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The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 30th Edition
October 25, 1999
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PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)
Sauvignon Blanc
Zinfandel
Riesling
Gewurztraminer
Pinot Noir
Sarah Jane will join wine professionals from all over the world to judge the 15th BANCO D'ASSAGIO DEI VINI D'ITALIA, one of Italy's most important wine competitions, sponsored by the Ministry of Agriculture and the Umbrian Regional government in November.
FREIXENET, the world’s largest producer of méthode champenoise, has prepared something special for the millenium celebration—a limited bottling Cordon Negro Estate Brut in a black bottle with a brass crest. It comes in a black pouch with a "Cuvée 2000" medallion. The wine has fine, persistent bubbles, an excellent mousse, aromas of green apples and citrus and silky finish.
CALIFORNIA STATE FAIR announced its awards--29 double-gold, 143 gold, 337 silver and 351 bronze for a total of 859 medal winners. Forty percent of the wines entered won medals.
FRANCISCAN has acquried the Lewis Ranch in southern Napa Valley for $4.6 millon, a new 160-acre property destined for Cabernet Sauvignon.
BRIDLEWOOD WINERY in the Santa Inez winegrowing region has released its first crop of wines since opening its doors in April 1999. Twelve debuted wines received 40 medals, including the Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese. Bridlewood is a new, lushly landscaped, landmark Mission-style wine estate in Santa Barbara. The property had formerly been one of Santa Barbara's premier equestrian rehabilitation facilities. In 1998 owner Cory Holbrook renovated the estate and made it into a winery, retaining the property's architectural charm, and brought on board the acclaimed winemaker, Daniel Gehrs, as consulting winemaker. Many of the small production wines are only available through the tasting room, or web site--www.bridlewoodwinery.com. Owner Holbrook says, "1997 is Bridlewood's first vintageand the culmination of my 20 years of dreaming, reading, driving, planning, talking, learning, driving some more and generally making a nuisance of myself in the wine industry In the end I finally found the perfect place! 105 acres of benchlancd overlooking the breathtaking Santa Inez Valley. Theclimate here is perfect and already gorwing some of the country's finest wine grapes. That's why we're here. Fine wine representss the perfect balance of art and science, it challenges the intellect and satisfies the soul. Sharing this passion with others is the fun part and the most rewarding."
GALLO of SONOMA winemaker Gina Gallo and her grandmother Aileen Gallo accepted the Winery of the Century Award on behalf of the E. & J. Gallo Winery, announced at the Los Angeles County Fair's prestigious Wines of the Americas competition. In a heartfelt speech, Gina said, "I'm honored that my grandmother was able to be with me to accept this award on behalf of our family. She worked hand in hand with my Grandpa Julio when our family winery was founded, just as my Aunt Amelia worked along side my Uncle Ernest. This initial team of four demonstrated the importance of team work and was the foundation of what has merited today's winery of the century award. Many people haave contributed their talents not only to our family winery," she said, "but to the industry as a whole. How blessed we are to be a part of such a remarkabale industry, creating an ever-brighter future in wine."
PEPPER BRIDGE WINERY began construction in mid-September on
its state-of-the-art winemaking facility that will produce ultra-premium red
wines in Walla Walla, Washington. Owner/winegrower Norm McKibben will
keep part of the fruit he usually sells sto Leonetti, Hogue, L'Ecole No. 41,
and others to make his own wines.
ROSEMOUNT Estate Australia was named "Winery of the Year" at San Francisco International Wine Competition.
RAYMOND VINEYARD & CELLAR won "Best Wine in aVarietal Category" for its 1996 Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, San Francisco Fair.
GLORIA FERRER 1991 Brut Royal Cuvee won "Best Sparkling Wine" at the San Francisco Fair.
BEAULIEU received 33 double gold, gold and silver medals in seven well-known national and international wine competitions: Los Angeles County Fair gold medal, "Best of Class," and a gold from Orange County Fair, for Beaulieu 1995 Tapestry red table wine; silver medals for Beaulieu 1996 Carneros Reserve Pinot Noir, 1996 Signet Collection Sangiovese and 1997 Signet Collection Beauzeaux. At the International Wine Challenge in London (7000 wines entered), a gol d for Beaulieu 1996 Georges de la Latour Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, silver for 1995 Carneros Reserve Chardonnay and 1996 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, among others.
HIGHLAND INN, now a Park Hyatt Hotel, is offerieng three Millennium packages--platinum, gold and silver. For more information, please call 800/682-4811, or Gabriela Knubis: 831/659-0162, gabriela@knubis.com
WineGram, Brewsgram@happyhours.com, announced the tremendous growth in the number of wineries in the 1990s. There are now 2,081 licensed winery facilities in the U.S. California represents more than half, Washington State grew from 93 to 125 and now 48 states produce wine.
PEAK WINES INTERNATIONAL announced that GEYSER PEAK Winery was awarded "Winemaker of the Year" trophy at the 1999 International Wine & Spirits Competition held in London. This award is a repeat for Geyser Peak which won the Robert Mondavi trophy for "Winemaker of the Year" in 1998. Geyser Peak also received a trophy for the Number One Zinfandel in the world for the 1996 Sonoma County Zinfandel. Only two trophys were awarded to California wineries; both went to Geyser Peak. Gold awards went to GEYSER PEAK 1997 Century Old Zinfandel, 1996 Reserve Shiraz, 1996 Soname Zinfandel and 1997 Reserve Chardonnay, Alexander Valley.
MIRASSOU, at a Press Tasting held in July, the California State Fair WineCompetition added "Best of Class" honors to the gold medals already won by two Mirassou wines: 1997 San Vicente Chardonnay (a double-gold) and the 1997 Showcase Pinot Noir--its first release and still it won the best Pinot Noir from California's North CEntral Coast.
SHAFER VINEYARDS "Line on Wines" reports that in 1998 the sales of white and blush wines were two to one, compared to sales of red wines.
KORBEL reported that sales are soaring. The year to date sales for Korbel are running 60% above last year. Korbel produced 1,458,000 cases, taking the winery to its maximum capacity. With only 636,000 cases aging in inventory, the winery is looking at a shortfall of 144, 000 cases. The wine may have to be allocated, but Korbel will not raise prices.
THE WINE INSTITUTE has reported world wine statistics on production and consumption, which may be underreported. The 1997 figures in gallons for the top six country's consumption were France--923,071; Italy--893,457; United States--524,000; Germany--490,86; Spain--383,801; Argentina--356,775. The per capita wine consumption in gallons by country was Luxembourg--16.72; France--15.89; Italy--15.34; Portugal--14.01; Slovenia--13.73; Switzerland--13.05, and the United States was 36th with 1.95 gallons per capita consumption. The U.S. if the fourth largest wine producing country.
COCKBURN'S PORT has declared 1997 a vintage year.
JUDY JORDAN, CEO, is sole owner of J Wine Company--founded in 1986 with her father, Tom Jordan. Tom said, "it's very gratifying to work with such a capable daughter, who has guided the day-to-day operations." J Wine Co. will produce 50,000 cases in 1999.
L'ORVAL 1531 is a new sparkling wine imported by Ste. Genevieve in West Texas. It is called 1531 because of a legend. Purportedly, that year monks from an abbey in the sleepy French hamlet of Limoux perfected the art of double fermentation. The result was a light, effervescent, dry sparkling wine--the first of its kind. The generic name for this specific type is "Blanquette de Limoux." L'ORVAL 1531 is an elegant and fruity sparkling wine. It joins the popular line of still wines produced by L'ORVAL, including the award-winning varietals: Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay Chasan. L'ORVAL 1531 is available in major markets across the country and is a great find at $11 a bottle.
DRY CREEK VINEYARD 1998 Fume Blanc Sonoma won"Best of Class & Double Gold" at the 1999 California State Fair, two other gold medals, four silver medals and a bronze. Pair with seafood, chicken and pork dishes.
NEW
RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
GLORIA FERRER Winemaker Bob Iantosca just keeps outdoing himself. He began making still wines from his excellent estate pinot noir and chardonnay grapes seven years ago and they keep expressing his delicious style and the unique estate terroir. The most recent are from 1997, the largest harvest ever for Gloria Ferrer as well as one of the earliest in Carneros history. The fruit was fine and bountiful, offering layers of green apple, citrus and pear flavors elegantly completed with a long, silky finish. Check out the sparkling wines for your coming celebrations--hopefully they'll occur daily.
MIRASSOU had its debut release of the 1997 Pinot Noir Showcase Selection, $30, with complex aromas of black currants and cherries with a background of spice and cedar. This wine is a very limited release(1,100) produced from 54 barrels representing five different types of oak, and three strains of yeast, a gentle rack-and-return method of fermentation to maintain excellent body and color and a beautiful balance. On the palate, the well-integrated, multi-layered fruit characteristics are accentuated by soft tannins and rich mouthfeel. Chef de Cuisine David Page serves this wine with his Seared Sea Bass on a Warm Salad of Morel Mushrooms, Celery Root and Fresh Truffle.
MARQUES de ARIENZO are produced at Bodegas Domecq in the heart of Spain's Rioja Alavesa--the highest of three Rioja appellations. This hilly sub-region is know for fruity, aromatic, deeply colored and velvety-styled wines. Bodegas Domecq is a modern winery and the largest vineyard owner in the Alavesa. The wines are created exclusively from grapes harvested from its 1400-acre estate--planted on south-facing slopes. The red wines of Rioja are aged longer before release than most American wines and they offer cnsumers mature wines--naturally softened by time--at a moderate price.
CARTLIDGE & BROWNE 1998 Chardonnay used grapes sourced from the best vineyards throughout California--majority from the cooler North and Central Coast regions, 89% barrel-fermented and 63% underwent malolactic, $10--"pear, pineapple,ripe citrus, complex, round and supple.
KING ESTATE produced a summer favorite of mine I plan to enjoy all year long, the King Estate 1998 Vin Gris, Oregon Pinot Noir, $10. This pink wine has a solid acid structure and nice tannins as well as delicious flavors. It's a great pinot-noir-styled pink wine--so versatile and an ideal food wine with all sorts of dishes. King also produces LORANE VALLEY wines as great buys.The Lorane Valley 1996 Pinot Noir $10--"bing cherry, raspberry, rosemary spice, mint and char, bright fruit and hint of earth.
HOGUE CELLARS, a consistent producer of fine wines across its line, has produced its first Pinot Gris. Winemaker David Forsyth says, "This 1998 Pinot Gris is a brand-new varietal for us and a relatively new grape for Washington. While not yet proven, it has exciting potential. Pinot Gris is grown throughout the world, including France's Alsace, Italy (where it's called Pinot Grigio), Australia, Oregon and California--more recently. Hogue was among the first to grow it in Washington in the cool Yakama Valley. Syrah is another relative newcomer, but it has already established itself as an important red variety in the warmer areas of Columbis Valley. Fume Blanc has a long track record at Hogue and a reputation for consistently delivering quality and Washington's trademark balance of full fruit flavors and crisp acidity.
THE MONTEREY VINEYARD (TMV) Winemaker Ken Green says 1997 was the kind of year he expects to see only in his dreams. At harvest the vines were loaded with ripe clusters of grapes in perfect condition. It was the largest harvest in the winery's history and the quality of the fruit was as good as in any in recent memory. These wines are great examples of what Ken can do in a very good year.
BEAUJOLAIS WINE COUNCIL has released four festive wines. Dubbed "vin de fete" and "vin de la joie," the wines from Beaujolais are considered wines for fellowship and hospitality. The ten Beaujolais Crus (Brouilly, Chenas, Chiroubles, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgan, Moulin a Vent, Regnie and Saint-Amour) are the jewels of Beaujolais. www.beaujolais.com
Georges Duboeuf reported that 1998 "is undoubtedly one of the finest vintages I have seen in the more than 15 years that we have been marketing wines from this region in the south of France. The Merlot and Syrah are excellent, filled with blackcurrant, cherry and blackberry, licorice and coffee with hints of spice. All the wines are harmonius and have a positive future."
ACACIA's returning Prime Minister Mike Richmond reported, "Acacia has remained a dynamic place since several friends and I founded it 20 years ago. Chalone Wine Group acquired Acacia 13 years ago and I returned last year, after various roles with Chalone, to find Acacia's spirit intact, at times humble, at times outrageous, but never pretentious. Acacia is a company of strong personalities with bold ideas but conciliatory demeanors and one energized by change. Pinot Noir is the most transparent and protean of varieties. It expresses the uniqueness of each vineyard site. This year we return to our founding principles of single vineyard designation. . . Acacia is all about individual expressions."
CARMENET 1996 Moon Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, said Winemaker Jeff Baker, "has, in the past, selected grapes from the best of 25 to 30 fermentation lots from our estate vineyard. In 1996, over half of our estate vineyard was destroyed by a wildfire and the range of available lots for grapes was severly reduced. Now fully replanted, our vineyards will yieild their first crop this year (1999), but until back to full capacity, we're selecting grapes from two neighborhood vineyards--flavor profile unique to this wine will maintain. I'm excited, however, about the 1996--broad range of flavors , consistently complex, powerful and delicious blend, cherries, black currant, spicy with explosive fruit flavors, soft lingereing finish, soft tannins, enjoy for two decades, $39."
JOSEPH PHELPS Winemaker Craig Williams wine releases from three vintages. "Although these wines were produced from distinctly different growing seasons, I believe they represent convincing examples of our continued efforts to refine regional and varietal quality.
CLOS DU VAL Winemaker Bernard Portet has released a limited production of 1995 Clos du Val Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. "While the 1995 crop was quite small due to rain and cool temperatures, we had a lovely summer that allowed the grapes to develop intense flavors, colors and aromas," he saiad. "The resulting wine is an absolutely beautiful blend in the traditional Bordeaux style. It has toasty vanilla tones, rich ripe red fruits, peppery notes and beautifully integrated oak and fruit."
TALTARNI VINEYARDS in Australia, imported by Clos du Val Wine Co., Ltd., has released the 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon--87% cabernet sauvignon/8% cabernet franc/5%merlot, raspberry and black currant, coffee and chocolate, sweet French oak, rich and intense fruit, $16. The TALTARNI 1997 Shiraz, $15, is a blend of 98.5% shiraz and 1.5% malbec--blackberry, blueberry, pepper and spice aromas.
CAKEBREAD 1998 Sauvignon blanc $20 is a classic expression of this varietal--"intense melon, citrus fruit aromas, delicate floral and herbal notes, slight touch oak, fruity palate, clean and crisp texture."
PIGHIN 1997 Pinot Grigio del Collio $20--"marries pronounced varietal intensity with exceptional purity of fruit, aromatic, slightly spicy, distinctive notes of acacia and hazelnuts, clean, fresh, delicate fruit"
NOZZOLE 1998 le Bruniche Chardonnay $13--"elegant, clean, fragrent bouquet of white and tropical fruits, slight nuances of toast, balance of ripe fruit and fresh acidity and medium body with delicate complexity"
MICHEL REDDE 1997 Pouilly-Fume "La Moynerie" $19--"intense, aromatic varietal fragrance of herbs and spice, elegant, vibrant fruit acidity, minerally gunflint notes, full, nervy and crisp"
GRGICH HILLS 1997 Chardonnay $30--"El Nino created early budbreak and longer than usual growing season, resulting in grapes with more intense flavors, aromas and varietal character, producinig a very elegant classically-styled Chardonnay wine--complex ripe fruit, floral and mineral components, one of our best to date. The GRGICH HILLS 1997 Sauvignon Blanc $18, had leaves stripped to ripen berries and reduce characteristic herbaceousness--"aromas of ripe melon and citrus fruit, crisp and clean, tangy fruit flavors, well-balanced, refreshing, mouth-filling.
CYRUS is ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS limited production, handcrafted, proprietary red wine from the Wetzel Family Estate. It marks the estate's 25th anniversary. CYRUS 1995, $35, is the premier vintage, a blend of 78% cabernet sauvignon/20% merlot/2% cabernet franc (selected as each grape reached its optimum) from selected barrels--"
CALLAWAY has release the latest vintages of the winery's "Special Collection." CALLAWAY 1998 Viognier $15--honeysuckle, delicate floral, peach and apricot, serve with salmon, fresh trout andmany foods,"; CALLAWAY 1998 Pinot Gris $14--"vanillin complexity, pink grapefruit, crisp, serve with mildly-spiced chicken, mild white cheeses, smoked salmon,"; CALLAWAY 1997 Doletto $15--"soft and supple tannins, blackberry flavors, medium body, perfect for grilled fish, light meats, pasta dishes.
MARCELINA is a new name in Napa, a culmination of the Gallo family's more than 50 years experience of working with Napa fruit. Marcelina's winemakers benefit from the half-century relationships that are the sources for this fruit. Rather than overpowering the fruit, head winemaker Marcello Monticelli lets the grapes speak for themselves. The result for the MARCELINA 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) is a perfect harmony of lush, complex, elegant fruit that underwent 30% whole berry fermentation, 30% extended maceration and 18 months in predominantly new American oak. The end result is a rich, full-bodied Cabernet with a velvety mouthfeel. Keeping millennium celebrations in mind, in addition to the limited six-bottle cases produced, MARCELINA Vineyards has bottled 2000 commemorative "Marcellennium" three liter bottles ($199.99) with the same beautiful, colorful, festive label that looks like it is hand-painted on the bottle.
DRY CREEK VINEYARD'S owner David Stare was pleased to hear wine authority Ronn Wiegand's report of the resurgence of interest in Sauvignon Blanc. He said restaurateurs across the country are increasingly aware of this wine's natural affinity with a remarkable range of foods. DRY CREEK has a flavor profile spectrum from the "Society of Blancs" that addresses "Grassy," "Fruity," and "Spicy" aspects of Sauvignon Blanc: Grassy includes Floral, Garden Herbal and Fresh categories--lemon grass, straw, fresh grass, rose petal, violet, jasmine, oregano, bay leaf, rosemary, mint, fresh asparagus crisp pepper; Fruity--tropical, citrus, lemon, grapefruit, lime, orange, passion fruit, melon, pineapple; Spicy--nutty, woody, vanilla, almond, toast, cedar, oak.
PENFOLDS reports that 1997 was excellent vintage. Two new releases from Adelaide Hills--1,300 feet and rapidly becoming one of Australia's premier cool climate regions-- exemplify the vintage: 1997 PENFOLDS Adelaide Hills Chardonnay $27 and 1997 PENFOLDS Adelaide Hills Semillon $27.
THE WINE APPRECIATION GUILD has published (June 1999) Christie's World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine by Tom Stevenson--335 pages, hundreds of photographs, maps, tasting notes and wine ratings, a glossary on grape varieties, a glossory of technical terms, hardcover, $50. Call 800/231-9463. The catalogue says that this book is the first in-depth guide to sparkling wines of the world from Champagne to California, Italy to Australia and beyond. . . The first section describes the history of sparkling wines and proves . . . that the English rather than the French first produced a fizzy wine. The main body of the book is devoted to profiles of the world's sparkling wine producers accompanied by tastingnotes, recommendations for drinking and good value for your money. Another section lists the author's personal selection of sparkling winess to drink for the Millennium. But, it is so much more-- well-organized and easy to peruse. The enclyclopedia satisfies a search--which frequently either omits what's wanted or skimps on information. It is a resource that's well-written, easy to use and indispensable to anyone seriously interested in sparkling wines. The quality of sparkling wines around the world has risen to such a degree that Champagne is no longer the undisputed choice among sparklers. The bare basics of the book are harback, 320 pages, 600 color maps, $50. It's the first in-depth guide to sparkling wines of the world --from Champagen to California--and elsewhere. The first section describes the history of sparkling wines, the main body is devoted to profiles of the producers with tasting notes and a third section presents the author's personal recommendations. Tom Stevenson is the author of 14 books and winner of 21 literary awards. His research is fabulous and his style compelling. I really like this book.
THE WINE SPECTATOR's Pocket Guide to Wine is available for $5.95, hard cover at bookstores or call 800/761-4099. It includes the "ABC's of Wine Tasting," wine buying strategies, flavor profiles of the major wine grapes with pronunciation tips, advice on serving and storing wine, a quick reference glossary of wine terms, a handy pull-out vintage chart and more. It's a handy, quick reference with convenient, sensible advice.
HARCOURT BRACE announced the released of two new books by Oz Clarke, wine correspondent for London's Daily Telegraph: Oz Clarke's New Encyclopedia of Wine ($40), with 700 color photographs, maps, and labels; more than 1,600 concise, detailed entries; 37 special regional features; profiles of key wine producers; storing, serving and tasting wine; vintage charts, and a glossery of wine-making terms and techniques. It concisely offers an enormous amount of information. Another, even more concise wine guide is Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Guide 2000: up-to-date vintage information; easy-to-use alphabetical organization; more than 1,600 entries on wines, regions, grapes, producers and key wine terms; food and wine pairings; best buys of the year; 320 pages; two vintage charts; six maps; 48 photographs, $12. Oz Clarke has a pleasant, engaging style that enhances these volumes--available at local bookstores.
CLARKE SWANSON VISITS AUSTIN WITH SUPERB DINNER AT MIRABELLE
If you haven't discovered SWANSON wines, don't delay a moment longer. They are simply supberb. Clarke Swanson, a most gracious host, managed to meet and engage in conversation every guest--more than 50 of them. His wines are as lovely as he is gracious. The menu matched them perfectly. It was a very successful evening indeed. Clarke founded Swanson Vineyards in 1985 with a dedication to handcrafting small quantities of the finest quality Napa Valley wines. He's done it. THey are luscious and elegant and beautifully balanced, fruit-forward wines. The family-owned winery released its first wines in 1990 and the core of the production is Merlot, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Clarke was especially pleased about his Merlot. "It's exciting to place a bet on a grape and be right," he smiled. "I planted merlot in 1985 before it was fashionable and we've seen we were right. My favorite thing about the wine industry is the family life. My kids loved living on a vineyard. All three of my daughters want to move back here. I especially liked building a proprietary red wine with its style and profile. Alexis is a wonderful wine." No disagreements from me--about any of the Swanson wines. They all showed beautifully with dinner and the menu complemented them perfectly.
| © 1999 Sarah Jane English |
| Sarah Jane: sarahjane@sarahjanewineandfood.com |