The Routes Jacques Coeur, a Treasure to visit in central France's Berry-Cher
I’ve found a treasure. Beyond Paris, it may be my favorite place in France. It is also the home of favorite French friends—the gracious and charming Marie-France de Peyronnet and her husband Xavier. Marie-France introduced me to the Routes Jacques Coeur, a region she serves as Déléguée de la Route Jacques Coeur.Like other curious travelers, I often long for that little known destination that avoids the usual roar of the crowd. To find such a wonder in France, where visitors can also experience palpable history, is unusually exciting. The Shangri-la does exist. It is real. The trek is named for a 15th-century man who amassed the greatest fortune of his time, Jacques Coeur.
Route Jacques Coeur meanders through the ancient province of Berry, today called Le Cher en Berry (or simply Cher). It is located 200km south of Paris in the heart of France. Its namesake is a Midas-like character who made millions of francs in trade with the East. He was born (1395) and reared in Bourges, a boy with little education and no pedigree, but grew to be a man who could count very well indeed. It was his skill with numbers that led to his fame.
In the 15th century, France consisted of many regions and history was made throughout the country, not just in Paris. The Berry region contains a constellation of castles from the Loire River to the geographical center of France that document important events and enterprises. Le Chateau de Meillant, Le Chateau d’Ainay-le-Vieil, Chateau La Verrerie and other properties helped produce statesmen such as Jacques Coeur, Sully, Colbert and Louvois. Berry has always been a rallying point for the French. Historically nurtured, the enthusiastic landowners of major sites in the region have formed an association of their properties, choosing the name Jacques Coeur to suggest the unity and the double nature of the homes—half medieval and half Renaissance. Many are now open to visitors.
In the 1430s, France lived through some of its most tragic years. It was invaded by foreigners and torn by civil war. The English occupied most of northern France, including Orleans and the King took refuge in the heart of his kingdom at Bourges. Had Joan of Arc not entered the scene and helped to change history, the King might have continued retreating further south. Jacques Coeur appeared at this historic moment.
Bourges, although especially famous for its magnificent cathedral, is a destination for knowledgeable travelers who also visit Jacques Coeur’s majestic palace, now a museum. The beautifully preserved mansion—a full block long--is a showcase of architectural splendor, containing among its fine appointments the first indoor water closet in France. It has a Gothic tower of carved stone, ornate relief and cornices, and Renaissance windows. The interior, which was furnished grandly, had lavishly carved chairs and tables, high canopied beds, wall tapestries above cushioned benches, huge cupboards and dressers, floors of polished oak or enameled tiles and enormous fireplaces—much of it intact and restored to its original grandeur. The Route—with grand chateaux all along the way that reflect Jacques Coeur’s palace--honors the financier for the wealth he helped create for his countrymen and king.
King Charles VII appointed Jacques Coeur as his financial adviser. In that capacity he succeeded in preserving the resources of the rich rather than depleting their wealth through taxation.
Through this time, Jacques Coeur remained a faithful supporter of Charles VII. He helped acquire money for the King’s causes--equipping a fleet that challenged the might of Venice, establishing firm banking practices, engaging fruitfully in the salt trade, and fostering the minting of money. Alas, as the King’s Grand Argentier (Minister of Finance), he was accused by the Inquisition of having signed a pact with the devil. The King deserted Jacques Coeur, a man he once revered and relied on, and had him imprisoned. King Charles took Jacques’ fortune after he had him arrested. Nonetheless, Route Jacques Coeur commemorates the wise and fair financial policies he instigated that allowed Frenchmen to establish and generate wealth. As a result of his policies, many aristocrats built chateaux in this region. Several of them, beautifully preserved and maintained by family members who still own and live in them, are open to the public. Unlike Coeur’s limited taxing practices, modern families have a heavy tax burden and open their homes to the public in order to help pay the revenue. These gracious hosts seem to genuinely enjoy welcoming guests into their historic monuments. Several offer lodging or a sumptuous repas with the Count and Countess or other titled persons who own them.
Countess Marie-France de Peyronnet is the official representative for the Route Jacques Coeur. The charming, gracious lady is the perfect person to represent the area. She was born and reared in Ainay-le-Vieil, the 50-room chateau her ancestors and family members have occupied since 1467. Part of the edifice is 10th century; however, the living quarters date from the Renaissance. Until her death, Madame de Peyronnet’s mother, Baroness Jeraud d’Aligny, entertained at luncheons in the chateau--an obligation now assumed by the countess. Among the historic objects displayed are a music box belonging to Marie Antoinette, a medallion given to the baroness’ family by Napoleon I and an imposing portrait of their ancestor, Jean Baptiste
Colbert, (a highly regarded statesman who served under King Louis XIV). King Louis XII also visited Le Chateau d’Ainay-le-Vieil, which represents several different eras of architectural style—including a fully preserved enclosing wall and moat from feudal times. The Renaissance chapel has murals from the 16th and 17th centuries that were recently restored. Residents, then and now, maintain their property. According to the Countess, aristocrats also were responsible for their own defense."The castle at Ainay-le-Vieil was a 10th century fortress and the owner was in service to the king," Marie-France explains. "In succeeding centuries, other portions were added to it, including the displacement of the dungeons to build the present residential structure. The whole structure exudes history and several rooms are open for public visits."
The rose garden is designed in the French style and based on ancient varieties. There are 150 representative varieties from the 15th century to roses of the present day. Four themes dictate the garden: the oldest and rarest varieties, the most sweetly scented, those named for celebrities and the new varieties. The developing garden continually changes and accommodates various exhibitions. (Please contact Madame Marie-France de Peyronnet, 1 rue Madame, 75006 Paris)
Another incomparable property to visit is Le Chateau de Meillant. Its history recalls times from the Roman occupation—complete with a furnished guard’s room, which appears to be the size of a football field. Meillant contains some of the most remarkable and richly decorated furnished rooms imaginable. Influenced by the French Renaissance, classical motifs are carved in the furniture panels which furnish many rooms—including the grand salon, library, and dining room. Elaborately carved and painted ceilings and wall decorations make the rooms extraordinarily beautiful.
The Chateau de Maupas was built in the 15th century by Jean Dumesnil Simon, bailiff and governor of the Berry province. Maupas was erected on the ancient site of a previous dwelling which first belonged to the historic family of Sullys (1248). Afterwards it was owned by the Mathefelons (14th century) and then the Rochechouarts (one of whom was a mistress of Louis XIV). Maupas became the property of Antoine Agard in 1682 for the sum of 36,000 francs paid in gold. He was ennobled by Louis XV in 1725. The Marquess Maupas opens several rooms to visitors: the different drawing rooms, a state bedroom, game room and an old kitchen. Maupas houses an unique collection of 887 faïence plates that are exhibited along the staircase wall. It also features Gobelins tapestries and other elaborate souvenirs.
For a truly unforgettable immersion in Renaissance times, stay at the Chateau de La Verrerie. Its history includes an alliance with the Scots that called for defending the king. In those days, one monarch swore allegiance to another to come to his aid. His word was his bond. In one such instance, France’s King Charles VII called on the Stuarts of Scotland to fulfill their word. They answered his call, won the battle for him and were rewarded with La Verrerie. Today, each distinctly and individually decorated room is comfortably equipped with a modern bathroom. Count de Vogue oversees this 15th century historical monument with gracious hospitality.
"We offer all the comfort and amenities of a first-class hotel and the special cachet of a private country home," he says. "Breakfast in bed, tennis, bicycling or walking through the forest and park that overlook the lake are just some of the amenities for our guests."
Also located in the park on the property is a restaurant. It is named La Maison d’Helene to honor the former nurse of the de Vogue children.
The count and his wife live on the property and are an excellent source of information on sightseeing in the area. (Comte et Comtesse A. de Vogüe, Chateau de la Verrerie, Oizon – 18700 Aubigny sur Nère, France)
Another chateau along the Route Jacques Coeur that welcomes overnight guests is Chateau de La Commanderie. The Count and Countess Bernard de Jouffroy-Gonsans offer their kind hospitality and welcome visitors to stay in the eight rooms that are available in their home. They also host the sumptuous dinners served to their guests in the well-appointed dining room. It is a small chateau by comparison, but the quality of the repas and company, and the sweet evenings on the terrace are rare experiences.
There is a noteworthy abbey on the Route Jacques Coeur. Noirlac is a Cistercian abbey founded in 1150 by Saint Bernard. It has been meticulously restored and is one of the finest examples of medieval, monastic architecture (11th to 14th centuries) to be found anywhere. Noirlac includes the church, cloister, capitular room, monks’ dormitory, refectory and a wine cellar.
There are many other interesting visits along the Route Jacques Coeur. I especially like to stop at the bakeries and cheese shops in the little towns along the way to buy the deliciously fresh products for a quick lunch. Or better yet, attend one of the Saturday markets and select a bottle of the local wine to accompany the goat cheeses brought to these affairs by the farmers.
The central geographic location of Cher in France in many respects symbolizes all that is best in the country. A varied garden of bucolic scenery, it has a rich and glorious past that bequeathed treasures preserved by its quietly fun-loving people.
Nature’s gifts abound. Game fill the forests, fish maneuver the many crystal clear streams and rivers, and vast plains stretch across the sun-covered hills to add to the varied setting of the tranquil countryside and picturesque villages. As the major producer of oilseeds in France, the region is a blaze of sunshine yellow when the rapeseed and sunflowers bloom.
Man has added his imprint by building historic monuments, châteaux and churches and they are along the scenic Route Jacques Coeur. A rich and glorious past has left treasures in the wake of events that tell its story.
ALONG THE ROUTE JACQUES COEUR (most properties are open from April to November. For information, please contact Marie-France de Peyronnet, 1 rue Madame, 75006 Paris, France, 011.33.1.45.44.19.77 or Xavier de Peronnet at Chateau d’Anaiy-le-Vieil )
LA BUSSIERE—The Chateau des Pêcheurs is isolated in a lake surrounded by a park designed by Le Notre. It is an ancient fortress that was restored in the 17th century.
GIEN—The first of Loire River castles along the route was built by Anne de Beaujeu in 1484. It is the home of the International Hunting Museum.
ARGENT-SUR-SAULDRE—The current chateau built by Victor Louis replaces the one built by Marie Sully in 1501. It houses the French Museum of Trades and Traditions, together with a collection of Gien earthenware.
BLANCAFORT—The Blancafort Chateau, built by the Boucard family in the 15th century, is on the site of ancient domain of the 11th century on the banks of the Sauldre River. Transformed in the 17th century, it contains fine examples of 17th and 18th century tapestries and a lovely French garden.
LA VERRERIE—The elegant Renaissance residence was built by Beraud Stuart of Scotland. The park contains a lake and forests. (contact Comte et Comtesse A. de Vogüe, Chateau de la Verrerie, Oizon – 18700 Aubigny sur Nère, France)
MAUPAS—Built in the 16th century, the chateau has mementos of the Duchess of Berry who lived there.
JUSSY-CHAMPGNE—Built in the 17th century under Louis XII, it is a model of brick and stone architecture in Berry. The two remarkable, arched, courtyard galleries are attributed to Berry native Claude Lejuge. In the 18th century, the ancestors of the current owners enhanced the apartments with paneling and piers while preserving the dining room’s magnificent 17th century, finely sculpted stone fireplace. There’s a collection of period garments.
MEILLANT—Prestigious Renaissance ensemble of rooms, including a grand salon, dining room and library sumptuously furnished. This chateau is remarkably beautiful.
NOIRLAC—A Cistercian Abbey, restored to perfection.
AINAY-LE-VIEL—A truly unique experience, the multi-period chateau has it all—from a feudal surrounding wall and moat, to Renaissance salons and an antique rose garden to the incomparable company of Countess de Peyronnet for a luncheon in her dining room.