The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  36th Edition
September 7, 2000

 

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)

Sparkling wines are just the ticket for summer imbibing--or all year long!

Mixed Varietals

NEWS

Sarah Jane English is the wine and food editor for Country Lifestyle, a new Texas magazine.   For information: 830/816-7355, www.countrylifestyle.net

WINE INSTITUTE announced that U.S. wine exports, about 95% from California, edged up 2% to $548 million in 1999.  Major Canadian and European markets continue a strong demand for the consistently high quality of California wines.  Over 125 CA wineries export to 165 world markets.

LOUIS ROEDERER CHAMPAGNE acquired DESCAVES, an established Bordeaux negociant (1790) specializing in rare grand crus.  House of DESCAVES was run for many years by Jeanne Descaves, that "great lady" of negociants who died in December at age 97. The mastery she displayed in her profession made the name Descaves legendary.  Together with Champagne Louis Roederer (55%), Descaves has been purchased by the Duclot group owned by Jean-Francois Moueix.  The purchase is a move toward diversification for Roederer and one of consolidation for Duclot.

ROBERT MONDAVI purchased ARROWOOD Winery in Sonoma, County, with a continuinig alliance with the founding partners, Dick and Alis Arrowood.

MIRASSOU Mission Vineyard named "Best Chardonnay in California" at California State Fair: 98 points, gold, best regional and California Chardonnay.

KCBX Central Coast Wine Classic, a six-day extravaganza of culinary and fine wine oriented activities, concluded a record-breaking year with 4,000 tickets sold to various symposia, tastings, luncheons, dinners and cooking demostrations.    Total attendanace, including the 2,500 attendees at the Grand Wine Tasting, was 6,500.  Auction revenues totaled $805,350.  According to Founder/Executive Director Archie McLaren, "The Central Coast Wine Classic's mission is to educate and edify the wine consuming public while promoting hospitality industries and raising beneficiary funds." (article in 37th Newsletter)

CHARLES KRUG 1997 Peter Mondavi Family Cabernet Sauvignon won a double gold at California State Fair.

STE. GENEVIEVE announced its Australian varietals releases--BIG RIVER label--named for Murray River, Australia's largest.  Shiraz (fruity, intense flavors, smoky finish), Chardonnay (layers of melon, citrus, lingering vanilla) and Cabernet Sauvignon ( berry, slowly evolving, softening finish) are $6 each. 

NAPA VALLAEY WINE AUCTION set a  world record with $9.5 million raised at the annual event at Meadowood Resort to benefit local charities.

SHAFER Line on Wine interesting tidbits: "Sulfites produced daily by the body equal those present in 100 bottles of wine; 1980s vine spacing was 454 vines per acre--in 1990s,  it was 2,500; Vineyard worker harvests two tons of grapes in a good day; 79% U.S.  wine consumpton  was produced in the U.S.

GEYSER PEAK has done it again.  For an unprecedented three years in a row, GEYSER PEAK  was selected "Winery of the Year, " California State Fair Wine Competition.  It also received the Golden Bear Award  for best overall results in the competition for a third time.  Look for the Double gold winners: GEYSER PEAK 1997 Block Collection Cabernet Kuimelis and 1999 Sauvignon Blanc (also "Best") and gold award winners: 1997 Reserve Merlot, 1997 Petite Sirah and 1998 Reserve Chardonnay--all recently tasted and fully appreciated!  Also tasted and fully enjoyed were the Reserve Alexandra and the Reserve Shiraz.

KORBEL CELLARS,  number one selling U.S. premium sparkler, was named an Official Supporter of the 2000, '02 and '04 U.S. Olympic Team. 

CALLAWAY WINERY, Southern California's largest wine producer, is expanding operations to the Central Coast.  Previously, for last 30 years, Temecula Valley was home,  but to stay competitive in the exploding premium wine market, Callaway had to expand grape sources.  "This is not a simple wine brand line extension," says Mike Jellison, Allied Domencq President, Callaway's parent company.  "Grape sourcing is only one part of the equation.   We have a more contemporary taste profile."  There wil be two tiers of wines: Coastal and Coastal Reserve, $8 to $12 price range.

***

NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

SIGNORELLO reported that the 1998 growing season began cool with a wet spring.  Late rains caused a crop reduction that allowed for greater grape quality.   The wines have "excellent balance with good acidity." 

SOUTHCORP WINES is Australia's largest wine producer and exporter, currently ranking as the seventh largest wine company in the world, and believed to be the world's largest producer of premium red wine and private vineyard holder.   It released a number of wines from its various properties.

MAISON MARQUES & DOMAINES USA has released several wines from South Africa, France and Portugal.

DOMAINE CHANDON released its ultra premium CHANDON RESERVE BRUT $24--the return of Reserve Brut after two years of commemorative bottlings: 25th Anniversary Cuvee and Cuvee 2000.  "The 494 is a specially selected, refined blend of the finest grapes (Carneros, Mt. Veeder, Yountsville), 2/3 pinot noir and 1/3 chardonnay."  Always balanced and elegant, it remains a favorite of mine.  The newest--CHANDON BRUT FRESCO $10, from Argentina.  The fresh and fruit-driven style is crisp and easy to enjoy.

CAFARO CELLARS released three wines, saying "1997 was spectacular--a rare combination of quality and quantity.  CAFARO 1997 Cabernet and 1997 Merlot reflect the vintage: intensely fruity, showy, deep, ripe aromas and flavors leading to a long finish.  Our CAFARO 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva is from another excellent Napa vintage.  It's showing beautifully now, due to the extra year of aging.  The 100% Cabernet blends grapes from three outstanding hillside vineyards, and the origins are reflected in the wine's richness, intensity and concentration."   Production of all three wines is extremely limited.

BERNARDUS 1998 Chardonnay $20, "At Bernardus, the textural element--the mouthfeel--is our most important wine expression.  Grapes are picked for a 'spice rack approach' bringing delicate nuances from each vineyard."  The first release from new Bernardus Winemaker Mark Chesebro--promoted from chief enologist-- is available: BERNARDUS 1999 Sauvignon Blanc $15.  "Our goal is to create seriously delicious wines that flatter the palate and stimulate the imagination," he says.  "The evolution of our winemaking makes consistently delicious wine that's the hallmark of BERNARDUS Sauvignon Blanc."

DRY CREEK VINEYARDS has a new Reserve Series of white wines that celebrate the family's love of sailing.  The labels showcase the historic racing vessels of the America's Cup--the oldest sports trophy in the world.   DRY CREEK VINEYARDS  1998 Reserve Fume Blanc $18: "creamy, honeydew and orange blossom notes, vanilla and crisp citrus, backed by oak-spiced peach, rich and viscous with a toasty finish."  The  DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 1998 Reserve Chardonnay $22: "enticing tropicals, guava, pineapple, lemon, vanilla, candied oak, layers of pear, apple, and butterscotch, complexity, refined and elegant finish."     Also released were the DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 1998 Heritage Clone Zinfandel $15--the result of grafting budwood from a century-old vineyard onto new rootstock to present the next generation of classic "old vines" flavors from Dry Creek Valley.  "Luscious raspberry, cherry, baking spices, juicy berries, hint of mint, mouth-filling, finishing balance of oak and fruit," and the DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 1999 Fume Blanc Sonoma County $12: freshly mown grass, grapefruit, vibrant, brisk, balanced, zesty lemon-lime, tropical fruits, creamy mouthfeel, clean crisp finish."

CAIN CONCEPT 1997 (Cab Sauvignon 74%/Cabernet Franc 22%/Petit Verdot 3%/Syrah 1%) $42 is a new blend, first vintage, based on fruit from benchlands of Napa.  It emphasizes the soft, supple tannins and lush fruit coming from vineyards on alluvial fans that line the edges of the floor of the Napa Valley.  In these well-drained soils on gravel deposits, the natural vigor of Cabernet Sauvignon is held in check: "ripe, plummy, sweet, soft tannins, balanced wine."   CAIN MUSQUE 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Ventana Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, Monterey $20--"aromas of flowers and fruits, finished in a crisp, dry style."

HANDLEY CELLARS Winemaker Milla Handley, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County presents a delicious array of  her wines.    HANDLEY sparkling wines remain favorites of mine--current releases included: HANDLEY 1995 Brut $28 is 75% Pinot Noir/25% Chardonnay- barrel-fermented Chardonnay and    stainless-steel Pinot Noir give "toasty aromas of fennel, pleasant citrus and long creamy finish."  HANDLEY 1994 Blanc de Blancs $28 is 100% Chardonnay, elegant, creamy, crisp, refreshing and an absolutlely delicious drink.  HANDLEY 1998 Pinot Mystere Meunier $20: "a robust, earthy wine, aromas of clove and chocolate, spicy notes, blueberry, blackberry, good with meat dishes--including game."   HANDLEY   1999 Pinot Gris $16, "complex aromas of orange blossoms, caramelized bananas, tropical nuances, tangerine flavors, nicely balanced, excellent with homey soups and Asian dishes."  HANDLEY 1999 Gewurztraminer $14, "spicy and aromatic, flavors of mandarin orange, lychee nuances, and a touch of residual sugar makes it a natural for spicy foods."  HANDLEY 1998 Chardonnay, Dry Creek Valley, $18, "rich, toasty, apple pie flavors, hint of oak, soft and silky mouthfeel, brightly balanced."

TREFETHEN has received recent praises for its Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: "big, elegant, complex, well-developed, exquisitely balanced;" ". . . an extraordinary reserve" and high ratings as well as stars.   The TREFETHEN Estate Cabernet also received praises--gold at the Tasters Guild International, double gold,  best of class and best California Cabernet at the California State Fair," and the Chardonnay received "Exceptional" and "Highly Recommended" praises as well as gold at the San Francisco International Wine Competition.

BANOLIS 1999 Pinot Grigio, Grave del Friuli DOC $12: Premiovini (Folonari family's group of regional Italian wines) originally named the brand Bagnoli to honor Italian viticulturalist Carlo Bagnoli.  In 1995 a new DOC called Bagnoli was created so the label had to be changed to BANOLIS.  The Pinot Grigio is "dry, crisp, fruity, balanced,  pear and flower aromas, nutty, toasted bread."  The PLAUTO 1998 Sangiovese di Ramagna DOC $8 (dedicated to Italian playwright), comes from two regional clones of  Italy's most widely planted red grape.   The 1998 Plauto is 100% Sangiovese, "medium bodied, full of aromas of red fruits and violets." Pair with the signature dish of Romagna, Prosciutto di Parma.

MOUTON CADET 1995 Reserve $14, from Baron Philippe de Rothschild, represents a harvest many consider the best of the decade.   "Complex and full-bodied, redolent of raisins, cassis, plums, and black cherries with soft accessible tannins"

BUENA VISTA 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Carneros ($18) Winemaker Judy Matulich-Weitz says,"This vintage gave complex aromas of pomegranate, boysenberry, blackberry and fresh cigar with rich, up-front fruit hinting of blackberry tea, big tannins and long flavors."  Vineyard Manager Anne Moller-Racke says the 1997 vintage was one of the warmest of the '90s  in Carneros.  The extra heat ripened the fruit to its fullest potential with big intense flavors and colors."

KENWOOD 1999 Gewurztraminer, Sonoma, $11 has 10% Viognier.    The well-balanced blend has "apricot, lychee, aromas of rosewater and spice and complements well-seasoned foods." KENWOOD 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma $11.50: "blends 6% Chardonnay and 3% Semillon for crisp flavors of tropical fruits, pears, and citrus, fresh and lively through the finish and complements seafoods."   KENWOOD 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma $22: "rich berry flavors, elegant, full-bodied, fine tannins."  KENWOOD 1997 Jack London Cabernet Sauvignon $35: "aged in newer French oak barrels for two years, the wine is deliciously complex with powerful berry, spice and earthy flavors."

GLORIA FERRER 1991 Carneros Cuvee, Late Disgorged  Brut $32.   This wine is lovely, rich and elegant with a substantial structure.  Winemaker Bob Iantosca says it is the premier sparkling wine--tete de cuvee--and each bottle has tirage and disgorgement dates and is numbered.  "This extra attention to labeling underscores the extensive amout of hand-processing that goes into such a small quantity of special wine--1,500 cases."  It's a 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay blend.  A late harvest allowed grapes to ripen fully.  "Seven years on the yeasts made the wine creamy, full-bodied, yeasty, toasty, both delicate and powerful, crisp acidity, flavors of caramel, toffee and vanilla, refined."

PRESTON of DRY CREEK, newly named and labeled,  owner Lou Preston says with a nod to the old adage--"it's what's in the bottle that counts,"--that he's released his two signature wines, Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.  "Why Zin and Sauvignon Blanc? You and my banker both probably want to know?" he says.  As it turns out, both grapes grow beautifully in Dry Creek Valley.  You'll enjoy Lou's.   PRESTON of DRY CREEK 1999 Sauvignon Blanc $12: "fresh grapefruit, pear, apple, herb and spice, crisp and elegant."  PRESTON of DRY CREEK 1998 Zinfandel Old Vines/Old Clones $15: "rich berry-like fruit, medium body, is united for broad flavor range from darker fish and fowl to wild game and red meat."

FAZA-BATTAGLIA Verdicchio Classico claims to be the most recognizable Italian wine bottle in the world.  Introduced 50 years ago, it made it's debut in an amphora-shaped bottle that placed the white wine from Italy's Marches region in worldwide demand.  Now the 1999 FAZI-BATTAGLIA Verdicchio $9 is being presented in a new olive-green bottle of the original shape with a new label and most of the innovations having gone into the wine itself.

BERINGER's Winemaker Ed Sbragia--a rock and roll fan at heart--toasts George Gershwin "that it's still summertime and living is easy"--even in  hot, hot, hot Texas where his chilled wines show especially well.  BERINGER 1999 North Coast LVS White Zinfandel $8; BERINGER 1999 Chenin Blanc $6; BERINGER 1999 Johannisberg Riesling and BERINGER 1999 California White Merlot.  Chill them to 49 degrees and enjoy with hamburgers, cold salads and sandwiches of all sorts.

KENDALL-JACKSON released three of its four Chardonnays for your pleasure.   "Vineyards that demonstrate superior quality merit individual recognition.  K-J's Single Vineyard Series showcase the aromas, flavors, nuances and balance that can only come from truly great vineyards."  Such wines are the K-J 1998 Chardonnay Camelot Vineyard, and K-J Chardonnay Paradise.

HOGUE CELLARS  Winemaker David Forsyth emphasized the critical importance of terroir and appellation in Washington wines.  "That's why we've changed the label designation on our Barrel Select wines to 'Vineyard Selection,' reflecting the importance of the site."  The first ones are the HOGUE CELLARS 1999 Viognier $16--"white peach, orange blossoms, hints of jasmine, honey, freshly baked bread, floral flavors, viscous mouthfeel and lingering apricot finish,"   and HOGUE 1998 Syrah $16--"red fruit, cherry, plum and violet, black pepper and spice, clove, soft structure and viscosity, silky" 

MIRASSOU 1997 Merlot, Harvest Reserve, Monterey $18--"black cherry, cedar and spice, , hints of coffee, chocolate, rosemary, plum, and vanilla, soft tannins, enjoy with pizza, hamburgers, beef, lamb, and game."  MIRASSOU 1998 Chardonnay, Harvest Reserve, Monterey $16--"ripe tropical fruits, apple, citrus, creamy mouthfeel, toasty oak, vanilla nuances and refreshing acidity, enjoy with poultry and seafood."

CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Steve Reeder has been touting the benefits of growing particular grapes in the right soil for years.  "I often sound like a broken record, " he says, "but it's a relatively new concept in California wine growing.   We've made tremendous strides in the last 10 years, and I think my 1999 Fume Blanc and 1998 Merlot are perfect examples of selecting the ideal appellations for them and then blending them appropriately." 

ST. CLEMENT Winemaker David Schlottman says except for a few scorching days over 110 in Napa Valley, cooler growing conditions in recent months and a heavier crop appear to make the 2000 vintage another superb one.  The 1998 OROPPAS $45 marks the 8th vintage of St. Clement's Bordeaux-style blend, or, in the U.S, this Meritage,   we blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot to create a wine delicious in its youth with the flexibilty to age.  "It is full-bodied, mouthfilling, rich and juicy, driven by sweet fruit flavors with a luscious finish."  

ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS (AVV) has 25 years of experience and now culitvates 14 grape varieties on the Wetzel Family Estate.   Co-owner Katie Wetzel Murphy says: "Winemaker Kevin Hall uses the fruit from our diverse vineyards to blend complex wines, experimenting with yeasts and winemaking techniques such as carbonic maceration and cold soaking.  His innovative skills are evident in our ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon and the 1998 Syrah, ($18 each)."   The AVV 1998 Cabernet is a Bordeaux-style blend with 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc--each vinified separately and aged in French and American oak for 14 months.    The AVV 1998 Syrah is the first varietal Syral made entirely from Wetzel estate grapes--14% carbonic maceration, 14 months in French (70%) and American (30%) oak barrels.  Kevin says, "This Syrah has black cherry, plum, and violet flavors that interply with earthy elements; it's polished and tannins are well-integrated."

ST. FRANCIS VINEYARDS & WINERY unveiled a new label on it's Sonoma County tier of premium  wines on the 1998 "Old Vines" Zinfandel.   Winemaker Tom Mackey says," The '98 yield was much smaller than the '97 and harvested much later.  The additional hang time created a concentrated crop, intense fruit combined with moderate alcohol made it especially well-balanced.  This may be our best Zin to date--big bold flavors, rich character and texture, layers of complexity unfolding with wonderfully jammy Zin."

RODNEY STRONG 1999 Chardonnay Sonoma County $14 and 1997 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon $16 have been released.  The new wines are blends from grapes from Northern Sonoma County. 

STONE CREEK Wines released the 1998 Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon $8--"oak tannins, jammy fruit, spice, medium bodied and well-balanced, ready to drink" and the 1998 Special Selection Merlot $8--"plums and cherries, light oak notes, soft texture and supple."

THE MONTEREY VINEYARDS (TMV) is 25 miles inland from Monterey Bay, resting in the wide Salinas Valley surrounded by the Gavilan and Santa Lucia mountain ranges.  The winery, situated on portions of land originally granted by the Mexican government to Theodora Gonzales in 1836, was acquired by Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines in 1983. 

Grilled Veggies with TMV wines

Salt the slices of eggplant well on both sides and set aside in colander to drain for 15 min. while preparing other veggies.  Dry eggplant with paper towels.  Lay all veggies on cookie sheets and brush with olive oil.  Mix herbs together in a small bowl.  Salt the veggies well and distribute the herbs over them evenly, patting on the garlic last.  Let stand for 30 to 90 min. at room temperature.   Prepare barbeque fire.  Grill veggies over a medium-hot fire for 2-4 minutes on each side until brown, not black.  They should be tender in the center.   Brush with more olive oil to keep from sticking.  Serve on platter with sprigs of fresh rosemary with steaks, brochettes or grilled ribs.

NormanVineyards Lei and Art Norman started their small   vineyard/winery operation west of Paso Robles in 1971.  Art's dad and grandfather made the annual family zinfandel and at 17, Art began making it.  He's loved grapes ever since.   "If you want great wine, start with great grapes," he says, "and we grow them."  Using methods that produced grapes of superior quality, they launched their own label in 1992.  Art and Winemaker Robert Nadeau  hand craft the wines to  preserve the natural fruit characteristics, enhance maturity and produce soft  tannins.    "I'am really excited about Robert's winemaking," says Art. "His style is exactly what I want--intensely fruit-forward wines with judicious oak."  They make big, chewy Zinfandels--flagship wines at Norman Vineyards since day-one.     NORMANS 1997 Monster Zin $18 certainly follows suit--"generous black cherry, framboise, and plum, firm acidity and supple oak-tannins. Ultra-ripe fruit delivers the fleshy-yet-zingy Zin-gusher characteristic of the Monster Zinfandel experience.
      1996 Cabernet features $17--" rich,  spicy fruit, forward  black cherry,  plum and cinnamon finish.       1996 Cabernet aged in a carefully chosen selection of new to 4 year old barrels, primarily in American Oak, with approximately 20% in French Oak.    Serve with satisfying dishes like filet mignon, pot roast or meat loaf, and don't forget to enjoy a glass before dinner. $17
The generous French oak aging is nearly dwarfed by the black cherry, clove, and Herbs de Provence aromas which this wine exhibits.    The William Cain Vineyard has been a favorite of local Pinto-philes as the wines produced from his grapes are darker than typical California Pinot Noir and share a distinct "Gout de terror".     Soft tannins and subdued stone fruit team with herbs and truffle, finishing with cinnamon and cedar aftertaste.  Try this wine with poached salmon or your next leg of lamb.  $20


KING ESTATE in Austin at CAFE JOSIE :Chef Charlie Mays cooked a variety of spicy and delicious hors d'oeuvres and platters of food to accompany the superb wines of Oregon's KING ESTATE.  KING excels in Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.  Their mission is "to produce varietal wines of consistently exceptional quality through meticulous fruit selection, impeccable winemaking practices, and judicious blending."   From the wines we tasted, I'd say they had accomplished it.  1997 provided Oregon with an ideal, sunny growing season. Bud break and flowering occurred without incidence.   Moderate amounts of summer rainfall, provided nutrients to most dry-irrigated vineyards.  Substantial harvest rainfall, nonetheless, produced fruit that arrived clean and mature at the winery.   King Estate thinned its own and contracted vineyards up to four times during the summer months in order to reduce volume and increase quality.    1997 KING ESTATE PINOT GRIS $13, "pale platinum, rich aromas of melon, peach, and passion fruit, hints of guava and floral spice, flavors of melon, nectarine, banana, and tropical fruits abound throughout, with a note of anise mid-palate. Bright and crisp, this wine has excellent acid balance and provides a soft, lingering finish.    1997 KING ESTATE RESERVE PINOT GRIS $18: "golden straw, aromas of orange blossom, tropical fruits, ripe fig, and vanilla spice, smooth, inviting mouthfeel, complex and well balanced with rich tropical fruit, peach, a hint of perfume, solid acid structure, and a long, silky finish.   1997 KING ESTATE CHARDONNAY $14: "golden straw, vanilla, oak spice, honey and clove aromas with tropical fruit, pineapple, and floral  nuances, well-balanced with melon, tropical fruits, orange clove, and sweet oak spice, lingers to a long, crisp finish.   We tasted two Pinot Noirs from the 1996 harvest, a typical season for Oregon--cool and clear spring through early summer, average fruit set, good weather through mid-August for slow, consistent fruit flavor development.  1996 KING ESTATE PINOT NOIR $18, "bright raspberry, blackberry, and currant aromas, hints of oak spice, potpourri spice, and face powder, balancaed, intense fruit flavors of raspberry, cherry, and plum, notes of black pepper and nutmeg, well-integrated oak, solid acid structure, smooth tannins.  

KRUG Champagne Showcased at Brio Vista   Caroline Krug came to Austin to showcase her family's wines and they were stunning wines with a lovely dinner.  I'm embarrassed to admit that I left my tasting notes and menu in my chair, and although I tried to retrieve them, was unable to do so.  In any event, the evening was a great success and most of you are probably delighted for any opportunity to open a bottle of Champagne Krug and to dine at Brio Vista as well.  Enjoy!

MURPHY-GOODE Hosts Austin Luncheon at Shoreline   
At Murphy-Goode they say, "It's not work if you're having fun."   They're serious winemakers and grape growers with  300 prime acres in Alexander Valley.  Winegrowers Tim Murphy and Dale Goode teamed with wine marketer Dave Ready in 1985 to start Murphy-Goode.   Now Dave Ready Jr. is teaming with Winemaker Christian Benz to make, among others Murphy-Goode's flagship wine, Fumé Blanc.  There are three styles:   Sonoma County, Reserve and  Fumé II (the Deuce).    Barrel-fermented, the 1998 Fumé II $24, aged nine months in new French oak, underwent 100% malolactic fermentation   with frequent lies stirring.  This vintage introduced the estate grown Musqué clone,   representing 52% of our final blend. Winemaker Christina Benz says: “Sweet toasted oak complements honey, tropical fruit aromas, with smooth, delicious flavors of orange liqueur and mango finishing long."   1998 Reserve Fumé, Alexander Valley $17 fermented and aged sur lie for eight months in oak barrels, 28% Musque clone.    Winemaker Benz says: “Complex, powerful aromas of pear, spice, honey and herbs, dense and rich, pear and passion fruit notes with a firm full finish.”    1999 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County $12.50,  75% fermented at cool temperatures to enhance the fruit, 25% was fermented in seasoned oak and the blend was barrel aged (two months) to marry the lots.      Benz says:  “The long, cool growing season and small crop gave us an intensely fruity, crisp Fumé Blanc with notes of ripe grapefruit, passion fruit and pear.”   The Alexander Valley and Russian River Valley grow Murphy-Goode Chardonnays--Sonoma County, Reserve Island Block-Alexander Valley and Minnesota Cuvée are the three delicious wines.  One example is the 1998 Chardonnay, Sonoma County $15.  It's
93%  barrel-fermented in new and seasoned barrels, aged sur lie five months with 16% undergoing malolactic, leaving it crisp and refreshing with a touch of creaminess.   Don't forget the MURPHY-GOODE red wines.  They're beautifully crafted, rich, ripe red wines including Merlot and Zinfandel.    1998 Liar's Dice Zinfandel, Sonoma County $17    Tim Murphy manages Zinfandel, a program conceived over 20-year breakfasts and “liars dice” games at Mickey’s Café.  Tim’s friends are some of the finest Zin growers in Sonoma County and now source “Liar’s Dice” Zinfandel. Zinfandel grapes tend to ripen unevenly; we want the fruit when the grapes are dark in color, with about 5-15% of the berries starting to shrivel. Once at the winery, we gently crushed and fermented at warm temperatures, to maximize flavor extractions. This wine was aged for 13 months in American and French oak barrels.   Assistant Winemaker David Ready, Jr. comments: “This is a rich Zin from a long warm growing season that produced ripe and generous big berry fruit. It’s an aromatic wine with black raspberry, pepper and sweet spicy fruit plus a nice layering of oak.”

LOLONIS Featured Guest with Sarah Jane's Tasters  Phillip  Lolonis kindly brought an array of LOLONIS wines for the enjoyment of my tasters.  Since Lolonis was new to many, the discovery of such delicious wines made Phillip doubly welcomed.  The LOLONIS Vineyards were established in 1920 by the Greek-American   family.  Today, three Lolonis brothers--Petros, Nick and Ulysses--still grow the grapes and make the wine with the same care and precision.   And now there's the third generation representing Lolonis.   Petros' son Phillip handles the marketing.   He worked in the vineyard growing up.  Then he graduated from U.C.Davis.  Afterwards, Phillip worked at Gallo and Mondavi and others to get his cellar legs.  He is enthusiastic and straightforward about the quality of the wines.   "We're organic farmers," Phillip says.  "It makes a big difference in our quality.  My Uncle Ulysses is a growing guru.  He doesn't use modern tools to determine thiings in the vineyard.  He watches the land, smells it and listens it--going along with what nature has to say."  The family gives a lot of credit to ladybugs and other non-chemical vineyard controls.   Actually, the vineyard insignia is the ladybug.  This little critter is an essential part of the vineyard operation and so highly acclaimed that ladybug pins and stickers and felt patches are given and worn with abandon.   LOLONIS excels in Zinfandels.   Try both the LOLONIS Private Reserve Zinfandel, LOLONIS Mendocino Zinfandel--fruit forward, rich, ripe and luscious.  Don't neglect the other fine LOLONIS offerings: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Fume Blanc and especially the PETROS (blend of Cabernet and Merlot) and the ORPHEUS--a Petite Sirah.  These are complex, big flavor, full-bodied, layered wines that invite more than one glass.  We're looking forward to a return visit!

NEW ORLEANS FEASTING AT ITS BEST

        Jambalaya, crawfish, gumbo, and etouffe bring to mind one city only—New Orleans. And while The Big Easy may conjure many images, food often is the dominant one. Whether Cajun or Creole, native or transplanted, all New Orleanians love to eat, and the pleasures seem not to be lost on visitors. By the way, Creole cuisine incorporates French recipes and techniques while Cajun cooking uses spiciness and provincial ingredients.              Cultures irrepressibly stamped their cooking styles on this fabled city—named variously Big Easy, N’awlins, NOLA and others. Spanish and French influences are evident in the skillets and pans just as they are in the dining rooms and architecture. Waterways defined the cuisine and the land--the Mississippi River shaped its banks into a crescent border to encourage the sobriquet Crescent City. Swamps, lakes and bayous contribute to the moist atmosphere as well and add shelled-and-finned-creature items to the galaxy of menus.              Restaurants occur throughout New Orleans’ neighborhoods and names help diners find their way around the city.  In addition to the French Quarter (Vieaux Carré), there’s Uptown Garden District, Downtown, Lakefront, Metairie, Mid-city, Uptown and Northshore.

        If you only have one night to dine in New Orleans, go to De Ville Bistro.    In the neighborhood community of Metairie, only 15 or 20 minutes from the French Quarter, there is a jewel of a bistro. Small, quiet, unpretentious, and open only for dinner Monday through Saturday, DeVille Bistro is worth flying to New Orleans to experience.             Owner-Chef Christy Fisher is uniquely talented and one of my favorite chefs. She manages to cook everything to perfection at the two-year-old bistro. At 28, she qualified as one of the best young chefs in America and still deserves the title. Dedicated and serious about her food, she is a marvel. I’ve eaten everything on the menu at least twice and have always found it to be flawless. Christy is unusually gifted. Her sauces have just the right touch—neither too heavy or light, but complementary and of proper consistency in all respects. The carefully selected ingredients have a harmony a symphony would envy. Items on the plate are balanced and in accord, with the appropriate enhancement to accentuate the well-melded flavors and textures.             There are 20 tables (only 75 seats) at DeVille Bistro and Christy and her husband Brian run the establishment. One wall has been illustrated by a would-be Toulouse Lautrec—lively enough to be convincing.      Chef Fisher calls her cooking Contemporary French. I call it fabulous.          She prepared a degustation of the first order for our dining party. It included Shrimp and Squash Tempura on Risotto with Beets and Onions; Gnocchi, Fennel and Arugula with Duck Confit on Mustard Greens; Escargots and Shallots with Thyme and Tomato on Garlic Crème Bruleé; Sautéed Fois Gras on Savory Bread Pudding with Sweetbread Sauce; Duck—slow roasted three hours, boned and rubbed with five spices, pressed and recooked; Speckled Trout Sautéed in Brown Butter with Jumbo Lump Crabmeat, and Filet Mignon Stuffed with Roquefort and Pan-Seared in Bordeliase. I’ve never had better.           The wine list offers about 60 selections of mostly California and French wines—including nine sparkling wines and 16 wines by the glass.

        Most cities, no doubt, have a mix of sleazy and reprehensible establishments. New Orleans has a concentration of them in the French Quarter. Locals never venture near them. Nonetheless, theyre unavoidable when located next to restaurants--Galatoire’s is one. So dash to the restaurant’s front doors, ignoring the surrounding businesses, and you’ll be rewarded once inside.        Some dining occasions are events, like Friday luncheon at Galatoire’s. It’s a local tradition.       The first come, first served policy is still part of the Friday tradition—no exceptions--and desirous diners wait patiently and jovially in line for their table.      Similar to a modern replay of the scene at Maxim’s in "Gigi," Friday at Galatoire’s finds the local cognoscenti table hopping, chatting and laughing with friends of long standing. Some stay through dinner.      "We’re history," says John Fontenot, a waiter for 30 years. "Jean Galatoire bought the old Victor’s Restaurant, established here in 1830. Jean’s three nephews moved from France to join him and bought the restaurant from him in 1919. They represent the Creoles—colonial children of their European ancestors. Gabriel, who never married, maintained an opulent residence on the third floor until his death in 1945.  His two brothers, Leon and Justin, had children who took over. Today, David Gooch (grandson of Leon) and Justin Frey (grandson of Justin) manage Galatoire’s."        Fifth-generation children now enjoy their first grown-up meal at the Bourbon Street food emporium like their parents and grandparents before them. Many come annually to celebrate another year. A resounding birthday song from staff members and guests accompanies a candle atop the Cup Custard Maison for the birthday boy or girl, man or woman. The singing entourage frequently congests waiters who must juggle plates and drinks along the two narrow rows that separate tables, but it’s acknowledged as de rigueur. Locals, invariably better dressed than tourists, can be depicted—especially on birthdays.       Until 1992, credit cards were not accepted. Regulars have accounts and sit at the same tables so their drinks await them when their turn comes to be seated.  Menus aren’t necessary either--their waiters know their preferred selections.         The décor might have been staged for "Gigi" as well. Tulip-shaped-glass cups cover light bulbs in fixtures that once burned gas. Waiters in black tuxedoes drape a white linen towel over their arm. Silently inconspicuous, ceiling fans have a wafting lull that shares delicious aromas. The no-nonsense tile floor and plain wooden chairs for the cozy 120 seat restaurant invite a friendly repartee.     French Creole food is also a tradition, having remained reliable and true to patrons’ demands. Even the cooks are apprenticed from family members of previous cooks who teach Galatoire’s art in the restaurant kitchen. There is respect for the tried and true—Shrimp Rémoulade, Oysters en Brochette, Potatoes Soufflé, Crabmeat Maison, Chicken Financière, Shrimp Clemenceau, Trout Meunière, Café Brûlot (tableside fanfare with a silver bowl)--with no diversion from such impertinences as pasta dishes or blackened meats and the sort.        A very adequate wine list offers 23 French wines, 36 American wines and 16 American wines by the glass.

        Broussard’s also presents classic Creole cuisine. Although christened in a time of great restaurants—Arnaud’s, Antoine’s, Galatoire’s--the 78-year-old Broussard’s suffered kitchen neglect for several years, so guests ignored it too. However, well-respected restaurateurs Gunter and Evelyn Pruess became sole proprietors in 1993 and have restored Broussard’s as a venerable dining institution--working diligently to re-establish its elegance and fine cuisine. They have succeeded. Now multiple awards and newly earned admiration from food critics has New Orleanians returning to its tables.      Broussard’s historic setting is located next to the Hermann-Grimma/Gallier Historic Houses and was once part of them. It seems namesake Joseph Broussard, a Louisiana Creole who trained in Paris as a chef, opened the restaurant in 1920 in part of his wife’s childhood home. Of the three major dining rooms, the oldest one previously was the Hermann-Grimma stable (the Magnolia Room) and the other was a laundry room (the Josephine Room). Beautifully appointed, only history records such prior uses. The renovation has added the word handsome to the décor and the patio has been described as the loveliest in the French Quarter. Open nightly, many enjoy a beverage at the piano bar and the tropical garden view. It is a luxurious dining experience of food and place.        In an era of larger-than-life restaurant owners such as Count Arnaud and Antoine Alciatore, "Papa" Joe Broussard still stood out. A small fiery man of imperial temperament, he possessed equally imperial standards. If a dish failed his expectations, he hurled it out the kitchen door, where it often landed at the feet of startled pedestrians. If diners complained about his food, he tore up their checks and escorted them out of the restaurant. Perhaps his most peculiar quirk was an obsession with Napoleon Bonaparte. He had his hero’s statue placed in the courtyard (which he named Napoleon Patio) and ordered his waiters to gather round the statue to sing the "Marseillaise" each time a customer ordered Napoleon brandy.        Just like other noteworthy restaurants, Broussard’s has its specialties: Sweet Potato, Corn and Shrimp Bisque, Veal Broussard, Crab Cheesecake Imperial, Oyster Trio, Pecan Stuffed Salmon de la Salle, Pompano Napoleon, Delice Rravigote and Bananas Foster.     The 12-page wine list includes entries from America, France, Italy, Germany, Australia and South Africa.

           For the weekend, diners look forward to Sunday Jazz Brunches, which abound throughout New Orleans. The number one destination, however, is Commanders Palace.         Spiffily-dressed brunchers, lively jazz and multi-colored balloons brighten the fancies of an international crowd at Commander’s Sunday Jazz Brunch. Nestled in the Garden District, the area locates where the first Americans settled in New Orleans after the Louisiana Purchase of 1803. The Garden District reflects an exciting and prosperous period for New Orleans when steamboat commerce and up-river plantations made New Orleans its most affluent. The Americans, shunned at first by the Creoles living in the French Quarter (Vieux Carré), developed their own lavish community, creating lush flowering gardens around elegant homes built in an unusual mixture of Spanish, French, English and Greek Revival architectural styles. In the 1880s, Emile Commander established the only restaurant patronized by the distinguished neighborhood families. By 1900, Commander’s was attracting gourmets from all over the world, but new ownership attracted new clientele in the 1920s.        Typical of the Roaring ‘20s, a different management earned a spicier reputation. Riverboat captains became frequent visitors and sporting gentlemen met beautifully enticing women for a rendezvous in the private dining rooms upstairs. The main dining room downstairs (which had a separate entrance), however, maintained impeccable respectability for families and after church diners.       Elinor and Frank Moran bought the restaurant in 1944, refurbished it and carried on its tradition of excellence with an expanded menu. Many of these recipes are still used. Thirty years later, the Brennan family (Ella, Dottie, Dick and John) took over the restaurant. In 1974 they gave the old landmark a new look, enhancing and complementing the outdoor garden setting. Glass walls replaced solid ones, trellises were handcrafted for the garden rooms and appropriate paintings were commissioned. Particular attention was given to the kitchen and the dishes created. Today, Lally Brennan is one of eight, third-generation Brennans involved in the restaurant industry. She joined Commander’s in 1982 as managing partner.         "Every dish we serve, whether it’s a meat, seafood, vegetables or dessert, is as fresh as the closest seashore, garden or local producers can grow it," she says.        The old turquoise Victorian house has multiple rooms for the diners.  The "Traditional Jazz Brunch" begins with a Bloody Mary—a home blend of horseradish, housemade Worcestershire, Commander’s pepper sauce and a vegetable juice blend, topped with a pickled vegetable in frozen vodka. Now you’re awake! "Eggs Sardou"—poached egg on creamed spinach and a fresh artichoke bottom topped with Hollandaise sauce—comes next and is followed by "Roasted Mississippi Quail" and "Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé." Let the music play on!          Chef Jamie Shannon helped the restaurant earn its 1996 James Beard Foundation Outstanding Restaurant Award. Subsequently, it received the 1996 Reader’s Choice Awards # One City Restaurant from Southern Living Magazine and the 1997 Reader’s Choice Award, and Most Popular Restaurant in America, Food & Wine Magazine for two years in a row.

        Across the city of New Orleans there are restaurants that make excellent creations.  The Grill Room at the Windsor Court Hotel is equal to every culinary  task. Both the hotel and dining room have the grace and cultural refinement that international travelers appreciate. Furnished and decorated in a traditional British style, the decor is complemented by a European collection of 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th century arts and antiques, which includes works by Reynolds, Gainsborough and Huysman--many depict Windsor Castle or life of the Royal Family.       The Grill Room has received every prestigious award and esteemed recognition from culinary circles of the highest regard. They include the American Automobile Association's five Diamond award for fine dining, a Mobil 5 Star restaurant rating, and being listed as a top restaurant in the U.S. by Food and Wine Magazine, Zagat Restaurant Survey and as the # One restaurant in New Orleans by Gourmet Magazine. And the list goes on and on.        While visually stunning, The Grill Room pleases the palate even more than the eye. Everything is so tempting that diners are pleased to have the Chef’s Tasters Menu which offers an opportunity to try several items. In a city known for spectacular food, The Grill Room is recognized for a special brand of cuisine described as "New Orleans Grande Cuisine." Executive Chef René Bajeux was elected by his peers as a prestigious Master Chef of France, one of only fifty in America. He explains his cuisine.        "My chefs and I create a diverse style of food that pairs century-old methods and techniques with non-traditional ingredients," he says. "I was born in Alsace but my menu is a cross-cultural one--French, Asian and contemporary American--with an emphasis on fresh and seasonal ingredients. It’s a special blend of traditional southern and contemporary international influences. The intensity of the cooking here is incredible, but New Orleans treats their chefs like kings. "      The menu offers Chef Bajeux's world-famous Tuna Encrusted with Herbs, Ratatouille, Risotto Saffron Aioli, and truffle Jus--just one of his mouth-watering preparations. Others are the Bamboo-Steamed Halibut and Rice Stick Noodles, Lemon Grass Shiitake Jus; Corn-Fried Soft Shell Crabs (in season) and Smoked Tomato Compote, Horseradish Beurre Blanc; Grilled Pork Chop, Appaloosa Beans and Jalapeño Cornbread, and Venison Tenderloin with Black Barley Flan and Blossom Squash.         The Grill Room wine cellar is one of the finest in the United States. There are 1,100 wines on the list, 25 served by the glass and a 10,000-bottle cellar. France is the main concentration with an extensive collection of Bordeaux. California wines also make up a large part of the 28-page list.

        International House, a newly renovated hotel of distinction, is home to Lemon Grass. Its story is amazing. Owner-Chef Minh Bui arrived on a refugee boat from Vietnam and tells an incredible rags-to-riches narrative.           "I couldn’t speak English when I arrived here," Bui says. "I enrolled in a two-year, community college program and worked in a Chinese restaurant to pay expenses. After one year, I moved from dishwasher, to busboy, then to salads—but I saw waiters made more money so I became a waiter—moving to Commander’s, The Grill Room and others. But I really wanted to cook. I never had," he explains, "but I missed things my parents cooked in their restaurant in Saigon. After watching chefs in these respected restaurants, I cooked and experimented at home. I dreamed of owning my own place, but I didn’t know what I was getting into when I got a loan from a bank in August 1995—only in America could such opportunities happen. I did everything myself," he smiles. "I renovated used equipment and then sold it to buy what I needed. I went to a hardware store for material to build the tables. I bought some used chairs. Then I opened a little café in February 1996. Lemon Grass grows everywhere in Vietnam and is included in a lot of our foods. So I named my restaurant Lemon Grass and just opened it, without any advertisement or other notice. I had one waiter and two cooks to help me. The first day, a Thursday, I had 25 diners—and I had never cooked for more than 10. Friday I had 50 people and Saturday I had 90. I was so exhausted on Sunday that I closed and didn’t reopen until Tuesday. Moving to the new location in the International House is another dream come true."      Bui’s fiancée, Chef de Cuisine Cynthia Vutran, is also from Vietnam. They take turns in the kitchen and agree on the simple, straightforward foods they prepare. Too many American Asian restaurants blur dishes with sweet and sour extremes that over-react and detract. Fortunately, Bui and Vutran uphold the fresh, crisp, nutritious fare personified in their splendidly balanced French-Vietnamese cooking. The Spring Roll combines minced chicken, jicama and woodear mushrooms with minced carrots and onions. Scallops—sweet and succulent--are pan-seared and served with grilled eggplant. The Crab Cakes come with petit wonton and sweet-Creole mustard chili coulis. Oysters, perfectly prepared, are flash fried with crusted nuts and served in shell with wasabi leek confit. The Viet Bird Nest is filled with sautéed shrimp and scallops with fresh shiitake and organic veggies, to name just a few of the delightful dishes.       The wine lists 60, mostly California wines--a nice selection modestly priced.

        Another Uptown favorite is Upperline—named for its street location. Owner JoAnn Clevenger is pleased that her restaurant gets so much good press and happily quotes some of her favorite lines.         "We’ve had amazing press," she says. "I’m delighted to quote the accolades--‘If you can eat at only one fine restaurant in New Orleans, make it the Upperline,’ was printed in Southern Living/Travel South. Another favorite was reported in Gault Millau: ‘Upperline straddles the cutting edge of contemporary New Orleans cooking, embracing whatever influences happen to fuse with its basically Creole sensibilities.’ I could go on and on," the proprietor smiles.        This trendy Uptown bistro is credited as one of the most influential restaurants in New Orleans. The setting is among the several rooms of an 1877 yellow wooden townhouse decorated with plentiful selections of New Orleans' most eclectic paintings. Considered an oasis of Southern charm, Upperline melds Creole tradition with contemporary freshness. It offers a friendly, delicious taste into the world of New Orleans Creole cuisine, culture, and art.         The local newspaper restaurant critic, Craig LaBan, named two Upperline dishes among the top 15 dishes in New Orleans for 1997. For starters, he selected the Duck Confit—"tender duck legs...perfectly crisp, irresistibly salty, and simply excellent next to glazed turnips and a sweet blackberry port jam." And as a main course, LaBan praised the Braised Lamb Shank—"a tribute to the virtues of slow cooking, it’s set onto a creamy saffron risotto, the sinewy meat remarkably tender after four hours of braising in red wine. And, added with subtle hand, gremolata--a fine dusting of minced raw garlic, lemon zest and parsley--brings nuances from the lamb's deep flavors like a shaft of light. To try some of the best of New Orleans, come by the Upperline."         The appetizers include Clevenger’s original Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Remoulade; a soup made from roasted garlic--a little cream and some basil-tinged crostini, and Crawfish Cakes with garlic butter. Selections also include an excellent Crispy Soft-Shell Crab with Crawfish Mirliton Hash, and a Bronzed Catfish with Crawfish Dynamite.        Upperline offers a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list at affordable prices. Among the 18 sparking wines, Mumm Cuvée Napa is the lowest priced at $24 while the 1990 Dom Perignon is $150. There are 40 white wines—lowest priced is 1997 Murphy-Goode Fumé Blanc Alexander Valley $25 and highest is 1995 Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay, $68. For the 60 red wines listed, the 1996 Norton Malbec, Mendoza is $18.50, and the high-end priced red is 1990 Cos d’Estournel Grand Cru for $210.

        Bayona Chef Susan Spicer has become somewhat of a legend in her own time. In a town frequently in love with its own food and style, Spicer is quietly different. Refreshing also comes to mind. There are no pyramids of stacked items that tumble at the sight of a fork or unrestrained splashes and dashes all over her plates. She concentrates on cooking and believes, modestly, that she has an instinct for putting together flavors. She attributes it to being adventurous as a young adult, and perhaps, traveling during childhood.       Coming from a military family, the youngest of seven children, she moved often and always enjoyed watching her mother cook something delicious from whatever local ingredients were available. The skill seems to have imprinted.       "It’s a talent I’d like to think I inherited," she smiles.             Inherited or not, the talent is there. Her cuisine, neither Creole nor Cajun, has guests clamoring for it. The honest and uncluttered, nicely balanced presentations are enticing. There’s her Sautéed Salmon with Choucroute and Gewürztraminer Sauce; Seared Sea Scallops and Sesame Aioli Pasta; Layered Crayfish and Spinach Crepe; Goat Cheese Crouton with Mushrooms in Madeira Cream; Pecan Roulade with Praline Cream (dessert) and the ever in demand Cream of Garlic Soup. Her popular French Quarter restaurant often takes reservations weeks in advance.    "I call my food contemporary global," she decides. "I think our style of cuisine is considered adventurous for New Orleans. It’s an eclectic mix in a town that’s known for its strong regional cuisine. I’ve always had to work hard to achieve what I want and technique is one thing I’ll always work on. I never want to stop growing."     Spicer seems to recall lack of successes more easily than her culinary expertise. She says she failed as a cocktail waitress, a secretary, and even lacked enough confidence early on in her cooking career to accept a position as chef. Instead, she went back to France to study, learning every station in the kitchen. When she returned to New Orleans in 1986, she was the opening chef for the Bistro at Maison de Ville hotel. Her food received resounding applause and it continued until she left to open Bayona in 1990.           The reluctant culinary star, whose awards include James Beard Award for Best Chef in Southwest, Robert Mondavi Culinary Award of Excellence, Ivy Award, Gourmet Magazine’s Number One Reader’s Choice, DiRoNa (Distinguished Restaurants of North America) and others, has been recognized constantly. She gives credit to her fellow staff members.        "It’s all about teamwork," Spicer says. "It’s nice to be the one who gets recognition, but you’re only as good as the weakest link. You can only come up with so many ideas by yourself. It’s important to know how much you depend on your staff—both the front and back of the house."      The name Bayona refers to a street during the Spanish period and to the 200-year-old Creole Cottage that occupies the space. The main dining area has three attractive rooms, slightly different in décor, with terra-cotta-colored walls and dark green faux marble accents and a seating capacity of 100 seats at 25 tables. The private room upstairs seats another 30 and an enclosed courtyard and garden area are used in the spring and fall.

METAIRIE (If you've only one night in New Orleans,  dine on the divinely prepared food of Chef Fisher at DeVille Bistro):   DEVILLE BISTRO, 2037 Metairie Blvd., New Orleans, LA, 504-837-6900

UPTOWN:  UPPERLINE, 1413 Upperline Street, New  Orleans, LA 70115, 504-891-9822;  COMMANDER’S PALACE, 1403 Washington Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70130, 504-899-8221;  The GRILL ROOM, Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier Street, New Orleans, LA 70130, 504-523-6000;  LEMON GRASS, International House, 221 Camp Street, New Orleans, LA 70130, 504-553-9005;

FRENCH QUARTER: BAYONA, 430 Dauphine Street, New Orleans, LA 70112, 504-525-4455; GALATOIRE’S, 209 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA 70130, 504-525-2021;  BROUSSARD'S, 819 Conti Street, New Orleans, LA 70112, 505-581-3866

© 2000 Sarah Jane English
Sarah Jane: sarajane@onr.com
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