KCBX WINE CLASSIC 2000:Cabernet Franc, Bordeaux style Brunch, Sunday, July 16, 2000, with a panel of experts and dinner at SEVEN PEAKS WINERY
Once again one of my favorite proverbs proves true. It says, "Three things are important in life: someone to love, something to do and something to hope for." The last item is fulfilled in Santa Barbara County for those searching for a delicious, well-made Cabernet Franc wine. Santa Barbara County is brimming with excellent Cabernet Francs. This year at the KCBX Wine Classic, among the many excellent events and programs, we tasted delicious Cabernet Francs at a Sunday Brunch at the Cliffs Hotel.Panel Moderator Patrick Will believes the interest in all Bordeaux varieties (cabernet franc is one) has been spread throughout the world by Cabernet Sauvignon wine. "It’s the most famous grape variety while merlot is the most widely planted. They ripen at different times, depending on the weather, and staggering provides a protective hedge for the crop. Cabernet franc adds more characteristics to a blended Bordeaux wine. Here it shows well on its own too. Wines should show their terroir—whether France, California or wherever they’re from, and no one wine region is best."
Bryan Babcock says of his wine, the 1998 Fathom Cabernet Franc, $30: "Fathom is Cabernet Franc and it has featured it for some time. Most people have thought of Santa Barbara as a grape region for pinot noir. Next, it was syrah. Now it’s turned to the Bordeaux varietals. I was a skeptic at first. I wanted to make Sangiovese and the Italians were blending it with cabernet sauvignon so I said, okay, if that’s what I need to do to make a good Sangiovese, so be it. So I planted Bordeaux and I found out how good the Cabernet Franc tasted. In St. Emilion it’s the dominant grape—and the reason is the soil. My program is open ended—to make Cabernet Franc the best wine possible. Santa Inez is a maritime valley and offers infinite opportunities: pinot noir, syrah, and now cabernet franc. I see a much greater influence coming from this grape in Santa Barbara County, down the line." (SJE tasting notes read: lovely aromatics, perfumy fruit-forward, boysenberry cobbler, ripe and rich—nice palate feel, it’s a fabulous, luscious wine, loved it!)
Stephen Bedford says of his wine, the 1997 Bedford Thompson Cabernet Franc $20, "We thought we had a wonderful opportunity here with Cabernet Franc. My partner’s vineyard has low vigor, reaches ripeness as low sugar; there’s a lot of stress to the vines and we keep alcohol low to avoid imbalance. We do open top fermentation and barrel aging and no fining." (SJE notes read:complexity, dusty, hay, toasty, empyreumatic, char-oak, subtle plum, subtle herbals, mild leather, tea, dry, tightly structured.) Steve Glossner says of the 1997 Adelaida Res.Cabernet Franc, Viking Ranch (single vineyard) $40, "The vineyard is key. I've been winemaker for 1= years. My family owns 2000 acres west of Paso Robles. It looked like the worst possible place to grow grapes—25% grade on rocky soil (pH 8), and produces a unique style of wines. It allows closer spacing, smaller yields per vine and smaller vines produce wines with a lot of power. But the site determines wine power more than anything. Natural yeasts are used. We treat it like a white wine. It’s on 110 R rootstock." (SJE notes read: Adelaida is beautifully aromatic, coconut, gardenia, medley of ripe berries, perfumy, chewy sweet tannins, concentrated—and it’s only a barrel sample!) Jacques Lurton presented his 1998 Araucano Cabernet Franc, Chile. He says, "Pacific Ocean influences vines. We fight herbaceousness (due to cool nights) and try to locate where there are warmer nights. We need high sugars to find the right phenolic ripeness—25 brix. This wine is from a difficult year." (SJE notes read: subtle nose, empyreumatic, understated herbal nose, forest floor, hints of earth, unctuous, mushroom.) Winemaker Craig Macmillan says of his 1997 Stolpman 55%Cabernet Franc/45% Merlot, Santa Inez Valley, $25 (660 cases) "I think we have a long to go with the Bordeaux varietals because of the American palate. I think we come from a varietal- centric view but around the world it is not necessarily so. I’ve been drawn more and more to cabernet franc, but in cooler areas you’re not going to get the high sugars. It starts out herbal and goes toward spice. I like the synthetic closures—wines age more slowly with them (I want to remove the CO2 and gaseousness that cork mitigates)." (SJE notes read: stunning wine, perfumy, big and rounded, complex nose, fruit forward, integrated, nice oak, tea, chocolate, mocha, multiple berries, ripe and spicy, lovely and elegant, balanced, tight but luscious tannins.) "Dinner at Seven Peaks Winery" I discovered the delightful food of Chef Rick a couple of years ago at the KCBX Wine Classic. It seemed he was preparing hors d'oeuvres or luncheon or dinner at every event I attended. Little did I know when I selected Seven Peaks Winery (www.7peaks.com) for the KCBX Winery Dinner event that Chef Rick had been hired, so I was doubly blessed--excellent and delicious wines with a superb dinner.