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The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 47th Edition
February 24, 2002
WINERY OF THE MONTH:
Geyser Peak Winery
was founded in 1880 by a Sonoma County pioneer winemaker, Augustus Quitzow. He constructed
a 20,000-gallon, hillside winery across from Geyser Peak Mountain in 1882.
Subsequently, over the years, Geyser Peak had many owners who produced everything
from brandy to boxed wine. In 1982, the Trione family bought the
winery and 500 acres in the Alexander Valley. By 1989, Geyser Peak had hired
premium winemaker, Australian Daryl Groom, and had become one of the top California
producers. Later winemaker Mick Shroeter joined him. They've made Geyser Peak
one of the most awarded wineries in the world. In the summer of 1998, Trione sold to
Jim Beam Brands Co.
Geyser Peak, one of the most award-winning
wineries in California, has blitzed the competition again--winning 29 medals at
the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition: 9 gold, 11 silver and 9 bronze
medals.
Gold and Best of Class: 2000 Viognier, Block Collection, Alexander Valley,
Sonoma Moment Vineyard
Gold: 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Califoronia
Gold: 2000 Chardonnay Reserve, Alexander Valley
Gold: 2000 Chardonnay, Block Collection, Carneros Sonoma, Ricci Vineyard
Gold: 2001 Riesling, California
Gold: 1999 Merlot, Sonoma County
Gold: 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Block Collection, Alexander Valley, Kuimelis
Vineyard
Gold: 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Sonoma County
Peak Wines International announced that in 2001 Geyser Peak averaged more
points per wine than any other competitior, as reported in California Wine
Winners 2002, The Best of the 2010 Judgings, edited by J.T. Devine.
Geyser Peak Winery was founded in 1880 by a Sonoma County pioneer winemaker,
Augustus Quitzow. He constructed a 20,000-gallon, hillside winery across from
Geyser Peak Mountain in 1882. Subsequently, over the years, Geyser Peak had
many owners who produced everything from brandy to boxed wine. In 1982, the
Trione family bought the winery and 500 acres in the Alexander Valley. By
1989, Geyser Peak had hired premium winemaker, Australian Daryl Groom, and had
become one of the top California producers. Later winemaker Mick Shroeter
joined him. They've made Geyser Peak one of the most awarded wineries in the
world. In the summer of 1998, Trione sold to Jim Beam Brands Co.
Geyser Peak Winery, near Geyserville in the Alexander Valley, produces about 600,000 cases annually. Visitors are welcome 10 to 5 daily, 22281 Chianti Road, Geyserville, California 95441, just off Canyon Road, exit Highway 101. Telephone 800/255-wine.
Geyser Peak reported this wonderful bit of nonsense with the release of its current
Sauvignon Blanc. GEYSER PEAK Public Relations Director Robin Oden
credits Winemaker Mick Schroeter with this detective writing: "This
is the winery--Geyser Peak. I was working the late shift out of the north
cellar. August 10th. My name's Schroeter. I carry a thief. The
summer twilight was beginning to wane. A wind was blowing off the Mayacamas that
night. It was one of those cool, moist winds that come down thorough the valley and
curl your hair, make your skin tingle and adrenaline rush. On nights like that every
grape in the vineyard gets as cool as a lady in pearls. I met up with vineyard
master Mike Stutler. His fedora cast a long shadow. Mike was good. He
knew all the intimate hidden truths of the vineyard. He was a windblown blossom with
sun-tanned skin and a mellow voice of wisdom. We agreed. This was no typical
harvest; strange even. The earliest I had ever seen. The grapes were ready
early. High quality. Small berries. But the big thing was the
flavor. We were harvesting reds and whites. But it was the Sauvignon Blanc
that knocked me on my keister as only true love can. Call me a romantic, but the
first time I laid eyes on that fruit, I knew. I knew it was going to be the start of
something . . . like a dream blonde, alluring and ready to be kissed . . . . " GEYSER
PEAK 2000 Sauvignon Blanc $10: "elegant style, distinct character, classic
gooseberry, grapefruit, diversity of terroir, balanced, clean and crisp"
TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
Various Varietals (prices vary store to store)
ALLIED DOMECQ Wines USA has acquired the import rights to New Zealand's
top wine producer, Montana Wines, and has begun selling its Brancott Vineyards portfolio
in the United States. Founded in 1934, Montana Wines is New Zealand's largest
wine company, farming more than 6,000 acres in two of the premier wine grape regions.
Sold under the Brancott Vineyards label in the United States, they have captured
critical acclaim for world-class Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the
Marlborough and Gisborne regions. Brancott Merlot is also turning heads with
its rich, expressive grapes grown in the South Island region of Marlborough.
The Brancott Vineyards 2000 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc was one of the "Top 100 Wines of
the Year." It was the second consecutive year in which Brancott Vineyards has been
awarded this honor. ALLIED DOMECQ has launched ten redesigned winery websites: www.atlaspeak.com, www.bodegasbalbi.com, www.buenavistawinery.com, www.callawaycoastal.com, www.closdubois.com , www.cockburns-usa.com , www.domecq-usa.com, www.harveys-usa.com, www.marquesdearienzo.com , www.williamhillwinery.com.
WINE INSTITUTE has reported the world wine
statistics. in the world rankings of wine, the U.S. continues to be a major consumer
and producer, although it is 34th in per capita consumption by country. California
accounts for more than 90 percent of the U.S. wine production and vineyard acreage.
According to the latest available statistics (1999), France produces the most
wine (1,591,288 gallons), Italy is second (1,534,173), Spain is third (863,314), and the
United States is fourth (533,961)--followed by Argentina, Germany, Australia, South
Africa, Portugal and Romania--to round out the top ten.
SONOMA COUNTY GRAPE GROWERS ASSOCIATION reported the county wine statistics: SONOMA COUNTY, 52 miles wide, 47 miles long, 190 wineries, 55,877 grape acres in 2000 and valued at $390 million (67% total agriculture) with 16,100 chardonnay, 2,100 sauvignon blanc, 11,000 cabernet sauvignon, 7,600 merlot, 8,600 pinot noir and 5,100 zinfandel.
KORBEL, Official Supporter of the 2002 Olympic Winter Games, reports that Americans will keep the Olympic spirit alive well after the closing ceremony by participating in an online toast to the best moments. Log on to www.usolympicteam.com and toast your favorite 2002 Olympic moment. Immediately following the games, log on and cast your vote for the best moment of the games. Voters over 21 years of age can also register to receive a one-of-a-kind Korbel Olympic collector's pin (supplies are limited).
INNISKILLIN Winemaker Karl Kaiser announced that Canada's INNISKILLIN Estate Vineyards 1999 Riesling Icewine won a gold in the "Best of Sweet, International Wine Challenge 2001" in Burgenland, Austria, especially exciting for the native Austrian.
EDWIN GOTO has been appointed executive chef at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows, Kohala Coast, Rig Island of Hawaii.
RAJVILAS, an Oberoi Hotel in Jaipur, India, has been named a Grand Award Winner of the 23rd annual "Hotels of the Year" competition in the December 2001 edition of Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report. The competition singles out "some of the world's most captivating and truly enchanting hideaway hotels and resorts." Rajvilas is one of the most exotic and colorful destinations in India. Only 71 guest rooms--three romance villas with private swimming pools, 14 luxury air-conditioned tents with teak flooring, and 54 deluxe rooms with sunken marble tubs and four poster beds--arranged on 32 acres of gardens with decorative pools, fountains and a lotus pond with a 250-year-old temple. (Please see related story on the Oberoi Mauritius Spa and Resort below.) www.oberoihotels.com, 1-800-5-OBEROI.
RUTZ CELLARS' Keith Rutz says he is a modern cave man. "My Russian River cave has special climate that remains constant throughout the year with higher humidity than other wine caves. It holds steady at 59 degrees and 95% humidity due to the high water table combined with a dense, clay soil that insulates it."
WINE INSTITUTE reported that the California vintners crushed 3.0 million tons of winegrapes with a $1.8 billion farm gate value--the second largest crush in California. Winegrapes are the third leading agricultural crop in revenues to farmers in California--a state where more than 350 crops are grown.
WINDSOR COURT HOTEL in New Orleans has announced that its award-winning tea salon will henceforth be smoke free. Additionally, in the evening, Le Salon will be open for a glass of champagne, wine and music. www.windsorcourthotel.com 800/262-2662
ROBERT MONDAVI was paid a tribute by Assemblymember Patricia Wiggins, D-Santa Rosa, as "the global emissary of American food and wine" for lifetime achievements on behalf of California wine, food and the arts. The 88-year-old Mondavi was honored in a presentation on the floor of the State Assembly.
KEN VOLK, president/director of winemaking at Wild Horse Winery in Templeton, CA, has been honored as the "Wine Industry Person of the Year" by the Paso Robles Vintners and Growers Association .
NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
PENFOLDS Club Port Tawny: In 1844, the Penfolds planted vines on the slopes of Magill, beside Adelaide, South Australia. The port was excellent and replaced medicine as the family's chief source of income. Dr Christopher Penfold had met Dr Henry Lindeman, who was training in the same London hospital. A sense of adventure encouraged Dr. Penfold and his wife Mary to emigrate. They arrived in the eight-year-old colony and occupied the 500 acres they had previously purchased at Magill, bringing French vine cuttings with them. Dr Penfold made fortified wines for his patients. As the demands grew, he expanded vineyards and production, and the business became a company in 1921. www.penfolds.com
STONE CREEK 1999 Chairman's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $17 is a blended with a small amount of Merlot to give a slightly softer feel without sacrificing its character. A majority of the grapes come from hillside vineyard above St. Helena and Napa which contribute to the full, bold flavors.
KENWOOD has released two single vineyard Merlots. This red varietal remains a favorite among wine consumers. The wine is produced at many price points and typically is consumed while young. Winemaker Mike Lee says these vineyards showcase exceptional characteristics and distinctive fruit flavors from Sonoma Valley terroir. Smooth and luscious, these merlots are finely structured and offer cellar potential.
Roasted Salmon with Fresh Green Lentils and a Pinot Noir
Butter Sauce, Created by: Robert Mondavi Winery Executive Chef Annie Roberts
Serves: 4 for Dinner
Ingredients:
Salmon:
1 1/2 lb. salmon filet without the skin, cut into 4 equal portions
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bunch of arugula
extra virgin olive oil
Lentils:
1/2 lb. French green lentils
1 qt. chicken stock, plus 1 cup for the end of dish
1/4 lb. pancetta, cut into small dice and cooked just until fat renders, drain off the fat
1 1/2 tsp. salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large onion, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs thyme
1/2 head of unpeeled garlic
1 Tbsp. chopped Italian parsley
1/2 tsp. chopped garlic
2 tsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
Pinot Noir Butter Sauce:
1 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. shallots, minced
1 Tbs. garlic, minced
1 cup Pinot Noir
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. butter, softened
Directions:
Lentils:
Combine the lentils with the chicken stock in a large sauce pot. Bring to a boil, lower
heat and simmer. Place half of the onion, carrot, 1 bay leaf, thyme and half of a head of
unpeeled garlic in cheesecloth and tie up. Add this to the lentils and cook for 1/2 hour.
Sauté the remaining carrots and onion in olive oil for about 5 minutes. Add the chopped
parsley. Remove the cheesecloth bundle from the lentils and add the lentils to the onion
and carrot. Cook over low heat and add the pancetta. Add the balsamic vinegar and I cup
chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper and add the chopped garlic.
Pinot Noir Butter Sauce:
In a small sauce pan melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic,
continue cooking until softened. Add the wine and balsamic vinegar and reduce to 1/2 cup.
Add the chicken stock and reduce to 1/2 cup. Whisk in the 1 Tbsp. butter.
Salmon:
Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Arrange the portions on a baking pan and roast in
a preheated 375 oven for about 12 minutes.
To Serve:
Arrange salmon fillets over lentils and spoon sauce over fish. Toss the arugula with extra
olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place a small mound of the tossed arugula next
to the fish.
Suggested wines: Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir or Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir
Reserve
ROBERT MONDAVI Winery reported that the $28
million renovation to the Napa property makes it the most up-to-date winemaking facility
in the country and reflects its passion for research and innovation. It brings a new
direction in its major commitment to oak fermentation (after pioneering the use of
stainless steel fermentation in the 1960s). Winemaker Tim Mondavi says "Oak
fermentation imparts complexity, richness of texture, intensity and depth of color which
is ideal for our reserve and district red wines."
CAIN FIVE 1998, Napa Valley $80: "This wine is five classic varietals blended for suppleness, complexity, depth and a long, elegant finish." It's composed of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec. CAIN produces, big wines that enjoy time in the cellar.
SPICEWOOD VINEYARDS features handcrafted, estate-bottled, medal wining wines. The vineyard and winery are located eight miles east of the intersection of Highways 281 and 71 on Burnet County Road 409--45 minutes from Austin and 75 minutes from San Antonio, Texas. Proprietors Madeleine and Ed Manigold are pleased to welcome you. www.spicewoodvineyards.com
TAYLOR FLADGATE was founded in 1692 and is one of the oldest and most prestigious port wine firms. It's distinctive "4XX" trademark dates back to the early days of the port trade when the name was branded into the first casks exported to England. In 1744, the son of company's founder became the first British wine shipper to purchase a property in the Upper Douro Valley, Portugal--the cornerstone of Taylor's successful acquisitions, including Quinta de Vargellas. TAYLOR FLADGATE and FONSECA is an independent family owned group controlled by its current Chairman Alistair Robertson. He is the fourth generation of his family to carry forward its commitment to the port trade. The principal activity and focus of the group is the production of premium wood aged and vintage Port wines. The company has acquired the port wine interests of CD Vintners, owners of Port producers CROFTand DELAFORCE.
Recommended cheeses: LBV, full flavored, ripened cheese--Gorgonzola and Cabrales; 10 Year Old Tawny, hard, sheep's milk cheeses--Berkswell and Pyrenean; Vintage, blue cow's milk cheese--Stilton, Dorset Blue Vinny.
BERINGERS' FOUNDERS ESTATE 2000 Chardonnay $12: Winemaker Ron Schrieve says, "Because I can choose fruit from California's best growing regions, I have incredible freedom to build a wine in layers, bringing in various aroma and flavor components that complement and play-off each other in interesting ways. This wine has delicious tropical mango, crisp apple and pear flavors with added barrel spice, creaminess and a luscious, dense balanced mouthfeel."
CHEVIOT BRIDGE Wine Company, based in Melbourne, Australia, began three years ago when four vineyard owners decided to produce and market small amounts of wine to showcase the quality of emerging Yea Valley. Now they're bringing the wine to the U.S.A. with a second range of wines, CB from CHEVIOT BRIDGE, and includes Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. The fruit for these wines comes from across South Australia and Victoria.
IRON HORSE has released four 1999 T-bar-T red wines. The IRON HORSE 1999 T-bar-T Cabernet Franc ($26), Joy Sterling says, was the star of our cellar last summer. "We thieved from the barrel so much that it's amazing there was anything left to bottle. It is 100% Cab Franc and only 425 cases were produced. And true for all Iron Horse wines, Forrest's 100% IRON HORSE 1999 T-bar-T Merlot ($26) is highly distinctive, unexpected and perfectly delicious. The IRON HORSE 1999 T-bar-T Cabernet Sauvignon ($32) is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.5% Cabernet Franc and 12.5 Merlot. Amazingly, the IRON HORSE 1999 T-bar-T Benchmark ($56) is the same blend but has a totally different taste and palate profile." All four wines were made in the now standard Iron Horse red wine technique of lightly de-stemming the fruit, cold-soaking the grapes for a week to ten days in tall stainless steel tanks, loaded between layers of dry ice, followed by barrel fermentation, using French and American oak. Additionally, Iron Horse released 750 cases of 1998 Good Luck Cuvee sparkling wine ($24) to celebrate the Chinese New Year's "Year of the Horse." The next edition will be in twelve years for the next Chinese Year of the Horse. www.ironhorsevineyards.com
The OBEROI Mauritius, Paradise
Found--ultimate resort and spa
Mauritius, Paradise Found
Resting like a freckle on the Indian Ocean, the inconspicuous island of Mauritius may have evaded your notice. If that’s the case, celebrate its discovery. The magical island just might be a last escape from the real world.
Mauritius rhymes with delicious, and it is—delighting all the senses. Beauty is everywhere.
Color, in all its true vibrancy, seems to radiate here. Can the intense red of the flame tree really be that bright? Iridescent, almost other-worldly hues of blue from the water to the sky merge and mingle turquoise and sapphire like the jewels they mimic. Yellow and ivory frangipani and the apricot and fuchsia bougainvillea color the island. One place is even named for its color--Chamarel and the Seven-colored Earths. This natural curiosity of volcanic origin results from erosion, disclosing ancient volcanic deposits of seven predominant colors, including ochre, violet and mauve.
Fragrances on a whiff of the wind often precede color, so that the nose literally compels the body to follow. Sugar-cane cuttings give pungency to the air during harvest. Tea grows on the plateau where almost daily rains fill the plantations with odors of fresh greenness. The sun gives the roasted white sand along the beaches a toastiness, and breezes from over the ocean seem to inhale the salt to blow a bit of spiciness into the air.
Shapes also merit notice, inviting the curious to touch trees that grow hollow trunks used for drums. Other trees hide gourds high among their upper branches, challenging future musicians to reach and stretch to make music with them. Some trees bear spices that are typical in Mauritian foods—like cinnamon from the bark of laurels.
More than 1000 indigenous and imported plants are exhibited at the Pamplemousses Botanical Gardens and able guides point out contributions from the colonizing inhabitants over the centuries. The Dutch, French and British all took turns owning Mauritius and brought plants and various peoples to the island. The consequence of this populous infusion is a unique blend of races, cultures and religions. Mauritians have come from Europe, Africa, India and China and they have created a harmonious multiracial society where cultures and traditions flourish. Their peaceful imprints blend creatively and are apparent in the arts, foods, clothing and buildings. The examples are stunningly apparent at a newly opened resort and spa, The Oberoi Mauritius.
The Oberoi has especially incorporated the rich heritage of these cultures in its enchanting design. There are 76 luxurious units on 8 hectares of lush gardens, including 600 meters of beachfront. According to General Manager Wilhelm Luxem, each facet of the property is integrated.
"Our wonderful collage of environments and cultures have been essential to our architecture, landscape and interior design. They're boundless," he says. "Meandering lush landscapes lead to individual quarters, infinity pools, or the beach."
Meandering and lush are understatements for the abundant gardens. Alternanthera, known popularly as purple button bush, and Alternanthera Sicoidea, also called Joseph coat, embroider the ample areas adjacent to walkways, exciting the eyes with pink, lilac, violet and purple. And beyond, as far as one can see, flowers, trees and greenery are profuse everywhere. Oberoi’s Seema Lodi managed the plantings.
"Gardens dramatically contrast the earthy terra-cotta buildings," she says. "A wide range of trees pepper the gardens--creamy frangipani, coconut, palms, and African red-tulip trees—with flowers interspersed among them. All are mixed in a harmonious bouquet."
When the site was excavated, huge boulders were unearthed and some 25,000 cubic meters of boulders form private terraces for guest quarters, walls around pools, and a 12-meter high aqueduct-waterfall that spills fresh-water into a pond. Volcanic boulders and Mauritian sugar-cane thatch roofs complete the indigenous, natural look.
The unrestricted, open-air buildings make sheltered space seem unlimited. There are three bars, a tea pavilion, a health spa, conference facility, boutiques, and my favorite area of interest, two restaurants.
Executive Chef Andrew Skinner joined The Oberoi Mauritius from the Ritz-Carlton in Washington, D.C., awarded "Best New Hotel in North America" for 2000. He also spent several years in Australia and in Bali where he gained knowledge of Indonesian foods.
"We use what is fresh of the best quality," he says. "Our menu offers a little bit of everything for our broad audience. Generally our guests come for a week and they want to try new items each day so we change the menu daily, concentrating on different sauces and garnishes because meats, of course, are more limited. The food is based around chillies, garlic and salsa with French and Indian influence."
An abundant breakfast in the room includes fresh papaya, watermelon, pineapple, honeydew melon and kiwi; fresh fruit juices; cereals; breads and pastries; various styles of eggs with bacon, ham and sausages; pancakes or waffles.
Luncheon beside a fountain-fed infinity swimming pool is as pleasurable as it is delicious. The Mauritian specialty served most often as a beginning course is smoked marlin. The luncheon menu offered Smoked Marlin on Palm Heart and Papaya Tartar with Fresh Herbs. Another local favorite is Creole-style Octopus Salad with Coriander and Red Chilli. Mauritians love hot chillies and some of these dishes can generate a lot of heat. For vegetarians, there was a Grilled Vegetable Pizza with Mushrooms, Fresh Basil, Eggplant, Squash, Carrot, Zucchini and Peppers. Chicken and shrimp dishes, cooked in the tandoor (clay oven), are served with crisp vegetables and various Indian flat breads, also prepared in the tandoor.
Dining in the open-air pavilion restaurant is a unique experience. The comparatively narrow, long, colonnaded room with its high-pitched thatch roof has formal table settings with white linens and candles. The atmosphere is enhanced by the sound of waves rolling to shore and the soft caress of the cool ocean breeze, in all, a stellar dining experience. One evening's first course was Lightly Spiced Wood Mushroom Soup with Glass Noodles and Sesame Wafer. The soup, actually a nicely seasoned beef broth, had sautéed mushrooms placed for the guest to incorporate. Tataki of Yellow Fin Tuna on Mache and Mizuna with Soy Dressing; Roast Rack of Australian Lamb, Pancetta and Roast Garlic Ragout; Oregano and Olive Free-Range Chicken Breast on Roast Peppers, Eggplant and Polenta; Chive and Goat Cheese Soufflé; Mixed Seafood in Saffron Sauce with Glazed Pearl Onions, and Australian Beef Fillet with Proscuitto Waistcoat on Mushroom Ragout were other well-presented selections. The coconut desserts were outstanding.
Chef Skinner and his sous chefs Jean-Philippe and Venu Madhav presented a cooking class one afternoon. Like other elements of the island, Mauritius cuisine is a melting pot and has been adopted and interpreted by the local population over the centuries. The multicultural influences are marked, especially those of India. Chef Madhav explained Indian contributions to Mauritius cooking.
"Sixty percent of the spices used here are adopted from India," Chef Madhav says. "The mix and match of them, however, depends on individual variations. I’m demonstrating Dholl Purri, a thin, soft, lentil stuffed bread that is considered a great delicacy. Every Mauritian meal has some form of this bread."
One basic ingredient is the curry powder made for the curry sauce. For it, Chef Madhav combined equal portions of cardamom, cumin powder, dried chilli, coriander seeds, turmeric, cinnamon powder, clove, mustard seeds, methi, bay leaves, black pepper, fennel seeds. He grilled the spices and then ground them.
Making Dholl Purri is an involved and long process that calls for a number of operations. Once the curry powder is concocted, it is used with other ingredients to make the curry sauce. After the dholl, or lentils, are cooked, the broth is reserved for later use as moist seasoning. Small mounds of the dough are worked with the curry and mashed dholl and the mixture is rolled into flat circles like tortillas or pizza dough to be quickly roasted on an iron disk. The bread is served warm and folded. Diners fill the dholl purri with chicken, rice, condiments and vegetables. It is delicious.
Other popular dishes are Seafood Vindaye, Chicken Curry, and Mazavaroo.
According to Assistant Food and Beverage Director Lindley Thomen, my companion for a day’s culinary tour, the favorite island condiment is rougaille, a tomato-based sauce with chopped onions, spices, herbs, garlic and red chilli. The word is supposed to derive from roux-d’ail—a browned garlic sauce. Mauritians’ home cooking starts with rice and rougaille and other foods are then combined with them--fowl, fish or eggs and served with flat bread.
We dined at La Flore Mauricienne for a typical Mauritian meal. It is touted as the oldest restaurant in the Indian Ocean, established in 1848, and located in Port Louis.
Our first course was a favorite Mauritian snack called samoosa—light sheet pastry filled with vegetables and deep fried, served with smoked marlin and fresh, uncooked thinly sliced marlin served with a condiment that resembled guacamole. I dipped a piece of apalan, a crisp flat bread resembling potato chips, into the bowl for a good amount of the green dip and was about to consume it when Lindley suggested I might prefer to sample a smaller portion. I was so grateful! It was not guacamole but a hefty, extremely hot chilli pepper mixture. My more modest, tiny sample caused my eyes to water and mouth to burn.
"This green chilli paste is a typical Mauritian condiment," Lindley smiles. "If we don’t have hot chilli pastes with every meal, it just doesn’t seem right."
I left the chilli paste for him and he finished the bowl without even a moist glow.
Another Mauritian favorite is salt fish with rougaille. Ours was served with cabbage—called chou chou and unlike any cabbage I’ve eaten--looking more like cooked collards. It was garnished with coconut chutney and a small pickled lemon. The fish is very salty indeed, so be prepared.
Our next course was giant prawns with a lemon-butter sauce whipped with fresh cream. It was excellent. This was followed by chicken and shrimp curry, rougaille, a carrot and cucumber and onion relish and rice. As is the tradition, we mixed items with the rice. It was quite delicious. Dessert was a baked crystallized papaya served with vanilla ice cream. I expected it to be overly sweet, but it was not and I enjoyed it immensely.
La Bonne Marmite is another Port Louis restaurant that concentrates on Mauritian cuisine and has an Indian focus. Tandoori Bonne Marmite is the chef’s selection from the tandoori grill and it featured Sheek kebab and Chicken tikka. Seasoned with the chef’s special blend of spices, the dishes were lovely and made distinctively delicious by his special seasoning. The crisp flat bread made a nice accompaniment. Also enjoyed were the Chicken Supreme with Pistachio Nuts Served with an Almond Flavoured Curry Sauce—smooth and well-integrated flavors. The chicken was moist and the nuts added a good textural dimension. Chef Varen has a creative touch that translates well.
Le Chamarel Restaurant is near the site for Chamarel and Seven-colored Earth. It is one of the most popular restaurants in Mauritius. Try the fresh crab au gratin—it’s superb. The Mauritian Curry Chicken with Rice is just as tempting and very-well flavored. The view from the terrace of mountains, islands and the ocean is outstanding. The restaurant does not advertise and it is always full.
If traveling to Mauritius for business, the place to stay is the well-appointed and attractive 109-room Labourdonnais Hotel in the capital city of Port Louis. Located in the waterfront development called Le Caudan, the handsome hotel has every facility a businessperson expects as well as a swimming pool and health club. It’s outstanding feature, however, is the best Mauritian chef on the island—or any island, I imagine, as his food is that good.
Executive Chef Nizam Peeroo has a rare talent, exquisitely expressed with flawless presentation in the main restaurant, La Rose des Vents. He prepared a dégustation from the main menu for us and I can’t rave enough. Each dish was superb. The first plate included Mille-feuille of Dorado and Smoked Marlin with Nori Prawns à la minute and Salsa of Pommes d’Amour and Leek. Served on a triangular, royal blue plate, each of the three items was arranged in a corner. The dorado was layered with smoked marlin and a creamed herb and cheese mixture. The Carpaccio of Fresh Mushrooms, Grilled Calamari and Eggplant Sauce showed the tender seafood at its best. Stunning is the best explanation of the Braised Heart of Palm with Frothy Crabmeat Rillette and Scallop with Glazed Orange Mousseline Sauce (this dish alone would be worth the trip). Roasted Red Snapper on a Puff Pastry Tart with an Aromatic Tomato Fondue was another immensely successful dish. Roasted Chicken Breast with Fresh Water River Prawns in Rich Creamy Tomato Sauce Enhanced with Local Spices was simply divine. And for dessert, there were two luscious soufflés—guava and passion fruit. Each distinctive dish had an attractive presentation. The harmony among flavors with just the proper balance of seasonings and textures was pure artistry. The repas was truly memorable! It is a privilege to dine at the table of Chef Peeroo.
When not eating, enjoy the Oberoi spa and a multitude of Mauritian water sports.
For total relaxation and pure holiday delight, you need never leave The Oberoi. Spa treatments are the most diverse imaginable. For silky skin, sign up for the Paillasson, a 90-minute indulgence that includes being rubbed with grated coconut. If sunburned, request the soothing yogurt splash—a refreshing creamy lather that cools the sunburn deliciously. The Spice Body Mask uses warming oils and a medley of spices to rejuvenate every pore. And there are many other choices among the spa’s more than 25 treatment selections. There also are spa activities like Hatha Yoga, T’ai Chi, Meditation and a gymnasium. For consultation or suggestions, visit with Spa Manager Alkistis Loukides. She has master degrees in therapy and a gracious manner that is sufficiently soothing in itself.
Located on the northwest, leeward side of Mauritius, the luxurious Oberoi’s relaxing design covets privacy for guests who enjoy spending time in the spacious, well-appointed rooms. One seldom meets others along the various paths around the property until cocktail hour when they gather at the bar pavilion.
There are two infinity swimming pools and a 600-meter beach area that invite all possibilities: swimming, snorkeling, sailing, scuba diving, water skiing, parasailing, fishing, and walking under water. This last water phenomenon is the only such operation in the world. One is transported to a reef and onto the supply boat where the instructor informs and outfits the guest. Fitted with a weighted belt and solar-powered, waterproof headgear, the guest descends a ladder from the back of the boat accompanied by two divers and a guide. Together, we walked along the reef and among the fishes on the floor of the lagoon—a perfect choice for those who do not want to scuba dive.
This floating island garden of 1,865 square kilometres justifies all the praise ever lavished on the most romantic of tropical paradises. Whether enjoying the ultimate holiday at the Oberoi or conducting business from the Labourdonnais Hotel in Port Louis, Mauritius is a haven of courtesy and comfort. Indeed, perhaps its nonpareil feature is the service. The staffs are the most agreeable and courteous I have ever encountered.
Mauritius is paradise found.
For pure holiday pleasure and indescribable beauty: The Oberoi Mauritius Resort and Spa, Baie aux Tortues, Pointe Aux Piments, Mauritius, Reservations@oberoi.intnet.mu , www.lhw.com/oberoimaur tel: (230) 204-3600 fax: (230) 204-3625
Excellent and best business hotel with superb cuisine: Labourdonnais HotelCaudan Waterfront, La Rose des Vents Restaurant, P.O. Box 91, Port Louis, Mauritius – Ile Maurice, lwh@intnet.mu
, www.labourdonnais.com tel: (230) 202-4000 fax: (203) 202-4040Sights and Food: Pamplemousses Gardens; Port Louis--capital city, Caudan Waterfront; Chamarel Seven-colored Earths, Terre de Couleurs; Tamarind Falls, Chamarel; Bois Cheri--the tea plantation; Le Chamarel Restaurant, Chamarel--beautiful view with delicious food
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