top
The
Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 32nd Edition
January 24, 2000
NEW!
Click here for a
PRINTABLE VERSION of this newsletter
TOP
PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
Ports
(Please see additional notes at end of newsletter)
Sparkling Wines
Chardonnay, Best Buys, $11 and under:
A very special Valentine's Day wine: Inniskillin Icewine
Icewine is one of natures’s gifts to wine lovers. It is ideally suited to the climatic conditions of Canada’s Nigara Peninsula. Inniskillin Icewine gained international recognition and acclaim in 1991 when it was awarded the Grand Prix d‘Honneur at Vinexpo in Bordeaux. The grapes, having already reached full ripeness in October, are left on the vines under protective netting until the first deep freeze of winter. During this time the grapes are naturally dehydrated by the elements, adding to the concentration of flavors, aromas, sugars and acids in the juice. Temperatures dipping below –10 degrees C. in December and January freeze the grapes solid, initiating the arduous task of hand harvesting and pressing. The highly concentrated juice produces extremely low yields (5 to 10 % of normal yield) because most of the water content in the juice is left behind in the press in the form of ice crystals. Icewine is characterized by intense natural sweetness, a highly aromatic bouquet and a depth of flavors that is without equal among dessert wines. Oak aging adds another dimension of complexity and richness. Inniskillin has become known worldwide as the premium producer of Icewine, with a reputation for quality, style and consistency. Inniskillin Icewine 1998 Riesling $65 (375 ml) and Inniskillin Icewine 1997 Oak Aged $80 (375ml) are rare and special wines to share with a loved one.
CAP*ROCK won top awards for the second year in a row at the Lone Star State Wine Competition, winning the triple crown of Gold, Best of Class and Grand Star of Texas for the best red wine--it's 1997 CAP*ROCK Merlot. Other 1999 awards include 1997 Chardonnay, silver at International Wine & Spirit Competition in England; 1998 Toscana Rosa, gold at Indiana State Fair; 1998 Orange Muscat, bronze at San Francisco International; 1997 Merlot, and the 1997 Cabernet Royal, Award of Excellence, American Tasting Institute, and a bronze at InterVin International; and the 1997 Topaz Royale, gold at the New World International. Well-done, CAP*ROCK. Here's to a great 2000.
WINE writer/educator Ronn Wiegand and his wife Brenda had a terrible automobile accident and face severe problems. Ronn needs weeks of hospitalized rehabilitation. Brenda's serious condition requires major operations. Wine industry people have come together to help them with a special fundraiser: The Ronn Wiegand Family Dinner and Wine Auction, at Culinary Institute of America's (CIA) Greystone in Napa Valley, Friday, Feb. 4, 2000. Underwritten by The Wine Spectator, twenty-five major lots of wine will be auctioned off. Dinner/auction tickets are $250 per person. "Wine industry persons have responded with tremendously generosity," says auction coordinator Paul Wagner. "There are spectacular lots of special wines, an all-expenses-paid trip to New Zealand, and many other great events. The CIA is creating a wonderful dinner--matched with wines that have been donated by wineries across the country for a remarkable evening." Also, Winebid.com is hosting an on-line auction of collectible wines and special events donated by friends of Ronn Wiegand. On-line posting begins January 20, 2000 and bidding will close on February 6. "There are some real rarities, and some very generous donations in this auction as well," says Wagner. "Winebid.com has volunteered to be a clearing house for information about these events." Benefit dinner checks are payable to Wiegand Family Fund, 1200 Jefferson St, Napa, CA 94559. Other contributions may be made directly to the Wiegand Family Fund, Bank of the West, 3300 Jefferson Street, Napa, CA 94558, account # 094268174, phone number 707-255-3310. Information: Balzac, 800/709-7667
HARVEST REPORTS consistently record that 1999 is the latest one on record in much of California and difficult but delicious in other wine-country regions. Example, CANOE RIDGE in Washington battled the third coolest growing season on record while in New Zealand, KIM CRAWFORD Wines had good overall quality for all grape varieties. HUSCH's newsletter said its last grapes were picked (Mendocino) on November 2 and one advantage of the extended harvest was that it allowed each variety to be picked at its peak. Looks like '99 will make delicious drinking.
CLOS DU BOIS celebrated 25 years of history in Sonoma County and announced that the best-selling producer of Sonoma County wines hit an industry milestone by shipping one million cases within a fiscal year. CLOS DU BOIS Winemaker Margaret Davenport will be the featured guest at Sarah Jane's April Tasting Group and will participate in the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Feaatival, also in April (please see calendar).
CHAMPAGNE A. SOUTIRAN is imported by Michel-Schlumberger Wines LTD--which also produces many fine bottles under its own Michel-Schlumberger label--and brings exceptional wines from other producers for your drinking pleasure too. This is one of them. Among Champagne's Appellations d'OrigineControlee (AOC), seven of the largest merchant Houses account for 70% of the Champagne bottled. Yet, there are nearly 20,000 growers. Of those, 2,700 are "grower-makers," or recoltants-manipulants. In addition, the merchant Houses control over 90% of the export trade so the recoltants-manipulants are virtually unknown outside of France. Alain Soutiran is a fifth-generation champenois who tends 37 acres and is an artisan recoltant who makes four, 100% grand cru (means "growth"--place were vines grow) wines from his hand-harvested vineyards. His reserve wine for the non-vintage bottles is aged in oak. The bottles themselves are aged two to ten years on their yeasts. Crus, location of vineyards, distinguish Champagnes and are given ratings. There are 17 grand cru and 38 premier cru villages. The best crus begin south of Reims along the slope of the Montagne de Reims and follow the slope around to Epernay, jump the Marne River Valley and continiue down the Cotes des Blancs. Three zones within the Marne department form the core of the top crus: the Cotes des Blancs, the Vallee de la Marne and the Montagne de Reims. The village of Ambonnay and Soutiran's 750 acres sit at the base of Reims mountain with some of the finest exposure in all of Champagne. "No where else in Champagne can pinot noir attain the same perfection as on the exceptional hills of Ambonnay," wrote Michel Bettane, a noted French critic. There are four wines produced: Champagne A. Soutiran Brut Grand Cru $40, A. Soutiran Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs $45, A. SoutiranBrut Grand Cru Rose $45 and the A. Soutiran Grand Cru Millesime Brut $60. These are lovely wines. Enjoy them on Valentine's Day with someone special--or any day you want to feel special.
PAULA KORNELL, with her lifetime connection in the wine industsry, is the new general managaer of CARMENET Winery.
BISTRO ROXY at the ELDORADO HOTEL/CASINO in Reno was one of 64 restaurants in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico to receive the coveted DiRoNa Award for Excellence in fine dining.
ESTANCIA was named "Top Estate Winery of the Year" by Wine & Spirits in its annual Buying Guide 2000. The 1997 Estancia Pinnacles Chardonnay was chosen White Wine of the Year in Food & Wine's October issue.
LOUIS M. MARTINI was named "Winery of the Year" by nationally-syndicated wine columnist Jerry Mead.
NEW
RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
SHAFER VINEYARDS suggests that you may have worried about the falling price of your new IPO stock or the Y2K bug or a crashing Palm Pilot, but there are no worries, when you drink SHAFER 1997 Merlot $35, so be happy. Blended with aromatic Caberne Franc and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for depth, SHAFER's 1997 stress-relieving Merlot is the delicious product of an outstanding vintage--an incredible year for Carneros Merlot.
SHAFER 1995 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon $110 is a special bottle from a superb vintage to share with your Valentine. It is produced from the best hillside vineyard blocks and displays all the luxuriant fruit, velvety texture and civilized tannins of its Stags Leap District heritage.
CLOS DU VAL, founded in 1972, has establishsed its label among the world's finest. The CLOS DU VAL 1995 Reserve Cabernet, $65, illustrates just why. This elegant wine is rich with concentrated , dark berry fruit, has excellent structure and balance together with classical fruit flavors integrated with French oak.
CLOS DU BOIS produces tiers of wine: the Classics, Appellation Reserves, Vineyard Designates and the Winemakaer Reserves. The new release Classics and Alexander Valley Reserves include:
MARIMAR TORRES produces one of my favorite Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. You ought to become familiar with these wines if you are not. They set a standard and the quality identification in these wines is a good benchmark for assessing the different costs among finely made wines.
CAMBRIA has released three 1997 wines: Julia's Vineyard Pinot Noir $24, Estate Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir $42, and Tepusquet Vineyard Syrah $22. Key points on the 1997 vintage are: early budbreak, ideal spring and summer growing conditions, uneventful harvest, and cooler August temperatures slowed development and extended growing period. Additionally, viticultural improvements resulted in higher quality Pinot Noir and Syrah: 30% reduced irrigation restricted vine canopy, fruitful bud reduction produced lower yields, and extensive thinning reduced yields. "We feel that the 1997 harvest was the finest vintage thus far from the Cambria Estate."
CHALK HILL 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon is full bodied with classic red berry, tobacco and chocolate notes. Blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the well-balanced complexity eliminated the need for fining and was bottled without filtration. CHALK HILL 1997 Chardonnay illustrates Burgundian methods, whole cluster pressing, barrel fermentation with natural yeasts, weekly stirring, natural malolactic fermentation and sur-lies ageing. Many lots were included in the final blend. CHALK HILL 1997 Sauvignon Blanc has been a trend setter with its unique style: barrel fermentation, complete malolactic, sur lies in French oak-- producing a richly textured wine.
KENWOOD has released two 1997 Zinfandels, the Jack London $20 and the Sonoma Valley $15. Jack London Zin is influenced by volcanic soils with distinctive characteristics of vibrant berry and cherry, cedar and spice. The Sonoma Valley Zin blends grapes from ten vineyards, mostly mountain ranges, each fermented separately and aged in American and French oak for 14 months. It's medium bodied with intense berry and peppery notes.
GALLO OF SONOMA continues to offer its delicious wines at delicious prices. These well-crafted wines are worthy of any table.
RODNEY STRONG 1996 Alexander's Crown Cabernet Sauvignon $25, only 7,500 cases, is in Rodney Strong's Estate Line and reflects the winery's commitment to have viticulture control of the best Sonoma County vineyards available. The wine is the grand old man of Alexander Valley, the first vineyard-designated red wine in Sonoma County. It is still as grand and full of life as when it made its first appearance in restaurants 25 years a go.
JADE MOUNTAIN Ranch was bought and restored by Jim Paras in 1998. JADE MOUNTAIN produces Mourvedre, Syrah, Viognier, Merlot, Nebbiolo, and Rhone blends. Paras and Winemaker Doug Daniellak believe the premium grape growing areas of northern Califiornia have more in common with the Rhone Valley in France and wanted to demonstrate their belief in these varietals. After a long journey, JADE MOUNTAIN has achieved its goal of acquiring the finest grape sources for its premium wines: Paras Vineyard, Mount Veeder; Evangelho Vineyard, Contra Costa County; Caldwell Vineyard, Napa; Hudson Vineyard, Carneros.
KIM CRAWFORD wines hail from Marlborouogh, New Zealand. On the northern tip of N.Z.'s South Island, it's generally cooler and drier than areas on the North Island. Marlborough has very consistent weather patterns and in ten years there has not been any dramatic rainfall to affect a vintage. 1999 was near ideal.
PENFOLDS reports that the 1996 vintage was one of the most outstanding from PENFOLDS in several years. The season was ideal. Fruit set slowly and became fully mature. It ripened to perfection. Look for its intense flavors in:
LAKE SONOMA Winery in Dry Creek Valley produces intense, rich Zinfandels. It gives credit to the tremendous temperature range between warm days and cool nights. Beginning with a harvest that was a rare combination of excellent quality and high yields for all varieties, LAKE SONOMA has released three 1997 Zinfandels that exhibit rich color and plentiful flavors:
France's Beaujolais region offers several wines of distinction from some of its ten Crus .
EDNA VALLEY VINEYARDS 1998 Chardonnay $18.50--with a reputation for one of longest and coolest growing seasons, even the Edna Valley standards in '98 were unusually long. Well worth the wait, fruit developed full, complex flavors. It's full-bodied with tropical fruits--lime, pineapple, and a touch of oak"
PRESTON has a triplet of estate-grown Rhone-style wines to sample. "Our family of Rhônes are blends of our interpretation of classic southern Rhônes:
DELAS FRERES 1998 Cotes-du-Ventoux $7.50 is a blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah, Mourvedre and Carignan--"soft, alluring, fresh, ripe plum"
BOUCHAINE 1997 Chardonnay $19 focuses on Carneros fruit with subdued use of malolactic and new oak--"tropical fruit with notes of baked apple," serve with fish with a butter sauce or chicken. For those who prefer something else, try BOUCHAINE 1998 Gewurztraminer $13 from a new source in Mendnocino's Potter Valley--"touch of floral and melon character, try with Asian dishes."
CHAMPAGNES
& SPARKLERS:
CELEBRATING THE MILLENNIUM CONTINUUM
Billions of miniscule bubbles tingled palates at midnight to celebrate the third millennium. It was a rare moment of accord shared by multitudes during the last 1000 years. How nice that a lovely wine sparkled the occasion.
Champagnes and other sparkling wines have been acclaimed as the official celebratory wine for centuries. The position is without challenge as there are truly no contenders. But why limit yourself--the celebration of life should continue daily. While you many not want a bottle of bubbly everyday--you just might, so there’s a good selection. Méthode champenoise (these words on the label mean the best quality) sparkling wines from California and elsewhere and, of course, the irresistible champagnes from Champagne, France (the only region entitled to use champagne on its labels) give plenty of choices. Like many things, wines have their top-of-the-line products. For champagnes and sparkling wines, the category is called prestige cuvée, tête de cuvée or grande marque.
Additionally, sparkling wines made in other areas of France, like the Loire, cannot call the wine champagne and must use the term traditional method instead of méthode champenoise. Nonetheless, firms like Gratien & Meyer of Saumur, Loire, make top-quality sparkling wines that are delicious. Try the Gratien & Meyer Fleur de Lys Brut and the Cuvee Renaissance Brut. This family has not neglected champagne either. Champagne Alfred Gratien includes Alfred Gratien Brut, the Cuvee Paradis Brut and the Vintage Brut. A lovely array to brighten the millennium festivities.
Among champagne houses, there were exclusive events earlier in the year, including Clicquot’s dinner at France’s Château de Versailles for bons vivants from over 100 countries. If you missed that event, plan your own. Best known by its full name, Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, it is one of the oldest and most respected Champagne Houses. The wines have remained high quality since it began with only 5,000 bottles in the 1770s—now selling ten million bottles.
The remarkable Madame Clicquot was the first woman to rise to power in Champagne. In an age when commerce was considered socially improper for women, the young widow assumed control of her husband’s family’s Cha mpagne House and guided it to a position of worldwide renown. Because of her constant work and innovations, the House is one of the most successful of all the great Champagne Houses. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Le Grand Dame is a lovely wine to herald any occasion.
The Champagne Roederer Cristal celebration was held in the Roederer cellars for the dated, specially designed Methuselahs--2000 of the numbered and embossed bottles were reserved in numerical order for their collectors. The Methuselahs sold out the year they were offered; however, some have been available at auctions for those wanting to acquire one. The limited production of 2000 will never be duplicated as the mold was broken for the bottle. Roederer began planning for the Millennium in 1990 by saving this vintage wine in the large bottles—equivalent of eight 750 ml bottles. While "Roederer Cuvée 2000" may not grace your table, other fine Champagne Roederer can still enhance it: the Roederer Brut Premier, Brut Rosé and regular bottle of Cristal.
Perrier-Jouët created an enticing millennium package with the unique opportunity of being a guest at Maison Belle Epoque in Epernay. This charming house has been restored beautifully and precisely to the period of its production. The United States received half the special package allocations, 1,000 of them, costing $2000 each. The millennium packages contain a hand-numbered Jeroboam (three liters) of Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Réserve Belle Époque 1995 covered with platinum and gold anemones in a beech-wood box and a one night stay with dinner for two at Champagne Perrier-Jouët's 18th century guesthouse, Maison Belle Epoque, for the year 2000 or 2001. It may not be too late to participate.
Mumm Cordon Rouge was the official Champagne of Greenwich Meridian 2000. Located at the Old Royal Observatory in Greenwich, U.K., it's the home of the Prime Meridian, whereGreenwich Mean Time (GMT) is set. Since time is measured from this point, Greemwich launched the new millennium officially and made Mumm Cordon Rouge a proper choice for the celebration. Mumm, a top-selling Champagne in America, is right for many celebrations.
Sometimes people say they don’t like champagne when in reality they just don’t care for that particular style. Champagne houses have specific measurements for dry-to-sweet designations that are accepted internationally. They are determined by the "dosage" or "liqueur d’expédition"(a syrup of sugar dissolved in wine). It’s added to each bottle at the end of the winemaking process and determines the degree of perceptible sweetness. Author Tom Stevenson in his excellent new book, Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine, shows the "Sweetness Chart."
| French Term | Residual Sugar | Literal Translation | Realistic Description |
| Extra Brut | 0-6 grams per liter | Extra Raw (driest) | Usually very dry, but not austere |
| Brut | 0-15 (g/l) | Raw or Bone Dry | Varies between dry and very dry |
| Extra-Sec | 12-20 (g/l) | Extra Dry | Off-dry to medium-dry |
| Sec | 17-35 (g/l) | Dry | Medium-Dry |
| Demi-Sec | 35-50 (g/l) | Medium Dry | Sweet |
In America, the longest reigning monarch among California méthode champenoise sparkling wines is Korbel. Established in 1882, the bubbly has been served longer and more abundantly than any other American sparkling wine. As the first global sponsor for New York’s millennium celebration, Korbel was the exclusive sparkling wine for the "Times Square 2000" New Year Eve’s celebration. When the Big Apple’s crystal ball descended, celebrants toasted their futures with Korbel. You may continue to do so throughout 2000. Like most sparkling wines, Korbel varies in style and taste, ranging from very dry to perceptible sweetness. Korbel Vintage Blanc de Noirs is very dry and made from 100% pinot noir grapes. Korbel Natural is dry, a balance of chardonnay and pinot noir, and pairs well with fish, chicken or pork dishes. Korbel Brut is medium dry, crisp and light and goes well with almost any food.
Several Champagne houses, beginning with Moët et Chandon’s Domaine Chandon in 1974, have established wineries in California. Domaine Chandon Winemaker Dawnine Dyer has watched the evolution and her latest wines show the progress. The Carneros Blanc de Noirs and the étoile are lovely examples of Dawnine’s winemaking skills. Chandon’s prestige cuvée, étoile, blends several vintages to achieve and highlight the best from the vineyards--delicate and rich with lean crispness. The bottle is hand-decorated in 22 karat gold, silk screened letters, brushed right on the bottle. Stunning! The étoile has limited production, but Domaine Chandon has released other wines for the holidays, the Blanc de Noirs and the Brut.
Pacesetter Moët started a trend that encouraged other French houses. More recently in 1987, Champagne Taittinger founded Domaine Carneros. Uniquely, Domaine Carneros is the only winery to produce méthode champenoise sparkling wines exclusively from Carneros viticultural area grapes-- generally 6-8º Celsius cooler than other parts of the counties. Carneros produces outstanding chardonnay and pinot noir, the principal grapes used in making champagne and sparkling wines. Managing Director/Winemaker Eileen Crane said Domaine Carneros produces two types of sparkling wine--Brut Vintage and the prestige cuvée, Le Rêve. The Brut is made in the classic style of 60 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent Chardonnay and exemplifies Carneros: honey, apples, pears, citrus, exotic spice, a creamy texture. Le Rêve is a Blanc de Blancs, 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Blanc, an exceptionally full-bodied and rich wine offering aromas of orange blossoms, citrus, peaches and white flowers. "My wines exemplify complexity, depth and elegance," Crane says. "Our philosophy is to use only the finest grapes and to preserve and enhance their flavors."
Iron Horse Vineyards’ Forrest Tancer makes lovely and extraordinary sparkling wine. The winemaker and co-partner with Audrey and Barry Sterling knows his vineyards and his grapes intimately and crafts his wines accordingly. Drinking them is an elevating experience. Awards have been extravagant: the Iron Horse 1993 Russian Cuvée received "91" points and was named in the Wine Spectator Best-of-the-Year issue; the Iron Horse 1991 Blanc de Blancs received "90" points and was named in Wine Enthusiast Best-of-the-Year issue. There are several to choose among: Brut Rose, Classic Vintage Brut, Russian Cuvée, Vrais Amis—all delicious and pleasing, but I’m a little partial to the Blanc de Blancs.
Another admired winemaker is Michel Saluges of Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California--the American property of Champagne Louis Roederer. What a uniquely talented winemaker this man is! Qualifying as a prized gift is his sparkling L’Ermitage. This regal bottle, embossed with its heraldic RE for Roederer Estate, exhibits the years that went into the wine’s making and reflects the historical association between the parent firm and Russia and the founder’s love of art. The mouthfilling bubbles enhance its refined flavors. Roederer Estate also produces an excellent Anderson Valley Brut, definitely a wine to buy by the case.
The Ferrer family's Spanish firm of Freixenet is the world’s largest producer of méthode champenoise. It created something special for the millenium—a limited bottling, Cordon Negro Estate Brut, in a black bottle with a brass crest, in a black pouch with a "Cuvée 2000" medallion. Whether or not it's still available, the rare estate-crafted wine, set a new standard for Winemaker Joseph Buján as he fashioned the culmination of three generations of family winemaking heritage. The wine has fine, persistent bubbles, an excellent mousse, aromas of green apples and citrus, a silky finish and bodes well for this millennium's celebrations.
Mumm Cuvee Napa, the California property of Champagne G.H. Mumm, produces several sparkling wines, including its own celebratory bottle--Mumm Cuvée Napa 21st Century Cuvée. The sparkling, méthode champenoise wine is creamy and elegant with a supple structure. It is widely available. Look for the Mumm Cuvee Napa Prestige and the Blanc de Noirs or Brut bottles.
Pacific Echo is a terrific sparkling wine from Mendocino's Anderson Valley. Winemakaer Tex Sawyer says "We want fruit expression to the greatest extent possible. It requires a lot of decision making--when to pick for optimal balance, which lots to blend and in what proportions, how long to age, and so forth." Tex has made a lot of right decisions. You'll enjoy all Pacific Echo wines: Brut, Brut Rose, Blanc de Blancs and Vintage Reserves.
Milla Handley is another excellent Anderson Valley winemaker. Her elegant sparkling wines make daily coifing a must. Her well-made w ines go with any kind of food. There are two delicious Handley sparklers: Brut, Brut Rose and Blanc de Blancs. Enjoy these lovely wines.
I like sparkling wines with all types of food. It truly accompanies almost everything. As for a proper temperature, you can pull a bottle right out of the refrigerator and enjoy it, although some people like it slightly warmer—48-50 degrees. Flutes make perfect glasses for all sparkling wines, allowing a constant stream or bead of tiny bubbles to tickle your palate and your fancy. While it will age well under the proper conditions, why bother when it drinks so beautifully upon release.
Sparkling wine is the Renaissance wine for all seasons. May you celebrate life each day--often with sparkling wines.
PORTO is a fortified wine made from upper Douro River Valley grapes. Duoro Valley soil and climate are ideal for cultivating port. Adding a small amount of neutral grape-spirit brandy to fermenting grapes stops fermentation and results in a rich, naturally sweet wine of about 20% alcohol. Forty-eight grape varieties are authorized for port: Five are classic: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cão and Tinta Barrocca.
Recently tasted and enjoyed ports include: RAMOS PINTO, MARTINEZ, COCKBURN'S, DOW'S, NOVAL, W & J GRAHAM'S, SANDEMAN.
NEW!
Click here for a
PRINTABLE VERSION of this newsletter
| © 2000 Sarah Jane English |
| Sarah Jane: sarahjane@sarahjanewineandfood.com |