The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 38th Edition

January 11, 2001

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)

 

Varietal: PORT, for a great Valentine's Day--and remember the chocolates!  (please see information below)

RAMOS PINTO: Founded in 1880, the wood-aged ports of Ramos-Pinto are blended from several vintages and several quintas. Unlike the majority of port shippers, Ramos-Pinto owns almost all its own vineyards and controls grape quality from pruning to harvest. After fermentation, the wines make the voyage down the Douro River to Vila Nova de Gaia, where they are aged in wood casks from three to seven years before being bottled and shipped.Founded in 1880 by brothers Adriano and Antonio, Ramos-Pinto is run today by the heirs of these two energetic siblings. Acquired by the House of Louis Roederer in 1990, Ramos-Pinto cultivates 460 acres of prime vineyards in Portugal's famed Douro region. The vines grow on steep, rocky slopes rising at 30° to 70°.    These seemingly difficult conditions are actually favorable to the vegetative cycle of the vine and perfect maturation of the grapes.   Unlike many Port producers, Ramos-Pinto owns most of its vineyards, giving it a high degree of control over viticultural methods and harvest time. Famous for vintage ports and single-quinta tawnies from the vineyards of Bom Retiro and Ervamoira, Ramos-Pinto also produces two exceptional red table wines from the Ervamoira and Bons Ares properties under the Duas Quintas label.       PORTO SUPERIOR TAWNY:  Ramos Pinto's wood-aged ports are blended from several vintages and several quintas. Unlike the majority of port shippers, Ramos-Pinto owns almost all its own vineyards and controls grape quality from pruning to harvest. After fermentation, the wines make the voyage down the Douro River to Vila Nove de Gaia, where they are aged in wood casks for three to seven years before being bottled and shipped. Ready to be enjoyed immediately, they do not require further bottle aging.     Winemaking Notes;  Appellation: Porto Origin: Douro Valley, Portugal;  Varietals: Tinta Roriz and Tinto Cao; Aging: Aged about four years in traditional wooden pipes before bottling.   Tasting Notes: The Ramos-Pinto Superior Tawny is a deep brick-red color gained from extended time in oak.  Intense fruit aromas with a first impression of  lightness and heat, evolving into a rich smoothness gained from wood aging. Ready to drink upon release, this is a well-matured port, fruity, with a fine flavored, dry finish.    Serving Suggestions
A light, open wine, the Ramos-Pinto Tawny should be drunk cool in warm weather, at room temperature in cooler climates (generally between 16-20° C; 60-68° F). Wonderful as an apéritif or with a not too sweet dessert or cheese plate. Exquisite with melons or Rocquefort cheese.      PORTO FINE RUBY :  Ramos-Pinto's wood-aged ports are blended from several vintages and several quintas. Unlike the majority of port shippers, Ramos-Pinto owns almost all its own vineyards and controls grape quality from pruning to harvest. After fermentation, the wines make the voyage down the Douro River to Vila Nova de Gaia, where they are aged in wood casks for three to seven years before being bottled and shipped. Ready to be enjoyed immediately , they do not require further bottle age.   Winemaking notes:  Appellation: Porto Origin:  Origin: Douro Valley, Portugal;  Principally Touriga Francesco and Tinta Barroca, two varietals that produce a beautiful, lively color.    Aging: Aged three years in large chestnut casks. Contact with the air is minimized to prevent oxidation and preserve the wine's youthful ruby-red hue. This method of maturation also retains the wine's deep fruit aromas and flavors, allowing it to be both velvety and youthful.     Tasting Notes: The Ramos-Pinto Ruby has a much denser, redder color than the Tawny. A cornucopia of aromas greet the nose: cherry, blackberry, plum, raspberry. In the mouth it is fresh, vibrant and fruity; its attack is much more voluminous than the Tawny's, due to its youthfulness. The finish is persistent and aromatic, leaving fruit flavors on the palate.   Serving Suggestions:   Considering its freshness, fruit and body, this wine should be drunk at an ambient temperature (between 16-20° C; 60-68° F). It is most wonderful with cheese and biscuits, or sweet desserts that are not acidic.     VINTAGE PORTO 1997:    Founded in 1880, Ramos-Pinto is a unique port producer owning extensive vineyards in the most favored sites of the Douro region. This allows it to have total control of grape production for its exclusive vintage ports.   In the making of a vintage port, the finest wines of the Quintas are selected, Bom Retiro and Ervamoira, to create a full-bodied, intensely fruity and complex wine. The total ripeness of the grapes produces a particular style of port without the hard tones of less ripe tannins. The fruit characteristics and velvety texture will make it appealing in its youth, while the ripe tannin structure will preserve it for development over the next 20-30 years.
The 1997 vintage is a wine of complete ripeness, good acidity, tannin and concentration. The growing season consisted of a sunny winter, adverse weather in spring, and favorable, sunny growing conditions in summer. While there were some weather difficulties, Ramos-Pinto fared well. The 1997 vintage will start to reach maturity in 10-15 years.    The Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Barroca and Roriz; Aging: Approximately 18 months in oak or chestnut casks; Tasting Notes:  Beautiful violet shades still opaque as the wine is in its first stages of maturation.   Elegant floral notes with hints of rose and black cherry.   Smooth, well-balanced attack. Robust tannins endow the wine with hints of ripe fruit, showing plenty of promise for good aging.   Serving Suggestions: This wine is best served after standing upright for at least two hours and decanted. Best served with cheese at the end of a meal.
A. A. CALEM: Founded in 1859 by Antonio Alves Cálem who dedicated the first years of his company to producing and shipping Port wines to Brazil and Europe using Portuguese-owned clippers.  In time, the House of Cálem diversified its markets and today sells its wines bottled at the origin to more than 30 different countries. The House produces Port wines as well as still wine from the Douro and Dão Demarcated Wine Regions of Portugal.  A. A. Cálem is one of the most important brands in Portugal and one of the largest Port Houses in the trade.
OLD FRIENDS FINE TAWNY PORTO
:  Producer: A. A. Cálem & Filho, s.a., Country: Portugal, Origin: Douro Demarcated Region
Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa and Tinto Cão
Description: A semi-sweet wine blended from a selection of the best tawnies aged in oak casks at the Cálem cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia
Serving Hints: Should be served at room temperature or slightly chilled in summer
:  Producer: A. A. Cálem & Filho, s.a., Country: Portugal, Origin: Douro Demarcated Region
Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa and Tinto Cão
Description: A semi-sweet wine blended from a selection of the best tawnies aged in oak casks at the Cálem cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia
Serving Hints: Should be served at room temperature or slightly chilled in summer

OLD FRIENDS FINE RUBY PORTO: Producer: A. A. Cálem & Filho, s.a., Country: Portugal, Origin: Douro Demarcated Region
Grape Varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinto Cão
Description: Attractive, young and semi-sweet wine with a very agreeable character. Aged in oak casks in Cálem cellars at Vila Nova de Gaia.
Serving Hints: Combines well with dried fruits, cheeses and desserts

FICKLIN  PORTS: Founded in 1946 in Madera County and created in the Portuguese tradition, Ficklin's Port is widely acclaimed as one of California's finest.
Walter C. Ficklin and his wife Mame purchased the present acreage in 1918, but didn't make the transition from raisins and fruit until after World War II.   The University of California at Davis tested grapes for Port udner California growign conditions during the 1930s and '40s.  The San Joaquin Valley showed promise and Walter Ficklin, Sr. became interested.   In 1946, Walter and his sons Walter, Jr. and David decided to make wine--producing only Port--and to keep the enterprise a small family operation.       Walter, Jr. became the vineyardist while his brother David studied Fermentation Science at U.C. Davis and built the winery.  Marketing the first few hundred cases in the early '50s  was largely a matter of capturing buyer's interest. Walter, Sr. had many connections in the fruit market and, with his sons busy in production, he took over the sales and marketing of the new wine. Buildings were added in the '60s and '70s.     In the early 70's the third generation of Ficklins joined the family business.   Steven took over as vineyardist when his father, Walter, Jr., retired.    In 1984, Peter, David's son, became the master vinter and in 1991 he became the President.  . David remained active as a consultant until his death in 1998. David's wife, Jean, continues to serve as a director of the corporation and works with Susan, Peter's wife, in the office.      Today, Ficklin's vineyards cover  35 acres.  
Ficklin Vineyards produces California port wines exclusively.
    In the production of the NV (non- vintage) Tinta Port,   60% to 80% of the blend is Tinta Madeira, 2% to 10% is Tinta Cao, Touriga and Souzao each constitute 10% to 25% of the final blend.
Vintage Releases
Periodically, Ficklin Vineyards has produced several Vintage Ports, or limited bottlings. These include the 1951, 1953, 1957, 1980, 1983, 1986 and 1988 Vintage Ports. For more information: http://www.ficklin.com/
Aged 10 Year Tawny Port:  Peter has established a 160 barrel Solera system to produce this special Port, featuring the Tinta Madeira and Touriga grape varietals. Ten years in American oak barrels allow the wine and wood to blend, developing the wine’s smoothness, fruit flavors and long finish.   Only Portuguese grape varietals, grown in the winery's estate vineyards, are used in the production of Ficklin ports.
The House of Martinez: "MARTINEZ grows wine in Portugal where one of the world’s most celebrated wines is created.    "Some say the best Porto comes from grapes that can hear the river flowing. All agree that the Douro Valley is home to noble, ancient vines. Roman feet trod grapes here; fifteenth-century kings toasted with its fragrant wine; and in time, the British, who loved it most of all, spread Porto’s fame throughout the world. Now, one of the oldest names in the Douro—Martinez—is at last available in America, offering a whole new generation a taste of rare, hand-crafted wines.       "Portugal demarcated the Douro region in 1761, designating land sixty miles inland from Oporto, measuring sixty-seven miles long and at most, 15.6 miles wide as the exact boundaries of the Douro region.   Only wines produced in the valley’s three districts could be called Porto—the Upper Douro, east of Tua, being considered the finest of all.    It is here that the Port house of Martinez Gassiot was established in 1790. New vineyards at Vilarica have inspired many of Martinez’ newest innovations: soil analysis, varietal clones, pruning, vinification techniques, and pioneering a research nursery at Tourao (the first of its kind in Portugal), near the vineyards to explore virus-free rootstock, block planting methods, and higher quality’ yield growing techniques.  For 200 years, Martinez has been blending tradition and science."     "In 1937, the Douro’s vineyards were rigorously graded according to geographical position, elevation and slope, soil profile, grape variety and climate.  A-rated vineyards are allowed to produce up to 600 liters of Porto per thousand vines. F-rated vineyards may only produce table wine. Martinez vineyards are all A-rated.    "Martinez is one of the few Porto producers to have its own cooperage, where 20,000 casks (pipes) and large vats are repaired and reconditioned. Every cask carries a cooper’s identification, and only the same cooper who built the cask or his student may repair it." FINE RUBY, FINE TAWNY, LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE, VINTAGE PORT, QUINTA DA CHOUSA, QUINTA EIRA VELHA, 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY, 20-YEAR-OLD TAWNY and MASTER’S RESEVE are Martinez products.

DELAFORCE Port, Quinta da Corte--Single vineyard port from a very good or declared vintage, decanting required.     Six generations of the Delaforce family have called Portugal’s Douro Valley Home. The first arrived from England in 1834 and son, George founded the Delaforce port firm in 1868. Delaforce style is characterized as "rich, elegant and fruity," –admired for its consistency, and earning numerous international awards.     The jewel in the Delaforce crown is the spectacular Quinta da Corte estate. This splendid, 90-acres of 25 to 30 year-old vines (dating to the 1700s) forms the backbone for their premium Reserve Tawnys and Vintage ports. Probably the most photographed location in the entire Douro Valley, it is Delaforce’s principal source of grapes. TASTING NOTES: Sensational, rich, full-bodied with a notable robust character.    DELAFORCE Port, His Eminence’s Choice:   Production: Blend of select reserves aged in oak for 6-30 years, overall aging 10 years. Aging: Immediate enjoyment, excellent with food.   Decanting: Not required  TastingNotes: Soft, mellow and succulent, rich rounded fruit.

 Croft Port, Quinta da Roeda Single Vineyard Port: One of the oldest and most prestigious port shippers, Croft has played an integral role in the development of port. While the origins of port are firmly rooted in Portugal, its evolution owes much to enterprising English merchants like John Croft who in 1736 set sail for Oporto at the mouth of Portugal’s Douro River, there established the House that still bears his name. It was pioneers such as Croft who first set about adapting the local wine to suit the demands of a growing overseas market, creating an entirely new category, the port wines we know and love today.      The source of all port lies in northern Portugal’s remote Douro Valley. Here Croft maintains its vineyards, including Quinta da Roeda, the firm’s celebrated single-vineyard estate. Blending and aging however, takes place at Croft’s famed Terreirinho Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia at the mouth of the Douro River. One hundred and sixty yards in length, it is the longest of the town’s port lodges where visitors can taste Croft ports in the historic ambiance of this 200-year-old lodge.    Production: Made in good, but not declared vintage years. Grapes from superb vineyard of same name.    Aging: 2 years in wood. Improves in the bottle 12-15 years. Matures earlier than vintage port.   Decanting: Required. Drink within a few days.   Tasting Notes: Contains the distinctive floral notes which are Croft’s renowned "house style."    Croft Port, Distinction Old TawnyProduction: Blend of wines of several vintages, higher quality than other premium reserve ports    Aging: 8 to 10 years in wood (oak, chestnut and mahogany). Drink upon release.   Decanting: Not Required.  Tasting Notes: Premium reserve port of superior age and quality. Vigorous but silky taste. Very consistent bottle to bottle.

Sandeman:  The House of Sandeman was founded in London in 1790 by George Sandeman, a determined young Scotsman. He established a wine business specializing in Port and Sherry with a loan from his father of £300 sterling. From a modest start two hundred years ago to today's impressive lodges and bodegas in Jerez, the growth of Sandeman has been based on balancing tradition and innovation, respecting heritage but always seeking improvement.   VINEYARDS: Porto is a fortified wine produced exclusively from grapes grown in the Douro region in the north of Portugal. The proximity to the river along with the mountains and valleys, the soil of schist and selected varieties, create unique conditions that favor the creation of full-bodied, rich, intense wines that will later be carefully aged and blended. Sandeman Founder Reserve is made from grapes grown on estate vineyards, and by contracted growers in the Douro region.    VINTAGE: Except for dated wines (displaying a vintage year on the label) any style of Porto is always a selection of different, yet similar wines from several years, blended to guarantee a consistent house style and to maintain quality for the consumer. Named in honor of the Founder, this Reserve of Sandeman's greatest Port, with around five years of age is selected from the best "lots" of each vintage.  WINEMAKING: Ruby Porto is made from red grapes, naturally, rich, with very intense fruit aromas and concentrated ruby color. They present fresh red fruit aroma such as plums, strawberries and red apples. These are young wines whose basic characteristics haven't been altered by long exposure to air through the wood of oak aging casks, and have retained their primary flavors. Founders Reserve is ready to drink upon release, and does not require further bottle aging.  WINEMAKER NOTES: Founders Reserve is intense ruby red in color, brilliant and clear. Rich red fruits aromas with a hint of elegance from oak cask aging are apparent and balanced on the nose. The wine is very rich, round and full-bodied in the mouth, with intense flavors of mature red fruits and berries. Store founders Reserve upright in a cool (50°F-60°F), quiet, dry place. Serve in a tulip glass at room temperature or chilled as an aperitif. This wine is also wonderful after a meal with rich almond and egg desserts, chocolate cakes and mousses or with a selection of cheeses, especially intense, soft styles. A bottle of Founders Reserve will maintain quality up to one month after opening. 

Noval: Although the property of Quinta do Noval first apeared in land registries in 1715, its history as a premium Port produecer truly befan when it was bought and renovated by the shipper Antonio Jose da Silva.  His work was continued by his son-in-law, Luiz Vasconcelos Porto, who ran the company for three decades, transforming the old narrow terraces into the wide whitewashed ones of today--allowing better use of space and more exposure to sun.   There were several innovations which were considered revolutionary at the time, but which subsequetnly have become tradition: NOVAL was the first to introduce stencilled bottles in the 1920s; NOVAL pioneered the concept of Old Tawnies with in indication of age; In 1958, NOVAL was the first to introduce a late-bottled vintage (LBV).  QUINTA do NOVAL LB is intense, dark purple.  It has a complex nose showing youthful fruit with a raspberry character.  It is full, rounded and well structured on the palate with a full bodied and lasting finish.

GENERAL INFORMATION ON PORTO: Port is a fortified wine made from upper Douro River valley grapes. The soil and climate of this river valley are ideal for cultivating grapes for Port. Adding a small amount of neutral grape-spirit brandy to fermenting port grapes halts the fermentation process and results in a rich, naturally sweet wine of about 20% alcohol. There are 48 grape varieties authorized to produce port wine: Five are the great classic port vines—Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cão and Tinta Barrocca.

Vintage or Undeclared Vintage: A vintage port is declared by the port firm 2½ years after the harvest. This allows time to assess the wine’s potential to become the highest quality of port, then called Vintage Port.

Vintage Character Port is a superior non-vintage ruby Port, richer than basic ruby due to the addition of some vintage-caliber wine to the blend. Also know as Reserve Port.

LBV stands for "Late Bottled Vintage" Port, bottled four to six years after harvest; made for immediate enjoyment.

Ruby Port is the mainstay of the Port trade, representative of the original Port.

Tawny Port, first produced late 1800s, gets its paler color by separating the fermenting must from the grape skins at an earlier stage than ruby. Tawny is blended to accentuate the mellow berry and nut flavors found in port wines.

Late Bottled Vintage (LBV): Like Vintage Port, LBV is a wine of a single year but it is not a declared Vintage Port. Whereas Vintage Port spends only two years in cask and then matures in the bottle, LBV is aged solely in cask and then bottled at between four and six years old. At the time of bottling, it has completed its maturation and is ready for drinking without need for decanting.

Ten-Year-Old Porto is monitored carefully as it is aged in wood.

Twenty-Year-Old Porto is monitored carefully as it is aged in wood.

Vintage Port is the king of Ports, declared only in years of outstanding quality, perhaps three times a decade. Eighteen months after the harvest, the best casks of wine from the best Quintas in the Alto Douro are combined into a perfectly harmonious blend. The young wine is bottled after two years of cask aging and left to slowly mature in bottle, changing over the years. At bottling, the Port is purple, fruity and luscious. As it mellows and softens over the years, the intricate maze of subtle tastes assert themselves. Vintage Port throws a substantial sediment or "crust" in the bottle and therefore requires decanting before being served. Recent declared vintages include 1977, 1980, 1983, 1985, 1991 and 1994.

 


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NEWS

BEAULIEU VINEYARD celebrated a century in 2000.  (Please see "New Release.")

Quarterly Pocketlist Top-Rated Wines (QPL), Winter 2001, is a useful guide for selecting good wine at  reasonable prices.  QPL uses up-to-date, composite grades to evaluate wines.  Major North American wine periodicals are surveyed to supply names and awards to the handy book.  For copies $6.95, contact John Vankat: 800/524-1005

CAYMUS CEO Charlie Wagner announced that he will retain overall direction of both viticulture and winemaking at Caymus Vineyards while naming Chris Phelps as winemaker for the red wine and Jon Bolta will continue to make the white wines.

California Wine Winners 2001, The Best of the 2000 Judgings, is a 232-page paperback that gives composite award lists of 23 most popular verietals.  The wineries and their winners are listed separately.  There is also a listing of inexpensive gold medal winners.  Available at wine shops and book stores, also contact Editor J.T. Devine, P.O.Box 432, Grato, CA  95444, tel. 707/823-8795

WARREN WINIARSKI, owner of Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, is President of the 2001 International Wine & Spirits Competition--long considered among the wine and spirits industry's most prestigious international competition.

ED SBRAGIA of Beringer Wine Estates announced the purchase of Castello di Gabbiano, including the 900-year-old Tuscan wine estate, the historic castle and surrounding property and guest cottages, an ancient wine cellar, modern winery and 254 acres of land.  Ed's Italian heritage has him especially excited about this prospect.   "Over the years I've had the  privilege of working with Gabbianno's winemaker, Giancarlo Roman--a Chianti winemaker with 30 years experience.  He has taught me about the Tuscan terroir and the grapes that come from the soils and the winemaking traditions.  I've shared my experiences as a winemaker in Napa Valley.   We are both excited about the purchase and see it as a way to strengthen our winemaking alliance."

BERINGER WINE ESTATES, affirming its commitment to historic preservation, has become the first wine company to be a corporate partner of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.  BWE owns properties with distinct historical significance: Beringer Vineyards, Stags' Leap Winery, St. Clement, Chateau St. Jean and Meridian.

Wine Enthusiast named BEAULIEU VINEYARD "Winery of the Year, " recognizing BV for "making excellent wines across all styles and at all price point."

The SEBASTIANI family, in a crafted turn away from corporate mergers,  announced the return to their historical roots in Sonoma, California, with four tiers of ultra premium wines:  Sonoma County, Appellation Selection, Vineyard Selection, and Proprietary Estate (please see below).

ROBERT MONDAVI and ROSEMOUNT Estates of Australia have formed a 50/50 joint venture company and will produce and market worldwide two new wine lines in the luxury and super-premium segments--one from Australia and one from California.   They will be produced from California's 2000 and Australia's 2001 vintages and sold under a proprietary name.

BRIDLEWOOD Winery won the distinction of producing the most award-winning Syrah in 2000.

SONOMA COUNTY GRAPE GROWERS ASSOCIATION reported that in taste competitions, Sonoma County Zinfandel is consistently preferred from California: http://www.scgga.org/ 

PACIFIC STAR WINERY Owner and Winemaker Sally Ottoson was invited by Congressman Mike Thompson to host a wine tasting for the Members of Congress.

 


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NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

 

J LOHR Estates 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Seven Oaks, $14.   This delicious, fruit-forward wine remains one of my favorites.  Always well-balanced, it suits a large number of foods and is a remarkable value as well.  I recommend this wine all the time and I'm always rewarded by praises from those who buy it.

CAFARO CELLARS Winemaker/Owner Joe Cafaro has lived and worked in Napa Valley for 30 years and produces elegant wines"Many things have changed," he told me, "but not my passion for making wines."  Or for riding his BMW motorcycle.   "I ride a lot with Libby's (his wife) dad, John Shafer (owner of Shafer vineyards) --who's BMW is newer . . . but mine is faster!"  While Joe speeds on his bike, his principles about wine are steadfast and reliable.  "By keeping production low (1500 annual cases of Cabernet and 1600 of Merlot), I can focus on the highest quality grapes and the most hands-on winemaking techniques.  My passion is to produce the style of wines I love to drink--balanced, elegant wines that have complete continuity from their strong, seductive aromas, large but not overpowering middles, on through to a finish that lingers-- wines that complement meals but aren't meals in themselves."  I guess those  wines must be the sort that I like too, because CAFARO wines are among my favorites too. 

CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE, Columbia Valley, Washington,  makes sparkling wines as delicious as its other products.  If you are looking for a light and crisp, reasonably-priced bubbly--here it is!

CHARLES KRUG, Peter Mondavi Family,  has a well-established reputation for its fine wines.

ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 1999 Chardonnay $15, is made from a variety of clones growing on diverse sites of the Wetzel Family Estate--45% fermented in a selection of new, one and two-year French oak which underwent malolactic and then aged in barrel 8 months.  ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 1999 Pinot Noir $18 comes from a five-acre block on the Estate.  Winemaker Kevin Hall cold-soaked a portion of the grapes for two days.  The barrel regimen was  95%French and 5% American--25% new.  Only 2,100 cases made.  ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 1999 Sin Zin $20 is blended with 14% sangiovese.  It was aged 10 months in 75% American and 25% French barrels.  Enjoy these tasty wines.

The SEBASTIANI family, in a crafted turn away from corporate mergers,  announced the return to their historical roots in Sonoma, California, with four tiers of ultra premium wines:  Sonoma County--created in a classic handcrafted style showcasing the soft, lush fruit style distinctive of Sonoma County; the Appellation Selection--highlights distinctive characteristics of the sub-appellation grapes and are   produced only when the fruit merits this special wine;  Vineyard Selection--comes exclusively from stellar vines and highlights ultra-rich varietal character of unique microclimates and soils of these vineyards; and Proprietary Estate--signature luxury wines from only exceptional fruit.

CLOS DU BOIS' Appellation Reserve Series represents 25 years of crafted elegance, Winemaker Margaret Davenport tells me.  "They are soft and supple wines that showcase the best of Sonoma County," she says.  "Over the years, our winemaking team has become intimately familiar with the subtle nuances of the fruit grown here."  CLOS DU BOIS Sonoma County Classic Wines are consumer favorites.  They reflect the winery's accessible and elegant winemaking style--showcasing the extraordinary fruit grown in Sonoma County.

CLOS DU BOIS SONOMA COUNTY WINES

CHATEAU ST. JEAN 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cepages Sonoma County $50 is available for your pleasure--and pleasure it is, indeed.  Winemaker Steve Reeder said, "To me, this wine exemplifies the true art of blending.   Blending is a great game of mystery, unveiling endless possibilities.  My associate Margo and I start with a model--75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot.  We take the model and separately make blends, and come back to the table to taste one another's blends and work until we agree on one.   We had tons of fun making this wine--75/13/7/3/and 2% of the above mentioned wines.   It's blueberries, violets, black cherry notes, elegant round tannins, blackberries, chocolate, plums, tobacco and roasty oak with a long finish."

CHATEAU ST. JEAN 1999 Pinot Noir Sonoma County $16--"Hand-picking and gentle fruit handling are key to great Pinot Noir production.   Rose petals, cranberries, cherries and brown spice aromas and on the palate, there are plums, cassis and leather notes surround soft supple tannins that finish with a hint of roasted oak."

BRANCOTT VNEYARDS has developed three distinct tiers of expression for the wines of New Zealand: accessible, delicious BRANCOTT Varietal Wines, handcrafted BRANCOTT Reserve Wines and the ultimate BRANCOTT Estate Wines.  Elsewhere, the El Nino of 1998 seemed to provide plenty to complain about, but in New Zealand, vintners experienced long, dry weather patterns resulting in ideal grape growing conditions.   The yield was very high and the quality terrific.  Winemaker Jeff Clarke says," The grapes from all regions were some of the finest fruit ever harvested."

DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 1998 Meritage Sonoma County $28--"DCV has once again set sail, and what a beautiful vessel she is!  A stylish blend, this wine exhibits aromas of cedar, tobacco and black cherries with hints of herbs.  With flavors of juicy berries and cassis, this elegant wine layers fruit accents onto chocolate and mint notes.  Full in the mouth, soft tannins combine with sweet vanillin oak.   The finish is memorable; smooth and round with a lingering earthiness.   Excellent depth and balance make this wine exceptionally drinkable now, but the wine will also age gracefully--up to eight years."

STONE CREEK WINES, one of California's largest negotiants, benefits from long-term contracts.  Owned by the fifth generation Jacobs family company, Simon Levi announced the release of its 1998 Chairman's Reserve Merlot, $17, and two new vintages of its Special Selection line of California appellation wines, 1999 Chardonnay $8 and 1998 Zinfandel $8.  These two wines compete in the dynamic category of popular premium wines where they established their reputation early on by helping to pioneer the development of value price Merlots. 

BONTERRA Vineyards Winemaker Bob Blue says these wines showcase the latest efforts with organic grape-growing in Mendocino County.

BUENA VISTA 1999 Sauviginon Blanc $9--"Clean and crisp flavors of melon, pear and slight wintergreen mint typify this refreshing wine.  Exceptionally well balanced and integrated, a benchmark for true varietal character."

BEAULIEU VINEYARD (BV) celebrated its 100th year in 2000--of making exceptionally fine wines, I might add.  When Georges de Latour founded BV in 1900, on an unimproved four-acre lot in the tiny town of Rutherford, he had a single vision: to bring world-class wine to America.  As it turned out, he not only made better wine - he revolutionized the whole process. He and master winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff (1938) pioneered aging wine in small oak barrels. When French oak became unavailable during World War II, they collaborated with local coopers to craft the proper American oak barrels for aging wine.   Winemaker Joel Aiken, at the helm since 1986, is taking BV in new directions while preserving his predecessors high standards.   He possesses an innovative spirit and an impressive expertise in oak aging and is proud to continue BV's tradition of fine wines.  Classic BVs have satisfied a constant and growing audience.  Additionally, there's the newer line of reasonably priced wines--BV Coastals.  These current wines are some of the best ever.    The winemakers produce these wines with the same sense of style and attention to detail as the Reserve wines.   They are enjoyable young, with a distinctive personality that reveal freshness and intensity that's affordable.   You'll be pleased you tried them.  http://www.bvwines.com/

FAR NIENTE, one of California's oldest wineries,  was founded in 1885 by John Benson.  The winery flourished until Prohibition when it was abandoned and fell into disrepair.   The stone shell of a winery was purchased in 1979 by Gil Nickel to create a world class wine estate in the Napa Valley.  During restoration, the original name, Far Niente (translated to "without a care") was found on the front of the building carved in stone.   Owner Gil Nickel says, "We felt an obligation to preserve the name in the hopes that we could recapture a bygone era when life was indeed without a care."
      
Far Niente's  philosophy of distinctive wine character requires vineyard ownership; consequently,  many variables affecting continuity of style, character and quality are controlled.   Through the search, Far Niente has acquired 235 acres regarded as some of the finest vineyard land in Napa Valley.
Stelling Vineyard:  100 acres,  Far Niente's largest estate vineyard in the west hills of Oakville.  These soils are responsible for Napa Valley's most memorable and age worthy Cabernets.   Nickel and Nickel Vineyard: This  vineyard,  near the northern boundary of the Oakville appellation,  has four varieties ~ Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc. The wines of this vineyard have a typically delicate grace, structure and elegance.   Carpenter Vineyard: Produces wonderful Chardonnay and also grows Far Niente's latest ripening Cabernet--distinguished by its deep color and power.    Barrow Lane Vineyard: Produces wines with a tight fruit structure. It's ideal as a blending component--giving backbone and length.   John's Creek Vineyard: This vineyard  is a key component in the Chardonnay blend, adding richness, subtle tropical flavors and aromas  long associated with Far Niente Chardonnays.
    FAR NIENTNE 1997 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon ($100): "After extensive fruit tasting, each vineyard block is hand harvested. The fruit is hand sorted again at the winery.  The final blend is assembled after each lot is carefully analyzed for contributions.   The young wine ages 18-20 months in 75% to 100% new French oak barrels.  It's racked every three months to remove the clear wine from its sediment.  After a year in   barrel, egg- white fining further softens and clarifies the wine, resulting in classically structured Cabernets--softly textured, rich flavor, complex and long.   The wine displays the cassis and blackberry notes and spicy oak aromas synonymous with Far Niente. 
    FAR NIENTE 1998 Estate Bottled Chardonnay is a classic.    A thousand details converge to create the Far Niente "house style"-- wines rich in aroma, flavor, and texture, yet balanced with a graceful finesse.   Wines from  various Chardonnay estates are blended for the style, offering youthful fresh fruit and a marvelous finish; with time, they reveal the wine's complex nature, added texture, richness, weight, and depth. 
      DOLCE  (pronounced dol'chay) was inspired by the romantic Italian phrase "Dolce Far Niente" (sweet doing nothing).    Vintages of this sweet late harvest wine are unique.  DOLCE is the only Napa Valley producer devoted exclusively to
producing a single late harvest wine.   Winemaker Dirk Hampson says, "It is the first world class American dessert wine and the benchmark against which all others will be judged in the future.  Dolce cannot be made every year.   In 1985, our efforts yielded 6 barrels.    Only 9 barrels were produced in 1986. The wine in 1987 was not fine enough to be Dolce, while 1988 was so warm, that no botrytis formed and no grapes were ever harvested. The weather conditions must be perfect to produce Dolce, therefore, the risks are immense.   We have planted 20 acres of estate Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc vineyards that will allow us to further refine our focus on quality, while eventually increasing production to as much as 2,000 cases in a strong year.  The 1989 came to market in 1992 as our first commercial release - an incredible seven years after we started chasing the dream of creating one of the world's great late harvest wines in the Napa Valley."  It is worth the searach and price, $75 for a 375 ml bottle.   http://www.farniente.com/

                     

HOGUE CELLARS Winemaker David Forsyth says the Washington 2000 vintage started with unseasonably average weather and then September turned unseasonably cool--stretching the harvest to eight weeks.  Consequently, very good flavors developed with crisp acidity in whites and reds, great color and mature tannins.  So while he puts away to rest the new vintage, he'll be enjoying the old ones.  So can you.

                     

McDOWELL VALLEY VINEYARDS has a new label and has changed its premier Syrah from "Estate" to "Reserve." The delightful and delicious wine, however, is still the same.

                     

                   GALLO of SONOMA has news of several wines and events, such as sponsoring a television series of award-winning "Kitchen Sessions with Chef Charlie Trotter."  At the International Wine Challenge 2000, Gallo of Sonoma earned 23 awards, including a gold medal for the 1996 Northern Sonoma Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon.  In addition, also won were seven medals at the International Wine & Spirits Competition, 19 medals at the Dallas Morning News Competition and 22 medals at the New World International Wine Competition.  New releases include the following wines.

                     

CHARLES KRUG Peter Mondavi Family Winery produces some really nice wines at a great value under the CK MONDAVI label.  Here are some.

                     

ZACA MESA  has released wines that represent important components of its estate program--emphasis on Rhone varietals and Chardonnay.  As a Rhone pioneer in Santa Barbara County with the first local plantings of Syrah in 1979, ZACA MESA now grows and produces a number of Rhone varietals and has selected the following wines for your pleasure.  Enjoy!

                     

BRANCOTT VINEYARDS received an exciting accolade when Master Chef Jacques Pepin selected the BRANCOTT Reserve Sauvignon Blanc to include in his TV Valentine show--paired with Mussel Souffle.  While BRANCOTT ESTATE  wines reflect the unique terrior of a few premium acres, the RESERVE wines are vintner selected, perfectly ripened fruit from a range of prime vineyards available to Winemaker Jeff Clarke.   The fruit for the 1999 Reserves below comes from Marlborough on the Northeastern tip of New Zealand's South Island.  Temperatures during the growing season seldom rise above 65 degees and contribute to the slow ripening process.

                                     

FOREST GLEN WINERY has released a couple of ample red wines.  They have recipes for Pan-Roasted Lamb Chops and Prime Rib of Beef  by Chef Gary Jenanyan if you'd like them.  Contact winekid@aol.com

                     

SALMON HARBOR announced that 1999 turned out to be another in a string of great vintages in Washington.  The Merlot and Chardonnay represent its intense ripe fruit character and flavor.  The wines are made under Consulting Winemaker Tom Eddy's protocols at Hogue Cellars and represents great value.

                     

ST.FRANCIS has released two wines produced from 100% Sonoma County grapes grown on the estate and growers' vineyards.

                     

RODNEY STRONG Winemaker Rick Sayre says, "When you have access to so many fine vineyards, the desire to make a wine in the true essence of a Reserve is an engaging undertaking."  So, he has made the 1996 RODNEY STRONG Cabernet Sauvignon $40.  "It's like skimming the cream from the milk, or the best grapes from the best lots within the best vineyard locations--from elevation at 1100 feet to the loamy soils at the edge of Russian River."  This is truly a winemaker's wine.   It has already won two gold medals.  You better get two or three bottles.

                     

LAKE SONOMA WINERY specializes in Zinfandels from the Dry Creek Valley and had released the LAKE SONOMA 1998 ZINFANDEL $15--a wine artfully blended with Cinsault, Cabernet and Merlot.  Barrel aged for 19 months, it offers balance, flavors of cherry, black berry and black pepper and a bright acidity that makes it hearty enough for venison or rack of lamb.

                     

                     

                     

                     

VILLA MT. EDEN Winemaker Mike McGrath produces three styles of wine: Coastal, Grand Reserve and Signature Series.  Each one offers distinct characteristics yet share a commitment to clear varietal expression.

                     

CONN CREEK has released two wines.  The 1997 vintage signifies the debut vintage under Winemaker Tom Montgomery for the Anthology and Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon.  Complex, focused and intense are words often used to describe CONN CREEK Anthology, but equally applicable to Tom.  He crafts his wines in a classic Bordeaux style, with a touch of Napa Vllaey magic.

                     

FETZER Vineyards finally wrapped up harvest on November 8, 2000.   And, in spite of inconsistent weather and very slow ripening, the product experienced an overall quality that was very good across the board.   The first harvest of the new millennium also marked the inaugural crush at Fetzer's Central Coast winery in Paso Robles.  In keeping iwth Fetzer's policy of consideration, the innovative design features preserves teh freshness and quality of the fruit and sustainable building practices are employed to save energy and the environment.    Additionally, FETZER is kicking off a "makeover" of its Premium Varietal wine package.  Happily, the wines remain delicious and an excellent value.

                     

HERITAGE ROAD announced that the Aussies have scrapped their original 2025 long-term marketing plan--seems the 1996 sales goal was achieved in four years.   Driving the popularity of Australina wines are Chardonnay and Shiraz.  The new HERITAGE ROAD 1999 Hunter Valley Chardonnay epitomizes the style that American consumers now crave: rich, ripe, opulent fruit with oak-spice complexity and a fat mouthfeel--at a reasonable price, $13.  Try it, you'll like it!

                     


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