The SJE Newsletter: 25th Edition

Americain Sangiovese: 1996 Martin Brothers Il Palio, Central Coast, $12; 1996 PEPI, Two Heart Canopy, Napa, $18; 1996 Atlas Peak Reserve, Napa Valley, $30; 1996 Valley of the Moon, Sonoma County, $25

Chardonnay: ‘97 Sonoma Cutrer Les Pierres $25; ‘97 Gato Blanco, Chile $6; ‘97 Terra Nova, Chile, $7.50

I had a great visit to Sonoma County. MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER Benchland Wine Estate, GALLO-SONOMA, FERRARI-CARANO, CLOS du BOIS, J Sparkling Wine, KENDALL-JACKSON Wine Center and KORBEL were the facilities I visited in northern Sonoma and BUENA VISTA, HAYWOOD, and SEBASTIANI were visited in southern Sonoma. I love tasting the latest and greatest and certainly did so everywhere I visited.

I had not visited MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER in several years and was delighted with all that’s happening there-- including the fact that Winemaker Fred Payne is making even more luscious wines, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, but also has new wines such as Syrah and Pinot Blanc. Owner Jacques Schlulmberger and Winemaker Fred Payne gave me a thorough update. We tasted through the current wines, new varietals, foreign wines they’re marketing, and toured soon-to-be-planted vineyards and viewed older ones. Fred and this property produce marvelous wines across the board and they exhibited some of the richest, most beautifully balanced wines with the truest varietal fruit flavors imaginable.

Fred says, "The estate is in Dry Creek Valley, 17 miles from the ocean and separated by the mountains of California’s Coastal Range. Between the Valley’s floor and the forested ridges to the west there are unusual landforms—smoothly sloping, stepped hills—remnants of geological benches. Laid out in a graceful array, these benches are uplifts of earth weathered and eroded by sun, wind and rain. It is as if Mother Nature, in a majestic gesture, contoured them for grapegrowing."

If you don’t know MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER wines, do yourself a favor and discover them.

GALLO of SONOMA is another admirable winery. The operation is one of the most complete, modern and technologically correct in every aspect of wine production—including the delicious products of wine. It is run by third-generation, Gallo sister and brother team—Gina, winemaker and Matt, vineyards manager. Gallo PR Director Kimberly Charles, my friend of long-standing, toured me thoroughly through the Sonoma properties.

From their modest beginning in the 1930s, the Ernest and Julio Gallo’s dedication to wine over the years has slowly cemented their influence. Early on they traveled across the California countryside, tasting grapes from multiple vineyards. Their search brought them to Sonoma County and Walter and Louis Frei’s vineyards. The Gallo brothers learned from the Frei brothers—the land and its microclimates meant the difference in quality grapes and finer wines. Julio Gallo determined that Sonoma County was the best place to grow grapes. The Gallos bought grapes for three decades from the brothers, and then, after their deaths, purchased the Frei Ranch in Dry Creek Valley from the heirs in 1977. The Gallos purchased the Laguna Ranch in Russian River Valley from the Frei family the same year. Other single vineyard properties include Stefani Vineyard, Barrelli Creek Vineyard, Chiotti Vineyard, Twin Valley Vineyard, Elmo’s Vineyard and Stony Point Vineyard.

In all, they own eight separate properties totaling almost 6,000 acres in four Sonoma County viticultural areas: Dry Creek Valley, Russian River, Alexander Valley and the Sonoma Coast. Julio learned—probably more than anyone--about Sonoma County microclimates through his six decades of study and he taught his grandchildren, Gina and Matt Gallo. Now this third-generation sister-and-brother team are making and growing the Sonoma wines.

GALLO of SONOMA represents three tiers of wine: county wines, single vineyard wines, and the Estate wines. Among the many wines tasted were two single vineyard properties: Frei Ranch and Stefani Ranch; two county wines: a Russian River Chardonnay, and Sonoma County Cabernet; the E & J Gallo Estate bottled Cabernet Sauvignon from Northern Sonoma.

BUENA VISTA, California’s oldest premium winery, was founded in 1857 by wine pioneer Agoston Haraszthy. He was among those who introduced Vitus vinifera grapes to California in the 19th century. A combination of economics and diseased vines closed the winery in 1879. It wasn’t until 1940s that the winery was revived under the direction of journalist Frank Bartholomew. The modern era began in 1979, when the Moller-Racke family of Germany bought the winery. Realizing the potential of the Carneros region, the Moller-Rackes began investing in Carneros vineyard land for Buena Vista. Today, its one of California’s most highly acclaimed winegrowing regions and Buena Vista is the largest estate winery in the Carneros with 1,360 acres—935 planted, half in the ‘70s and half (Tula Vista) in the ‘80s and 770 acres are farmed under the principles of sustainable agriculture. What makes the Carneros so special is its unique microclimate and topography--the terroir encompasses soil, sun exposition, rainfall, wind, maritime influence—all the elements that make up the vine’s natural environment.

The Buena Vista Tasting Room, in the historic winery press house, is one of the most attractive and well-stocked anywhere. Don’t miss tasting the Haraszthy Collection wines—available only in the tasting room--they’re incomparable wines, the Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Riesling are among the best I’ve tasted.

Winemaker Judy Matulich-Weitz has had prestigious associations before coming to Buena Vista 1994: St. Jean intern, top of graduation class at U.C. Davis 1984, Mirassou, Inglenook-Napa Valley, and Beaulieu.

Director of Vineyard Operations Ann Moller-Racke comes from a family of German grapegrowers with a 200-year history and played an instrumental roll in developing the Carneros property in the 1980s.

HAYWOOD estate wines began when Peter Haywood planted his 1973 vineyard, Los Chamizal ("thicket of hardwood") on a mountainside in Sonoma County. He opened his winery in 1980 and devoted himself to vineyard development. Hands-on attention to details in the vineyard brought accolades for his exceptional Zinfandel—the Haywood specialty. Today Racke USA markets and sells Peter’s wines while he oversees the vineyard.

KENDALL-JACKSON WINE CENTER is definitely a destination place. It is one of the largest demonstration organic Culinary gardens open to the public. Some gardens are arranged culturally: Asian, South American, Italian and French. There are red and white wine sensory gardens. Other gardens include herbs, medicinal, seasonal vegetables, seed-saving, and edible landscape. There’s a habitat for beneficial insects and a walnut orchard. The tasting and Education Center features the wines of Kendall-Jackson and the Artisans & Estates wineries—including Stonestreet, La Crema, Edmeades, Cambria and Pepi. There’s an expansive patio and picnic area. Additionally, an experimental vineyard has 26 varietals and 19 trellising systems. This visit is fascinating.

Be sure to enjoy these excellent K-J wines: STONESTREET, HARTFORD COURT. These two wineries especially represent the crème de la crème. The hand-crafted, carefully monitored, small lots of wine produce some beautiful examples.

CLOS DU BOIS began creating fine Sonoma County wines in 1977. Harvested from 590 acres of Alexander Valley vineyards, the wines were soft, elegant and supple, with complexity and aging potential. They complemented fine food, and as a result, became popular with hoteliers and restaurateurs who wanted such wines for their wine lists.

In 1998, Clos du Bois Merlot was named the most popular wine by the nation’s restaurateurs in a national survey. Winemaker Margaret Davenport has continued the fine tradition established by Clos du Bois wines over twenty years ago.

During my visit, we tasted through the wines and they continue to be among my favorites. Margaret explained the philosophy.

"From its earliest days, Clos du Bois wines were created in a particular style: rich, complex, soft red wines and balanced, ripe, flavorful white wines," she explained. "Both reds and whites were drinkable while young, with considerable potential for aging. Our wine style is strongly influenced by vineyard location."

The estate vineyards were planted in Alexander Valley in order to produce the wines that became known as the Classics, helping make Clos du Bois one of America’s leading wineries.

There are four tiers of wines: Clos du Bois Winemaker’s Reserve, Clos du Bois Vineyard Designates, Clos du Bois Alexander Valley Selections and Clos du Bois Classics. As the winery grew, other growing regions were considered outside of Alexander Valley for grape sources that would be capable of producing the Clos du Bois style.

From that time forward, first with the classics, then the Vineyard Designates and the Winemaker’s Reserves, it was the vineyards that specified whether a particular wine would be produced. The process led to special blocks in estate vineyards that had unique characteristics. It is from these blocks that Calcaire, Flintwood, Marlstone and Briarcrest (always favorites of mine) are produced. In exceptional vintages, Margaret selects from the wide array of fruit available to her to create the Winemaker’s Reserves—from estate vineyards or a grower of long-standing quality. We tasted all her delicious wines and you’re in for a treat when you try them.

J WINE COMPANY—it only takes one distinguished initial to bring to mind the exquisitely made American sparkling wine, J. Judy Jordan has moved into a new wine producing facility and has new acreage as well, but her mission remains the same, "to create world-class wines reflecting the rich terroir of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley and to craft wines that enhance special moments in the lives of customers." Founded in 1986, Judy is CEO and general partner. Her vision weaves together the vines of tradition with those of contemporary innovation. Beginning with J Sparkling Wines, the family of J wines continues to grow with the introduction of still wines, including Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris—all from her own vineyards in the Russian River Valley.

1994 J Brut is magic in a glass—clean, crisp, elegant, sprightly, dancing in flute-shaped stemware. I just love this wine. See the new web site: www.jwine.com

SEBASTIANI friends James Knapp and Jason Breaw treated me to a tour and tasting of the landmark winery in Sonoma. The huge old wooden storage containers are something to behold. A major refurbishing and expansion is underway, and some of the old containers have been dismantled and converted into wall paneling and roof beams in the office building. The multi-million dollar renovation of the winery is a two-year project that will improve the administrative, winemaking and hospitality facilities. The goal is to modernize while staying true to the heritage of SEBASTIANI. Several circumstances provided the impetus. The new, three separate wine divisions based on production and function was one of them. CEO Don Sebastiani says, "We’re dedicating our winery exclusively to the production of SEBASTIANI SONOMA CASK and the SEBASTIANI ESTATES; super-premium wines whose small volume requires specialized equipment and care. Additionally, two beautiful old stone buildings deserved to be returned to their former glory. Some projects have been completed and we’re working on the others." Understandably, for safety sake, winery visits cannot take place during the renovation but an alternative hospitality center has been placed in the 1920s craftsman bungalow directly across the street from the Old Winery. If you haven’t lately tried the Sonoma Cask wines, be sure to do so. They’re all winners, but the Barbera, Chardonnay and Merlot are three recent favorites of mine.

FERRARI-CARANO wines have long rated high on my list of favorites. While visiting Sonoma County, I dined at the beautiful Villa at Ferrari-Carano with friends new and of long standing. If you have not seen this incomparable property—you’ve missed something noteworthy. The gardens are breathtaking, the tasting room has great selections for shoppers and the wines will make you extremely happy. Located in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County, a visit to FERRARI-CARANO makes your day sunny and bright.

Chef Joe Costanzo kindly gave me his dessert recipe, after I unashamedly ate a second dessert.

Ferrari-Carano Pistachio Paradise
Serves 14-16

INGREDIENTS:
Candied Pistachio (recipe follows)
1 ½ cups sugar
½ cup water
12 egg yolks
pinch salt
2½ cups heavy cream
1 tsp. Vanilla
¼ cup anisette liqueur

DIRECTIONS:
	In a small saucepan with a candy thermometer attached, combine sugar and water and bring to a boil. Boil until the temperature. Boil until the temperature reaches 238 degrees. Meanwhile, in an electric mixer, beat the yolks and salt until thick. Reduce speed to low and gradually pour in hot syrup. Increase speed to high and continue beating until mixture cools, about 10 to 12 minutes. Cover and refrigerate or place or place in ice water to deep chill, scraping occasionally with a rubber spatula until thoroughly chilled.
	In a large bowl, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Add in the vanilla and annisette liqueur. Continue mixing until soft peaks return.
	Place one quarter of the whipped cream into ribboned yolks, stirring well with a rubber spatula. Add remaining cream on top of the candied pistachios. Fold with spatula until mixtures are combined.
	Place mixture in a large bowl or in individual soufflé ramekins. Cover with plastic and freeze overnight. To serve, scoop mixture into coupe bowls or garnish ramekins with remaining candied pistachios.

CANDIED PISTACHIO INGREDIENTS:
1 TB butter
4 TB sugar
1 TB water
1 cup pistachios, coarsely shopped

DIRECTIONS:
	Spray a piece of aluminum foil with non-stick spray.
	In a small skillet, melt butter over the medium heat and add the sugar.
	Heat for one minute and stir in the nuts and the water. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar melts and turns a light caramel color and the nuts are golden.
	Turn out of pan onto prepared foil and let cool.

FOOD
CAFÉ LA HAYE, housed in part of 100-year-old La Haye Art Center, served some fine food to accompany our Racke USA wine tasting. The two-level, 32-seat former shop has a tiny kitchen with huge flavors. Owner Saul Gropman (Anna Moller-Racke’s husband) greets everyone at the door and checks tables inconspicuously. The food is fresh, simple, crisp or warm when it ought to be and delicious. The Organic Mixed Greens, Walnuts, Bleu Cheese and Roasted Chiogga Beets ($6.25) and Grilled Pork Chop with hot-sweet Mustard Vinaigrette, mashed Sweet Potatoes and Red Cabbage ($14.95) certainly made my evening delightful.