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The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 29th Edition
August 20, 1999
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PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store, please look for current releases)
Pinot Noir
Italian Red Wine
Chardonnay
Miscellaneous
MIKE GRGICH was honored by the ninth annual Florida Winefest and Auction with the Winefest's Lifetime Achievement Award for . . ."his life-long accomplishments in winemaking and to acknowledge the strides that wine has made in the U.S. as a result of his many years of diligent work and effort in the winemaking industry. A native of Croatia, Mike came to California in 1958 and has worked in Napa for the last 41 years (please see related story).
KING ESTATE, after seven years of operation, has opened a tasting room--hours are Summer (Memorial Day to Labor Day) 12:00 noon to 5 P.M. daily, Winter (Labor Day to Memorial Day) 12:00 noon to 5P.M. weekends or by appointment.
MESSINA HOF has events every month. Please check the web site for specifics: www.messinahof.com
SUTTER HOME's family owned wine company has been renamed Trinchero Family Estates to more accurately eflect the company's growing portfolio: SUTTER HOME (BEST-SELLING TABLE WINE BRAND in U.S.), M. TRINCHERO, MONTEVINA, PORTICO, SOLEO, FRE and SUTTER
SONOMA MISSION INN AND SPA has a web site, www.sonomamissioninn.com
WINE INSTITUTE Newsflash reports: "Since some ingestion of alcohol, perhaps up to two drinks per day, may actually help reduce the risk of stroke, drinking in moderation should be recomended for those who drink alcohol and have no health contradictions to alcohol use." Also reported; "New scientific findings indicate that moderate alcohol consumption may contribute to the elimination of the gastric bacterium Helicobactor (h.) pylori, the leading cause of chronic gastric--a major risk for gstric cancer and peptic ulcer."
SONOMA COUNTY GRAPEGROWERS ASSN. has a web site: www.sonomagrapevine.org
MAISON MARQUES & DOMAINES, the marketing company owned by Louis Roederer, has added two Chablis lines to its brand portfolio. The houses include REGNARD, and Albert PIC & Fils.
SONOMA COUNTY WINERIES ASSOCIATION announced the total raised by the 1999 Sonoma Showcase, $232,950.
ALLIED DOMECQ WINES, USA, which sells and markets appellation-specific wines in the super-and-ultra-premium segment ($7 to $50) and including CLOS DU BOIS, ATLAS PEAK, WILLIAM HILL, CALLAWAY, has launched The Wine Spot: www.thewinespot.com
MIRASSOU 1997 Showcase Chardonnay won "Best White Wine of Competition" at the Los Angeles County Fair Wine Competition. More than 2,000 wines were judged by 50 judges. The MIRASSOU family pioneered Monterey County viticulture and is America's oldest winemaking family.
BOUCHAINE owners announced the appointment of David Stevens as winemaker. Previously the associate winemaker at Domaine Chandon and Freemark Abbey.
19TH NAPA VALLEY WINE AUCTION soared to a record breaking $5.5 million. The Auction's theme "Sentimental Journey," launched a wave of nostalgia and unprecedented generosity among bidders and vintners alike.
ROBERT MONDAVI family celebrated the TO-KALON project, the first major renovation in the winery's 33-year hisstory. It will create a new state-of-the-art facility for producing and barrel aging the winery's reserve, district and vineyard-designated Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Improvements will also be made to the winery's visitor programs.
SANTA BARBARA County wine industry hits $136 million mark. In 1998, grapes alone made up almost 10% of the county's total agricultural crop.
SILVER OAK partners acquired a 158-acre vineyard property in Napa Valley. The modern, ultra high density, vertically trellised, hill site vineyard is south of Stag's Leap District in Soda Canyon with 91 acres planted from 1992 through 1998 to cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc.
DOMAINE CHANDON hired Frederic Cumenal as president/CEO. He has served as general manager of Moet-Hennessy in Europe since 1995. Winemaker Dawnine Dyer, who has been with the winery since 1976, and Zach Berkowitz, vice president of operations and with the winery for 25 years, were promoted and together the trio will lead the company into the 21st century.
ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS has introduced a new label with the 1997 Merlot and the Cabernet Sauvignon.
HIGHLANDS INN has been acquired by PARK HYATT HOTEL, one of only 15 of the 188 Hyatt hotels around th world to bear the elite name. The general manager is Ulrich Samietz, the executive chef is Jeff Rogers (formerly executive sous chef).
SAMUEL BRONFMAN II was elected WINE INSTITUTE chairman.
INTERVIN INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITION, considered by some as the most demanding wine competition in the world, awarded U.S. wineries a total of 286 medals: 34 gold, 123 silver, 129 bronze, and 3 Black Diamond Awards. Wines from 24 countries numbering 1681 entrees competed in a double-blind tasting held in New York and Toronto.
NEW
RELEASES
(quotes are winemakers' comments)
The 750 acres of ZACA MESA Winery , with 246 acres of mesa and hillside vineyards, are located on an elevated plateau which lies within unique Santa Barbara County coastal mountain corridors, directly cooled by Pacific windstreams. The vineyards are among the highest in the county.
ROBET PECOTA's thirty-five acres lie at the foot of Mount St. Helena, Napa Valley, 450 ft. above sea level--three miles north of Calistoga where Mr. Pecota set his sights 20 years ago. For Syrah, however, he looked to Monterey County, "the next Cote Rotie," he says. He has a long term contract for syrah. The Merlot is from his estate Steven Andre Vineyard--a wine of substance.
CHALK HILL ESTATE VINEYARDS AND WINERY, ruggedly beautiful, has 1200 acres dedicated to producing elegant and distintive wines. Chalk Hill appellation differs from its neighboring appellations--cooler Russian River Valley to the west and warmer Alexander Valley to the northeast. Its elevations are higher and soil fertility lower, under the topsoil if a distinctive layer of chalk-colored volcanic ash--hence the name.
INDIGO HILLS Winery has a new addition to its fine wine porfolio--a methode champenoise Blanc de Blancs from North Coast. Blanc de Blancs refers to wines made from white grapes. This wine won a gold medal at the Dallas Moring News Wine Competition.
COCKBURN'S has released 1994 ANNO, a late bottled vintage port, estimated to be one of the best in recent years.
RAYMOND Family created GENERATIONS to celebrate their five generations in the Napa Valley wine business.
Tom Eddy created BUFFALO RIDGE for bottles of high-quality red wine grapes not suited to his Napa Valley wines. In his travels, he discovered French Camp Vineyard, the Central Coast source for this wine.
At BERINGER, because of the bold, concentrated grapes of Ed Sbragia's LIMITED-RELEASE CHARDONNAY, he fermented the grapes in new French oak. "Fruit of this intensity can stand up to all new wood," he says. Sur-lie stirred each week, to integrate the creamy, nutty character. While Ed doesn't play favorites with his wines, Alluvium is the favorite of Jane, his wife. It's also one of mine. The Knights Valley Sauvignon Blanc has great structure. His cousins prefer his Zinfandel--to Ed the second most difficult varietal to grow in Napa Valley.
MIRASSOU, America's oldest winemaking family, has released the very limited 1997 Harvest Reserve Petite Sirah (Mirassou '96 one of most awarded of its type) as a dedication bottling to Edmund Mirassou, fourth generation vintner, industry leader and family patriarch. For seven decades he was a driving force for California's world-class winegrowing and Petite Sirah was a favorite cultivar and wine of his. His family lovingly dedicates this release to his memory.
SIMI 1998 Rose of Cabernet, $10: "A true crowd pleaser!--plum, cranberry, strawberry, refreshing palate"
SIGNORELLEO estate wine program follows traditional French winemaking practices. The estate vineyards allow a variety of soil exposures and vineyard techniques to manage micro-climates.
KENWOOD Winemaker Mike Lee says 1996 was a v ery good vintage and produced soft, smooth cabernets. He fermented each vineyard lot separately to preserve the unique flavors.
TESSERA wines are blended from grapes grown in several California appellations; consequently, Winemaker Ken Greene says they target a flavor profile rather than a winemaking style or terrior. He look for complexity, richness, structure and weight.
KORBEL has combined Chardonnay, America's most popular varital, with the extra sparkle of the methode champenoise. Korbel President Gary Heck says, "This revolutionary product complements an everyday meal to a gourmet feast, making any occasion extra special." KORBEL has also released its fifth in a series of artist bottle of Rose--this one created by Whoopi Goldberg. "Whoopi was a natural for our artists series because both Whoopi and Korbel are synonymous with fun and celebration," Heck says.
PRESTON announced name changes. Lou Preston says, "We've become aware that playful names are more likely to confuse than differentiate, so we're dropping proprietary names. Vin Gris will replace "Le Petit Faux," and Sauvignon Blanc will replace "Cuvee de Fume."
Winemaker Tim Modavi says, "1996 celebrated the 30th anniversery of our winery. Napa Valley's growing season began with early budbreak and bloom, leading to an early harvest. A warmer winter and rains during berry set in May contributed to the small number of clusters and fewer berries. The remainder of the growing season was warm and rain-free, providing for high-quality fruit. Small berries of superior flavor concentration and balance typified the light crop." For 1997, Tim says, "Napa's outstanding 1997 gave us near perfect weather for ripening and ample time on the vine that resulted in fully mature grapes. It was one of the earliest harvests of 1990s, average rainfall, yet considered a dry year because of the timing of the rainfall--heavy in Dec. and Jan. followed by months of dryness. An early budbreak and bloom, and number of days between berry set and harveset was perfect for complete flavor development, supple tannins and exceptional balance in the grapes." ROBERT MONDAVI has released several Napa Valley, Oakville District, Carneros District, and Stags' Leap District wines. The labels indicate the differences among these wines.
BEAULIEU's new releases represent the effort to strive for ever better quality. While reflecting the 100-year-old tradition of fine winemaking, Beaulieu now makes new, modern wines from grapes such as tocai friulano, syrah and sangiovese.
BUENA VISTA has produced three reserve wines in extremely limited quantities. They are hand selected from the very best lots of Buena Vista's prized Carneros Estate vineyard. Highly sought after, they're a culmination of efforts of Vineyard Manager Anne Moller-Racke and Winemaker Judy Matulich-Weitz. They're being released to honor Buena Vista Carneros' 20th Anniversary as part of the RACKE USA family portfolio.
CENTINE from CASTELLO BANFI and the great 1997 vintage, offers this Rosso di Toscana, a blend of sangiovese, cabernet and merlot. With minimal oak aging it has nice deph and structure and the distinct flavors to accompany grilled foods, $9.
FLORA SPRINGS TRILOGY is a proprietary blend (44% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, 16 cabernet franc) from estate vineyards that brings elegance and power to this delectable red wine. The 1996 TRILOGY, says Winemaker Ken Deis, is a complex masterpiece of flavors and aromas that have great persistence and are tempered with a sense of elegance and finesse." $45
Mike Grgich, winemaker and owner of Grgich Hills, talks about wines and life
Mike Grgich celebrates July 4th with more fevor than most native born Americans. The Croatian transplant found his dream in Napa Valley and shows his gratitude for it daily, but especially on the Fourth of July when he hosts a party at his home for his associates and friends. Fortunately, many of us get to enjoy the fruits of his success in his fine bottles of wine.
Mike has taken his enthusisam for America back home where he opend Grgic' Vina Winery in Trstenik, Croatia, in 1995. The first harvest in 1996 produced a white wine called Posip and a red called Plavac Mali. Mike talked to me about his endeavors.
"Emergency is a good school," he smiles. "I worked for Tchelichiff for nine years and he was a strict teacher. That was my base. A winemaker must have constant contact and a core. You must sit the wines. I awoke one night thinking that a tank was about to overflow. I got up to check it, and it was true. There are five lives of wine: vineyards, fermentation--making wine, aging in barrels, aging in bottles--so aromas marry, and opening and enjoying the bottle. Wine is influenced by so many things. And it's necessary to have the grapes, but you can still make vinegar out of good grapes."
"I learned about wines from my father, my life, at U.C. Davis and from others," he says. "Grgich Hills is the blending of two generations since 1990--my daughter Violet, my nephew Igor Ivojeramaz and me. Violet takes care of management and sales and Igor handles the winemakaing and vineyards (Igor is Mike's sister's daughter's husband). The three of us synchronize the wine and vineyard operations. I'm gradually pulling out. Violet and Igor open the winery now, and I come in as I please. I'll never retire, but I'm taking it easy. I've built a ship and now they can navigate it," he smiles. "I opened in 1977 and everything is paid for. At first we concentrated on building the vineyards, the winery and the brand, but now we want to have enough land to grow all our own grapes. I've bought land in American Canyon. We're developing vineyards to have more grapes for the types of wines we want to make. I've also purchased 50 acres in Calistoga (3 A. for Zin) and I'm building a house there on the ranch. Five acres were planted in 1889 and I originally made the 1973 Chateau Montelena Zinfandel out of it, and now I own it! It will be called Miljenko Vin."
"In two years I'll pull out altogether. I'm in Croatia two months of the year. I designed my tanks in Santa Rosa and got pumps and shipped them over. It's the first air-conditioned winery and the first French barrels in Croatia. When communist, the government used to own all businesses in Croatia. Now they're gradually learning a new way aand I'm sowing the seeds of free enterprise. I was born and educated in Croatia and I felt I had an obligation toward my country. I want to help them build up what the Serbians have destroyed. I'm training them (his winery workers) to do a better job than I did."
"I'm just as active as ever," he says, "but I'm working smarter, not harder, and I'm having fun. I'm doing this because I enjoy doing it, not because I need to earn a living. I'm proud of my family and my wines. The biggest value in my winery is my people. Napa Valley is a paradise for me."
Annually, at the KCBX Wine Classic, a few fortunate guests enjoy the splendor of dining at Hearst Castle on a terrace above Neptune
Pool—a recreated, vast colonnaded Greco-Roman style pool. This Wine Classic feast is the only one permitted on the incomparable property. Like pages from The Great Gatsby, the ambiance conjures visions only the cinema can personify. In just such a setting, dinner this year was prepared by Chef Sylvain Portay of The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton San Francisco. The occasion was memorable.
The dinner held simultaneously to the Hearst dinner for the preponderant KCBX participants takes place at the Gardens of Avila restaurant at Sycamore Mineral Springs. No complaints from dinner guests could be heard at this resort facility, where the food was eclectic and delicious as well. It has become a favorite gathering for wine producers, guests and chefs with an incredible amount and variety of foods and wines.
The KCBX Wine Classic celebrated eight days that provided a complete sensory experience, including art, music, food, wine and dancing—you bring the shoes and the appetite. Seminars to attend for updating the palate were plentiful. This year’s accented wine was Pinot Noir. The 1999 program included Zinfandel and Zydeco at Mission Plaza, Hearst Castle Dinner, Avila Gardens Dinner, two cooking demonstrations, five vertical tastings, two terroir tastings, the barrel tastings. Dinners at wineries, golf tournament, Classic Cuvée Auction and Dinner, Champagne and Caviar tasting, a food and wine pairing symposium, Wine and Lifestyle Auction, three symposia and the Grand Tasting.
"Zinfandel and Zydeco" happens on a Monday evening to observe the New Orleans Cajun tradition of red beans and rice. Tasters tasted, diners ate and dancers dances or did all three while enjoying the cool evening and the historic San Luis Obispo Mission Plaza. Blackened chicken, red beans and rice were served by the chefs from Bon Temps Creole Café. The Zydeco Flames, playing the traditional Cajun music of Southern Louisiana that kept the dancing lively in front of the old Mission.
Different sites are used for the variety of events. Avila Beach Resort Golf Course is where golfers meet for the Vintners Golf Tournament. The Resort also hosts the Barrel Tasting and Artists’ Reception with silent auction items on display for the roaming bidders, the Classic Cuvée and Auction & Dinner, Champagne and Caviar Symposium, Wine and Lifestyle Auction and the Grand Wine Tasting.
The Cliffs oceanfront resort hotel offered California coastline beauty, sea breezes and a mountainous backdrop while hosting a cooking demonstration, four Pinot Noir tastings, and a Pinot Noir symposium and brunch.
Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort, where guests reserve hot tubs privately sequestered in the hillside, hosted the Fun Food & Winning Wine Grazing Dinner and a cooking demonstration.
Several area wineries held dinners and some local vintners conducted informal seminars in the field.
Naturally, choices among all these events, while never easy, must be made.
Since the 1990s, dining out increased immensely and the proliferation of distinctive restaurants began attracting diners, especially in international cities like D.C. In the last five years, the Washington restaurant market has been one of the most active in the country. Diners now flock to the city to sample the newest, the hottest and the best. To name just three, there’s D.C. Coast, Marcel’s and Goldoni. Selecting among the 1,400 establishments is not easy, but other safe bets include Seasons of the Four Seasons Hotel, Galileo, Kinkead’s and 1789.
D.C. COAST, The Tower Building, 1401 K Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20005, 202/216-5988
Open for just over a year, D.C. Coast is the new hot place. Chef Jeff Tunks says, "I have married the cuisines of the Chesapeake Bay (crab cakes with corn-and-pickled-okra relish) and Pacific (lobster with garlic, scallions and fresh ginger) and Gulf (black grouper with crawfish-corn maque choux) coasts."
It’s a delectable endeavor, including the generous Osso Bucco Ravioli Stuffed with Braised Veal with Marrow-filled Bne, a luscious sautéed and seared foie gras, a distinctive Mushroom-crusted Halibut, and Grilled Steaks with Quesadillas. Those in a quandary may order the Chef’s Tasting Menu for a variety. Whatever the decision, save room for Pastry Chef David Guas’ irresistible desserts: Tahitian Vanilla Bean Crème Brulee, a Chocolate Malted Milk Dome, and the piece de resistance – the luscious, delightfully light, Warm White Chocolate Macadamia Nut Brioche Pudding
SEASONS, Four Seasons Hotel, 2800 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, Washington D.C. 20007, 202/342-0444
Seasons Restaurant and the Terrace Garden both are known for award-winning cuisine. The Zagat Survey declared it "As close to perfect as can be." Certainly the dishes Chef de Cuisine Charlie Hansji prepared for me were worthy of high praise and memorable. The Roasted Spring Vegetable Terrine, Balsamic and Pepper Oils was as lovely to see as to eat. Being partial to terrines, I was treated to the Terrine of Smoked Salmon, Watercress Sauce as well. It too was delicious and had there been a third one no doubt I would have over-indulged on terrines. The Wild Mushroom Raviolis, Truffle Juice and Chive Sauce were plump and moist, and the minute filets of Veal Tenderloin with Tiny Cheese Ravioli were divinely tender with a beautiful reduction sauce. Tastes of the Risotto with Maine Shrimp, Red Pepper Sauce, and the Crispy Oriental Rockfish, Ginger Sauce convinced me that the quote was not overstated.
OSTERIA GOLDONI, 1120 20th St., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036, 202/293-1511
Consistent with the attractiveness of the restaurant and hospitality of the hosts, Chef Fabrizio and wife Ingrid Aielli, and waiters is the delicious food. Quite simply, the Aielli touch should please the most particular Italian gourmet.
The artistry of dishes represents traditional Venetian recipes as well as those with Aielli’s excellent modern touches. The Baked fillet of Chilean Sea Bass with Lobster Crust, Salsify Sauce, Peas and Saffron was a rainbow of correlated colors and flavors. Irresistible in texture and presentation also were the Homemade Pasta, Baby Artichokes, Scampi and Thyme; Roast Filet of Veal Stuffed with Quail Egg and Asparagus, and the Agnolotti of Portobello and Spinach, Ragu of Green Beans, Potato and Rosemary. For the finale, and what a finish it was, there was the pageantry of a royal presentation for the very special orato (cross between sea bass and pompano). The waiter descended the palatial staircase carrying a silver platter on which rested a puffed parchment paper. Amid a fanfare of service, during which diners in the proximity turned to observe, the parchment was opened and the fish displayed to a round of applause. Art from the kitchen was commensurate to that on the walls and equally satisfying to the Muse of the palate.
MARCEL’S, 2401 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20006
Marcel’s is a bright new French star in Washington. The handsome restaurant wastes no time in introducing guests to the kitchen. The initial vision upon entering is Chef Robert Wiedmaier at work with and surrounded by shiny copper pans. A tiled counter and elevated stage provide an enticing view and marvelous odors of what is to come.
Although Marcel’s is newly opened, March 22, 1999, Chef Wiedmaier has made clear that his classical-style dishes will remain enticing for discriminating palates. No self-respecting French restaurant would fail to offer Les Coquilles Saint-Jacques, and Supreme de Pigeon Roti and the very memorable Foie Gras. Marcel’s complied beautifully and deliciously. The representations are classic. I adore foie gras, and the generosity of the serving was unprecedented in my experience. Two large, lovely, rich, thick slices of the delicacy, perfectly sautéed in butter with that wonderful crisp fringe on the edges—how do they do that?—melted in my mouth. There were also modern touches to his menu, such as, Soft Shell Crab with Citrus Emulsion and Baby Spinach, Seared Peppered Tuna with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms and Asparagus Tips with Balsamic Reduction, and Roasted Pheasant with Caramelized Pears in a Tarragon Gastrique with Turnip Puree. With an interjection of a flavor here, a slight twist of an ingredient there, or a semblance of a spice, dishes took on a different life. It’s clear that the balancing of natural flavors with judicious seasonings has been mastered by Chef Wiedmaier non pareil.
1789 RESTAURANT, 1226 36th Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20007
For a touch of Americana decor, 1789 cannot be matched. Historic maps; Currier and Ives prints from President Washington’s inauguration; antiques boxes, bottles and silver pieces; custom-made chairs, and carved sideboards decorate the three handsome dining rooms. Voted one of "America’s Top Tables" by readers of Gourmet magazine, Georgetown’s 1789 Restaurant has won accolades from national food critics and Washingtonians alike. Freshness is one ingredient for happiness. The menu lists the produce that arrived that day by truck from farms. Some enticing items I enjoyed were the artichoke, feta and potato tart on puff pastry with lemon sauce; grilled portobello mushroom with roasted red peppers, white bean sauce and feta cheese; spinach salad with apricots, almonds, raisins and creamy Maytag blue cheese-pancetta dressing; grilled Maine lobster with mango, papaya, pea shoots and ginger-lime sauce, and roasted rack of lamb with creamy cheese potatoes and merlot sauce. At such an all-American restaurant, two desserts among the many tempters were must-be-tasted treats—fresh, sweet cherry pie with vanilla ice cream and the hot fudge sundae. I’m so glad I can never resist desserts. They were wonderful.
TRAVELER'S TIP: Travelers to Washington, D.C. may enjoy the informative fun of learning how to better operate their cameras from professional photographer David Luria who conducts a photographic safari. Check out his web site: www.washingtonphotosafari.com.
| © 1999 Sarah Jane English |
| Sarah Jane: sarahjane@sarahjanewineandfood.com |