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The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 41st Edition
June 9, 2001
TOP PICKS
FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
Mixed Varietals: (please look for current releases)
WINERY FEATURES OF THE MONTH
PACIFIC STAR, Owner/winemaker Sally Ottoson
I had the distinct pleasure of Sally Ottoson's good company when she visited Austin in May. We dined at Emilia's, another grand pleasure, while tasting her delicious Pacific Star wines along with very pleasant conversation that included her gracious husband, Robert Zimmer. It was, indeed, a lovely evening. As I told them, "If I had known I was going to like you so much, I would have taken the day to guide you around Austin! Next time" Also, when meeting winemakers to taste their wines for the first time, it is always a great relief to find that they are good, really well-made wines. Sally's are. There are, however, only 5,000 cases. Sally became involved in the wine world through a part-time job as the Wine Garden in St. Helena while attending college. She learned her craft through apprenticeship and practical experience over the last 20 years, combining old world methods with current technology and her own style. Her westernmost winery in the continental U.S.A. is twelve miles north of Fort Bragg and perched on the edge of the dramatic Mendocino County coastline. The winery is just a few hundred feet from the crashing waves. "The winery was bonded in 1988," Sally says. "Our cellar contains French, Hungarian and American oak and specialty equipment suited to our small operation such as Italian water bladder presses, small lot open fermenters and a portable grape receiving system. The majority of our grapes are transported from old-vine Mendocino vineyards belonging to friends. My plan is to use the best of everything. I think the highest quality raw materials matter most, just like in cooking. I move my wines from new to neutral barrels for extended again because I don't want oak to dominate the wine. To me, winemaking is a passion--not a job." I'm going to visit them in Mendocino County. You should too. Meanwhile, enjoy the wines.
All these wines have won multiple medals--mostly gold. Sally has a real magical touch with her wines. I tasted all of them and liked all of them. While they're all delicious, the Mourvedre and Viognier were stunning. Don't deny yourself. Try all of them.
HANDLEY CELLARS Continues to Craft Superb Wines
HANDLEY CELLARS Owner/winemaker Milla Handley had a natural interest in fermentation science since her great-great-grandfather Henry Weinhard was a man with brewing fame. She studied enology at U.C. Davis (degree 1975) and spent three years in charge of quality control at Chateau St. Jean, then was assistant winemaker at Edmeades before founding her own winery. Milla makes complex, balanced wines, using her winemaking artistry to enhance the fruit character of grapes. Most of all, her wines share a characteristic harmony and allure that makes them a pleasure to drink. Milla says that temperatures were moderate during the summer of 2000. Weather warmed considerably in September in Mendocino County, CA, and the grapes were ready to harvest mid-month. "We crushed all the pinot gris fruit before pressing to intensify fruit flavors, and 75% was fermented in stainless steel tanks to bring out floral notes and retain crispness," she says. "The rest went to older, neutral oak for almost three months, increasing texture and mouth feel of the HANDLEY 2000 Pinot Gris ($16) wine." The 1999 summer was cool. Milla found grapes from an inland, warmer area vineyard for HANDLEY Sauvignon Blanc while her Dry Creek Vineyard in Sonoma County was being replanted. Harvest was delayed until late October when sugars and fruit quality were good. The HANDLEY Sauvignon Blanc ($14) is 100% barrel fermented and then spent four months in French oak barrels that were coopered specifically for Sauvignon Blanc. This wine has won gold medals at three major wine competitions!! Good for you, Milla! Many of you are familiar with HANDLEY Pinot Mystere Meunier ($20), Milla's mystery wine. Pinot Meunier, a cousin of Pinot Noir, makes up about half of the vines planted in France's Champagne region, where it is used as a component of sparkling wine. It is a hearty vine that buds late and is frost resistant even after leafing out. The leaves have a slight white fuzz; Meunier meaning 'miller" as in flour--white dust. HANDLEY CELLARS is one of the few wineries in the U.S. that makes a 100% Pinot Meunier still red wine. Spring came late to Anderson Valley in 1999 and because of uneven weather conditions harvest came late; however, flavors and yields were good. "During maceration we drew off some of the juice, resulting in more concentrated flavors and better balance," Milla says. "After fermentation the wine went to neutral puncheons (the larger, 500 liter barrels), ageing for nine months." Also look for HANDLEY 1996 Brut sparkling wine $29 (55% Chardonnay /45% Pinot Noir), HANDLEY 1999 Chardonnay Anderson Valley $17, HANDLEY 1999 Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley $19, HANDLEY 1998 Pinot Noir Reserve $48, HANDLEY 2000 Rose $12 and HANDLEY 2000 Gewurztraminer. www.handleycellars.com
PEAK WINES INTERNATIONAL (PWI) announced an impressive list of awards presented at national competitions during the first quarter of 2001--including Geyser Peak, Canyon Road, Barwang, and Venezia. They consistently rank among the most award winning wines in California. Results for the first quarter wine competitions include the Chronicle Northern Wine Competition, Cincinnati International Wine Festival, Dallas Morning News, Florida State Fair, Hilton Head Island Wine Festival, Monterey Wine Festival, and the New World International Wine Competition. Collectively, GEYSER PEAK BLOCK COLLECTION and GEYSER PEAK RESERVE series each won eight gold medals. PWI's Australian label, BARWANG, took a gold medal plus Best of Class and Best New World Port designations for Tawy Port.
DELILLE CELLARS and QUILCEDA CREEK VINTNERS have partnered with CIEL du CHEVAL VINEYARD to develop two new state-of-the-art Red Mountain AVA vineyards. They're using isolated clonal selections that were chosen for options in blending programs.
KING ESTATES 1999 Pinot Gris won the Sweepstakes Award at the West Coast Wine Competition; that is, Best of Class, Gold Medal and Sweepstakes for white wine category.
STERLING VINEYARDS and THE NAPA VALLEY MUSEUM are presenting "500 Years of Wine in Art: The Sterling Vineyards Print Portfolio." The exhibition includes works by Van Leyden, Picasso, Daumier, Chagall, Diderot and Currier & Ives, and it opens Sunday, June 10 through September 2.
CHEF MARTIN RIOS is the executive chef of the only Mobil Four Star and AAA Four Diamond restaurant in the State of New Mexico. It is located in Eldorado Hotel, Santa Fe and named The Old House. Sounds like its worth a journey. (505) 988-4455 www.eldoradohotel.com
PUBLICATIONS
THE RIVER CAFE WINE PRIMER by Joseph Delissio, wine director of the Cafe, gives the basics about understanding wine: How to Taste and Evaluate; Buying Wine for Cellar; Restaurant Wine List; The Vineyard and the Vintage; Making Wine, Grape Varietals and Wine Regions of the World. Little, Brown and Company, hardback, 269 pages, $26.
CONCISE WINE COMPANION edited by Janis Robinson, Oxford University Press, paperback, 559 pages, $19, has received lavish praise. Whether apprentice or connoisseur, all wine buffs will be informed by this book. Drawn from the OXFORD COMPANION TO WINE, this new edition contains all the detail in an affordable, easy-to-handle package. Showing 2,350 cross-referenced entries, the book covers every aspect of wine, from wine regions, to tasting terms, from labeling to grape varieties, and from faults of wine to its healthy benefits.
"A Journey Through the Flavors of Italy: Naturalmente Italiano" is a new brochure--well written and concise, from the Italian Trade Commission on the art of eating well. For information, please see www.Italianmade.com or fax (212) 758-1050
A TASTE of LIFE ($19.50) is a paperback book published by Ocean Spray that's chocked full of interesting tips, recipes and lifestyle pursuits with an emphasis on cranberries--of course. For information: 800/662-3263, www.oceanspray.com
LIDIA'S ITALIAN-AMERICAN TABLE, a recipe book and a 13-part television series on PBS sponsored by Palm Bay Imports, is by restauranteur Lidia M. Bastianich. For copies, please contact 800/872-5622 or e-mail JKettlewell@palmbayimports.com
NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
OWEN'S ESTATE wines are sourced typically from throughout South Australia--Sauvignon Blanc, rolling slopes of McLaren Vale; Merlot from Coonawarra and McLaren Vale; Cabernet-Shiraz from southest Australia and Coonawarra.
J. LOHR has released two wines from the cool Arroyo Seco, Monterey appellation--White Riesling and Valdigue. The 2000 vintage benefited from a long growing season with extended hang-time for exceptional flavor development. Another J. LOHR wine release is the Syrah grown on the Nacimiento-Los Osos Complex, chalky clay soils of its Paso Robles vineyard. Enjoy! www.jlohr.com
MAISON MARQUES & DOMAINES has released several wines from South Africa and France.
St. CLEMENT winemaker, Australian Aaron Pott, is "pleased with the historical quality of ST. CLEMENT and the opportunity to once again make wines in one of the most perfect growing regions in the world--Napa Valley." Formerly the Imports Winemaker for Beringer Wine Estates, "making wines in Italy, France and Chile, I learned that vineyard location means everything to a fine wine. In tasting through the barrels of 1999 and 2000 ST. CLEMENT wines, I was struck by the continuity and consistent quality and excited about working with these highly extracted, luscious, soft and drinkable wines." www.stclement.com or 800/331-8266
CHATEAU SOUVERAIN Winemaker Ed Killian enjoys the opportunity to bottle a vineyard's character. "Appellation distinctions are often masked by popular winemaking techniques," he says, "but a direct vineyard-to-bottle translation best promotes the strengths of a particular growing area. We're releasing two wines that are designed to do just that." www.chateausouverain.com
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE Winemaker Ron Bunnell says 1998 may well be remembered as the vintage of the decade for Clumbia Valley. "Mild winter temperatures led to normal budbreak in April, followed by a brief period of cold, wet, weather. Sunshine and heat quickly returned, though, and set the pattern for the remainder of the season: warm, dry and stable. Hot summer temperatures prevailed just long enough to develop smaller-than-average berries, then moderated to slow the ripening process and give the fruit extended time on the vine. Mother Nature remained benevolent throughout harvest, and delivered intensely concentrated fruit with ideal sugar-to-acid balance," Ron says. From the 1998 vintage, look for
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE Winemaker Erik Olsen says the 1999 winegrowing season in the Columbia Valley, Washington, began as one of the coolest on record since 1954. Things turned around in August with the onset of a prolonged period of unusually warm, sunny weather and low nighttime temperatures--ideal conditions for the development and maintenance of intense aromas and flavors in the ripening grapes. Harvest began in late September. and the fruit's complexity and concentration were further enhanced by below average berry size and overall yields. www.ste-michelle.com
LA CREMA uses fruit from the Sonoma Coast for it's current releases of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. "The Sonoma Coast appellation embraces the coldest vititcultural zones in SonomaCounty. The appellation includes Sonoma Carneros and Estero Gap, both in the southern sector; the cooler zones of the Russian River Valley; and the long, thin strip of the coastal ridges extending North to the Mendocino County line. LA CREMA cultivates select vineyards in these cold coastal areas, which produce fruit of incomparable quality." www.lacrema.com or 800/588-5298
CALINA and TAPIZ represent South American properties of Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates (K-J). For almost a decade, K-J has grown and made wines with an incessant search for the best vineyards in Argentina and Chile. The 1999 vintage, blended and bottled in the new K-J South American wineries, was one of the most promising in recent years. CALINA pioneered choice new vineyard sites along the cool, Chilean Pacific coast. TAPIZ Winery lies just over the Andes in Argentina. It's success is rooted in high-elevation vineyards in the foothills of Mendoza province. K-J Winemaker Randy Ullom makes these wines.
CAMELOT Vineyards has no Round Table or knights in shining armor, but it is the story of Camelot wine--fastest growing value brand within the Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates Collection. There are two new varietal offerings bringing CAMELOT to six altogether, and new packaging--including the handsome labels; you'll be attracted to them. There's a new price, $9 each, new closure--an alternative that decreases risk for spoiled bottles; however, there's nothing new about the quality. Winemaker Mike Leven--whose much-admired skill as a master blender has earned him the nickname of Midas-- makes the wines from home base at K-J Monterey where he's near the Central Coast fruit. www.Camelotwine.com
TRINITY OAKS is a new line of super-premiun wines from Trinchero Family Estates. There are four varietals, each with suggested retail of $10. They are a blend of coastal fruit from Monterey, San Luis Obispoand Santa Barbara and the Lodi-Sacremento Delta region. The Trinchero family emigrated to the U.S.A. during the 1920s from northern Italy, where they had been in the wine business for six generations. In 1947 they discovered an abandoned winery called Sutter Home and purchased it. www.trinityoaks.com Trinchero also released two Family Selection wines, www.mtrincher0.com and three from MONTEVINA in Amador County www.montevina.com
MARIMAR TORRES eponymous owner says her 1999 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are showing well. "I like the Chardonnay for its balance, complexity, structure and elegance," she says, "and best of all, it is perfect with food. The Pinot Noir promises to be a really superb wine."
HEDGES CELLARS Owners Tom and Anne-Marie Hedges make wines in Washington State in the noteworthy Red Mountain appellation. "We recognize the incredible quality of the grapes grown here," Tom says. "That's why we planted our vines on Red Mountain. The maturation of these Red Mountain vineyards is now providing an overall increase of staggering proportions for excellent fruit of high caliber. The result is an qualitative improvement in all Hedges Cellars' red wines."
ROBERT MONDAVI (RM) Family of Wines announced its spring releases. Many of the wines in this gruop are from Chile. In 1996, RM entered into a partnership with Eduardo Chadwick of VINA ERRARZURUZ. Fvie years has brought great progress in the quality and variety of wines. Likewise, the Chilean/California winemaking team of CALITERRA wines reports great success with the first label of this partnership. RM COASTALS showcase a wide range of outstanding growing conditions. And also available are good-value WOODBRIDGE, which employ small-lot production techniques. These wines are very reasonably priced and I suggest you buy the same varietal from each producer and compare the wines side by side to see which styles you prefer.
R.H.PHILIPS Wine Company has released 375ml bottles in response to restauranteurs' request--the 1999 Toasted Head Chardonnay and 1999 EXP Syrah. They are also available in the 750ml bottles.
CLOS DU BOIS has crafted elegant, soft and supple wines for 25 years to show the best of the Sonoma County wine region. The winemaking team is intimately familiar with the subtle nuances of the fruit grown here. CLOS DU BOIS's appellation Reserve Series showcases the terroir of Sonoma County's most exclusive winegrowing areas.
ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS has released three 1999 wines an each has a suggested retail of $20.
FERRARI-CARANO has released three new wines. Winemaker George Bursick says, "The 2000 Fume Blanc is in the classic Loire Valley style. It is 100% sauvignon blanc grapes that are growon in three different viticultural regins of Sonoma County. The season was perfect for the grapes. The Chardonnay is an example of why I think blending is so important for style and quality. It's blended each year from about 60 different lots an from eight of our vineyards in Alexander Valley. The style is lush and tropical and shows the pure flavors of the varietal. I ferment in French oak and age in barrel. The '99 vintage is elegant. As to the Merlot, I look at my 1998 growing season descriptions and I see that the cool weather and late spring rains led to a small set and a small crop. The clusters were small with exceptinal concentration of fruit flavors. It has soft tannins and an appealing warmth.
The Routes Jacques Coeur, a Treasure to visit in central France's Berry-Cher
I’ve found a treasure. Beyond Paris, it may be my favorite place in France. It is also the home of favorite French friends—the gracious and charming Marie-France de Peyronnet and her husband Xavier. Marie-France introduced me to the Routes Jacques Coeur, a region she serves as Déléguée de la Route Jacques Coeur.Like other curious travelers, I often long for that little known destination that avoids the usual roar of the crowd. To find such a wonder in France, where visitors can also experience palpable history, is unusually exciting. The Shangri-la does exist. It is real. The trek is named for a 15th-century man who amassed the greatest fortune of his time, Jacques Coeur.
Route Jacques Coeur meanders through the ancient province of Berry, today called Le Cher en Berry (or simply Cher). It is located 200km south of Paris in the heart of France. Its namesake is a Midas-like character who made millions of francs in trade with the East. He was born (1395) and reared in Bourges, a boy with little education and no pedigree, but grew to be a man who could count very well indeed. It was his skill with numbers that led to his fame.
In the 15th century, France consisted of many regions and history was made throughout the country, not just in Paris. The Berry region contains a constellation of castles from the Loire River to the geographical center of France that document important events and enterprises. Le Chateau de Meillant, Le Chateau d’Ainay-le-Vieil, Chateau La Verrerie and other properties helped produce statesmen such as Jacques Coeur, Sully, Colbert and Louvois. Berry has always been a rallying point for the French. Historically nurtured, the enthusiastic landowners of major sites in the region have formed an association of their properties, choosing the name Jacques Coeur to suggest the unity and the double nature of the homes—half medieval and half Renaissance. Many are now open to visitors.
In the 1430s, France lived through some of its most tragic years. It was invaded by foreigners and torn by civil war. The English occupied most of northern France, including Orleans and the King took refuge in the heart of his kingdom at Bourges. Had Joan of Arc not entered the scene and helped to change history, the King might have continued retreating further south. Jacques Coeur appeared at this historic moment.
Bourges, although especially famous for its magnificent cathedral, is a destination for knowledgeable travelers who also visit Jacques Coeur’s majestic palace, now a museum. The beautifully preserved mansion—a full block long--is a showcase of architectural splendor, containing among its fine appointments the first indoor water closet in France. It has a Gothic tower of carved stone, ornate relief and cornices, and Renaissance windows. The interior, which was furnished grandly, had lavishly carved chairs and tables, high canopied beds, wall tapestries above cushioned benches, huge cupboards and dressers, floors of polished oak or enameled tiles and enormous fireplaces—much of it intact and restored to its original grandeur. The Route—with grand chateaux all along the way that reflect Jacques Coeur’s palace--honors the financier for the wealth he helped create for his countrymen and king.
King Charles VII appointed Jacques Coeur as his financial adviser. In that capacity he succeeded in preserving the resources of the rich rather than depleting their wealth through taxation.
Through this time, Jacques Coeur remained a faithful supporter of Charles VII. He helped acquire money for the King’s causes--equipping a fleet that challenged the might of Venice, establishing firm banking practices, engaging fruitfully in the salt trade, and fostering the minting of money. Alas, as the King’s Grand Argentier (Minister of Finance), he was accused by the Inquisition of having signed a pact with the devil. The King deserted Jacques Coeur, a man he once revered and relied on, and had him imprisoned. King Charles took Jacques’ fortune after he had him arrested. Nonetheless, Route Jacques Coeur commemorates the wise and fair financial policies he instigated that allowed Frenchmen to establish and generate wealth. As a result of his policies, many aristocrats built chateaux in this region. Several of them, beautifully preserved and maintained by family members who still own and live in them, are open to the public. Unlike Coeur’s limited taxing practices, modern families have a heavy tax burden and open their homes to the public in order to help pay the revenue. These gracious hosts seem to genuinely enjoy welcoming guests into their historic monuments. Several offer lodging or a sumptuous repas with the Count and Countess or other titled persons who own them.
Countess Marie-France de Peyronnet is the official representative for the Route Jacques Coeur. The charming, gracious lady is the perfect person to represent the area. She was born and reared in Ainay-le-Vieil, the 50-room chateau her ancestors and family members have occupied since 1467. Part of the edifice is 10th century; however, the living quarters date from the Renaissance. Until her death, Madame de Peyronnet’s mother, Baroness Jeraud d’Aligny, entertained at luncheons in the chateau--an obligation now assumed by the countess. Among the historic objects displayed are a music box belonging to Marie Antoinette, a medallion given to the baroness’ family by Napoleon I and an imposing portrait of their ancestor, Jean Baptiste
Colbert, (a highly regarded statesman who served under King Louis XIV). King Louis XII also visited Le Chateau d’Ainay-le-Vieil, which represents several different eras of architectural style—including a fully preserved enclosing wall and moat from feudal times. The Renaissance chapel has murals from the 16th and 17th centuries that were recently restored. Residents, then and now, maintain their property. According to the Countess, aristocrats also were responsible for their own defense."The castle at Ainay-le-Vieil was a 10th century fortress and the owner was in service to the king," Marie-France explains. "In succeeding centuries, other portions were added to it, including the displacement of the dungeons to build the present residential structure. The whole structure exudes history and several rooms are open for public visits."
The rose garden is designed in the French style and based on ancient varieties. There are 150 representative varieties from the 15th century to roses of the present day. Four themes dictate the garden: the oldest and rarest varieties, the most sweetly scented, those named for celebrities and the new varieties. The developing garden continually changes and accommodates various exhibitions. (Please contact Madame Marie-France de Peyronnet, 1 rue Madame, 75006 Paris)
Another incomparable property to visit is Le Chateau de Meillant. Its history recalls times from the Roman occupation—complete with a furnished guard’s room, which appears to be the size of a football field. Meillant contains some of the most remarkable and richly decorated furnished rooms imaginable. Influenced by the French Renaissance, classical motifs are carved in the furniture panels which furnish many rooms—including the grand salon, library, and dining room. Elaborately carved and painted ceilings and wall decorations make the rooms extraordinarily beautiful.
The Chateau de Maupas was built in the 15th century by Jean Dumesnil Simon, bailiff and governor of the Berry province. Maupas was erected on the ancient site of a previous dwelling which first belonged to the historic family of Sullys (1248). Afterwards it was owned by the Mathefelons (14th century) and then the Rochechouarts (one of whom was a mistress of Louis XIV). Maupas became the property of Antoine Agard in 1682 for the sum of 36,000 francs paid in gold. He was ennobled by Louis XV in 1725. The Marquess Maupas opens several rooms to visitors: the different drawing rooms, a state bedroom, game room and an old kitchen. Maupas houses an unique collection of 887 faïence plates that are exhibited along the staircase wall. It also features Gobelins tapestries and other elaborate souvenirs.
For a truly unforgettable immersion in Renaissance times, stay at the Chateau de La Verrerie. Its history includes an alliance with the Scots that called for defending the king. In those days, one monarch swore allegiance to another to come to his aid. His word was his bond. In one such instance, France’s King Charles VII called on the Stuarts of Scotland to fulfill their word. They answered his call, won the battle for him and were rewarded with La Verrerie. Today, each distinctly and individually decorated room is comfortably equipped with a modern bathroom. Count de Vogue oversees this 15th century historical monument with gracious hospitality.
"We offer all the comfort and amenities of a first-class hotel and the special cachet of a private country home," he says. "Breakfast in bed, tennis, bicycling or walking through the forest and park that overlook the lake are just some of the amenities for our guests."
Also located in the park on the property is a restaurant. It is named La Maison d’Helene to honor the former nurse of the de Vogue children.
The count and his wife live on the property and are an excellent source of information on sightseeing in the area. (Comte et Comtesse A. de Vogüe, Chateau de la Verrerie, Oizon – 18700 Aubigny sur Nère, France)
Another chateau along the Route Jacques Coeur that welcomes overnight guests is Chateau de La Commanderie. The Count and Countess Bernard de Jouffroy-Gonsans offer their kind hospitality and welcome visitors to stay in the eight rooms that are available in their home. They also host the sumptuous dinners served to their guests in the well-appointed dining room. It is a small chateau by comparison, but the quality of the repas and company, and the sweet evenings on the terrace are rare experiences.
There is a noteworthy abbey on the Route Jacques Coeur. Noirlac is a Cistercian abbey founded in 1150 by Saint Bernard. It has been meticulously restored and is one of the finest examples of medieval, monastic architecture (11th to 14th centuries) to be found anywhere. Noirlac includes the church, cloister, capitular room, monks’ dormitory, refectory and a wine cellar.
There are many other interesting visits along the Route Jacques Coeur. I especially like to stop at the bakeries and cheese shops in the little towns along the way to buy the deliciously fresh products for a quick lunch. Or better yet, attend one of the Saturday markets and select a bottle of the local wine to accompany the goat cheeses brought to these affairs by the farmers.
The central geographic location of Cher in France in many respects symbolizes all that is best in the country. A varied garden of bucolic scenery, it has a rich and glorious past that bequeathed treasures preserved by its quietly fun-loving people.
Nature’s gifts abound. Game fill the forests, fish maneuver the many crystal clear streams and rivers, and vast plains stretch across the sun-covered hills to add to the varied setting of the tranquil countryside and picturesque villages. As the major producer of oilseeds in France, the region is a blaze of sunshine yellow when the rapeseed and sunflowers bloom.
Man has added his imprint by building historic monuments, châteaux and churches and they are along the scenic Route Jacques Coeur. A rich and glorious past has left treasures in the wake of events that tell its story.
ALONG THE ROUTE JACQUES COEUR (most properties are open from April to November. For information, please contact Marie-France de Peyronnet, 1 rue Madame, 75006 Paris, France, 011.33.1.45.44.19.77 or Xavier de Peronnet at Chateau d’Anaiy-le-Vieil )
LA BUSSIERE—The Chateau des Pêcheurs is isolated in a lake surrounded by a park designed by Le Notre. It is an ancient fortress that was restored in the 17th century.
GIEN—The first of Loire River castles along the route was built by Anne de Beaujeu in 1484. It is the home of the International Hunting Museum.
ARGENT-SUR-SAULDRE—The current chateau built by Victor Louis replaces the one built by Marie Sully in 1501. It houses the French Museum of Trades and Traditions, together with a collection of Gien earthenware.
BLANCAFORT—The Blancafort Chateau, built by the Boucard family in the 15th century, is on the site of ancient domain of the 11th century on the banks of the Sauldre River. Transformed in the 17th century, it contains fine examples of 17th and 18th century tapestries and a lovely French garden.
LA VERRERIE—The elegant Renaissance residence was built by Beraud Stuart of Scotland. The park contains a lake and forests. (contact Comte et Comtesse A. de Vogüe, Chateau de la Verrerie, Oizon – 18700 Aubigny sur Nère, France)
MAUPAS—Built in the 16th century, the chateau has mementos of the Duchess of Berry who lived there.
JUSSY-CHAMPGNE—Built in the 17th century under Louis XII, it is a model of brick and stone architecture in Berry. The two remarkable, arched, courtyard galleries are attributed to Berry native Claude Lejuge. In the 18th century, the ancestors of the current owners enhanced the apartments with paneling and piers while preserving the dining room’s magnificent 17th century, finely sculpted stone fireplace. There’s a collection of period garments.
MEILLANT—Prestigious Renaissance ensemble of rooms, including a grand salon, dining room and library sumptuously furnished. This chateau is remarkably beautiful.
NOIRLAC—A Cistercian Abbey, restored to perfection.
AINAY-LE-VIEL—A truly unique experience, the multi-period chateau has it all—from a feudal surrounding wall and moat, to Renaissance salons and an antique rose garden to the incomparable company of Countess de Peyronnet for a luncheon in her dining room.
Sparkling Wine Program Presented for SJE's Tasters My delightful friend, Carla Nickols, presented a fun and informative program on sparkling wines which featured Champagne Charles Heidsieck, Champagne Piper Heidsieck, Piper Sonoma Sparkling wine and others. The presentation included, among other things, serving suggestions; history; a glossary; description of grapes, soils, vineyards, production method and bottle sizes; styles, and definition of important terms. Following the information there was a blind tasting of nine wines that compared styles, flavors, bubbles and so forth. Everyone raved about Carla's presentation and she's promised to return for another of my tasting groups. We're looking forward to it!!
Austin Restaurants, Jeffrey's and Shoreline Grill JEFFREY’S, 1204 West Lynn Street, 512/447-5584, SHORELINE GRILL, 98 San Jacinto Blvd., 477-3300 (Eclectic menu and views of Town Lake.)
I’m delighted that eating is mandatory. As mentioned in my book (SHARING is UNNATURAL), I’m planning lunch while I finish breakfast.Austin wasn’t always the best place to live for a large selection of fine restaurants. The 1990s changed that fact with a majority of stunning eating emporiums being created. Even before then, however, some Austin restaurateurs had fortuitous insight. As Jeffrey’s brochure records, "A passion for friendship, food and wine fed the genesis of Jeffrey’s restaurant."
Jeffrey Weinberger and Peggy and Ron Weiss, who enjoy a 25-year-relationship, met while attending the University of Texas at Austin. They formed a partnership in 1975 and have established two of Austin’s finest dining experiences—Jeffrey’s and Shoreline Grill.
"We pooled our interests, talents and enthusiasm with three other pals to open an intimate neighborhood bistro like those we’d encountered in our travels," Peggy says. "Jeffrey’s became part of the first wave of new American cuisine in the 1980s. It’s evolved into a superb dining room. We like to say that Jeffrey’s is distinguished by a homegrown glamour that combines casual, understated elegance with a serious kitchen and sophisticated dishes."
Friendly service is another plus. It begins when Manager Jim Laine greets me warmly at the door. I’ve had the pleasure of dining at Jeffrey’s for 20 years and I still have the same waiter. Not many places can claim that kind of loyalty. Part of it, no doubt, comes from being able to serve Chef David Garrido’s exemplary dishes.
Chef Garrido, son of a Mexican diplomat, was born in Canada, grew up in Mexico, Puerto Rico and Costa Rico, and was schooled in Switzerland—which explains his worldly palate. He became Jeffrey’s executive chef in 1991, originating a culinary style that blends Southwest and Latin tastes masterfully with a continental technique that pairs beautifully with wine. A Parisian girlfriend introduced him to the high art of French cooking when he visited her in Paris. That’s when he decided he wanted to be a chef. Back in Texas, David worked for two of Texas’ most noteworthy chefs: Bruce Alden of Biga in San Antonio and Stephen Pyles of Star Canyon in Dallas..
"Of all the talented chefs," Stephen Pyles remarks, "who have run my kitchen, no one has ever shown a greater depth of passion and knowledge than David. An intuitive chef composes menus like symphonies, so individual ingredients come together in harmonious blends and vibrant explosions of flavors. David is just such a chef."
The Jeffrey’s menu is a delight. For a beginning course try the Sherry Corn Chowder, Wild Sorrel & Smoked Salmon, the Crispy Oysters on Yucca Root Chips with Habanero Honey Aïoli or (I’m tempted to say and) the Fois Gras with Cannelli Bean Crostini, Mangos & 100-Year-Old Balsamic. Entrees are magical: Hawaiian Ono & Dungeness Crab with Spinach Risotto & Mango Guajillo Salsa, or Herb Crusted Halibut with Pepper Linguine, Mushrooms, & Leek Champagne Sauce, or Ribeye with Sweet Potato Stuffed Poblano & Horseradish Onion Sauce or Lamb T-Bone with Eggplant Ricotta Tart & Porcini Marsala Sauce. Take a crowd and try them all. And, save room for the Warm Huckleberry Cake with Rum Macadamia Ice Cream or Jeffrey's Coffee Crème Brûlée with Chocolate Hazelnut Biscotti & Espresso Beans.
Factor in extra time to peruse the wine menu—275 wines. Ron has created a wine list that receives annual awards from The Wine Spectator—and has been doing so since 1991. Red wines number 125 with 39 imported, white wines number 114 with 36 imported. The list includes 27 sparkling wines—four from California and eight dessert wines. There’s a reserve list (with 48 total) for those who want to spend between $105 and $300 for a bottle of California wine and up to $425 for a Bordeaux Grand Crus. Most diners, however, will be pleased to see Caymus Conundrum $48, Murphy-Goode Sauvignon Blanc $27, Jekel Gravelstone Chardonnay $25, Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay $64, Alexander Valley Vineyards or the Chateau Souverain Merlot $37, Acacia Carneros Pinot Noir $46, Peterson Dry Creek Zinfandel $38, R.H. Phillips EXP Syrah $42, and Clos du Val Napa Cabernet Sauvignon $52. And you can enjoy a bottle of Champagne Perrier Jouët NV Brut for $60 and Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin NV Brut for $62.
With Jeffrey’s up and running to a standing-room crowd, the team turned their eyes toward a defunct lake restaurant property. The result was Shoreline Grill.
In the heart of Austin, Shoreline is on the Town Lake portion of the Colorado River and owes part of its popularity to location. There just seems to be something mesmerizing about water. Whether it’s a lake, river, ocean, pond or pool, people love to be close to water. Finding unique dining in a thriving downtown area by the water is one attraction for locals as well as visitors. And while the setting may entice diners initially, it’s the food that merits their return.Jeff Weinberger agrees. "We’ve worked hard for our good reputation. After studying the number of customers we had to turn away, we increased our space at Shoreline to include private meeting facilities. As with our other diners, our goal is to make certain your business or entertainment events turn out beautifully. We stay busy."
Shoreline Grill attracts tourists and conventioneers and the satisfied customers have spread the good news. Austin dwellers share the enthusiasm.
"Just look!" says one guest. "Austinites spend a lot of time outdoors, and this balcony dining is the best of both worlds. Views are important, but Austin has many of them so excellent food has to cinch the deal. The Prime Rib is the best in Austin."Chef Dan Haverty explained his philosophy about food.
"We prepare food in the classical method with a contemporary presentation," Dan says. "Representative dishes are our prime rib, fresh fish and Parmesan Chicken."
By popular demand, the Parmesan Chicken has stayed on the menu since Shoreline opened. I must say, I’m partial to the dish--always deliciously moist and flavorful. Selected dishes, including the specials, show how the sauces accentuate Southwest and Texas cuisine; such as the chicken fried steak with its creamy topping and the guajillo-sauced prime-rib enchiladas.
Shortcuts aren’t used at Shoreline. Dan says all their sauces get particular attention. For example, Dan makes chicken velouté with fresh chicken stock to garnish the chicken fried steak—not your run-of-the-mill gravy.
"Many restaurants use canned stock because it’s quicker and easier," Dan says. "But when you throw away the chicken stock and bones, you toss out the flavor. All our sauces are made from scratch. We cook our demi-glace for 36 hours. Our dishes have inherent flavors complemented with regional ingredients—for example, ancho chillis and cajeta (goats milk caramel)."
Dan likes to call his food "Texas Interior."
"By that I mean that the end product has our Austin stamp," Dan says. "We’re in one of the most dynamic cities in America and one of the country’s fastest growing high tech areas. We use local products—like Mozzarella Company cheeses, Gulf shrimp, Texas blue crab, etc. But we’ll order out of state for the best, freshest product."
Shoreline Grill is enjoyed by Austin's business community, out-of-towners and anyone interested in elegant, relaxed dining.
For a starter, try Pecan Smoked Mozzarella & Sundried Tomato Relish—genuine smoked flavors enhanced by the tasty tomato relish, or the Potato Crusted Shrimp with Ancho Barbecue Sauce—this crust puts real crispiness around the crunch of plump shrimp on a bed of shredded napa cabbage tossed with basil serrano aioli, such a delicous touch. As an entrée is the Parmesan Crusted Chicken—always succulent, or the Grilled Tuna with Corn Noodles and Cranberry Serrano Sauce. Then there are Pastry Chef Alba Estenoz’ irresistible desserts. I’ve eaten all of them. Anything you choose will be delightful: Crème Brûlée with Vanilla Bean Flecks, the Chocolate Intemperance--layers of Grand Marnier dark chocolate mousse and milk chocolate mousse over a layer of chocolate and hazelnut cake or Coconut & Mocha Cake or Orange, Cinnamon & Chocolate Dome.
The wine list has many fine choices to accompany your meal, and there’s a full bar to satisfy any other beverage preferences.
Eclectic and healthy, the menu at Shoreline overflows with style and flavor.
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