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The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 37th Edition
October 28, 2000
TOP PICKS
FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
Australian:
Time to think Sparkling Wines for Holidays!
Beringer Wine Estates (BWE), which is majority owned by the Texas Pacific Group, reached an agreement to be acquired by Foster's Brewing Group Limited of Australia valued at approximately $1.2 billion or $55.75 per share. The acquisition will combine BWE with Foster's wine subsidiary, Mildara Blass Ltd., to create the largest premium wine company in the world.
Washington State University and the Washington wine industry announced plans to develop a world-class teaching, research and extension program in viticulture and enology in Washington. Initial funding will come from the state's wine industry.
The Ninth Annual Bon Appétit Magazine Winery of the Year is Kendall-Jackson, awarded at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, by winning 21 medals for 12 distinct varietals--more medal points than any of the other 659 wineries entered--including Golds for the Grand Reserve Pinot Noir, Vintner's Reserve® Cabernet Sauvignon and Vintner's Reserve® Chenin Blanc, all 1997s. A total of 2,783 wines represented 16 countries and 22 American states.2000 cork harest is the best in years, according to Jochen Michalski, president of Cork Supply USA, the nation's largest provider of premium natural cork wine stoppers. The combined output in the two largest producing countries--Portugal and Spain--should yield 250,000 tons of cork bark.
Barton & Guestier has a new web site: www.bartonguestierwine.com
Winery owner Thomas Fogarty donated his award of $500,000 for his contributions to surgical innovation to future medical research.
Beaulieu Vineyards celebrated its 100th anniversary by taking a record number of top awards at six national and international competitions: Orange County Fair, 11 medals; San Francisco International Wine Competition, 12 medals; Los Angeles County Fair, 20 medals--including stealing the show with the 1996 Beaulieu Clone 6 Cabernet winning gold, "Best Red," "Best of the Competition," "Wines of the Americas Sweepstakes award; California State Fair, 18 medals; Long Beach Grand Cru Competition, 11 medals; Tasters Guild International Competition, 22 medals. Beaulieu must still be celebrating!
Gallo of Sonoma was named "Best U.S. Wine Producer" by the U.K. based International Wine & Spirits Competition. The Ernest and Julio Estate Cabernet won "Best of Show" at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience. This award continues the successful achievement of the 1996 Gallo Estate Cabernet during 2000, including gold or double gold at Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Monterey Competition, Tasters Guild International Competition, Cincinnati International Wine Festival and International Wine & Spirits Competition.
Kenwood Vineyards won three gold (1998 Olivet Reserve Pinot Noir, 1997 Massara Merlot and 1997 Jack London Cabernet) and four silver medals at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair.
Korbel took Best of Class and gold medals for its Natural and NV Rouge champagnes at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair.
Peak Wine International announced that the Geyser Peak Block Collection made a smashing debut at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair by winning gold and silver medals galore. Additionally, the 1997 Geyser Peak Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley and 1999 Meola Vineyard Rose of Cabernet won gold medals.
Mirassou's Showcase Selection Pinot Noir won gold, "Best of Class" and "Best Pinot Noir" at the Wine of America's Competition in Los Angeles.
DNA testing by the University of California Davis finds that the Zaca Mesa Roussanne is actually Viognier. Zaca Mesa President Jeffrey Maiken said that all available remaining bottles of 1999 Roussanne are being returned for relabeling.
Chateau St. Jean Winery has opened a new Visitor Center and Gardens at the Sonoma estate.
Harcourt will release Oz Clark's two new books in November: Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Guide (his annually updated A to Z quick reference) $13 and Oz Clarke's Introducting Wine $20. The Wine Guide has been expanded to include Clarke's witty, opinionated recommendations with more than 1600 entries. There are vintage charts and a helpful glossary. Clarke's Introductory Wine emphasizes tasTe and grapes over brands and producers. The first section is a guide to choosing among 15 styles of wine; such as, juicy, fruity reds or intense, nutty whites. The second section instructs: How to buy, taste, serve, etc. The final seciton is an armchair tour of the world of wines with brief accounts.
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NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
FLORA SPRINGS 1999 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $26--"With our Carneros fruit, we increased the aromas' depth and provided a lovely long finish. There's exceptional balance and fullness. I avoid malolactic fermentation because of the inherent richness in our fruit. I taste every barrel before it's included in the final blend." BLEND: 100% Fermentation in barrel--50% new; 9 months aging sur lies; fined and filtered free-run juice.
BERINGER 1997 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $25--This Knights
Valley has generous black cherry and currant fruit concentration and tannins, so Winemaker
Ed Sbragia left the juice in contact with skins an extra 12 days after fermentation for
more complexity. "With a lesser wine, extended maceration could soften
it too much," explains Ed, "but this Cabernet has great authority."
It aged 19 months, primarily in French oak--25% new, for vanilla, cedar, toast and
spice nuances. "This classic Cabernet Sauvignon shows a great
vintage and a great vineyard. The new vertical trellising systems give the grapes
uniform air and sun exposure, with all-day solar flecks on the grapes that help develop
color and flavor evenly. The wine's first impression explodes sweet, ripe
cherry flavor. They carry full force right through the mid-palate, then end with
what I call 'grip,' a textural component, and a last little punch that makes the
wine linger. When growing conditions are just right, as they were in 1997, the
vineyard gives me a gift like this one."
BEL ARBOR 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, California $5: "Since their inception, Bel Arbor wines have earned a position of respectability as one of America's best-valued wines. Our goal is to create soft, drinkable wines with good varietal character and fruit-forward style. Enjoy the Cabernet with grilled meats and pasta dishes, pizza and hamburgers and the 1999 BEL ARBOR Chardonnay $6 with poached fish and chicken dishes, and the 1999 BEL ARBOR Merlot $6 with roasted meats and pastas with pesto or fresh basil."
GEYSER PEAK WINERY 1997 Reserve Shiraz $32: "Big, rich, with a complex nose, touches of white pepper, spice, licorice and plum, hint of fresh earth, tremendous strength and structure, fine grained tannin, cedary oak overtones." GEYSER PEAK WINERY 1997 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $40: "Complex, big and rich, nose of berry and cassis with smokiness, sweet vanilla, oak character, concentrated fruit, backbone of tannin, classic wine."
AZIENDA FRATELLI PIGHIN 1998 Merlot Friuli Grave $12: "pronounced bouquet of egriot and violet, , hints of herbs, blackberries, dry with good body and character, some tannin and good length. Serve with game and grilled meats."
HUGEL 1999 "Gentil" Alsace $10: "A blend that's bright, lively and grapey, hints of apple, strawberry, and grapefruit, refreshing and rounded, enjoy on its own or with shellfish and seafood." HUGEL Riesling Alsace $17: "vibrant, airy, fresh, fragrant, green apple, citrus, spring flowers, dry and lively, serve with fish terrine, shellfish"
SANTI Pinot Grigio Trentino, Sortesele Vineyard $12: "big, elegant bouquet, dry hay, honey, exotic fruits, wild flowers, almonds, full and soft."
MITCHELTON WINES OF AUSTRALIA is Victoria's foremost producer of premium and super-premium wines. PREECE represents premium Victoria varietals ($14-$15), introduced in 1991 and named to honor Mitchelton's first winemaker, Colin Preece. Seriously-made, structured and complex wines, their fruit forward and soft tannins make them highluy approachable and food friendly (please see "Top Picks" above). THOMAS MITCHEL is a popular premium ($10), and MITCHELTON is super-premium Victoria varietals ($16-$20) produced from grapes grown in Victoria's finest sub-zones, consistently receiving 90-point ratings.
COLUMBIA CREST wines are grown in the Columbia Valley, east of the Cascade Mountains range in Washington which effectively block the eastward-moving wet weather systems from the Pacific Ocean. Consequently, rainfall of just six to eight inches reaches the growing region annually.
CHARLES KRUG WINERY, owned by the Peter Mondavi family for three-generations, has been a Napa Valley destination for wine lovers for more than 140 years. Now there's a new destination: www.CharlesKrug.com
CHATEAU SOUVERAIN 1998 Zinfanel Dry Creek Valley $13: "Bursting with jammy raspberry, boysenberry and black cherry notes, rich and round mouthfeel, modest acidity, soft tannin, balanced, medium bodied, touch oak, long juicy fnish."
DOMINUS Estate reported that its 1997 vintage has "deep ruby color and aromas of very ripe black currant, spices and mineral overtones. It exhibits power and elegance and finishes with substantial but silky rich tannins. A luscious and dense wine, it is delicious to drink now with a great aging potential." The 1997 blend includes 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Merlot. The balance between the three was considered excellent and no Petit Verdot was added to the blend. As with all DOMINUS wines, it is recommended that the wine be decanted prior to serving to allow it to develop its full potential. The vintage summary notes reported substantial rains in December and January followed by a very dry spring. As dry weather continued, the bloom started very early in mid-April and was relatively short--leading to uniform ripeness. By summer it was evident that the harvest would be large and that severe crop thinning would be needed. Favorable weather continued through the summer, which helped maturation and improved the flavors of the Cabernets and Merlots. At harvest, the grapes were perfectly matured with refined tannins and a high concentration of flavors. Sixteen months in barrel--33% new oak. Dominus Estate's NAPANOOK 1997, the second vintage, is made entirely of grapes from Napanook Vineyard near Yountville. Since 1983 Christian Moueix has produced DOMINUS from the same vineyard. Established in 1886, Napanook was one of the first vineyards planted in Napa Valley. It has long been recognized for its extraordinary cabernet sauvignon, which covers 70% of the vineyard. Merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot are also grown and complete the quartet of great Bordeaux varieties used in these wines (but no malbec). NAPANOOK is made from carefully selected cellar lots for lively fruit, soft tannins and early maturing characteristics. The 1997 NAPANOOK blend is 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot. It spent 15 months in oak, 20% new.
CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Steve Reeder says he was an Air Force brat. "My father, a pilot, moved us around Europe and the U.S. and I spent my teenage years specifically in France and Germany and that time left me with some of the most incredible flavor memories." Some of them are recalled in the CHATEAU ST.JEAN 1999 Gewurztraminer $9, "Bursting with spicy fruit, orange blossom, lychee and grapefruit with classic varietal notes, ripe pear and well-balanced," and 1999 CHATEAU ST. JEAN Riesling $12, "Delicate notes of apricot, mango, rose petals and melon with nectarines and creamy ripe pear on the palate." CHATEAU ST. JEAN 1998 Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard, Alexander Valley $22 comes from "a spectacular vineyard that has achieved unparalleled consistency and exemplary winegrape growing," says Winemaker Steve Reeder. "Highly aromatic notes of nectarine, honeysuckle and ripe peaches jump from the glass, mouthfilling tropical fruits flavors of pineapple and kiwi, rich, unctuous mouth followed by smoky oak." CHATEAU ST. JEAN 1999 Chardonnay,Sonoma $13--"ripe pears, vanilla, butter notes, rich, ripe tropical fruits, peaches, citrus and smoky apple flavors"
BODEGA NORTON is an excellent Argentinian wine imported by The Hess Collection. The wine tradition dates to 1895 when Englishman Sir Edmund James Palmer Norton, an engineer with the Buenos Aires Railway Company, founded the winery. The modern era began in 1989 when purchased by present owner, Gernot Langes-Swarovski. His son, Michael, manages day-to-day operations and has overseen the modernization of the winery and extensive vineyard development. The winery and over 1300 acres of estate vineyards are located in Lujan de Cuyo which was Argentina's first controlled appellation. This appellation is within the Upper Mendoza River Valley region at 33 degrees south latitude and ranges from 1500 feet to 3600 feet in the foothills of the Andes. The moderate climate punctuated by cool nighttime temperatures is ideal for aroma and color development. As the vineyards are irrigated with waters from the Andean rivers, even more valuable minerals are added to the soil, further reducing any need for artificial fertilizers. These conditions are perfect for the red varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Sangiovese, which have been cultivated in Argentina for the past 400 years, developing adaptations to local conditions. The combination of history, nature and a technically equipped, modern winery carries on the rich tradition of Bodega Norton. BODEGA NORTON 1998 Privada, Argentina $14, (34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 33% Malbec), Barrel Aging: Twelve months in French oak, " Smooth, ripe, succulent and stylish wine, displaying ripe currant, cherry and spicy aromas and flavors. Full round tannins. Superbly balanced with great fruit concentration." BODEGA NORTON 1998 Sangiovese, Argentian $9, "Lively, ruby color with delicate berry and floral aromas. Round body, elegant fruit flavor and velvety texture. Delicate and balanced leather and spicy notes that linger beautifully on the finish."
ROBERT CRAIG Wine Cellars 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley $44, "Intense aromas of black fruit, cedar, roasted coffee, mocha, back cherry, berries, clove, nuts, touch caramel, full and flavorful luscious richness to the finish, seamless integration of flavors, backed with supple tannins." Winemaker Craig says Mt. Veeder, on the southwestern slopes of Napa Valley, has been coveted by winemakers as a source of beautiful Cabernet since the 1860s. "Our 1997 Mt. Veeder Cabernet is crafted from an exceptional single-vineyard source located high on a ridge top above Napa Valley. The wine is characterized by rich, concentrataed fruit flavors, a fine, silky texture, and ripe approachable tannins structured for aging." ROBERT CRAIG Wine Cellars 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley $44 comes from the "rugged mountain range east of St. Helena, noted for producing Cabernets of depth and concentration. This wine presents intense black fruit and spice in an elegant, velvety-texture. It's full bodied, yet supple and stylish, with sweet fruit flavors and soft tannins in a harmonious, well-balanced wine."
AUDUBON CELLARS 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Juliana Vineyard $12, "Lush melon, grapefruit, pear, medium bodied, long crisp finish, enjoy with chicken and seafood."
LLANO ESTACADO 1998 Cellar Select Chardonnay, Lubbock, Texas $17, "Fermented in new Demptos oak, I feel this style of Chardonnay," says Winemaker Greg Bruni, "to be the best expression of this variety from our climate." LLANO ESTACADO 1998 Signature Red Meritage, Lubbock, Texas $10, "supple blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot--"our most popular wine." LLANO ESTACADO 1998 Passionelle, Texas Rhone-style red, $10, "soft and fragrant, this wine is intended to be an affordable, everyday table wine."
CHAMPAGNE NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Brut Premier Cru, 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, "floral nose, apple, pear, slmond and hazelnut, elegant and balanced." CHAMPAGNE NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Brut Rose Premier Cru, bright rose petal pink, subtle perfume suggesting blackberry and blackcurrant, hint raspberry, rich and fruity finish, enjoy with smoked salmon and roast veal.'
VALLEY OF THE MOON 1999 Pinot Blanc, Sonoma $15, "The 1999 growing season had near perfect weather, ensuring the crisp acid and fresh fruit character desired for this blend of 97% Pinot Blanc and 3% Chardonnay, pair with seafood, especially oysters."
DOMAINE CARNERNOS by Taittinger 1994 Le Reve, $55," a lovely Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine. Winemaker Eileen Crane says, "The 1994 vintage was ideal for the production of sparkling wines. This wine is a blend of 42% Chardonnay--from six clones--and 8% Pinot Blanc, 100% Carneros and estate grown. 1994 Le Reve has aromas of exotic fruit--passion fruit, litchi nut, pineapple--and floral notes such as hyacinth and freesia. Notes of toast, cream and citrus add to Le Reve's overall richness and complexity. Streams of tiny bubbles enhance the wine's silky texture and carry the flavors through the finish." DOMAINE CARNEROS 1998 Pinot Noir $34--"complex and multi-layered with black cherry, black tea, spice, coffee, chocolate, rich with excellent body, long and focused, grapes came from seven clonal selections, 100% estate grown in the Carneros, hand-harvested in the cool morning."
KENWOOD 1999Chardonnay, Sonoma $15, "Predominantly Russian River grapes, it's a fruit focued style with rich rounded flavors." KENWOOD 1998 Reserve - Olivet Pinot Noir $30--"Grown in the Russian River Valley, this 100% Pinot Noir was planted with a unique clone in an area where superior soil and cool climate nurture the pinot noir grape. From the vine to the bottle, this wine was handled with the utmost care, resulting in a rich, deeply colored wine with enticing cherry, wild berry and plum flavors,and finishing with depth and finesse." KENWOOD ARTIST SERIES is always a delight to the eye and the palate. The current release--KENWOOD 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon $70-- has a label featuring the work of Wayne Thiebaud--a colorist nonpareil and a painter full of whimsy. KENWOOD Vineyards celebrates the release of its highly acclaimed Artist Series Cabernet $70 featuring the work of American painter Wayne Thiebaud. (Be sure to see his exhibit at the Fort Worth Museum. His work is fun, full of whimsy and I especially like his down-to-earth approach about his work. He eschews the word "artist", choosing "painter" instead because he believes that only a handfull of artists exist worldwide. I agree.) Winemaker Mike Lee selects only his finest barrels for this elegant, intensely flavored wine. The 1996 is 80% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 1% cabernet franc aged in small Fench oak barrels for 36 months and is a candidate for aging. Less than 4,000 cases were made.
ROBERT STEMMLER WINERY 1997 Pinot Noir, Sonoma $26, "small batch fermentation allows for greater extraction of flavor, color and aroma. This wine is complex, cherry, rose petals, cedar and leather, forward fruit, strawberries with toasty oak and eathiness."
DRY CREEK VINEYARD 1998 Old Vines Zinfandel, Sonoma $18.50, "made of vines 50 years or older, raspberries, blackberries, notes of smoke, vanilla cream, chocolate and spice, full and balanced" DRY CREEK VINEYARD 1998 Merlot, Sonoma $21, "cherries, caramel, chocolate, cloves, oak nuances,roasted coffee, vanilla finish" DRY CREEK VINEYARD 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma $21, "cedar and spiced aromas of currants and cherries, flavors of chocolate, cassis, blackberries and toasted oak" DRY CREEK VINEYARD 1999 Fume Blanc DCV3, Dry Creek Valley $18, "This 1999 is our second production of this exceptional lot of vineyard designated wine--floral, citrus, lemon grass pineapple and melon accents, with excellent structure and balance."
JEKEL 1999 Riesling, Gravelston Estate, Monterey $10, "fresh apple, apricot, lime, honeysuckle blossoms, bright and crisp, balanced, enjoy with curried shrimp, chicken salad, smoky Latin dishes" JEKEL 1999 Late Harvest Riesling, Monterey $18 (375ml), "grapes were pressed without crushing, great concentration, dried apricots, ripe apples, orange blossom, honey, sweet vanilla, serve with warm apple tart, French vanilla ice cream" JEKEL 1998 Syrah, Monterey $15, "We're pleased with our first effort-warm scents of black pepper, violets, vanilla, spicy oak, long, lush mouthfeel, ripe plum, enjoy with grilled meats, lamb with rosemary, smoked pork"
KING ESTATE 1997 Pinot Noir, Oregon $20, "100% stainless steel fermentation, punch down two to three times a day, aged 10 to 12 months in French oak--25% new, 25% one-year, 25% two-year and 25% three-year' KING ESTATE 1997 Reserve Pinot Noir, Oregon $35, "The reserve is a blend of grapes from the King Estate, 36%; Pfeiffer Vineyards, 55%; Hyland Vineyard, 9% and 84% the Pommard clone, 100% stainless steel fermentation, two daily punch downs, and aged 17 months in French oak, 45% new, 32% one-year and 23% two-year. 1997 was considered an ideal growing season--abundant plum, blueberry, raspberry, black cherry, cranberry, dried florals, hints of anise, good acid balance and smooth tannins."
ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY has a number of tasty new releases from its various properties. ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY focuses on Reserve and District bottlings. Under the Reserve labeling there are 1997 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $120--a Borderlaise style with emphasis on harmony. The fruit blends grapes from Stag's Leap, Rutherford, West Napa and Oakville areas; 1998 Reserve Chardonnay $36--primarily from the Carneros with 100% French oak fermentation, malolactic fermentation, batonage and sur lie aging and has extraordinary length. 1998 Reserve Pinot Noir $50--fermented in the low-tech, gravity flow Carneros facility in open tank fermenters, gentle punch down two to four times a day. 1998 Reserve Fume Blanc $28-sourced from low-yielding, 54-year-old To Kalon vineyard vines. 1998 Zinfandel (60 to 80-year-old vines) $19--sourced from old clone, head-trained, dry-farmed vines from throughout Napa Valley. ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY District wines show the advantages of a long history of wine growing in Napa Valley--including laying claim to distinguished vineyard land. Vineyards in Stag's Leap, Oakville and the Carnernos give Tim Mondavi and the entire winemaking team a tremendous degree of selectivity in creating wines for the District wine program.
RESERVES
DISTRICT WINES
BYRON VINEYARD & WINERY 1997 Pinot Noir, Sierra Madre Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley $32--"first vineyard designated wine from Sierra Madre; rich, opulent, silky" BYRON VINEYARD & WINERY 1997 Estate Chardonnay, Byron Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, $32--"rich and full-bodied, golden delicious apple, honey and pineapple hints" SENA 1997 is the third vintage of this ultra-premium red table wine from the joint venture between the families of Robert Mondavi and Eduardo Chadwick of Vina Errazuriz. "Capturing the essence of Chile's terroir, it's powerful yet gentle, opulent fruit, ripe tannins, layers of berries and chocolate, cinnamon and cedar, balanced with long finish." CALITERRA wines are crafted by Chilean Winemaker Irene Paiva and Tony Coltrin from California. A new facility and a new package for the wines are underway. The current releases are CALITERRA 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, CALITERRA 1999 Chardonnay and CALITERRA 1998 Merlot, $8 each and CALITERRA 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, $7.50--reasonably priced and a good value. VINA ERRAZURIZ is "the Chilean estate of our joint venture partner, the Eduardo Chadwick family. These wines are good examples of Chilean style--lots of fruit and texture" typically rich and deep in color." 1999 ERRAZURIZ Merlot $10--"blackberry, boysenberry, cherry aromas, layers of toast, vanilla, ripe chalky tannins, lush texture" 1998 ERRAZURIZ Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva $25--"layers of complexity and elegance, herbal blackberry and sweet tobaco" 1999 ERRAZURIZ Chardonnay $10--"ripe fruit aromas, papaya, pear, apple, vanilla accents, buttery texture" 1999 ERRAZURIZ Wild Ferment Chardonnay $22--"full-bodied, alcohol balanced by acidity, coconut, honeysuckle, rich and creamy" 1999 ERRAZURIZ Sauvignon Blanc $10--"delicate fresh pear, grapefruit and vanilla bean, bright acidity, clean finish" 1999 ERRAZURIZ Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc $15 (375 ml--"concentrated fruit aromas, apricot jam, honey suckle, rich, complex perfume"
ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY La Famiglia, Coastal and Woodbridge fill out the well-known portfolio. ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY Coastal wines represent premium wines in a class called the "fighting varietals", competitively priced, quality everyday wines from $9 to $12--Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon. WOODBRIDGE, started in 1978 in the Lodi area, was named for the sleepy town bordered by the Sacramento River Delta and the Sierra Nevada Foothills. Many Italian immigrants came here in the 1800's, including Cesare and Rosa Mondavi of Sassoferrato, Italy, who brought their family to continue this winemaking tradition. After Robert established (1966) and enjoyed success at his Napa Valley winery, in 1979, he began a new wine venture for a quality, affordable wine. Woodbridge was the answer--Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. varietal wines for $5 to $8. LA FAMIGLIA DI ROBERT MONDAVI celebrates the family heritage with wines made from Italian grape verietals. LA FAMIGLIA 1999 Moscato Bianco $11--"has exotic floral and sweet fruit notes, made in a style that retains light effervescence, enjoy as a starter with a platter of fruits and cheeses" LA FAMIGLIA 1998 Barbera $20--"plum, cranberry, zesty and woodsy nuances, soft tannins complement rich sauces and hearty dishes" LA FAMIGLIA 1998 Sangiovese $22--"soft and supple with notes of red cherries, citrus, allspice, enhanced by acidity, pair with pasta, cheese or grilled pork or chicken"
CHAMPAGNE MUMM CORDON ROUGE $30 (45% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier, 10% Reserve wines), "fruity bouquet, creamy and refined, delicate harmony of crispness, complexity and elegance"
THE MONTEREY VINEYARD 1999 Pinot Noir $7, "black plum, cherry, fruit mingled with cinnamon, hints of pepper, vanilla and smoke, earthy notes"
SNOQUALMIE VINEYARDS, established in 1983, is among Washington State's first premium wineries. It is under the Stimson Lane umbrella of wines, a sister winery of Columbia Crest and Chateau St. Michelle. Distribution has expanded recently to include 20 more states, Texas among them. Winemaker Joy Andersen has been making SNOQUALMIE wines since 1991. Her style is lush, fruit-forward and immediately enjoyable--as indeed were the recently tasted Syrah and Chardonnay. These are excellent value premium wines.
RODNEY STRONG 1997 Estate Merlot, Alexander Valley $26--"A limited production, new prestige Merlot from Winemaker Rick Sayre that showcases Alexander Valley's moderate climate and hillside vineyards." He says, "It is here that the distinction of Merlot as a soft, luxurious and drinkablae red wine is realized."
STERLING VINEYARDS 1999 Chardonnay, North Coast $17--"The first fruits of 2000 were brought toSterling Vineyards just as Project Shine--the multimillon dollar renovation of the winery--began. The reinvestment being made on this property began in 1995 with replanting projects, the addition of six rotary fermenters, two presses and a cave expansion. Beefitting from these improvements, winemakers Greg Fowler and Rob Hunter are making wines that showcase this fruit. It added structure and accentuated the varietal characaterics of apple, ripe pear, almonds and flavaors of sweet cream, tripical fruit and vanilla."
ZABACO Rancho is named for one of the original Mexican land grants in Northern Sonoma. It produces bold and exciting wines from Sonoma's best growing areas. ZABACO 1998 Heritage Vines Zinfandel $14--"ripe, fruit-forward style, outstanding fruit quality that commands twice the price of average over grapes with a California appellation" ZABACO 1999 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc $16--"distinctive, varietally expressive in the Loire style, bold and zesty" ZABACO 1999 Sonoma Coast Pinot Gris $16--"inspired by Alsace, rich, crisp acidity that pairs well with food" ZABACO 1997 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel $16--"classic style, aged in American oak, medium-to-heavy toast, unfiltered and unfined to preserve depth and complexity"
SANDEMAN Fouonder's Reserve Fine Ruby Port $18--"Ruby Porto is made from red grapes, naturally, rich, with very intense fruit aromas and concentrated ruby color, fresh fruit aroma, plums, strawberries and apples. These are young wines whose basic characteristics haven't been altered by long exposure to air through the wood of oak aging casks, and have retained their primary flavors. Founders Reserve is ready to drink upon release."
KCBX WINE CLASSIC 2000:Cabernet Franc, Bordeaux style Brunch, Sunday, July 16, 2000, with a panel of experts (I use lower case for the grape and upper case for the wine--SJE)
Once again one of my favorite proverbs proves true. It says, "Three things are important in life: someone to love, something to do and something to hope for." The last item is fulfilled in Santa Barbara County for those searching for a delicious, well-made Cabernet Franc wine. Santa Barbara County is brimming with excellent Cabernet Francs. This year at the KCBX Wine Classic, among the many excellent events and programs, we tasted delicious Cabernet Francs at a Sunday Brunch at the Cliffs Hotel.Panel Moderator Patrick Will believes the interest in all Bordeaux varieties (cabernet franc is one) has been spread throughout the world by Cabernet Sauvignon wine. "It’s the most famous grape variety while merlot is the most widely planted. They ripen at different times, depending on the weather, and staggering provides a protective hedge for the crop. Cabernet franc adds more characteristics to a blended Bordeaux wine. Here it shows well on its own too. Wines should show their terroir—whether France, California or wherever they’re from, and no one wine region is best."
Bryan Babcock says of his wine, the 1998 Fathom Cabernet Franc, $30: "Fathom is Cabernet Franc and it has featured it for some time. Most people have thought of Santa Barbara as a grape region for pinot noir. Next, it was syrah. Now it’s turned to the Bordeaux varietals. I was a skeptic at first. I wanted to make Sangiovese and the Italians were blending it with cabernet sauvignon so I said, okay, if that’s what I need to do to make a good Sangiovese, so be it. So I planted Bordeaux and I found out how good the Cabernet Franc tasted. In St. Emilion it’s the dominant grape—and the reason is the soil. My program is open ended—to make Cabernet Franc the best wine possible. Santa Inez is a maritime valley and offers infinite opportunities: pinot noir, syrah, and now cabernet franc. I see a much greater influence coming from this grape in Santa Barbara County, down the line." (SJE tasting notes read: lovely aromatics, perfumy fruit-forward, boysenberry cobbler, ripe and rich—nice palate feel, it’s a fabulous, luscious wine, loved it!)
Stephen Bedford says of his wine, the 1997 Bedford Thompson Cabernet Franc $20, "We thought we had a wonderful opportunity here with Cabernet Franc. My partner’s vineyard has low vigor, reaches ripeness as low sugar; there’s a lot of stress to the vines and we keep alcohol low to avoid imbalance. We do open top fermentation and barrel aging and no fining." (SJE notes read:complexity, dusty, hay, toasty, empyreumatic, char-oak, subtle plum, subtle herbals, mild leather, tea, dry, tightly structured.) Steve Glossner says of the 1997 Adelaida Res.Cabernet Franc, Viking Ranch (single vineyard) $40, "The vineyard is key. I've been winemaker for 1˝ years. My family owns 2000 acres west of Paso Robles. It looked like the worst possible place to grow grapes—25% grade on rocky soil (pH 8), and produces a unique style of wines. It allows closer spacing, smaller yields per vine and smaller vines produce wines with a lot of power. But the site determines wine power more than anything. Natural yeasts are used. We treat it like a white wine. It’s on 110 R rootstock." (SJE notes read: Adelaida is beautifully aromatic, coconut, gardenia, medley of ripe berries, perfumy, chewy sweet tannins, concentrated—and it’s only a barrel sample!) Jacques Lurton presented his 1998 Araucano Cabernet Franc, Chile. He says, "Pacific Ocean influences vines. We fight herbaceousness (due to cool nights) and try to locate where there are warmer nights. We need high sugars to find the right phenolic ripeness—25 brix. This wine is from a difficult year." (SJE notes read: subtle nose, empyreumatic, understated herbal nose, forest floor, hints of earth, unctuous, mushroom.) Winemaker Craig Macmillan says of his 1997 Stolpman 55%Cabernet Franc/45% Merlot, Santa Inez Valley, $25 (660 cases) "I think we have a long to go with the Bordeaux varietals because of the American palate. I think we come from a varietal- centric view but around the world it is not necessarily so. I’ve been drawn more and more to cabernet franc, but in cooler areas you’re not going to get the high sugars. It starts out herbal and goes toward spice. I like the synthetic closures—wines age more slowly with them (I want to remove the CO2 and gaseousness that cork mitigates)."(SJE notes read: stunning wine, perfumy, big and rounded, complex nose, fruit forward, integrated, nice oak, tea, chocolate, mocha, multiple berries, ripe and spicy, lovely and elegant, balanced, tight but luscious tannins.) Dinner at Seven Peaks Winery I discovered the delightful food of Chef Rick a couple of years ago at the KCBX Wine Classic. It seemed he was preparing hors d'oeuvres or luncheon or dinner at every event I attended. Little did I know when I selected Seven Peaks Winery (www.7peaks.com) for the KCBX Winery Dinner event that Chef Rick had been hired, so I was doubly blessed--excellent and delicious wines with a superb dinner.WORLD VINIFERA CONFERENCE, SEATTLE, JULY 2000
Washington state is the second largest producer of vinifera wines in the U.S. It’s no wonder then that the Washington Wine Commission has such an enthusiastic--and capable, I might add—staff to stage the World Vinifera Conference biannually. Executive Director Steve Burns told me they had been developing the July 2000 program for two years. "It all came together remarkably well," he says. "The theme ‘Quest for Quality’ helped wine industry leaders prepare engaging sessions that challenged and informed the participants." I can vouch for that statement. Some of the session topics included: "Quest For Quality: A World Perspective," "The International Taste-Off, Syrah Transitions From The Old World To The New, and Scoring, Rating, Evaluating: Can You Quantify Quality? were just some panels among the three-day event that keep the interest of approximately 400 participants. Scoring, Rating, Evaluating: can you quantify quality? panel was lively and often fiery. In answering the question, everyone had a strong opinion. JEFF MORGAN of Dean & Deluca believes each wine reviewer has his own rating system that expresses his opinion and that one can indeed quantify quality. Dr. ANN NOBLE of UC Davis, however, disagreed. "No, of course not," she replied. "Unless you know the scorer personally and how he scores, just having a number doesn’t mean anything. Reaction time is a result that depends on how we process information. You really do want to have some overall view to rate the wine—a value judgment." Britisher TIM ATKIN of the The Guardian made a comparison to what some consider art. He showed a slide of an item displayed at London’s new Tate Museum--an old mattress. "Of course it is ridiculous—not art, but what sort of rating would you give it? No one could think that this is art. Scores do not tell you anything. The same wine tasted again over several days would taste differently and score differently. Points encourage wine collectors, not drinkers. Points make wine drinkers lazy, making people more rigid in what they choose rather than what they want. Points stop people thinking for themselves. Get away from points and get back to what is all about—which is pleasure." STEVE TANZER of International Wine Cellar feels that "scoring is an attempt to make wine objective when it’s a subjective exercise to drink. But, readers demand scores. All life is a continuation of high school (where points matter). Scoring forces a degree of responsibility to name a certain quality of that wine. I can’t understand a Brit’s scores or opinion of a wine from his notes. But doesn’t a person who is new to wine need some guidance? AUDIENCE GUEST: "Americans want a short answer. I personally hate the scoring system because it either causes a wine to sell out immediately at a 90-point rating or at a lower score, no one wants it. Give the wine a week and it might score better, but the score at the time is final—there’s no leeway." Panelist JEFF PRATHER: "In the last decade the U. S. has become a wine-drinking nation and it couldn’t have happened if we hadn’t had a scoring system—for better or worse. Words give you room to maneuver, but scores do not." There was, of course, no consensus. I guess each wine drinker will have to assess for himself how much he relies on scores in selecting wines. I encourage my students to train and trust their own palates; of course, my students have the opportunity to taste 15 or more wines at my table each month. They know from tasting which wines they like and they buy them. My answer is try and buy. Quest for Quality had some answers and raised some questions. Bob Betz, M.W. - Washington Wine Commission, and Stimson Lane Vineyards & Estates: "It’s a great time to be drinking wines because we are collectively drinking the finest wines that have ever been made. Geography is not destiny because it doesn’t preclude discovering other great sites. The quest for quality continues. Even Bordeaux has been under fire for the AOC laws. Washington has bonded new wineries every 13 days over the past five years—26 wineries a year. The quest is ongoing. "The Washington Wine Commission was looking for a definition for the term 'reserve.' The concept was immediately embraced by all WA producers. There’s a mission—it’s been a creative and cooperative vision in WA to be world’s premier wine producing region. The criteria include using 100% vinifera, 100% WA grapes, 75% of varietal on label, no generic names (like Champagne, Burgundy, etc.). It’s more about attitude than rules. We’ve stayed away from dictating rules (like the AOC). The idea is that you can’t legislate the relationship between winegrower and the vines, the winemaker and the barrels. " Donald J.P. Ziraldo - VQA, Canada, Inniskillin Wines: "Who determines the standards for areas? For the French, the AOC (1923) has been the standard. For the U.S. it’s the BATF. There are defining characteristics: for France it’s terroir; for Carneros it’s the fog; and around the world there are strict rules and regulations. Can you trust the AOC? No. Trust the producer along with the appellation." Prof. Mario Fregoni - Instituto di Frutti - Viticoltura, Italy: "Variety, climate, soil, together with clone, vineyard practices, rootstock are defining characteristics of a region. Washington is a viticultural paradise for me—this is my first visit. Virus-free Washington is a dream; viruses in Europe are a catastrophe." His suggestions for quality—"Washington should use low-density plantings and create plant competition—these conditions are good for quality. More roots per hectare means better quality. Phenolic maturity is important and it concerns anthocyans plus tannins, skins and seeds." The International Taste-Off Moderators Sarah Kemp, Decanter Magazine, London, and Brian St. Pierre, Freelance Wine Writer, London, moderated a panel of U.S. and U.K. representatives. They discussed the concept of an international palate and together with the audience of about 400 tasted eight wines blind and ranked them according to preference—one through eight. Panel Members from the UK: Steven Spurrier - Wine Writer, Decanter Magazine, UK; Christopher Burr, M.W. - uvine.com, UK and Jasper Morris, M.W. - Wine Buyer, Morris & Verdin, Ltd. Panel Members from the US: Howard Goldberg - Wine Writer, The New York Times, New York; David Lake, M.W. - Winemaker, Columbia Winery, Washington; Jeff Prather – Wine.com SARAH: "Do we have cultural palates and can we identify styles and place?" JASPER: "If they’re overly tannic, overly extracted, there over-there (U.S.)." STEVEN: "U.S. wines have higher alcohol." CHRIS: "U.S. has more fruit and alcohol. And Europe has more elegance and finesse. I like tannin; it clears the palate." DAVID: "I’m Canadian but I’ve been here 23 years so have some perception of both palates. Brits appreciate high acidity and here sugar dominates. When I left Britain, it was high tannins as a preference and now it has changed. We like tannins more here in the U.S. There’s a confusion of semantics. 'Quite good' in England is different from 'quite good' in U.S." JEFF: "There are language barriers and we use it here (U.S.) in a careless or more imprecise way." HOWARD: "Like other Americans, I was brought up on colas and acquired a sweet tooth for drinks. What I like now is understatement—underpowered—and many thiings are considered, the day, the moment, the kind and psyche of the wine and of me." CHRIS: "Concerning the the 1995s, first, 1991-1994 were all disastrous vintages in France. 1995 was hottest vintage in 40 years-- 82-85 degrees in September--and there were heavy rain showers. Cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc were especially ripe with big tannins, and very good wines were made with ripe tannins—one of the best of the decade." DAVID: "1995 was a long and tiring harvest here in Washington. It was a cool year with a mild winter, late April start, flowering mid-June, substantial harvest, cool summer, thinning of crops to reduce the yield, unusually small amounts of rain, quite cool in July and August." STEVEN: "Bordeaux stylistically is becoming more a varietal wine. One looks for balance and harmony." CHRIS: "I’m impressed by the way both Washington and French wines are aging. Both have good acidity. I also like the fruit character and the Bordelaise are trying to get more fruit in their wines." JASON: "I’m impressed with the Washington wines this time. It’s getting more difficult to differentiate between Washington and Bordeaux." HOWARD: "It’s a very rewarding tasting because of the confusion it sows. Intellectual experiences are rewarding. Washington wines have something of real interest to discover." DAVID: "Washington is very dynamic. We make different styles in different years." JEFF: "Washington has come a long way in the last 10 to 15 years. And customers are so much more sophisticated. When I was at Ray’s Boathouse, customers asked to see the "chandelier" (meaning the sommelier). We called them CMOs—certified masters of the obvious." The audience tasted eight wines blind--the best of each region. The wines were scored preferentially, one through eight. The top three wines were Washington wines according to the audience—predominantly American. So the answer to the question is "yes," there is an international palate—and like so much of a home culture, one becomes acculturated to the indigenous.My wine notes included the following comments.
Big tannins, heavily extracted, mild subtle fruit, tightly textured, briery, herbals and nutmeg 2. (ranked 5th) 1995 Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos (50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, retail $34) fruitiness, lighter in texture, nice evolution over palate, softer tannins, elegance 3. (ranked 1st) 1995 Columbia Crest Reserve Red (47% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Malbec, retail $26) perfumy, charred oak perception, soft tannins, nutty, concentrated, full-bodied, berries 4. (ranked 6th) 1995 Chateau Rauzan-Segla (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, retail $109) some dense fruit, cherry, nice tannins, dry but short finish, touch Brett, (Howard said "I might date this wine, but I’d never marry it) chewy, dry, austere 5. (ranked 8th) 1995 Chateau Phelan-Segur (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, retail $89 Brett, leather, dense, tight, earthy 6. (ranked 3rd) 1995 L’Ecole No. 41 Apogee (67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot retail $35) perfumy, gardenia, coconut, fruit-forward, coming nose, light chewy tannins, evolve nicely with oak expressions 7. (ranked 7th) 1995 Chateau Haut-Bages Avarous (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15 % Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc retail NA) tight, biting tannins, bold structure, charred, anise, dry, austere
8. (ranked 2nd) 1995 Woodard Canyon Artist Series (100% Cabernet Sauvignon retail $34) black pepper, fruity, soft tannins, nice evolution, chewy, evolves well, leather, depth, finesse, fruit intense, balanced with complexity, ripe flavors, charming
Syrah, Transitions from the Old World to the New Moderator: Patrick W. Fegan, Wine Writer Chicago Tribune, Director Chicago Wine School. Panel Members: David Lake, M.W., Winemaker Columbia Winery, Washington; Craig Williams, Winemaker Joseph Phelps, California; Michael McCarthy - SARDI, Australia.Patrick Fegan came loaded with world statistics and other helpful information. For example, among 50 grape varieties planted worldwide, syrah is ranked 13 in acreage and France dominates with 111,415. The largest U.S. plantation is in California, 10,298, and Washington has 1,500 acres--seemingly all produce good wine. Syrah, according to wine historian Patrick Will, is a corruption of serah, which means long lasting. It is called Shiraz in Australia.
"The cradle of syrah is the northern Rhone," Will says. "It is most highly regarded in the Cote Rotie and Hermitage. These two regions were identified early on a being best for syrah--as long as twenty centuries ago by the Romans. Their slopes can be 55 degrees."
According to David Lake, syrah came to Washing in 1985. "We have the volcanic ash and sandstone syrah likes. We had to take a bulldozer to break down the cliffs and soils for Red Willow Vineyard and even put a chapel at the top of a hill like you'll see in the Rhone."
Dr. McCarty says shiraz is physiologically different. "More than other grapes, with shiraz wines they truly begin in the vineyard. There are many young vineyards but the older vines are better--some more than 100 years. Fortunately we do not have phylloxera so they have not had to be bulldozed down. They should not be planted, however, in the direct sun as they burn easily and will shrivel." Australian author Halliday says the wines are "bloody marvelous."
As for yields, in Australia the average is five tons to the acre, in the Rhone it is two to two and one-half, in California it's three to three and one-half (8 to 10 in the Central Valley) and three to five tons in Washington. Blending is the rule in the Rhone and is believed to strengthen the wine overall. Increasing acres of vineyards includes plantings of syrah. It is predicted to be the second--most planted red grape after merlot.
My tasting notes for the selection of Syrah/Shiraz wines follows
1. Columbia Winery 1997 Syrah, Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley: "exploding and compelling nose, gardenia, floral, coconut, red berries, big and tannic, tightly structured but charming and fuit filled."
2. McCrea Cellars 1997 Syrah, Ciel du Cheval, Yakima Valley: 'huge, massive oak, unctuous, hint herbals, black pepper, big tannins, pithy, some spice
3. Joseph Phelps Vieayrds, 1997 Syrah, Napa Valley: lovely nose, perfumy, coal, medley of berries, ripe, rich, fresh sage, c omplexity, black pepper, tight
4. Zaca Mesa 1998 Syrah, Zaca Mesa Vineyards, Santa Barbara County: dusty, chemical nuances, tar, odors mitigate on second nose, may be in dull period
5. Penfolds 1997 Syrah, Magill Estate: lovely floral accents, gardenia, fruitiness, intense, forward pleasant nose, black pepper, chewy sweet oak tannins, evolves nicely, complexity with integration of layers of flavors
6. Seppelt 1996 Shiraz Chalambar, Victoria: dusty, hints of clean soap fragrance, some slight herbal, complex herbaciousness--sage, herbs pot pourri, lovely nose evolves and nice expression
7. E. Guigal 1995 Cote Rotie "Brune et Blonde": Black pepper, cranberry, purple floral mixture, big tannins, old stored blankets, pitihy, tannins dominate
8. E Guigal 1995 Hermitage Rouge: earthy, leather, oil, unctuousness, smoky, black pepper, hints of berries, tightly structured, big tannins dominate, potential with minor fruit
Dr. Wade
Wolfe of Hogue Cellars forecasted, "I expect a third wonderful vintage for Washington
State, perhaps better than the 1998 and 1999 vintages, in the Yakima Valley. Wolfe also
pointed out that this year’s fruit condition was “near perfect”.
Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers gave credit to early fall
and late summer temperatures for another classic vintage. There's an increase in
total bearing acres--24,806 acres (10,039 hectares), and for the first time, red varietals
exceeded white.
Washington has everything going for it with wine
growing--even nature. The northern latitude gives Washington two hours more of daily
sunlight than California so the fruit can achieve great ripeness. And coupled with
cool nights that help maintain acidity, the full-flavored varietal wines retain balance.
Aren't we lucky to live in America!!
Rosemount
Estate brings wines to Austin
This well-know wine estate in Australia celebrated its selection as "Winery of the Year" with tours to eight cities in the United States--including Austin. With luncheon at the Four Season, there was a massive tasting of eleven wines. Merlot and Shiraz from Langhorne Creek, Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, and Sauvignon Blanc from Adelaide Hills were just some of the regions sampled. The Hunter Valley 2000 vintage is being touted as a classic year. "It has eclipsed almost all the '80s and '90s as the best vintage in recent memory," says Winemaker Philip Shaw, who has 20 vintages at Rosemount. "It's easily the best I've ever had here." The wines are deliciously worth exploring. Some of my notes follow.
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