The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  44th Edition
November 10, 2001

 

Winery Feature of the Month, Beringer: Winery Feature of the Month, Beringer: I visited Beringer's 125th anniversary celebration and Ed Sbragia's 25th winemaking year. Both occasions deserve celebrating. Ed says the time has flown since he began making wines with Myron Nightingale in 1976. "His voice is still fresh, 'To thine own self be true . . . ' Myron told me, which meant, to make great wine you must make wine you like; that is, the wine that makes you happy and hungry," Ed said. "While I learned winemaking from Myron, I learned so much more--about life and people. He and my dad, who first taught me winemaking, were incredible mentors." Beringer has quite a history too. It dates to the 18 70 s when brothers Jacob and Frederick Beringer established the firm. The winery has never closed since it opened in 1876--by making sacramental wines during Prohibition. The brothers emigrated from Germany to the East Coast where Jacob was cellarmaster for a New York winery and Frederick produced malt for breweries and distilleries. They saved their money until Jacob could travel to Napa in 1869, reportedly a burgeoning wine-producing region. He was hired by Charles Krug, another pioneering German in Napa, and worked for six years until he found the perfect property to start his own winery. With financial help from his brother Frederick, Jacob purchased a 215-acre property on the west side of St. Helena.        The land had inducements, including a steep hill that promised caves for aging wine. The following year Chinese workmen began carving the tunnels that became storage cellars still used today. Jacob lived in an 1848 farm house while building the winery. Called Hudson House, it has been renovated and serves as the Beringer Vineyards Culinary Arts Center. A few years later, Frederick moved to Napa and built his 1883 mansion, called Rhine House after his home in Germany, which is Beringer's hospitality center. Nestle bought Beringer in 1971, built a new winemaking facility and acquired additional vineyard property, bringing Beringer 's land holdings to 2,800 acres. Nestle and subsequent owners, Texas Pacific Group, purchased several
sister wineries (Chateau Souverain, Chateau St. Jean, Meridian Vineyards, Stags' Leap Winery and St. Clement.) and named the
parent company Beringer Wine Estates (BWE) . Also in the portfolio was an assortment of premium brands from Italy, France and Chile. In 2000, Beringer Wine Estates was purchased by Foster's Group of Australia and merged with their wine arm, Mildara Blass, to become Beringer Blass Wine Estates (BBWE ). Since the merger, BBWE has built its own cooperage to ensure the supply of quality barrels and purchased the highly regarded Etude brand known for delicious Pinot Noirs.     With age comes change, but the   qualities that made Beringer Vineyards a contributor to the Napa Valley as a highly regarded wine-growing regions still remain: a dedication to quality from the vineyard to your table.

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)

Varietal: Merlot

DESSERT WINE nonpareil is the newly released KING ESTATE   2000 Pinot Gris - Vin glace (also known as Ice Wine) $18/375ml.  It's the stuff of dreams!

Sparkling Wines: while I indicate one wine, any selection among these producers is delicious

 


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NEWS

THE GLOBAL ENCYCLOPEDIA OF WINE, offered by The Wine Appreciation Guild, is a work that is stunning in scope. The tome touches on every wine-producing region on earth, something not done before.  The book include the accidental discovery of wine in Europe, goes into the vineyards of old missions of the New World, and into the sterile world of the laboratory.  Editor Peter Forrestal convinced 36 of the world's best wine minds to pick up their collective pens and  put the wine world down on paper.  GLOBAL is a massive (913 pages)  accomplishment and a most comprehensive and fascinating experience.  It is "benchmark publication in the world of wine" and "essential reading for wine enthusiasts."  Conveniently, it includes an interactive CD ROM disk, both brimming with photographs.  $75 at leading bookstores.  (800) 231-9463, FAX (650) 866-3515 or Bryan@wineappreciation.com   ISNB# 1-891267-38-8.

ALAMOSA WINE CELLARS owners Jim and Karen Johnson have released the 2000 El Guapo, a Tempranillo, only 250 cases. It is a big, bold red with blueberry predominant.    Karen says thanks to the Texas Legislature, we will be able to sell wine at our winery.  "Our harvest was a boomer this year, as was the whole of the Hill Country. I think we have the best Viognier fruit we have ever had and the Syrah will be stunning. We have a nice crop of Sangiovese, the last of which was picked on September 22. Can you believe that??? We are especially excited about our Tempranillo crop...about 11 tons of it. But the most fun is the 25 gallons of Malvasia Bianca that Jim and I hand pressed. Jim will make it about 8% rs and it should be wonderful. We purchased some interesting fruit this year as well: Primativo, Tinta Madiera, Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache and Sangiovese from other vineyards. Isn't that exciting?

2 DINE 4 is the name of Stephen Shallcross' catering company that just received the Chronicle's "Best Catering"-- tied with Word of Mouth.   I had the pleasure of meeting the owner when he catered a reception for Governor Rick Perry.  He insisted, although it took little encouragement, that I taste all the hors d'oeuvres.  Among my favorites were the apple-smoked pork topped with smoked Gouda on homemade brioche roll, a pizza on thin crust with pancetta, cherry chutney, and crumbled gorgonzola and  port infused figs and blue cheese with candied walnuts on a crispy wafer.  512/658-8719, www.2dine4.com

CALIFORNIA WINE WINNERS 2002 has been published.  This handy guide is a report of all the medals awarded to California wines in the 2001 round of wine judgings.  The book covers the 23 most popular varieties and blends as judged by nine important wine competitions.  It is a convenient quick perusal to help consumers make selections.  Contact: Varietal Fair, P.O. Box 432, Graton, CA 95444, phone or fax 707/823-8795, J.T. Devine, editor.  devine@sonic.net

COPIA: The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts received a $250,000 gift from Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates. COPIA, the world's leading cultural center dedicated to the discovery, understanding and celebration of wine, food and the arts, opened in downtown Napa on November 18, 2001.    Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates gift is the most recent one toward COPIA's $55 million capital campaign.     A large portion  was designated to the red wine garden, which will be named the Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates Red Wine Garden. The garden bed represents grape growing, wine production, and provides physical references of the flavors and aromas found in wine.     The garden of fruits, flowers, herbs and vegetables represent the flavors and aromas found in red wine varieties--cherries, berries, tomatoes, bell pepper, and olives--and the foods that complement or are affinities of red wine.   It
echoes a similar Wine Sensory Garden at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Center in Sonoma County.   Garden at Copia.

RESTAURANT AUGUST recently opened in New Orleans with acclaimed native son Chef John Besh.  He defined his contemporary French cuisine by classical techniques he learned at the CIA, in apprenticeships in Germany and France and from Creole influences.  He's a Food & wine "Top Ten Best New Chef in America," and ranked by New Orleans Magazine as "Best New Chef," etc.  Contact: simonpr@aol.com

WINDSOR COURT was named the Number Two Hotel in America by Conde Nast Traveler Magazine.  Windsor Court's GRILL ROOM was ranked the Number Three restaurant in America by Travel and Leisure Magazine.

ST. FRANCIS VINEYARDS Winemaker Tom Mackey was named "Red Winemaker of the Year" at the 2001 International Wine Challenge awards dinner in London, receiving the "Best Zinfandel" trophy and awards for four out of ten gold medals given to California wines in the competition. www.stfranciswine.com

TRINCHERO 1997 Founder's Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was the most-awarded cabernet of the 2001 wine competition season.

RODNEY STRONG 1997 Symmetry took the Sweepstakes Award (top honors) for red wine at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair Wine Competition. www.rodneystrong.com

STERLING VINEYARDS announced the reopening of its famous hilltop tasting room after a year of being closed from renovations and the release of the STERLING 1999 Napa Valley Merlot $22--black fruit perfume, leather and spicy vanilla, ripe and jammy plum, chewy, elegant tannins. www.sterlingvineyards.com

MAISON MARQUES & DOMAINES has expanded its portfolio to include DOMINUS and NAPANOOK wines.

THE HESS COLLECTION released its new label--HESS ESTATE, a Napa Cabernet ($20) in addition to THE HESS COLLECTION Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) and mid-priced between it and HESS SELECT ($14).  The new wine begins with the stellar 1997 vintage.  Winemaker Dave Guffy calls it "yummy."

KORBEL offers "Uncork a Holiday Celebration," a brochure with ideas to make your winter holidays sparkle.  www.korbel.com

ROBERT MONDAVI  was named one of Forbes "200 Best Small Companies in America."

ROEDERER ESTATES,  Anderson Valley, a remarkable sparkling wine facility in Mendocino county, has just completed major renovations to the winery's tasting room.  Tasting the wines and seeing this beautiful facility is worth the drive.

 

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NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

Bonny Doon owner Randall Grahm is a bright and witty man who really knows how to turn a phrase.  In his letter sent with these wines, he partially wrote: ". . . in spring/summer a young winemaker/marketer's heart turns to the dispersal of the impeccable products that he/she has been putting in the bottle on those drear, Ingmar Bergman-like winter days. . . You probably secretly feel like a styrofoam-shipper ecological war criminal (I do) for tacitly countenancing the uncontrolled proliferation of same.  Bonny Doon  wines were featured at one of my tasting groups and most applauded among the selections were:

SEBASTOPOL VINEYARDS - DUTTON ESTATE WINERY is the culmination of ten generations of Sonoma County agriculture.  "The Dutton family is committed to quality and self-sufficiency," Dutton tells me, "in handcrafting ultra-premium wines exclusively from our family's finest vineyards at Dutton Ranch.  Our commitment and passion guides our philosophy towards winemaking to achieve the finest wines Dutton Ranch can produce and Sebastopol Vineyards makes wines solely from the fruit grown on our family's vineyards." www.sebastopolvineyards.com

R.H.PHILLIPS reports that "Red wines continue their unwavering popularity with Infoscan numbers showing sales for reds up 3.6% over the last 52 weeks (ending June 2001).  It's gratifying to see all those old Petite Sirah and Zin vines being utilized instead of replanted to the next fad.  Both grapes love warm growing sites, which Dunnnigan Hills has.  Some vines for the KEMPTON CLARK MAD (multiple appellation designate) Zinfandel were planted by Clarke himself."

ROBERT CRAIG WINE CELLARS, located in the rugged mountain range east of St. Helena, has a new winery in the Howell Mountain  Appellation--to be completed by mid-2002.  The prized region is renown for growing cabernet sauvignon.

HANDLEY CELLARS owner/winemaker says she planted new sauvignon blanc in her Handley Vineyards in Sonoma County in 1998 and the 2000 vintage is the first from these young vines--available in extremely limited quantities.  Also, "Winemaking is art and science and this release of my Pinot Noir exemplifies the best of both." www.handleycellars.com

THE HESS COLLECTION released its new label--HESS ESTATE, a Napa Cabernet ($20) in addition to THE HESS COLLECTION Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) and mid-priced between it and HESS SELECT ($14).  The new wine begins with the stellar 1997 vintage.  Winemaker Dave Guffy calls it "yummy."

BEL ARBOR VINEYARDS is one of America's best-valued wines-- soft, drinkable, good varietal character and fruit forward style.  That's a lot for $6!

ECCO DOMANI, which means "here's tomorrow" is a lighter, fresher wine for Italy's innovative cuisine.  They're are easy to drink, well-balanced wines concentrating on the best qualities of the fruit rather than winemaker influences.  The Chianti is ECCO DOMANI's first.   ECCO DOMANI 2000 Chianti $10: "dry yet balanced, fresh and fruity, 100% sangiovese, finesse and appropriate for any occasion"

KING ESTATE's leading white wine is Pinot Gris with 55% of total wine production dedicated to this intense, complex varietal.  2000 experienced excellent growing conditions throughout the spring, summer and fall.   As fall began, cool evening temperatures allowed the fruit and vines to concentrate on color and seed maturation, while warm, sunny days encouraged intense fruit development.  At harvest, grapes were clean, dry and disease-free.

                                   

LAKE SONOMA WINERY 1999 Dry Creek Zinfandel $15: "spice and pepper, succulent, intense aromas of cherries and blackberries, well structured"

MERIDIAN 2000 Sauvignon Blanc $8: "forward flavors of melon and lemon, whiff of just cut grass, refreshing acidity, lively yet soft, melon, apricot   and grapefruit,a great food wine and not overwhelmed with vegetal character"

BEAULIEU VINEYARD fall releases represent some of the producer's best values and wines.  The 1998s represent the flagship cabernet-based wines: TAPESTRY   Reserve and GEORGES de LATOUR Private Reserve--among the "best balanced, most elegant examples of their type."  

STIMSON LANE Vineyards & Estates produces and markets premium wines from vineyards around the world.  The commitment is to craft wines of distinction and quality.   Stimson Lane was established in 1986 to accommodate a growing portfolio, but its first wineries  date back to just after the repeal of prohibition.   Ste. Michelle, first introduced in 1967, has expanded its vineyards to more than 4,200 acres in Washington and California.  Additionally, Stimson Lane today includes COLUMBIA CREST, DOMAINE Ste. MICHELLE, SNOQUALMIE, COL SOLARE, NorthStar, VILLA Mt. EDEN, CONN CREEK, COLOR VOLANTand MARTINEZ ports.

SNOQUALMIE VINEYARDS has made reasonably-priced wines that became some of my favorites since its first bottles.  It continues to do so.

COLUMBIA CREST Winemaker Doug Gore says winemaking is a feeling not a formula.  He does an incredible job and gives the public delicious wines at great value.

PEPI WINERY:  Among Italian-style wines in California, Pepi Winery of Napa Valley won more medals in major state competitions this year than any other winemaker in the Cal-Italia segment.  Pepi won a host of medals for four wines to make it a leader in the emerging Cal-Italia category, according to results published in the California Wine Winners guidebook. 

YANGARRA PARK (pronounced yan-garra, means earth), the newest member of the Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates Collection, delivers all the spirited flavors of Australia's premier vineyards.

NEW SAT. NOON

SIGNORELLO VINEYARDS has released two of its stellar wines: SETA and the ESTATE CHARDONNAY.   Ray Signorello says the 2000 Napa Valley growing season was a cool, even growing season throughout, except for a three-day heat stretch of unusually high temperatures in June and ominous rain clouds in late August, leading to a compact harvesting period.   As a result, "we were picking in August all the way to mid October," He says.  " The mild, even summer weather allowed for slow, steady ripening, promoting good flavors early in the season.  The grapes were very clean with good balance between acidity and sugar.   It looks like another excellent vintage.  Yields averaged 3.25 tons/acre in 2000."

DELICATO  was awarded "Best USA Wine Producer" by England's International Wine & Spirit Competition.

McDOWELL VALLEY VINEYARDS specializes in Rhône varietals.  The Crawford family has been growing grapes in the AVA McDowell Valley since 1970, farming 360 acres.  When I visited the vineyards, Bill Crawford told me they opened their winery in 1979 and made wines  with George Bursick (now winemaker at Ferrari-Carano) as their first winemaker.  "George saw something different in an old block of petite sirah planted on the Gibson Ranch in 1919 and budded onto St. George rootstock in 1948.  We sent off samples to Dr. Lucy Morton--viticultural consultant and amphellographer,  and she identified it as syrah.  Now that we knew what was in our original block, we began to bottle Syrah, and we were among the first wineries in California to produce this wonderful varietal," he said.   There is more, much more, to Bill's history and story telling--something he does extremely well, but for now just enoy his delicious wines.

CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Steve Reeder announced the end of crush with the delivery of the last load of cabernet franc on October 15.   Now he's sending out some holiday releases--CHATEAU ST. JEAN Chardonnay and CHATEAU ST. JEAN Pinot Noir, both wonderful pairing for his holiday meals.  "Pinot Noir is the grape that must be grown in the right place," he says.  "The best regions in Sonoma County are the very cool Carneros and Russian River Valley appellations.   That's where our grapes come from.   And we've been famous for the quality of our Chardonnay for a long time.  Enjoy!"

FOLIE à DEUX WINERY, begun by two psychiatrists who chose Rorschach-like dancers for their symbol, was sold in 1995 to a small group of wine enthusiasts that included Dr. Richard Peterson.   Winemaker Scott Harvey--a 1990 "Ten Best Winemakers in America" joined the team in 1996--a specialist in the soils of Amador County.   FOLIE à DEUX now produces a line of Amador County wines. www.folieadeux.com 800/473-4454

 


© 2001 Sarah Jane English
Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com
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