PENFOLDS 1994 St. Henri Shiraz-Cabernet, 421, "elegant, supple, fruit driven, dark berries, spicy, black currants, well-integrated tannins, well structures—serve with meat and game dishes."

MAISON MARQUES et DOMAINES has released a number of wines from South Africa’s Bergkelder group.

• MEERLUST 1995 Merlot $22, "Plums, spice and hints of mineral earthiness, full and velvety."
• LaMOTTE ESTATE 1994 Red $15, "Black currant and plum, rich oak notes, medium-bodied."
• L’ORMARINS 1997 Chardonnay $13, "Lime and aromatic wood, medium to full-bodied."
• STELLENRYCK 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon $16, "Berries and plum, oak background, balanced, complex, long."
• STELLENRYCK 1997 Chardonnay $11, "Rich citrus, toasty vanilla undertones, harmonious fruit and oak."

CALLAWAY Vineyards and Winery in Temecula began in 1969 when Ely Callaway purchased 105 acres he was convinced by research would make ideal vineyards. They rest on a 1,600 foot plateau high in the mountains, where the fog often lingers until mid-morning. "Temecula" is derived from the Luiseno Indian language meaning "where the sun shines thorough the mist." Callaway producers believe they are merely stewards of the land. They farm with a philosophy tht sustains the land long term. These sustainable practices utilize natural over man-made chemicals and encourage bio-diversity, which in nature provides its own checks and balances.

CANEPA wines are made with traditional craftsmanship. I visited Chile several years ago as a guest of the Canepa family whose hospitality and consideration was as generous as their wines. As a young immigrant, Jose Canapa left Italy to settle in Santiago in 1930. He established himself as a wine producer and blended Italian tradition with Chilean innovation to create premium wines. Canepa and his sister pioneered international exporting as well as the use of pneumatic presses and stainless steel tanks and they still have the largest state-of-the-art winery . Indeed, when I was there 1987, they had the only stainless steel tanks of the several wineries that I visited. The wines were clean, fruity, crisp and well-made. Canepa continues to operate as a family winery. Luciana Garibaldi de Canepa, along with her children Jose and Luisa Canepa Garibaldi, oversee the wine production to ensure their legacy.

• CANEPA 1997 Sauvignon Blanc, $7, "fruit flavors and distinctive herbal aromas."
• CANEPA 1997 Chardonnay, $7, "floral aromas and ripe citrus flavors."
• CANEPA 1997 Merlot, $9, "packed with plummy flavors and soft tannins."
• CANEPA 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon ,$9, "aromas of black currants, roe petals, plums and berries, medium body."
• CANEPA 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec, $9, "spicy, smooth, easy-drinking wine."
• CANEPA 1997 Chardonnay Private Reserve, $12, "aromatic fruit and floral flavors, vanilla and melon."
• CANEPA 1995 Merlot Private Reserve, $13, "complex, intense layers of cherry and sweet vanilla, soft and round."
• CANEPA 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, $13, "full bodied, well balanced, ripe fruit, vanilla and chocolate."

CHATEAU ST. JEAN Robert Young Vineyard has a clone tailored by the namesake to suit the alluvial clay soils. The wine is made in the non-malolactic style with barrel fermentation and sur lie stirring in small French oak cooperage for 14 months. The Belle Terre Vineyard, owned by the Dick family, has gently rolling land with well-drained, gravelly and sandy loam soils. This wine was barrel fermented and sur lie aged for 10 months with full malolactic style. Both vineyards have produced wine for Chateau St. Jean since 1975. La Petite Étoile Vineyard has shallow, gravelly, sandy loam soils with tight clay subsoils on rolling hillsides in the Russian River Valley. Precise vertical trellis systems and vigorous leaf pulling and crop level management allows the sauvignon blanc to achieve maturity. A small portion was fermented in stainless steel to preserve the fruit and then blended with the barrel fermented wine before aging in French oak for 10 months. This Fumé Blanc is a favorite of mine.

• CLOS DU BOIS 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon, $18, "a rich, velvety wine brimming blackberry and vanilla flavors."
• CLOS DU BOIS 1997 Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, $15, "Enticing tropical citrus, peach flavors layered with vanilla and toast complexities."
• CLOS DU BOIS 1996 Merlot, Alexander Valley, $20, "An extravaganza of ripe cherry and blueberry with layered toasty plum and oak aromas."
• CLOS DU BOIS 1996 Shiraz, $15, "A rich, gold medal wine with loads of black cherry and black pepper flavors."

RIVEFORT DE FRANCE wines are a result of a unique trio of talent. As a team, David Schlottman, Jean Louis Mandrau and Aaron Pott work very closely in the Languedoc-Roussillon region to produce these wines. David makes Napa Ridge, Jean Louis is former winemaker of Chateau Latour and Aaron made wines at grand crus in St. Emilion. Aaron tells me that throughout the past year he traveled to the wine regions of Beringer’s products, immersing himself in the cultures to understand the origin and soul of the wines made. Aaron was struck by how much he learned about winemaking and viticulture—but also about human nature. "I’m glad to report that 1998 was a good vintage in all the places visited," he says. "Some were blessed with great weather; others had challenges that remind how fortunate we are to have modern winemaking techniques. All in all, I’m proud to say that we made progress in our goal of helping to make wines that are among the best of their regions." The Rivefort de France wines are delicious on the palate and to the pocket.

• RIVEFORT DE FRANCE 1997 Chardonnay, $6, "ripe pear, melon, citrus hints and touch of oak finish.
• RIVEFORT DE FRANCE 1997 Sauvignon Blanc, $6, "dried herbs, crisp grapefruit, floral, lemongrass."

FICKLIN Vineyards in Madera, CA, founded in 1946, is owned and managed by Peter and Steve Ficklin. They produce 10,000 cases of port wines exclusively and grow only Portugese grape varietals: tinta madeira, tinta cao, touriga and souzao.

• ROBERT MONDAVI 1996 Carneros District Chardonnay, $23, "complex, elegant, lush tiers of tropical fruit, enjoy with grilled scallops and wild mushrooms."
• ROBERT MONDAVI 1996 Stag’s Leap District Sauvignon Blanc, $18, "melon, apple, lemon grass and spice, crisp, enjoy with seafood, chicken, creamy pasta or soups."
• LA FAMILGLIA DI ROBERT MONDAVI Sangiovese $22,"great accompaniment to pasta Alfredo, grilled mushrooms, game, chicken and pork, and Pacific Rim dishes."
• LA FAMILGLIA DI ROBERT MONDAVI Barbera, $18, "bramble character, dark spicy cherries, herbaceous hints, ripe plums and blackberries, pair with creamy risotto, ravioli, and eggplant parmesan."
• LA FAMILGLIA DI ROBERT MONDAVI Pinot Grigio, $16, "enjoy with coastal seafood, appetizers and first courses and pasta with light cream sauces."
• LA FAMILGLIA DI ROBERT MONDAVI Moscato Bianco, $12, "orange blossoms, gardenia, juicy ripe peaches, lightly effervescent, sweet, enjoy with a variety of rich cheeses—especially blue--and fruit desserts."

• BYRON 1996 Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay Reserve, $24, "nuances of guava, apricot, and honey mingled with pineapple hints and oak."
• BYRON 1997 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Blanc, $16, "fresh, appealing aromas and flavors integrated to bring peach, honey, and a hint of citrus and a rich finish."
• BYRON 1997 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Gris, $16, "richly textured, aromas of pear, honeydew, hints of vanilla and allspice, enjoy with seafood, roast poultry and highly flavorful cuisine."

• SEBASTIANI 1996 Sonoma Cask Domenici "Old Vines" Zinfandel, $23, "intense raspberry, rich, crushed black pepper, truffle and mocha flavors, soft finish, great with pastas and grilled chicken."
• SEBASTIANI 1996 Sonoma Cask Old Vines Cuvée Zinfandel, $23, "medium body, raspberry jam, oak, herbs, opulent fruit of boysenberries, spiciness, wood and smoke, great with grilled meats and vegetables."
• SEBASTIANI 1997 Sonoma Cask Chardonnay, $12, "vanilla, lemon custard, ripe peach, crisp, and creamy."

• HAYWOOD 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, $8.75, "popular affordable wine, enjoy with grilled meats, roasts, hearty stews and savory foods."

• GEYSER PEAK 1996 Zinfandel, $14, "elegance, class and harmony, plum, spice, pepper and briary components, cedar and oak, round tannins."
• GEYSER PEAK 1996 Reserve Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, $14, "rich and complex, pear, apple, melon, subtle smoky vanilla, buttery, enjoy with creamy pastas, and richly flavored seafood."
• GEYSER PEAK 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon, $14, "rich berry and cassis, cedary vanillin oak, nice structure."
• GEYSER PEAK 1996 Shiraz, $14, "plum, hints of black pepper, spicy vanilla and oak, medium bodied."

• VENEZIA 1996 Sangiovese, Russian River Valley, Van Noy Vineyard, $24, "sweet toasty oak, beautifully structured palate, rich fruit and soft round tannins."
• VENEZIA 1996 Sangiovese, Russian River Valley, Alegria Vineyard, $2, "aromas of raspberry and strawberry, fragrant spices and pepper character, beautifully textured with a fine tannin backbone."

• VALLEY OF THE MOON 1996 Sonoma Cuvée de la Luna, $25, "figs, black currants, pipe tobac, and black cherries."
• VALLEY OF THE MOON 1996 Sonoma Sangiovese, $25, "pomegranates and raspberries, mellow oak, anise, cherries—only 800 cases made."

• RAYMOND 1997 Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, $11, "subtle flavorful honeydew, lemon zest, light, refreshing, pairs nicely with shellfish, seafood, sharp cheeses, grilled chicken, and herb breads."
• RAYMOND 1997 Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay, $15, "rich and soft, fruit character, toasty, vanilla-like oak, enjoy with roasted poultry, grilled seafood, sautéed veal and light pasta dishes."
• RAYMOND 1996 Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $20, "complex, flavorful, adequate tannins, jammy plum, berry character, pair with grilled beef or lamb, roasted garlic dishes, spicy pasta, blue cheeses and mushroom sauces.
• RAYMOND 1996 Napa Valley Reserve Merlot, $20, "full bodied, smoky, spicy nose, plum/berry/dark cherry flavors, nutty and smooth, pair with smoked and grilled meats, sausages, roasted pork, baked ham, red-sauce pastas."
• RAYMOND 1996 Napa Valley Reserve Pinot Noir, $20, "balanced fruit/acidity, plum, cherry, raspberry, hint of oak, light to medium body, pair with grilled salmon, roasted pork, garlic seasoned lamb."

• BERINGER 1997 Napa Valley Private Reserve Chardonnay, $36, "sweet vanilla notes, rich flavors, dense creamy mouthful, nutmeg, lemon-marmalade-citrus, ruby grapefruit, pineapple, pear backed butterscotch."

GALLO of SONOMA 1996 Laguna Ranch Chardonnay won a gold medal and a trophy in three separate categories at the Japan International Wine Challenge: Best Chardonnay, Best White Wine and Best U.S. White Wine.

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COOKING SCHOOLS

L’ACADEMIE de CUISINE offers continuing culinary education to enhance and refine the knowledge and techniques of students and professionals. Some of the many programs concern Introductory Culinary, Savory Cooking Technique, Baking and Pastry and Business Related Programs. They occur at different times for various fees. For information: write the school at 16006 Industrial Dr., Gaithersburg, MD 20877; lacademie@erols.co; (301) 670-8670 or FAX 301/670-0405

Spiced Fruit Compote with Cinnamon Cream Alderbrook Chef Jim May COMPOTE INGREDIENTS: ½ Cup dried pears ½ Cup dried figs ½ Cup dried blueberries ½ teas. ground cinnamon 1/8 teas. cloves ½ Cup ALDERBROOK PORT 1 Cup apple juice DIRECTIONS: Coarsely chop pears and figs. Combine with remaining ingredients in large heavy bottomed sauce pan and simmer slowly, covered, for one hour, stirring occasionally. Mixture should be very soft and moist.  Adjust with more liquid if dry. Remove from heat Serve warm with ALDERBROOK PORT and a dollop of cinnamon cream. It can be served on its own in a dish, baked in a piecrust, with ice cream of frozen for later use. A more savory rendition would be as a stuffing for pork loin. CINNAMON CREAM INGREDIENTS: ½ Cup whipping cream 1-2 tablespoons sugar 1 teas. vanilla 1 teas. ground cinnamon DIRECTIONS: Whip cream until soft peaks form, add sugar, vanilla and cinnamon; continue beating until stiff

VISIT TO FRANCE

CHAMPAGNE DEUTZ is produced in the small village of Aÿ, minutes from Epernay in Champagne, France. Long a favorite champagne of mine, I especially enjoyed my tour, tasting and luncheon with my friend Fabrice Rosset (now president) and Jean-Marc Lallier, descendant of the founding family. Founded in 1838 by William Deutz and Pierre-Hubert Gelderman—two immigrants of Napoleonic Prussia, Fabrice says that today DEUTZ upholds the traditions of fine champagne-making handed down through five generations. Sons René Deutz and Alfred Gelderman inherited the business from their fathers and Gelderman later married Deutz’s sister Marie, strengthening the bonds of partnership. DEUTZ took its place among the great Houses of Champagne when it became a founding member of the Syndicat des Grandes Marques. In 1906, René Lallier—a Deutz son-in-law—and Charles Van Cassel, son-in-law of Marie Deutz Gelderman took over the business. When René died in 1938, his son Jean Lallier assumed leadership and finally total ownership 1966. When Jean’s son Andre became general director in 1972, he inherited a House with excellent stock, a winery fitted with the latest technical advances and a reputation for a distinctive style backed by vineyards of the highest quality. Andre retired in 1996 and Jean-Marc, his son, is now Export Director. Deutz is one of the oldest members of the Association of Grandes Marques and makes wines of a distinctive style characterized by harmony, finesse, elegance and complexity. Sourcing of grapes from 275 acres of Champagne’s finest crus. The wines age in the House cellars, carved into the chalky soil of the village of Aÿ. The wines are distributed all over the world: Brut Classic, Brut Vintage, Brut Rosé Vintage, Blanc de Blancs, Cuvée William Deutz and Cuvée William Deutz Rosé.

MUMM, founded in 1727 and introduced at the French Court in 1730, has continued to create its blends from best crus in the Champagne region. During the 1807s, special bottles were decorated with the Légion d’ Honneur sash, later to become the symbol of the Cordon Rouge. It is the flagship Champagne of the House of Mumm. It spends about three years in the cellars, stored in a dark, quiet place at a constant temperature of 50 degrees. In 1902 Mumm became the leading marque in the Champagne region, selling three million bottles a year, a million of them to the United States. Mumm’s international reputation by 1952 caused Seagram’s to add it to its premium wine portfolio, expanding Mumm to many export markets. Today Mumm’s annual sales of more than 12 million bottles places it second overall in the world rankings. North America is the second largest market after France. Harvests start in September or October, about 100 days after the vines flower. It lasts three weeks, during which time the grapes are picked by hand to avoid damaging the bunches before they reach the presses. MUMM’s traditional seven presses are located right in the center of its vineyards to ensure the quality of the juice. The House of Mumm, in association with PERRIER-JOUET, has invested in grapegrowing and winemaking research with two aims: constantly improving the quality of its wines, and participating in promotion technical development. I had a lovely stay at La Maison Cordon Rouge, built at the end of the 19th century, decorated in the original style. Restored and enhanced in 1996, the house now extends hospitality to friends of Mumm.

VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN was founded in 1772. My friend of long standing, Roselyne de Casteja, and new one, Marie-Christine Grandcolas, arranged my delightful visit—including a stay at the beautiful Residence de Marc and writing letters at Madame Clicquot’s desk--and they explained how the standards set by Madame Clicquot are upheld today. Today the House of Clicquot is among the most prestigious Champagne firms. Its extensive vineyard holding, many purchased by Madame Clicquot, extend throughout the top-rated areas. Bottles age in the House’s vast, vaulted cellars in Reims—with portions constructed 2000 years ago by the Romans. The remarkable Madame Clicquot (1777-1866) is often considered the first businesswoman of the modern era. Widowed in 18005 at the age of 27, Mme. Veuve Clicquot defied every convention of the day and took the helm of her late husband’s small Champagne house. She enlisted help wisely, took astute risks and made important technological innovations—including the invention of remuage, thereby helping the industry and leading the House to world renown. She secretly shipped her Champagne to Russia in 1814 in defiance of the Napoleonic blockade. The House is best known for its "Yellow (orange) Label" brut non-vintage Champagne—abest seller in America prior to Prohibition. Veuve Clicquot also produces a Vintage Réserve, Rosé Réserve and Demi-Sec as well as the firm’s most prestigious La Grande Dame. It is made exclusively from the finest pinot noir and chardonnay grapes picked from vineyards she purchased in the early 1800s. The Champagnes of Veuve Clicquot are full-flavored, elegant, and crisp with a lingering aftertaste.

PERRIER JOUËT has one of the most distinguished properties. The famous Champagne with the Gallé flower motif, was founded by Pierre Nicolas Perrier and Adele Jouët in 1811. The Perriers were cork suppliers and well known to the grand marques, so the Champagne of the young married couple was accepted readily. By 1815 the wine was being shipped to Great Britain and in 1837 to the United States. Charles Perrier took over from his father in 1854, accenting sales to Britain. Perrier-Jouët soon became fashionable at Queen Victoria’s Court. Charles had no children and left the firm to his nephew, Henri Gallice. Vineyard holdings were added over the years, and in 1959 G. H. Mumm bought the House. A turning point occurred in 1964 when an old bottle decorated with an enameled arabesque of anemones was discovered. It had been painted for Henri by his friend, renowned artist and glassmaker Emile Gallé. The design was recreated on a commercial scale as a new prestige cuvée. Managing Director Michel Budin encouraged the development of the new Cuvée Belle Epoque. Introduced in Paris in 1969 at Maxim’s and Fauchon, it became one of the most successful prestige product of the post-war period. In 1987 PERRIER JOUËT celebrated its 150th Anniversary in the North American market and its position as the third largest selling Champagne in the U.S. with a gala in New York. In 1990, Maison Belle Epoque—Perrier-Jouët’s remarkable guest house—opened and I was privileged to be among its first guests. It is furnished with a stunning array of Art Nouveau furniture and objet d’art by masters such as Majorelle, Gruber, Carabin, Vallin, Guimard and Gallé. Production includes Le Grand Brut, Le Blason de France, La Cuvée Belle Époque, Le Brut Millésimé, Le Blason de France Rosé and La Cuvée Belle Époque Rosé

LOUIS ROEDERER decided the only way to ensure his wine was unsurpassed in quality was to control every stage of the process, including owning the vineyards. The company’s 450 acres represent 75% of its grapes, located in the finest growth areas, and with bought grapes have a combined classification of 98%, a rating unrivalled by any other Grande Marque. The balance and subtlety of the champagne come from the finest grapes and the cuvée of wines from Roederer’s celebrated Reserve Wine cellar. Here vintage wines are matured slowly in huge oak casks for at least five years before being blended into the company’s cuvée. These specially selected older wines give the champagne the roundness and depth which are the hallmark of Louis Roederer Champagne. Jean Claude Rouzaud, grandson of Madame Roederer, presides over the business. He says, "A great Champagne is, first of all, the blend of different growths—the marriage of white and red grapes, on the one hand giving body, strength and structure; on the other contributing freshness, elegance and subtlety. This blend, called the cuvée—is a master’s art with Roederer. After tasting and grading new wines, specialists select the components of the cuvée so the style remains characteristic year after year." The final touch is the addition of special old wines to the cuvée, to give more fragrance and finesse. My friend Mary Roche and I had a lovely tour of handsome cellars and then enjoyed an incredible lunch at Royal Champagne, one of my favorite Champagne country restaurants. Among the complete range of elegant wines are the Brut Premier, Cristal, Brut Vintage, Brut Rosé Millésimé and Blanc de Blancs.

MOËT ET CHANDON was one of the first properties that I visited on my initial tour of Champagne more than two decades ago. I have returned many times to see friends of long standing and enjoy their good company and wines. Arnoud de Mareuil, one of them, and I toured the cellars and joined guests for lunch at the incredibly luxurious Trianon—one of the two houses Jean Remy built for Napoleon and his entourage in the 1800s. One really has to experience walking the 15 or so miles of Moët et Chandon underground caves, admiring the enclaves of thousands of bottles stacked eight feet or higher high and 20 feet or more that depth to appreciate all the work that creates this marvelous beverage.

KRUG was founded in 1843. My last visit, as with this one, Cathou Seydoux and I met, chatted and headed for the cask room to sample from the barrels. After the grapes are pressed, the musts (unfermented juice) are brought to the Krug cellars and immediately put into small oak casks. The first fermentation has taken place in these old barrels for decades. The Krugs believe 150 years of experience and research has shown them that cask fermentation (not aging, which is done in bottles) is the most effective means of developing the full spectrum of aromas, tastes, and textures. The process characterizes the firmly structured and harmonious wines. Cathou and I tasted by putting a finger gently into the bung hole—a separate, fresh finger for each barrel. Cathou knows the vineyard contents of each barrel and could have called the dominate flavor from heart: "this one is raspberry, this one has cinnamon spice," and so forth. Each flavor was indelibly distinctive. We also tasted the wine with Winemaker Henri Krug. The miracle of Champagne is the blend—the alliance of different grapes, growths and years to prpoduce a taste far superior to a single wine. The blending is crucial and the Krug family works at the tasting table from November through January, analyzing, rejecting, making trial blends. Eventually, the bottles will tell the story of their work—a truly unique drinking experience.

ALFRED GRATIEN has been expressing quality through its limited production since 1864 when Alfred Gratien founded the House. Today descendant Eric Seydoux and his two sons Alain and Gerard direct the firm. They do not own vineyards but rather buy all three grape varieties used in their blend—which changes annually according to the quality of the fruit. ALFRED GRATIEN also uses oak. These barrels are aged before they are used as oak flavors are not the object. Indeed, the barrels are maintained and used over and over for decades. It helps give the wine a distinctive structure and balance. The non-vintage wines are aged three to four years while the vintage wines are aged six to seven years before being released. These are full-bodied, supple and well-structured wines—among my favorites.

Five generations of the family-owned house have devoted themselves to producing the highest quality wines. CEO Alain Seydoux (great-grandson of Jean Meyer) and his family members are friends of long standing and I visit them every two of three years to enjoy their good company and the distinguished wines. While preserving the best of wine-making processes from his ancestors, Alain constantly keeps up-to-date on viticultural and vinification methods to keep state of the art quality.

ALFRED GRATIEN is one of the last remaining family-owned and operated Champagne-house businesses. The wine is exquisitely crafted, with all the power and prestige of a great luxury product. This champagne makes a rich and full-bodied wine, dry and filled with the toasty nuances barrels give to wine.

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ST. FRANCIS’ JOE MARTIN VISITS AUSTIN

Modest, and characteristically understated, Joe Martin left the furniture business for a life in the country. That move enticed him to grow grapes and eventually to make wines.

"After harvest there was a lot of down town," Joe told me. "I figured we could begin making wine during all that free time."

As proprietor of St. Francis Winery & Vineyards, Joe Martin brought his delicious wines to Austin for a Vintner’s Dinner at the new Mirabelle Restaurant. St. Francis has been well known for fine Chardonnay, two-thirds of production, for almost twenty years, the same number of years that Tom Mackey has been making the St. Francis wines.

"Many of us buy our grapes from the same local growers," Joe says. "The thing that distinguishes our product is the winemaker and his technique. It’s like the different results a variety of chefs will get with the same raw ingredients."

St. Francis Sonoma County Chardonnay, $11, is produced from estate grapes and blended with grapes from nearly vineyards. The wine is fermented in different lots, some in new oak barrels and the balance in stainless steel tanks. A portion of the lots undergoes malolactic fermentation. After aging for six months, the barrel and tank lots are blended and the wine is bottled. The barrel component adds a toasty complex character, the tank component adds fruity grape notes.

Tom Mackey says the Chardonnay is styled to be crisp. "It has a fresh expression of the classic Sonoma varietal character. The fruit and melon aromas are offset by a slight oak and vanilla note which carries on the palate."

Tom says the descriptors are "butterscotch, tropical fruits, citrus and brown spice. The food affinities for the Chardonnay are chicken, fish, veal, grilled salmon and shellfish and mild cheeses.

The new St. Francis Winery is under construction and should be finished by June. You’re invited to visit. 1-800-543-7713

Mirabelle is so newly opened that Michael Vilim and Cathie Dailey, co-owners, didn’t have a press kit for me so I’ll share more information about the place when I have it. The diners, however, were pleased with the menu and had many good reports about enjoying the food.

The reception hors d’oeuvre, Wild Mushroom Risotto with Garlic Aioli, was a lovely start to the evening. The Seared Pepper Salmon Roll with Fennel Buerre Blanc received the wildest applause when Chef Jesse Torres took his bow and explained the dishes. The Lamb Wellington with Madeira Bordelaise and the Sonoran Rubbed Beef Tenderloin were also well received.

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CLOS DU VAL PRESIDENT BERNARD PORTET
FEATURED AT SJE TASTING

In a word, charming; however, while Bernard Portet’s charm mesmerized the participants, his informal expertise and tirelessness (he stood for almost three hours to answer questions and describe his wines) also created awe. The wines were superb. We tasted verticles of Merlot, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as the delicious Chardonnay and the introduction of "Ariadne," a blend of sauvignon and semillon. It was a stellar evening.

Clos Du Val—French for "small vineyard estate of a small valley"--is in the Stags Leap District (SLD) of Napa Valley and has vineyards in Carneros, SLD, Yountville and Oakville. 75,000 cases annually are produced—45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Chardonnay, 25% other varietals--of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Cahrdonnay and Semillon. Clos Du Val was founded in 1972 by John Goelet and Bernard Portet, both of Bordeaux, France, after a worldwide search for vineyard properties. Bernard is the winemaker, a graduate in Agronomy and Enology from schools of Toulouse and Montpellier, France. The Clos Du Val label depicts the Three Graces—Splendor, Mirth, Good Cheer—goddesses of civility and the banquet.

I asked Bernard about his background: "I grew up in Bordeaux and come from a long line of winemakers. My father, André Portet, was Régisseur (technical director) of a château for more than 20 years. I used to play in the vineyards when I was a child. Living with my father was like an immersion in wine. He never really told me what was to be done, but how and why it was to be done. He literally got wine into my senses. He told me about such and such a parcel, and why a certain variety had been planted on a certain rootstock in that place—when it would become ripe, ready to pick and why. He taught me about the land—and that’s what nurtures the grapes. When I was looking for vineyard property, that’s what I was looking at—the land.

"To me, it’s most important that a wine be balanced, in harmony. I’m not trying to create the biggest wines I can, or to impress someone at a blind tasting. I like to see my wines paired with food so they are a part of someone’s everyday life, as in France. Wine should be complex, soft, round , with a certain amount of tannin to hold the wine and some fruit to make it attractive. What good is making wine that is just going to sit around in a cellar?

Bernard’s wines are lovely expressions of balance, harmony and deliciousness. So was his presentation. Look for the Clos Du Val wines in your favorite wine shop or store. You’re going to enjoy them—a lot!

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DINING AT SI BON WITH CHATEAU SOUVERAIN WINES

Chateau Souverain Winemaker Ed Killian brought his latest wines to town. Consistently, these wines show well across the product line and won’t deplete your bank account in order to enjoy them. We shared them with a fine repas at Si Bon. I stay in awe of young Chef Peter O’Brien’s fabulous cooking at his restaurant, Si Bon. Peter continues to work his magic with dishes, and if possible, he just gets better and better. We are privileged to have a chef of his caliber in Austin—or any other place, for that matter. I’ve never eaten better food anywhere—San Francisco, Paris, New York, New Orleans or any other gastronomic capital. He is truly uniquely talented. Anyway, with each course we tasted each wine: Chateau Souverain Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Winemaker’s Reserve Chardonnay, Dry Creek Zinfandel, Alexander Valley Merlot and the Chateau Souverain Alexander Valley Winemaker’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. We were amazed how well any of the wines actually paired with any of the dishes. Winemaker Ed decided that the foods exhibited such an exquisite balance between acidity and sweet components that the flavors suited all the wines. High praise indeed and great understanding from one who strives for such balance in wines from vintage to vintage.

Now, to the menu: An excellent Caesar Salad prepared at out table, House Cured Salmon Chevre Tart with Caper and Onion Crème Fraîche, Pistachio Chicken Galantine with Crisp Leeks and Apricot Mustard Sauce, Maine Lobster on Crisp Risotto Cake with Tomato-Fennel Bisque, Duck Confit Dumpling with Shitaki Mushrooms and Sage Marsala Sauce and a heavenly Strawberry Soufflé for dessert. Every dish was sublime. Thank you, Peter.

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MESSINA HOF AND CARMELO:
"Two Gentlemen from Sicily Dinner"

Merrill and Paul Bonarrigo brought their wines to Carmelo’s Restaurant in Austin for a delicious pairing of wines and food. The event made a lot diners happy. Carmelo is a very personable host who takes great pride in presenting his guests with a variety of Italian culinary treasures. As he says, "Besides having good food, good value and a clean restaurant, you have to have a happy feeling." He exudes it with large portions of enthusiasm and he especially likes to greet his guests at the front door. "What better career," he asks, "can there be than satisfying people and making them happy?" You’ll enjoy the Carmelo’s experience. Carmelo’s, 5th and Red River, 477-7497

The "Two Gentlemen from Sicily Dinner"

Apertivo
Homemade Italian Sausage
Smoked Salmon
Fried Oysters with a Champagne Sauce
Messina Hof Brut Champagne

Insalata
Torre Di Pisa
Tomato, Onion, Avocado, Heart of Artichoke
Caper-Vinagrette Dressing

Pasta
Rigatoni Col Cavolfiore
Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

Carne
Combination of Filet of Beef with Bernaise Sauce
Lamb Chop with a Mint Merlot Sauce
Fresh Vegetable Timballo
Reserve Merlot

Dolce
Chocolate Profitteroles
Expresso & Biscotti
Reserve Port