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The
Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 33rd Edition
March 8, 2000
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TOP
PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
Delicious wines at great value
Chardonnay
Cabernet Sauvignon
The Wines of France by Clive Coates, updated and newly released by the Wine Appreciation Guild, is a comprehensive book on the entirety of French wines. It contains the histories of the leading estates, conversational encounters with their personalities, their vintages and their best wines. Recently revised and updated, Coates gives insights into all major producers, their vineyard and vinification styles and the resulting wines. The book provides a panorama of wines from every appellation and reports on all wine regions including the lesser-known regions of the Southwest. The 11x9", hard cover, 416 -page book retails for $50. It's available at major bookstores or order from 800-231-9463.
SOUTHCORP Wines web sites: www.australianwines.com.au, www.penfolds.com, www.lindemans.com.
Sonoma Valley's CHATEAU ST. JEAN Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cepage was picked Wine Spectator's "Wine of the Year."
STIMSON LANE President and CEO Allen Shoup announced a joint venture with Australia's Petaluma Vineyards to produce super-premium Australian wines to be released mid-2000. Shoup said, "The venture, combined with our Col Solare series of red wines produced with Italy's Antinori family--and other ventures soon to be announced--demonstrataes that our company enters the new century as a global player in the premium wine industry."
JOSEPH PHELPS has removed "Vin du Mistral" from its line of Rhone wines and will use just the varietal name.
CAP*ROCK Winemaker Kim McPherson proudly releases his first reserve Chardonnay since 1991. He says the 1998 crush gave him the grapes to do it.
ESCONDIDO VALLEY WINES has released the premier vintages of four premium Texas wines. Produced by Cordier Estates in West Texas at Fort Stockton, Cordier President Leonard Garcia says the wines represent the culmination of years of effort and expertise in creating the most varietally correct, highest quality wines in their category. "The quality of the wine combined with a very upscale package has created a product sure to make its mark in the Texas wine industry," Garcia says. The name comes from legend; i.e., Conquistadores explored West Texas for the lost cities of gold and the life-giving escondido (hidden) springs. Ultimately, Escondido named the valley. The wine was created as a result of the proven loyalty of Texans for home products and their desire for a high-quality, mid-priced premium wine. Selling for $10, there are four Escondido Valley wines: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot.
NEW
RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
COL SOLARE, Red Table Wine, represents a partnership. Piero Antinori of Antinori Wines and Allen Shoup, president of Chateau Ste. Michelle, combined six centuries of Tuscan tradition with Columbia Valley grapes. Their two proven perspectives achieve something new. Agreeing that winemaking is collaborative by its nature--a dialogue between earth and imagination, terroir and technique--Antinori brought heritage, knowledge, and a passion for trying new things while Shoup and Chateau Ste. Michelle offered boundless inspiration and vineyards capable of producing big, boldly-structured red wines. "Piero has never let tradition or boundaries stand in the way of his quest for great wines," Shoup says. "He views the world as his vineyard." Piero says, "I was genuinely taken with the quality of Washington Wines. The Chateau Ste. Michelle vineyards make a 16-hour flight from Italy to to Washington worthwhile." Antinori's technical director, Renzo Cotarella, and Chateau Ste. Michelle Winemaker Mike Januik tasted wines together, working to define what kind of wine COL SALARE would be--and which rows in which vineyards could best deliver it. Their vision was a full, round wine bursting with flavor, great structure and character, styled for aging elegantly over time. Taste COL SALARE's rich black fruit and chocolate, ripe tannins with structure and strength, dense, aromatic and intense. It's an original expression of Columbia Valley, "A wine that thrills not just the palate, but the thirst of its curious creators for things new."
SYMMETRY names Rodney Strong Vineyards' first Meritage-style wine in its 40-year history. The message in this bottle, well worth waiting for, clearly expresses the triumvirate of balance, harmony and proportion--symbolized by its label, a simple triangle with name, vintage and appellation. Winemaker Rick Sayre says, "Our 1996 SYMMETRY ($50) is a result of a decade of improvements in grape quality from new vineyard acquisitions as well as re-planting older ones, upgrades in winery equipment at all levels, years of winemaking experience in Sonoma County and an appellation best known for Bordeaux varietals." SYMMETRY 1996 Alexander Valley Red Table Wine is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine is dense, supple and rich--and delicious.
WOLF BLASS Australian wines have some well-priced, delicious
offerings from down under. Wolf Blass, Australia's first freelance
winemaker, established his winery in South Australia's Barossa Valley
in 1967. His used new oak maturation, modern wine-making equipment and
winemaking techniques learned in Europe to produce wines with flavor and elegance.
Australian wine judges awarded his wines an enviable collection of trophies
and gold medals, including Australia's leading award for red wines (Jimmy Watson
Trophy) for three consecutive years (1974-76). Vineyards are in the major
viticultural regions of South Australia, enabling the winemaking team to blend
different regions to add complexity and ensure consistent quality.
Wolf Blass has won over 3000 medals and trophies at Australian and International
wine shows, including the Robert Mondavi Trophy as International Winemaker of
the Year in 1992. Wolf Blass red wines are characterized by three
factors — rich, ripe fruit flavor, well balanced oak, and soft tannin.
The white wines of Wolf Blass reflect quality, consistency and character, displaying
distinctive fruit flavors particular to the variety. WOLF BLASS 1998 Cabernet
Sauvignon Yellow Label $12; 1999 Chardonnay $12; 1997 Shiraz, and 1997 Shiraz-Cabernet
Sauvignon Red Label are delicicous and great values.
CHATEAU ST. JEAN, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Cinque cepage, as previously reported, still glows from its award as the WINE SPECTATOR "Wine of the Year." Winemaker Steve Reeder constantly says "Grow the right fruit in the right place." His wines reflect his philosophy. "Vineyard designation for varietal wines has been CHATEAU ST. JEAN'S philosophy since its inception in 1973," he says. "The 1997 Robert Young Vineyards Chardonnay ($24) marks its 26th release and the 1998 La Petite Etoile Fume Blanc ($14) is its 20th vintage. Such vineyards must prove unparalleled consistency every year with special fruit I can pick out each year--a signature flavor or aroma. The Chardonnay has lemon, ripe pear and creamy vanilla aromas with sweet flora, honeysuckle, apple and nutmeg flavors that persist to a long, smoky finish. The Fume has lively lemongrass, vanilla, dried herbs and a palate of rich citrus, exotic floral flavors with nectarine and melon with a long, creamy finish." I agree with Steve about his wines. These CHATEAU ST. JEANs are favorites at my table. Additionally, Steve says, "I have a favorite wine to drink and one to make, but my Sonoma County labeled wines really are my pride and joy. We have 21 acres of dynamite merlot, some of the best in Sonoma, and it serves as the backbone for the CHATEAU ST. JEAN 1997 Sonoma County Merlot $22--forward cherry flavors and fleshy, mouth-filling tannins. My 1998 Sonoma County Chardonnay $12 continues to surprise me. What a lot of people don't realize is that about 40% of the fruit is from Robert Young Vineyard. I feel fortunate that we put this level of quality into this wine."
MIRASSOU 1998 Chardonnay San Vicente Vineyard Monterey $24 and MIRASSOU 1998 Chardonnay Mission Vineyard $24 are classic examples of why Monterey is fast-becoming California's top Chardonnay-producing region. Rich aromas of apple, citrus and pineapple along with pear, mineral and vanillin-oak. It has a long finish and bright acidity. Pair with most fish and poultry, and cream sauced pastas. Mission Vineyards adds banana and butterscotch and some tropical fruits. Lovely wines. MIRASSOU has a couple of Pinot Noirs for your pleasure. MIRASSOU 1997 Limited Bottling Harvest Reserve Pinot Noir $18--"complex black cherry. plum, cedar, anise, clove, seamless, vanilla-oak charater, pair with beef, seafood and cheeses;" Family Selection 1997 Pinot Noir $12--"forward cherry with plum, spices, creamy texture, pair with chicken, salmon and lamb"
FLORA SPRINGS has two new wines for your pleasure: 1998 Estate Sauvignon Blanc$8 and 1998 Sangiovese $16. Julie Garvey says they're working with new plantings and interesting clones. This vintage for Sauvignon Blanc premiers the first crop from the Musque vines--"melons, figs, refreshing, bright and crisp." The '98 Sangiovese, Garvey says, is the best yet. The controlled crop levels give the fruit depth and character and yet preserve its unique bright red fruit--"strawberry, cranberry, blueberry."
CHATEAU Ste. MICHELLE 1998 Columbia Valley Pinot Gris$14, represents the vintage noted as the longest and warmest growing season in the valley, giving great fruit intensity and enhanced tropical notes for whites. The wine has bright green apple, pear and floral notes, crisp and clean. The 1998 Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc $10 expresses "the most coveted characteristics of the variety," says Erik Olsen, white wine maker, "tropical fruit aromas with an underlying hint of citrus zest, and flavors of melon, sweet oak and citrus fruits on the palate."
VILLA MT. EDEN has introduced its new Coastal product tier. "Repositioning was a matter of geography," says Marketing Director Alan MacDonald. "Coastal vineyards have long been the foundation of our California wines. Now, what has always been in the bottle will be on the label as well." Villa Mt. Eden Winemaker Mike McGrath believes the distinction is important. "California’s coastal growing regions share one feature that sets them apart – marine influence," explains McGrath. "The moderating effects of the Pacific create the extended growing seasons and attenuated temperature extremes that seem to be linked to optimal varietal expression, flavor and balance in vinifera grapes." Fruit for the Coastal wines will be sourced from Villa Mt. Eden’s own vineyards in the Napa Valley, Monterey, and Paso Robles, and growers’ vineyards in prime North and Central Coast appellations including Mendocino, Santa Maria, Santa Ynez and Sonoma. Established in 1881, Villa Mt. Eden is one of the Napa Valley’s oldest producers of premium wines. The winery is best known for its acclaimed Grand Reserve and Signature Series wines. The new Coastal tier replaces the brand’s popular line of California wines. VILLA MT. EDEN Coastals include the 1998 Monterey Chardonnay, 1998 Mendocino Sauvignon Blanc, and 1998 California Syrah--each $10. Other wines include:
DUAS QUINTAS 1996 (Touriga Francesa 40%/Tinta Roriz 40%/ Touriga Nacional 20%) $10.50 is a blend of the named grapes from two very special Ramos-Pinto vineyards in the Douro River Valley of Portugal. It's a lovely wine, with a splendid texture, intense fruit flavors of blackberry and ripe grape, smooth and well-balanced with soft acidity. A quality wine for the price.
LINDEMANS 1999 Bin 65 Chardonnay $8--"delicate melon, fig, citrus, nutty oak, soft and creamy, crisp acidity with lingering finish"
BERINGER Winemaker Ed Sbragia says its endlessly fascinating to him how different Cabernet Sauvignon tastes from vineyard to vineyard because of the diversity of soils, altitude and climate. "I know these vinveyards intimately and have a clear picture of which fruits I want for the Private Reserve. I want it to start with an impression of black currants, red berries and vanilla, open into mint, cedar and sweet brown spices like nutmeg--big and explosive but balanced." For the results, try his BERINGER 1995 Napa Valley Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $75. For the BERINGER 1998 Sauvignon Blanc Napa $12, Ed chose to barrel ferment a majority of the fruit in small oak barrells to soften the fruit somewhat. He cold-fermented the balance (20%) to highlight the citrus and hebal notes. Then he blended in some Semillon for rounder, plumper notes--"ripe melon and honeyed figs."
BEAULIEU VINEYARD has released the latest vintages of the Reserve Series. The 1997 vintage will be remembered for extremes and a very large, early harvest and excellent fruit. Rain stopped after heavy floods in January and the late winter was unusually dry and unseasonably warm--resulting in early March budbreak. A warm spring brought early flowering and a near perfect berry set, an ideal summer and crop levels above normal. Taste the results in the BEAULIEU 1997 Reserve Chardonnay, Carneros $25--opulent, forward tropical fruit, rich and lush; BEAULIEU 1997 Reserve Pinot Noir Carneros $30--ripe black cherry, black pepper, hint bacon, well-balanced and integrated. 1996 had a mild winter, abundant spring rainfall and early budbreak, reduced berry set from rain, a hot summer, a smaller crop, earlier ripening and extended growing season, long leisurely harvest for grapes to mature slowly to produce wines of great concentration and richness: BEAULIEU 1996 Tapestry $35 and the BEAULIEU 1996 Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $75--both exceptionally delicious wines. Also released, the BEAULIEU Appellation Series, "a melodius quartet representing the backbone of the production.
FERRARI-CARANO has released an array of vintages and wines. Since its first wines were released in 1987, the awards and accolades for F-C Chardonnay and Fume have rung out often and loud and clear. They continue to do so.
GLORIA FERRER CHAMPAGNE CAVES has gained a reputation for its estate grown still wines. I've admired Winemaker Bob Iantosca's Chardonnay and Pinot Noir since their creation in 1991. They're still favorites. The GLORIA FERRER 1997 Pinot Noir Carneros Estate $22 came from one of the largest and earliest harvests ever for Gloria Ferrer. "It had sporadic weather from early heat waves to summer rain to cool spells in the fall, yet unusual cooling at the end of the season provided exceptional and bountiful fruit." Bob thins Pinot Noir, leaving only the sweetest and most mature grape clusters on the vine after veraison. Then he cold macerates the must three days prior to inoculation. The wine has skin contact for 10 days and after pressing is aged 10 months in 60 gallon French oak barrels. Bob says the complexity is due to many factors: seven distinct pinot noir clones, diverse soils, and various barrels. The wine shows classic pinot noir nose and flavor highlights of cherry, berry, hints of smoke, bacon and earth. The finish is smooth and silky. Here's one you'll enjoy with many foods.
ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS has made great strides over the past few years and two wines reflect the progress. ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARD 1996 CYRUS ($45) is the second vintage of this limited production, handcrafted, proprietary red wine from the Wetzel Family Estate. It's a classic blend of Bordeaux varieties: 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. Only 1,500 six packs are available. ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 1998 Family Estate Chardonnay ($15) combines grapes from several choice blocks in the family estate, each fermented separately, and introduced to three yeast strains. It was 50% barrel fermented and 50% underwent malolactic fermentation before aging. Enjoy this lovely, beautifully integrated wine. Also, ALEXANDER VALLEY 1999 GEWURZTRAMINER $9 is lively and luscious--nice with turkey or ham if you're planning ahead for Easter. It has floral and citrus flavors with bright acidity.
BELVEDERE Winemaker Kevin Warren says his grapes are grown in his backyard. "We consider our ranches part of our extended backyard and treat them as such. Three distinct appellations grow our grapes: Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, and they're within a few miles of the winery. We plant cover crops between rows to attract pest-feeding insects, put up raptor boxes for rodent and bird control, and use fish emulsion fertilizers for sustainable, ecological agriculture as alternatives to chemical treatments." The winemaking style is non-intervention as much as possible and the prices offer value so wine can be part of the family meal: BELVEDERE 1997 Sonoma County Chardonnay $10; BELVEDERE 1997 Russian River Chardonnay $17 and the BELVEDERE 1997 Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $19. These well-made wines have a lovely balance with plenty of forward fruit for your daily enjoyment.
CLOS DU BOIS produces some stunning vineyard designated wines. In the late 1970s, it was recognized that certain Clos du Bois vineyard blocks produced wines with special attributes year after year. These wines were kept separate to demonstrate that in California, like Europe, the vineyard site can identify distinctiveness. 1997 FLINTWOOD $22, 1996 BRIARCREST $30, 1998 CALCAIRE $20 and 1996 MARLSTONE $30 are those distinctive wines. Grapes from mulitple blocks in Dry Creek Valley make FLINTWOOD. The well-drained, volcanic soils have vines that average 14 years. BRIARCREST is the smallest vineyard designate. The silty-loam soil has a hardpan just a few feet below the surface so the roots grow horizontially. The dense clay permits air penetration, and this, plus high density planting, holds back root growth to reduce vigor. It's dry farmed and head pruned to produce small clusters and berries--intense cabernet fruit. CALCAIRE grows on gravelly, well-drained sandy loam soils that were planted in 1965. The highly stressed vines have a rooting depth of over 10 feet and produce clusers with variously sized berries--called "pumpkins & peas" to produce lush, tropical flavors. MARLSTONE grows in silt loam, an alluvial soil laid down by the Russian River and its tributaries. The clay content increases with depth, retaining enough winter rain to dry-farm in most years. The five Bordeaux varietals are planted here. Varietals are evaluated after fermentation and lots are chosen and blended prior to aging. These wines are truly hand crafted for pure enjoyment. I always look forward to tasting the latest offerings. Superb!
KENDALL-JACKSON Winemaker Randy Ullom says K-J wines are selected from the finest vineyards in California. He won't admit directly to his preference for reds, but there's a distinct glow in his eyes when asked to describe the Syrah. "Ron Bunnell and I have been searching for the best vineyards, best styles and best techniques for some time and I think the KENDALL-JACKSON 1997 Vintner's Reserve Syrah ($17, 3,866 cases) is the result," he says. "It's robust and food friendly without being too fat; fruit-filled with blackberry, blueberry and cherry with spice and tosty oak notes."
VALLEY OF THE MOON, in the heart of Sonoma Valley, has two releases. The 1997 Sonoma County Sangiovese $25, a subtle yet complex blend of 97% Sangiovese and 3% Syrah, has medium body, black cherry flavors, good acid balance and structure--only 3,300 cases. The Sonoma County Pinot Blanc $20 is in the Alsatiain style, dry, fruity and good acidty, crisp, nicely structured with notes of citrus and melon. If you don't know these wines, you should.
ST. FRANCIS merlot grapes come from its three estate vineyards, each with various soils. St. Francis' reputation for excellent Merlot is renowned.
GEYSER PEAK Winemaker Mick Schroeter won the Robert Mondavi Award for "Winemaker of the Year"--second year in a row, 1999. GEYSER PEAK celebrates the second year of its relationship with the McWilliams in Australia and their array of hand-crafted, award-winning BARWANG wines.
GUENOC Winegrower Karen-Melander-Magoon has two favorite white wines for late summer special evenings or anytime. "Guenoc Chardonnay is perfect for salads, especially goat cheese souffle on fresh greens with pear slices and pine nuts. But perhaps my favorite white wine is Langtry Meritage White."
KENWOOD Vineyards has harvested its Jack London Merlot exclusively from the Jack London Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain since 1976. Try the 1997 KENWOOD Jack London Merlot $30 to enjoy its elegant dark cherry flavors, well-structured tannins and pronounced character.
THOMAS FOGARTY Winemaker Michael Martella and Dr. Thomas Fogarty have released three outstanding wines from the much-celebrated 1997 vintage: THOMAS FOGARTY Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mtns.; Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mtns. and Gewurztraminer. The first two were grown in the well-drained, sandy-loam soil of the Fogarty mountain vineyards while the Gewurz was sourced from the foothills of Salinas Valley.
J. LOHR
I've always liked the J. Lohr products and tasted some new to me with an excellent piece of salmon at the Four Seasons Cafe. Actually, in the last 1960s, Jerry Lohr began an entensive investigation of grape growing regions throughout California. His farming background gave him a good perspective and the soil quality, climate and location led him to California's Central Coast. He planted 280 acres in Monterey County, Greenfield Vineyards (1972-73) and built his San Jose winery in 1974. He added 800 acres of grapes (predominantly red) near Paso Robles in 1988 with an adjacent winery and barrel facility and expanded the Greenfield vineyards (predominantly white) to 500 acres. The wine style is to focus on flavor and complexity through vineyard selection in order to produce world competitive wines. They are, I might add, lovely food wines as well as enjoyable just by themselves. J. Lohr produces "Single Vineyard Series," the "J. Lohr Estates," and Cypress (please see top for "Top Picks"). The Vineyard Series brand reflects the commitment to make world class wines with Jerry Lohr's signature on every bottle--carefully handcrafted from grapes grown in specific vineyards, and fermented in 100% new French Oak barrels. The Cypress brand shows the commitment to make exceptional quality wines at very affordable prices--$7 to $9. Wines carrying this brand are carefully handcrafted by blending wines from our estate vineyards and selected coastal vineyards.
- J. Lohr Estates "Riverstone" 1997 Chardonnay $12--" pear, tangerine and subtle lime aromas with a bouquet of butterscotch, toasty oak and butter. Ripe fruit and malolactic give a rich texture with honey, apple/pear and butter flavors balanced with toasted oak creating generous full flavors"
- J. Lohr Estate "Seven Oaks" Cab $17--"aromas of cherry, blueberry, hint of orange rind. Bouquet is complex tar, tobacco, cedar and chocolate oak, showing ripe and velvety soft tannins supported by good acidity, serve with grilled or roasted red meats and red-sauced pasta dishes"
- J. Lohr 1997 Chardonnay Arroyo Seco, Arroyo Vista $22--"Rich, balanced and lovely, complexity of pears, apricot, lime, butter, vanilla, creamy"
- J Lohr 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Hilltop, Paso Robles $28--"enticing blueberry, currants, bing cherry and black olive, concentrated, vanilla roasted oak, tabac, fullness, sweet integrated tannins with finesse"
J WINE COMPANY
J's mission, I am told, is to create world-class wines that reflect the rich terroir of Sonoma County's Russian River Valley and to craft wines that enhance special moments. In my opinion, that's all of them, and I think J's wines meet the challenge. J Wine Company was funded in 1986--a sparkling wine only concern that brought dimensions of elegance to American-produced sparkling wines. Judy Jordan, CEO and proprietor, leads the J team with what she calls a free-spirited, horizontal management style that emphasizes quality and creativity. The company continues to grow wtih the introduction of still wines--including Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. As a matter of fact, I actually tasted the first release of J Pinot Noir in 1998 about 30 hours before Judy's son was born. I couldn't believe that she actually kept our dinner appointment at such a strategic time. But that's Judy--considerate, dedicated and a consumate business woman. All of J's wines reflect her elegance. I recently tasted those listed below. YUM!
- J 1998 Pinot Gris $16--"exotic, spicy, refreshing, floral notes, vibrant fruit, applesauce, cinnamon, honeysuckle, tangerine, vanilla"
- J 1998 J Pinot Noir Nicole's Vineayrd $20--"cherry aromas, rose petals, subtle smoky oak, tea, black pepper, fennel, pair with fowl, veal and pork"
- J Sparkling Wine $28--"layers of fruit, toastiness, dusting of yeasty scents, lush and elegant, clean and crisp"
GALLO OF SONOMA
Gallo of Sonoma's Carmen Castorina kindly whizzed down to bring me the latest releases from Gallo of Sonoma. I always look forward to his visits because these wines are deliciously reliable. I expected the rich, layers of flavor in the 1997 Laguna Ranch Vineyard Russian River Chardonnay ($22) and was not disappointed. It paired well with the deliciously reliable fish dish at the Four Season's Cafe, as did the 1998 "Gallo Family" (newly added to label) Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($12). I was surprised, however, that the 1996 Frei Ranch Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $26 went so well with the salmon. The grapes for this wine were destemmed and a substantial percentage of whole berries were retained for fermentation. This process allows retention of varietal essence and minimizes bitter tannins--which expains why the wine pairs so well with meat, fowl or fish. It proved that well-made wines and the freshest ingredients can be paired with impunity. These wines consistently bring pleasure for a modicum of money. How do they do it? Very well.
BANFI WINES
I visited the Banfi Estate while I was in Italy last November to judge the Banco d'Assagio Wine Competition. It's a remarkable and beautiful place that grows delicious wines. Banfi Director of Fine Wines Steve Simmons brought a lovely array of Banfi wines to share at my table with my regular tasters. One of his colleague's, Lars Leicht, has quotable remarks: "I honestly believe that September 12, 1984—the dedication of the Castello Banfi winery—ushered in a new age for the wines of Tuscany in particular and Italy in general. The first vines were planted in 1978, and the project represented an American investment under Italian management aimed at dramatically improving the range and quality of the region’s wines, bringing Tuscany to what the Mariani family and Ezio Rivella perceived as its true potential. The estate has since been recognized for the past five years as Italy’s winery of the year at the annual VinItaly competition, and last year the Association of Italian Sommeliers awarded Castello Banfi it’s ‘Wine Oscar’ as ‘Best Wine Estate.’" I don't know what I can add to that except that Steve was a delightful and well-spoken representative whom we thoroughly enjoyed. We also appreciated the many delicious Banfi wines: 1999 Pinot Grigio; 1998 Principessa Gavia, Gavi; 1996 Fontanelle Chardonnay; 1995 Argusto Dolcetto d’Acqui; 1993 Belnero Pinot Noir; 1997 Centine Red Table IGT; 1996 Rosso di Montalcino; 1994 Brunello; 1990 Mandrielle Merlot; 1995 Tavernelle Cabernet Sauvignon; 1993 Colvechio Syrah; 1994 Moscadello di Montalcino; 1998 Brachetto d’Acqui La Rosa.
ARTESIA
Dan Gustafson and I enjoyed the new wines from Artesia (inaugural releases Sept. '99)--newest winery in Napa Carneros, result of total conversion of Codornui Napa to ultra-premium still wine and prestige sparkling wines. We enjoyed the still wines from the previously, exclusively sparkling winery of Codornui. "We're still making sparkling wines, but on a limited basis and they won't be ready until 2002. In the meantime, we have three Pinot Noirs, two Chardonnays and a Sauvignon Blanc that much resembles aChardonnay-style wine." Chef Peter O'Brien was at his superlative best with a Shrimp Risotto, Grilled Frisee with Pineapple and Blue Cheese, a Roasted Quail in Mango-Cherry Chutney with demi-glace and the marvelous fresh breads. My favorite Pinot Noir with this superb meal was the fruit forward, softly structured 1997 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley $22, and for white wines, the lovely, elegantly unctuous 1997 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley $20, and the crisp, fresh, understated oak, smooth and fruit-filled 1997 Chardonnay Carneros. Winemaker Don Van Staaveren, previously at Chateau St. Jean, remarkably had five of his St. Jean wines listed among the "Top 100 Wines of 1996." Now his remarkable style is focused at Artesia.
CHATEAU SOUVERAIN
Winemaker Ed Killian loves the fruit from Alexander Valley. I'm glad. His wines are well-crafted and affordable. "I've made wine in Sonoma Country since 1981," Ed says, "so I came to Chateau Souverain with a pretty good foundation. The most important part of winemaking is learning the characteristics and tendencies of the vineyards. Our maturing home vineyards in northern Alexander Valley have been key to making better wines. Our mission is to continue to make each wine even better than the last." Chef Peter O'Brien did his usual special touches to his creations: Smoked Diver Sea Scallops with Beets and Cucumbers with Hazelnut Vinaigrette--lovely with Ed's fresh and crisp 1999 Sauvignon Blanc ($12) as well as the rich and nicely structured 1998 Chardonnay $14 which I especially liked with the Yellow Fin Tuna with Lobster in Tomato Fennel Broth. It was difficult to choose among Ed's reds for the Rack of Lamb with Red Wine Laurel Sauce with Mango Chutney. Try the three 1997 vintages of Merlot ($17), Zinfandel ($13)and the Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) with a lamb dish and see which you pefer. The 1996 Winemaker's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $35 deserves its special designation. It's smooth, silky, concentrated and with enough layers of flavors to drink all by itself.
LOLONIS WINES
Phillip Lolonis says his family of winegrowers is big on bugs--ladybugs, that is, because they help promote the LOLONIS cause of organic farming. "We've been growing grapes for 80 years--longer than most in California, he says." I visited those extensive vineyards in 1998 when several Lolonis men--Petrous, Ulysses and Phillip--escorted me around their properties and told me their history. It seems 16-year-old Tryfon Lolonis arrived in California in 1914. He surveyed Mendocino's Redwood Valley, noticed its similarity to his native Greece, bought the land, cleared it by hand and built a house for his bride-to-be--then 12-year-old Eugenia Kalogeropoulos. She arrived six year later in San Francisco. They married and raised ten children. As the family grew, so did their vineyards. Lolonis sold grapes in the '40s and '50s to Charles Krug, Geyser Peak, Parducci, Sebastiani and others. Today they sell grapes to Beringer, Kendall-Jackson, Edmeades, Hess Collection, and since 1982, use them for their own wines. Jed Steele is the consulting enologist and also uses their grapes for his wines. Lolonis 1999 Fume Blanc, Redwood Vallaey $12--from 40-year-old vines, well-balanced, refreshing, tasty silky-crisp citrus flavors and clean, excellent sipping; Lolonis 1998 Chardonnay Redwood Valley $16--silver medal New World International Wine Competition, well-made fruit forward with spicy oak nuances; Lolonis 1997 Zinfandel Redwood Valley $18--from 55-year-old vines, peppery spice, blackberry and cherry fruitiness, fleshy and rich; Lolonis 1997 Orpheus (petite sirah) Private Reserve $28--really delicious wine, velvety, rich mature fruit, ripe and luscious, and there are more to discover, both Private Reserve wines and Redwood Valley regulars. I admire their dedication to quality grape growing which shows vividly in the quality of their wines.
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