The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 26th Edition
May 15, 1999

TOP PICKS FOR THE MONTH
(prices vary store to store)

Chardonnay:

• ’96 Stonestreet, Sonoma $25
• Handley, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, $16
• ’96 Gallo of Sonoma, Laguna Ranch, Sonoma, $20
• ’96 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa, $18
• Stags’ Leap, Napa, $21
• ’98 Lindemans Bin 65, Australia, $7.50.

Semillon-Chardonnay:

• ‘97 Penfolds Koonunga Hill, Australia, $12

Shiraz:

• ’96 Cape Mentelle, Australia, $18
• ’96 Geyser Peak, Sonoma, $15
• ’96 Penfolds Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia, $21
• ’96 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia, $9
• ’96 Lindemans, Australian $15

Sauvignon Blanc:

• ’97 Lindemans Bin 95, Australia, $7.50

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ATLAS PEAK, CLOS du BOIS & WILLIAM HILL
Principals featured at SJE Tasting

ATLAS PEAK Winemaker John Falcones and Public Relations Director George Rose brought Allied Domneq wines for an SJE tasting group: five wines each from Atlas Peak, William Hill and Clos du Bois. A chorus of raves rounded the table for each wine, and rightfully so. They were delicious.

ATLAS PEAK Vineyards is a collaborative effort between Allied Domneq Wines, USA, and Piero Antinori of Italy, and America’s leading producer of SANGIOVESE, Tuscany’s famous red wine. The vineyards, 500 acres, are located in the Napa Valley’s Atlas Peak AVA, 1450 to 1800 feet above sea level in the Vaca Mountain Range. The property has 35,000 sq.ft. of tunneled caves into the volcanic cliffs.

• 1996 ATLAS PEAK Sangiovese, $14; rich plum and cranberry, spicy oak, vanilla, good acidity.
• 1996 ATLAS PEAK Reserve Sangiovese, $28: boysenberry, cherry, buttery oak, licorice, tannins, full-body.
• 1997 ATLAS PEAK Chardonnay, $16: clean, well-balanced, citrus, nice acidity, toasty oak, mineral.
• 1995 ATLAS PEAK Cabernet Sauvignon, $18: nutmeg, anise, intense cherry, black currents, soft tannins.
• 1995 ATLAS PEAK Consenso, Cabernet Sauvignon, $28: dark plum, cherry, chocolate, coffee, mint, oak on finish.

The group was delighted—especially for the opportunity to taste the expressions of American Sangiovese. John used all his Italian enthusiasm and gesticulations to inform and entertain us admirably.

CLOS du BOIS, named "Winery of the Year, 1998," consistently scores high in magazines that review wines. Briarcrest. Marlstone and Winemaker’s Reserves regularly score 90s. Clos du Bois is also America’s best-selling Sonoma County wine brand and one of the top five premium Chardonnay producers in America.

The 1998 grape shortage probably means higher prices, but Clos du Bois promises to work closely in its vineyards (590 acres in Alexander Valley) and with growers to keep prices reasonable. Winemaker Margaret Davenport makes four tiers of wines (please see related story). Wines below are Alexander Valley Selections.

• 1996 CLOS du BOIS Chardonnay, $14: apples, pears, peach, citrus, crisp, clean, toasty oak.
• 1996 CLOS du BOIS Merlot, $17: ripe cherry and blueberry, layered plum-dark-fruit flavors, oak
• 1996 CLOS du BOIS Shiraz, $16: rich black cherry, black pepper spiciness, luscious, smooth finish.
• 1996 CLOS du BOIS Cabernet Sauvignon, $17: velvety rich, balanced, blackberry, vanilla, toasty oak.
• 1995 CLOS du BOIS Cabernet Sauvignon, $17: soft tannins, spicy complexity, great structure, berries.

WILLIAM HILL Winery also belongs to Allied Domneq. Jill Davis, previously at Buena Vista, makes the wines and has brought her years of expertise to the property. "William Hill is just the size to allow me to get back to the kind of winemaking that I love," says Davis. "I have a superb selection of Napa hillside grapes, all of the winemaking tools a winemaker could want, and a skilled and dedicated production staff. I’m realizing my life-long goal of producing delicious, complex and stylish wines--wine that I have my hands on from start to finish."

• 1997 WILLIAM HILL Reserve Chardonnay, $20: rich, smooth, tropical fruits and spice flavors.
• 1995 WILLIAM HILL Merlot, $17: supple, rich, blackberry, raspberry, oak hints.
• 1996 WILLIAM HILL Cabernet Sauvignon, $15: cassis, currant, raspberry aromas, soft tannins, long finish.
• 1995 WILLIAM HILL Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, $30: ripe, blackberry, cherries, hint of oak, balanced.

John and George were warmly received and appreciated. We hope you‘ll be back.

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NEWS

ANNA MOLLER-RACKE was promoted to Vice President of Vineyard Operations for Buena Vista.

ARCHIE McLAREN, chairman of the Edna Valley Arroya Grande Valley Vintners Association, heads the new team of staff members: Office Manager GAIL SANDHAM, Press Relations Coordinator Kathy Marcks Hardesty, Culinary Coordinator Peta Rimington.

ACACIA purchased the 50-acre Martinez property in the Carneros. "We’ve had our eye on that property since Acacia was founded 20 years ago," said Mike Richmond, general manager and winemaker. "We’ll use our own water resources to irrigate the undeveloped, prime vineyard land."

THE HESS COLLECTION has restructured the winemaking department. RANDLE JOHNSON will become Vice-President, Winemaking, Strategic Planning; DAVE GUFFY, formerly at Cambria, will be Director of Winemaking, and STEPHANIE PUTNAM remains Winemaker.

SANDRA FLANDERS has joined Sutter Home as Senior Manager, Public Relations.

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NEW RELEASES

SHAFER 1997 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay $35 "is concentrated with beautiful acidity and great intensity of fruit, showing wonderful pineapple flavors." This Chardonnay remains one of my favorites.

CARMENET Winemaker Jeff Baker tells me the last two years marked the beginning of a significant transition in the scope of winemaking ambitions, precipitated by the disastrous 1996 wildfire. Now they’re replanted with new rootstocks, trellising, clones and spacing. The millennium will celebrate the first harvest from these new vines.

• 1997 CARMENET Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 70% Semillon 30% Edna Valley $16:"melon, hay citrus, herbs, soft acidity, ripe figs, pair with spiced, herbal and peppered dishes, oysters, grilled fish."
• 1997 CARMENET Chardonnay Sangiacomo Vineyard, Carneros, Sonoma $18: "complex, tropical fruit, pear and spice, full and rich, long crisp finish."
• 1995 CARMENET Meritage Moon Mountain Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 79% Cabernet Franc 19% Petit Verdot 2%, $40: "intense cassis, cloves, cedar, vanilla, concentrated, rich, jammy berry fruit, sweet firm tannins, lingering aftertaste—drink next three to five years."

• CANOE RIDGE 1997 Chardonnay Columbia Valley $12.50: "aromatic Asian pear, green guava and white peach layered with honeyed spice, balanced long finish, pair with grilled halibut, tuna salad, three cheese ravioli.
• CANOE RIDGE 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley $25: "big fruit concentration, great body, richness and depth due to high stress and nature’s small crop."

• PARDUCCI 1997 Chardonnay Mendocino Vyd Select: "bright fruit of pear, apple, light touch oak, crisp finish."

  

• QUIVIRA 1997 Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley $11: "French oak plays a supporting role to the forward, citrus, and melon character, Semillon adds dimension and fullness."
• QUIVIRA 1997 Dry Creek Cuvée, $13: "harmonious, four varietals combined for a zesty, berry foundation, and some spicy French oak.

• KING ESTATE 1997 Pinot Gris, Oregon $13: "aromas of melon, peach, passion fruit, hints of guava and floral spice, nectarine and banana, crisp and excellent acid balance."
• KING ESTATE 1997 Reserve Pinot Gris, Oregon $18: "orange blossom, tropical fruits, ripe fig, and vanilla spice, smooth, complex and well balanced."
• KING ESTATE 1996 Chardonnay, Oregon, complex aromas of pineapple, peach, apricot, intertwined with spice, oak-clove, and nutmeg, rounded, long, clean finish."
• KING ESTATE 1996 Reserve Chardonnay, Oregon $18: "tropical fruits, floral aromas, ripe banana, pineapple, lavender, vanilla bean and butter, toasty oak great acid-balance."

• BALBI Vineyard 1997 Malbec, Argentina $13: "the signature varietal of Argentina."

• MIRASSOU 1997 Family Selection Pinot Blanc $11: "With this release, Mirassou celebrates 50 years of Pinot Blanc. In 1947, fourth generation members Ed and Norb Mirassou first planted the grape at their Home Vineyard in Santa Clara Valley. When Fifth generation member Peter Mirassou pioneered Monterey County viticulture in 1961, Pinot Blanc was one of the first varietals planted at Mission Vineyard near Soledad. Sixth generation members Heather, Mark and David Mirassou will be promoting the product throughout the country this year.

• DELAS FRERES 1996 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette $46: "perfumed, blackberry, black currant, raspberry hints, tobacco, bell pepper, mint, elegant tannins, complex long-lived."
• DELAS FRERES 1996 Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Les Calcerniers $27: "complex nose, spice, nutmeg, leather, rich red fruit, full-bodied, concentrated flavors, good tannins—pair with hearty stews, game, strong cheeses, red meats."
• DELAS FRERES 1997 Côtes-du-Ventoux $7.50: "ripe plum, soft tannins, and silky roundness."
• DELAS FRERES 1996 Crozes Heritage Les Launes Blanc $15: "floral nose, hints of hay, peach, apricot, rich fruit flavors, buttery tones and light oak, medium body."
• DELAS FRERES 1997 Côtes du Rhone St. Esprit Blanc $9: "delicate, fruity bouquet, balance."

• St. SUPERY 1998 Sauvignon Blanc $12: "lime, grapefruit, crisply clean, fresh and rich, ripe and filling."
• St. SUPERY 1997 Merlot $18.50: "ripe berry, toast, vanilla, cassis, round mid palate, licorice finish."

• PRESTON 1997 Faux $11: "fragrant black cherries, allspice, black pepper, spiced peaches, round and soft, drink 2 to 6 years from vintage."
• PRESTON 1996 Mourvèdre $20: "spicy, floral, fruity notes, leather background, full texture, ripe tannins, drink 2 to 8 years from bottling."
• PRESTON 1997 Syrah $17.50: "ripe spicy aromas of berries, plums, round and full, nice structure and tannins, drink 2 to 6 years from vintage."

MIKE GRGICH has released 1,050 cases of his special, gold medal winning Yountville Selection 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a big, dark, highly extracted, powerful wine that has layers of seamlessly complex flavors woven together. It’s 100% cabernet sauvignon from the estate vineyard in Yountville.

• GRGICH HILLS 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection $85: "sweet ripe fruit, ripe plums, blackberry and cherry, soft and mouth-coating tannins, great structure—cellar for 5 to 10 years."
• GRGICH HILLS 1996 Zinfandel, Sonoma County $20. Mike Grgich says, "At Grgich Hills we’ve crafted our special style of Zinfandel that begins in the vineyard with older Sonoma County vines that yield a small crop of excellent grapes. Inhale the heady aromas of ripe raspberry fruit and taste the pure, natural pleasure of tangy raspberry, spicy oak, with rich soft tannins and a long satisfying finish."
• GRGICH HILLS 1995 Violetta Late Harvest $40 (375 ml). Mike Grgich says, "It isn’t possible to produce a dessert wine like our popular Violetta every year, but we could in 1995. It is intense orange blossoms mingled with peach, apricot and a kiss of botrytis. The flavors remind of orange marmalade and apricot jam with good acidity, well balanced and harmonious."

• BONTERRA 1996 North Coast Merlot $14: "rich cherry, cola, berry, hints of toasty-vanilla oak—pair with herb or peppered steaks, hearty stews and tomato-sauced pastas."
• BONTERRA 1996 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon $13: "hints of pepper, ripe cherry, cedar and vanilla spice—pair with grilled, broiled fish and shellfish, chicken, duck game hens or a pork roast."
• BONTERRA 1997 Chardonnay $11: "creamy apple, tropical and citrus fruits, delicate vanilla and butterscotch—pair with sea bass, halibut, chicken and creamy pastas and pork loin."

• HOGUE Winemaker David Forsyth says that consistency in quality and style is a primary goal in Hogue Fruit Forward category of wines. "We want delicious, good-value wines, consistent vintage after vintage, and for consumers, to have future vintages that meet or exceed expectations."
• HOGUE 1997 Chardonnay $9: "fresh fruit flavors, ripe pear, apple, sweet vanilla and toast, melon, fig, and light touch of oak—pair with salads, poultry and fish dishes—especially yellow-fin tuna."
• HOGUE 1997 Cabernet-Merlot $9: "raspberry, vanilla, oak, good weight and structure, slight bramble and herbal notes, moderate complexity—pair with pastas, stuffed peppers,, herbed chicken dishes."
• HOGUE 1998 Chenin Blanc $7: "aromas of pear, peach, apricot, ripe melon, good balance, sound structure—pair with sushi or fish tacos."
• HOGUE 1998 Late Harvest Riesling $8: "rich, viscous, fried orange peel, cinnamon and clove, balanced acidity/sweetness, pair with poached pears, apples and sharp cheddar cheese."
• HOGUE 1997 Semillon-Chardonnay $8: "melon, honey, lime, mint, rounded and crisp, fig, honeysuckle, pair with shellfish, steamed clams, and crab."
• HOGUE 1997 Chardonnay Barrel Select $14: "complex pear, vanilla, cream, toast, white peach and fresh butter, pair with goat cheese, chicken and duck."
• HOGUE 1996 Merlot Barrel Select $15: "medium weight and structure, raspberry, cherry, tobacco, blueberry, mint cassis and chocolate, pair with braised sirloin tips, hickory-smoked ham, grilled seafood.

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WINES from CAMBRIA Estate and the FOXEN VINEYARDS at Sullivan’s

Jenny Williamson and Dick Doré and I dined well on their wines—Cambria Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah and Foxen Vineyards Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon respectively--with the excellent fare at Sullivan’s—everything here is just the best, especially the steaks! They were in Austin with the Santa Barbara Country Vintner’s Association and I’m pleased they chose our fair city to showcase the fine products from beautiful Santa Barbara. CAMBRIA, established in 1986 by Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke, is part of the original Tepusquet Vineyard—one of the first commercial vineyards in Santa Barbara (1971). Cambria Chardonnay, Katherine’s Vineyard shows lush, ripe pineapple, herbal hints and mango. Cambria Pinot Noir, Julia’s Vineyard, is delightfully fruit and spice filled, cherry, nutmeg, cola and nicely textured. Cambria Syrah, Tepusquet, is a rich, plummy, blueberry-highlighted wine that’s wonderfully textured. FOXEN Vineyards, Santa Barbara 1987, is a partnership of Dick Doré, manager, and Bill Wathen—who buys the grapes. They also have a small vineyard and produce excellent Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The case production is small and is intended to stay that about—about 4,000.

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FAR NIENTE Luncheon at Si Bon

Partner Larry Maguire and I enjoyed the Far Niente Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Dolce with the excellent food served at Si Bon (please see 24th Newsletter). Larry and I have shared so many delicious bottles of FAR NIENTE over excellent meals in Austin that I'm always surprised that the current one can be as good or better than the previous one. It is due in no small part to his good company. There are, Larry told me, some new stirrings in the old Oakville territory. "We've been evaluating and looking ahead and have asked ourselves if we're staying current," Larry said. "Are we the winery we want to be? Should we be considering single vineyard designations, and, perhaps, other varietals? We have experimented with other varietals and the conclusions lead us to another winery. The new winery will focus on single vineyards only. We'll release a Merlot and a Zinfandel in the year 2000. We bought 43 acres across from the Mondavi Winery in Oakville for a 50,000-case winery. The new winery name will be an extension of our label, Nickel & Nickel--a name that we thought was appropriate. Our first wine will be a Nickel & Nickel Merlot from the Soscal Ranch in southern Napa. There are five single vineyards that will be crushed in 1999 for the Merlot. The label, similar to our current one, will identify Far Niente on the back. An 1890 farmhouse will be restored for the Nickel & Nickel hospitality center. Zinfandel will come from Dry Creek Valley, the Ponzo Vineyard."

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LONGORIA Luncheon at Four Seasons

Rick Longoria made wines at Gainey Vineyards before striking out on his own in 1997. He makes 3000 cases of wine: Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, buying all grapes at the present time but has planted eight acres, 1360 vines per A., of his own. "Every wine I make is made because I have the chance to buy good grapes," Rick says. His chances have been very good indeed, judging by the Longoria Wines we tasted.

• 1997 Chardonnay: nice acidity, crisp, fresh, rounded, mellow, medium-bodied, hint of oak.
• 1996 Blues Cuvée Cabernet Franc: (Rick made the first Cab Franc that was produced in Santa Barbara County when he was winemaker at Gainey—he’s kept all his skills) perfumy, rich and rounded, nicely textured.
• 1996 Merlot: sweet oak, vanilla, white chocolate and multiple red berries.

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PEZZI KING Luncheon at Shoreline Grill

This Dry Creek Valley winery was a new one to me. It will not be a secret any longer. The wines are beautifully crafted and are just beginning to be shipped to Texas. They will definitely capture your palate.

Tom Rozner and I tasted through the wonderful expressions of PEZZI KING wines. The Fumé Blanc and Chardonnay both complimented my delicious Caesar Salad and everything went well with the excellent Parmesan Crusted Chicken. These are small case productions and will be well worth a search.

• PEZZI KING 1997 Fumé Blanc $15: partially (20%) barrel fermented with oak disguised so fruit dominates--bright, crisp, lime and citrus flavors, floral and mellow—excellent food wine (3000 cases).
• PEZZI KING 1997 Chardonnay $22 comes from perfectly ripe grapes harvested in Russian River, Dry Creek and Sonoma Valleys, 60% barrel fermented (2/3s new oak) aromas and flavors of mineral, butter, citrus, medium-bodied, mellow, a balanced and elegant wine (3600 cases).
• PEZZI KING 1996 Merlot $27 comes from two hillsides, low-yielding, Dry Creek vineyards which are concentrated and have intense fruit extraction—plumy, dried fruits, approachable, blackberry, currants and spiciness, integrated tannins and well structured (1100 cases).
• PEZZI KING 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon $28, Dry Creek Valley hillsides; ripe, rich, clean fruit, berries, cassis, vanilla and cedar, deliciously complex, interesting to drink with plenty of fruit (3200 cases).

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CHALONE, INC. WINE GROUPS Dinner at Brio Vista

Winemaker Mike Richmond, back home at Acacia, visited Austin with Chalone Inc.’s Scott Woodward for a delicious tasting of wines and food from Stewart Scruggs kitchen at Brio Vista.

Mike was at Carmenet in 1996 when a wildfire struck the vineyards, destroying over half the Moon Mountain Estate. He remarked how so many of the Sonoma County producers came to their aid, unsolicited, willing to part with the limited crops of that year so Carmenet could bottle some wine. Mike explained that 20-years knowledge was used to replant the Carmenet hillsides with improved rootstock so Winemaker Jeff Baker could mix clones and varieties, closer vines and advanced trellising systems. The first harvest of these opportunities is 2000.

• 1997 CARMENET Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 70% Semillon 30% Edna Valley $16:"melon, hay citrus, herbs, soft acidity, ripe figs, pair with spiced, herbal and peppered dishes, oysters, grilled fish."
• 1997 CARMENET Chardonnay Sangiacomo Vineyard, Carneros, Sonoma $18: "complex, tropical fruit, pear and spice, full and rich, long crisp finish."
• 1995 CARMENET Meritage Moon Mountain Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 79% Cabernet Franc 19% Petit Verdot 2%, $40: "intense cassis, cloves, cedar, vanilla, concentrated, rich, jammy berry fruit, sweet firm tannins, lingering aftertaste—drink next three to five years."

CHALONE Group Winemaker’s Dinner

Aperitif with 1997 Chateau Paradis, Bordeaux

First Course
Puree of Celery Root Soup, 1997 Carmenet Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, Paragon Vineyard

Second Course
Five Spice Risotto with Duck Confit and Raddichio, 1995 Chalone Pinot Blanc

Third Course
Seared Diver Scallops in Mango Broth, 1997 Acacia Chardonnay, Carneros

Fourth Course
Roasted Duck Breast with Arugula and Blood Orange, 1997 Acacia Pinot Noir, Carneros

Fifth Course
Rack of Lamb, Wild Mushroom-Beet Reduction, 1995 Carmenet Moon Mountain Reserve Meritage

Sixth Course
Stilton Cheese Cake with Fig and Citrus Reduction, 1995 Carmenet Copa de Morado Zinfandel Port

Stewart has definitely found a home in this kitchen—expressing his creations beautifully.

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