Champagnes & Sparklers
Celebrating the Millennium Continuum

Billions of miniscule bubbles tingled palates at midnight to celebrate the third millennium.  It was a rare moment of accord shared by multitudes during the last 1000 years. How nice that a lovely wine sparkled the occasion.

Champagnes and other sparkling wines have been acclaimed as the official celebratory wine for centuries. The position is without challenge as there are truly no contenders.   But why limit yourself--the celebration of  life should continue daily.    While you many not want a bottle of bubbly everyday--you just might, so there’s a good selection.  Méthode champenoise (these words on the label mean the best quality) sparkling wines from California and elsewhere and, of course, the irresistible champagnes from Champagne, France (the only region entitled to use champagne on its labels) give plenty of choices.  Like many things, wines have their top-of-the-line products. For champagnes and sparkling wines, the category is called prestige cuvée, tête de cuvée or grande marque.

Additionally, sparkling wines made in other areas of France, like the Loire, cannot call the wine champagne and must use the term traditional method instead of méthode champenoise. Nonetheless, firms like Gratien & Meyer of Saumur, Loire, make top-quality sparkling wines that are delicious. Try the Gratien & Meyer Fleur de Lys Brut and the Cuvee Renaissance Brut. This family has not neglected champagne either. Champagne Alfred Gratien includes Alfred Gratien Brut, the Cuvee Paradis Brut and the Vintage Brut. A lovely array to brighten the millennium festivities.

Among champagne houses, there were exclusive events earlier in the year, including Clicquot’s dinner at France’s Château de Versailles for bons vivants from over 100 countries. If you missed that event, plan your own. Best known by its full name, Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, it is one of the oldest and most respected Champagne Houses. The wines have remained high quality since it began with only 5,000 bottles in the 1770s—now selling ten million bottles.

The remarkable Madame Clicquot was the first woman to rise to power in Champagne. In an age when commerce was considered socially improper for women, the young widow assumed control of her husband’s family’s Cha mpagne House and guided it to a position of worldwide renown. Because of her constant work and innovations, the House is one of the most successful of all the great Champagne Houses. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Le Grand Dame is a lovely wine to herald any occasion.

The Champagne Roederer Cristal celebration was held in the Roederer cellars for the dated, specially designed Methuselahs--2000 of the numbered and embossed bottles were reserved in numerical order for their collectors. The Methuselahs sold out the year they were offered; however, some have been available at auctions for those wanting to acquire one. The limited production of 2000 will never be duplicated as the mold was broken for the bottle. Roederer began planning for the Millennium in 1990 by saving this vintage wine in the large bottles—equivalent of eight 750 ml bottles. While "Roederer Cuvée 2000" may not grace your table, other fine Champagne Roederer can still enhance it: the Roederer Brut Premier, Brut Rosé and regular bottle of Cristal.

Perrier-Jouët created an enticing millennium package with the unique opportunity of being a guest at Maison Belle Epoque in Epernay. This charming house has been restored beautifully and precisely to the period of its production. The United States received half the special package allocations, 1,000 of them, costing $2000 each. The millennium packages contain a hand-numbered Jeroboam (three liters) of Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Réserve Belle Époque 1995 covered with platinum and gold anemones in a beech-wood box and a one night stay with dinner for two at Champagne Perrier-Jouët's 18th century guesthouse, Maison Belle Epoque, for the year 2000 or 2001.  It may not be too late to participate.

Mumm Cordon Rouge was the official Champagne of Greenwich Meridian 2000. Located at the Old Royal Observatory in Greenwich, U.K., it's the home of the Prime Meridian, whereGreenwich Mean Time (GMT) is set. Since time is measured from this point, Greemwich launched the new millennium officially and made Mumm Cordon Rouge a proper choice for the celebration.  Mumm, a top-selling Champagne in America, is right for many celebrations.

Sometimes people say they don’t like champagne when in reality they just don’t care for that particular style. Champagne houses have specific measurements for dry-to-sweet designations that are accepted internationally. They are determined by the "dosage" or "liqueur d’expédition"(a syrup of sugar dissolved in wine). It’s added to each bottle at the end of the winemaking process and determines the degree of perceptible sweetness. Author Tom Stevenson in his excellent new book, Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine, shows the "Sweetness Chart."

In America, the longest reigning monarch among California méthode champenoise sparkling wines is Korbel. Established in 1882, the bubbly has been served longer and more abundantly than any other American sparkling wine.  As the first global sponsor for New York’s millennium celebration, Korbel was the exclusive sparkling wine for the "Times Square 2000" New Year Eve’s celebration. When the Big Apple’s crystal ball descended, celebrants toasted their futures with Korbel.  You may continue to do so throughout 2000.  Like most sparkling wines, Korbel varies in style and taste, ranging from very dry to perceptible sweetness. Korbel Vintage Blanc de Noirs is very dry and made from 100% pinot noir grapes. Korbel Natural is dry, a balance of chardonnay and pinot noir, and pairs well with fish, chicken or pork dishes. Korbel Brut is medium dry, crisp and light and goes well with almost any food.

Several Champagne houses, beginning with Moët et Chandon’s Domaine Chandon in 1974, have established wineries in California. Domaine Chandon Winemaker Dawnine Dyer has watched the evolution and her latest wines show the progress. The Carneros Blanc de Noirs and the étoile are lovely examples of Dawnine’s winemaking skills. Chandon’s prestige cuvée, étoile, blends several vintages to achieve and highlight the best from the vineyards--delicate and rich with lean crispness. The bottle is hand-decorated in 22 karat gold, silk screened letters, brushed right on the bottle. Stunning! The étoile has limited production, but Domaine Chandon has released other wines for the holidays, the Blanc de Noirs and the Brut.

Pacesetter Moët started a trend that encouraged other French houses. More recently in 1987, Champagne Taittinger founded Domaine Carneros. Uniquely, Domaine Carneros is the only winery to produce méthode champenoise sparkling wines exclusively from Carneros viticultural area grapes-- generally 6-8º Celsius cooler than other parts of the counties. Carneros produces outstanding chardonnay and pinot noir, the principal grapes used in making champagne and sparkling wines. Managing Director/Winemaker Eileen Crane said Domaine Carneros produces two types of sparkling wine--Brut Vintage and the prestige cuvée, Le Rêve. The Brut is made in the classic style of 60 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent Chardonnay and exemplifies Carneros: honey, apples, pears, citrus, exotic spice, a creamy texture. Le Rêve is a Blanc de Blancs, 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Blanc, an exceptionally full-bodied and rich wine offering aromas of orange blossoms, citrus, peaches and white flowers.   "My wines exemplify complexity, depth and elegance," Crane says. "Our philosophy is to use only the finest grapes and to preserve and enhance their flavors."

Iron Horse Vineyards’ Forrest Tancer makes lovely and extraordinary sparkling wine. The winemaker and co-partner with Audrey and Barry Sterling knows his vineyards and his grapes intimately and crafts his wines accordingly. Drinking them is an elevating experience. Awards have been extravagant: the Iron Horse 1993 Russian Cuvée received "91" points and was named in the Wine Spectator Best-of-the-Year issue; the Iron Horse 1991 Blanc de Blancs received "90" points and was named in Wine Enthusiast Best-of-the-Year issue. There are several to choose among: Brut Rose, Classic Vintage Brut, Russian Cuvée, Vrais Amis—all delicious and pleasing, but I’m a little partial to the Blanc de Blancs.

Another admired winemaker is Michel Saluges of Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California--the American property of Champagne Louis Roederer. What a uniquely talented winemaker this man is! Qualifying as a prized gift is his sparkling L’Ermitage. This regal bottle, embossed with its heraldic RE for Roederer Estate, exhibits the years that went into the wine’s making and reflects the historical association between the parent firm and Russia and the founder’s love of  art. The mouthfilling bubbles enhance its refined flavors. Roederer Estate also produces an excellent Anderson Valley Brut, definitely a wine to buy by the case.

The Ferrer family's Spanish firm of Freixenet is the world’s largest producer of méthode champenoise.  It created something special for the millenium—a limited bottling, Cordon Negro Estate Brut, in a black bottle with a brass crest, in a black pouch with a "Cuvée 2000" medallion. Whether or not it's still available, the rare estate-crafted wine, set a new standard for Winemaker Joseph Buján as he fashioned the culmination of three generations of family winemaking heritage. The wine has fine, persistent bubbles, an excellent mousse, aromas of green apples and citrus, a  silky finish and bodes well for this millennium's celebrations.

Mumm Cuvee Napa, the California property of Champagne G.H. Mumm, produces several sparkling wines, including its own celebratory bottle--Mumm Cuvée Napa 21st Century Cuvée. The sparkling, méthode champenoise wine is creamy and elegant with a supple structure. It is widely available.  Look for the Mumm Cuvee Napa Prestige and the Blanc de Noirs or Brut bottles.

Pacific Echo is a terrific sparkling wine from Mendocino's Anderson Valley.   Winemakaer Tex Sawyer says "We want fruit expression to the greatest extent possible.  It requires a lot of decision making--when to pick for optimal balance, which lots to blend and in what proportions, how long to age, and so forth."   Tex has made a lot of right decisions.  You'll enjoy all Pacific Echo wines: Brut, Brut Rose, Blanc de Blancs and Vintage Reserves.

Milla Handley is another excellent Anderson Valley winemaker.  Her elegant sparkling wines make  daily coifing a must.  Her well-made w ines go with any kind of food.  There are two delicious Handley sparklers: Brut, Brut Rose and Blanc de Blancs.  Enjoy these lovely wines.

I like sparkling wines with all types of food. It truly accompanies almost everything. As for a proper temperature, you can pull a bottle right out of the refrigerator and enjoy it, although some people like it slightly warmer—48-50 degrees. Flutes make perfect glasses for all sparkling wines, allowing a constant stream or bead of tiny bubbles to tickle your palate and your fancy. While it will age well under the proper conditions, why bother when it drinks so beautifully upon release.

Sparkling wine is the Renaissance wine for all seasons. May you celebrate life each day--often with sparkling wines.