges for experiences and adventure, but they also come for Kirsten’s cooking. She has received innumerable awards over the years, including cooking at the James Beard House in New York. She recently moved her cooking school to Winterlake’s larger kitchen and Carl is now adding on a bigger dining room. When Carl isn’t building, fishing, rafting, dogsledding, canoeing, hiking and exploring wildlife with guests, he takes care of his dog sled team. Winterlake Lodge is stop four for the Iditarod March race. Iditarod is the dogsled event that commemorates the 1925 race to deliver diphtheria serum during an outbreak. Held annually, amid unpredictable weather, in deep snow and ice, with many sleepless hours and other challenges, the drivers and dog teams must complete a grueling 1850 km course. Known as "the last great race," it is a test of stamina, skills and concentration that pits mushers and dog teams against some of the harshest conditions on the continent. "Kirsten welcomes and feeds all the mushers and volunteers," Carl says. "We couldn’t do it without their help. They fly in the vets and straw for the dogs’ beds—you can start with up to 16 dogs and must end with at least five. We had 69 mushers last year—10 from foreign countries. Our three cabins always have guests, so we put everyone else anywhere we can in the main lodge and outbuildings—on the floor, in chairs, on tables, under tables—it’s fairly cozy." I met Carl’s dogs and their energy is volcanic. I offered to walk one and once the leash was in my hand I was being dragged off in a run to try to keep up. They have an incredible drive to pull and run. Winterlake is open year-round and Carl offers cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and dog mushing tours. Kirsten teaches cooking classes in the winter. "I like simple preparations and fresh ingredients," Kirsten explains. "I had a root cellar, but a bear broke into it, even after Carl built a formidable spiked wall in front of the door. We’ll try again next year." Kirsten prepared a penne pasta with pine nuts, mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and basil, freshly diced apples and dried cranberries. The fruits added color and a wonderful dimension of flavor and textures as well. She placed lightly browned, sautéed chicken breasts on top the penne and it made a most complete and delicious lunch. And cookies, for dessert—there are always cookies at Kirsten’s table. Dinner featured beef tenderloins on spinach, Alaska red potatoes—sliced and roasted face down, carrots with garden oregano, and a fresh green salad. Kirsten pan-seared the meat, rubbed it with olive oil and salt and pepper and finished it in the oven, served it topped with portobello mushrooms and roasted purple onions. The spinach was sautéed quickly in grapeseed and sesame oil. "I soak salad greens in cold water to hydrate them—plump up their cells," she says. "Then I put them in baggies, press the air out for freshness and store them in the refrigerator. I’m tossing them with grapeseed and walnut oil by hand and in small portions so they’re evenly covered. I use a sharp acid vinegar like cider. I always salt and pepper greens. I like to use different salts from different locations. Sometimes it’s a basic sea salt but for puff pastry I use Fleur de Sel. Tonight I’m adding honeyed, buttered walnuts and buttermilk blue cheese." The dinner was very satisfying and delicious. The Dixons are good company. I took some cookies to munch on the way to my cabin—and of course my can of pepper spray in case I ran into a bear. The morning began with our farewell breakfast of scrambled eggs with shredded basil and cheese on a toasted bagel, venison sausage, muffins, and fresh fruit compote. It was a fulfilling way to begin the day I was to leave Alaska. Sadly, I had to part their good company as well. Kirsten and Carl walked me down to the floatplane. We hugged and I patted the dogs and told all to take care. As the floatplane lifted, I kept waving until the pilot was well over the surrounding marshes inhabited by moose. There they were. The large lumbering males ambled along the grassy wetland—solitary and unbothered, without a human anywhere in sight. What a rare experience. No one should part from this planet without having visited Alaska. Life would be incomplete.
ADDRESSES: PLACES , EVENTS, and ACTIVITIES
KETCHIKAN—INSIDE PASSAGE: Ketchikan Visitors Bureau, 131 Front Street, Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-6166, FAX (907) 225-4250, www.visit-ketchikan.com
WestCoast Cape Fox Lodge, 800 Venetia Way, Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-8001, FAX (907) 225-9286 www.westcoasthotels.com Comfortable lodging and hearty and delicious dining.
George Inlet Lodge, Carstens Jasper and Patricia Shaughnessy, owners; 11728 South Tongass Hwy., Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-6077). FAX (907) 225-0801, info@georgeinletlodge.com www.georgeinetlodge.com Excellent saltwater fishing, simple lodging, delicious food and good company of owners, who also process, pack, and transport the fish that guests catch; for example, fresh steaks or fillets vacuum packed and quick frozen, smoked or canned, to take or ship.
Saxman Native Village, P.O. Box 8558-KVB, Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-846, ext. 310 www.capefoxtours.com Carvers preserve their ancestors’ craft and can be seen sculpting totem poles, canoes, paddles and masks.
The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, P.O. Box 23343, Ketchikan, AK 99901 TEL (888) 320-9049 FAX (907) 247-9050 www.lumberjackshow.com info@lumberjacksports.com Fun and informative viewing of lumberjacks’ historic skills, gift shop
JUNEAU--INSIDE PASSAGE, and gateway to Glacier Bay National Park:
Juneau Convention & Visitors Bureau, 369 S Franklin Street, Suite 203, Juneau, AK 99801, TEL (907) 586-1737, Fax (907) 586-1449 www.traveljuneau.com
Macaulay Salmon Hatchery and Visitors Center, 2697 Channel Drive, Juneau, AK 99801, TEL (907) 463-4810, FAX (907) 463-5614 www.alaska.net/~dipac See hatchery operations and returning salmon traveling up the water ladder to spawn, learn about salmon from guide, see the salt water aquariums and exhibits, shop—an interesting and unique visit.
GUSTAVUS (no road access)—INSIDE PASSAGE, depart from Juneau:
Goldbelt Tour Center, 76 Egan Dr., Juneau, AK 99801, 800/820-2628, TEL (907) 586-8687 www.goldbelttours.com Goldbelt makes reservations to Glacier Bay by ferry or air taxi.
Gustavus Inn, JoAnn and David Lesh, P.O. Box 60, Gustavus, AK 99826, TEL (907) 697-2254 FAX (907) 697-2255 David Lesh’s family-owned inn since 1952. His sourdough rolls are best ever, delicious pancakes and homemade jams (garden grown rhubarb and berries) and the rest of his cooking is equally laudatory.
Bear Track Inn, Jane, John and Mike Olney, proprietors; 255 Rink Creek Road, Gustavus, AK 99820, TEL (907) 697-3017 FAX (907) 697-2284 Beartrac@aol.com www.BearTrackInn.com Attractive and hospitable inn with delicious food.
Alaska Travel Industry Association, Official Alaska State Travel Guide, Dept. 102 P.O. Box 196710, Anchorage, Alaska 99519-6710 www.travelalaska.com For any information on Alaska
ANCHORAGE--SOUTHCENTRAL
Anchorage Convention & Visitors Bureau, 524 W. Fourth Street, Anchorage, AK 99501, TEL (907) 274-3531 FAX (907) 278-5559 www.anchorage.net
Alyeska Prince Hotel and Resort, Seven Glaciers Restaurant—most sophisticated dining in Alaska; excellent cuisine, 1000 Arlberg Road, P.O.Box 249, Girdwood, AK 99587 (907) 754-1111 FAX (907) 754-2290 www.alyeskaresort.com State’s largest ski area, indoor swimming pool, conference center, only AAA four diamond hotel in Alaska, has unique "Northern Lights" wake-up service to view aurora borealis
Risotrante Orso, 5th Avenue and G Street, Anchorage, AK (907) 222-3232 Attractive Italian décor and delicious food, all around pleasant dining experience
Kirsten and Carl Dixon, owners Within The Wild Alaskan Adventure Lodges; Riversong Lodge (best stream fishing) and Winterlake Lodge (Iditarod stop #4) and Redoubt Lodge (wildlife haven); contact: 2463 Cottonwood Street, Anchorage, AK 99508 TEL (907) 274-2710 FAX (907) 277-6256 www.withinthewild.com alaskawild@gci.net The quintessential Alaskan experience with delicious food and warm hospitality
RUST’S Flying Service, Fishing Alaska by Seaplane--Alaska’s Most Experienced Seaplane Service, established 1963; Southshore of Lake Hood, Anchorage International Airport, P.O. Box 190325, Anchorage, AK 99519 (907) 243-1595, 800/544-2299 FAX (907) 248-0552 www.flyrusts.com
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