The Central Coast Wine Classic
1997 Report  *  1998 Report

San Luis (pronounced loo-iss ) Obispo is a mouthful—not only to say, but also for savoring some of Central Coast California’s best flavors and sights. Annually in July that opportunity is enhanced at the Central Coast Wine Classic (CCWC) in San Luis Obispo, one of the most popular festivals anywhere. It raises money for Public Radio KCBX and expresses an unusual camaraderie among the art and wine communities. The CCWC is one of my favorite events and a delightful time to discover or become reacquainted with wines, foods and facilities of the area. There are eight days to do it with offerings of special experiences like dining at the Hearst Castle or soaking in Sycamore Mineral Springs hot baths, walking a beach or golf course, and visiting museums, missions, restaurants and enjoying the local beauty.

A delightful resort, Sycamore Mineral Springs and Spa, is perfectly situated for attending all the KCBX Wine Classic events and enjoying free moments exceedingly well. It has ample and relaxing comfort, individual patio jacuzzis for all guest quarters, several redwood hot tubs scattered in various outdoor settings and delicious food—I ate the oat bran pancakes three days in a row. It’s a private place that encourages relaxing. John Kennedy, Jr. and his bride were there and no one bothered them.

Another good place to stay is The Cliffs at Shell Beach. The oceanfront resort hotel overlooks the Pacific and the balcony terraces off each room are a perfect place to watch the incomparable sunsets. There’s a fully equipped fitness center and dry sauna and an indoor/outdoor Jacuzzi and elevated oceanside swimming pool, both heated for year-round enjoyment. Buses depart from here for the various CCWC functions.

The 1997 event first Monday night celebrated New Orleans’ tradition of red beans and rice; however, this version included zinfandels and dancing to the Zydeco Zippers’ Cajun music while suppin’ and high steppin’ beside the Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, founded in 1772. Memorable zinfandels I tasted were Creston Vineyards (fresh with forward fruit), Lolonis Winery (nicely textured and rich), Saucelito Canyon Vineyard (big, full-bodied and intense flavors), Wild Horse Winery (concentrated fruitiness and delicious) and Meridian (spicy and smooth).

The Magnum Opus Art Reception, a joint fund-raising activity for the San Luis Obispo Art Center and KCBX, was held at the Art Center and displayed the work of finalists in the 1997 Commemorative Label Contest. The two winning images (one wine and one vineyard theme) were reproduced on labels of the 1996 Foxen Vineyard Chardonnay and 1995 Foxen Vineyard Syrah represented by two Salmanazars, nine-liter bottles (equivalent to a case of wine), and sold at the auction. Owners Dick Doré and Bill Wathen were honored this year for their winemaking skills and these two wines show why they were.

For Platinum Package purchasers, the special event was dinner orchestrated by Chef Jacques Pépin at the Hearst Castle. Imagine dining on the terrace beside the Neptune Pool as a crescent moon appears in an azure-sapphire, star-speckled sky while enjoying Maison Deutz sparkling wines, Chateau Raymond-Lafon Sauternes, Cambria Chardonnay, Foxen Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Justin Winery Cabernet Franc and Creston Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. The evening was spectacular.

Several wineries hosted dinners and I attended the one at Edna Valley Vineyards held in the attractive new Visitor’s Center. Chef Rick Manson of Chef Rick’s Ultimately Fine Food in Santa Maria created the delicious food to accompany the delicious wines: Edna Valley Vineyards Reserve Paragon Chardonnay, Reserve Paragon Pinot Noir, Brut Sparkling and the Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc.

At the Barrel Tasting and Artists’ Reception the guests had the opportunity to sample barrel wines blended by pairs of Central Coast vintners especially for the auction. Also, there was a Vintner’s Golf Tournament, Vineyards Symposium at Justin, Cooking and Luncheon with Jacques Pépin at the Gardens of Avila, Classic Cuvée and Vintage Dinner Dance and something interesting happening hourly.

The CCWC Rare and Fine Wine Auction draws several hundred bidders and one highlight among the more than 200 lots was a composite donation by winemakers Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery, Chuck Ortman of Meridian Vineyards and Ken Volk of Wild Horse Winery. The winning bid of $4000 went for six-persons joining the three entertaining vintners in a progressive dinner, driven by limousine to each winery for its food course and wines.

Author-historian Gerald Asher moderated a symposium on Bordeaux varietals with vintners who use those varietals: Dan Blackburn, Bernardis Vineyards; Bret Davenport, Buttonwood Farm Winery; Victor Hugo Robert, Creston Winery; Gary Eberle, Eberle Winery; Alison Doran, Firestone Vineyard; Bill Wathen and Dick Doré, Foxen Vineyard; Justin Baldwin, Justin Winery and Toby Shumrick, Tobin James Cellars.

Asher began with some background history on Bordeaux and comments.

"There’s no such thing as the best wine in the world," he says. "There are only many good and different interpretations."

Asher described the Bordeaux varietals in what he suggested was a "broad brush sort of way," explaining that we don’t know for sure what exact varietals were used in the 18th century because no one recorded the names. "The vintners knew."

Until the end of the 18th century, casks stored the wines. Bottles were used like carafes to bring wine up from the cellar to the table. Oak for casks came from the Baltic. A blockade of ports after the French Revolution cut out shipments of Baltic oak and the Bordelais were forced to use French oak. The British, who were the main customers, liked the flavors. Then cabernet sauvignon became a major Bordeaux varietal because its stronger skin resisted rot and worked well with the French oak. The varietal does not age well in hard soils with poor drainage, so merlot was added to help the taste.

"These varietals were used purely for agricultural reasons," Asher says. "They were not original to the area or used to fulfill some recipe for making Bordeaux wines.

When the Bordeaux varietals were planted in California, they had so much lively vigor that they grew and aged in a different way. "They always had a degree of ripeness that the Bordelais could only hope for," Asher says. "Merlot grows very differently in California than in France. It grows to maturity and can every bit as big and tannic as cabernet sauvignon."

Several panelists fielded questions. In response to a question about the word "reserve" on labels, "Reserve is one of the worst words in our industry," Eberle says. "It should be used with reserve."

Asher explained that only in Spain does "reserva" have any legal meaning. There is no definite meaning when it is used elsewhere. Generally, it implies that a wine has received special quality attention.

Another attendee asked why merlot was so popular and a couple of the panelists had fun with the question.

Jim Clendenen says, "Tom told Mary told Sue told Pete told Joe told Ann . . . "

Eberle added that merlot was easier to remember and pronounce than cabernet sauvignon.

Asher believes merlot has different types of tannins. "The balance among the various tannins is much easier than in cabernet sauvignon," he says. "It has a chance to evolve—as does cabernet—but differently.

Clendenen thinks most of the improvements in merlot and in making wine generally have come from the improvements in raw material and mechanized equipment. "Clones have improved wines enormously," he says. "We’re all debutantes at winemaking. We’re going to eclipse all the progress we’ve made in the last 20 years during the upcoming 20 to 50 years. The burden we have to avoid is to rest on our laurels when we know success. We have to continue to learn."

In Asher’s opinion, California has "locked itself in with using varietals to distinguish among wines." He thinks that calling a wine by its varietal name does not describe all the nuances.

"One must use the American Viticultural Areas (AVA) and make clear what we’re producing," he says. "Characteristics between viticultural areas need to be described and explained—like between Paso Robles and Napa."

Eberle explained that he takes as much of the character of the grape from the vineyard as possible.

"I do little blending because if you’re making a varietal wine, I think the best way to express that wine is with 100% of the cabernet sauvignon," he says. "I miss the fruit in older bottles, and while I can appreciate tasting the evolution of the wine in process, I miss the fruit that younger wines have. I think the 1991 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon will be at its peak in 2000."

Ron and Dolores Bononi, regular CCWC attendees who live in San Luis Obispo County, raved about the Bordeaux Symposium.

"We enjoy supporting KCBX," Bononi says. "Executive Director Archie McLaren does a great job putting this event together and because of his organization, things run smoothly. We live here near the wine country so we go to something every month and this event is by far the most relaxing and rewarding," he says. "In the last 10 years Central Coast wines have made the biggest inroads in wine quality among California appellations. We can hardly wait to return to this event next year to taste more."

CCWC Wines