The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 31th Edition
December 14, 1999

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)

Sparkling Wines

Champagne:

Pinot Noir :


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NEWS

TEXAS WINE AND GRAPE GROWERS ASSOCIATION (TWGGA) held its 21st Annual Harvest Festival in Austin at Doubletree Hotel.  It was a good opportunity to get acquainted with the latest vintages from twenty wineries and taste the achievements that have occurred over the last several years.  There wasn't enough time to taste all the wines, but the ones I did were worthy of praise.

    Be sure to mark your calendar now for next year's TWGGA tasting scheduled in mid-October.

RIOJA, The Toast of Spain held its 1999 Festival in Austin at the OMNI Hotel.  Chefs from several restaurants--Jeffrey's, Brio Vista, Mirabelle and Ancho's in Austin and Silo in San Antonio-- served tasty morsels to compliment the wines.   Bodegas Breton y Cia, Campo Viejo, Faustino Martinez, Marques de Caceres, Martinez Bujanda, Montecillo, Ramon Bilbao, Marques de Arienzo, Cune, Marques de Murrieta, and Herederos del Marques de Riscal were featured.  I especially liked the fresh and fruity 1996 Lorinon Crianza of Bodegas Breton y Cia, the lovely floral aromas and clean fruit of the 1994 Montecillo Reserva, the rich spiciness of the 1995 Marques de Arienzo Crianza and the lovely breadth of fruit and complexity of the 1992 Faustino Martinez I Gran Reserva.

AMERICAN VINTNERS ASSOCIATION (AVA) with President Simon Siegl in attendance held its Fall Membership Meeting in Austin, Texas, at the OMNI Hotel.   Texas wines were sampled from the Texas winery members: Becker Vineyards, Bell Mountain Vineyards, Dry Comal Creek, Fall Creek Vineyards, Fredericksburg Winery, Hidden Springs Winery, La Bodega Winery, La Buena Vida Vineyards, Pheasant Ridge Winery, and Spicewood Vineyards.   Wines from all regions representing 43 states  were sampled.   AVA is a trade association of U.S. wineries.   It fosters general communications within the wine industry and provides a unified voice for government relations issues.   With over 575 members from 43 states, AVA has the largest most diverse winery membership of any trade association and the only one with a national membership.  AVA’s primary mission is to improve the business environment for wineries through government relations. 

PENFOLDS, Southcorp Wines USA held "Penfolds Master Class" presented by Enologist and Assistant Winemaker Peter Gago (who co-authored the well-done book AUSTRALIAN  WINE from Vine to the Glass)  in Austin at Louis 106 restaurant.   The event included an exploration of Australia's premier Shiraz appellations and food pairings with Shiraz and Penfolds premium white wines.  Three regional dishes were paired: Pacific Rim dish--Pepper Crusted House-cured Salmon with Miso Wasabi Glaze--suited well the young,  fresh and fruity 1999 Penfolds Eden Valley Reserve Riesling--perfectly chilled at 43 degrees, and the 1998 Penfolds Adelaide Hills Chardonnay--with vanilla, toasty oak, chamomile tea and green apples-- also paired well with this dish.  With Classic French dish--Wild Mushroom and Escargot Chowder and Chervil Sabayon--I liked the 1996 Penfolds Yattarna, a rich and buttery wine that accompanied the smoky flavors of the soup.  The Classic American Grill dish--Chargrilled Pork Tenderloin, Spicy Fruit Salsa with Butternut Squash Risotto--paired well with a number of the delicous and well-made Penfolds' Shiraz: 1996 Coonawarra Bin 128;  1995 Seppelt Great Western; 1996 Seaview E&C McLaren Vale; 1991 Lindemans Hunter Valley and the 1993 Grange.  Choose any of them for an enjoyable drink.   For information: www.penfolds.com

MESSINA HOF reported that Texas produces 1.7 million gallons of wine and the Bryan-based winery entertained 150,000 people in tours, seminars and other events during 1999.  Messina Hof has opened The Villa, a vineyard-side bed and breakfast that promises to pamper guests with fine cuisine, luxury accommodations and spa services by appointment.  Contact: (409) 778-9463 ext. 34

ROBERT MONDAVI launched its first wine club: Robert Mondavi Ensemble.   Contact www.robertmondavi.com and 1/888/RMONDAVI ext. 3490.  The winery has also announced the winners of the 1999 Culinary Awards: The 1999 Culinary Award winners are: Mario Batali of Babbo in New York City; Rick Bayless of Frontera Grill in Chicago; Susanna Foo of Susanna Foo in Philadelphia; Bob Kinkead of Kinkead's in Washington, D.C.; Michael Mina of Aqua in San Francisco and Julian Serrano of Picasso in Las Vegas.  

CLOS DU BOIS hit the one million case mark and celebrated 25 years of history in Sonoma County.  Founded in 1974 by Frank Woods, Clos du Bois surprised the wine industry in 1980 with an affordable barrel-fermented Chardonnay that continues to rank as one of the top Chardonnays in the country.  After a number of locations, a new state-of-the-art winery and tasting room on Geyserville Road opened in 1990. "My first job was frost patrol in Frank's Dry Creek vineyard," says Tom Hobart, the winery's general manager and Frank's first employee.   "Dry Creek was mainly prunes and apples in those days." In 1988, Clos du Bois was sold to Hiram Walker/Allied Lyons, Plc., called the Wine Alliance.  In 1998, it became Allied Domecq, to reflect the corporate ownership and now encompasses nine brands: Clos du Bois, Callaway, William Hill, Atlas Peak (check out the new beautiful calendar by George Rose), Harveys sherries, Domecq sherries, Balbi Vineyards, Marques de Arienzo Rioja and Cockburn's ports.

BEAULIEU Vineyard's 1995 George de Latour scored best in its category, winning the best Cabernet trophy at the 1999 International Wine Challenge.  The event attracted more than 8500 entries in all categories and more than 1500 in the Bordeaux-style category.  It included wines from France, Australia, California, Chile and South Africa.

BERINGER Wine Estates has purchased St. Clement.

MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Wines LTD has added Champagne to its portfolio of French and American wines.

CALIFORNIA WINE WINNERS 2000, a concise paperback for $8.95, is a report of all the medals awarded to California wines in the 1999 round of wine judgings from nine important national wine competitions.  The book covers the 23 most popular varietals and blends and this 17th annual guide gives a quick view and award statistics conveninetly in this useful book.  Contact  Varietal Fair, P.O.Box 528, Graton, CA 95444, ph. 707/823-8795

ROBERT MONDAVI family of wineries has debuted its IO (pronounced eye-oh), a blend of traditional Rhone-style grapes.  Io takes its name from the mythological Argive princess, daughter of an ancient river god.   Io's descendent, Hercules, plays a major role in Greek mythology, and  Asia Minor's western coast, Ionia, was named after Io.     Winemaker's Notes:  Io's debut release  blends traditional Rhône Valley grapes for a beautifully expressive and concentrated winewith aromas of blueberry, plum and smokiness mingled with scents of rose petals and a touch of black pepper. The flavors are ripe and seamlessly integrated with hints of blueberry, dried cranberry and Provençal herbs. Plush and supple, the texture carries the flavors through to a long, velvety finish—a sign of even greater complexities to come with additional bottle age.  Vineyards:   The 1996 Io sources two outstanding vineyards—the Byron Vineyard, located in Santa Maria Valley, and the Stolpman Vineyard in Santa Ynez Valley. Grapes from the cooler Byron Vineyard are firmly structured with dark purple fruit components, while fruit from the slightly warmer Stolpman Vineyard brings mature red fruit flavors and a softer tannin structure. 

Visiting Washington wine country is a treat.  I wish I could have done more, but I was on my way to Pasco for the Tri-Cities speaking engagement and wine competition.  I did manage short visits at Stimson Lane to to dine with friends and taste severla delicious Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest wines, an overnight at DeLille Cellars ( wish-list wines)  and morning tasting and lunch with the Hedges.    I'm so glad.  I'm very familiar with the delicious wines of Chateau Ste. Michelle, DeLille Cellars but this was my introduction to Hedges (please wsee below).   Look for all these products and please see awards below. 

WASHINGTON TRI-CITIES

The 1999 TRI-CITIES WINE FESTIVAL Wine Competition winners awarded golds:

Several other choices I awarded gold  included:

BANCO D'ASSAGIO Wine Competition in Torgiano, Italy, showed that, just as wines in most producing regions everywhere, the Italian wines across the board have improved markedly in the last decade.  This year's competition was held as usual in the incomparable Le Tre Vaselle five-star hotel and convention facility and  was run precisely and expertly  with a group of 20 international wine journalists and 30 Italian enologists forming the judging panels--called commissions here.  I was really impressed with the delicious wines.  The wines, of course, were tasted blind; however, each wine was numbered and once disclosed the numbers could be compared with my notes to see what I had awarded various wines.  The following wines won awards and received my highest priase.


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NEW RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)

HUSCH Vineyards has released the 1997 Pinot Noir, $18.50, and 1998 Sauvignon Blanc, $11.50, and both have already won gold medals at the California State Fair.  The Sauvignon Blanc also was awarded Best of Class and tied for Best Wine in Region as the State Fair and won gold at the San Diego National Wine Competition.   The Pinot Noir received a gold at the Pacific Rim International Wine Competition.

CHAMPAGNE NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Brut Premier Cru $30 is 20% Chardonnay, 40%Pinot Noir and 40% Pinot Meunier.  It has been aged in bottle for three years.   The winemaker says he looks for the pure expression of the house style.

PENFOLDS has released two value priced quality wines from Koonunga Hills:  the 1998 Chardonnay, partially barrel fermented and matured in French oak, $10, and the 1998 Semillon Chardonnay blend (60% and 40% respectively), partially fermented and matured in French and American oak $7.50.  Both are well-suited to white meats, seafood and pasta dishes.

SEVEN PEAKS, theCalifornia joint venture between Southcorp Wines of Australia and the Niven family of Central Coast, has released its second Cabernet Sauvignon, the 1997 SEVEN PEAKS Central Coast Cabernet $13.  Australian winemaker Ian Shepherd has been producing the wines since the 1996 debut and lives in San Luis Obispo.   "Selected from four Central Coast high quality appellations, the wine has ripe berry fruit, hints of spice and tobacco, is generous with a soft lingering finish." 

CHATEAU SOUVERAIN winemaker Ed Killian says, "As I enjoy this year's crush, I also look back on a great red wine vintage of the '90s--the 1997 vintage.  Substantial crop levels and a long even summer  allowed for extended hang time.  These conditions contributed to the high degree of flavor ripeness and produced a Merlot of great concentration, color and character." The 1997 CHATEAU SOUVERAIN Merlot is $17.

MERIDIAN VINEYARDS 1998 Chardonnay is $11 and Winemaker Chuck Ortman says, "I think you can tell a Santa Barbara Chardonnay from any others by the intense tropical fruit flavors.  In this vintage, I blended several vineyards' grapes to get crisp, tart apple and concentrated fruit; richness and oily textures and flavors of peaches and distinctive citrus notes.  Enjoy!"

RODNEY STRONG 1995 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $40 and the 1997 Reserve Chardonnay Chalk Hill estate are from choice estate vineyards and carefully selected barrel-to-barrel in the cellar.  The wine is the product of a ten-year investment of over $40 million in vineyard acquisition, replanting and upgrades at every level of production.   Flavors are complex, elegant and balanced.

RIVEFORT de FRANCE released its 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Winemaker Aaron Pott uses all the grapes from Mr. and Mrs. Rouquette's vineyard in the Coteaux du Languedoc for these wines, astonishingly only $6.   "Mr. Rouquette is a veterinarian who works the hillside vineyard that has been in his family for four generations," Aaron says. "His medical skills are called upon when the circus is in town for his expertise with kangaroos, elephants and camels.  My friend married the girl next door and they always prepare a cassoulet when I'm there to enjoy with our red wines.  I'd like to share it with you."

Cassoulet
Serves 6

  • 2 pounds kidney or great northern beans
  • 3 slices bacon
  • Salt and Pepper
  • 2 onions, roughly chopped
  • 1 pound duck leg, split into thighs and drumstick, cut into 2" pieces (substitute duck sausage)
  • 9 ounces pork shoulder or ham cut into 1" pieces
  • 2 garlic sausages, cut into 1" pieces
  • 3 tomatoes, peeled and deseeded
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1/4 cup breadcrumbs, coarse
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
DIRECTIONS:
dot.gif (854 bytes) Soak the beans overnight.  Drain the beans, then cover with water and simmer until tender.
dot.gif (854 bytes) Line the base of a casserole dish with bacon.  Over this place half the well-drained beans, seasoned with salt and pepper.  Add the onions, roughly chopped, and all the pieces of meat.  Cover with the rest of the beans.
dot.gif (854 bytes) Puree the tomatoes in a food processor and mix with chopped garlic, salt and pepper.  Pour the tomato puree over the beans, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and drizzle with olive oil.  Cook in the oven at 350 degrees F. for two hours.

LUIANO 1996 Chianti Classico $13--"fruity, nuances of cassis, medium bodied, balanced, clean lingering finsh, enjoy young with roasts, steaks, chops.

CARPINETO 1997 Chianti classico $14--clean bouquet, hints of berries, violets, rich and dry, cedar and tobacco, seve with lamb, beef stews, liver pate.

The  Regusci family has been farming grapes in excess of 100 years in Napa Valley.  They definitely know what they're doing with chardonnay.   The PWI's  VENEZIA 1997 Chardonnay $20, is rich and full of style, a very complex nose of tropical fruits and vanilla with slightly toasted oak notes, buttery and full on the palate.

PEZZI KING states its goal is to establish its position as a leader in the production of intensely flavored and well balanced, Dry Creek Valley appellatioin red wines.  I think they have.  I really like these excellent wines--including the whites.  The productions are limited but well worth a search.

Robert Mondavi family owns several properties with new releases: ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY, WOODBRIDGE, ROBERT MONDAVI COASTAL and IO, a Rhone-style blend from Winemaker Ken Brown of Byron Vineyard and Winery.  The 1996 IO (pronounced eye-oh)

KOBRAND has released several wines.

KENWOOD has released its highly acclaimed Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon.  Winemaker Mike Lee selected his finest barrels of Sonoma Valley wine to create this 1 995 Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 21st label, titled Klox, is by orintmaker and painter Karl Kasten.  Two Mayacamas vineyards supplied the grapes.  The KENWOOD 1995 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon $65 is intensely concentrated, balanced and stylish wine.  Also KENWOOD 1998 Chardonnay Sonoma County $15 is from a long, cool growing season, is rich and rounded, fruity character, apple, pear, and vanilla with a creamy finish."

BERINGER is celebrating the year 2000 and winemaking at Jacob and Frederick Beringer's place since 1876 with Winemaker Ed Sbragia's 1996 "Third Century" Cabernet Franc, Howell Mountain, $75.  Ed tells me he choose this new wine to continue the innovations of the Beringer founders.  "The Howell Mountain grapes yield a dense, deep wine with an immediate mouthfilling hit of dark berry fruits backed by subtle layers of cedary spices.  There's an amazing length to the finish    that's typical of the Howell Mtn. Cabernet Franc--the reason I always add a little to my Private Reserve Cabernet.  The firm structure promises considerable longevity.  I hope you'll celebrate with us."

RANCHO ZABACO Winemaker Bob Bertheau says he has crafted a Sonoma Heritage Vines 1997 Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel that will knock your socks off.  Research shows that Zinfandel is trendy, and that one out of four wine consumers consider themselves to be Zin enthusiasts.  They seek big, rich, bold, intensely jammy fruit flavors in their wines and Bob says this is a fruit-driven wine.  At $11, it is the third offering in the Rancho Zabaco porfolio--named for one of the original Mexican land grants.

McDOWELL Valley Vineyards in Mendocino County, CA, has released a stunning duo of Rhone-style wines.  McDowell 1998 Marsanne $16 is a "luscious, bright wine, apricot aromas and floral notes of honeysuckle, round and soft, and six weeks in oak added sweet toastiness."  The McDowell 1998 Viognier $16, "has a huge bouquet, intense floral notes, pears, and lively citrus.  The mouthfeel is luscious with pineapple and peach, a wine of supurb balance."

CHATEAU ST. JEAN released two wines that need serious consideration for your Thanksgiving table: 1998 Johannisberg Riesling $9, and the 1998 Gewurztraminer $9.   The Riesling goes with just about everything and the Gewurztraminer is especially delcius with smoked turkey.  These wines both suit the multiple flavors and textures on your festive table.  They'll add a lot for a little money.

WOODBRIDGE, formerly Cherokee Wine Association,  was acquired and renamed  by the Robert Mondavi family in 1979.   The history of the Lodi area included many Italian immigrants.   Cesare and Rosa Mondavi, originally of Sassoferrato, Italy,  brought their family here to continue this winemaking tradition. Their son, Robert, grew up there and discovered his love of wine.  He established his Napa Valley winery in 1966. In 1979 he was ready to begin a new wine venture, returning to Lodi  where he could make quality, affordable wines, the sort enjoyed with every meal. Woodbridge was the answer.  The winery  has changed tremendously in the past 20 years.  The wines have become rich and complex . The oak-aging program has expanded to include 50,000 American and French oak barrels to give the wine depth and concentration.  Wwhite wines go direct-to-press to retain fresh, vibrant fruit character. Red wines undergo extended skin contact for richness and intensity.

Other MONDAVI wines released:

DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 1997 "Heritage Clone" Zinfandel $15--"this debut release wineis from pre-Prohibition era budwood in order to preserve the classic characteristics of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.  It's ripe blackberry, plum, and black cherry with allspice, balanced with oak."

KING ESTATE has released two new dessert wines perfect for the holdiays: Late Harvest Riesling, $18,  and Oregon Pinot Gris - Vin Glace, $18.  Both are excellent served with fresh fruit and cheese.  Winemaker Bill Bucklin syas "These wines have received high acclaim from our tasting room customers.  I hope you enjoy them as well.  They're a perfect fall dessert."

CLOS DU BOIS has released a specila for the millennium called Y-TOKAY.   It's the perfect slightly sweet white wine to sip and celebrate.  Try it with sauteed sea scallops or oysters on the half shell.  Serve chilled.  It's made with 100% Tokay grapes, $9.


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© 1999 Sarah Jane English
Sarah Jane: sarahjane@sarahjanewineandfood.com