The Sarah Jane English Newsletter: 22nd Edition
January 9, 1999

NEWS

SONOMA STATE UNIVERSITY offers the only Wine Business Curriculum in the country. It offers specialized courses in wine business: marketing finance, human resources, computer systems, and accounting. For information, 707/664-2260.

Consumers wishing a free copy of SUTTER HOME’s nonalcoholic drinks recipe brochure, please telephone 800/662-5240; e-mail info@sutterhome.com.

GEORGE ROSE, wine industry veteran and excellent photographer, has joined the public relations department at Allied Domecq. He will oversee all publicity for the three northern California wineries--Clos du Bois, Atlas Peak and Willliam Hill, internationally marketed, super-and-ultra-premium quality brands.

FERRARI-CARANO has launched its new web site at www.ferrari-carano.com.

SARA CUMMINGS has joined FETZER as director of public relation. Sara formerly worked for Balzac.

BARBETTA is the oldest Italian restaurant in New York City (opened 1906) and the oldest one still owned by its founding family. It’s beautiful, and located in the 1874 and 1881 Maioglio-Astor Townhouses. It is definitely worth a visit. For reservations, 212/246-9171, fax 212/246-1279, e-mail Barbetta 90@aol.com, 321 West 46th St.

BEVERAGE TASTING INSTITUTE released ratings for 560 U.S. red wines: 31% Washington reds had a score of 90 or better; 28% California reds had 90 or better. Top scores went to Woodward Canyon 1995 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 99; Chateau Ste. Michelle 1995 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 95 and five wines scored 94: Chateau Ste. Michelle 1995 Artist Series Red Meritage Columbia Valley; DeLille Cellars 1995 Chaleur Estate Yakima Valley Cellar Selection; L’Ecole 41’s 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, and Matthews Cellars 1996 Elerding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley. See www.washingtonwine.org for more information.

FESS PARKER purchased the Los Olivos Grand Hotel, an elegant country inn, and renamed it Fess Parker’s Wine Country Inn & Spa. In the heart of Santa Barbara County wine country, he promises that the one-of-a-kind inn will be the destination for your wine country trip. For information, 800/446-2455.

MILDARA BLASS of Australia has launched a new California brand—BAYLISS & FORTUNE. The four premium, 1997 wines include Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from Monterey County, and Zinfandel from Mendocino County and range about $12 to $13.

RAYMOND Vineyards, now in its fifth generation of winemaking in Napa (since 1876) is launching AMBERHILL Vineyards to be the "best California appellation wines available." The renaissance began several years ago with a $12 million investment in winery, barrels, and new vineyards. AMBERHILL will retail for $6 to $8.

CHAMPAGNE PERRIER-JOUÉT has a new web site to help romantics remember important dates: www.perrier-jouet.com. Enter your date and they’ll send e-mail to remind you about it.

GREG FOWLER was appointed senior vine-president of winemaking for Seagram Chateau & Estates Wines.

KORBEL, the nation’s oldest and best-selling producer of méthode champenoise sparkling wine (16% dollar share of the $249 million sparkling wine category), is launching a Millennium promotion that will unveil the "world’s largest champagne bottle." At four feet six inches and weighing 350 pounds, the bottle had to be hand blown in Germany. It will tour the nation on its way to Times Square for the New Years Eve 1999.

CHARLES KRUG WINERY lot # 350 was the highest valued lot purchased ($24,000) at the 17th Annual Detroit International Wine Auction—second highest bid in the history of the auction. It consisted of 68 bottles of CHARLES KRUG Vintage Select Cabernet Sauvignon—34 vintages from 1951 to 1995. Wine pioneer Charles Krug built Napa Valley’s first winery in 1861.

DOMAINE CHANDON has released its Cuvée 2000 to help enthusiasts celebrate the millennium. Winemaker Dawnine Dyer says, "The base wine comes from the wonderful 1992 vintage, with additions from ’91, ’90, ’89 and ’88 for complexity. Pinot Noir comprises 56% of the blend.

CHALONE INC. has introduced a new line of wines, ECHELON, the expression of more affordable wines such as previously bottled Acacia Caviste and Chalone Gavilan.

WINE INSTITUTE reports that the 1998 California wine grape harvest was late and light and that the wine inventories are in balance with strong demand.

NAPA VALLEY VINTNERS ASSOCIATION made a record $3 million donation to the Napa Valley health care facilities, beneficiaries of the money raised at the June Wine Auction. Next year’s event is scheduled for June 3-6, 1999 and the chairman is John Shafer.

ACACIA WINERY debuted its 1995 Beckstoffer Vineyard Pinot Noir in November. This is the first time that the winery has selected its favorite barrels and bottled them as a designated vineyard wine. According to Acacia General Manager, Winemaker and Texan Mike Richmond, "We feel privileged to produce wines from some of the oldest pinot noir vines in Carneros. The pedigree of the grapes shows through in the quality of the wine. This is magical wine. It whispers Carneros."

PACIFIC ECHO 1992 Private Reserve Brut was released in time for the hoidays. The extremely limited quantities (500 cases) satisfied appreciative imbibers with this full-flavored, elegant wine.

KING ESTATE reports that the 1998 Oregon grape harvest had low yields and exceptional quality.


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TEXAS WINE NEWS
BECKER 1997 Estate Viognier won a bronze at the San Francisco State Fair; at the Southwest Wine Competition, a Double Gold for BECKER 1996 Muscat Canelli and silvers for the 1996 Estate Merlot and 1997 Estate Chardonnay; at the Lone Star Competition, Becker 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon (Deming) won Gold and Best of Class, and silvers for the 1996 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and 1997 Estate Chardonnay.

CAP*ROCK WINERY opened a new Winery and Tasting Room at 409 South Main Street in Grapevine, TX where educational programs will be offered throughout the year, Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. until 4:30 a.m., as well as gifts (!-800/546-WINE). CAP*ROCK President De Pierce reported that due to the gold medal won at the 1995 Expovina International Competition in Zurich, "we have started our fourth year of doing business in Switzerland with our largest sale ever. CAP*ROCK won gold for the 1996 Topaz Royal and silver for the 1997 Chardonnay at the International Eastern Wine Competition, New York, and silver for the Topaz Royal at the national Orange Show, California, and silvers for the 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon at the International Wine & Spirits Competition and the World Wine Championship, Illinois.

FALL CREEK VINEYARDS has released a blush wine named Holiday Hoopla to celebrate the season. It comes in a frosted white bottle with a label that depicts an elfish elf in a cowboy hat and red boots. The Aulers invite you to "have fun with this one." E-mail chad@fcv.com, and see www.fcv.com.

STE. GENEVIEVE Gamay Beaujolais $4.50: aromas of cherries, raspberries, strawberries, slightly sweet and well balanced with tart berry finish, serve well chilled with fruit, cheese and cold meats.

SPICEWOOD VINEYARDS reports that their harvest was a great success and they’ll have 2500 cases of estate-bottled wines. "Dry summer heat inhibited mildew and created wonderful flavors and aromas," says co-owner Madeleine Manigold. SPICEWOOD won awards at two competitions: 1997 Sauvignon Blanc a silver and 1997 Chardonnay a bronze at Southwest Wine Competition and a silver for the 1996 Merlot and bronze for the 1997 Chardonnay at the Lone Star Competition.

MESSINA HOF Wine Cellars won seven medals at the first Texas Wine and Food Classic Competition in Houston: Chenin Blanc, gold; Gewürztraminer, silver, Johannisberg Riesling, silver, Late Harvest Muscat Canelli, silver. Winemaker Paul Bonarrigo said: "As the fourth largest wine market in the nation, Houston was a great place for the event. Bonarrigo reported that MESSINA HOF "swept 20% of the total medals at the Lone Star Competition," including the Grand Star of Texas, the Best of Class and a Gold Medal for the 1997 Sauvignon Blanc. At Grapefest, MESSINA HOF received the People’s Choice Awards gold for the Late Harvest Muscat Canelli and Barrel Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and silver for the Papa Paulo Port.


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WASHINGTON UPDATE
WASHINGTON ASSOCIATION of WINE GRAPE GROWERS announced a total tonnage of 71,000, setting an all time record.

HOGUE Cellars winemaker David Forsyth said of the 1998 harvest: "I never had so much fun! It’s a strong year for Washington State red wines."

LEONETTI Cellar owner/winemaker Gary Figgins said: "Our future is so bright we have to wear shades. Our warmest summer on record followed by a sunny autumn brought grapes to ultra ripeness with great tannins, great body and great fruit."

L’ECOLE owner/winemaker Marty Chubb said: "This is a textbook vintage for reds." His Merlot won the best wine in the Tri-Cities Wine Competition.

WASHINGTON wines received a score of 90 or better in ratings released by BEVERAGE TASTING INSTITUTUE for 560 U.S. red wines: 31% for Washington reds and 28% for California reds that received 90 or better. Washington top scores went to Woodward Canyon 1995 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 99; Chateau Ste. Michelle 1995 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 95 and five wines scored 94: Chateau Ste. Michelle 1995 Artist Series Red Meritage Columbia Valley; DeLille Cellars 1995 Chaleur Estate Yakima Valley Cellar Selection; L’Ecole 41’s 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, and Matthews Cellars 1996 Elerding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley. See www.washingtonwine.org.

WASHINGTON TRI-CITIES WINE COMPETITION, where I was a judge in November, gave me good insight into the northwest wine industry, including the fine wines of Washington. Five judges tasted and retasted more than 200 wines in two days and awarded 7 gold, 26 silver and 58 bronze medals. Top awards went to:

GOLD

SILVER
(listed in categories)

Also, the 1996 THURSTON Wolfe Blue Franc Lemberger, 1997 HORIZON’S EDGE Muscat Canelli Estate, 1995 THURSTON WOLFE JTW’s Port, nv HINZERLING Three Muses Ruby Port, nv HOODSPOT Raspberry Wine, 1997 BONAIR Dry Riesling, 1997 COVERY RUN Fume Blanc, 1997 BARNARD GRIFFIN Semillon, 1997 SETH RYAN Gewurztraminer, 1996 SETH RYAN Cabernet Franc


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BERINGER WINEMAKER COMMENTS
BERINGER‘s Winemaker Ed Sbragia comments on responding to varietal character: "We used to grow sauvignon blanc and chardonnay grapes in the same cool areas of Napa, but I found that sauvignon blanc too grassy. During our replanting program, we shifted sauvignon blanc further north to a slightly warmer climate. We also adjusted the trellising in a way that brought out the mellow aromas and flavors I prefer. In this vintage, that meant stone fruit—especially apricots—as well as citrus, quince, and even lemongrass. During winemaking, I barrel-fermented most of the juice and put it through malolactic to emphasize the richer, more complex flavors of the grape. But I also cold-fermented a portion to retain the brighter citrus and stone fruit notes. I used seasoned oak barrels, rather than new ones, of subtle notes of spicy clove and vanilla, and I blended in a small amount of Semillon for a rich, fig and melon flavor that I think rounds out the sauvignon blanc.

"In contrast, Chardonnay grows better in the cool southern end of Napa from Yountville to San Pablo Bay, where the soils are more gravelly and restrictive. But even within this small area there are differences, and each of our chardonnay vineyards makes its own contribution to the interplay of acidity, ripe fruit and creaminess that I seek in Chardonnay. The concentrated, zingy citrus and buttery aromas and flavors in this vintage—I’ve coined the term "lemon-peel curd" for this combination—came mostly from our Yountville-area vineyards, while the balancing apple/pineapple flavors come from our vineyards in the Carneros region. For our Napa Valley Chardonnay, I like the heightened spice and toast that comes from using a portion of new French oak with seasoned oak—which gives a nice toasted almonds. I’m especially pleased with the texture—a rich, creamy mouthfeel that I attribute to frequent stirring of the wine on the lees following fermentation."


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BERNARDUS WINEMAKER COMMENTS
BERNARDUS Winemaker Don Blackburn says: "Marinus (muh-ree-nus) vineyard is in the upper Carmel Valley. This is a mountain region with increasing recognition for Bordeaux varieties, to which Marinus is planted exclusively. Winegrowing begins with people. Marminus Vineyard is the collaboration of owner Ben Pon, Vineyard Manager Todd Kenyon and me," Blackburn says. "Our approach to winemaking is intensive rather than extensive. It’s based on a traditional appreciation for the inherent variation in nature. It demands a pervasive focus on maximizing the quality of the grapes from each vine, and the wine from each barrel. Layout and cultivation of the vineyard are specific to sections, rows, and even vines.

"Quality takes precedence over farming economics, and its theme is managing the vigor of the vines. Optimum vigor enables fruit from each vine to fully develop its individual characteristics, which yields a more complex wine and concentrated flavors. Close vine spacing at Marinus vineyard is adjusted to the varying soil potential of each section or block. The average vine density is three times what is typical in California. Our computerized irrigation system with an integrated weather station allows us to precisely monitor and adjust soil moisture to the attributes of each block. Irrigation is not scheduled by the calendar. Clusters are thinned when necessary to further manage yields per vine. The average vine yields less than one-half of the typical amount for these varieties. Akin to the great chateaux, each block is assigned to a particular worker. This instills a proprietary sense of responsibility for quality. Finally, each block is picked separately to ensure perfect ripeness for all grape clusters.

"The signature characteristic of the Bernardus style is the management of aeration. Air is not the absolute enemy of wine. Sufficient oxygen early in the wine’s development is essential for the creation of bright flavors and supple textures. Splash aeration aids the polymerization of tannins.

"Complexity and balance of the wine are enhanced through multiple blending lots, as well as individualized handling for each lot and barrel. New French oak barrels are used to ‘dress’ the wines with additional flavors and textures to achieve the result the Bordelais refer to as ‘noble.’

"The 1995 Marinus was created to flatter the palate and stimulate the imagination."  BERNARDUS 1995 Marinus Carmel Valley $36: concentrated flavors, complexity, elegant and velvety.


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FETZER entourage comes to Austin for an SJE Tasting
Former lumberman Barney Fetzer planted a few acres on a ranch he bought in 1958. After selling the crop for several years, he produced Zinfandel and Cabernet in 1968. He restored an old stone winery northwest of Hopland, made an early-on good reputation for Zinfandels and expanded production throughout the 1970s. After his death his family members took over the operation.

In the 1980sWinemaker Paul Dolan headed a separate facility for white wines, capitalized on blushes and by the late 1980s was operating three winemaking facilities, Valley Oaks Vineyard and a garden/entertainment center. In mid-1992 for a reported $100 million, the Fetzer family sold the business to Brown-Forman, national marketing agents.

President Paul Dolan managed the facilities and set up a cooperage near the winery. The cooperage makes all Fetzer’s barrels—American and French oak--and supplies 200 other wineries. The case production of all wines is pushing 2.5 million.

Our guests were FETZER VINEYARDS principals— Vice President/Director of Marketing and Communications Sid Goldstein, Executive Winemaker Dennis Martin, Bonterra Winemaker Bob Blue, and Public Relations Director Sara Cummings.

Dennis explained that the FETZER Reserve Collection represents the finest of wines. "Nurtured from vineyard to bottle," he says, "they reflect my personal passion for crafting wines from the state’s most prestigious vineyards and growing regions."

Each wine is produced from a separate appellation--Chardonnay from Mendocino, Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley, Merlot from Sonoma and Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara. Highly praised often, they deserve it.

Winemaker Bob Blue explained the intricacies of organic grape growing, the resource for his Bonterra wines. Bonterra is the nation’s most successful producer of organically grown wine. Their program lasted for a happy two hours—tasting, explaining vineyard and winery operations and answering questions,

We tasted through 14 offerings from Fetzer Vineyards and all the wines showed well. If you’re not familiar with the fine products from this winery, wait no longer. Favorites were found among the wines listed below by various tasters. Take your pick, or try them all.


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PUBLICATIONS
(Links to publication list on Amazon.com provided when available.)

WINE SPECTATOR’S ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BUYING WINE, 6th Edition, is revised and expanded to 1,152 pages with over 40,000 individual wines evaluated, a list of "Great Wine Values" for $12 or less, tasting notes on 20,000 wines, handy shopping lists, and more, for $27.95 soft cover. Buy locally at wine shops or call 800/761-4099.

THE CONNOISSEURS HANDBOOK of CALIFORNIA and the PACIFIC NORTHWEST, 4th Edition, by Norman Roby and Charles Olken is available. I’m delighted Norm and Charles have updated this useful reference. It’s one of my favorites. Published by Alfred Knopf, Inc., 413 pages, $20 paperback.

CALIFORNIA WINE WINNERS 1999, The Best of the 1998 Judgings, Edited by Trudy Ahlstrom and J. T. Devine, $9 is an excellent quick view of California’s award winnings wines. It includes composites of all awards for a producer as well as lists per varietal. Take it with you shopping and try the entries.

THE TOMATO FESTIVAL COOKBOOK, sponsored by Kendall-Jackson Winery, has 58 tomato recipes for soups, salads, entrees, salsas, and such-- $7 plus $2 shipping and handling, 800/852-4890.

HARVESTS OF JOY by Robert Mondavi with Paul Chutkow, Harcourt Brace, Sept 1998, $27. Mondavi says he wrote the book for his grandchildren so they could understand what was necessary to achieve success. I find complete honesty, integrity, openness and faith in yourself are what you need to be successful. He also wants readers to understand the passion that has fueled his life’s work. He counts among his most important contributions "getting the wine industry to realize that there is a lot more to learn about winemaking through research and experimentation.  Ousted from the family business at the age of 52, in a family feud notorious in the wine world, Mondavi went on to become one of the country’s most respected and admired entrepreneurs. With a vision and determination to create American wines that rival the best in the world, he shocked the industry by borrowing $100,000 from friends to start his own winery in 1966. His story is one of unrivaled achievement. $27, widely available.


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NEW RELEASES
(prices vary store to store; parentheses indicate producers’ serving suggestions; comments are from winemakers)

KENWOOD’s 20th anniversary of the Artist Series. The current label was also the first label, submitted in 1978 for the 1975 vintage to the BATF and rejected as "obscene and indecent." Dubbed the "Naked Lady" at the winery, it was resubmitted in 1997 for the 1994 vintage and approved. 1994 was exceptional growing season and produced some of the best cabernet sauvignon fruit ever grown in California. Intensely flavored, the bottle would make an excellent millenium celebratory wine—or any special time. It won’t be easy to find, but it’s worth the search.

BROLIO 1996 Chianti Classico $12: aromas and flavors of black cherries, dried plums, raspberries, hazelnuts, and black tea (serve with tomato-based pasta, veal, rack of lamb, roasted meats, grilled meats and vegetables)

FREDERICK WILDMAN and Sons, Ltd. has released five reasonably priced wines worth trying: DOMAINE du MAGE blanc, Gascony, $7: clean, fresh, flowery aromas, racy palate, fruit salad aftertaste; DOMAINE du MAGE rouge, Gascony, $7: ripe, smoky nose, black fruits, medium texture and weight, firm finish; DOMAINE MIQUEL Viognier, Languedoc-Roussillon, $13: white flowers, spices, peach, pear and apricot aromas, drink young with fish, white meats or cold cream soups. DOMAINE MIQUEL Syrah, Languedoc-Roussillon, $13: spicy ripe fruit, structured, dense, balanced tannins—will develop for 15 years. CHATEAU SAINT SULPICE, Red Bordeaux, $9: ripe flavor of Merlot.

KENWOOD’s 20th anniversary of the Artist Series. The current label was also the first label, submitted in 1978 for the 1975 vintage to the BATF and rejected as "obscene and indecent." Dubbed the "Naked Lady" at the winery, it was resubmitted in 1997 for the 1994 vintage and approved. 1994 was exceptional growing season and produced some of the best cabernet sauvignon fruit ever grown in California. Intensely flavored, the bottle would make an excellent millenium celebratory wine—or any special time. It won’t be easy to find, but it’s worth the search.


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AUSTRALIAN WINES

PEAK WINES INTERNATIONAL is doing its usual excellent job of producing delicious wines.

STIMSON LANE VINEYARDS & ESTATES offers wines of quality and value. There are single vineyard and reserve wines included. I recently tasted through many of these wines and can recommend them. Please check below:

 
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PORT
The House of Martinez and the House of Ramos-Pinto

"MARTINEZ grows wine in a place in Portugal where the rain, heat, earth, and sun conspire to create some of the world’s most celebrated wine. Rugged mountains shelter it from cool sea breezes. The sun works overtime during the long summer days. The soil—rough, rocky, tool-breaking—rewards struggling roots with deep water: And a river of gold (the Rio Douro) winds through.

"Some say the best Porto comes from grapes that can hear the river flowing. All agree that the Douro Valley is home to noble, ancient vines. Roman feet trod grapes here; fifteenth-century kings toasted with its fragrant wine; and in time, the British, who loved it most of all, spread Porto’s fame throughout the world. Now, one of the oldest names in the Douro—Martinez—is at last available in America, offering a whole new generation a taste of rare, hand-crafted wines.

"Portugal demarcated the Douro region in 1761, designating land sixty miles inland from Oporto, measuring sixty-seven miles long and at most, 15.6 miles wide as the exact boundaries of the Douro region. Only wines produced in the valley’s three districts could be called Porto—the Upper Douro, east of Tua, being considered the finest of all. It is here that the Port house of Martinez Gassiot was established in 1790. New vineyards at Vilarica have inspired many of Martinez’ newest innovations: soil analysis, varietal clones, pruning, vinification techniques, and pioneering a research nursery at Tourao (the first of its kind in Portugal), near the vineyards to explore virus-free rootstock, block planting methods, and higher quality’ yield growing techniques.

For 200 years, Martinez has been blending tradition and science."

"In 1937, the Douro’s vineyards wee rigorously graded according to geographical positioin, elevation and slope, soil profile, grape variety and climate. A-rated vineyards are alowed to produce up to 600 liters of Porto per thousand vines. F-rated vineyards may only produce table wine. Martinez vineyards are all A-rated.

"Martinez is one of the few Porto producers to have its own cooperage, where 20,000 casks (pipes) and large vats are repaired and reconditioned. Every cask carries a cooper’s identification, and only the same cooper who built the cask or his student may repair it."

FINE RUBY, FINE TAWNY, LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE, 1991 VINTAGE PORT, 1995 QUINTA DA CHOUSA, 1995 QUINTA EIRA VELHA, 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY, 20-YEAR-OLD TAWNY and MASTER’S RESEVE are among the Martinez for your selection.

The HOUSE OF RAMOS-PINTO was founded in 1880 by Adriano Ramos-Pinto. "The excellent quality of its wines soon gained recognition for Ports of the highest repute. Adriano’s business foresight made him something of a pioneer in the Port Trade. Today Champagne Louis Roederer, the majority shareholder of Adriano Ramos-Pinto, perpetuates the policy of quality established by Adrinao and his brother António, who decided to market their wines under their name. The current management, which still includes descendants of Adriano, ensures continuity in a company renowned for the characteristic style of its great Port."

In 1976, Ramos-Pinto began detailed research in order to select the best grape varieties from the wide range traditionally grown in the Douro. Upon completion of this research, five varietals were first selected by Ramos-Pinto, then adopted for all new plantations in the Region. The four most important of these are the Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Barroco and Roriz. Ramos-Pinto research continues. Products include FINE WHITE, FINE RUBY, SUPERIOR TAWNY, LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE, VINTAGE, QUINTA DA ERVAMOIRA 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY, QUINTA DO BOM-RETIRO 20-YEAR-OLD TAWNY, SINGLE QINTA—QUNITA DA URTIGA.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!
ENJOY IT AND DRINK IN MODERATION.