The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 28th Edition
July 29, 1999

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(look for current releases; prices vary store to store)
Great values and great summer wines--$6 to $8

• TMV (THE MONTEREY VINEYARD) 1997 Zinfandel $7: "black cherry-blackberry, plum and peppery"
• TMV 1997 Chardonnay $7: "baked apple, lemon and butter, light vanillin oak"
• HOGUE CELLARS 1998 Johannisberg Riesling $7: "honey, peach, orange blossom, rounded, natural acidity"
• HOGUE CELLARS 1998 Gewurztraminer, $7: "well-balanced lychee, grapefruit, cinnamon and jasmine
• CALITERRA 1998 Chardonnay $8: "citrus and pear notes, vanilla and spice, toffee, enjoy with salmon"
• CALITERRA 1998 Merlot $8: "ripe plum, cherry, blackberry, balanced acidity, velvety texture, enjoy with lamb
• TRAPICHE 1998 Estate Chardonnay $7: "baked red apples, dry, fresh acidity and soft, long finish"
• TRAPICHE 1998 Estate Pinot Noir $7: "wild roses and raspberry jam, soft, light, fresh tastes, velvet texture"
• FETZER 1998 Echo Ridge Sauvignon Blanc $8: "smooth, clean, citrus and subtle herbal garden flavors"
• FETZER 1998 Johannisberg Riesling $8: "apricot, peach, honeysuckle, and ripe pear flavors
• CANYON ROAD 1998 Sauvignon Blanc $7: "grassy, grapefruit, lemon and tropical fruits, zesty natural acidity"
• CANYON ROAD 1998 Chardonnay $8: "melon, tropical fruit, vanillin oak, buttery overtones, soft and rounded"
• GEYSER PEAK 1998 Johannisberg Riesling $8: "soft, delicate, floral—received 3 gold and 2 silver medals"
• GEYSER PEAK 1998 Sauvignon Blanc $8: "gooseberry, grassy, green apple—4 gold and 1 sweepstakes awards"
• P.H. PHILLIPS 1998 Night Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Dunnigan Hills $6: "herbal and citrus flavors"

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NEWS

BROWN FORMAN Corp. and SONOMA CUTRER Vineyards have an agreement. B-F will purchase a majority of outstanding stock. CEO Brice Cutrer Jones will continue to lead the company into the new millennium with a significant equity position. More than one thousand acres of prime vineyards are included in the transaction.

FOREST GLEN has consistently enjoyed point ratings from the press in the 90s for its Chardonnay.

WINE INSTITUTE reported that U.S. wine exports, 90% from California, jumped 26% over the previous year to $537 million in 1998, shipping 72 million gallons abroad—fifth consecutive year gain.

ALLIED DOMECQ announced The Wine Spot at www.thewinespot.com.

JOHN CLEWS joined Clos du Val as Director of Winery Operations, overseeing all aspects of wine production.

SIMI has been acquired by Riverland Vineyards, the fine wine division of Canadaigua Wine Co., from LVMH.

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NEW RELEASES

• MATANZAS CREEK Winery 1996 Merlot Sonoma County $47, blends estate grown merlot with fruit from the Carneros to produce a lush, opulent wine. The final blending with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc created an elegant wine with impeccable balance, supple tannins and grace."

• MILLSREEF 1996 Sauvignon Blanc Hawkes Bay New Zealand $16: "the grapes are like none I’ve ever seen, amazing color, size, and overall quality. Partially barrel fermented lush mouthfeel and tropical fruit, hints of oak complex and creamy." New Zealand generally produces excellent sauvignon blanc grapes and, is truly a family business: Paddy Preston, founder/winemaker; Tim Preston, production manager; Warren Preston, marketing manager; Melissa Preston, administrative manager.

• LUNA 1997 Sangiovese $18: Luna Vineyards was founded in 1995 by George Vare and Mike Moon—both have been presidents of major California wineries and important influences in the wine industry since the mid-1960s. They purchased a Napa Valley winery to produce Italian varietals. They replanted the vineyards and remodeled the winery completely modernizing it. Winemaker John Koongsgaard states the philosophy: "90% of winemaking is in the vineyard. We have the minimalist approach. Let the wine be what it is." This wine was co-fermented with 10% merlot and 5% syrah, had 35 days extended maceration, and aged in 20% new French oak for one year. It is unfined and unfiltered. Enjoy!

• QUIVIRA 1998 Zinfandel Dry Creek $17.50: "The wine combines the ripe fruit flavors of the vintage with our approachable style. This may prove to be our best Zinfandel yet," Winemaker Grady Wann.

• ERRAZURIZ 1997 Wild Ferment Chardonnay $20:"musk, yeast and bread, red cherry, sweet onion, age five years."
• ERRAZURIZ 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon $9: "small intense berries, ripe cherry, sweet tannins, will age 5 years.

• BYRON 1996 Estate Chardonnay $32: "crisp apple, pear, hazelnut and hint of citrus, complex and opulent."
• BYRON 1996 Estate Pinot Noir $40: "red cherry and spice, rose petal and lavender, silky finish."
• BYRON 1997 Chardonnay $19: "white peach and pear, backdrop of oak, butter and honey."

• RODNEY STRONG 1998 Charlotte’s Estate Sauvignon Blanc $10: "tropical and citrus notes, melon and hay, lush, creamy texture, passion fruit, pineapple, citrus flavors. Enjoy with grilled halibut, oysters Rockefeller."
• RODNEY STRONG 1997 Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay $16: "lemon cream, nectarine, pear, tropical and mineral touches, spicy vanilla, enjoy with baked chicken, fresh sage and rosemary mahi mahi."
• RODNEY STRONG 1997 Russian River Pinot Noir $16: "rose petal, cherry, black pepper gaminess, integrated oak, enjoy with roasted meats, salmon or grilled chicken."

• CAMPANILE 1998 Pinot Grigio $11: "crisp citrus aromas and flavors, quince, apple, pear, spice, melon."

• SIMI 1997 Sauvignon Blanc $13: "rounded with spicy notes."
• SIMI 1997 Chardonnay Sonoma $19: "complex and crisp."

• SHAFER 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon $38: "Stags Leap District dominates this blend showing rich fruit and soft tannins, dense, dark wines loaded with blackberry and spicy oak."

• PAUL JABOULET 1996 Crozes Hermitage "Les Jalets" $13.50: "Black currants, black cherry and raspberry, pepper and liquorice, rounded and delicate acidity, supple with fleshy tannins-enjoy with cold and grilled meats."
• PAUL JABOULET 1997 Muscats de Beaumes-de-Venise $27: "Perfumy, fresh, ripe peach and apricot, rich, powerful and full, long sweet finish—enjoy as aperitif or with foie gras and fruit sorbets"
• PAUL JABOULET 1997 Tavel "l’Espiegle" $16: "light aromas of pear, peach and small red fruits, lively freshness, fine tannic structure—enjoy with spicy exotic dishes and Provençale cuisine"

• CHATEAU MIGUEL 1998 Saint Chinian Rose Syrah $9: "fresh taste of red fruits with dry finish"

• GUENOC 1997 Genevieve Magoon Reserve Chardonnay, Guenoc Valley $25: "delicate fruit laced with pear, apples, pineapple and tropical spices, balanced and elegant, enjoy with lobster bisque, crap soufflé, turkey"
• GUENOC 1997 Genevieve Magoon Reserve Unfiltered Chardonnay, Guenoc $30: "rich, delicate, spicy apples and pears, creamy, elegant, silky texture, enjoy with avocado, clams, mussels in garlic, creamy tortellini, rich sauces"
• GUENOC 1997 Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast $13.50: "fresh citrus and honey, pineapple, hint of walnut, enjoy with oysters, sashimi, creamy pasta with herbs, rosemary chicken"
• GUENOC 1996 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon $16.50: "smoky overtones, bouquet of berries, mint, cedar, nuances of roses, mint, vanilla and cherry pie, enjoy with wild mushrooms in onions and garlic, pasta sauces with herbs"
• GUENOC 1998 Sauvignon Blanc California $11.50: "bright, fresh, saucy wine, perfumy apple and strawberry with lingering citrus finish, enjoy poached bass, creamy pasta with lemon thyme"

• ST. SUPERY 1998 Moscato $13: "rich, perfumed, powerful yet elegant, stewed apricots, peaches, sweet and luscious"

• HANDLEY 1996 Pinot Noir Estatae Reserve, Anderson Valley $28: "aromas of cherry, leather, berries and spice precede silky chocolate and cherry flavors with moderate tannins drink over next 2 to 5 years"
• HANDLEY 1997 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc $15: "luscious sweet nectar balanced by natural crispness, enjoy with blue cheese and toasted nuts, desserts made with apricots and pears"
• HANDLEY 1997 Pinot Mystère Meunier, Anderson Valley $18: "black cherry and berry, earthy background, mushroom and spice, medium tannins, enjoy with light meats, smoked or roasted fowl"
• HANDLEY 1997 Chardonnay, Handley Vineyard, Dry Creek $16: "vanilla, tropical fruit, pear, and spice combine to give wine vibrance and liveliness, enjoy with lightly spicy Caribbean seafood curries"

• FETZER 1998 Sundial Chardonnay $9: "rich melon, pineapple, lemon flavors, toasty vanilla spice hints"

• HOGUE CELLARS 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Select $15: "boysenberry, chocolate mint, black olive"

• VENEZIA 1997 Bianco Nuovo White Meritage $20: "pear and citrus character, lemon and lime, melons and mineral, toasty vanillin oak, enjoy with creamy sauces and white-fleshed fish"
• VENEZIA 1997 Sangiovese Nuovo Mondo $24: "red fruit character, raspberry, cherry, elements of pepper and spice, toasty vanillin oak, soft rounded finish, elegant"

• P.H.PHILLIPS 1998 Night Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Dunnigan Hills $6: "herbal and citrus flavors"

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ARGENTINA

Argentina’s first grapevines were planted by Spanish conquistadors in 1554 in northern Santiago del Estero. It was their move to Mendoza and San Juan that marked the real beginnings of the Argentine wine industry. Fearing competition, Spain tried to curb production through taxation and cultivation restrictions. Clandestine operation, however, continued. While 1816 marked its independence from Spain, Argentina’s next quantum leap came in 1853 with the first School of Agriculture. Frenchman Don Miguel Pouget taught modern cultivation techniques and imported noble rootstock. The arrival of the railroad and new irrigation system benefited the wine industry in 1899.

Throughout this century, the popularity of Argentinean wines has continued, today ranking third in the world per capita consumption. Leading the industry is the CATENA family. Their roots lie in Italy where Nicola Catena was born, a son of vineyard workers. In search of his own land, he left for the New World at the end of the 19^th century and settled in Mendoza. He planted the family’s first vines and eventually his eldest son, Domingo, took responsibility for the business. Thrifty, industrious and savvy marketers, the Catenas steadily increased their holdings. In 1963, Domingo’s eldest son, Nicolàs, took over the family business and was joined by his brother Jorge after his graduation from U.C. Davis. In 1983, Nicolàs visited Napa Valley and the Robert Mondavi Winery.

"I had not really understood what the Californians were doing until I visited the Mondavi operation, saw their investment in research and became truly inspired," Nicolàs says. "I thought, why not try this in Mendoza! I always think of that visit as the magic moment that changed my whole concept of quality winemaking. In Argentina, the concept that less was actually more was revolutionary. Traditionally, farmers wanted big crops and, suddenly, we began preaching about stressing the vines to produce low yields."

The rest is history. In 1991, Nicolàs sent his first releases to the U.S.—where wine critics lavished their praise. With his expertise in irrigation management, terroir mapping and high-altitude farming, Nicolas Catena looks forward to leading this emerging region into the next millenium.

• CATENA 1997 Estate Bottled Chardonnay $18: "aromas of citrus, quince, apricot, full and round, ripe tropical fruit and nuances of vanilla and toast."
• CATENA 1996 Estate Bottled Malbec $20: "2,300 vines/acre, excellent land drainage, three-wire trellis, ideal soil and climate, meticulous pruning, irrigation and canopy management, low yields and small berries, produce a wine with extremely concentrated flavors and round, velvety tannins."
• Catena’s ALAMOS RIDGE 1997 Malbec $12: "only free-run juice is used, plum, black cherry, full and rounded, rich, soft-sweet tannins."
• Catena’S ALAMOS RIDGE 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon $12: "only free-run juice is used, red-stone-fruits laced with hazelnut and nuances of cedar, chocolate, medium to full-bodied with mature tannins."

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Beringer Luncheon at Si Bon

Si Bon Chef/owner Peter O’Brien coordinated with Beringer Chef Jerry Comfort for a delightful luncheon and special tasting of a new line of Beringer wines to be introduced this fall—BERINGER FOUNDERS’ ESTATE. Designed for versatile food-loving, $9 to $11 wine shoppers, these new wines do so superbly. Crafted by Beringer Winemaker Ed Sbragia, the wines are the beautifully structured and flavored sort that value seeking wine enthusiasts often search for in vain. Search no further. I can praise them unabashedly--and, of course, the delicious food as well. Chefs Peter and Jerry melded sweet and sour flavors of the foods and wines to perfection.

"Wine and food pairing is not really a question of what wine ‘goes’ with what food—like the old rule of red wine with beef, white wine with fish," explains Comfort. "In our work at the winery, we’ve seen over and over again that the key question is whether the wine reacts—changes in flavor—when tasted with certain flavors in foods that we eat a lot of today—lemon and tomato sauces, spicy chilis, peanut sauce in Thai foods or the anchovies in Caesar salads and pizza. Ed’s new line of wines are designed to fill the need for ‘food friendly’ wines—reflecting the grapes distinctive fruit with soft tannins. When paired with this style—foods with the range and intensity of flavors that Americans now enjoy at home and in restaurants—the assertive foods need less assertive, less complex wines. With this simpler style, versatility and value go hand in hand."

Beringer Founders’ Estate wines come from 10,500 acres of prime coastal vineyards controlled by Beringer Wine Estates, as well as from growers with whom Beringer has done business for many years. The wines are made using traditional winemaking techniques—barrel fermentation, aging in seasoned French and American oak, lees stirring, malolactic fermentation—under Ed’s watchful eye.

"This line is the result of years of work and planning on the part of our winemaking and vineyard teams," says Sbragia, who has made Beringer wines for over 20 years. "My staff and I are given the prime coastal region grapes we need to make these fine varietal wines with a California appellation. At harvest we now have multiple possibilities and incredible opportunities to select and blend the lots of grapes for these new wines."

We enjoyed the Cabernet Sauvignon $11, Chardonnay $10, Merlot $11 and Sauvignon Blanc $9. Be on the lookout for the delicious, really well-priced wines. You’ll be back for more.

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Cafaro Luncheon at Si Bon

I’m so glad Joe Cafaro decided to make wines. He doesn’t make much—2700 cases. And he only makes two wines—CAFARO Cabernet Sauvignon and CAFARO Merlot. But that’s a nice number because they are both perfection.

Joe says CAFARO wines are his personal statement. "It is my intention to make elegant, balanced wines of classic proportions and grace that age well and, better still, drink well."

The production is 1300 cases of CAFARO Cabernet Sauvignon and 1400 cases of CAFARO Merlot. Before founding his own winery, Joe worked at Chappellet, Keenan and Acacia wineries and has been a consultant to several since 1985.

"I consider myself lucky to have worked in the Napa Valley for 30 years," Joe remarks. "I know where to find the types of grapes I need to blend into wines of depth and complexity. I purchase all my grapes from four sources; for example, Truchard in Los Carneros—low vigor and cool climates; Schwieger Vineyard and Richard’s Vineyard at the top of Spring Mountain—rocky, shallow soils curtail yields for concentrated, strong in body, firmly tannic and richly colored grapes; and our vineyard, newly planted, in Stags’ Leap."

Joe considers his winemaking traditional and modern; that is, pumping the fermenting juice over the cap for high extraction and fermenting in stainless steel to control temperatures. The wines go through malolactic, have two rackings, and are placed in small French oak (50% new) and then bottled in midsummer—two years after harvest. Both wines are bottle aged an additional year prior to release.

Because much of the Cabernet fruit comes from hillside vineyards, the wine has great depth of character and intensity. The rich blackberry and cherry fruit qualities are nicely complemented by a spiciness from the French oak.

CAFARO Merlot is bright with lively fruit, intense flavors, a firm structure and a soft herbal quality. It is slightly lighter than the Cabernet with more pronounced fruitiness.

Both wines are complex with integrated fruit and sweet tannins and a beautiful balance.

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The Hess Collection Dinner at Jeffery's

HESS Winemaker Stephanie Putnam and PR Director Jean Jacoté orchestrated their lovely THE HESS COLLECTION, HESS SELECT, and Hess Collection New World Wines with a superb dinner at Jeffrey’s. Chef David Garrido really outdid himself on this marvelous repast (please see below).

Stephanie is bright, articulate and enthusiastic. She assumed the job as winemaker in November 1997 when Randle Johnson, former winemaker since 1983, became Vice President, Director of Winemaking.

Two thousand feet above Napa Valley, Mount Veeder's rocky soils combine with ocean-cooled breezes to help grow the powerful, concentrated grapes that define THE HESS COLLECTION’s mountain wines.

"These vineyards that are at the heart of THE HESS COLLECTIONS’ winemaking excellence," Stephanie says, "and the cornerstone of our winemaking philosophy. Our wines reflect the unique character of the powerful mountain grapes grown on our 280 acres of steep, austere and volcanic slopes of Mount Veeder."

HESS SELECT has immediate appeal at an exceptional value. The 350 acre vineyard in the Pinnacles area of Monterey County provides the backbone fruit for the Hess Select philosophy. Grapes also are blended from some of California’s greatest wine regions to emphasize the fresh, true varietal fruit flavors of this early maturing wine.

The Hess Collection New World Wines include some extraordinary properties. Donald Hess said the criteria for selection are family owned wineries with estate vineyards, people who strive for top quality wines and a willingness to experiment with emerging technology.

"We want to provide these smaller family wineries with the vehicle to gain high-quality, targeted distribution in America and Canada, " Hess said, "and we want to be global partners for the future."

We tasted several offerings from the New World Wines along with the Hess properties and it made a delicious tasting indeed. Everything was top quality.

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Sonoma Cutrer Luncheon at Mirabelle

Winemaker Terry Adams makes three delicious SONOMA CUTRER Chardonnays, exclusively. In 1992, the Grand Cru Program was introduced for the Les Pierres and The Cutrer Vineyards. "We produce three wines from 100 % of our five vineyards," he says. "We were a vineyard company before we were a wine company. We let the vineyard speak through the wine. We minimize oxidation by minimum handling. We remove the second crop before harvest, pick and remove the leaves, stems, moldy grapes, rocks, snakes and whatever shouldn’t be there and press whole clusters that are cooled."

It clearly works. The Wall Street Journal "Tastings" by Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher reported, "Among white wines, there’s no contest between the best from California and French competitors—all the French Burgundies fell by the wayside, leaving the American wines on top. ‘We were amazed by the No. 1 wine—calling it big, fruity nose, elegant and buttery. Complex and fascinating. Sensational. Classy and elegant, Muscular and lean, Big, yet with real restraint.’ Along with a whole bunch of wines tht were expensive and hard to find, and it turned out to be . . . Sonoma Cutrer 1995 Russian River Ranch, $23. It is perennially one of the most popular wines ordered at restaurants." Along with Sonoma Cutrer ranking in the "delicious" and/or "delicious/very good" categories, were BERINGER, PEZZI KING, and SILVERADO. Pretty rarified company. I keep telling y’all that California grows the best wines around anywhere. You can find the best wines in your own back yard.