The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  46th Edition
January 30, 2002

 

Winery of the Month, Signorello: SIGNORELLO VINEYARDS produces limited amounts of selected varietals.  These are lovingly crafted wines that receive special attention and deserve it.  Ray Signorello Jr. says that for the just-released   1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, "Our estate program follows traditional French winemaking practices.  Native yeasts induce fermentation.  Techniques include the use of extended maceration (each lot averaged 35 days on the grape skins) and frequent pumping-over (three to four times a day).  The 1999 vintage aged for 22 months in 50% new Troncais, Nevers and Alliers oak (thin staved, medium plus toast Chateau Ferre barrels).  Tonnelleries: 70% Seguin Moreau and 30% Radoux barrels wee topped monthly and racked every four to six months and was unfiltered to preserve fruit intensity and body."  I think that's enough hand crafting of the wine to suit most folks.   Only 2,471 cases were produced, $48 a bottle (75% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot, 8% cabernet franc).  The grapes came from vineyards planted (densely, 1240 vines per acre) in 1990 on hillsides east of Napa's Silverado Trail.  Complexity comes from a variety of exposures for the grapes and soils with excellent drainage.  Crop levels and growth were carefully monitored for balance and intensity.  "The reticent nose opens with black currant, vanilla and hints of cedar.  The full-bodied palate continues with flavors of ripe cassis, vanilla and hints of tobacco.  The long, intense finish is accentuated by the young velvety tannins."   SIGNORELLO VINEYARDS also released two of its stellar white wines: SETA and the ESTATE CHARDONNAY.     Ray says the 2000 Napa Valley growing season was cool and even throughout, except for a three-day heat stretch of unusually high temperatures in June and ominous rain clouds in late August, leading to a compact harvesting period. As a result, "we were picking in August all the way to mid October," He says. " The mild, even summer weather allowed for slow, steady ripening, promoting good flavors early in the season. The grapes were very clean with good balance between acidity and sugar. It looks like another excellent vintage. Yields averaged 3.25 tons/acre in 2000."

Top Picks for Valentine's Day: Port and Late Harvest wines are great with chocolate. (prices vary store to store)

PORT

LATE HARVEST WINES: Equally as delightful with a box of chocolates are these luscious, heavenly sweet wines.

SPARKLING WINE: KORBEL asked Americans for their Valentine Day thoughts and found men and women's expectations differ: 55% of men want to celebrate with dinner at a restaurant but 43% of women prefer to stay home; 54% of men prefer chocolate and champagne as gifts while 53% of women  want perfume; 18% of men and 9% of women will spend more cash than last year on the occasion.  In any event, you can hardly go wrong by sharing KORBEL and the producer believes Korbel Blanc de Noirs, Methodes Champenoise, in pale peach would be peachy.  It is 100% pinot noir grapes.


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NEWS

Current issue of Country Lifestyle features Sarah Jane's article on Port.  Look for her additional articles in each issue--she's the food and wine editor but writes other features as well.

QUARTERLY POCKETLIST, Top-Rated Wines is a useful guide (published four times a year, $7 each issue) for selecting good wine at reasonable prices.   The convenient booklet of 35 pages is 4 X 6 inches and lists 400 wines with the best $10, best $15 wines, whites, reds and sparkling ands more expensive recommended wines that are widely available.   Contact John Vankat, editor, 800/524-1005

ALLIED DOMENQ reported news about its various properties.   CLOS DU BOIS is constructing two new buildings at the winery, new administrative offices and a culinary center.  The center will be open next summer and features an educational kitchen and a dining room that holds 100 persons.  It will host celebrity chefs.  There's a spectacular calendar with photography by expert cameraman George Rose for $14 in the tasting room (call 800/222-3189).  Spokesman George Rose says Clos du Bois is America's best-selling producer of Sonoma County wines.  CALLAWAY COASTAL WINERY is offering a 12-page, free brochure of recipes and ideas on entertaining.   call: 800/472-2377  BUENA VISTA WINERY is now an Allied Domenq property.   CHAMPAGNE MUMM is celebrating its 125th anniversary with special events.   WILLIAM HILL WINERY has completed a major replanting and re-grating program of its 147-acre Silverado Bench estate vineyard.  Cabernet Sauvignon was increased.   COCKBURN'S PORT  has award-winning recipes available on its web site www.allieddomenqwines.com  1998 weather in the Douro Valley produced a crop reduction.  The Quinta dos Canais, located in the heart of Upper Douro, produced a limited amount of outstanding Port.   "Quinta" is an estate and "Canais" means canals.  The vineyards f Canais have been the backbone of COCKBURN'S for more than 100 years.    It is renowned for its consistently high quality.   It is bottled after two years in oak and throws a sediment so should be decanted.

THE HESS COLLECTION announced that it installed grape sorting tables at its crush pad to refine fruit selection.  Hand selection starts in the vineyard. Once at the  winery, a vibrating belt settles the grapes into a single layer and the clusters are hand selected a second time.  And then the winemaking process continues.

ENJOY! Great-tasting, Good-for-you Recipes is a publication from the American Heart Association produced expressly for The Walnut Marketing Board by Clarkson Potter/Publishers.  It reports that walnuts are amazingly healthy.  In the 16th and 17th centuries, the medical profession* adopted the "Doctrine of Signatures," which stated that various plants were effective as herbal medicine cures due to their resemblence to a particular body part.   Depending on the cut, walnuts resemble the brain or the heart.  Today, scientific research has proven a handful of walnuts a day can reduce the risk of heart disease and help with the proper functioning of the brain and nervous system.     Information: 800/758-2100, www.walnuts.org    *The Bubonic and Pneumonic Plagues (Black Death) moved across Europe (14th to 17th Centuries) to forever change medical practices. In medieval times, the medical profession consisted of Physicians, Surgeons and Barbers. (There were also three general groupings of pharmaceutical workers: Apothecary, Herbalist, and Hedge Witch.)   By the beginning of the 15th Century, most physicians and many  surgeons were dead.   Consequently, barbers occupied the most populous guilds and the few remaining surgeons reluctantly joined them to combine resources and power. 


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NEW RELEASES (quotes are winemakers' comments)

CHALONE WINE GROUP has released several of its products. 

VALLEY OF THE MOON 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon $20, "focused balance of fruity and aromatic flavors followed by firm, yet subtle tannins, layers of black currants, dried cherries, seasoned oak"

ROBERT MONDAVI joint venture with Eduardo Chadwick of Vina Errazuriz offers its newsest releases, which include the Caliterra wines.  Most of the grapes for CALITERRA wines are sourced from the Valle Central in the Maipo, Rapel and Curico valleys of Chile.    The 2000 harvest was delayed by lower than average temperatures, while the 2001 vintage was one of the longest in recent history, beginning in February and ending in mid-May.

ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 1998 CYRUS Estate $50, is the fourth vintage of CYRUS, a proprietary red wine blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec from the Wetzel Family Estate.   Hank Wetzel says "CYRUS is ultimate expression of our estate grown grapes and the renowned Alexander Valley appellation.  We've grown grapes here since 1963 and made wines since 197.   CYRUS is our tribute to 28 years of fine winemaking."

KING ESTATE is offering a recipe  to pair with its current releases of the KING ESTATE 1998 Chardonnay and Reserve Chardonnay.   It is from the KING ESTATE  PINOT GRIS COOKBOOK.  1998 HARVEST note: "The extended cold wet spring in 1998 reduced the number of pollinated flowers significantly, and thus, yields were down 30-50% statewide. A warm, dry summer growing season led to a normal canopy growth. With a reduction in clusters coupled with a normal canopy growth, the remaining fruit possessed intense aromas and flavors. The weather during harvest was sunny
and dry with small amounts of intermittent rainfall."
King Estate Winery, Eugene, Oregon
Although a native of Texas, Stephanie grew up living and travelling around the world. Her father was a career Air Force pilot who was stationed in Japan, Europe and North Africa, as well as in many regions of the United States. Her parents, both enthusiastic cooks and cultural explorers, engendered in her a love and appreciation for diverse culinary traditions.
Stephanie's formal education was in English literature and French cultural history, with degrees from the University of Oregon and the Sorbonne. As a graduate student in comparative literature, she took her first restaurant job to help pay for educational expenses, and it was there she discovered her real passion. Her life-long interest in cooking evolved into a mitier. Using a well-worn copy of Julia Child's The French Chef, and inspired by Ms. Child's "you can do this too" attitude, she taught herself French technique by mastering the recipes in the book. In 1972, she opened the Excelsior Cafi in Eugene, Oregon, pioneering a Northwest culinary movement with the use of seasonal menus that celebrated the bounty of the region. The restaurant was also the first in Oregon to feature the wines of the young Oregon wine industry. During her tenure there as chef/owner, the Excelsior Cafi was featured in Cook's Magazine, Food & Wine, Gourmet, Travel and Leisure, Bon Appetite, Sunset, Nation's Restaurant News and many other national, regional and local publications.
After selling the restaurant in the spring of 1993, Stephanie took an extended trip to France to explore regional markets and vineyards. In September of 1993 she joined the team at King Estate as culinary director. Her responsibilities include preparing meals for guests; research, recipe testing, and writing the Pinot Gris cookbook; supervising the planning and implementation of a full-scale hospitality program; working with the nursery manager and gardeners on planning and planting the organic vegetable and flower garden, berry patches and orchards; and the development of a line of King Estate food products.
Salmon-Corn Cakes with Lemon A•oli and Tomato, Corn and Basil Salsa, Serves Four
Ingredients:
1-1/2 cups dry white wine
1-1/2 cups water
10 black peppercorns
2-inch strip lemon peel
2 sprigs parsley
1 pound salmon filet
1/2 cup green onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup red bell pepper, finely diced
1/2 cup celery, finely diced
1 cup corn kernels, freshly shucked and blanched for 2 minutes in boiling water and drained
2 tablespoons fresh basil, finely chopped
2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
3/4 cup good quality mayonnaise (homemade or Best Foods/Hellman's)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs, plus bread crumbs for coating (about 1-1/2 cups total)
2 to 4 tablespoons olive oil for sautiing
Bring wine, water, peppercorns, lemon peel and parsley to a simmer in a large sauti pan. Add salmon, bring back to a simmer and poach  8 to 10 minutes, or until just cooked through. Remove salmon with a slotted spatula and set aside to cool.
When cool, flake salmon into a mixing bowl, discarding any skin or bones. Add the green onions, red bell pepper, celery, corn, basil and parsley and gently combine. In a separate bowl, mix the mayonnaise, mustard and Tabasco. Fold into the salmon mixture, then salt and pepper to taste. Add the egg and 1/4-cup bread crumbs and mix to combine.
Form into 12 patties. Coat the patties with the remaining bread crumbs and set aside, refrigerated, until ready to sauti. (This can be done up to 2 hours ahead.)
Put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a sauti pan over medium heat. Taking care not to crowd, cook salmon-corn cakes in a single layer until golden brown, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Continue until all the cakes are done, adding more olive oil to the pan if needed. Serve with Lemon A•oli and Tomato, Corn and Basil Salsa as accompaniments.
LEMON A•oli
Ingredients, List two
Large pinch salt
3 medium cloves garlic, peeled
1-1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 large egg yolk, room temperature
1 cup olive oil
In a food processor, pulse salt, garlic, lemon juice and zest until smooth. Add egg yolk and pulse briefly to combine. With machine running, add olive oil in a thin drizzle until incorporated. If too thick, thin with a little hot water. Makes about 1 cup.
TOMATO, CORN and BASIL Salsa
2 tomatoes, seeded and diced
1/2 red onion, chopped
1 cup corn kernels, freshly shucked and blanched
1-1/2 teaspoons garlic, minced
1 teaspoon lemon juice
12 large leaves basil, cut in fine chiffonade
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients and toss lightly. This should be assembled as close to serving time as possible.

Recipes from St. Supery to enjoy with the Meritage wines

Cucumber Raita,  Pair with St. Supiry Meritage White
       Raitas are soothing, yogurt-based side dishes that are fast and easy to prepare. The cool yogurt and mild
flavored cucumbers go especially well with spicy Indian dishes.
1 cup plain yogurt
2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded
1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
     Place yogurt in a mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth and let drain for 20 minutes. Slice cucumber thinly. Place in colander with salt and let sit 10 - 15 minutes. Press on cucumbers to release excess liquid. Rinse and drain. Combine yogurt, cucumbers and mint and mix well. Add salt, pepper or other spices like cumin if desired.   Makes 4 servings.

Grilled Salmon with Sun-dried Tomato Compote, Pair with St. Supiry Meritage Red
Salmon. . . with red wine? You better believe it. St.Supiry's Red Meritage is so evenly balanced that it doesn't compete with the unique and somewhat delicate flavor of salmon. The herbs and flavorings in the compote add additional flavor levels and blend quite harmoniously with both the fish and the wine.

1 cup St. Supiry Red Meritage
2 ounces dry sun-dried tomatoes
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons small diced onion
2 cups diced tomatoes (fresh better, but canned works)
1/4 cup pitted, chopped Kalamata olives
2 teaspoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 (4-ounce) salmon filets

In a small pot, boil the wine along with 1 cup of water, add the sun-dried tomatoes and remove from heat. Let tomatoes reconstitute for about 5 minutes, until softened. Drain tomatoes, reserving liquid, and chop into medium dice. In a medium pot, combine sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, onion, fresh tomatoes, olives, tomato paste, rosemary, salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat until well blended and aromatic. Use reserved wine if needed to keep moist. Pulse briefly in food processor to combine well. Set aside and keep warm. Heat a grill to very hot. Make sure the rack is clean. Spray grill with a non-stick cooking spray and place salmon on grill. When salmon is marked on one side turn salmon on grill and continue cooking. Or remove salmon from grill, place on baking sheet, grill marks up, and finish cooking in a 350:F oven until fish is done, about 5 minutes. Serve 1 filet per person and top with compote. The compote can be served at room temperature or may be heated slightly if desired.  Makes 4 servings.


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) 2000 Sarah Jane English
Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com
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