Alaska is amazing. It’s the most different place I’ve ever visited. Ultimate in natural beauty, Alaska remains predominantly wilderness and encourages mankind’s irresistible urge to see, to know and to understand. It is estimated that man has altered less than one percent of it.         In the summer the sun shines almost all the time, depending on the location. It’s invigorating. Life is lively.        In the winter, it’s mostly dark. But the aurora borealis makes adagios across the blackness in creeping pinks, blues, and amber to cast a mystical spell. Alaskans, like their indigenous bears, sleep longer in the winter.         Alaska (1,593,438 sq km) is one-fifth the size of the United States. It has more coastline than the lower contiguous 48 states and more lakes and rivers than any state. Rugged and majestic, Alaska offers the most varied scenery--towering mountains, narrow fjords, far-reaching tundra, volcanoes and glaciers, thick forests and desolate islands, extremes that one must experience to believe. It’s divided into five regions: Far North (in Arctic Circle), Interior (heartland), Southwest (Kodiak Archipelago, Aleutian Islands and Bristol Bay), and the two most visited regions, South Central (glaciers, marshes, lakes and streams) and Inside Passage (water highways and forests).           The Inside Passage has two major cities, Ketchikan— southernmost cruise ship port of call and salmon and timber town, and Juneau, capital and gateway to Glacier Bay National Park.  Aged glaciers shaped the Inside Passage into a scattering of fjords and islands. It’s located within the 7-million-hectare Tongass National Forest (a rainforest), largest in the U.S. The Tongass provides wilderness activities, and supports the fishing, tourism and timber industries. Native Indian tribes, especially the Haida, excel at carving totem poles from the wood. The craft is practiced at Saxman Native Village (near Ketchikan) where artists create totems, canoes, paddles and masks.  Lee Wallace, a Haida master carver, says, "Our traditional poles trace family histories. Each face represents a characteristic, event or some power in nature. Totems are popular artwork and I have customers everywhere."          Additionally, Tongass music-grade wood is the most valuable timber harvested. Europeans primarily import if to make piano soundboards and fine string instruments. When listening to the musical refrains from a piano or the sounds of a bow instrument, think of Alaska.          In the early 1900's, Alaska's timber industry flourished. Lumberjacks wielded axes, climbed trees to chop the tops and rolled logs along the rivers. In the summertime, loggers competed against rival logging camps. An energetic event recalls those historic skills--The Ketchikan Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. It’s fun and informative.               The fjords connect Alaska’s land, water and ice in a fenestrated laciness that seems strangely fragile and sturdy. Ferries and floatplanes (skiplanes in winter) are the lifelines between wilderness and civilization throughout Alaska. Light aircraft especially carry travelers to remote and otherwise inaccessible areas. There are only 4,093 miles of certified centerline roads in Alaska (comparison, Texas is one-fourth Alaska’s size and has 300,539) so boats and planes are essential.           Helicopters are handy too. I traveled by helicopter to Misty Fjords National Monument Wilderness and a remote interior lake to see wildlife. We spotted a mother bear and her cub and landed to watch them fish. Baby bear waited impatiently nearby while mother bear demonstrated the techniques. She was disciplined and successful. Shortly before take-off, a male grizzly (another name for brown bears) appeared and the other two grabbed their fish and scooted for the forest. Bears move quickly for their size.      My salmon was easier to acquire at Ketchikan’s Cape Fox Lodge. Chef Tim Frank prepared it exactly as I requested—pan grilled in butter. It was perfect. Other menu items were good too, but not for those on diets. There’s nothing dainty about Alaskan food. It is hearty and full-flavored and I relished each bite. Devils on Horseback, for example, were small and tender scallops wrapped in crisp bacon pieces and served with an appealing Hollandaise. Another favorite starter was Baked Brie and Crab Spread, served with tart Granny Smith apple slices and warm sourdough bread. Chef Frank said he cut a round of Brie in squares and melted it in cream before adding the crabmeat and seasonings. Maritime Bake was a mixture of scallops, shrimp and crabmeat baked in a creamy Havarti dill sauce. The Alaska King Crab Legs, served in the shell, were sweet, tender and luscious with lots of clarified butter. Bumbleberry pie—a sugar-sprinkled, nicely browned crust filled with apples, berries and rhubarb—made a delicious finish.             "I’ve always enjoyed cooking and fishing, so I came to Alaska to do what I love best," Chef smiles. "A good meal is one of life’s peak moments and you just can’t skimp on flavor. Butter and cream carry the flavor and Alaska fish are perfect."             Alaska is synonymous with perhaps the best fishing in the world. The Inside Passage entices saltwater fisherman to hook a halibut, cod, rockfish or five species of salmon. The historic George Inlet Lodge, 12 miles from Ketchikan on George Inlet, is known for beautiful scenery and fishing.         For years lodge owner Carstens Jasper had eyed the 1940s building (previously a bunk-and-mess house for cannery workers), longing to own it. Finally he and his wife, Patricia Shanghnessy, bought the historic place, converted by previous owners into a fishing lodge, and became innkeepers. They added their own touches; such as, remodeling the ten bedrooms, kitchen, and dining room and adding a new floating dock and boat ramp.            "One of our biggest remodeling changes was on the second floor, "Shaughnessy says. "It used to have common shower rooms, but we put in private baths."             Fishermen are single-minded sportsmen, concerned only about fish, not about lodging, dining or clothes. The small rooms suit their purposes just fine; however, the triumphant food is a surprise bonus. I enjoyed the delectable Halibut Cheeks, finely breaded with buttery crumbs and baked to a succulent moistness. The Stuffed Pork Chop, filled with cake-like homemade cornbread stuffing, was tastily topped with a perky mushroom sauce. Salmon was prepared blackened or lavishly topped with a roasted red bell pepper sauce. I chose the latter and was most happy with my choice.            "I had never cooked for a crowd," Shaughnessy says, "but I learned in this kitchen. I’d read cookbooks, mix and stir, and then read some more. Things have gone well."               They continue to go well. The plates are large and filled to the rim with smoky meats or fish and vegetables. The good food, company and conversation ended a lovely evening, and if that wasn’t enough, a 10-year-old boy caught a 110-pound halibut,  further exciting the guests. All felt challenged for the next day’s catch.             Wild, fresh Alaskan seafood is addictive, especially salmon. I was curious to learn more about it and visited Silver Lining processing plant and the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery —two interesting and informative Juneau places.   Biologist Ladd Macaulay wanted to build a non-profit, private hatchery to enhance Alaskan salmon. His opportunity came in 1974, says Kelly Stevens, tourism manager at the hatchery.             "In 1974, salmon runs reached a record low," Stevens says. "Legislation passed allowing non-profit hatcheries to ‘partner’ with the state to enhance salmon resources establishing a loan fund in 1975. A commercial troller gave Macaulay $500 and told him to ‘get this thing moving.’ Macaulay began in his back yard on Kowee Creek, incubating salmon eggs on the back porch. Unfortunately, no salmon returned to Kowee Creek. Volunteers used a beach seine to catch salmon and egg-take for fertilization. By 1979, however, approximately 30,000 pink salmon returned to the hatchery on Kowee Creek—a stream without salmon the previous seven years."              In 1987, the Juneau hatchery, named for Macaulay in 2000, was under construction and completed in 1989. Salmon always migrate to their place of birth to spawn and die thereafter. Through an underwater viewing window, visitors can watch hundreds of fish swimming up the man-made fish ladder to lay and fertilize their eggs. The $7 million hatchery, one of the few world-class hatcheries of its kind, is a major producer of salmon. The visitor’s center includes year-round exhibits, a saltwater aquarium, displays explaining the salmon life cycle and hatchery operations. Fortunately for fishermen and diners everywhere, the hatchery releases have helped to augment the wild salmon population.           A visit to Ketchikan’s Silver Lining Seafoods plant was enlightening too. Constantly hosed down, the odor-free plant was spotless. Fishing vessels bring fresh-caught product to the dock. It is delivered to the conveyer belt, separated by species, graded, weighed, iced and stored until it’s processed (usually within two hours). Then the fish are cleaned, left whole or filleted, blast frozen and later smoked and canned. The retail shop ships seafood around the world.               In addition to enjoying fish, visitors to Alaska are fascinated by glaciers. Juneau, gateway to Glacier Bay National Park, has an impressive glacier of its own, Mendenhall, and only minutes from downtown. These behemoth ice forms seem alive. They flow from ice fields high in the mountains where heavy snowfall accumulates over the years. Compressed and under pressure, the ice has the ability to flow, thus becoming a glacier.             Mendenhall flows down the valley, moving forward at approximately 1.3 meters per day. It wastes away, however, at a faster rate of speed through melting and breakage. When a portion of a glacier breaks off, it is called calving and makes thunderous rumbling, resounding noises.           Perhaps the most intense glacial feature is its ice blue color. The crystalline structure of ice absorbs or reflects light and all colors of the spectrum are absorbed except blue, which is reflected. It is an incredible blue.            The community of Gustavus, located on a plain created by Glacier Bay’s receding glaciers, is the receiving town for travelers. Bear Track Inn and Gustavus Inn are two welcoming and comfortable destinations with great hospitality that also serve excellent food family style.            Gustavus Inn owners David and JoAnna Lesh bought the inn from his sister. She bought it from their pioneering parents who came to Alaska in 1952. David makes the best sourdough rolls ever, and delicious pancakes served with his jams and sauces (garden grown rhubarb and berries). The rest of his cooking is equally laudatory. Dinner one evening included big Dungeness crabs in the shell served with melted butter and David’s tomato-based dips and sauces. The Pacific Cod Parmesan, Rice with Fresh Chives, Steamed Swiss and Rhubarb Chard, and a Mixed Green Salad had all fresh vegetables from their garden. David likes to cook and the guests are pleased that he does.               "We added on to the place in the 1980s. It’s for guests who enjoy being with other people. Folks like our food and we’re full service—book everything. Now former guests’ children are bringing their children. I don’t need to do a lot of marketing.  We operate by word of mouth and have a lot of repeat guests," he smiles. "We were in Gourmet in 1968."                 Bear Track Inn owners Jane and John Olney and son Mike opened their facility five years ago. Their intention is to consider any request possible.     "We arrange whale watching, saltwater or fresh water fishing trips, kayaking, cruises and everything else for our guests," Mike says, "but occasionally they want something not on the list. Guests who wanted something different instituted two activities: individual whale-watching tours rather than with a group, and flying into a remote area to fish."                Bear Track Inn is a big, attractive building of log construction. John, a retired engineer, commissioned a contractor to build and ship it to the Glacier Bay location in sections. There are no roads to Gustavus, so everything comes by barge or plane.  Building was easier and more reasonable where quantities of materials were available.         "Our year-round population is about 300," John says. "There’s no bank, no mechanic, no police or beauty shop. Everything is shipped. Electricity is 55 cents a kilowatt hour. Dry items on the barge cost 6 to 18 cents a pound—but the barge comes only once a month. Food is 30 cents a pound over its cost, but you have to fly food in every few days to have it fresh."            The food at Bear Track Inn shows their care. A couple of soups pleasantly accommodated the cool evenings—Corn Chowder with fresh corn, and Cream of Mushroom, a rich, earthy mixture with a warming texture. Pan Seared Sesame Crusted Halibut with Lemon Ginger Buerre Blanc gave a tasty, rich accent to the firm but delicate local favorite. Grilled Caribou with a Burgundy Reduction was dense and tender with pleasant gaminess. Caribou is grown on an open-range farm; seafood is caught daily.               As the world’s largest protected marine sanctuary, Glacier Bay has some of the best wildlife sightseeing. Particularly popular are the humpback whales that migrate to the area annually. Cruise boats like the Spirit of Adventure, a 150-passenger catamaran, take tourists out for a full day. The park guide on board said our experience was unusually fruitful. For example, we watched a handsomely racked moose swim between islands, reach shore, and finally walk off into the forest.         "I’ve conducted tours for two years and I’ve never seen a swimming moose," the guide sighed, "This is awesome!"                It was only the beginning. A congregation of mocha-brown sea lions covered an enormous boulder off Marble Island. The raucous, guttural barking of two males—stretching their long necks with heads erect as they slapped their chests against each other--resounded across the water. Further along, on separate islands, five different brown bears and one black bear were sighted. They searched the beaches for mussels and other creatures to eat, tossing aside huge granite rocks with one flip of a bow-legged paw. At another turn, a large collection of otters, many with pups resting on their stomachs, drifted by the catamaran staring directly at us, seemingly as curious about people as we were about otters.             On approaching Margerie Glacier, several humpback whales swam near the boat. Visitors watched their spouting blowholes shoot moisture streams into the air before acrobatic leaps brought them out of the water with tails arched for a dive.  Humpbacks achieve a length of 13 to 16m and weigh up to 30 tons. A chorus of gasps at the exciting water dance reverberated over the deck.  In another coup, Margerie Glacier put on a calving exhibition, treating the tourists to no less than six thunderous incidents of ice breaking off and crashing. The little ice-blue bergs were stunning.               Every place in Alaska has something fascinating to offer. Anchorage, the largest city, is especially blessed with fine museums, good restaurants, wildlife areas, and the nearby Alyeska Resort. Alyeska, the only AAA-rated, four-diamond property in Alaska, is well known for winter sports and excellent dining. The tram ride up the mountain to Seven Glacier Restaurant was proclaimed in Conde Nast Traveler as "the best view of any ski resort." The ride is lovely, but the food deserves praise equally. It is the most sophisticated food in Alaska. Talented Chef Jason Marcoux prepared a degustation that showed the range of his skills well.  Appetizers included his signature dish—the Peppered Dungeness Crab Cakes, Sweet Corn Puree, Lime-Jalapeno Aioli, Cilantro. The succulent crab cakes were nicely textured with the crabmeat dominating (no crumb fillers). Two sauces, sweet and sour, contrasted flavors as well as adding color interest. Day-boat fresh, Alaskan seafood is used exclusively at Seven Glaciers.               The Cajun Spiced Blackened Scallops with Smoked Ham Butter Sauce was presented distinctively on a crisp bed of frisée with scallions and the plump, moist scallops atop. The zesty warmth accented nicely without overwhelming heat. I enjoyed the creative Curry Spiced Fritter, Pear Brandy Infused Smoked Pork, Julienne Vegetables and Wild Berry Coulis. Lightly battered and spicily different, the dish left me wishing I could finish it despite what was yet to come. I enjoyed salmon as often as possible and did again with Chef’s Cold Smoked & Grilled Alaskan Salmon with Spicy Green Chile Dumplings and Cilantro Citrus Sauce. Beautifully plated, the salmon was excellent and the dumplings so imaginative I could happily have had another platter. The Mesquite Grilled Strip Loin of Venison was served on fresh, wilted spinach and dressed with a shallot-bourbon sauce decoratively placed around a grilled balsamic portobello and pesto-roasted Yukon potatoes. It was a stunning presentation. The delicious and moist Pan Seared Fresh Alaskan Halibut was served on green-onion linguini with a sun-dried tomato citrus beurre blanc. Each dish was as attractive as the previous one and just as delicious, including the Asian Style Crispy Muscovy Duck Breast. Tender and juicy, it was served with snow peas and decoratively topped with sesame cellophane noodles. Dining at Seven Glaciers was indeed a delectable evening.             In the city of Anchorage (Seven Glaciers is in Girdwood) don’t miss dining at the Ristorante Orso. The food is delicious at this attractive, rustic Italian downtown restaurant. Service is friendly and efficient and the tables are well appointed.  Altogether, it is a pleasant experience.   For appetizers I began with the Antipasto Orso, a traditional selection of assorted cured meats, grilled vegetables, olives, artichoke hearts, baby tomatoes and smoked provolone cheese—a very respectable offering. Following, I had the crisp, semolina-crusted calamari, which was served with lemon slices and sundried tomato aioli. The decorative platter heaped the calamari generously and it was very fulfilling. I understand why the most popular appetizer is the Fried Ravioli. It was my favorite too. The ample cheese stuffed raviolis, with marinara, pesto, peccorini and parmesan cheeses and olive oil, were scrumptious. The smooth melted cheese stuffing enveloped by firm raviolis wrapped in a crunchy crust was a tasty contrast of textures. The basil and tomato sauces enhanced the taste profile.                  For main courses, I had salmon and halibut. Salmon preparations change daily. Mine had herbs and lemon slices stuffed under the skin, adding a nice bite to the fish. Likewise, the fresher than fresh Roasted Halibut was accompanied by a lovely shallot butter sauce, red onions, leeks, tomatoes and flavorful local potatoes, all topped with tissue-thin pieces of fried kale.  It was rewarding to eat. Wine lists at these restaurants offer a nice array of predominantly California wines. One can dine very well in Anchorage and Girdwood, and, outside of Anchorage, in a most unlikely remote and rustic setting.               Alaska’s sobriquet is "The Last Frontier." It can actually be lived at three wilderness lodges. The palpable truth of Alaska’s pioneering spirit resides conspicuously in a couple, Kirsten and Carl Dixon. They are remarkable. I didn’t know people like the Dixons really existed. Their intriguing story tells of unique qualities—quintessential Alaskans, as tradition holds, full of adventure and true grit, sturdy, steadfast, capable, self-reliant, hard working, and equal to the task.   They met at a medical center where Carl worked as an audiologist and Kirsten was a nurse. They married a year later, and Carl left the medical profession to fulfill his desire to start a river-rafting company. Another year went by and their daughter Carly was born. Carl continued exploring Alaska’s rivers and backcountry to find property to expand his wilderness trips.  Kirsten continued nursing.          "I worked nights in the hospital intensive care unit while Carl traveled extensively," Kirsten says. "Carly spent her days and sometimes nights with people we hardly knew. We began to look for some way to change our lives. Carl discovered a place on a river called Lake Creek. He bought it in July and we moved there in September."         About 70 miles from Anchorage, Lake Creek flows into the Yentna River near Riversong Lodge, the Dixon’s first endeavor. Floatplanes and small, flat-bottomed boats are the mode of transportation as there are no roads. When Carl found the property, there was an abandoned one-room cabin on it.         "Before we moved, I had never seen Lake Creek, or much of Alaska outside of Anchorage," Kirsten smiles. "With one child and another soon to be born, little money, no experience in wilderness living and no knowledge about the business of running a lodge, we set out to start our new life."           The Dixons had to build the lodge and Kirsten had to learn professional cooking. She read magazines and cookbooks and practiced, beginning by helping Carl baking cookies and bread for his river trips. After a time she embraced the idea of being the lodge cook.               Meanwhile, Carl searched the forest for suitable building timber; that is, dead trees still standing so as not to deplete the natural environment. He chopped down each tree and skinned off the bark to smooth it into logs. Other logs he planed to make floor or wall boards. This method is how Carl built Riversong Lodge—later on, Winterlake Lodge and Redoubt Bay Lodge. Just as Kirsten was not a professional chef, Carl was not a carpenter or plumber or electrician. They are now.              The Dixon’s three wilderness retreats have guests from around the world. Travel and Leisure Magazine named Riversong Lodge one of 25 Best Lodges in America. The two men on the floatplane with me (a 45-minute flight from Anchorage) were from Japan and Florida—both visiting Riversong Lodge for the day to fish. Guests come to the Dixon’s lodges for experiences and adventure, but they also come for Kirsten’s cooking. She has received innumerable awards over the years, including cooking at the James Beard House in New York. She recently moved her cooking school to Winterlake’s larger kitchen and Carl is now adding on a bigger dining room.       When Carl isn’t building, fishing, rafting, dogsledding, canoeing, hiking and exploring wildlife with guests, he takes care of his dog sled team. Winterlake Lodge is stop four for the Iditarod March race.              Iditarod is the dogsled event that commemorates the 1925 race to deliver diphtheria serum during an outbreak. Held annually, amid unpredictable weather, in deep snow and ice, with many sleepless hours and other challenges, the drivers and dog teams must complete a grueling 1850 km course. Known as "the last great race," it is a test of stamina, skills and concentration that pits mushers and dog teams against some of the harshest conditions on the continent.          "Kirsten welcomes and feeds all the mushers and volunteers," Carl says. "We couldn’t do it without their help. They fly in the vets and straw for the dogs’ beds—you can start with up to 16 dogs and must end with at least five. We had 69 mushers last year—10 from foreign countries. Our three cabins always have guests, so we put everyone else anywhere we can in the main lodge and outbuildings—on the floor, in chairs, on tables, under tables—it’s fairly cozy."              I met Carl’s dogs and their energy is volcanic. I offered to walk one and once the leash was in my hand I was being dragged off in a run to try to keep up. They have an incredible drive to pull and run.            Winterlake is open year-round and Carl offers cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and dog mushing tours. Kirsten teaches cooking classes in the winter.            "I like simple preparations and fresh ingredients," Kirsten explains. "I had a root cellar, but a bear broke into it, even after Carl built a formidable spiked wall in front of the door. We’ll try again next year."           Kirsten prepared a penne pasta with pine nuts, mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and basil, freshly diced apples and dried cranberries. The fruits added color and a wonderful dimension of flavor and textures as well. She placed lightly browned, sautéed chicken breasts on top the penne and it made a most complete and delicious lunch. And cookies, for dessert—there are always cookies at Kirsten’s table.               Dinner featured beef tenderloins on spinach, Alaska red potatoes—sliced and roasted face down, carrots with garden oregano, and a fresh green salad. Kirsten pan-seared the meat, rubbed it with olive oil and salt and pepper and finished it in the oven, served it topped with portobello mushrooms and roasted purple onions. The spinach was sautéed quickly in grapeseed and sesame oil.               "I soak salad greens in cold water to hydrate them—plump up their cells," she says. "Then I put them in baggies, press the air out for freshness and store them in the refrigerator. I’m tossing them with grapeseed and walnut oil by hand and in small portions so they’re evenly covered. I use a sharp acid vinegar like cider. I always salt and pepper greens. I like to use different salts from different locations. Sometimes it’s a basic sea salt but for puff pastry I use Fleur de Sel. Tonight I’m adding honeyed, buttered walnuts and buttermilk blue cheese."                  The dinner was very satisfying and delicious. The Dixons are good company. I took some cookies to munch on the way to my cabin—and of course my can of pepper spray in case I ran into a bear.                The morning began with our farewell breakfast of scrambled eggs with shredded basil and cheese on a toasted bagel, venison sausage, muffins, and fresh fruit compote. It was a fulfilling way to begin the day I was to leave Alaska. Sadly, I had to part their good company as well.  Kirsten and Carl walked me down to the floatplane. We hugged and I patted the dogs and told all to take care.  As the floatplane lifted, I kept waving until the pilot was well over the surrounding marshes inhabited by moose. There they were. The large lumbering males ambled along the grassy wetland—solitary and unbothered, without a human anywhere in sight. What a rare experience.              No one should part from this planet without having visited Alaska. Life would be incomplete.

ADDRESSES: PLACES , EVENTS, and ACTIVITIES

KETCHIKAN—INSIDE PASSAGE:  Ketchikan Visitors Bureau, 131 Front Street, Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-6166, FAX (907) 225-4250, www.visit-ketchikan.com  

WestCoast Cape Fox Lodge, 800 Venetia Way, Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-8001, FAX (907) 225-9286 www.westcoasthotels.com   Comfortable lodging and hearty and delicious dining.

George Inlet Lodge, Carstens Jasper and Patricia Shaughnessy, owners; 11728 South Tongass Hwy., Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-6077). FAX (907) 225-0801, info@georgeinletlodge.com  www.georgeinetlodge.com   Excellent saltwater fishing, simple lodging, delicious food and good company of owners, who also process, pack, and transport the fish that guests catch; for example, fresh steaks or fillets vacuum packed and quick frozen, smoked or canned, to take or ship.

Saxman Native Village, P.O. Box 8558-KVB, Ketchikan, AK 99901, TEL (907) 225-846, ext. 310  www.capefoxtours.com  Carvers preserve their ancestors’ craft and can be seen sculpting totem poles, canoes, paddles and masks.

The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, P.O. Box 23343, Ketchikan, AK 99901  TEL (888) 320-9049  FAX (907) 247-9050  www.lumberjackshow.com   info@lumberjacksports.com  Fun and informative viewing of lumberjacks’ historic skills, gift shop

JUNEAU--INSIDE PASSAGE, and gateway to Glacier Bay National Park:

Juneau Convention & Visitors Bureau, 369 S Franklin Street, Suite 203, Juneau, AK 99801, TEL (907) 586-1737, Fax (907) 586-1449 www.traveljuneau.com  

Macaulay Salmon Hatchery and Visitors Center, 2697 Channel Drive, Juneau, AK 99801, TEL (907) 463-4810, FAX (907) 463-5614 www.alaska.net/~dipac     See hatchery operations and returning salmon traveling up the water ladder to spawn, learn about salmon from guide, see the salt water aquariums and exhibits, shop—an interesting and unique visit.

GUSTAVUS (no road access)—INSIDE PASSAGE, depart from Juneau:

Goldbelt Tour Center, 76 Egan Dr., Juneau, AK 99801, 800/820-2628, TEL (907) 586-8687   www.goldbelttours.com    Goldbelt makes reservations to Glacier Bay by ferry or air taxi.  

Gustavus Inn, JoAnn and David Lesh, P.O. Box 60, Gustavus, AK 99826, TEL (907) 697-2254 FAX (907) 697-2255    David Lesh’s family-owned inn since 1952. His sourdough rolls are best ever, delicious pancakes and homemade jams (garden grown rhubarb and berries) and the rest of his cooking is equally laudatory. 

Bear Track Inn, Jane, John and Mike Olney, proprietors; 255 Rink Creek Road, Gustavus, AK 99820, TEL (907) 697-3017  FAX (907) 697-2284 Beartrac@aol.com    www.BearTrackInn.com    Attractive and hospitable inn with delicious food.

Alaska Travel Industry Association, Official Alaska State Travel Guide, Dept. 102 P.O. Box 196710, Anchorage, Alaska 99519-6710 www.travelalaska.com   For any information on Alaska

ANCHORAGE--SOUTHCENTRAL

Anchorage Convention & Visitors Bureau, 524 W. Fourth Street, Anchorage, AK 99501, TEL (907) 274-3531  FAX (907) 278-5559 www.anchorage.net  

Alyeska Prince Hotel and Resort, Seven Glaciers Restaurant—most sophisticated dining in Alaska; excellent cuisine, 1000 Arlberg Road, P.O.Box 249, Girdwood, AK 99587 (907) 754-1111 FAX (907) 754-2290 www.alyeskaresort.com    State’s largest ski area, indoor swimming pool, conference center, only AAA four diamond hotel in Alaska, has unique "Northern Lights" wake-up service to view aurora borealis

Risotrante Orso, 5th Avenue and G Street, Anchorage, AK (907) 222-3232  Attractive Italian décor and delicious food, all around pleasant dining experience

Kirsten and Carl Dixon, owners Within The Wild Alaskan Adventure Lodges; Riversong Lodge (best stream fishing) and Winterlake Lodge (Iditarod stop #4) and Redoubt Lodge (wildlife haven); contact: 2463 Cottonwood Street, Anchorage, AK 99508  TEL (907) 274-2710  FAX (907) 277-6256  www.withinthewild.com   alaskawild@gci.net   The quintessential Alaskan experience with delicious food and warm hospitality

RUST’S Flying Service, Fishing Alaska by Seaplane--Alaska’s Most Experienced Seaplane Service, established 1963; Southshore of Lake Hood, Anchorage International Airport, P.O. Box 190325, Anchorage, AK 99519 (907) 243-1595,  800/544-2299  FAX (907) 248-0552  www.flyrusts.com