The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 34th Edition
May 9, 2000

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TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)

TEXAS WINES

• Becker Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $15
• Cap*Rock Topaz Royale$7
• Escondido Cabernet Sauvignon $10
• Fall Creek Sauvignon Blanc $8
• Spicewood Chardonnay $12

NORTHWEST USA WINES
(California unless indicated otherwise)

• St. Francis Merlot $22
• St. Francis Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon $16
• Dry Creek Fume Blanc $11.50
• Dry Creek Heritage Clone Zinfandel $15
• King Estate Pinot Gris, Oregon $14
• Clos du Bois Calcaire Chardonnay $20
• Clos du Bois Winemaker's Reserve Malbec $40 (only 775 cases and worth the search)
• Columbia Crest Columbia Valley Merlot, Washington $12
• Haywood Cabernet Sauvignon $10

FRENCH WINES

• 1997 REGNIE, Cuvee des Braves Vieilles Vignes, Joel Rochette, Beaujolais $12
• 1996 CHENAS, Pierre Sarrau Selection, Beaujolais $15
• 1997 COTE de BROUILLY, Domaine de la Pierre Bleue, Olivier Ravier, Beaujolais $16
• 1997 MOULIN-a-VENT, Louis Tete, Beaujolais $17
• 1997 JULIENAS, Chateau des Capitans, Robert Sarrau, Beaujolais $14

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NEWS

Ecco Domani was named "Hot Brand" for the second year.   Impact magazine, a publication covering global news and research for the drinks industry, announced its annual "Hot Brand" awards in the March issue.  Ecco Domani appeared in the import category for continuing "to capitalize on the import sector’s trends toward varietals like pinot grigio and merlot, priced in the $7-$10 range per 750 ml."   In 1998 Impact cited Ecco Domani as the only Old World wine included in the list of imported Hot Brands. The brand grew more than 73 percent (650,000 case depletions).

The Sonoma Mission Inn has completed a $20 million investment in its properties--the spa now has 41 treatment areas, an exercise studio, a gym, a boutique and dressing facilities.  The historic golf course, sold during the depression, has been reacquired and refurbished. There are 30 new suites.  For information: 707/938-9000, www.sonomamissioninn.com

Rhonda and Don Carano, owners of Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Eldorado Hotel/Casino, purchased a majority interest in Vintners Inn, John Ash & Co.

Spicewood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Spicewood, Texas, won two "Best of Show" choices at the KLRN Benefit and People's Choice Competition.

Becker Vineyards, Stonewall, Texas, and Perini Ranch Steakhouse, Buffalo Gap, Texas, were featured at the April James Beard Foundation dinner in New York.   Becker Vineayrds Reserve Chardonnay won silver, the Viognier won silver, Estate Chardonnay won bronze and the Muscat Canelli won bronze medals at the Dallas Morning News Wine Competition.

Robert Mondavi Winery was named "Winery of the Year" by industry authority Jon Fredrikson.

Chefs Thomas Oden and Franco Dunn opened SANTI, a new restaurant in Geyserville, CA, that serves "honest" Italian cuisine, 707/857-1786.

Far Niente partners have launched a new winery, Nickel & Nickel Vineyards.  It will be built on a 40-acre site across from Robert Mondavi and will specialize in only single-vineyard wines.

Seguin Moreau USA. INC. has added two unique and innovative barrels to its line.  The U-Stave™ Barrel and the Assemblage Euro Barrel. For information contact 707/252-3408, FAX 707/252-0319.

MIRASSOU's white-labeled Family Selection tier is being re-designated Coastal Selection as part of the company's ongoing modernization plan.  It joins the existing wine tiers: Harvest Reserve, Single Vineyardd and Showcase Selection.  The 6th-generation family members have purchsed the Mission Vineyard in Monterey County.

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NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

CLOS DU VAL released its 1997 Merlot $28 and 1998 Carnernos Chardonnay.  President and Winemaker Bernard Portet said: "1997 was an outstanding year, both in quality and quantity.  After a lovely spring and excellent crop set, the summer temperatures were mostly moderate until August.  An extremely early harvest in Napa brought much fruit in a very condensed period of time.  In spite of scrambling to get the fruit in, it was a superb harvest."  1998 brought new packaging and a first time collaboration on the Carneros Chardonnay to produce a balanced and elegant wine.

Several big Italian red wines have been released.   CARPINETO Reserva Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 1995, $24: "aged in hillside cellars, violets, anise, cherries and tar, dry, austere, plums and black pepper; slightly tannic, long, mouth-filling finish."  MONTRESOR Amarone 1995 $27: "the family has specialized in this esoteric wine for decades and owns 250 acres in the best appellations.   In its satin-finish black bottle, the wine is full-bodied with excellent balance, great depth and the typical raisiny characteristics."   MONTRESOR Cabernet Sauvignon del Veneto Campo Madonna $14: "medium to full-bodied, berry and spice aromas, soft, rounded, good structure and balance."

TESSERA 1998 Chardonnay $10: "green apple, pear, banana, toasted hazelnut, butterscotch, full-bodied and rounded wine"

HOGUE CELLARS Winemaker David Forsyth continues to make delicious, reasonably priced wines in Washington.  Two of his latest are HOGUE 1997 Merlot and HOGUE 1998 Chardonnay ($15 each) varietals that shine in the cool, northwestern state and reflect the conscientious touch of David.  1998 was a warmer than usual vintage and the best grapes came from cooler Yakima Valley.  1997 was an almost ideal growing season with few temperature extremes.  Taste the seasons in the bottles.

R.H.PHILLIPS Wine Company has introduced the current vintages of their Rhone varietal, estate-bottled Dunnigan Hills 1998 EXP Viognier and 1997 EXP Syrah, each $14.  EXP wines were introduced in 1988 and named for explorature, a word invented by owners John, Karl and Lane Giguiere to define their experimentation with Rhone varietals in their then new Dunnigan Hills appellation (Sacramento County near Sierra Foothills).  They grow 106 acres of  viognier and 251 acres of syrah.   They are the largest single producers of Rhone varietals from one estate in the U.S.   The Viognier had, "long hang time that  brought out orange blossom, honeysuckle, peach, apricot and tropical fruit, enhanced by vanilla and spicy oak nuances, rich palate."  The Syrah (10% cabernet sauvigon) "aromas of lavendar, plum, raspberry and leather, broad in the mouth, moderate tannins and a toasty, vanilla oak finish."

DE LILLE CELLARS makes wines worth the search.   With less that a total of 3,500 total cases, the hunt will be dedicated and duly rewarded.   Try them all: Chaleur Estate Red $45, Harrison Hill $45, D2 (named for route through Bordeaux) $28.50, Doyenne $32 and Chaleur Estate Blanc $25.  These wines are special.

THE MONTEREY VINEYARD (THW) 1998 Chardonnay $7 "is crisp and refreshing, has lemon-lime, banana and butter, touch of ginger, vanillin oak"

CAIN FIVE 1996 Napa Valley (63% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot, 12% cabernet franc, 5% petit verdot, 2% malbec) likes to age in the bottle.  The 1996 harvest came early and hot.  But they waited for a thorough, gentle ripening, and even though a third of the crop was lost, the fruit that remained ripened well and made some of Cain's best wines.  Each variety counted.  Merlot contributed depth and upfront fleshiness, Malbec gave fruitiness, cabernet franc was concentrated and rich and plush verdot with tremendous fruit wrapped around the tannins.  This big wine needs some time.  It's fragrant, jammy wtih firm tannins.

MERIDIAN 1998 Edna Valley Reserve Chardonnay $15, Winemaker Chuck Ortman said, "Our crew handpicked these grapes during a warm spell which let us handle the fruit gently and selectively.  Grapes arrived at the winery in small bins at 23.26 brix.  We quickly crushed and pressed them, transferring the juice and lees into small French oak for fermentation.  During nine months of barrel aging, we stirred the lees five times to develop complex flavors and get a rich, creamy texture."

LAKE SONOMA 1998 Chardonnay $17, "three separate vineyards contributed fruit-- picked into small bins and whole-cluster pressed to keep harsh phenolic compounds at a low level, sur lie barrel aged for 10 months and five months bottle age before release.  It's rounded with tart acidity, solid oak framework, lively and complex."

ST. CLEMENT predicts that some of the most exciting wines it has ever produced are now on the market.  Napa Valley growing conditions for 1997 were ideal with complete ripeness and extended hang time offering rich, mature fruit flavors.   The essence of ripe wild blackberries, spices, sweet red currants, cedar, chocolate, dried cherry and velvety tannins are evident in both the 1997 Oroppas and the 1997 Merlot.

HAYWOOD wines are made by Buena Vista's talented Winemaker Judy Matulich-Weitz.  They are excellent values.

• HAYWOOD 1998 Chardnnay $8, "crisp, clean, toasty vanilla, fresh tropical fruits, citrus, apple, banana and long creamy finish"

• HAYWOOD 1998 Merlot $10, "bouquet of cherries, raspberries and strawberries, medium bodied, soft cranberry tannins, long smooth finish"

• HAYWOOD 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon $10, "dark cherry, soft oak, hints of vanilla, spiciness, well-balanced acidity, light tannins"

SALMON HARBOR 1998 Reserve Chardonnay $20 has a very limited production, 250 cases, but it happens to be available in Texas.  Veteran Winemaker Tom Eddy, who has been making wines for 25 year, started the label when he found some excellent fruit in Napa Valley.  This vintage will be the last Napa fruit in Salmon Harbor which will feature Washington fruit hereafter.  "Instead of crushing and destemming, we loaded the grapes diectly into the press for gentle extraction of the juice," Eddy said.  "After cold-settling, all of the juice was racked to new French oak for primary fermentation.  The wine underwent malolactic in the barreles to add mouth feel and flavor complexity."  This qualifies as a collector item--serve it with someone special.

CINNABAR 1997 Estate Chardonnay , Saratoga Vineyard $23, "A crisp, fruit-driven wine with complexity, mineral tones with sweet fruit, toasty oak and spicy nutmeg, apple, citrus, touch clove, long crisp finish, barrel fermented, aged on lees, 30% new French oak"

Owner/Winemaker Fred Peterson of PETERSON Winery makes big wines in small quantities. After 25 years as a winegrower, Fred knows that exceptional wines begin in the vineyard. He's committed to all facets of grape growing as the foundation for his delicious wines.  His grapes come from some of the best vineyards in Northern California.  Norton Ranch, a Dry Creek Valley benchland vineyard, grows Peterson's  Zinfandel, Merlot, Sangiovese and Barbera. The steep hillside, Bradford Mountain vineyard grows Fred's Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel.   A percentage of the Bradford Mountain Merlot and Zinfandel are blended with benchland fruit to produce the Peterson Dry Creek Merlot and Dry Creek Zinfandel, adding more intensity and richness to the wine.  Floodgate Vineyard, located at the far west end of Anderson Valley, is where Peterson's Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are grown.  Fred's philosophy of zero manipulation, coupled with superb grapes from high-quality vineyards, produces intensely rich, complex wines noted for their vibrant, intense fruit, considerable depth and fullness. If you want to taste the essence of the grape grower's art, enjoy the PETERSON wines.  "Great wine is a unique creation reflecting the vineyards that give it birth and the human intervention and decision-making that bring it to fruition." Fred Peterson   1997 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel - $17.00,   1997 DCV Tradizionale Zinfandel - $19.00,   1997 Bradford Mountain Zinfandel - $21.00,  1997 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir - $20.00,  1997 Dry Creek Valley Sangiovese - $14.00,  1997 Dry Creek Valley Merlot - $22.50

VALLEY OF THE MOON 1997 Syrah $30, " distinct varietal flavor, layers spicy black cherry/cassis, well-balanced, rich texture, luscious and age-worthy"

HOGUE CELLARS Winemaker David Forsyth says, "El Nino and La Nina gave Washington winemakers a lot to think about over the last two vintages.  Now that the 1998 red wines and 1999 white wines are beginning to be released it's a good time to compare the quality.  The warm, early vintage of 1998 developed ripe, mature fruit for all whites while 1999 was one of the coolest vintages on record.  We had to respond by thinning the crop to ensure even ripening and color development.  Then the extended and very warm fall turned the year into a winemaker's dream: balance across the board.  The balance is immediately evident in the 1999 whites: HOGUE CELLARS Chenin Blanc $7, Gewurztraminer $8, Johannisbrg Riesling $8 and Chardonnay $10 while the 1998 Cabernet-Merlot $10 shows the warm summer that provided plenty of extraction and color and ripe fruit flavors--with the ripeness coming instantly into focus."  Taste the vintages in these delicious wines.     And for something new and different, try David's HOGUE CELLARS GENESIS wines.  "This line is our R & D line of wines.  They're small production, interesting blends and winemaking techniques used to make the kind of wines that push the limit of everything from production of flavor.  All from the 1997 vintage, this time I made Cabernet Franc $19, Syrah $25 and Lemberger $12."   1997 was a great vintage, but you'll have to taste them in the tasting room.  Still, it's something to hope for!

BUENA VISTA 1998 Sauvignon Blanc $9, "clean, crisp, grapefruit, citrus, green apple, well-balanced and refreshing"

LAMBERT BRIDGE 1997 Merlot $22, "This signature wine of Lambert Bridge meets our highest standards.  It reflects the spectacular 1997 vintage and the qualities of expert winegrowing and ripe fruit--elegant and velvety, plummy character."

SHAFER 1998 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay $35 is one of my favorites.  "Unlike humans who remain forever rooted to their sentimental homes, grapes tend to adapt.  When you take the grape out of the country, you take the country out of the grape.  Such is the case with Dijon 95, one of the Chardonnay clones growing on Shafer's Red Shoulder Ranch in Carneros.  However, this Burgundian transplant has taken on a new world personality."  Winemaker Elias Fernandez says, "The French do a terrific job in a challenging climate; but our climate is different, and our grapes get riper with lower acidity and that affects the way we make this wine."  The wine shows that it's a remarkable combination."   Enjoy!    SHAFER 1997 SLD Cabernet Sauvignon $45 and SHAFER 1997 Firebreak $30  are memorable wines from a great year.  Doug Shafer says, "It's the tough years winemakers tend to remember, but 1997 sticks in the memory because it was a year that was almost too good.  As soon as we'd picked two or three ranches, it was apparent that not only were the grapes plentiful, but they were heavy and full of juice.  Where previously a normal day had been 40 tons, it was now 100.   In the end, what made the year memorable was that quality kept pace with quantity."  You'll love these 1997s.

ROBERT CRAIG 1997 Affinity $44 is a Bordeaux-stlye blend from Craig's estate vineyard.  "Our Affinity is deliciously smooth and elegant, offering rich, concentrated black fruit flavors.  We extract maximum color and flavor components in the winegrapes over the first two to three days of fermentation.   Grapes harvested from different vineyard blocks are kept in separate lots.   Frequent pump-overs allow flavor/color development.   Eighteen months barrel  aging in American and French wood integrates a sweet toasty oak note.   Well-structured and approachable, silky and supple, it's a rewarding drink."

BELVEDERE makes  wines with as little intervention as possible.  They come from vineyards either owned or farmed and were made with respect to  individual terroir.   All  vineyards are located within a few miles of the winery so the fruit is grown in their own backyard. BELVEDERE Anderson Valley Floodgate Vineayrd Pinot Noir $20, "Our Floodgate Vineyard is located in Mendocino, the only Belvedere Vineyard which falls outside of Sonoma. Our Pinot Noir is made in very small batches, which are punched down by hand during fermentation,  creamy and elegant .

• BELVEDERE Sonoma County Chardonnay $12, " comes from two revered grape growing sites in California, the Alexander
  and Russian River Valleys. Though these two northern Sonoma appellations lie only a few miles apart -- linked geographically by
  the meandering Russian River -- they represent dramatically different microclimates. The Alexander Valley is warm and fertile, its fruit accordingly plump, ample and round. The Russian River Valley in comparison is cool, due to incoming fog from the Pacific Ocean. Winemaker Kevin Warren has created a versatile blend which reflects both of these exceptional microclimates."

• BELVEDERE Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel $17, " the winery's oldest vines -- a plot of head-pruned Zinfandel planted by a pioneering Italian wine family a century ago. Many claim the red "Boomer series" soils here are reminiscent of Tuscany's famed terra rosa, perhaps a clue to the origin of this valley's early settlers. Gold Medal - International Taster's Guild "One of the top three Zinfandels of the Year." - Wine and Spirits Magazine
  

• KENWOOD 1998 Russian River Pinot Noir $15--"medium bodied, cherry, berry,  plum aromas/ flavors, pair with a favorite chicken or pork recipe"

• KENWOOD 1998 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc $15--"peach, citrus, vanilla, complex structure, rouond and creamy"

• KENWOOD 1998 Reserve Chardonnay $25--floral, tropical, vanilla, rich velty texture, elegant finish"

STOCK imported vermouth is Italy's best known Rosso (sweet) and Extra Dry (Secco) drink,  under $5 for the 375 ml.  This beverage is actually a wine.   Nearly 215 years ago an Italian vintner mixed white wine with botanicals (herbs, roots, seeds, fruits, etc.) and then fortified it with mistelle (a mixture of brandy and sweet grape juice).  Many think vermouth is the most adaptable ingredient in the history of mixed drinks. Try STOCK Rosso and STOCK Secco.

SILVER OAK CELLARS 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon $75, "The winter of 1995 will long be remembered for two "100-year" floods--one in January and one in March.  Our winery in Oakville was flooded both times!  Rain during bloom gave a lighter than normal set with loose clusters.  Summer and fall were mild, and this enabled the grapes to develop full of aromatic and tannic maturity.  A warming trend in Sept. and Oct. ripened the fruit to ideal levels.  This wine shows dark ruby with a complex nose of blackberry jam, chocolate, roasted coffee, sandalwood and nutmeg, has a full body and rich, elegant finish with nicely integrated tannins.  It will get smoother over the next 12 months and will improve for 15 or more years."

ESTANCIA wines are consistently praised for their excellent quality at reasonable prices.  The new releases include the following wines.

• ESTANCIA 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon $15, "bright fruit, complex briar/ oak overtones, rich, ripe red fruit with spicy oak, full, pleasing length"

• ESTANCIA 1997 DUO $22 (70% cabernet/30%sangiovese), "perfumy, violets, rich dark fruits, toasty spice, well-balanced, excellent structure"

• ESTANCIA 1997 Reserve Pinot Noir $22, "rich black cherry laced with clove and warm earth, toasty vanilla-oak, concentrated and mouthfilling"

• ESTANCIA 1998 Pinnacles Pinot Noir $15, "ripe cherry and strawberry fruit with sweet oak, dried flowers and leather, silky rounded tannins"

• ESTANCIA 1998 Reserve Chardonnay $20, "tropical fruits, rich vanilla, oak, ripe pear, melon, coconut, pineapple, long finish"

• ESTANCIA 1998 Pinnacles Chardonnay $12, "peach, melon aromas and flavors mingle with tropical fruit and nutty,  lightly oaked"

COLUMBIA CREST wines from Columbia Valley, Washington, are applauded regularly for their consistent and reliable quality and value.  Here are some of the latest releases for your pleasure.

• COLUMBIA CREST 1998 Sauvignon Blanc $8, "herbal, flinty notes, wildflowers and honey, ripe melon, crisp acidity with moderate finish"

• COLUMBIA CREST 1998 Chardonnay $9, "fruit driven, tropicals,   cinnamon, nutmeg, toasty finish, enjoy with grilled pork, shellfish, chicken"

• COLUMBIA CREST 1997 Merlot $12, "ripe raspberry, wild berries, soft and luscious, rich and ready for immediate enjoyment"

• COLUMBIA CREST 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon $11, "ripe black cherry, berry, sweet oak perfume, rich and concentrated, layers of structure"

• COLUMBIA CREST 1996 Estate Series Cabernet Sauvignon $16, "berries, dark cherry, hint of sage, spicy cedar, full-bodied, lingering finish"

GLORIA FERRER Champagne Caves has released its ninth cuvee vintage, 1992 Royal Cuvee Brut $22.  It was named for King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain in honor of their visit to California in 1987.  It is a blend of 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay from only the first gentle pressing.   It has tiny persistent bubbles, rich crown of  mousse, creamy, velvety texture.  This is an elegant, skillfullly crafted wine with a nice touch of acidity and creaminess.

GEYSER PEAK offers a number of new releases.  The BARWANG (a native Australian word meaning "swiftly moving bird")  range of wines is made by the McWilliam family, who has been handcrafating fine, award-winning Australian wines for over five generations.  Barwang is the name of the McWilliams family homestead, built early in this century, in the hilly vineyard country of central New South Wales.     GEYSER PEAK has introduced a series of "Block Collection" wines to higlight special vineyards producing distinctive, high quality fruit.  As a proper salute to these winegrowers, there's a tag on the bottle neck which pictures the growers and explains their vineyards.   "A 'block' is a unique part of a vineyard that shows the singular nature of it's growing location and conditions," says Winemaker Daryl Groom.  Geyser Peak is debuting with the 1998 Russian River Valley Benchland Chardonnay from Big River Ranch and two 1997 vintage Cabernet Sauvignons, one from steeply-terraced hillside Kuimelis Vineyard in Alexander Valley and the other from Vallerga Vineyard in the Yountville area of Napa Valley. 

• GEYSER PEAK 1998 Block Collection Chardonnay, Big River Ranch $23--"elegant, pear, green apple, melon, buttery, well-balanced"

• GEYSER PEAK 1997 Block Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, Kuimelis Vineyard $28--"black cherry, cassis, cigara box oak, spicy oak, great structure and balance with a backbone of fine-grained tannin"

• GEYSER PEAK 1997 Block Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, Vallerga Vineyard $35--"blackberry, cassis, sweet vanillin oak, well integrated tannins, rich reflection of terroir"

• BARWANG 1997 Winemaker Reserve Cabernet,  Hilltops  $14--rich blackcurrant, fresh herbs, cedary vanilla, serve with beef

• BARWANG 1997 Winemaker Reserve Shiraz, Hilltops  $20--liquorice, plum, cherry, cinnamon and coconut, serve with lamb, lasagna

• BARWANG 1997 Regional Selection Merlot, Coonawarra $20--spicy currants, blackberries, green olive, well-balanced, serve with duck

• GEYSER PEAK 1999 Johannisberg Riesling $8--"soft, delicate, floral, sweet and fruity"

• GEYSER PEAK 1997 Reserve Merlot $32--"powerful, dense, rich, red cherry, chocolate, coffee beans,  smoky, well-structured and balanced"

• CANYON ROAD 1999 Sauvignon Blanc $8--"grassy, grapefruit, lemoon, tropicals, zesty natural acidity, serve with grilled seafoods"

VALLEY OF THE MOON 1998 Sonoma County Chardonnay $17--"hand-selected grapes, rich and bold, green apple,  pear, enhanced body and complexity"

ROBERT PECOTA says he set his sights on Calistoga more than 20 years ago, certain it would be become one of Napa Valley's prime regions for big, hearty red wines.  Today my family's vision for Kara's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is to craft a wine that speaks of the superb terroir.  The unfiltered 1997 Kara' Vineyard Cabernet $35 has mulitple layers of cinnamon, cherry, plum, chocolate and sweet cedar, elegant and well balanced.

SEVEN PEAKS, the unique joint venture combining California heritage with Australian innovation, has released the second vintage of Paso Robles Shiraz and Central Coast Cabernet-Shiraz.  While young, SEVEN PEAKS is becoming known for Shiraz.   1997 was one of the earliest in the past 25 years.  The warm, dry growing conditions with low yields gave the Shiraz good tannin and sugar levels.  The blend combines the elegance and length of cabernet.  Both SEVEN PEAKS 1997 Shiraz and Cabernet-Shiraz ar $20, ripe and full-bodied, excellent color and tannins.

FETZER has introduced the newest addition to its Premium Varietal collection, 1998 FETZER Syrah $11--enjoy with pepper steak, grilled chicken sauced with Mediterranean flavors, and hearty braised veal and pork dishes.  Other new releases are FETZER 1997 Home Ranch Zinfandel $9--serve with tomato- based pastas, grilled meats, braised chicken and pizza.  FETZER 1999 Gewurztraminer $8--serve wiht spicy Asian dishes, fish, turkey and poultry, ham.  FETZER 1998 Eagle Peak Merlot $9--herb-crusted and grilled meats, dishes with pepper and anise flavors, hearty stews and Italian dishes.  FETZER 1999 Sundial Chardonnay $9--serve with roasted chicken, seafood, entrees prepared with citrus marinades and sauces.  FETZER Valley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon $10--serve with grilled meats and sausages, hearty pastas, and hamburgers.  Lovely wine for a lovely price.

FESS PARKER winery was established in 1989 by the former actor and Texas favorite.  His son Eli  makes the wines and with sister Ashley runs the place.  They own 700 acres in Santa Barbara County, 200 in production and the others coming into production over the next five years.  They aim to produce ultra-premium wines best suited to Santa Barbara's varied micro-climates made in the "American Tradition" of quality, hard work, and a pioneering spirit.  The latest offerings are FESS PARKER 1998 Santa Barbara Chardonnay $18--tropical fruits, cirus, apple, toasty oak, butter, light spice, well-balanced; FESS PARKER 1998 Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc $11--peach, melon, light grapefruit, hint grassiness, light butter and minerals; FESS PARKER 1997 Santa Barbara Pinot Noir $18--spice, strawberry, cranberry, cherry, hint rose, smokiness, intergrated oak with light cola notes;FESS PARKER 1997 Santa Barbara Syrah $20--blueberries, blackberries, coffee, tobac, mineral, moderate lingering tannins and chocolatey finish.

RAYMOND Reserve wines are considerately and deliciously priced for excellent quality.

• RAYMOND 1998 Napa Reserve Sauvignon Blanc $11--delicate herbal, nicely crisp apple and lemon, light bodied, clean and refreshing

• RAYMOND 1998 Napa Reserve Chardonnay $15--well-balanced, smooth, rich, ripe pear, honey, butterscotch, subtle oak finish

• RAYMOND 1997 Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $21.50--intense and rich, smooth and silky texture, ripe plum, blackberry and currant

AMBERHILL is a second label of Raymond and makes quality wines that defy their price.

• AMBERHILL 1998 Chardonnay $10--fresh, pleasant, flavorful, peach, pear, soft oak, pair with seafood, poultry, salmon and pasta

• AMBERHILL 1998 Sauvignon blanc $6--herbal, spice, flowery, llight, serve with shellfish, grilled seafood, sharp cheeses and salads

• AMBERHILL 1997 Merlot $11--blackberry, plum, toasty oak, smooth, soft tannins serve with smoked fish, BBQ and hearty pasta

• AMBERHILL 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon $11-smooth and mellow, curran, black fruit, balanced body, serve with grilled beef, pizza, pasta

LINDEMANS, the number one best selling import brand in the US has released its popular Bin series red wine.

• LINDEMANS 1998 Bin 50 Shiraz $8--contemporary style, blended grapes, succulent and soft, spicy, fruit flavors

• LINDEMANS 1998 Bin 45 Cabernet Sauvignon $9--assorted fresh berries, ripe and full, hints of vanilla and soft oak

• LINDEMANS 1998 Bin 40 Merlot $9--ripe delicious fruit, lively softness, dark cherry, soft plum, smoky oak

• LINDEMANS 1998 Bin 99 Pinot Noir $8--sweet strawberry-rhubarb, nutmeg, delicate oak character, nicely textured

CHATEAU ST. JEAN Winemaker Steve Reeder thinks his 1998 Pinot Noir should be a favorite wine of choice.  "I think this 1998 Pinot Noir offers just what the American wine drinking public wants--rich, ripe fruit-forward, soft and approachable.  I think Sonoma County offers great Pinot Noir." 

MAISONS MARQUES & DOMAINES USA is the importer for a number of various wines. New releases are listed below.

• de LADOUCETTE 1998 Sancerre Comte Lafond $25:  The largest and most famous Pouilly Fume vineyards in the Loire have been in the hands of the Comte Lafond and Ladoucette families since 1787 when the Comte purchased the region's largest winegrowing estate from the illegitimate daughter of French King Louis XV.  Like many families with famous vineyards, winemaking was not their principal business but merely a hobby.  The families were bankers, and some were govenors of the Banque de France.  After the French Revolution, the estate and cellars were reorganized and Pouilly-Fume gained a name for quality and became Napoleon's favorite white wine.  Phylloxera and two wars intervened and in 1972 Baron Patrick de Ladoucette took over the vineyard and concentrated on it exclusively. 

• de LADOUCETTE 1998 Pouilly Fume Ladoucette, Loire $28

• MARC BREDIF 1998 Vouvray, Loire $15

• FLEUR du CAP 1999 Chardonnay, South Africa $9

• STELLENRYCK 1999 Chardonnay, South Africa $12

• DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER 1998 Pinot Blanc, Alsace $14: Originally planted by the Romans, the monks (Prince Abbots of Murbach,  Guebwiller) later controlled the property.   Today the heirs of Nicolas Schlumberger own and culitvate 135 hectares (334 acres)--the largest in Alsace and one of the largest blocks of contiguous vineyards in France.  They also own the largest acreage of grand cru vineyards.

New appellation ROBERT MONDAVI COASTAL wines are from Monterey County, a 150-mile long valley that begins at the Pacific Ocean and runs southward, flanked by the Santa Lucia and Gabilan mountain ranges.  The two ranges form a wind tunnel, bringing fog and cold air off the ocean.  The nightly fog and wind temper the afternoon sun, slowly ripening the grapes and allowing them time to develop intense flavors.  These introductory Monterey County appellation releases show the quality and character of the distinctive fruit.  They are limited, available primarily in fine restaurants, through the wine club and at specialty shops:  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Merlot--all from 1998 and $15.  ROBERT MONDAVI Family of wines has released several other wines.

• Vichon 1997 Merlot $10--"silky, dried spices and black cherries, cinnamon and nutmeg"

• Vichon 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon $10--"blackberries and currants, rich, ripe and soft tannins"

• Vichon 1997 Chardonnay $10--"floral and spice, tropical fruit, vanilla and crispness"

• Errazuriz 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon $10--"herbal, berry, cherry, integrated vanilla oak"

• Robert Mondavi Famiglia Barbera $20--"zesty ripe plum, black fruit charcter, spice and oak nuances"

• Robert Mondavi Famiglia Sangiovese $22--"layers of red cherry, plum, dried spices, silky and elegant"

CARRAMAR Estate, pride of the Casella family, is comprised of eight vineyards thriving on 700 drip-irrigated acres in Yenda, New South Wales, Australia.   Filippo and Maria Casella left Italy in the 1950s and brought skills acquired from three generations of grape growing winemakers, eventually buying land (1965)  and starting their wine business (1969).   The state-of-the-art winery equipment includes two rotating vacuum drums, two membrane presses, two impulse presses, two large grape crushers, two centrifuges and a newly installed bottling line which handles one million cases a year.  The day-to-day operations are run by the three Casella sons--John, managing director and winemaker; Joe, sales manager, and Marcello (Mark) vineyard manager. 

• CARRAMAR Estate 1999 Chardonnay $9--"melon, peach bouquet with oak highllights, rich and full with balanced acidity"

• CARRAMAR Estate 1999 Merlot $9--"plums and black cherry, spicy American oak, full with soft tannins and balanced"

• CARRAMAR Estate 1999 Shiraz $9--"ripe raspberry, spicy oak, soft rich tannins"

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DRY CREEK VINEYARDS in Austin at EASTSIDE CAFE
Don Wallace, Dry Creek ranch manager, treated a table of tasters to an array of Dry Creek Vineyards consistently good wines at the Eastside Cafe's consistently good food.  The popular eatery showed by its many delicious platters why the tables are always filled--freshly crisp vegetables,  nicely seasoned dishes and a number of interesting starters: warm Brie with pecans, and a variety of bread-like products with various sauces.  Among others, we tasted the Dry Creek Vineyards new Reserve Series wines.  They were debuted in April during the America's Cup because their labels depict historic America's Cup yachts because both fine wines and sailing are lifelong passions of David Stare, winery founder.  The wines, however, needed no other attribution than the sampling.    The three 1997 reserve reds--Merlot, Cabernet and Zinfandel--are powerful, dense, jam-packed with dark fruits and mocha and well-structured for your pleasure.   Select your favorite varietal and you'll be pleased. 

ST. FRANCIS in Austin at GILLIGAN'S
Gilligan's provides a chatty atmosphere for its many delicious menu selections.  Everything served was indeed abundant and delectable with the lovely St. Francis wines introduced by my friend of long standing, St. Francis owner Joe Martin.  Gilligan's touch of smart marketing made it easy for me to write about the food enjoyed by presenting each guest with a menu of our luncheon service with the wines to be paired with each dish.  The wines and foods were luscious together.

• Yellow Fin Tuna Carpaccio, Chinese Pretzel, Daikoon Sprouts and Cashew Sauce with ST. FRANCIS Chardonnay: ripe fruit, apple, melon, nicely balanced acidity, rich and  persistent.
• Mesquite Grilled  Jumbo Shrimp in Sesame Seed Crust in Red Chile Duck Sauce with ST. FRANCIS Reserve Chardonnay: concentrated ripe tropical fruit flavors, vanillin oak, buttery mouthfeel, balancaed acidity and firm structure.
• Grilled Farm Raised New Zealand Venison Satay, Frisee Salad, Mustarad Honey Vinaigrette with ST. FRANCIS Merlot: full and intense, perfumed aromas plummy black fruit, spicy, vanilla ripe lush flavaors, rich and full, round tannins.
• Roasted Pork Tenderloin, Sauteed Bok Choy, Sweet Potato Pancakes, Sundried Cherry Demi Glace with ST. FRANCIS Old Vine Zinfandel: rich, viscous with long finish, exceptionally ripe with lovely balalnce of ripe tannins and fruit.

GALLO OF SONOMA in Austin at MIRABELLE
My two main arbiters of excellence for food preparation and ffesh tastes are salmon and Caesar salad.  Mirabelles passed with flying colors on both accounts.   I do believe the spicily--just right, not too much heat--encrusted piece of salmon was the very best I've been served.  It must have been flown in fresh from the coast that morning.  It was just perfect.   The meal was so well done that it gave the wines a chance to really shine as well.  When food is beautifully balanced in its seasonings and texture, it calls for a wine of equally well-made, well-balanced flavors and structure.  Such was indeed the case with the Gallo of Sonoma wine presentation of its Sonoma County tier of Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel.  The real test comes when one tries each of the varietals with the same dish.  I enjoyed each of them with the Crab and Corn Fritters, the spicy Caesar Salad and the non-pareil Encrusted Salmon.  Matt Gallo accompanied the wines and we chatted about what's happening in the vineyard.  "We're always experimenting in the vineyard," he said.  "Lately we've been doing a lot of work with clones--trying to match the best varietal with the soil.   Vineyards like consistency.  Mother Nature take out those reliables and we're trying to put them back.  Experimentation is ongoing." 

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