Like other prime real estate, with vineyards it’s location, location, location. In the 1970s, few Europeans considered California a place for fine wine production. Nonetheless, Jean-Jacques Michel did. This far-sighted Swiss recognized Sonoma County’s potential, particularly a site in Dry Creek Valley. He purchased the land in 1979, terraced the hillsides and planted fifty acres to produce limited quantities of premium Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery, constructed in 1985, was named Domaine Michel, and the first wines, a 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 1986 Chardonnay, were released in 1987.

All bets were on the land. Over millions of years, the slow uplift of ancient river bottom deposits created the benchlands. With additional time, the nutrients were leached from these alluvial soils, leaving a challenging medium for growing most plants but a positive stress factor for grapevines. These deep, lean, rare soils produce grapes of intense flavor.

Approximately 27km from the Pacific Ocean and over California’s Coastal Range Mountains, the estate is situated between the Valley’s floor and the forested ridges on these benchlands. The unusual landforms are smoothly sloping, stepped hills that are remnants of geological benches. Laid out in a graceful array, these benches are uplifts of earth weathered and eroded by sun, wind and rain. It is as if Mother Nature, in a majestic gesture, contoured them for growing grapes.

Some soil diversity is conspicuous on these benchlands with evidence of two distinct soils eroded from different geologic epochs. Easy to recognize by color, the two primary soils have white sandstone and red volcanic origins. The gravelly, well-drained sandstone soil provides cabernet sauvignon with the warmth that it needs to develop ripe, fully flavored berries. More compact, the red volcanic soil benefits the chardonnay and satisfies the variety’s preference for cooler growing conditions. Most benches on the Michel-Schlumberger Estate face south and slightly east, giving the vines full exposure to the warm springtime sun and the orientation to the cooler morning sun of summer. Jean-Jacques Michel recognized the productive real estate.

He named the property Domaine Michel because he envisioned a European-modeled estate that would grow grapes and make the wine. Additionally, and to honor the history of the property, the facility was built with a mission-style architecture that reflected Spain’s significance in early California--white stucco walls, tile roofs, a bell tower, a Moorish window and a grand courtyard.

The Moorish window became the logo. The actual window is located on the side of the winery next to the courtyard. It reflects what the architect calls "California Mission Revival," particularly evident at a mission at Carmel. The Moors made excursions into Spain and left part of their culture. Ultimately, the Franciscans brought the window design element into California and it became part of California’s architectural heritage; hence, the winery logo.

A friend of Jean-Jacques Michel, Jacques Schlumberger, was influenced by his family's 400-year-Alsatian-wine heritage and joined the venture in 1991. He set the stage for the now renamed Michel-Schlumberger Benchland Wine Estate (M-S). Since 1993, Schlumberger has directed the wine property, continuing Michel’s commitment to small lots of wine imprinted with the property’s terroir--the superb benchland fruit.

Fred Payne joined the enterprise in 1989 and manages the vineyards as well as the cellar. In 1971 he was working as a chemist for the United States Department of Agriculture’s Subtropical Fruit and Vegetable Laboratory. Consequently, he was invited to participate on panels studying sensory evaluation with chemists trained in oenology.

"I was captivated by the sensorial topics—appearance, aroma, and taste—and found the oenologist’s view of the world fascinating," he says. "I decided to go to graduate school at the University of California at Davis where I studied food science, biochemistry, oenology and viticulture. Afterwards I was privileged to be associated with some of the best winemakers in California, my mentors: Mike Grgich, Warren Winiarski and Andre Tchelistcheff. "

Until recently, it had been several years since I had visited Michel-Schlumberger and I was delighted with all that’s happening. Fred is making elegant wines, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, but he also has two new wines--Syrah and Pinot Blanc. We tasted the current new varietals, foreign wines that Michel-Schlumberger is marketing, and toured soon-to-be-planted vineyards as well as the older ones. The duet of winemaker and this benchland property is producing some lovely fruit-driven, food friendly wines across the board. They exhibited approachable varietal frankness with richness and balance.

Part of the credit is given to the vintages. There were several good ones during the decade of the 1990s.

"1997 was a vintage for up-front, fruit-driven wine, the kind that syrah especially likes," Fred explains. "We always pick our fruit for its flavor."

This particular Michel-Schlumberger Syrah is a unique interpretation of Rhone wine because it is blended with Zinfandel rather than Grenache or Mourvedre as in France.

"This is the second vintage and we’re learning where the market is and how to express the flavors of these varieties," Fred says.

With the growing population of wines in the world, Jacques believes there is often an increasing sameness among wines, and one of their exciting adventures at M-S is to express Fred’s skills as well as where the grapes come from—climate and temperature variation, soil differences; i.e., terroir.

According to Jacques, they are on a journey of rediscovery. Fred found an old French clone that was brought to the U.S. in 1870s—an antique cabernet clone that was part of an experiment discontinued at U.C. Davis due to Prohibition. It recently resurfaced, and although untended for years, the vines were thriving, virus-free and had survived phylloxera—if indeed there had been any. The clone has been planted experimentally in Napa. It’s a shy bearer with slightly unpredictable flavors and an unreliable production each year. But following its development is part of their adventure.

"Our passion is to express cabernet flavors to their fullest potential and what each clone may contribute to those flavors," Fred says. "Clones give their unique personalities to the wine. What’s fascinating to me is that here in California we’ve arrived at a point where we have antique varieties. People tend to think of California as ‘New World,’ but we have these aged clones which qualify as antique."

Part of the expansion at Michel-Schlulmberger includes the production of Pinot Blanc, a wine they think is often misunderstood. The Alsatian Schlumbergers have been making Pinot Blanc for generations and Jacques wanted to express the best that Pinot Blanc has to offer from California.

"Merlot is another good example of what we’re doing," Fred adds. "We’re looking at other varietals to blend with Merlot, such as Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carmenére. They help establish nuances of quality. And there’s a marvelous interaction among those who grow, make, publicize and sell wines that has a way of widening possibilities and encouraging new discoveries."

Partly modern naturalist and partly old-fashioned farmer, he strongly believes Michel-Schlumberger wines are representative of their soil, climate and grape.

"The benchland’s climate offers warm, dry summer days so grapes ripen and develop fully," Fred says. "Breezy evenings and foggy mornings, created by the Pacific Ocean 17km away, encourage the grapes to build substantial structure."

Additionally, Michel-Schlumberger reserve wines are based on a specific part of the vineyard. They will always be wines that demand age and will improve with aging.

The following notes are from our tasting.

MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon: Concentrated aromas and flavors of blackberry and cherry, tea and aromatic spice, a bit of smoky, balanced with a long finish. Long ripening season, small crop and a dry harvest are marks of this great cabernet vintage.

MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER 1994 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: Depth of black cherry and currant flavors, some spice, tar and cedar, hint of pomegranate and plum with green tea smokiness, long, lush finish. Enjoy now or cellar a few years.

MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER 1997 Syrah: The Syrah is a secret blend with just a little zinfandel and voignier to give it expansive fruit tones. Big and mouth-filling wine, it is soft on the palate, with flavors of ripe fruit, earth and smoke.

MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER 1996 Merlot: Aromatic and classic in style, full of ripe fruit with balance and finesse, blackberry, dried iris, nutmeg.

MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER 1998 Pinot Blanc: The benchland twist gives the wine its tropical fruit aroma with citrus blossoms, apricots, banana and orange. It complements many fresh-flavored foods and spicy types.

MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER 1997 Chardonnay: The 1997 expresses a powerfully ripe Chardonnay with contrasting delicate aromas--citrus and pineapple highlighted by floral blossoms, smoky hazelnut and flint impressions, nice complex aftertaste. Complex flavors will age nicely for several years.