Austin Restaurants, Jeffrey's and Shoreline Grill JEFFREYS, 1204 West Lynn Street, 512/447-5584, SHORELINE GRILL, 98 San Jacinto Blvd., 477-3300 (Eclectic menu and views of Town Lake.)
Im delighted that eating is mandatory. As mentioned in my book (SHARING is UNNATURAL), ), Im planning lunch while I finish breakfast.Austin wasnt always the best place to live for a large selection of fine restaurants. The 1990s changed that fact with a majority of stunning eating emporiums being created. Even before then, however, some Austin restaurateurs had fortuitous insight. As Jeffreys brochure records, "A passion for friendship, food and wine fed the genesis of Jeffreys restaurant."
Jeffrey Weinberger and Peggy and Ron Weiss, who enjoy a 25-year-relationship, met while attending the University of Texas at Austin. They formed a partnership in 1975 and have established two of Austins finest dining experiencesJeffreys and Shoreline Grill.
"We pooled our interests, talents and enthusiasm with three other pals to open an intimate neighborhood bistro like those wed encountered in our travels," Peggy says. "Jeffreys became part of the first wave of new American cuisine in the 1980s. Its evolved into a superb dining room. We like to say that Jeffreys is distinguished by a homegrown glamour that combines casual, understated elegance with a serious kitchen and sophisticated dishes."
Friendly service is another plus. It begins when Manager Jim Laine greets me warmly at the door. Ive had the pleasure of dining at Jeffreys for 20 years and I still have the same waiter. Not many places can claim that kind of loyalty. Part of it, no doubt, comes from being able to serve Chef David Garridos exemplary dishes.
Chef Garrido, son of a Mexican diplomat, was born in Canada, grew up in Mexico, Puerto Rico and Costa Rico, and was schooled in Switzerlandwhich explains his worldly palate. He became Jeffreys executive chef in 1991, originating a culinary style that blends Southwest and Latin tastes masterfully with a continental technique that pairs beautifully with wine. A Parisian girlfriend introduced him to the high art of French cooking when he visited her in Paris. Thats when he decided he wanted to be a chef. Back in Texas, David worked for two of Texas most noteworthy chefs: Bruce Alden of Biga in San Antonio and Stephen Pyles of Star Canyon in Dallas..
"Of all the talented chefs," Stephen Pyles remarks, "who have run my kitchen, no one has ever shown a greater depth of passion and knowledge than David. An intuitive chef composes menus like symphonies, so individual ingredients come together in harmonious blends and vibrant explosions of flavors. David is just such a chef."
The Jeffreys menu is a delight. For a beginning course try the Sherry Corn Chowder, Wild Sorrel & Smoked Salmon, the Crispy Oysters on Yucca Root Chips with Habanero Honey Aïoli or (Im tempted to say and) the Fois Gras with Cannelli Bean Crostini, Mangos & 100-Year-Old Balsamic. Entrees are magical: Hawaiian Ono & Dungeness Crab with Spinach Risotto & Mango Guajillo Salsa, or Herb Crusted Halibut with Pepper Linguine, Mushrooms, & Leek Champagne Sauce, or Ribeye with Sweet Potato Stuffed Poblano & Horseradish Onion Sauce or Lamb T-Bone with Eggplant Ricotta Tart & Porcini Marsala Sauce. Take a crowd and try them all. And, save room for the Warm Huckleberry Cake with Rum Macadamia Ice Cream or Jeffrey's Coffee Crème Brûlée with Chocolate Hazelnut Biscotti & Espresso Beans.
Factor in extra time to peruse the wine menu275 wines. Ron has created a wine list that receives annual awards from The Wine Spectatorand has been doing so since 1991. Red wines number 125 with 39 imported, white wines number 114 with 36 imported. The list includes 27 sparkling winesfour from California and eight dessert wines. Theres a reserve list (with 48 total) for those who want to spend between $105 and $300 for a bottle of California wine and up to $425 for a Bordeaux Grand Crus. Most diners, however, will be pleased to see Caymus Conundrum $48, Murphy-Goode Sauvignon Blanc $27, Jekel Gravelstone Chardonnay $25, Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay $64, Alexander Valley Vineyards or the Chateau Souverain Merlot $37, Acacia Carneros Pinot Noir $46, Peterson Dry Creek Zinfandel $38, R.H. Phillips EXP Syrah $42, and Clos du Val Napa Cabernet Sauvignon $52. And you can enjoy a bottle of Champagne Perrier Jouët NV Brut for $60 and Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin NV Brut for $62.
With Jeffreys up and running to a standing-room crowd, the team turned their eyes toward a defunct lake restaurant property. The result was Shoreline Grill.
In the heart of Austin, Shoreline is on the Town Lake portion of the Colorado River and owes part of its popularity to location. There just seems to be something mesmerizing about water. Whether its a lake, river, ocean, pond or pool, people love to be close to water. Finding unique dining in a thriving downtown area by the water is one attraction for locals as well as visitors. And while the setting may entice diners initially, its the food that merits their return.Jeff Weinberger agrees. "Weve worked hard for our good reputation. After studying the number of customers we had to turn away, we increased our space at Shoreline to include private meeting facilities. As with our other diners, our goal is to make certain your business or entertainment events turn out beautifully. We stay busy."
Shoreline Grill attracts tourists and conventioneers and the satisfied customers have spread the good news. Austin dwellers share the enthusiasm.
"Just look!" says one guest. "Austinites spend a lot of time outdoors, and this balcony dining is the best of both worlds. Views are important, but Austin has many of them so excellent food has to cinch the deal. The Prime Rib is the best in Austin."Chef Dan Haverty explained his philosophy about food.
"We prepare food in the classical method with a contemporary presentation," Dan says. "Representative dishes are our prime rib, fresh fish and Parmesan Chicken."
By popular demand, the Parmesan Chicken has stayed on the menu since Shoreline opened. I must say, Im partial to the dish--always deliciously moist and flavorful. Selected dishes, including the specials, show how the sauces accentuate Southwest and Texas cuisine; such as the chicken fried steak with its creamy topping and the guajillo-sauced prime-rib enchiladas.
Shortcuts arent used at Shoreline. Dan says all their sauces get particular attention. For example, Dan makes chicken velouté with fresh chicken stock to garnish the chicken fried steaknot your run-of-the-mill gravy.
"Many restaurants use canned stock because its quicker and easier," Dan says. "But when you throw away the chicken stock and bones, you toss out the flavor. All our sauces are made from scratch. We cook our demi-glace for 36 hours. Our dishes have inherent flavors complemented with regional ingredientsfor example, ancho chillis and cajeta (goats milk caramel)."
Dan likes to call his food "Texas Interior."
"By that I mean that the end product has our Austin stamp," Dan says. "Were in one of the most dynamic cities in America and one of the countrys fastest growing high tech areas. We use local productslike Mozzarella Company cheeses, Gulf shrimp, Texas blue crab, etc. But well order out of state for the best, freshest product."
Shoreline Grill is enjoyed by Austin's business community, out-of-towners and anyone interested in elegant, relaxed dining.
For a starter, try Pecan Smoked Mozzarella & Sundried Tomato Relishgenuine smoked flavors enhanced by the tasty tomato relish, or the Potato Crusted Shrimp with Ancho Barbecue Saucethis crust puts real crispiness around the crunch of plump shrimp on a bed of shredded napa cabbage tossed with basil serrano aioli, such a delicous touch. As an entrée is the Parmesan Crusted Chickenalways succulent, or the Grilled Tuna with Corn Noodles and Cranberry Serrano Sauce. Then there are Pastry Chef Alba Estenoz irresistible desserts. Ive eaten all of them. Anything you choose will be delightful: Crème Brûlée with Vanilla Bean Flecks, the Chocolate Intemperance--layers of Grand Marnier dark chocolate mousse and milk chocolate mousse over a layer of chocolate and hazelnut cake or Coconut & Mocha Cake or Orange, Cinnamon & Chocolate Dome.
The wine list has many fine choices to accompany your meal, and theres a full bar to satisfy any other beverage preferences.
Eclectic and healthy, the menu at Shoreline overflows with style and flavor.