The Sarah Jane English Newsletter:  35th Edition
June 20, 2000

 

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices are suggested retail and vary store to store)

Various Varietals:

Sauvignon Blanc

Chardonnay: I've tasted many excellent ones recently:


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NEWS

SPECIAL Medical News: According to research by the Jordan Heart Institute, the antioxidant molecules in white wine are twice as effective as those in red wine.  Although white wine contains fewer antioxidants than red wine, the body more readily absorbs the antioxidants in white wine. 

BERINGER WINE ESTATES, which includes Beringer Vineyards, Chateau Souverain, Chateau St. Jean, Meridian Vineyards, Stags' Leap Winery and St. Clement Vineyards and other brands from Italy, France and Chile, has announced plans to develop an in-house cooperage to produce a portion of the company's growing need for high quality wine barrels.

PEAK WINES INTERNATIONAL announced that at the San Diego National Wine Competition with a total of 372 wineries entering 1,844 wines, every varietal produced at CANYON ROAD Winery received a medal: CANYON ROAD 1999 Chardonnay $10, gold;  1999 Sauvignon Blanc $8, gold; 1998 Cabernet $10, gold and 1998 Merlot, $10, bronze.

SONOMA COUNTY SHOWCASE OF WINE & FOOD, July 13-15, 2000, promises to break from the pack when it comes to wine events.  This year's fundraiser has three-days of wine and food tasting, a performance by the San Francisco Symphony, a barrel auction, silent auction, golf tournament, winery lunches and dinners and educational seminars with vineyard tours. (Please see calendar)

GALLO OF SONOMA products have enjoyed awards and acclaim around the world.  At VinItaly, Gallo of Sonoma 1992 E & J Gallo Sonoma Estate Cabernert Sauvignon received the grand gold medal and the 1991 won a gold--the only one presented to a U.S. winery.  More than 1,850 wines from 28 countries were reviewed and 99 were awarded in 22 categories.  In France's Vinalies Internationales Wine Competition, 1,600 wines from 667 producers of 35 countries were included and Gallo of Sonoma won silver medals for:1995 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon, 1996 Estate Bottled Chardonnay, 1995 Barrelli Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995 Frei Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, 1996 Laguna Ranch Chardonnay and 1997 Sonoma County Chardnonnay.  Gallo of Sonoma won 19 awards at the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition.

SUTTER HOME WINERY has released The Sutter Home Napa Valley Cookbook.  CEO Bob Trinchero says, "Enormous changes have occurred in Napa Valley over the past 50 years.  What remains unchanged is the abundance of high-quality, locally grown produce and the legacy of the German, French, Italian, Hipanic and Asian pioneers who settled it and whose culinary traditions continue to shape Napa Valley cooking.  Our book expresses it."  Chronical Books, $22.95; www.chroniclebooks.com

KING ESTATE Director of Viticulture Brad Biehl believes the next 20 years should prove to be very exciting for the Oregon wine industry as more and more vineyards are planted to a variety of clones on phylloxera resistent rootstock.   These combinations coupled with increased knowledge and fine- tuned viticultural techniques, should bring a diversity of flavor and aroma precursors not yet seen in Oregon.  "Oregon viticulture is dynamic right now, and I can't wait to see these vineyards in 20 years."

ST. SUPERY Winery announced the acquisition of an additional 500-acre vineyard land near Pope Valley.

KORBEL offers the Korbel Wedding Hotline to provide helpful tips that will ease the stress of wedding plans: 1 (800) 7-KORBEL offers automated 24 hour, seven days a week advice. (Please see related information below)

DeLILLE CELLARS President and CEO Charles Lill says, "This year our small winery celebrates its eighth anniversary.  Each year has been very happy  thanks to your loyal support and the appreciation you've shown us."   DeLille was planned to remain small and it has--4,200 cases.  It has become known across the U.S. as one of the premier wineries.  When I first visited DeLille shortly after it opened, I barrel tasted wines as well as the bottles with Winemaker Chris Upchurch and knew that this wine was something special.  It has stayed just that--something very special and beautifully made.  I visited him again in 1999.   Of that vintage, Chris says, "I'm so pleased with the '99 harvest.  It gave us black-purple color, high extracts, plenty of natural acidity and great overall size and ripeness.  We haven't seen color, power and extract like this since 1979.   It's due to superior fall ripening."  Each of the DeLILLE wines is quite simply superb.  It is on my preferred list as one of the top ten wines made in America.  Congratulations on the eighth year!

CHALONE WINE GROUP will purchase JADE MOUNTAIN, a Napa Valley brand, for $3.5 million.

THE WINE INSTITUTE, the public policy organization of California wineries, has provided an initial $150,000. unrestricted gift to the National Stroke Association to disseminate the new federal Dietary Guidelines for Americans to 50,000 U.S. physicians.

SOUTHCORP executives announced John Handel as the new President - North America, a business which in 1999 sold 1.9 million cases worth 85 million   U.S. dollars.  A restructuring of global operations of the Wine Group will have four profit centers: North America, United Kingdom, Europe and Asia in order to achieve further significant growth.


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NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

BERINGER 1998 Private Reserve Chardonnay $36, "We select the most complex, concentrated flavors in the vineyard and consistently get rich fruit.   We produce the grapes for this wine by the vine," Winemaker Ed Sbragia says.   "We ensure that each vine is balanced."  1998 growing season began late with cool weather extending into early summer.  The grapes met optimal maturity.   Each block's wine was barrel fermented and agaed separately.  It gives the wine a rich, nutty dimension along with being  buttery and creamy."

BELVEDERE has welcomed a new viticulturalist, Australian Arthur O'Connor.  He's working to convert all estate vineyards to organic (two-year plan).   Additionally, BELVEDERE has removed 60 mature chardonnay vines to plant 67 valley oaks as part of theSonoma Country ReLeaf program.  They also invite guests to stroll and sniff the organic tasting garden.   BELVEDERE 1998 Russisan River Chardonnay $18"is made in a full, rich style, elegantly blended with toasty oak, to offer concentrated spiced apples, vanilla and tropical fruits."  BELVEDERE 1998 Merlot, Sonoma $14 "this extra late harvest gave red grapes maturing time on the vine.  This one is medium-bodied with fresh, fruity aromas and flavors, notes of cherry and raspberry., well-balancaed."

CAMPANILE 1999 Pinot Grigio $11: Winemaker Aaron Pott used a slow, cold fermentation of free-run for the aromas of orange blossoms and fresh crisp lemon-pear-apple fruit and no oak for this delicious wine.  Chilled to about 48 degrees, it makes a great starter and accompanies many foods well.

                         

BUFFALO RIDGE Winemaker Tom Eddy discovered a promising young block of Zinfandel at French Camp Vineyard outside San Luis Obispo.  At 1,700 acres, it is the largest single vineyard on California's Central Coast, and one of the most remote.  Tom says, "The first Buffalo Ridge Zinfandel is a big, powerfuul wine, rich with blackberry pie, raisin and berry aromas, sweet  black fruit notes, and cracked black pepper, some spice and vanilla, and a clove-like silky finish.  The second bottling of Syrah is rich, ripe and big, filled with raspberry and briary fruit notes, hints of vanilla, nutmeg and clove spice and a robust palate and finish."  

                         

FORREST GLEN Winemaker Ed Moody says that customers are asking for alternative wines to the regularly requested ones; hence, he's offering his FORREST GLEN 1999 Pinot Grigio, $10 (later this year, Sangiovese).  The Pinot Grigio is lighter, more delicate, fruitier, yet still with some heft and integrity as a stylish alternative to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.  It's also crisp and clean, he adds. FORREST GLEN Merlot, $10, is what a friend calls an "easy drinking" Cabernet.   Ed says there's silkiness and elegance on the palate and lots of lush fruit and a very long finish.  He recommends it with barbeque or on a formal table with roast, stew or an assortment of cheeses.

LA SCOLCA 1998 Gavi "Valentino" $14: expresses high quality Gavi at an affordable price.  Identifying with  modern consumer tastes, this wine has something for everyone: pronounced fruit, lively acidity and a dry finish.   LA SCOLCA led the movement to establish a new quality level for dry Italian white wines when the Soldati family launched their Gavi in 1966.  Gavi comes from a small growing area in northwestern Italy, north of Genoa.  The 62-acre La Scola estate is an artisanal winery which pioneered modern, controlled vinificiation in stainless steel to preserve the subtle fruit of the Cortese grape.  Yields are kept low.  Delicate anad well-structured, enjoy this wine as an aperitif and throughout a meal based on fish and light dishes.

KING ESTATE 's leading white wine varietal is Pinot Gris.   They have been dedicated to producing exceptional quality Oregon wines--specifically Pinot Gris (45% of total production), Pinot Noir and small amounts of Chardonnay.   KING ESTATE 1998 Pinot Gris, $14, displays aromas of peaches, passion fruit, papaya, apple with hints of almond and fig, is perfectly balanced, nice and round mid-palate with a crisp, lingering citrus finish.  KING ESTATE 1998 Pinot Gris Reserve $18, has tropical fruit aromas, guava, papaya, tangerine and mandarin, a waif of spring flowers with a smooth mouthfeel, rich fruit flavor and hints of hazelnut and spice, medium bodied with good viscosity and a solid acid structure with a long elegant finish.

VALLEY OF THE MOON 1998 Pinot Blanc, $20 has released this food-friendly wine to pair especially with scallops, grilled prawns or any shellfish.   This traditional Alsatian wine is a blend of 89% pinot blanc and 11% chardonnay, was fermented in stainless steel and aged in French oak for five months.  It is crisp, dry and elegant with the fruit notes of apple and melon.   VALLEY OF THE MOON 1997 Cuvee de la Luna $25 includes selected wines from individual barrel lots from Sonoma County's premier viticultural areas.  The elegant result is a powerful wine, aromas of black currants, pipe tobac, black cherries, and toasty oak for a luscious, intense red wine of the highest qualitly.    VALLEY OF THE MOON 1997 Zinfandel Sonoma Valley $15, "full-bodied, intense raspberries, figs and spiciness carried through to a clean finish"

                           

CLOS DU BOIS 1999 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Sonoma $14 is loaded with fruit.  Try it nicely chilled on a hot summer's day with fresh pears, pistachios, for a starter, and then with roasted pork loin with a pear sauce.  CLOS DU BOIS is one of the best-selling super-premium Chardonnays in America and a versatile food wine.  This one offers forward fruit with complex aromas of jasmine, tropical fruits and citrus.

FERRARI-CARANO Winemaker George Bursick says FERRARI-CARANO 1997 Chardonnay Reserve $32 came from both Napa (55%)--cool Carneros,  and Sonoma (45%)--warm and sunny Alexander Valley.  "The climatic and clonal differences create wines of extraordinary elegance and finesse, and I used full barrel fermentation, extended lees contact and extensive barrel aging.  The wine doesn't need long bottle aging because we farmed for a lower yield that results in more intensity and earlier, fuller grape maturity.  The wine is beautifully focused and balanced."   FERRARI-CARANO 1997 Merlot, Sonoma $23 represents one of the finest red wine vintages in California in the last two decades.  "I took advantage of this harvest by selecting special lots of merlot, cabernet and malbec grapes grown in our estate vineyards--mostly Alexander and Dry Creek valleys--to blend a delicious and smooth Merlot.  These micro-climates and soil types create a complex, multi-dimensional wine with layers of flavor and richness."   FERRARI-CARANO Tresor Reserve, Sonoma County Red Wine $65 has been called a treasure since its first release (1988) and in 1993,  Tresor was added to reflect the fact.  It's a classic Bordeaux blend of five varietals.  1995 is heralded as one of the finest of the decade for Cabernet blends.  The wine has layers of fruit flavors, textures and richness and is accentuates berries and chocolate with a smooth and long finish.  Its shows its commitment to excellence.

QUIVIRA's family owned vineyard and winery focuses on estate grown zinfandel and sauvignon blanc from Fig Tree Vineyard.  These  varieties are distinctly suited to Dry Creek Valley.  The other wine produced is the QUIVIRA Dry Creek Cuvee, a Rhone-style blend.   Of their 90 acres, 75 are planted in grapes.  "Dedicated to hand work and hard work, "says Winemaker and General Manager Grady Wann, "our goal is to  capture the accentuate the luscious, lively fruit from our surrouonding vineyards.  We've developed the winemaking techniques to best express the qualities inherent in the vineyard."  QUIVIRA 1998 Dry Creek Cuvee $15, "We ferment and barrel-age individually our four  wines--37% grenache, 33% mourvedre, 19% syrah and 11% zinfandel.  The result is a fruity, succulent and impeccably balanced wine."  QUIVIRA 1998 Zinfandel $18,"represents full flavor extraction and soft tannins and shows full expression of our zin-berry fruit."

ARMIDA Winery is located on a hill in the northern end of Russian River Valley.  The wines include Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir and a  Zinfandel from Dry Creek.   The wines are being well-received and are ones you'll enjoy discovering. 

CAIN 1997 Cuvee (66%Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc) $24, "Cain Cuvee is a new style Cabernet blend," says Winemaker/General Managaer Chris Howell. "This wine is not about Big Oak, Inky, Drying Tannins.  We look for a mouthwatering fresh palate and silky finish--just the thing to complement today's lighter, spicier dishes.  1997 was a classical vintage for Napa Valley cabernet when fruit ripened uniformly and fully.   It gave the Cain Cuvee sweet, rich wines to be blended."

JEKEL 1998 Chardonnay $11, "green apple, peach, pineapple, citrus, touch of spiciness, crisp and balanced, enjoy with shrimp salad, vegetarian appetizers, sauteed seafood, mushroom pasta, oven roasted poultry and veal and pork dishes."

CHALONE WINE GROUP, Ltd. specializes in producing promium red and white wines from distinct estate vineyards in unique growing regions.  In California, the company owns and operates Chalone Vineyards in Monterey County, Acacia Winery in the Carneros District of Napa County, Jade Mtn. in Napa County and Carmenet in Sonoma County and others.    CHALONE Vineyard Winemaker Dan Karlsen says 1998 was a tough year to be a winegrower.  Cold spring weather delayed harvest by six weeks.  It led to poor flowering and resulted in one of Chalone's smallest crops ever.  "The silver lining," Dan says, "is that the quality of our Chardonnay is some of the best I've ever seen in my 19 years of making wine."   Well, enough said.  There you have it.  Be sure to  look for the CHALONE 1998 Chardondnay $31.   ACACIA 1998 Pinot Noir, Carnernos $25, Winemaker Michael Terrien says, "Consummating the lousiest spring in our collective memory, the cold late-May rains of 1998 coincided with bloom in Carneros.  Fat raindrops fell on delicate pinot noir flowers and the pollen grains were drowned.  Herein is the origin of the ignominious origins of this startling vintage."  Nonetheless, the naturally low yield was kind to the wine.  Dark, deep, dense, wines evoled and the ACACIA 1998 Pinot Noir tastes of well-ripened plums, blackberries, peach flesh braced with carmelized barrel char, fruitiness with spice of mace, close and cinnamon.  Who could ask for more: serve with roast lamb and duck.     ACACIA 1998 Chardonnay, Carneros $21, says General Manager Michael Richmond, " . . . proved to be very entertaining.  My firsts opportunity to work with Michael Terrien was great and we put into practice a few new procedures.  The result was a very luscious Chardonnay with crispness and something I call gingerbread and coconuts."  That sent me running for a bottle and I think it should you as well.     CARMENET 1998 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Edna Valley $16, says Winemaker Karl Wright, "Because this region has one of the longest ripening seasons in California, the aromas and flavors are unusually intense and rich."  I agree.  Try it and I'm sure you'll llike it.     ECHELON 1998 Syrah $14.50, is a first wine.   Winemaker Larry Brooks says, "Most of the Syrah (75%) and all of the Grenache (20%) came from the Sacramento delta.  We hoped it would do well and we were not disappointed.  At the table this wine occupies the place between Pinot Noir and Merlot.  It has the heady though different aroma of Pinot Noir and the weight of a god Merlot.  It will make great quaffing at casual meals."      EDNA VALLEY VINEYARD 1998 Chardonnay $16.50,  says Winemaker Clay Brock, "has highly concentrated fruit and full development of complex flavors; it's full-bodied with aromas of pineapple, tropical fruits, peaches and lime, with   balancing acidity and a long finish."   Here's a lovely array of CHALONE WINES for your pleasure.

WILD HORSE WINERY has announced the debut of an exciting new line of wines: EQUUS.  EQUUS identifies wines produced at Wild Horse from the classic Rhone grape varietals: grenache, syrah, viognier, mourvedre and roussanne.  None is new to Wild Horse, which has produced wines from them since 1989; however, they were sold only at the tasting room.  The response has urged the national program.  The debut wines are the EQUUS 1997 Syrah Paso Robles $20 and EQUUS 1998 Viognier Central Coast $20.  The Latin name translates to horse.  It's speculated that the horse evolved over 60 million years, much of it in America with the Eohippus--"Dawn horse."   It disappeared ten thousand years ago, reason unknown.  Horses returned to America with Christopher Columbus and the Spanish explorers.  The EQUUS label's horse is inspired by the Lascaux cave artwork in France.   EQUUS 1997 Syrah, "blueberries, cherry, herbes de Provence, slight earthiness, silky palate, beautiful balance, enjoy with roasts, pork loin, lamb, beef stews, hard cheeses.  EQUUS 1998 Viognier, "mineral and honeysuckle, rich , opulent, exotic notes, enjoy with Thai foods, smoked duck, pork dishes and as aperitif."

ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY Winemaker Tim Mondavi says, "I'm particularly interested in the relationship between taste and texture in wine.  The goal for each wine in our portfolio is to balance all components with particular attention to crafting gentle wines with layers of flavor.  Each of the ROBERT MONDAVI Napa Valley wines exemplifies this philosophy.  These wines from our estate vineyard and Napa growers are notable for bright intensity of fruit, generosity and silky mouth feel.  Vineyard practices contribute to these textural complexities."

A Robert Mondavi Family of Wines member, IO Winemaker Ken Brown has a passion for Rhone wines and introduced Rhone-style wines to Santa Barbara County.   Ken's first vintage was the 1996  IO--in Greek mythology IO was a strong-willed beauty who so captivated Zeus he took the form of a mist rolling over the land to visit her.  The wine is a harmonious blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre that  was released in 1999 to critical and consumer acclaim. 

ROBERT MONDAVI COASTAL wines intend to express the best of the appellations along the California coast--from Monterey and Santa Barbara to Sonoma and Mendocino.  Winemaker Ken Shyvers selects vineyards by microclimates that enhance the characters of each variety.

In Tuscany, 1997 is considered one of the most outstanding vintages of recent years.  LUCENTE (Lu-CHEN-teh) is the joint venture between Robert Mondavi and Marchesi de Frescobaldi of Italy.   The 1997 LUCENTE is a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot from three of the finest Frescobaldi estates.

LAKE SONOMA 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley $25, "to extract the deepest color and character of the grapes, the fruit fermented warmly with juice pumped from the bottom of the tank over the top cap.  The wine was pressed off the skins at dryness and allowed to settle in a stainless steel tank.  To finish malolactic, the wine was racked to both French and American barrels and aged for 30 months.  The result is a full-bodied wine with cherry, berry, currant and cassis over a background of oak.   This is a lovely wine.

ZD Chardonnay was long my bellwether wine for luscious delectable Chardonnays before I enjoyed their Cabernet Sauvignon.  They obviously have the luscious touch.  ZD WINES reported years of experimenting with small lots of fruit from several regions in California and differet blends to get the Cabernet Sauvignon they're producing today.  Ultimately, they decided that Napa Valley fruit was best for their Cabs.  ZD 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley$40 is a blend from several low-yielding vineyards with a small amount of Merlot for softness.  There is a high proportion of mountain fruit.  Each lot is crushed and fermented separately and placed in small American oak barrels to age for 24 months.  ZD 1998 Pinot Noir, Carneros $32," this long growing season, short-crop vintage produced an elegant intensity, bouquet of cherries, violets, cinnamon and spicy vanilla, a complex velvety mouth and lasting finish."  There are only 1,694 cases so start your search today.

BROWN-FORMAN WINE GROUP has formed a joint venture with McPherson Wines of Australia.  Andrew McPherson will continue as managing director.  "With this venture, I want to bring the adventure of Australia to America," he says.  "Our authentically Australian wines are of the highest quality and styled for the varietal drinker."   www.mcphersonwines.com

FETZER consistently offers a range of reliable quality, reasonably priced, well-made wines.  Here are some of the latest treats.

BEAULIEU VINEYARDS 1998 BEAUZEAUX Winemaker's Collection Red Wine $20 is a fanciful treat.  Beaulieu's Winemaker Collection refers to unique, limited-release wines that reflect the winemaker's personal style and passion for wine.   Beauzeaux (pronounced Bozo) is an amusing blend of Zinfandel, Valdiguie, Charbono, Petite Sirah, Primitivo and Grenache.  It's an orchestra--not chamber music.   The wine has a big nose, generous body, and a taste as big as its size--34 feet.   It's a virtual three-ring circus in the mouth with "in-your-face" berry pie flavors.  It can be juggled with many flavorful foods, from a sword of flaming shish-kebob to circus bratwurst.

NAPA RIDGE has been bought by Bronco Wine Company, according to Marketing Manager Renata Franzia: "Great-grandfather Giuseppe grew and sold grapes in 1892 to launch the family business; from 1933-73, my grandfather grew the business then named Franzia Brothers Winery--now owned by The Wine Group, and in 1973 my father and relatives founded Bronco.  The new releases are listed below.

MILLSREEF wine comes from the North Island of New Zealand where premium wines have been grown for more than a century in the Hawkes Bay region.  MILLSREEF 1999 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Hawkes Bay $13, "It's made from fruit 30% barrel fermented and aged for five months in one and two-year-old French barriques (Bordeaux barrels, 59 gals.),  a fine example of a powerful, complex style, acclaimed for Hawkes Bay,  mouthfilling, rich, ripely herbaceous, subtle French oak seasoning and creamy." 

ST. SUPERY 1996 Meritage Red, Napa Valley $40, "This Bordeaux blend from our estate vineyards," says Winemaker Michael Scholz, "had extended barrel aging to give it remarkable complexity, silkiness and elegance.  It has rich, ripe, sweet berry fruit, tones of oak, chocolate and anise, briar berry and licorice finish."

CLOS DU VAL wines are a favorite at my table.  Winemaker Bernard Portet brought his wines to my home for a tasting a couple of years ago and my students are still remarking about the extraordinary experience.  CLOS DU VAL's signature wine, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon was released June 1, along with the only 100% Sangiovese from the Stag's Leap District.   Additionally, President/Winemaker Bernard Portet announced the release of three rare, limited production wines from the winery's recently introduced Terroir Series: Vineyard Georges III Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon and the 1998 Ariadne.  "These single vineyard or proprietary wines," Portet says, "have distinguishing characteristics that reflect the terroir from which they came.  A rich, dramatic, midnight blue label embroidered wtih gold script and border highlights sets apart the label of these strictly allocated collection from the other Clos du Val wines."  Also, Clos du Val is the exclusive  importer of TALTARNI wines from Australia.  The new releases include still and sparkling wines.

PRESTON's CEO Lou Preston says, "We've been growing and producing Rhone-like products for a decade (Syrah double that).  We also blend, subscribing to the forest-is-more-than-the-sum-of-trees idiom.  That includes our "Faux" and "Vin Gris."  These wines are not the result of a shotgun wedding.  We planted and nurtured these grapes on our Dry Creek property expressly to create this wine. Our Viognier, however, is not blended."

THE HESS COLLECTION WINERY, according to owner Donald Hess: " The wines of The Hess Collection embody the finest expression and dedication of the winemaker's art and the mystique of tradition. They reflect the unique character of the powerful mountain grapes that are grown on our 280 acres of vineyard on the steep, austere and volcanic slopes of Mount Veeder.   Our 350 acre vineyard in the Pinnacles area of Monterey County provides the fruit that is the backbone of the Hess Select philosophy. Additionally, we also blend grapes chosen from some of California's greatest wine regions to produce wines that emphasize the crisp, fresh, and true varietal fruit flavors."

GLORIA FERRER has released the estate grown 1998 Carneros Chardonnay.  Bright, crisp and elegant, the wine shows flavors of pineapple, fig, ripe pear and melon balanced with toasty undertones.  GLORIA FERRER 1998 Chardonnay $20 is sillky with apple-citrus flavors and a touch of caramel.  Production was limited due to El Nino.  Hand harvested, whole-cluster pressed combined for a balanced, long finish.  This wine is consistently good every year.


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ETUDE Wines Has New Directions

ETUDE owner Tony Soter wants to set the record straight: "Contrary to popular speculation, I have not disappeared in the Oregon woods." True, he may be less visible since he's not dividing his time between his winery and six other client wineries. These days his energies have personal priorities, such as his wife of four years, Michelle, their daughter, Olivia (17 months),  the development of their Oregon vineyard and the building of a small residence and guesthouse on the property. His commitment for Etude Wines has redoubled with his newfound freedom to focus on his own wines.  He is developing new wines: Etude Heirloom Pinot Noir (special, rare clones) and in the future, vineyard designated Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. His commitments with exceptional growers will allow an array of site-specific bottlings representing the diversity of soil and microclimates in Sonoma and Napa. "This is not aggressive growth, but creative diversification," he says. Production will remain 10,000 to 12,000 cases.     "Our Oregon  wine farm has yielded auspicious results from the older vines purchased with the property," Soter says. "Additional new plantings will bring the total number of vines to 22 acres and eventually a wine production of 2500 cases per year. Besides our obvious desire to grow and make great Pinot Noir, we're making sparkling wine, a first in my 25 years in the industry."  The Soters' first releases from Oregon will be 1998 Pinot Noir and 1997 Brut Rose in the spring of 2001.    Another reason Soter seems scarce these days is his practicing for his summer sailboat race from San Francisco to Hawaii.   

ETUDE 1998 Pinot Noir Carneros $32, "Our goal is a distinctly styled Pinot Noir of the highest quality, satisfying any Burgundian urge with pride of its California roots.  Etude is sourced from several unique Carneros vineyards, farmed to Etude's strict standards of sound viticultural practices for pure, intense and uniformly ripe fruit.  All the wines are aged for 12 - 14 months in the finest French oak barrels. The wines are  rigorously selected from the best casks."  A small 1998 crop from an erratic early season had plenty of ripening time with one of the best wines in years."     The wine has  classic bright red fruit aromatics woven together with  cinnamon, sandalwood and a hint of mystery. The palate is supple and graceful and not overtly tannic. The flavors are penetrating and lengthy.

ETUDE 1998 Pinot Gris $20 "is our first significant commercial release with 400 cases.  The Carneros grapes were grown by  Becky and Lee Hudson on a six-acre plot planted with three certified Alsatian selections. Our mission is to produce a distinctive, highly drinkable example of the breed.  The simple, uncomplicated winemaking pressed whole grapes; the juice was allowed to ferment and mature undisturbed for eight months in small (75 gallons) stainless vats before bottling--a pure and elegantly rendered expression of the grape.  It's creamy texture and refreshing balance have no residual sugar and never touched even a sliver of oak. The exotic aromas really grab your attention while the pure flavors and lively finish beg for another sip. Try lean pork tenderloin roasted over a bed of sliced apples or spicy gumbo or paella.  It's a great aperitif all by itself.

ETUDE 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon $40, "involves blending several distinctive vineyards and traditional varieties. It is a wine of understated power and grace that allows the grapes to take center stage.   The key 1996 harvest issue was very warm weather.  Napa heat waves can put vines under severe stress,   causing dehydration and its problems.  Strong vines can recover and they then can offer more.  This was the difference in 1996 between ripe, raisiny, alcoholic wines with green tannins and truly rich wines of substance and finesse.  The 1996 Etude Cabernet is noteworthy for its powerful structure and yet, opulent texture, suggesting layers of blue, black and red fruits with 100% New French Oak suggesting   roasted coffee, chocolate and vanilla. There is a fine equilibrium to this young wine that should evolve harmoniously for years. We expect this power-packed wine to unwind slowly over perhaps two decades but it should always be supple enough to sample with pleasure anytime along the way.  

JORDAN Winemaker Rob Davis in Austin

Rob Davis is a marvelously chatty man, full of entertaining and informative wine comments.  He has been the winemaker at Jordan since its inception in 1976 and still spends his vacations traveling wine regiogns to taste wines--Arizona, Vermont, France, South Africa, whatever area seems compelling.  Wines everywhere, he concludes--including those from the more than 1000 wineries in California, have improved markedly.   "I'm amazed everywhere I go," Rob says.  "I don't think I'll live long enough to visit all wine regions."  He would do well to stay in his own backyard and enjoy his Jordans. They are, quite simply, lovely, enticing, and satisfying in everyway.     What separates JORDAN from the others—and we’re trying to make the world’s best—is one word: Tom Jordan. He has invested the money needed to produce the finest Bordeaux-style wine in California. Twenty-four years ago in California, when he began, ageworthiness was more important than drinkability. Now it is estimated that 80% of the wine bought is consumed within two hours of purchase and 90% of what is produced doesn’t need any aging time.     Historically, aging is British because they had the cellars for it. Tom wanted wine on your table in four years time. He chose the Château concept—ownership control including vineyards (how they grow their wine is important; that is, grapes are measured by the yield per acre.). Single ownership makes a contribution as well. Also, the consistency of product is related to workers: enologist, vineyardist, winemaker have remained the same at Jordana nd it give consistency.  Rob’s goal is to have the wine drinkable in four years and yet age well too; however, he stressed that it's the individual’s opinion about his wines that counts—not his.      We tasted a vertical of Rob's Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon and I was so pleased that all the wines showed well.  From youth to the older vintages, Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon makes a delectable drink.  Here are my tasting notes.

KORBEL  Hot Tips for Weddings

    Wedding bells are ringing . . . and so is the Korbel Wedding Hotline. Korbel Champagne and recording artist Kenny G,  offer advice through the Korbel Wedding Hotline. Now in its fifth year, the enhanced hotline is a helpful resource for all – whether planning a wedding or participating in one. Dial 1 (800) 7-KORBEL to ease the stress of wedding preparation. Friends and family are invited to call for tips on how to help the happy couple make it through their big day.     Callers can listen to a variety of topics, find wedding party member responsibilities, and learn sample wedding toasts and tips, including toasting etiquette and helpful information on selecting and storing champagne. Couples will also be able to obtain an entry form to enter the "Korbel Champagne and Kenny G Wedding Song Serenade Contest." The contest will give one lucky couple the romantic wedding package of a wedding ceremony at BellagioÔ hosted by Korbel in Las Vegas on October 1, 2000. Callers can also obtain a free Kenny G "The Wedding Song" CD single, while supplies last.     1 (800) 7-KORBEL offers automated advice 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Included on the hotline are helpful tips for the best man and maid or matron of honor. This duo is a very important part of the couple’s wedding preparation and wedding day. Here are just a few ways the best man and maid or matron of honor can be prepared to assist the bride and groom-to-be.

Best Man:

Maid or Matron of Honor:


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Sarah Jane: sarahjane@sarahjanewineandfood.com

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