The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 43rd Edition
September 26, 2001
PROFILE: Dr. Thomas Fogarty
THOMAS FOGARTY, internationally recognized heart surgeon, inventor, winery owner, Stanford professor and entrepreneur, has been inducted into the National Inventors Hall of Fame (NIHF) for his 1969 patent of the embolectomy catheter. Inserted into an artery, inflated, and then withdrawn to remove blood clots, the Fogarty® Balloon Embolectomy Catheter represented the first "less-invasive" medical technology, making operations safer, less traumatic and often less expensive. "Dr. Fogarty's long, productive career provides an inspirational example to all of us who value creativity," says David Fink, president and CEO of NIHF. "He deserves great credit for creating breakthrough techniques used every day in operating suites around the world." Some of NIHF's notable other members include Alexander Graham Bell, Luther Burbank, George Washington Carver, Walt Disney, Henry Ford, Louis Pasteur, Steve Wozniak and the Wright Brothers. With the $500,000. Lemelson-MIT prize (largest single cash award for invention and innovation) Dr. Fogarty received in 2000, he established The Fogarty Medical Foundation, an organization that presents grants to young doctors with the passion for creating similar less-invasive surgical equipment. Dr. Fogarty founded the Thomas Fogarty Winery in 1981 after years of making wine as a hobby in a mountain cabin. He and Winemaker Michael Martella have been instrumental in bringing the Santa Cruz Mountains Appellation to national prominence. Dr. Fogarty is an authoritative voice on the subject of moderate wine consumption and its association with good health.
TOP PICKS
FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
Varietal: Zinfandel
PENFOLDS, History: An English
doctor founded Penfolds 150 years ago. Dr Christopher Rawson Penfold studied in
London, where he almost certainly met Dr Henry John Lindeman, who was training in the same
hospital. Penfold's sense of adventure encouraged him and his wife Mary to emigrate
to South Australia. They arrived in the colony, founded only eight years before, on August
8, 1844. The Penfolds had purchased 500 acres at Magill, and brought French vine
cuttings with them. They called their home The Grange, after Mary's
home in England. Dr Penfold built up his medical practice and made
fortified wines - port and sherry - for his patients. As the demand for his wine grew he
expanded vineyards and production. At some stage in the 1850's, wine probably took over
from medicine as the family's chief source of income. The family
wine business became a company in 1921 and the years leading up to and during the Second
World War saw further acquisitions of vineyards and cellars in the Hunter, Barossa, and
Griffith areas, together with the Auldana and Modbury vineyards near Magill.
In 1950, the focus was on table wine, a task given to the Chief
Winemaker, Max Schubert, who had joined the company as a teenaged messenger boy in the
early 1930s. In 1951, Schubert produced the first experimental
vintage of Grange Hermitage, a red wine - made from Shiraz. In the 1960s Schubert
developed the "family" of wines that have since established Penfolds in all
sectors of the red wine market. www.penfolds.com
Penfolds has released its 46th vintage of Grange with the 1996 vintage. Grange has
become the benchmark by which all other Australian wines are measured. The limited
production may be found in stores for an estimated price is $195.00. PENFOLDS has released
some super premium reds and a Koonunga Hill blend that are more immediately available. If
there is an ideal Shiraz in your future, it's probably one of these PENFOLDS' wines. The
Cabernet and Cab blend are delicious too. PENFOLDS 1998 Magill Estate Shiraz
$50: "complex tobac and cinnamon stick spice with licorice and black pepper in the
background, aeration reveals mocha and charcoal aromas and well-handled cedary oak and
typical Magill spectrum aromas of plum and dark berry compote."
PENFOLDS 1998 RWT Shiraz $70: "rich plum-pudding-saturated fruits and stylish French
oak hints followed by more subtle glaced fruits encasing dark licorice and sweet
plum."
PENFOLDS 1998 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon $80: "concentrated creme de cassis and black
plum with floral aromas, Brazil-nut oak and complex barrel fermentation characters in the
background."
PENFOLDS 1997 St. Henri Shiraz $45: "There are lively, rich and stylish, varietal
notes, stewed raspberries and logan berries with a savory accompaniment reminiscent of
cassoulet. Chocolate, mocha and black tea aromas are shyly in background."
PENFOLDS 1999 Koonunga Hill Shiraz-Cabernet $11: "forward aromas of rich plum,
blackberry with hints of licorice and eucalyptus, some cherry and chocolate revelations
with black olive and rhubarb."
NEWS
The MUSHROOM COUNCIL announced September as National Mushroom Month. There's a brochure that notes health benefits and recipes as well. For free copies: infor@mushroomcouncil.com
VENTANA INN & SPA and SONOMA MISSION INN & SPA have announced a partnership with San Francisco's PRESCOTT HOTEL. Now travelers can book at three well-trapped destinations: San Francisco, the Big Sur Coast and Sonoma's Wine Country. www.ventanainn.com
McDOWELL VALLEY VINEYARDS won the top honor, "Best in Show" at the California State Fair, for its 1999 Reserve Syrah.
MARCEL'S, a Washington, D.C. restaurant owned by Chef/Proprietor Robert Wiedmair, has announced that his sommelier, Aurelio Cabestrero, is offering diners to participate in a flight of new wines that have been added to the wine list. The focus is on French wines. For information, 202/296-1166, wiedmaier@aol.com
VINS d'ALSACE, Conseil Interprofessionnel de Vins d'Alsace (CIVA), announced that the United States is in the midst of a full-fledged Alsace Riesling revival. More and more consumers are on catching on to this delicious, fresh, fruity white wine from France. The Alsace Wine Council reported that sales of Alsace Riesling in the U.S. were up +36% in volume and value. Trimbach and Hugel are two Alsatian producers. www.alsacewine.com
SHAFER Line on Wine reports wine statistics. In July, it reported that 3.3 percentage of wines in the 2001 San Diego Wine Competition were corked; 4% of wine produced in California comes from Napa Valley; the first person to graft French vines onto American rootstock to prevent phylloxera was Texas viticulturist T.V. Munson (please see my book: The Wines of Texas, by Sarah Jane English).
ALLIED DOMECQ wines has acquired Perrier Jouet and Champagne Mumm and Liz Dueland is the new public relations manager of the accounts.
SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL WINE AUCTION hosted its 9th Annual event and raised $350,000. The Music Academy of the West Summer Festival and the California central coast vintners combined to offer the event. www.musicacademy.org
RIEDEL CRYSTAL has introduced new stemware: the MILLENNIUM GLASS 2002 and MONTRACHET. These glasses represent RIEDEL's designer-eye for line and form while enhancing function. RIEDEL is known for finely tuned instruments for every level of wine sophistication as well as fine wine glasses in all price categories. www.riedelcrystal.com
HUDSON's ON THE BEND Cooking Classes are for those who love to cook or who love a cook. For information, call 512/266-7655, 800/996-7655, FAX 512/266-3518 or www.hudsonsontehbend.com Please see current issue of Country Lifestyle (available at HEB and elsewhere for non subscribers) for my article on Hudson's.
DeLILLE CELLARS is the only five-star Washington wine rated in Decanter's Top Red Wines of the year. www.delillecellars.com
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY WINEGROWERS (RRVW) have a mission to "nourish the agricultural diversity of the appellation and preserve its environmental resources while maintaining the authentic farming heritage." Farmers grow wine. Grape growing is an important agricultural endeavor in the Russian River Valley and essential to the farming in the community. In an era when wine is symbolic of a textured lifestyle, it is time to introduce America to the true farmers behind the wines. Several wineries are certified "Green," a comprehensive program that addresses water quality, air quality, land use, energy, solid waste, fire codes, permits, and funding. Certified wineries are Belvedere, David Bynum, Gallo of Sonoma, Hanna, Hartford, Hop Kiln, Iron Horse, J Wine Co., Jordan, Kendall-Jackson - Skylane, L. Foppiano, La Crema and Topolos. www.rrvw.org
WINEGROWERS OF DRY GREEK VALLEY (WDCV), Sonoma, California, hosted Insider's Exploration of Dry Creek Valley. It featured a panel discussion on head-trained and trellised zinfandel grapes, comparing the two methods. First planted in the 1870s, Dry Creek Valley has become synonymous with Zinfandel wines. Many pre-Prohibition, head-trained vines still exist. Dave Bevill, president of WDCV, said, "Dry Creek Valley is 16 miles long, two miles wide with approximately 5,000 acres under cultivation--about the same as the as at the turn of the century. The oldest and best quality zinfandel grows on the eastern benchlands and western coastal hillsides." Quality grapes come from both methods. www.wdcv.com
KING ESTATE has appointed Brad Biehl as General Manager and Miles Johnson as Director of Marketing.
SOUTHCORP WINES has appointed Megghen Driscol as Vice-President of Public Relations and Communication, and Eric Lake as Vice-President On-premise of National Accounts.
DELICATO was awarded "Best USA Wine Producer" by England's International Wine & Spirit Competition. Delicato Family Vineyards creates wines primarily from fruit harvested in and around Lodi and retails for $6 to $8.
KORBEL has released its richest and most elegant California champagne--1995 Reserve Le Premier. Extremely limited, the complex cuvee is crafted in European style with nutty, toasty aromas complemented by delicate green apple and berry fruit flavors. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for this wine come from the excellent 1995 harvest in Russian River Valley.
ROBERT MONDAVI, one of 19 nominees, has won the "Wine Industry Integrity Award 2001," an award crated by the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission in 1998. The intent of the award is to shine light on individuals whose careers exemplify integrity and provide inspiration for the industry to emulate.
WINE.COM, the only national online wine retailer, invites consumers to do holiday shopping for books, gifts, wine accessories and for wine in 27 states of the U.S. and in Japan. For information, contact Jean Jacote at Paige Poulos Communications: jean@ppcwinecom.com, 510/528-0665.
BERINGER BLASS WINE ESTATES has entered an agreement to acquire ETUDE wines from Tony Soter, who will continue his roll at the winery along with its employees. "I've always been a fan of Etude," says Mora Cronin, a vice-president of Beringer Blass. "But perhaps the best part of the collaboration is the opportunity to work alongside Tony Soter, surely one of the most distinguished, dedicated winemakers of our time."
THOMAS FOGARTY, internationally recognized heart surgeon, inventor, winery owner, Stanford professor and entrepreneur, has been inducted into the National Inventors Hall of Fame (NIHF) for his 1969 patent of the embolectomy catheter. Inserted into an artery, inflated, and then withdrawn to remove blood clots, the Fogarty® Balloon Embolectomy Catheter represented the first "less-invasive" medical technology, making operations safer, less traumatic and often less expensive.
MERIDIAN Vineyards has published a free brochure titled "7 Things Every Gal Should Know About Ordering Wine." To order, please go to www.meridianvineyards.com or write to: Meridian Vineyards Brochure, P.O. Box 111, St. Helena, CA 94574
ST. FRANCIS Vineyards & Winery debuted has opened the doors to its new visitors center and invites visitors to explore Sonoma wine, food and lifestyle in the traditional tasting room. The Mission-Style structure is located on Wild Oak Vineyard, one mile west of the original tasting room on Sonoma Highway. For information, 800/543-7713, www.stfranciswine.com
SABATE USA, world's second largest cork producer, announced findings from a wine closure industry-wide survey of wineries about wine closures. A major significant finding is the threshold of acceptable levels of TCA a92,4,6-Trichloroanisole)--main source of "taint" in wine. While 88 % identified corks as the main source of TCA contamination, 60% recognized other winery sources as the cause.
INTERNATIONAL AWARDS, GALLO of SONOMA Winery: "Winery of the Year,"third time winner at the San Francisco International Wine Competition--award is given to winery earning the greatest number of medals, measured by total points of all awards. Against 730 wineries from 22 states and 19 foreign countries, Gallo of Sonoma competed and earned 17 medals. "Best Chardonnay Worldwide," International Wine & Spirits Competition named Gallo of Sonomas 1997 Stefani Vineyard Chardonnay the "Best Chardonnay Worldwide" at VinExpo, Europes largest gathering of leaders of the wine world. "Premio Gran VinItaly Award," Gallo, for the second time in three years, captured the "Premio Gran Vinitaly" award in 2001 for the most medals bestowed on a winery. "Best of Show," The 1996 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon of Ernest and Julio Gallo won top spot in the competition at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience. "Best U.S. Wine Producer," at the prestigious U.K. based International Wine Challenge, according to the organizers of the competition, "The top U.S. producer was assessed on overall performance and Gallo achieved the best medal rating taking three of only 148 medals awarded in the entire competition and achieving the highest average mark of all U. S. entries." Gallo of Sonoma won the only gold medal presented to a U.S. winery at the worlds largest international wine trade show, the 34th VinItaly, in Verona, Italy. "Prix d'Excellence Award," the 1996 Laguna Ranch Chardonnay was one of only 40 wines to receive the special prize of "Prix dExcellence" at the Challenge International du Vin. "Most Successful Producer," at the Shanghai Wine Challenge, the Gallo of Sonoma Winery was given the "Trophy For the Most Successful Producer." "Best Chardonnay, Best White Wine, Best U.S. White Wine," Gallo of Sonoma 1996 Laguna Ranch Chardonnay won a gold medal and a trophy in three separate categories at the Japan International Wine Challenge: Best Chardonnay, Best White Wine, and Best U.S. White Wine. Thirteen Gallo of Sonoma wines were entered in the contest and 11 won awards. Gold medals were also given to the 1994 Ernest & Julio Gallo Northern Sonoma Estate Cabernet and the 1995 Stefani Vineyard Chardonnay.
TEXAS OLIVE OIL COUNCIL reports that the enthusiasm is running high because olive trees in South Texas are bearing fruit. Executive Director Trigg Dealey led a tour on David and Beverly Anderson's ranch in Dilley, a small town 70 miles southwest of San Antonio, to show off the fruit. "The 144 robust and healthy olive tree branches were drooping from the weight of so much fruit," he reported gleefully.
***
NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
ROBERT CRAIG
WINE CELLARS owner Bob Craig says his love of winemaking always begins with the
vineyards and his belief in the importance of vineyard location. In his case,
Mt. Veeder was where he managed the development of 300 acres to found The Hess Collection
in the 1980s. He also spearheaded the campaign to have Mt. Veeder designated an
appellation (granted in 1990). Bob established his own winery in 1992, hand-crafting
his dream wines which showcase distinctive cabernet grapes from finest Napa vineyards (Mt.
Veeder, Howell Mt. and Valley floor). The ROBERT CRAIG WINE CELLARS 1998 Affinity
shows his art of blending to make a Bordeaux-style Cabernet Sauvignon. His ROBERT
CRAIG WINE CELLARS 1999 Russian River demonstrates the richness and complexity that is the
hallmark of renowned Chardonnays. www.robertcraigwine.com
ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 2000 Chardonnay Estate $15: "bright flavorful wine was produced from three individual blocks of Chardonnay on the Wetzel Estate. Stainless Steel and barrel fermentation with multiple yeast strains, French oak barrel aging on the yeast lees, and partial secondary or malolactic fermentation all combine to present a flavorable and complex wine. Wonderful fruit is balanced with generous alcohol and acidity, enhanced with French oak and yeast aromas. The wine finishes with great flavor and length.
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CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Steve Reeder believes every wine deserves to be blended. "Whether I'm blending it with another varietal or with multiple lots from the same vineyard, I love the game of blending," he says. "Blending offers me both the thrill and the challenge to make the best wine possible. Some wines are wonderful as 100% varietal wines--but I believe those are few. Most wines scream for a boost--even the subtlest introduction of another varietal can help a wine reach its full potential. Two perfect examples of my addiction to blending are my CHATEAU ST. JEAN 1999 Sonoma County Merlot, $25, and the CHATEAU ST. JEAN 2000 Fume, $13. Feel free to let Steve know what you think: Steve.Reeder@Beringerblass.com I thought they were delicious.
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TRINCHERO 2000 Family Selection Sauvignon Blanc, $12, "displays a complex aroma of toasty, spicy oak, malolactic creaminess and bright melon with a fig fruit accented by grassy/herbal tones, rich and crispy with citrus flavors."
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ST. CLEMENT Winemaker Aaron Pott says, "After almost a year making St. CLEMENT wines, I am more excited than ever to be making wine in paradise!--especially about the success of the 1999 red wines and many of the 2000 whites. Our winemaking staff is working with a dedicated group of grape growers to continue to focus on crop quality and ripeness levels. My boots are not only dusty, they're literally filled with rocks and dirt clods from walking these fields. 2001 is going to be superb! Meanwhile, enjoy the ST. CLEMENT 1998 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $35--fruit filled and luscious, sweet oak and ripe raspberry with hints of chocolate and spice; the ST. CLEMENT 2000 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, $13--the undercurrent is citrus and tropical fruit; and the 1999 OROPPAS $50--a slightly different blend with balanced percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, more blueberry, cherry and spicy toasted flavor and ripe wild berry flavors make it unusually complex." www.stclement.com
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LINDEMANS released its 2000 vintage of popular Bin wines. LINDEMANS is one of Australia's most awarded wineries and is now the number one imported brand in the United States. Chief Winemaker Phillip John says, "The 2000 vintage truly utilized LINDEMANS multi-regional blending philosophy to the fullest. Many regions experienced exceptional varietal character and abundant crops while others had lower crop levels but highly concentrated fruit flavors. Overall, this vintage produced wines with exactly what we look for--flavor with softness." www.lindemans.com
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MUMM CUVEE NAPA began pressing grapes on August 8, 2001, for the "real" new millennium--approximately 75 tons of prime pinot noir and chardonnay grapes harvested by hand. Harvest will continue for for an estimated six weeks.
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HERZOG Winery has just introduced the latest vintages of its acclaimed reserve wines: HERZOG 1998 Special Edition Warnecke Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, HERZOG 1999 Special Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay, HERZOG 1998 Special Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and HERZOG 1998 Special Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaker Peter Stern says, "1998 was a relatively cool growing season, which resulted in deeply colored Cabernets with lots of character. 1999 was also on the cooler side, so the grapes from the Russian River Valley Chardonnay were intensely-flavored and the wine shows great fruit development. Both vintages were excellent for us an we're happy with the quality of these wines."
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VALLEY OF THE MOON 2000 Sonoma County Chardonnay $14, "this first Chardonnay of the new millennium enjoy the same rigorous standards set by founder George Whitman over 130 years ago. In the 1860s on this winery site, he ran a successful enterprise producing 50,000 gallons of wine annually. Ownership changed may times until KENWOOD Vineyards purchased VALLEY OF THE MOON in 1997. Winemaker Pat Henderson hand selected grapes grown in Carneros, Sonoma Valley and the Russian River to produce this richly textured Chardonnay. Whole cluster pressed and fermented in small French oak barrels, it aged sur lie for five months and underwent malolactic. It's luscious, well balanced and has toasty vanilla, fruity flavors of apples and gooseberries.
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TRIMBACH Vin d'Alsace has enjoyed a series of good to excellent vintages over the past few years. Included are current releases with national availability. The selection of these Alsatian varietals, delicious now and with aging potential.
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PONZI Vineyards, an Oregon winery founded in 1970,
is a Ponzi family enterprise. Nancy and Dick Ponzi searched the West Coast and felt
the Willamette Valley offered them the best chance for wine success. Thirty
one years later, having been proven right, the innovation continues with the second
generation. Daughter and winemaker Luisa, with an Oregon Pinot Noir background,
studied Burgundies in France and earned a coveted certificate: Professional
d'Oenologie et Viticulture.
PONZI VINEYARDS is located in the rolling farmland 15 miles southwest of
Portland, the Oregon winery closest to the city center. The small family-owned
winery that has earned international recognition for consistently producing high quality
Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Arneis and Vino Gelato. The Northern Willamette Valley
winery is now under the guidance of the second generation PonzisMichel, Anna-Maria
and Luisa. The first four barrels produced in 1974 have been expanded to the current
annual production of 10,000 cases. I tasted through the wines with Maria and she
told me their focus is on the wine varietals that perfectly match the Oregon climate:
pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay and white riesling. www.ponziwines.com The
current PONZI release is the 1998 Reserve Chardonnay $30, "with a lovely structure
and depth, aromas of peaches, apples, pears and roasted nuts, intense flavors of rich
fruit accented with mineral characteristics and a lingering, supple finish,"
Luisa says.
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KENWOOD VINEYARDS has released its current KENWOOD VINEYARDS Artist's Series Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) featuring Route Terrasse au Soleil a Ceret by Rizo on the label--the 23rd in the KENWOOD's series. Winemaker Mike Lee's history of crafting these exceptional wines is backed by an outstanding 1997 harvest. Lee selected his finest barrels, predominantly from vineyards located on the eastern slope of the Mayacamas mountain range. After harvesting, the grapes were fermented in stainless steel and the lots aged separately in small French oak for 30 months. Following final blending, the 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc wine was aged six months in French oak and an additional eight months of aging thereafter in bottle. It is an intensely concentrated wine with vibrant blackberry and black cherry fruit tinged with hints of mint, spice and cassis. It has great aging potential. KENWOOD has also released three new whites wines for our enjoyment now.
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CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Steve Reeder is pleased with two spectacular vineyards that consistently produce grapes that do his bidding. "It's a great pleasure to present our 24th bottling of Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay and the 25th of Belle Terre Vineyard Chardonnay," he says. "With 25 years of experience we've become known as vineyard designated specialists and I'm honored to continue the tradition."
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MAISON MARQUES & DOMAINES has released several wines. Looking ahead to holidays, CHAMPAGNE LOUIS ROEDERER, creator of the famous Cristal prestige cuvee, has enjoyed a reputation of renown. Brut Premier is the House's flagship multi-vintage champagne. ROEDERER ESTATE Anderson Valley is the the Champagne company's California property. FLEUR DU CAP and LE BONHEUR are wine properties in South Africa.
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The GALLO Family of wines owns a number of properties producing wines in different prices ranges to suit every pocket: GALLO OF SONOMA, ANAPAMU, INDIGO HILLS, and BELLA SERA.
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MERIDIAN VINEYARDS Winemaker Chuck Ortman has long had a passion for PInot Noir. "I've come to realize that one can never learn enough about Pinot Noir," he says. "The thin skin likens it to a white grape, but the wine's tannin structure is classically red. Clonal choices, viticultural practices, and vineyard location all have dramatic effects on the wine. Honestly, though, the varietal that still inspires me the most is chardonnay. I've been making it from Central Coast fruit for over 20 vintages now, but it's far from a routine practice."
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| © 2001 Sarah Jane English |
| Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com |
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